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Vermont is world famous for its fall foliage colors, aka “Mother Nature’s Fireworks Show,” and justifiably so. There are some other great places to see fall foliage, but no place outside northern New England that has the perfect mix of all the features needed to make it the very best: leaves in every available shade and variety of color change, from yellow to gold to orange to red to purple, with just the right amount of evergreens needed for contrast and the sharp elevation changes that create visual relief and a sense of depth. Add in the quintessential white steepled churches, red covered bridges, quaint town greens and pastoral farms and you have quite the tourist experience – one that people annually travel thousands of miles to see.
But what is far less well known as a reason to travel to Vermont is golf, and the state does not have any Top 100 courses or former Major venues, or even a PGA, LPGA or Champions Tour stop (not even LIV). So, I understand why Vermont flies under the radar of travel golfers, but it should not. There are several standout resorts with notable golf courses, and this can be combined in summertime with all the things that make visiting Vermont great, including the craft beer and artisan cheese scenes, both among the very best on earth. But the golf courses are at their peak in fall, and there are few places better to see the foliage show from, as most are surrounded by colorful pristine mountainsides, and you don’t have to battle the foliage auto traffic. To get this added bonus on top of a sport you already love is an extra special treat.
As someone who lives in Vermont but golfs all over the world, I have to note that this has been a very difficult year, with climate change bringing extreme and catastrophic rain events, one after another, that have resulted in destructive flooding across the state, so bad that it made headlines all around the world, and caused me to get emails and texts from people as far away as Tokyo asking if everything was okay. For many in the state, things are not okay, but what exacerbates the actual damage caused by the storms is travelers cancelling or postponing trips due to incorrect perceptions about what they are going to find when they arrive. This just further hurts the local economy and residents.
What travelers will find right now, and going through the end of summer and peak fall foliage season, is that the top Vermont golf resorts are open for business as usual, and in some cases, are better than ever.
I have recently been checking this out in person and am happy to report that the resorts I would normally recommend most anyway are all in good shape. The alternating unusually hot weather and tremendous rains have made things difficult in many regards, but it has been an exceptional summer for growing grass, and the fairways and greens are in the best shape I’ve seen in years. Some courses were badly damaged, and there is a private club near me with two eighteens, one of which is now closed for the rest of the year, while the other has nine holes closed. That’s a big loss, and other courses got damaged as well, but the state’s top three destination golf resorts escaped the brunt of it.
Skiing is the backbone of Vermont’s outdoor recreation economy, and not surprisingly, most of the major ski resorts have golf courses. Unfortunately, ski resort golf courses are often subpar, built across slopes that would never have been chosen as sites had not the resorts needed summer business, with quirky off kilter holes. I’ve played just about all of the top ski resort golf courses, and the best – by a big margin – is the one at Jay Peak. It is not on the mountain itself, and while it has notable elevation changes, they are from tee to green not left to right, and the design, by acclaimed Canadian architect Graham Cooke, is a real deal golf course that would be a fun and solid choice anywhere. There are four sets of tees, it stretches all the way to 6908-yards, and plays longer, keeping it challenging for even the very best golfers. It also has no real estate, and there are only two holes where you see buildings, and no holes where you see other holes. This gives it a much more wilderness, set in nature aesthetic, but also a bit of a private club feel, because no matter how busy it gets you feel a sense of having a private course to yourself. There are also some great views of the ski trails and the resort’s iconic tram – the only one in Vermont – which runs for sightseeing in the summer.
The Jay Peak golf facility also offers a full range of instruction and clinics, plus custom clubfitting with a Master Club Fitter and builder on staff.
Many consider Jay Peak the state’s best ski resort, and it certainly gets by far the most snow, in part because it’s located further north, close to the Canadian border. It takes a little more effort to get here, but that’s much easier in summer and fall, when you don’t have to worry about snow tires. The resort is self-contained with a lot to offer, including the largest – again by far – indoor waterpark in Vermont, a huge hit with kids and an addition that makes it a great choice for golf trips with the family. There’s a full NHL sized indoor hockey rink, another amenity you won’t find at other ski resorts. Ther are three hotels, two of them within steps of the golf shop, plus cottages and condos. There are several restaurants, from casual family fare to gourmet, the tram runs in the summer, and there is an ongoing slate of concerts and events. All of this is centrally located, and it would be possible to have great weekend stay here without ever getting in your car.
Given the quality of the course, the prices are almost too-good-to-be-true, with “rack rate” 18-hole greens fees $69 on weekdays and $89 on weekends, with discounts for early and twilight play – like $69 with cart for 18 on weekend mornings before 8AM, tee times that are the most desirable at many other places. I’ve paid two to three times as much for courses that are not nearly as good. But there are even steeper discounts if you book a stay and play golf package – remember that summer and even fall foliage is off-season at a ski resort with nearly a thousand beds to fill.
Jay Peak is not just the best of Vermont’s ski resort golf courses, I’d say it’s the best of the golf resort courses period, but there are a couple of other great options to consider or to combine into a road trip.
The Woodstock Inn & Resort has an unbeatable location smack in the middle of one of the state’s premier tourist towns, Woodstock. That puts it steps from galleries, bars, restaurants, shops and the state’s only National Park unit, Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Park. It is very much a full-service resort, with a large sports and fitness club including tennis and croquet, a large spa, multiple restaurants and even its own alpine ski resort a few miles away, which has an extensive mountain biking park in summer. There is also an extensive network of free mountain biking and hiking trails in the woods immediately next to and above the golf course, another great amenity for Inn guests.
The Woodstock Inn has the oldest public golf course in Vermont, opened as a 9-holer in 1896. It was then moved to its current location where a new course was built in 1906. It was redesigned and rebuilt as eighteen in 1923, and then in 1961, resort owner Laurance Rockefeller brought in the leading designer of the era, Robert Trent Jones, Sr. to do yet another remake, the current layout. The Inn was part of Rockefeller’s RockResorts brand, and he used Jones Sr., for his courses, including Hawaii’s Mauna Kea and Puerto Rico’s Dorado Beach. Rockefeller had personal ties to the town, so when he sold the other RockResorts, he put the Woodstock Inn in a non-profit trust, which continues to run it to this day, a unique lodging situation. Prior to this season, the course got a mini-renovation, with some tree removal and the reinstallation of long vanished bunkers on the 4th and 6th holes, bringing the course back to the way Jones intended it to be played. It has excellent fall foliage viewing, with no homes or buildings, and is surrounded by the lush Kedron Valley with views of Mount Peg, a town park with even more hiking trails.
As a result of the renovations, the Woodstock Inn golf course is better than ever. It’s a full eighteen but its flattish site and compact size, with no real estate and short green to tee distances associated with the pre-golf cart era, make it a great walking course (they do have carts), which is a fantastic way to take in the foliage.
The state’s other standout would be the Equinox Resort in Manchester, in the southwest corner of the state near the New York and Massachusetts borders. The Equinox is a grand hotel that was once owned by Guinness Brewing and was made into the sister resort to Scotland’s famed Gleneagles, also owned by the beer company at the time. This is how some of the unusual amenities like an off-road driving school and falconry ended up here. Manchester is also home to Orvis, the world-famous sporting goods and fly-fishing company, and America’s oldest mail order retailer. The Orvis flagship store near the Equinox is a must-visit, but it also adds extensive fly-fishing schools and outings as recreational options. This is another lovely full-service resort with multiple restaurants, bars and a full spa, and Manchester is a wonderful village to visit, with many good eateries and the best shopping in the state.
The Equinox golf course is a 1927 classic by famed designer Walter Travis (Sea Island, Westchester Country Club, Garden City) that was renovated by “U.S. Open Doctor” Rees Jones. I’d put it as the second-best resort course in the state after Jay, and the surrounding mountains make it an exceptional spot for fall foliage viewing. It is also very affordable, from $89, and being located in the southernmost part of the state, typically has one of the longest playing seasons in Vermont.
Any of these three golf resorts would make for a fabulous weekend road trip, but as they sit in three very different parts the small state, the southwest, center and northeast, this makes it fun to link them into a multi-town trip. I’ve stayed at all three resorts, and they are all charming. Jay is closest to Vermont’s largest airport, Burlington International, served by carriers including Delta and United, just over an hour away.
Last month, the University of Vermont Health Network announced a slate of wide-ranging cuts to its Vermont facilities.
Those cuts — which drew a swift and furious outcry — included closing an inpatient psychiatric unit at Central Vermont Medical Center, ending kidney transplants at the University of Vermont Medical Center, and shuttering a primary care clinic in Waitsfield.
Across Lake Champlain, however, the situation looks very different. Over the past few years, UVM Health Network’s facilities in northern New York have added capacity and increased the volume of certain procedures.
Over the past two years, Champlain Valley Physicians Hospital, in Plattsburgh, has worked to increase the number of surgeries it performs, according to Annie Mackin, a network spokesperson. During that time, Elizabethtown Community Hospital’s Ticonderoga campus has expanded clinics in women’s health and dermatology. Late in 2023, a primary care clinic operated by another health care organization opened at Alice Hyde Medical Center, in Malone. And earlier this year, Alice Hyde hired a general surgeon, the network announced in October.
The network hopes to add even more capacity in the state in the coming years, leaders say.
“In New York, we’re doing our very best to expand services, to grow opportunities, to be able to have more opportunities to see patients over there,” Steven Leffler, president and chief operating officer of UVM Medical Center, said in an interview last month.
“We’re hoping they’ll have more inpatient access to cover patients who can’t stay here,” Leffler said, referring to the Burlington hospital. “We’re hoping we can move more surgical cases there as a way to make sure that access is maintained for people who may have, unfortunately, more (of a) challenge getting access here.”
Leaders of the six-hospital network said the additions in New York are simply part of ongoing efforts to help patients access more care more easily — similar to what the network seeks to do in Vermont.
The University of Vermont Medical Center, Central Vermont Medical Center and Porter Medical Center, in Middlebury, are all part of the UVM Health Network.
The recent cuts on this side of the lake, administrators say, were due solely to the actions of the Green Mountain Care Board, a state regulator that capped network hospital budgets and ordered UVM Medical Center to reduce its charges to private health insurers earlier this year.
Additions at New York hospitals, which are not under the board’s jurisdiction, have nothing to do with the board’s orders and often predate them, network leaders said.
That work “is totally independent and unrelated to regulatory action here,” Sunny Eappen, the president and CEO of UVM Health Network, said in an interview.
Expanding services in New York, however, does benefit Vermont’s hospitals. In the 2023 fiscal year, New York residents contributed roughly 14% of the University of Vermont Medical Center’s patient revenue, to the tune of $245 million, according to financial documents submitted to the Green Mountain Care Board.
In Vermont, the care board places limits on how much hospitals can bring in from patient care — limits that UVM Health Network officials have said are onerous and harmful. By adding capacity in New York, the network can keep some of those patients in their communities and out of Vermont hospitals.
Owen Foster, the chair of the Green Mountain Care Board, declined to comment, saying he did not know the details of the network’s New York hospital services.
In 2025, Champlain Valley Physicians Hospital plans to add operating room capacity for general surgery, urology, ear nose and throat procedures and orthopedics, according to Mackin, the network spokesperson. The network has invested in some “anesthesiology resources” for that expansion and is recruiting urology and orthopedics clinicians, she said.
The network has also informed about 370 New York patients that they have the option of getting imaging procedures — such as x-rays — in-state, rather than in Vermont, Mackin said. UVM Health Network is also “evaluating opportunities” to add gastroenterology, cardiology and infusion procedures in New York, she said.
“It’s patient-focused and patient-centered, right?” Lisa Mark, the chief medical officer of Champlain Valley Physicians Hospital and Alice Hyde Medical Center, said in an interview. “So they don’t have to travel across the lake if they don’t need to.”
Over the past few months, UVM Health Network has drawn scrutiny for the movement of money between its Vermont and New York hospitals.
That attention was sparked by the revelation, during the Green Mountain Care Board’s annual hospital budget review process, that Burlington’s UVM Medical Center was owed $60 million by Champlain Valley Physicians Hospital in Plattsburgh.
That has led to fears that Vermonters are subsidizing New York medical facilities. In comments submitted to the Green Mountain Care Board in August, Vermont’s chief health care advocate Mike Fisher and his staff members charged that the network “has consistently weakened its financial position by choosing to transfer monies to the New York hospitals.”
Network leaders have repeatedly denied that those transfers — which have paid for pharmaceuticals, physicians’ salaries and other expenses — had any impact on Vermonters. Those transfers affect a hospital’s cash on hand, leaders said, but do not affect margins or Vermonters’ commercial insurance rates.
“We’ve been very, very clear on that,” Rick Vincent, the network’s executive vice president and chief financial officer, said in an interview. “The Vermont commercial rates are not impacted by those New York hospitals.”
Last month, the care board asked the network for more information about the New York hospitals’ finances, including their operating margins and cash on hand.
UVM Health Network initially declined to provide that information. But Eappen said in an interview he does intend to share the hospitals’ financial information with the board.
According to publicly available nonprofit tax forms, some of the network’s New York hospitals have struggled in the past years. Champlain Valley Physicians Hospital lost nearly $30 million in its 2022 fiscal year and nearly $40 million in the 2023 fiscal year, according to tax records, and Alice Hyde Medical Center lost about $20 million in those two years, as well. Elizabethtown Community Hospital, meanwhile, has reported positive margins for the past decade.
Eappen said that Champlain Valley and Alice Hyde have grown more stable in the past year, although financial data is not yet publicly available.
There are “not yet” plans to shift more services to New York as a result of the Green Mountain Care Board’s orders, Eappen said. But keeping care close to home for residents of northern New York is a win-win, he said.
“If New Yorkers stay in New York, it doesn’t contribute to that Vermont revenue piece,” Eappen said, referring to patient revenue, which is capped by the Green Mountain Care Board. “And so if we do it well and keep New Yorkers in New York, it’s a positive on both ends.”
“They were not just happy to be there,” said Dalen Cuff, who called Vermont’s 2-1 overtime victory over Marshall on ESPN2 last Monday night. “They felt like a team on a mission and they were. Their mind-set was, ‘We will be forgotten if we don’t win the whole thing.’ I think they were just very salient in the fact that if we win the whole thing, then we hit legendary status. And they were right.”
So when the Catamounts achieved what might have been a stunning outcome to just about everyone outside of their own locker room, prevailing on Max Kissel’s golden goal in the 95th minute, Cuff’s exceptional call included acknowledging the Catamounts’ own we’ve-got-this, no-glass-slipper-necessary mentality.
“Oh my gosh! They do it!” exclaimed Cuff as Kissel’s goal rolled toward the net. “Don’t call them Cinderella! You can call them national champs!”
Vermont’s victory and how it occurred made the Catamounts an instant social media sensation, and the buzz carried through much of the week. On Tuesday, the match drove conversation on such shows as ESPN’s “Around The Horn,” where host Tony Reali declared it the best sporting event of the year.
I told Cuff – whom locals may remember from his time at Comcast SportsNet New England nearly a decade ago — that watching the end of the championship match reminded me of what it felt like when Doug Flutie’s Hail Mary found Gerard Phelan to lift Boston College over Miami in November 1984.
“It’s funny you mention the Flutie thing,” said Cuff, who has called four NCAA men’s soccer finals for ESPN. “When I grew up, I had the VHS tape, ‘Great Sports Moments of the ‘80s.’ One of them was the Flutie play, with the radio call: ‘He did it! He did it! Flutie did it’!
“I never thought I’d be the voice of any type of unforgettable moment, especially since I started my career as an analyst.
“I’ve heard people like Al Michaels or Mike Tirico or Joe Buck talk about when you’re calling something that has a chance to be an incredible moment, or when you’re calling a championship, ‘Do you think about it in advance? Do you rehearse?’ The weird thing is, I don’t think you can in soccer, where one moment that can define the game can happen at any time.”
Cuff said he just instinctively went with what was already on his mind.
“And what was on my mind was that they found it practically offensive to be called Cinderella,” he said. “Their point of view was, ‘We’ve won more games than anybody in this tournament the last few years. We know we’re a small school from America East, but we’re not Cinderella.’
“So we mentioned that during the broadcast a couple of times, and so in the moment I communicated that they’ll never be considered Cinderella again. Just call them champs.”
Cuff acknowledged that he didn’t quite grasp how much the championship match and Vermont’s team was resonating with sports fans until the next day.
“I walked out of there in kind of a stupor,” he said. “Not that they won, but more like, ‘I can’t believe that happened.’ The way it went down. I was kind of dumbfounded for a couple of hours, and I don’t think I understood the response and how many people watched and appreciated what they’d seen. I realized Tuesday with all of the talk about the game and people texting me how much people gravitated toward this.”
The championship aired on ESPN2 in the spot in which the “ManningCast” would normally be on as the alternate broadcast of “Monday Night Football.” But there was no show last Monday.
“Shout out to the Manning brothers for taking the week off,” said Cuff with a laugh. “Thank you for that. I’m sure some people tuned in thinking the ‘ManningCast’ was on, stuck around, and got this unbelievable game.
“I do think where it’s on television matters. It was on ESPN2 for the first time since I’ve been calling it. I think random people stumbled across the game. I recognized that part instantly. When you walk into a bar, ESPN is likely on TV. ESPNU is not likely to be on. So the platform made a difference.”
…
Jim Donaldson, an important member of an outstanding Providence Journal sports section for nearly four decades, died Thursday morning at age 73. Donaldson never smoothed the edges of his opinions as a writer, particularly when it came to the Patriots, and was a friendly companion in the press box. I enjoyed his wry sense of humor as a frequent weekend host on WEEI back in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. Even after his retirement in 2016, he remained an engaging — and opinionated, of course — presence on social media. I’ll miss hearing from him . . . Expect the Red Sox to announce their broadcast booths for both NESN and WEEI at Fenway Fest — an even kinder, gentler version of Winter Weekend, apparently on Saturday, Jan. 11. Dave O’Brien (NESN) and Will Flemming (WEEI) will remain in their play-by-play roles, but some other specifics are still being worked out.
Chad Finn can be reached at chad.finn@globe.com. Follow him @GlobeChadFinn.
Media
The University of Vermont men’s soccer team — excuse me, make that the national champion University of Vermont men’s soccer team — was undeniably an underdog along its now-storied journey.
The Catamounts were ranked No. 17 and unseeded entering the NCAA Tournament. Even as an exceptional America East program, they don’t have the resources to match the big programs from the Big Ten and Atlantic Coast Conference.
Underdog? Accurate assessment. Just don’t tell the Catamounts themselves that they were a Cinderella story, as if their success required some sort of fairy-tale caliber intervention. For one thing, Cinderella doesn’t wear flannel, as the Vermont players were prone to do when they took the field for warm-ups. For another, they were certain they could beat anyone, even while the final chapters of its extraordinary and ultimately fulfilled quest were still being written.
“They were not just happy to be there,” said Dalen Cuff, who called Vermont’s 2-1 overtime victory over Marshall on ESPN2 last Monday night. “They felt like a team on a mission and they were. Their mind-set was, ‘We will be forgotten if we don’t win the whole thing.’ I think they were just very salient in the fact that if we win the whole thing, then we hit legendary status. And they were right.”
So when the Catamounts achieved what might have been a stunning outcome to just about everyone outside of their own locker room, prevailing on Max Kissel’s golden goal in the 95th minute, Cuff’s exceptional call included acknowledging the Catamounts’ own we’ve-got-this, no-glass-slipper-necessary mentality.
“Oh my gosh! They do it!” exclaimed Cuff as Kissel’s goal rolled toward the net. “Don’t call them Cinderella! You can call them national champs!”
Vermont’s victory and how it occurred made the Catamounts an instant social media sensation, and the buzz carried through much of the week. On Tuesday, the match drove conversation on such shows as ESPN’s “Around The Horn,” where host Tony Reali declared it the best sporting event of the year.
I told Cuff – whom locals may remember from his time at Comcast SportsNet New England nearly a decade ago — that watching the end of the championship match reminded me of what it felt like when Doug Flutie’s Hail Mary found Gerard Phelan to lift Boston College over Miami in November 1984.
“It’s funny you mention the Flutie thing,” said Cuff, who has called four NCAA men’s soccer finals for ESPN. “When I grew up, I had the VHS tape, ‘Great Sports Moments of the ‘80s.’ One of them was the Flutie play, with the radio call: ‘He did it! He did it! Flutie did it’!
“I never thought I’d be the voice of any type of unforgettable moment, especially since I started my career as an analyst.
“I’ve heard people like Al Michaels or Mike Tirico or Joe Buck talk about when you’re calling something that has a chance to be an incredible moment, or when you’re calling a championship, ‘Do you think about it in advance? Do you rehearse?’ The weird thing is, I don’t think you can in soccer, where one moment that can define the game can happen at any time.”
Cuff said he just instinctively went with what was already on his mind.
“And what was on my mind was that they found it practically offensive to be called Cinderella,” he said. “Their point of view was, ‘We’ve won more games than anybody in this tournament the last few years. We know we’re a small school from America East, but we’re not Cinderella.’
“So we mentioned that during the broadcast a couple of times, and so in the moment I communicated that they’ll never be considered Cinderella again. Just call them champs.”
Cuff acknowledged that he didn’t quite grasp how much the championship match and Vermont’s team was resonating with sports fans until the next day.
“I walked out of there in kind of a stupor,” he said. “Not that they won, but more like, ‘I can’t believe that happened.’ The way it went down. I was kind of dumbfounded for a couple of hours, and I don’t think I understood the response and how many people watched and appreciated what they’d seen. I realized Tuesday with all of the talk about the game and people texting me how much people gravitated toward this.”
The championship aired on ESPN2 in the spot in which the “ManningCast” would normally be on as the alternate broadcast of “Monday Night Football.” But there was no show last Monday.
“Shout out to the Manning brothers for taking the week off,” said Cuff with a laugh. “Thank you for that. I’m sure some people tuned in thinking the ‘ManningCast’ was on, stuck around, and got this unbelievable game.
“I do think where it’s on television matters. It was on ESPN2 for the first time since I’ve been calling it. I think random people stumbled across the game. I recognized that part instantly. When you walk into a bar, ESPN is likely on TV. ESPNU is not likely to be on. So the platform made a difference.”
…
Jim Donaldson, an important member of an outstanding Providence Journal sports section for nearly four decades, died Thursday morning at age 73. Donaldson never smoothed the edges of his opinions as a writer, particularly when it came to the Patriots, and was a friendly companion in the press box. I enjoyed his wry sense of humor as a frequent weekend host on WEEI back in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. Even after his retirement in 2016, he remained an engaging — and opinionated, of course — presence on social media. I’ll miss hearing from him . . . Expect the Red Sox to announce their broadcast booths for both NESN and WEEI at Fenway Fest — an even kinder, gentler version of Winter Weekend, apparently on Saturday, Jan. 11. Dave O’Brien (NESN) and Will Flemming (WEEI) will remain in their play-by-play roles, but some other specifics are still being worked out.
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