Washington, D.C
Nine highlights of Washington DC most visitors miss
There is a smorgasboard of eating spots along District Wharf.
Two waterfront precincts – District Wharf (commonly known as The Wharf) and Navy Yard – have sprung up in the past six years, both with bars, restaurants and modern apartments. Stroll along District Wharf and make your choice from a smorgasbord of eating spots. My favourites? The casual Cuban-themed cafe, Colada Shop and Del Mar, an upmarket Spanish and seafood restaurant. Then check the packed schedule of The Anthem, where the likes of Foo Fighters and Bob Dylan have hit the stage. Further east, and occupying a recently refurbished shipbuilding and munitions port, is the slightly clinical grid of streets known as Navy Yard. It’s worth heading here for Albi, a Michelin-starred, Mediterranean-themed restaurant. Or down a few beers at Bluejacket Brewery after a baseball game at the Nationals Park stadium nearby.
Dupont Circle
The neighbourhood is crammed with colourful row houses.Credit: iStock
Dupont Circle is both a busy roundabout pinned by an attractive beaux-arts fountain, and a neighbourhood crammed with historic row houses. Of a Sunday, push your way past the dogs and strollers at Dupont Circle’s Farmers Market and join the queues for delicious, if pricey, fresh produce and a friendly chat with a stranger. Casual food spots dot the Circle’s boulevards. Climb a half-flight of wrought iron stairs to access Chiko that serves a blend of Chinese and Korean cuisine, and tuck into an “orange-ish chicken”, an elevated rendition of a sweet-sour takeaway favourite. For excellent third-wave coffee, join the digital nomads in Emissary, in the basement of a lovely Queen Anne-style mansion.
14th Street
‘Sneak’ into the bar of Chicken + Whiskey through a fridge door.
Gentrification occurred in 14th Street faster than the president’s motorcade that sometimes races through DC without warning. In two short decades, the strip between Logan Circle and just beyond U Street morphed from a seedy hotbed of car dealerships and “adult services” to DC’s liveliest social magnet. These days, a diverse crowd gathers in its overhauled spaces: LGBTQIA+ flags fly proudly in windows and smart, modern restaurants and sophisticated drinking dens are common. Faux speakeasy bars with quirky entrances are a trend: “sneak” into the bar of Chicken + Whiskey through a refrigerator door at the rear of the chicken joint. A cross-section of DC’s population gathers at Busboys and Poets for brunch, lunch or dinner. As a bonus, poets might be performing in its adjoining cultural space.
Adams Morgan
Adams Morgan is a nocturnal destination with a youthful vibe.Credit: iStock
Warts and all are on display along this densely-packed section of 18th Street in Adams Morgan where tattoo parlours abut grungy take-out joints and empanada hole-in-the walls stand adjacent to upmarket bars. This largely nocturnal destination attracts a youthful bunch, who down cheap pints in basement dives, and compare various herb-infused concoctions in chic rooftop bars. Walk the strip and make your choice. If you’re after cocktails with creative Middle Eastern flavours, plus reggae music, popular haunt The Green Zone has you covered.
U Street And Shaw
Ben’s Chili Bowl is a landmark on U Street.
The centre of Black cultural and intellectual life since the 1860s, U Street became known as Black Broadway, such was its entertainment scene; the likes of Ella Fitzgerald and Duke Ellington cut their jazz teeth here. It took decades to rebound after its destruction during the 1968 riots following the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr. Music lovers should check out what’s on at the 9:30 Club, a long-standing music venue.
For cuisine, Ben’s Chili Bowl is a famous landmark, but don’t expect gourmet fare; former president Obama was known to enjoy its chili half smoke (similar to, though not, a hot dog). Nearby, the hip, yet edgy neighbourhood of Shaw is the cool kids’ domain. A good place to start is Blagden Alley, popular among Instagrammers for its colourful street art. Start at La Colombe (great coffee), have a breather at Lost & Found (a fun bar) or plan for dinner at Tiger Fork (fabulous Asian).
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NoMa and Union Market district
The revamped NoMa district (named in the 1990s for “north of Massachusetts”) is a favourite for young professionals. Within NoMa is the popular Union Market, a restored, mid-century food hall where Australian Fiona Lewis runs The District Fishwife and prepares some of the freshest fish tacos around. The surrounding blocks that comprise former converted warehouses are worth poking around: pick up some stylish South American made handicrafts from La Cosecha; reserve dinner at St Anselm, a faux-old-school American tavern; and see the wee hours in at Last Call, an action-packed “cocktail dive bar” (meaning, it serves fancy drinks at good prices in a no-frills, converted cafeteria).
Georgetown
A street mural in leafy Georgetown.
Incorporated into the city of Washington in 1871, Georgetown, DC’s leafiest and chicest district, draws both a youthful crowd (it’s home to an eponymous university) and elderly residents. Start with M Street and Wisconsin Avenue, two shopping strips that drip with flower baskets. Then meander through the pretty, green streets to Tudor Place, the mansion of George Washington’s grand-daughter, Martha. Other famous residents include former First Lady Jackie Kennedy (JFK proposed to her at Martin’s Tavern). At Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, DC’s historic canal, you can sit over a coffee and cupcake from the backstreet gem, Baked & Wired. For local souvenirs? Made in DC sells stylish pieces true to its name.
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Happy hours in DC
George Washington distilled whisky. His successor, John Adams, swilled hard cider for breakfast. And sneaky distilling went on here during prohibition. After the Prohibition Act ended in 1933, DC’s own jazz artist Duke Ellington wrote the hit Cocktails for Two. The cocktail and drinking tradition continues, especially during advertised happy hours when everything from speakeasies to dive bars, hotel rooftops to craft breweries, offer decent reduced-price deals.
See washington.org; si.edu
Beyond the Monuments in Washington, DC: An insider’s guide to what to eat, drink and explore by Kate Armstrong is published by Hardie Grant, $34.99.
Washington, D.C
Talking with Ohioans at the Great American State Fair
WASHINGTON, D.C. — Ohioans are among the visitors traveling to the nation’s capital this week for the Great American State Fair, part of the country’s 250th birthday celebration.
On Wednesday, visitors trickled into the Ohio state pavilion booth, which includes a map of Ohio’s most iconic places and an exhibit on several children’s initiatives championed by Gov. Mike DeWine, First Lady Fran DeWine and Lt. Gov. Jim Tressel.
“I wanted to come here, we wanted to see the sights here. We figured once in a lifetime,” said Carolyn Golamb of Fremont, who was visiting Washington, D.C. with her husband, Mark.
The fair has been a source of controversy after multiple musicians scheduled to perform at a kickoff concert withdrew, citing political concerns.
The event was organized by Freedom 250, a White House-backed group that has been accused of usurping the government’s official America250 commission, created by Congress 10 years ago for the same purpose. In addition, many elements of the fair have pushed a partisan message, such as President Donald Trump’s campaign-style rally on June 25 and events like “MAHA Mondays.”
Amid the controversy, attendance at the fair has been sparse.
Rep. Dave Taylor, R-Ohio, attributed the light turnout not to politics, but to forecasts of triple-digit heat this week.
“The weather is going to hold numbers down a little bit,” he said. “There’s a lot of walking to go from one place to another here, and people are here visiting with little kids. I think you’re going to see the numbers pick up as we get closer to Saturday for sure.”
Several visitors from Ohio said they did not notice any partisanship at the fair.
“That is the reason why I’m here, is because all of us have made a big positive contribution to what makes America great. And it’s not just one group or one party or anything. It’s all of us together,” said Toledo native Cassandra Newsome.
“It’s the 250th anniversary. No matter who was in power at the time, I still would be here,” said Mark Golamb.
The fair runs June 25 to July 10 on the National Mall.
Washington, D.C
Looking for indoor July 4 plans in DC? Try these America250 exhibits
The U.S. celebrates 250 years since signing the Declaration of Independence July 4. D.C. will be packed with America250 events and celebrations.
This summer many of D.C.’s top museums are showing new exhibits that explore American history. There’s an activity for everyone to enjoy this summer, from a new view of the Lincoln Memorial to new exhibits at the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum.
Most Smithsonian museums are open daily, including on July 4, from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Photo by Smithsonian Institution
Air and Space Museum
The Air and Space Museum is nearing the end of the multi-year renovations that began in 2018 just in time for America 250. On July 1 the museum unveils five new exhibits:
If you’re interested in learning more about the history behind space technology and how the U.S. has used air and space tech in the past, you should check out RTX Living in the Space Age Hall and the Jay I. Kislak World War II In The Air exhibits.
If interactive exhibits are more your speed, the TEXTRON How Things Fly exhibit will feature nearly 50 interactive works. The Flight and the Arts Center is a great choice for art and space lovers alike, and the U.S National Science Foundation Discovering Our Universe explores the tools that move what we know on space forward.
Admission is free, but you must get a timed ticket.
Smithsonian Castle: American Aspirations Exhibition
Although “the pursuit of happiness” is among the most well-known cornerstones of the Declaration of Independence, this exhibit at the Smithsonian Castle challenges viewers to consider the other ideals America aspires to, including liberty, new horizons, fairness, democracy and hope. Through a collection of some of America’s most notable objects, from Harriet Tubman’s Hymnal to Thomas Edison’s lightbulb, the exhibit explores how America has sought to live up to its ideals through its history.
This exhibit will be open through Sept. 7 before the castle again closes for renovations. Admission is free.
Lincoln Memorial Undercroft

Images courtesy of the National Park Service
What better way to celebrate America 250 than to explore the hidden foundations of one of its most iconic monuments? The Lincoln Memorial’s undercroft opened June 25, featuring 15,000 sq feet of structural framework and exhibits that trace the history of President Lincoln and the memorial. Viewers can learn about the construction of the building, its place in American history and its impact in the civil rights movement as they walk through the caverns of concrete columns.
It’s free to visit, but every visitor age 2 and up needs a timed-entry ticket. You can reserve tickets in advance on recreation.gov or by calling 877‑444‑6777. Note, there’s a $1 service fee for every reservation. You can also pick up same-day tickets on the National Mall.
The Undercroft exhibit will be closed on July 4, but open the rest of the holiday weekend.
Arts and Industries Building: Voices and Votes
The Arts and Industries Building houses an exhibit based off an exhibition currently on display at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History. This new exhibit explores American democracy and asks visitors to engage in deeper questions about what democracy in America means. It includes photos, videos, items and interactive displays. Admission is free.
MLK Library: District Vibes/American Pride: How DC Changed American Culture
If you’re looking for a D.C. twist to America 250, look no further than D.C. Public Libraries! With art, artifacts and programming throughout the summer, the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial Library will show how D.C. and American history are intertwined. Admission is free.
Other DCPL libraries will offer events on this theme and other America 250 events, too.
D.C. libraries will be closed on July 3 and 4.
Building Museum: THE PLAYGROUND

Daybreaker FUN HOUSE at the National Building Museum (Joy Asico/Asico Photo)
The National Building Museum’s historic Great Hall will see a fun-filled transformation this summer as they collaborate with New York-based design firm, Snarkitecture, for the third time. This collab will transform the Great Hall into an interactive playground. The playground aims to show America’s story through relationships and memories made by community.
“The Playground” brings outdoor activities indoors, giving museumgoers the rare opportunity to be a part of the art. The exhibit will open July 3 and run through Aug. 30. The events schedule includes evening hours for adults to enjoy, and special activities for kids.
To visit The Playground, book museum admission between 10:30 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. Tickets cost $15.95-$18.95 (infants under 2 can visit for free).
National Gallery of Art: Dear America
The National Gallery of Art’s latest exhibit is a love letter to America, exploring what it means to be an American through 100 different works. The multimedia exhibit features drawings, photographs and prints in which artists asked, “What does it mean to be American?” It includes works by Roy Lichtenstein, Carrie Mae Weems and Tonita Peña. Admission is free, and the museum is set to be open on July 4.
National Museum of Women in the Arts: Celebrate Women Artists Throughout America 250
The National Museum of Women in the Arts is celebrating women who shaped American history and art.
Exhibits include “Ms. Americana,” which features 10 paintings from American women artists. They also will feature an exhibit on Pueblo pottery from the North American Southwest called “Burnished: Pueblo Pottery at NMWA” and another on quilts in the Second Great Migration called “Routed West: Twentieth Century African American Quilts in California.”
Tickets are $16 for adults or $13 for D.C. residents and those 65+. People under 21, visitors with disabilities and SNAP/EBY holders can go for free. There are also free community days, including on Sunday, July 5. Make sure to book those tickets in advance.
From These Lands: Sharing Our Natural and Cultural Heritage
This summer, the National Museum of Natural History unveils its new exhibit focused on connections between people, places and the natural world. The exhibit will feature items from all 50 states, D.C. and the five inhabited U.S. territories. This exhibit opens on June 18, but patrons can visit until 2029. Admission is free.
American History Museum: In Pursuit
The National Museum of American History is displaying a new exhibit, highlighting 250 items spanning from the 1700s to the present day that reflect the ideals of the Declaration of Independence. The exhibit is on all three floors of the museum with pieces that aim to highlight how Americans have pursued the promise signed in 1776. The exhibit will last until the end of the year. Admission is free.
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Washington, D.C
DC releases draft plans for community surrounding new Commanders stadium
D.C. released draft plans for the community surrounding a new Washington Commanders stadium at the former site of RFK Stadium.
Renderings included with the draft plan show the idea is to have a community with open spaces, parks, retail and housing. Walkability and access to the Anacostia River were essential for many who weighed in.
“We’ve been working throughout the development of this master plan with WMATA and the District Department of Transportation, and in this project, as all projects, having lots of ways for people to get to one place is really important, whether on foot, on bike, you’re in a vehicle, you’re taking transit, you’re taking Metrorail or the bus – all of those are provided for,” Office of Planning Director Anita Cozart said. “So, the big part of the master plan is making sure that there is space for those.”
The master plan includes space for a grocery store and as many as 6,500 new houses with 30% of those houses dedicated as affordable.
The community will develop around the stadium after it’s built, Cozart said.
The plan includes the visions and desires of thousands of people and agencies who weighed in on it, but it’s not final. The public is invited to inspect the plan and comment until Aug. 14.
“What did we get right about this master plan; what are some things that we might need to tweak,” Cozart said. “The next step after that is the master plan goes to the City Council.”
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