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Grilling the Chef: Robert Smith III Leads a Fresh Chapter at Ferrisburgh's Starry Night Café

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Grilling the Chef: Robert Smith III Leads a Fresh Chapter at Ferrisburgh's Starry Night Café


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  • Bear Cieri
  • Chef Robert Smith III

Chef Robert Smith III

  • Position: Executive chef
  • Age: 31
  • Cuisine type: Italian-inflected California cuisine with fresh, seasonal ingredients
  • Experience: On-the-job training in Vermont, from dishwashing at Kitchen Table Bistro to holding all stations at Texas Roadhouse to three years cooking at Guild Tavern. Moved to Los Angeles at 22 and spent four years at chef Michael Cimarusti’s two-Michelin-starred Providence — including off-site events in Mexico and cooking onstage for Bob Weir of the Grateful Dead. Other California career highlights include San Francisco’s Flour + Water and Michelin-starred AL’s Place, as well as Sightglass Coffee’s 14,000-square-foot Hollywood expansion.
  • What’s on the menu: Coal-roasted oysters; crispy root vegetables with Cabot clothbound cheddar espuma; an epic deconstructed steak tartare; housemade pasta; and wood-grilled entrées, including black bass and picanha steak with loaded polenta, black garlic steak sauce, grilled lemon and sauce Bordelaise

The first Friday in May was a busy one at Ferrisburgh’s Starry Night Café. The sun was shining, and the team was snipping tulip stems and cleaning off outdoor tables to open the restaurant’s patio for the first time this year. Baby greens and herbs were peeking through the soil in the fine-dining restaurant’s new raised-bed vegetable garden. And as this reporter from Seven Days walked into the kitchen, a health inspector was wrapping up his surprise visit.

“I thought this interview would be the most nerve-racking thing today,” executive chef Robert Smith III joked, settling into a comfy new leather chair in the restaurant’s window-filled sunroom.

That room, formerly a screened-in porch warmed by space heaters, is just one of the updates recently undertaken at the destination restaurant on Route 7. Since Smith began leading Starry Night’s kitchen in late 2021, there have been three separate renovations. Most of the multiroom restaurant has been refreshed, including a hood expansion to accommodate a wood-fired grill in the kitchen, updates to the octagonal dining room and the porch winterization. The most recent project — a complete revamp of the front barroom, for which Starry was closed for five weeks this spring — has created a modern, downright swanky space.

A Jericho native, Smith already thought the restaurant was one of the most beautiful in Vermont when he arrived for his interview in November 2021, two days after moving back to Vermont from a seven-year stint at top restaurants in California. Now, thanks to all the investment from owners Mark and Molly Valade, the setting has a big-city feel befitting his big, bold menu.

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click to enlarge Grilled oysters at Starry Night Café - BEAR CIERI
  • Bear Cieri
  • Grilled oysters at Starry Night Café

Starry Night regular Bobby Berg, owner of Haute & Heady Cannabis Cuisine, told Seven Days the renovated restaurant “matches California’s wine country refinement with Vermont’s rustic, earthy palates.” Smith, recalling Berg’s feedback on a recent meal, summarized a more visceral take: “He said he wants to take a bath in the black garlic steak sauce.”

The new marble-topped bar is far from a bathtub, but it’s the perfect place to soak up the delights of a cut-to-order, deconstructed steak tartare ($23) or luxuriate over a bowl of ribbony mafaldine pasta with wild morel ragù ($36) alongside a cocktail from bar pro Nick Roy.

Smith took a break from his busy day to chat about the renovations, forgotten rooms and what’s growing in the garden.

How’d the health inspection go?

I saw [the inspector], and I was like, [big sigh] ‘Hi!’ But it went well. I didn’t get the score yet, but I saw what he wrote down and have a good idea.

I’m sure he was just here to check out this incredible new bar.

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[Laughing] This used to be the forgotten room. You’d walk through the door right into the bar, and it was awkward.

A lot of guests would leave notes in their reservations saying they didn’t want to sit in the front room. The first week we were back, we had guests say, “Actually, I do want to sit in there.”

Beyond the physical changes, how has your menu evolved since you started here?

I look back in my pictures at early menu stuff, and I think I was really, really focused on “fine dining” and plating things that way. I’m getting more comfortable with my skill set and what I like.

We’ve gotten a lot more pasta-forward, too. I love northern Italian braises of pork and beef that take several days. We make ricotta and marinate the meat in the whey from that to tenderize it. We’ve even got a pasta extruder in the back, so we can make semolina dried noodles in-house — all kinds of shapes.

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click to enlarge Bartender Nick Roy - BEAR CIERI
  • Bear Cieri
  • Bartender Nick Roy

You posted a video of beet radiatori recently that looked pretty incredible.

Several people thought that was hamburger — my parents and a delivery driver. He said, “Making hamburg?” I was like, What is hamburg? This is great.

If you were to pair a dish with each of the restaurant’s dining rooms, what would they be?

For the bar, grilled oysters, roasted veg and fun specials that we run. You can see the kitchen, so that makes sense to me there. This room [the former porch], I don’t know what it is, but it attracts the most pasta lovers. We’ll get tables of all pasta. The larger dining room, it’s the big showstopper plates.

You’re adding Saturday lunch in June. What will be on the menu?

We’re gonna do some pastas — carbonara, vongole, a spring zucchini pasta with mafaldine — Korean spareribs, and some sandwiches on housemade buns. We’re working on some type of crispy fry thing. We don’t have a fryer in the kitchen, so that’s the dilemma.

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Speaking of fryers, what was it like going from a chain restaurant to fine dining early in your career?

I was hired [at Texas Roadhouse] as a dishwasher and worked cold prep, hot prep, the line, grill. When the Guild was opening up, I was like, “This is sick — a new wood-grilled steakhouse.” I felt confident cooking steak. It’s different quality and seasonings, but you’re cooking a lot of steak at Texas Roadhouse. You get temperature and volume. Still, the Guild was an eye-opening experience. Chef Phillip Clayton was a really great mentor for me. When I left, he gave me a chef coat and a really nice good-grace note to anywhere.

How do you foster that sort of growth now that you’re the mentor?

click to enlarge Mafaldine pasta with wild morel ragù - BEAR CIERI
  • Bear Cieri
  • Mafaldine pasta with wild morel ragù

It’s incredible to see people put more on their plate and just crush it. My sous chef, Eli Eppolito, is really tremendous. He keeps the kitchen afloat — and he’s six foot five and can dunk. He started as a cook; he graduated from UVM and didn’t want to be a sociologist.

I definitely like to promote from within. There’s no reason not to pursue what we have and invest more with them. We’ve got two guys who started in the dish pit, and now they’re on the pasta station and the grill. A chef friend of mine, Austin [Poulin of southern Vermont’s Restaurant at Hill Farm], dined here last week, and he said, “How old are these kids?” I was like, “Combined age of 39. And they’re doing great.” I don’t think they had encouragement like that before.

How do you find people to work here, being a destination spot?

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We do a lot of carpooling. Most of us are commuting from Middlebury or Burlington. Staffing is the hardest. That’s why maintaining this team is so important — this is the best staff we’ve ever had. We have under 20 employees, and not all of them are full time. But this restaurant’s only open 15 hours a week.

Even for diners, you’ve got to plan. You’re not often driving by here at 5:30 p.m. like, “Oh, I’m gonna swing in for dinner.”

As things start popping out of the ground, what are the next local ingredients you’re excited to put on the menu?

Asparagus, better peas — they’re starting, but they need to be a little sweeter — ramps and morels. Our six new garden beds were planted this week; Horsford [Gardens & Nursery] built them, and Farmer Hil is maintaining them for us. As cooks, we’ll go out daily to pick herbs and stuff for a garden salad. I just had some lettuce, which I shouldn’t really be eating because it should grow. But it tastes so fresh.

What’s planted in there? It’s cool to see the beds from Route 7.

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Let’s walk out there. We’ve got radishes, beets, speckled lettuce, red Russian kale, red-veined sorrel, parsley chives, purple shiso. We got that from Farmer Hil last year for the tartare, and now it will be from here.

[Pointing to plants] Cilantro, curly parsley, chives, onions, sage, oregano, thyme, rosemary. It’s like the French Laundry.

Want to go in and light the grill? I have it all set up, because I figured this is a “grilling” thing. I’ll give you the blowtorch.

This interview was edited and condensed for clarity and length.



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Vermont

Visitors spent over $1B in Chittenden County in record VT tourism year

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Visitors spent over B in Chittenden County in record VT tourism year


Vermont’s tourism industry set new records in 2024, with 16 million visitors spending $4.2 billion, according to a community announcement.

The increase in both visitation and spending marks a modest rise from 2023, according to a study by Tourism Economics.

Visitor spending accounted for 9% of Vermont’s gross domestic product, significantly higher than the 2023 national state average of 3%. The tourism sector directly supports 31,780 jobs, or 10% of the state’s workforce, compared to the national average of 4.6%.

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Direct spending by visitors in 2024 included $1.5 billion for lodging, $876 million for food and beverages, $680 million in retail, $678 million for transportation and $462 million for recreation and entertainment. The spending generated $293.5 million in state and local taxes, equivalent to $1,089 per Vermont household.

“As we think about economic impact, it is important to recognize that visitors to Vermont are essentially temporary taxpayers, bringing in outside money that helps to make Vermont more affordable for all of us,” said Department of Tourism and Marketing Commissioner Heather Pelham. “Every guest who buys a meal, stays the night, or heads to the mountain is supporting our businesses, sustaining jobs for Vermonters and funding the essential services that keep our communities strong.”

When considering the broader economic impact, including supply chain purchases and employee spending, the ripple effects of visitor spending amounted to $7 billion in economic activity in 2024.

The report also provided county-specific data, showing increased spending in every county. Chittenden County accounted for the highest share of visitor spending at 24.5%, at well over $1 billion. Lamoille, Rutland and Windsor counties each represented more than 10% of statewide visitor spending.

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In Caledonia County, direct spending from visitors reached $109 million, a 7.7% increase from 2023.

“During the 2024 total solar eclipse, the positive impact of tourism on a rural community like St. Johnsbury was clear,” said Gillian Sewake, director of Discover St. Johnsbury. “An estimated 23,000 people came to our town alone. It was wonderful to feel that vibrancy in our downtown, with visitors filling sidewalks, enjoying the attractions that we know and love, and helping businesses break revenue records.”

In Bennington County, tourism generated almost $300 million in direct spending in 2024.

“Tourism is one of our region’s most powerful economic drivers, supporting nearly 13% of our workforce,” said John Burnham, executive director of the Manchester Business Association. “But its value reaches far beyond jobs. Visitor spending strengthens our economy, sustains small businesses, and helps fund the local services and amenities we all rely on, from restaurants and trails to cultural attractions and community events. Tourism also inspires us to preserve our historic character and adds a vibrancy that enriches everyday life. Simply put, the visitor economy helps keep our region the welcoming, thriving place we’re proud to call home.”

The 2024 economic impact report comes at a time when resident support of tourism is strong. In the University of Vermont Center for Rural Studies 2025 Vermonter Poll, 85% of residents agreed with the statement “Tourism is important to my local economy,” and 78% agreed with the statement “Increased tourism would have a beneficial impact on my local community.”

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To read “Economic Impact of Visitors in Vermont 2024,” learn more about the report’s methodology, and the additional indirect and induced effects of visitor spending, visit the Vermont Department of Tourism and Marketing Tourism Research webpage, accd.vermont.gov/tourism/research.

This story was created by reporter Beth McDermott, bmcdermott1@usatodayco.com, with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence (AI). Journalists were involved in every step of the information gathering, review, editing and publishing process. Learn more at cm.usatoday.com/ethical-conduct.



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Obstacles for Vermont refugees is focus at roundtable

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Obstacles for Vermont refugees is focus at roundtable


BENNINGTON — Sitting in a circle at the Bennington County Multicultural Community Center, Jack Rossiter-Munley shared the story of two families with whom he had worked.

The families had immigrated from South Sudan to Bennington, which was designated as a refugee site in October 2022. Since then, about 205 refugees have immigrated to the town. But the lives that they had hoped for in the United States haven’t necessarily come to fruition.

“These are folks who needed more orientation to work in the United States, but also the line is moving, and so you’re no longer on the line,” said Rossiter-Munley, the director of the Bennington County Multicultural Community Center. “Because their actual work here was unstable, they decided, ‘we’re just going to try to find work somewhere else.’”

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Some of the family members moved to the Midwest, where they hoped to find a larger South Sudanese community and more support from their relatives. Those still in Bennington are looking to follow, he said.

Rossiter-Munley and about a dozen other people were gathered on Dec. 5 at BCMCC for a roundtable on Employment Support for New Americans, part of Gov. Phil Scott’s “Capital for a Day” initiative. That day, Scott and several of his cabinet members stationed themselves around Bennington County, holding meetings and hosting conversations with local leaders as they heard how to better support Bennington County.

The roundtable came at an especially pressing time for local immigrants. On Dec. 2, the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration services under President Trump announced that it would pause its review of applications for green cards, asylum and citizenship following the shooting of two National Guard officers deployed in Washington, D.C. The pause applies to 19 countries — including Afghanistan and the Republic of Congo — from where many new Americans in Bennington emigrate.

People also come to Bennington from Venezuela, South Sudan and Iraq as part of the resettlement programs, Rossiter-Munley said. At the following Monday’s Select Board meeting, he read a statement on behalf of Afghan women in Bennington, condemning the violence in Washington, D.C. and asking for the community’s understanding. And at the roundtable, he was clear about the legal implications for those already living in Bennington: “nothing has changed.”

Kendal Smith, commissioner of the Department of Labor, was in attendance at the Dec. 5 meeting and represented Vermont. She sought to understand how the state could better support immigrants and refugees in Bennington County.

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The biggest challenges Smith identified were language access support, transportation and licensing attainment, she said.

Translation is an area that gets highlighted the most in Bennington because the town is “uniquely deficient” in providing such community support, Rossiter-Munley said. Bennington county was almost 95 percent white, according to the latest census data.

Smith said that the Department of Labor is exploring funding the purchase of more translation devices to help overcome language barriers at work. The state currently contracts with Propio, an AI-based interpretation service. BCMCC uses Boostlingo to translate their speech into languages like Swahili and Dinka.

Another difficulty in Bennington is access to transportation to work. Wendy Morris, the Department of Labor’s regional manager, said that even commutes between Bennington and Manchester can pose serious challenges for new Americans.

“We help them get a job — let’s say we could do that, and we get them to Manchester,” she said. “We do the interview with them. How do we get them there every single day?”

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The Department of Labor will explore “creative ways” to fund and provide driver’s licenses to immigrants and refugees, said Rowan Hawthorne, the policy and legislative affairs director at the Commissioner’s office. The Department will also work with the Office of Professional Regulation to “overcome licensing transfer barriers.”

Nearly every member of the roundtable stressed that immigrants and refugees in Bennington faced difficulties finding jobs that suited their training — for example, as pharmacists or engineers — and often were met with employers who were skeptical about hiring them.

All of it means that volunteers and leaders working with refugees are stretched thin.

“I can’t say enough how everybody in this room is doing more than their job,” said Sean-Marie Oller, director of the Tutorial Center, a Bennington nonprofit that provides adult education and literacy classes.

Still, Rossiter-Munley tries to be optimistic. He cited a study that showed refugee resettlement provided a net benefit of $123.8 billion to local, state and federal economies. And he’s encouraged by the state Department of Labor’s openness to growth.

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“When we are sitting down to meet with employers, or offering support or working alongside the Department of Labor, the more of that knowledge can become just part of the day-to-day work of a how a local department … functions,” he said.

“This is part of how we work, and it’s not a special one-time project.”



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‘Wreaths Across America’ observed at Vermont Veterans’ Home

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‘Wreaths Across America’ observed at Vermont Veterans’ Home


BENNINGTON — Holiday commemorations extended to the Vermont Veterans’ Home cemetery on Saturday, where community members gathered to honor the service men and women interred there through Wreaths Across America. Among those participating were members of Bennington’s own Civil Air Patrol.

The wreath-laying included an official ceremony, as well as laying wreaths at veteran graves and saying the veterans’ names out loud.

“So many Vermonters have sacrificed to serve in our Armed Forces. Sponsoring a wreath is a sign of gratitude to our veterans – both those who are living and to those who have departed,” said Susan Sweetser, the founder of the Vermont Veteran Moms group for Wreath Across America. “The first year after my daughter, Sgt. Virginia L. Sweetser, passed away and was buried at the Vermont Veterans Cemetery in Randolph, I participated in the Wreaths Across America event in Randolph. I was so discouraged to see that only 250 wreaths had been sponsored for the over 4,000 graves at VVMC. I vowed that I would work to change that. We have come a long way and I am praying that this will be the year that we see all the participating veteran graves covered.”

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Wreaths Across America provides wreaths for Veteran graves all over the U.S., including the graves at Arlington National Cemetery.



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