Vermont
The James Beard effect: Restaurant awards come with lots of excitement, some challenges
The owners of the Randolph restaurant Saap traveled to Chicago in the spring of 2022 to attend the James Beard Awards. The Northern Thai eatery’s chef, Nisachon “Rung” Morgan, was nominated for Best Chef: Northeast by the annual awards honoring the American hospitality industry.
Morgan won. By the time she and her husband, Steve Morgan, returned to central Vermont, their business and their lives had changed.
“We came back from Chicago,” according to Steve Morgan, “and there were 67 messages on my phone.” Most of those messages were for reservations in the 60-seat dining room. Revenue at Saap soared 300% after the restaurant won the award.
The Morgans were and remain ecstatic to have won. But soon after winning, what might qualify as good problems started to settle in.
Saap had to turn away potential customers “right and left,” Morgan said, as diners were suddenly drawn in droves to their prize-winning restaurant. Sometimes, he said, Saap had to stop accepting takeout orders because the dining room was full and the small staff was stretched thin. Morgan said that on a couple of occasions, Saap made the mistake of overbooking the dining room, making customers wait longer than they should have.
“There’s obviously cons to everything,” according to Matthew Peterson, owner of May Day, a restaurant in the Old North End of Burlington whose chef, Avery Buck, is nominated this year in the Best Chef: Northeast category. The restaurant finds out April 2 if it and other Vermont semifinalists advance to the finals, with overall winners announced June 16.
May Day’s previous chef, Mojo Hancy-Davis, was a semifinalist for Best Chef: Northeast two years ago. Despite recognizing there are cons to everything, Peterson sees almost nothing but positives in being a nominee in the most prestigious hospitality award competition in the country.
“Two separate chefs (nominations) in three years feels more like a holistic representation of what we’re doing here,” Peterson said.
The James Beard ‘bump’
Peterson admits he didn’t take full advantage of Hancy-Davis’ nomination in 2023. May Day closed temporarily for previously planned renovations three days after the nod was announced. Any James Beard “bump,” as Peterson called it, passed May Day by.
“I didn’t necessarily know how to leverage that as an owner,” he said.
Months after that nomination, Hancy-Davis bought the Henry Street Deli in Burlington and left to run that business.
“It took the wind out of my sails a little bit,” Peterson said. Soon, though, he soon landed Buck, with whom he had worked at Hen of the Wood, which has restaurants in Burlington and Waterbury and has been nominated for multiple James Beard prizes over the years.
The wind is back in Peterson’s sails now that Buck, like Hancy-Davis, is a James Beard nominee. “It feels very validating to have another chef get that,” he said.
Peterson feels he’s better at leveraging the honor to benefit May Day. After learning of Buck’s nomination, he reached out to Hello Burlington, a website that highlights the city’s restaurants and events. The night a video about May Day went live on that website, Peterson said customers came into his homey North Winooski Avenue eatery saying they had just seen the video.
“There has been a bump for sure,” according to Peterson, who said the nomination that mentions Buck by name is about more than one person. “It just feels like a whole team working together.”
‘A monumental moment’
Christian Kruse felt the bump when he was a semifinalist for Best Chef: Northeast in 2022, the same year Morgan at Saap won. At the time, he was chef at Black Flannel Brewing & Distilling in Essex.
“It certainly was a monumental moment to me,” said Kruse, who left Black Flannel to work at The Big Spruce and Hatchet Tavern in Richmond, which have since closed. “It’s certainly something that I’ve worked hard to try to achieve. It is the Oscars of the hospitality industry. Any chef/owner/whatever that’s been working hard in their field and doing their craft, I think it’s something they want to achieve.”
Kruse is seeking investors to help fund his own restaurant in The Big Spruce location.
“It’s an accolade that really opens the door to have conversations with people,” he said.
An invitation from Kamala Harris
Kruse, Peterson and Morgan all mentioned the same relatively minor negative aspect of being a James Beard Award nominee. It isn’t so much about the impact it has on the restaurant as the impact on the customer.
“People come in with a different expectation once you’ve won a James Beard Award,” according to Morgan. He said some customers think of the awards as honoring only elegant dining rooms with linen on the tables, or French- or Italian-trained chefs unlike his wife who’s cooking elevated versions of Thai food from her homeland.
Once those customers taste the food at Saap, Morgan said, their response is usually something like “Oh, I get it now.” He noted that the year Saap won was when the James Beard Foundation started recognizing more diverse cuisine than it had before; customers had not yet adjusted to that new way of thinking about the nominations.
“The (James Beard) Foundation is broadening the scope of what good food looks like,” according to Peterson of May Day.
Kruse heard comments from Black Flannel customers about a brewpub not being what they expected for such a prestigious nomination. He noted that one of this year’s nominees, Canteen Creemee – which dispenses ice cream and fried chicken from a takeout space in a Waitsfield shopping plaza – isn’t known for impeccable service but for its creative, innovative offerings.
Peterson said his restaurant that aims for “fun, approachable food” has had “self-proclaimed foodies” come in expecting the elegance they might find in Boston or New York.
“We get a lot of that,” Peterson said of “self-proclaimed foodies.” That just encourages him and his staff to rise to the occasion.
“I like high expectations,” Peterson said, especially when the crew at May Day delivers what the customer wants.
A James Beard nomination does set a restaurant up for closer scrutiny, according to Morgan. “It kind of puts a bullseye on your back,” he said.
But the award also set Saap up for opportunities it might not have otherwise had. Just before President Biden left office in January, Morgan said Saap was invited to an Asian-heritage celebration at the home of then-Vice President Kamala Harris in Washington, D.C. Restaurants representing the cuisine of 25 countries served small plates that night, and Morgan said Saap likely would not have been included had it not won a James Beard Award three years ago.
“It’s been quite the crazy ride,” he said.
And the nominees are…
This year’s Vermont semifinalists for the James Beard Award (finalists to be announced April 2):
- Outstanding Restaurateurs: Cara Chigazola-Tobin and Allison Gibson, Honey Road and The Grey Jay, Burlington
- Outstanding Bar: Wolf Tree, White River Junction
- Best Chef, Northeast: Avery Buck, May Day, Burlington; Charlie Menard, Canteen Creemee, Waitsfield
www.jamesbeard.org
Contact Brent Hallenbeck at bhallenbeck@freepressmedia.com.
Vermont
Vermont high school football’s Week 8 results, scores, stats
Week 8 of the 2025 Vermont high school football season has arrived. There are 15 games on tap between Thursday, Oct. 23 and Saturday, Oct. 25.
For final scores, stats and details, see below for updates throughout the weekend. This file will be updated multiple times throughout Oct. 23-25.
TO REPORT SCORES
Coaches or team representatives are asked to report results ASAP after games by emailing sports@burlingtonfreepress.com. Please submit with a name/contact number.
THURSDAY, OCT. 23
Fair Haven 20, Mount Anthony 0
FH: Cody Adams (98 yards passing, 1 TD). Sam Kyhill (76 rushing yards, TD rush, TD catch). Jon Hutchins (40 rushing yards, 1 TD). Anthony Szabo (48 rushing yards and fumble recovery on defense).
MA: Carson Predel (10 carries, 33 yards). Rowan Behan (INT on defense).
Note: Fair Haven scored 12-points in the second quarter to take a 12-0 halftime lead. On the opening kickoff of the second half, Mount Anthony fumbled and the Slaters cashed in, scoring a touchdown two plays later.
FRIDAY, OCT. 24
Games at 7 p.m. unless noted
Mount Mansfield at BFA-St. Albans
Middlebury at Burlington/South Burlington
Springfield at Milton, 6:30 p.m.
U-32 at Spaulding
North Country at Brattleboro
Essex at Rutland
Colchester at Hartford
Bellows Falls at Woodstock
Champlain Valley at Burr and Burton
Watch VT high school football on NFHS Network
SATURDAY, OCT. 25
Games at 1 p.m. unless noted
Lyndon at St. Johnsbury, 5 p.m.
Otter Valley at Rice
Windsor at BFA-Fairfax/Lamoille
Mill River at Missisquoi
Mount Abraham/Vergennes at Poultney
Contact Alex Abrami at aabrami@freepressmedia.com. Follow him on X, formerly known as Twitter: @aabrami5.
Contact Judith Altneu at jaltneu@gannett.com. Follow her on X, formerly known as Twitter: @Judith_Altneu.
Vermont
Vermont bus journey: Pushing public transit to limits – Valley News
Kellen Appleton is a regular rider on the Advance Transit buses that run in and around her hometown of Lebanon. But recently, Appleton got to thinking: How far could local buses, like the ones she relies on in the Upper Valley, really take her?
Earlier this month, she set out with her housemate, Ana Chambers, to put the question to the test — at least, within the confines of Vermont. The duo rode what they think was the longest-possible trip across the state, within a single day, using only public buses.
The journey, which Appleton documented on Instagram, started just below Vermont’s southwestern corner in Williamstown, Mass. Eleven hours and seven different buses later, they made it to St. Johnsbury, Vt., in the heart of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom.
The goal? To “kind of push the public transit system to its limits,” said Appleton, who works for a regional planning commission based in Weathersfield, in an interview.
There are certainly more convenient ways to get across the state, even using transit. Amtrak runs two trains through Vermont that ultimately connect to New York City, for example, while Greyhound buses traverse the state between Boston and Montreal.
But Appleton said she and Chambers wanted to make their trip as challenging as possible by relying only on public transit that, unlike Amtrak or Greyhound, could not be booked ahead of time. They also wanted to use routes that ran on fixed schedules, which ruled out using microtransit services that can be called on demand.
In all, they paid just a single, $2 fare the entire day — “a bargain, right?” she said.
Appleton and Chambers’ trip started with a 7:15 a.m. ride on The Green Mountain Express’ Purple Line from Williamstown, Mass., north across the state line to Bennington, Vt. From there, they caught a Green Mountain Express Orange Line bus to Manchester, Vt., and then a ride on The Bus, run by the Marble Valley Regional Transit District, into Rutland.
From Rutland, they took a Tri-Valley Transit bus to Middlebury, Vt., then another bus from that same operator to Burlington. From there, they rode a Green Mountain Transit Montpelier LINK Express bus to the capital. Finally, from Montpelier, they took Rural Community Transportation’s U.S. 2 Commuter to St. Johnsbury, stepping off for the last time at 6:30 p.m.
Appleton said she was pleasantly surprised by how it was possible to make so many different bus connections throughout the state. It was a testament to the local transit agencies, she said, that each bus ran close enough to its listed schedule that she and Chambers could actually stick with the route they’d carefully planned ahead of time.
She noted, though, that some of the agencies’ schedules aligned for a transfer only once a day — or left just minutes to spare — meaning a single substantial delay could have scuttled the plan. That’s hard to complain about for a trip, like theirs, that was fairly impractical by design, she said. But she added that the “fragile” nature of parts of the itinerary underscored how difficult it can be for many people to rely on public transit for their needs.
Having more regularly scheduled bus service, especially serving rural communities, could encourage more intercity trips without a car, Appleton said.
Vermont spends more money on public transit than other similarly rural states, according to a 2021 report, though state lawmakers continue to debate whether to increase that funding in an effort to help the state make progress toward its climate goals.
Frequent transit service is “something that’s going to help a lot of people take that leap from, ‘I need to have a car to be independent and be a functional person as a part of society,’ to, ‘I can rely on the systems that we’ve put in place here,’” she said.
At the same time, she noted every bus she and Chambers took had at least one other person on board. While many transit routes are scheduled around commuters traveling only in the morning or the evening, she said, the trip was a reminder that there are people who likely don’t have cars, using those services at all times of day.
She documented some of the day’s more memorable characters in an Instagram post. That included a man in Bennington, clad in a rainbow bomber jacket and white stone earrings, who was accompanying his young daughter — herself in a fur coat — on the bus to school. Two friends realized onboard, excitedly, that they were taking the bus to the same destination: a methadone clinic that opened in Bennington earlier this year. Three other riders from the Bennington area, all in high school, spent the ride discussing “the fall of communism,” Appleton recalled.
In Rutland, three friends boarded the bus and, with reggae music playing from a phone, unpacked a very different topic — which version of the video game series “Grand Theft Auto” was the best. Another rider worked at a cafe in Middlebury and, upon being asked if the cafe still served ice cream in October, responded: “Hell yeah we are. Follow me.”
A “harried commuter” with a tattoo of Bernie Sanders boarded in Montpelier, Appleton recalled, traveling with an electric bicycle and “alternating sips of coffee, ginger ale, and water the entire bus ride.” The bus to Burlington, meanwhile, had a student on board who revealed the purpose of his visit to a friend just before stepping off, Appleton wrote: “I’m here to see my BOYFRIEND.”
The trip, which would take about three hours by car, also gave Appleton and Chambers a new perspective on towns they might have driven through before — but had never been able to take the time to look around, Appleton said. She said the trip was inspired, in part, by a genre of YouTube videos that feature people taking similarly impractical trips on public transportation and sharing the sights along the way.
“Now, I have some touch point, or some anecdote, or have some connection, to (each) place — and that makes me feel like I’m a little bit more at home than I would be otherwise,” she said.
“Was it practical? No. But like, was it a great time? 100%.”
This story was republished with permission from VtDigger, which offers its reporting at no cost to local news organizations through its Community News Sharing Project. To learn more, visit vtdigger.org/community-news-sharing-project.
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Vermont
St. Albans sets up tip line to track down offensive odor near dairy plant
The city of St. Albans is amplifying its efforts to track down the source of an offensive odor that’s been wafting through part of a downtown neighborhood since the beginning of the year.
City Manager Dominic Cloud said officials have launched a telephone hotline to allow city residents, and visitors, to report when they smell the strong odor, which Cloud said the city thinks is coming from the Dairy Farmers of America milk processing plant.
“We’ve tried to activate the community around the co-op who was complaining,” Cloud said during a recent interview. “I don’t want to be in a place six weeks from now where they’re saying, ‘You didn’t do enough to protect us,’ so I need their assistance in that effort.”
The St. Albans Messenger, which has been chronicling the odor saga, reported the news of the hotline last week.
According to Cloud, the offensive odor, which he said smells like sulfur and rotting animal flesh, was detected soon after the owners of the Dairy Farmers of America plant completed some work on their wastewater treatment system in January.
Since then, the city and the dairy plant have been battling over where the smell is originating.
Elodie Reed
/
Vermont Public
According to Cloud, representatives from the dairy plant have been coming to city council meetings and promising to install filters and add chemicals to its wastewater system to cut down on the smell.
“The creamery has taken several actions to ensure that odor emissions are appropriately managed,” Dairy Farms of America spokesperson Kim O’Brien said in a written statement. “Most recently we engaged a third-party consultant to perform odor monitoring. Odor monitoring at the site is ongoing, and these results will inform appropriate next steps at the creamery.”
But the smell is still strong, Cloud said, and so he is now gathering reports from the new phone tip line, and preparing for the city’s next move, which could include taking the company to court.
That’s not a step the city, which proudly identifies with its dairy farming heritage, is eager to take.
“It’s not a great space for me to have to square off against a major employer and a large section of our tax base,” Cloud said. “That’s why I resisted for six months, but I couldn’t resist any longer and we were unhappy with the pact in which they were solving it.”
Cloud said plant officials have both denied that the smell was coming from the plant while also saying they were addressing the issue.
The stench worsened during the summer, Cloud said, and as it continues into fall, the city is seriously contemplating taking stronger action.
“For more than 100 years the creamery has been an important fixture in Vermont’s dairy industry,” O’Brien wrote in her email comment. “We have made significant investments in this plant and the community. As we work to address this complex issue we appreciate constructive engagement with our neighbors and the city.”
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