Vermont
The James Beard effect: Restaurant awards come with lots of excitement, some challenges
The owners of the Randolph restaurant Saap traveled to Chicago in the spring of 2022 to attend the James Beard Awards. The Northern Thai eatery’s chef, Nisachon “Rung” Morgan, was nominated for Best Chef: Northeast by the annual awards honoring the American hospitality industry.
Morgan won. By the time she and her husband, Steve Morgan, returned to central Vermont, their business and their lives had changed.
“We came back from Chicago,” according to Steve Morgan, “and there were 67 messages on my phone.” Most of those messages were for reservations in the 60-seat dining room. Revenue at Saap soared 300% after the restaurant won the award.
The Morgans were and remain ecstatic to have won. But soon after winning, what might qualify as good problems started to settle in.
Saap had to turn away potential customers “right and left,” Morgan said, as diners were suddenly drawn in droves to their prize-winning restaurant. Sometimes, he said, Saap had to stop accepting takeout orders because the dining room was full and the small staff was stretched thin. Morgan said that on a couple of occasions, Saap made the mistake of overbooking the dining room, making customers wait longer than they should have.
“There’s obviously cons to everything,” according to Matthew Peterson, owner of May Day, a restaurant in the Old North End of Burlington whose chef, Avery Buck, is nominated this year in the Best Chef: Northeast category. The restaurant finds out April 2 if it and other Vermont semifinalists advance to the finals, with overall winners announced June 16.
May Day’s previous chef, Mojo Hancy-Davis, was a semifinalist for Best Chef: Northeast two years ago. Despite recognizing there are cons to everything, Peterson sees almost nothing but positives in being a nominee in the most prestigious hospitality award competition in the country.
“Two separate chefs (nominations) in three years feels more like a holistic representation of what we’re doing here,” Peterson said.
The James Beard ‘bump’
Peterson admits he didn’t take full advantage of Hancy-Davis’ nomination in 2023. May Day closed temporarily for previously planned renovations three days after the nod was announced. Any James Beard “bump,” as Peterson called it, passed May Day by.
“I didn’t necessarily know how to leverage that as an owner,” he said.
Months after that nomination, Hancy-Davis bought the Henry Street Deli in Burlington and left to run that business.
“It took the wind out of my sails a little bit,” Peterson said. Soon, though, he soon landed Buck, with whom he had worked at Hen of the Wood, which has restaurants in Burlington and Waterbury and has been nominated for multiple James Beard prizes over the years.
The wind is back in Peterson’s sails now that Buck, like Hancy-Davis, is a James Beard nominee. “It feels very validating to have another chef get that,” he said.
Peterson feels he’s better at leveraging the honor to benefit May Day. After learning of Buck’s nomination, he reached out to Hello Burlington, a website that highlights the city’s restaurants and events. The night a video about May Day went live on that website, Peterson said customers came into his homey North Winooski Avenue eatery saying they had just seen the video.
“There has been a bump for sure,” according to Peterson, who said the nomination that mentions Buck by name is about more than one person. “It just feels like a whole team working together.”
‘A monumental moment’
Christian Kruse felt the bump when he was a semifinalist for Best Chef: Northeast in 2022, the same year Morgan at Saap won. At the time, he was chef at Black Flannel Brewing & Distilling in Essex.
“It certainly was a monumental moment to me,” said Kruse, who left Black Flannel to work at The Big Spruce and Hatchet Tavern in Richmond, which have since closed. “It’s certainly something that I’ve worked hard to try to achieve. It is the Oscars of the hospitality industry. Any chef/owner/whatever that’s been working hard in their field and doing their craft, I think it’s something they want to achieve.”
Kruse is seeking investors to help fund his own restaurant in The Big Spruce location.
“It’s an accolade that really opens the door to have conversations with people,” he said.
An invitation from Kamala Harris
Kruse, Peterson and Morgan all mentioned the same relatively minor negative aspect of being a James Beard Award nominee. It isn’t so much about the impact it has on the restaurant as the impact on the customer.
“People come in with a different expectation once you’ve won a James Beard Award,” according to Morgan. He said some customers think of the awards as honoring only elegant dining rooms with linen on the tables, or French- or Italian-trained chefs unlike his wife who’s cooking elevated versions of Thai food from her homeland.
Once those customers taste the food at Saap, Morgan said, their response is usually something like “Oh, I get it now.” He noted that the year Saap won was when the James Beard Foundation started recognizing more diverse cuisine than it had before; customers had not yet adjusted to that new way of thinking about the nominations.
“The (James Beard) Foundation is broadening the scope of what good food looks like,” according to Peterson of May Day.
Kruse heard comments from Black Flannel customers about a brewpub not being what they expected for such a prestigious nomination. He noted that one of this year’s nominees, Canteen Creemee – which dispenses ice cream and fried chicken from a takeout space in a Waitsfield shopping plaza – isn’t known for impeccable service but for its creative, innovative offerings.
Peterson said his restaurant that aims for “fun, approachable food” has had “self-proclaimed foodies” come in expecting the elegance they might find in Boston or New York.
“We get a lot of that,” Peterson said of “self-proclaimed foodies.” That just encourages him and his staff to rise to the occasion.
“I like high expectations,” Peterson said, especially when the crew at May Day delivers what the customer wants.
A James Beard nomination does set a restaurant up for closer scrutiny, according to Morgan. “It kind of puts a bullseye on your back,” he said.
But the award also set Saap up for opportunities it might not have otherwise had. Just before President Biden left office in January, Morgan said Saap was invited to an Asian-heritage celebration at the home of then-Vice President Kamala Harris in Washington, D.C. Restaurants representing the cuisine of 25 countries served small plates that night, and Morgan said Saap likely would not have been included had it not won a James Beard Award three years ago.
“It’s been quite the crazy ride,” he said.
And the nominees are…
This year’s Vermont semifinalists for the James Beard Award (finalists to be announced April 2):
- Outstanding Restaurateurs: Cara Chigazola-Tobin and Allison Gibson, Honey Road and The Grey Jay, Burlington
- Outstanding Bar: Wolf Tree, White River Junction
- Best Chef, Northeast: Avery Buck, May Day, Burlington; Charlie Menard, Canteen Creemee, Waitsfield
www.jamesbeard.org
Contact Brent Hallenbeck at bhallenbeck@freepressmedia.com.
Vermont
Poet Joanne McNeil Hayes kicks off park poetry series
Poet Joanne McNeil Hayes is set to kick off the seventh season of the Words in the Woods program at Button Bay State Park in Ferrisburgh.
The event is scheduled for 11 a.m. June 20, according to a community announcement.
Hayes, who grew up in a Chicago suburb, wrote poems about Midwestern life before moving to southern Vermont. Her work has been published in Plum, ENOUGH, Crosswinds and Valley and Beyond.
Her current book of poetry, “I am the Prairie,” explores growing up in the shadow of the Illinois prairie and witnessing patterns of immigration from 1832 to 1900, when Vermont farmers moved to the fertile prairie of that state, according to the announcement.
Vermont Humanities is covering the park entrance fees for the event, allowing attendees to enjoy a full day at the park.
The full schedule is available at vermonthumanities.org/programs/attend/words-in-the-woods-events.
This story was created with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence (AI). Journalists were involved in every step of the information gathering, review, editing and publishing process. Learn more at cm.usatoday.com/ethical-conduct.
Vermont
Vermont Immigration Legal Defense Fund surpasses its $1 million goal year after founding – VTDigger
BURLINGTON — A year ago, the thousands of residents in Vermont seeking U.S. citizenship had just two lawyers in the state who specialized in deportation defense, leaving many to face court alone.
Today there are eight.
That’s according to the organizers of the Vermont Immigration Legal Defense Fund, who announced Monday they had topped its goal of raising $1 million in donations.
The fund has helped state legal organizations grow significantly since May 2025, State Treasurer Mike Pieciak said.
The fund was created by state officials and nonprofit leaders responding to intensified U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement operations in the state. Federal law does not require the government to provide lawyers in immigration cases because they are civil, not criminal, leaving many of the roughly two dozen people held in Vermont prisons on immigration matters without representation. The fund was designed to close that gap.
The money was raised from thousands of Vermonters and donors across more than 30 states, according to Pieciak.
“The Vermont (Immigration) Legal Defense Fund grant arrived at a critical moment for the refugee and immigrant community we serve,” said Yacouba Jacob Bogre, executive director of the Association of Africans Living in Vermont, an organization that works with new Americans, at a Monday press conference. “As many families navigate uncertainty and changing policies, your support provided more than funding — it provided hope, stability and reaffirmation that they are valued members of our government community.”
Just three months into its launch, the fund reported raising $250,000, which was crucial after federal funding cuts impacted the budgets of organizations supporting immigrants with their legal cases.
Pieciak, alongside Sen. Kesha Ram Hinsdale, D-Chittenden Southeast, helped launch the fund.
“Reaching this goal is a testament to what Vermonters can do when they refuse to look away,” Ram Hinsdale said in a Monday press release. “Just as important as the dollars raised is the plan we leave behind — one that ensures people facing detention or separation will not navigate it alone.”
The impact has been especially pronounced at the Vermont Asylum Assistance Project, a legal services organization that has served more than 300 asylum seekers since its founding in 2021. The number of clients it serves on asylum matters has doubled, from 50 to 100 since 2025, according to executive director Jill Martin Diaz, and the project has screened 130 people detained in Vermont prisons by ICE and secured nine temporary restraining orders.
“We are making incredible progress. We’re doubling our capacity to make sure that our dream is realized,” Diaz said.
Nathan Virag, a staff attorney for the Association of Africans Living in Vermont, said the fund allowed his organization to hire a legal intake coordinator and a legal intern, with hopes of adding another attorney to handle a growing caseload.
“The fund was necessary. Unfortunately, if we didn’t have those funds, we wouldn’t be able to do what we’re doing now,” Virag said.
In Vermont, 1,017 immigration cases remain pending, 45.7% of which have legal representation, up from the 42.8% recorded last summer, according to the Transactional Records Access Clearinghouse at Syracuse University, based on data collected through April.
Because the fund hit its $1 million target, its fundraising work is officially complete, Pieciak said. But the five recipient organizations plan to keep working together. Those organizations include the Vermont Asylum Assistance Project, the Association of Africans Living in Vermont, Vermont Legal Aid, Vermont Afghan Alliance, The Janet S. Munt Family Room, and the Center for Justice Reform Clinic at the Vermont Law and Graduate School.
“We’ll continue to work with these organizations as we reimagine the structure and the way in which we work together into the future,” said Jesse Bridges, CEO of United Way of Northwest Vermont, the organization that helped administer the funding. “As you say, the court room is the first step in the journey.”
Vermont
After years of stifling heat, Vermont invests nearly $10.5 million in prison air conditioning – VTDigger
After years of complaints from prison staff and incarcerated people about sweltering summer conditions, Vermont has approved its largest investment in cooling state correctional facilities in recent years.
Lawmakers agreed to spend nearly $10.5 million to install prison cooling systems, which appears to be more money than the state put toward the project in the last four years combined, according to state data.
The jump in state investment comes two years after prison staff members filed a workplace safety complaint, alleging they experienced heat stroke-like symptoms.
Most prisons in Vermont have no permanent air conditioning systems throughout, which officials agree leads both staff and incarcerated people to suffer.
“During the summer when we get a heat wave, we get dozens of grievances,” according to Defender General Matt Valerio, whose office is tasked with investigating unresolved complaints from incarcerated people.
Grievances are formal complaints that incarcerated people can file with the Vermont Department of Corrections.
The department has tried to mitigate the heat by providing fans and ice to staff and incarcerated people, according to Haley Sommer, a spokesperson for the department. And while Valerio commends the makeshift efforts, he agrees the state needs a permanent fix to get prison temperatures under control.
The money lawmakers designated for heating, ventilation and air conditioning, or HVAC, will go toward permanent cooling systems as well as short-term remedies. The money is approved for the state’s upcoming fiscal year, which starts next month.
The state plans to use the newly available funds to complete HVAC systems at Southern State Correctional Facility in Springfield and Northern State Correctional Facility in Newport, according to Cole Barney, a spokesperson for the Vermont Department of Buildings and General Services, which handles construction projects on state property.
The state only has building-wide HVAC systems in its prisons in Rutland and South Burlington, according to Sommer. After projects in Newport and Springfield are completed, two Vermont prisons — those in St. Johnsbury and St. Albans — will still lack permanent air conditioning.
Over the years, the state has spent nearly $8.5 million in state bonds, which typically fund the lion’s share of its construction projects, on prison HVAC upgrades across the last four fiscal years, according to data presented to lawmakers this year.
So far the state has installed air conditioning in the infirmary of the Springfield prison, along with creating cooling rooms for staff, according to Sommer. The state has also propped up temporary air conditioning in a number of rooms including the dining area and the gym in the St. Johnsbury prison, she added.
With the new state money, the buildings department expects to have permanent air conditioning completed by fall 2026 at the Springfield prison and by fall 2027 at the Newport prison.
“When correctional facilities were built, there was less of a need for air conditioning because the summers were not as hot,” Sommer said.
And the summer heat is exacerbated by the constraints inherent in a prison, where the windows don’t open and people may spend long hours in a single room, according to Sommer.
Large construction projects can also be particularly challenging to accomplish in prisons, Sommer said, because if construction is going on in a living unit, the department has to relocate the people it usually holds there.
“The impact of not having air conditioning in correctional facilities is felt acutely, both by correctional staff that work there and by incarcerated people that live there,” Sommer said.
The mutual suffering due to heat can create tension between staff and incarcerated people, Valerio said.
“If it’s hot, it’s crowded, people get short-tempered,” he said. It becomes a health and safety problem, Valerio added.
Valerio said he thinks the Corrections Department has done its best trying to manage the heat in prisons. He knows staff provide fans and extra water — and anything helps, he said.
The investment in permanent air conditioning could reduce tensions, he said.
“It’s a good idea.”
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