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One Dish: Relishing the Crab Cake at Pauline’s Café in South Burlington

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One Dish: Relishing the Crab Cake at Pauline’s Café in South Burlington


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  • Daria Bishop
  • Crab cake appetizer

As if his comment had been scripted for me, a patron at Pauline’s Café on a latest Thursday night time paused on his means out to inform chef-owner David Hoene, “I at all times get the crab cake after I come right here, however tonight it was the perfect of all.”

My husband and I had simply completed our meal on the nearly 50-year-old South Burlington restaurant. We had ordered a refrain line of Pauline’s classics to find out which might earn “One Dish” acclaim, together with the crab cake appetizer ($15), French onion soup ($10), pork schnitzel ($24) and bananas Foster ($12).

This month, the Seven Days meals group is revisiting enduring native eating places — our “eternally faves” — one dish at a time. As we dine on Brie-and-bacon-topped rooster, eggs Benedict, and crab muffins, we’re sharing what retains these neighborhood staples ticking, whether or not for 15 years or 60-plus.

One Dish: Savoring the Brie-and-Bacon Rooster Breast at Vergennes’ Black Sheep Bistro

One Dish: Savoring the Brie-and-Bacon Rooster Breast at Vergennes’ Black Sheep Bistro

By Jordan Barry

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One Dish

At Pauline’s, the delicately puffed crab cake with its luxurious pesto beurre blanc sauce beat out the crisp-coated, lemony schnitzel, which the crab cake-loving patron and his companion had additionally chosen. (Be forewarned when you sit close to me at a restaurant: I’m eavesdropping in your order.)

It turned out that the crab cake additionally bested the schnitzel in its longevity on the restaurant — by many years. That jived with my reminiscences of long-ago meals at Pauline’s, which regularly concluded with bananas Foster set aflame tableside.

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The crab cake predated Hoene’s 2001 arrival on the already well-established spot, which was then owned by native restaurateur Robert Fuller. He bought it to Hoene six years later. Fuller instructed me by textual content that he purchased the enterprise in 1982 from Pauline Hershenson, who opened her eponymous eatery in 1976 or 1977.

Hoene appreciates the numerous longtime Pauline’s prospects, he mentioned, however he is working together with his group to herald new patrons, too. That includes consistently reevaluating the menu in order that it really works for diners, for the underside line and for workers, who might weary of cooking the identical dishes or determine they don’t seem to be snug with lighting desserts on hearth. Tastes change, too, which could imply buying and selling out what Hoene referred to as a “historic” dish such because the creamy, tacky Shelburne Farms rooster for the favored gluten-free rooster schnitzel ($24).

However the crab cake is sacrosanct.

Fuller recalled that the supply of the crab-forward, bread crumb-light recipe was a Pauline’s prepare dinner initially from Maine. Hoene has tweaked the recipe through the years in order that the muffins soufflé a bit of extra, however they’re nonetheless similar to the originals, together with their wealthy sauce made with cream, butter and pesto (housemade in the summertime), balanced with white wine, white wine vinegar and a bit of orange juice.

“We tried completely different sauces, however the prospects saved asking for the beurre blanc,” Hoene mentioned.

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The crab cake is presently on the menu solely in a singleton model with a aspect of seasonal greens, an unexpectedly compelling braise of humble cabbage and carrots once we dined. Regulars know they will order a pair as an entrée, which can value a bit of greater than double the appetizer.

I might fortunately eat two, however the appetizer dimension plus the recent popover bread basket and one of many bar’s new-school cocktails leaves room for my favourite Pauline’s dessert, even with out the fiery tableside drama.

“One Dish” is a collection that samples a single menu merchandise — new, traditional or fleeting — at a Vermont restaurant or different meals venue. Know of an ideal plate we must always function? Drop us a line: [email protected].



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Vermont National Guard facility set to reopen after major PFAS spill

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Vermont National Guard facility set to reopen after major PFAS spill


Operators at a South Burlington wastewater treatment plant first noticed something strange Friday morning. A tank was filling with bubbles, like someone had filled it with laundry detergent.

“It looked like a white bubble bath,” said Bob Fischer, the water quality superintendent for South Burlington. “I could tell it was firefighting foam, but I didn’t know what kind.”

Fischer was right. The night before, 800 gallons of highly concentrated firefighting foam had spilled over the floor of the Vermont Army National Guard aircraft hanger in South Burlington.

It gathered in the landing gear of a Black Hawk military helicopter, before some 150 gallons flowed down a drain and entered the town’s wastewater system, according to National Guard estimates. The material reached a nearby pump station before entering the water treatment plant, which sits next to the Winooski River.

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This type of firefighting foam is called aqueous film-forming foam or AFFF. It’s used for fires that involve flammable liquids, like burning jet fuel. The state of Vermont has banned its use because it contains relatively high concentrations of manufactured chemicals known as PFAS, which have been linked to cancer, liver problems and a myriad of other health issues and can be toxic even in tiny doses.

The Vermont National Guard hadn’t released the material for years — it wasn’t even supposed to be used in the case of a fire.

“If the fire suppression system discharged, all it would discharge is just water — we essentially bypassed the AFFF tank,” said Col. Jacob Roy, the construction and facility management officer at the National Guard. “We realized that the risk to the environment was pretty significant, and we did not want a chance having either a purposeful or accidental release.”

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Roughly 800 gallons of firefighting foam spilled over the National Guard aircraft hanger last week. Officials suspect there was a mechanical failure in their containment system.

Roy suspects the spill Thursday night was a mechanical failure in their containment system. He said there’s been no evidence of a fire.

Since Friday morning, contractors have been out every day cleaning and testing the National Guard facility, the sewer lines, the pump station and the wastewater treatment plant. Roy expects the facility to be open to staff by Wednesday morning.

And test results from the Winooski River should come back within a week.

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In the grand scheme of things, a release of around 150 gallons — about the size of a hot tub — is pretty small within the bigger river system, said Matt Chapman, who directs waste management and prevention at Vermont’s Department of Environmental Conservation.

“It’s good for perspective purposes to appreciate that on a normal day in the Winooski River, the river has a flow rate of about 5,000 gallons per second,” he said.

A long, grey windowless building is visible behind a metal fenced topped with barbed wire.

April McCullum

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The National Guard hadn’t released the firefighting foam in years. It wasn’t even supposed to be used in the case of a fire.

While he’s not overly concerned about contamination in the river, he said what’s less straightforward going forward is how to properly dispose of the 650 gallons of foam that’s been collected. The EPA released interim guidance this year that includes incineration, storage in landfills and underground injection, but none of the options are good.

“I think it’s fair to say there’s no guidance from EPA,” Chapman said.

“One of the reasons why we still have this product over the years onsite, [is] because it is not an easy product to get rid of,” echoed Roy.

He said the disposal method will ultimately depend on the concentration of PFAS found in testing and directed further questions about the disposal process to the National Guard’s waste disposal contractor, Republic Services.

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A spokesperson for the company said they operate several hazardous waste landfills across North America, which are engineered to safely and responsibly manage this type of waste.

Have questions, comments or tips? Send us a message.





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Gatorade names record-breaking North Country star VT’s top girls track and field athlete

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Gatorade names record-breaking North Country star VT’s top girls track and field athlete


North Country junior Sabine Brueck has been selected as Vermont’s top high school girls track and field athlete for the 2024 season, Gatorade announced Tuesday morning.

Brueck is the second athlete in program history to receive the award, which recognizes outstanding athletic excellence, high academic achievement and exemplary character.

The 5-foot-7 Brueck swept the 100- and 300-meter hurdles at the Division I state meet earlier this month, while also taking second in triple jump and third in long jump. Then at the New England championships, Brueck broke her own state record in the 300 hurdles (43.90 seconds) to nab third. Last week, she also reset the Vermont decathlon state record with a winning total of 5,755 points.

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More: State records fall at 48th annual Vermont decathlon championships

Brueck has volunteered locally as a youth track, basketball and soccer coach and has also donated her time as a summer camp counselor, the Gatorade release said.

“Sabine has excelled in a variety of events this year,” Mount Mansfield coach Bill Eschholz said in a statement. “From the sprints to the hurdles to the jumps, she is, without a doubt, the best all-around athlete in track this year.”

Brueck has maintained an A average in the classroom. She will begin her senior year of high school this fall.

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As part of Gatorade’s commitment to breaking down barriers in sport, every player of the year also receives a grant to donate to a social impact partner.

To learn more about the Gatorade Player of the Year program, visit playeroftheyear.gatorade.com.

Become a member of the Vermont Varsity Insider Facebook group at https://bit.ly/2MGSfvX.

Contact Abrami at aabrami@freepressmedia.com. Follow him on Twitter: @aabrami5.





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N.H. man sought in Vt. bank robbery arrested after 20-mile police chase, officials say – The Boston Globe

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N.H. man sought in Vt. bank robbery arrested after 20-mile police chase, officials say – The Boston Globe


Barry A. English Jr., 38, allegedly drove a stolen car during a 20-mile police chase down Interstate 93 in New Hampshire on Monday, officials said.New Hampshire State Police

A Nashua, N.H., man wanted in connection with a Vermont bank robbery was arrested after police pulled over a stolen car following a 20-mile chase down Interstate 93 in New Hampshire on Monday, officials said.

About 4 p.m., state troopers pursued a blue 2013 BMW 550i headed south on I-93 that had been reported stolen from Nashua on Sunday, New Hampshire State Police said in a statement. Believing the driver to be the culprit in a robbery at the Passumpsic Bank in Newport, Vt., hours earlier, police attempted to pull the car over in Lincoln, N.H.

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The driver, who allegedly said he had a weapon during the robbery, refused to stop and traveled 20 miles to Campton, just north of the Plymouth town line, before troopers and a State Police K-9 unit pulled him over, the statement said. State Police identified the driver as 38-year-old Barry A. English Jr., who was taken into custody.

During the arrest, the southbound travel lanes were briefly closed, according to police.

Arraignment information for English was not immediately available Monday night, and it was unclear whether he had hired an attorney.

The chase remains under investigation, the statement said.


Lila Hempel-Edgers can be reached at lila.hempeledgers@globe.com. Follow her on X @hempeledgers and on Instagram @lila_hempel_edgers.





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