Rhode Island
Providence, Rhode Island: Where Culinary Culture Defines Local Life
The UN Food and Agriculture Committee highlighted Providence as an exemplar in its publication Integrating Food into Urban Design.
Providence Tourism Council
In the realm of North American food cities, Providence, Rhode Island, often flies under the radar—but those in the know recognize it as one of the nation’s most extraordinary culinary destinations. This compact New England capital has methodically cultivated an environment where food culture defines the fabric of local life.
What sets Providence apart is no accident. As early as the 1970s, forward-thinking urban planners laid the groundwork for a food-friendly ecosystem, protecting green spaces and establishing gardens and distribution networks. Their vision was so successful that in 2019, the UN Food and Agriculture Committee highlighted Providence as an exemplar in its publication Integrating Food into Urban Design.
The city’s thriving dining scene is supported by a discerning public that values quality, alongside local laws designed to encourage food business growth, such as support for “cottage food,” meaning food made in a home kitchen for sale.
Hemenway’s Seafood Grill and Oyster Bar in Providence has undergone a recent renovation.
Hemenway’s
Chefs Love Providence
The city’s culinary excellence is anchored by Johnson & Wales University (JWU), one of the nation’s premier culinary institutions. Chef Rollie Wesen is a JWU instructor and the executive director of the Jacques Pépin Foundation—which is celebrating Pépin’s culinary legacy and upcoming 90th birthday with a series of fundraising events, including 90 extraordinary chef-hosted restaurant gatherings.
Wesen says many talented alumni choose to remain in Providence, consistently enriching the local food scene, which never gets stale. New openings happen regularly, and this spring Track 15, an 18,000-square-foot food hall located in historic Union Station is a highly anticipated addition.
“It is a great place to be a chef,” says Wesen. “Because the community is so strong and the public appreciates good food.” The city’s strategic location—within easy reach of both Boston and New York—combined with its more relaxed pace makes it an attractive home base for culinary professionals.
Providence’s food ecosystem is strengthened by exceptional local resources, says Wesen. The region boasts some of the country’s most accessible and highest-quality seafood, complemented by a robust network of farmers, producers, and shellfish farms. Farm Fresh RI, which Wesen regards as the nation’s leading food hub, creates connections between chefs and farmers while hosting vibrant farmers’ markets that have become community fixtures.
The city has a layered academic landscape—including JWU, Brown University, University of Rhode Island, Rhode Island School of Design and Providence College—which Wesen says contributes to a cosmopolitan environment where cultural diversity is celebrated through food. This intellectual and cultural ferment has given rise to an impressive array of restaurants that punch well above their weight for a city of Providence’s size.
The city has a layered academic landscape—including Johnson & Wales University, Brown University, University of Rhode Island, Rhode Island School of Design and Providence College.
Providence Tourism Council
Providence’s Culinary Travel Experiences
Rick Simone serves as the president of the Federal Hill Commerce Association, representing a vibrant area renowned for some of the finest Italian cuisine in North America, led by the legendary al Forno. “The chefs in our city often work together to push boundaries and deliver unforgettable dining experiences, drawing inspiration from a world of diverse cuisines,” says Simone.
Wesen names standout restaurants like Oberlin, Persimmon and Nick’s on Broadway—all of which have earned national recognition, while Gracie’s, Tallulah’s Taqueria, New Rivers, Sarto, Bayberry Garden and newly renovated Hemenway’s (Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence since 2012) continue to innovate and delight. He also mentions the terrific ethnic cuisine of Providence including the classic Italian restaurants on Federal Hill, plus Portuguese, Latino, Indian, Japanese, Korean and Chinese eateries.
And don’t forget the drinks. “Not to be forgotten is how well our restaurants masterfully curate wine lists and craft cocktails, pairing innovation with sophistication that elevates any dining experience,” says Simone.
This attention to detail creates experiences that keep critics and food enthusiasts coming back for more. In fact, Eater named Providence on its prestigious Where to Eat 2025 list—one of a mere 18 winners. “Providence is truly a destination for anyone with a passion for great food,” says Simone.
Wesen also points out a nearby treasure: right down the road toward Newport, on Aquidneck Island, where visitors can find food, farms, restaurants and vineyards—not to mention great breweries and distilleries.
This mix of history, education, diversity and innovation has created a dynamic food culture, making Providence one of America’s top culinary destinations. “We truly have everything we could hope for,” says Wesen. “In all phases, from brunch to late night.”
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Rhode Island
Ammonia leak from Rhode Island food processing facility sends 13 to hospital, 2 in critical condition
More than a dozen people were hospitalized, including two in critical condition, after falling ill from an ammonia leak at a food processing facility in Rhode Island on Thursday night, officials said.
Hazmat teams were working to ventilate the Infinity Fresh Kitchen facility, which is run in partnership with Taylor Farms in North Kingston, after an anhydrous ammonia leak around 6 p.m., according to the state’s Department of Environmental Management.
Thirteen people were hospitalized and two are in critical condition, the department said.
“We had people coming out of the building complaining that they were smelling of ammonia with irritation to their eyes and throats. There was no liquid ammonia leak, it was all vapor,” North Kingstown Fire Chief John Linacre told WJAR.
The Department of Environmental Management explained that a technician at the facility turned the ammonia system off, so a full evacuation wasn’t required.
The agency is still probing the cause of the leak. Linacre told the outlet that they suspected it originated from a valve on the roof that came loose, which created an opening for the air intake to suck the ammonia into the facility.
Taylor Farms was previously fined a whopping $650,000 for an ammonia leak that stemmed from its refrigeration system and sent 15 employees to the hospital in 2020.
Last week, 36 people were hospitalized, including four in critical condition, after ammonia leaked out of a tanker truck that was rolling through a small city in Oklahoma. Roughly 600 people in the surrounding area had to shelter in place for hours until officials gave the all-clear.
In 2022, one HVAC contractor died and another was sickened at a food plant in Massachusetts when an ammonia pipe they were working near started to leak.
Exposure to ammonia can cause severe irritation, burns, and difficulty breathing. In high concentrations, it can lead to life-threatening conditions.
Rhode Island
A more complex picture of Rhode Island’s first couple, Roger and Mary Williams – The Boston Globe
And she discusses a new Rhode Island Historical Society exhibit that provides fresh insights into Williams’s wife, Mary, who has received a fraction of the attention and credit given to her husband.
“I hope with reading these sources yourself, you get a sense of Roger in all of his complexity, with all of those nuances,” Carrington-Farmer said. “And the same for Mary, too. I hope from the book and from the exhibit, you see that she played a really important role.”
In the book, Carrington-Farmer demonstrates that the story of Roger Williams is complicated, filled with contradictions.
“He proclaimed Indigenous People were equal in God’s eyes, but also referred to them as proud and filthy barbarians,” she wrote. “He described how he longed to convert Indigenous Peoples to Christianity, but later changed his mind and declared that forced religious worship was so offensive to God it stunk in His nostrils.”
And while Williams is famous for creating “Rhode Island’s bold experiment in religious freedom for all,” she said he “detested the Quaker religion.”
In the 17th century, Quakers were considered some of the most dangerous people of that time, Carrington-Farmer explained. “We tend to think of Quakers in the 18th and 19th century as being these pacifists,” she said. But they were then challenging the hierarchy of the church and state, and some Quakers “turn up to church naked, protesting established religion by taking their clothes off,” she said.
Williams considered Quakers “clownish,” she said, but he allowed them to practice their religion in Providence “for better or worse.”
The contradictions in Williams are clear, Carrington-Farmer said, when he founds Providence in part on “this ideal of Indigenous land rights,” but later “takes a young Pequot boy as an unfree person in his house.” She said it’s unclear if the boy was enslaved, but Williams later described him as his Native servant.
The book also tells the story of how Roger Williams fell in love with a woman named Jane Whalley before he met Mary. Williams went to Whalley’s aunt, Lady Joan Barrington, and asked for her hand in marriage.
“But he was not of the gentry status, and so she forbids the marriage on that ground, and those letters are cringeworthy,” Carrington-Farmer said. “I’ve included them in my book because I think they really humanize Roger Williams.”
Carrington-Farmer wrote that Roger Williams “is arguably the most written-about person of 17th-century New England,” and the traditional “great man” narrative depicts him as “a lone hero in the grand founding of Providence.” But, she wrote, “none of his accomplishments would have been possible without Mary Williams.”
For example, she noted Roger Williams returned to England twice to secure a royal charter for his colony.
“And it’s Mary who’s left running the show,” Carrington-Farmer said. “Roger, whilst he’s in England in the 1650s, writes these desperate letters begging Mary to join him in England, and she refuses. She’s got a job to do in keeping Providence going.”
Mary Williams’s independent streak was also clear when she continued to participate in services at the Salem Church after her husband stopped attending, and he refused to pray or give thanks at meals with her.
“It must have been awkward, right?” Carrington-Farmer said. “We don’t have Mary’s account of what that was like, but again, it’s these small glimmers of Mary’s agency.”
But telling the story of Mary Williams can be challenging, she said, because there’s only one surviving copy of her handwriting — an unsent letter she addressed to “My dear and loving husband.”
Carrington-Farmer curated the exhibit about Mary Williams that will be on display at the John Brown House Museum, in Providence, for the next three years.
“It is the first public history display telling the important and overlooked role of Mary in the founding of Providence and later Rhode Island,” she said.
The Rhode Island Report podcast is produced by The Boston Globe Rhode Island in collaboration with Roger Williams University. To get the latest episode each week, follow the Rhode Island Report podcast on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and other podcasting platforms, or listen in the player above.
Edward Fitzpatrick can be reached at edward.fitzpatrick@globe.com. Follow him @FitzProv.
Rhode Island
State veteran services, Meals on Wheels host Veterans Café in East Providence
EAST PROVIDENCE, R.I. (WJAR) — Rhode Island’s Office of Veterans Services and Meals on Wheels of Rhode Island hosted a Veterans Café in East Providence on Wednesday.
The free social dining experience for veterans is held once a month across the state, officials said.
Rhode Island’s Office of Veterans Services and Meals on Wheels of Rhode Island hosted a Veterans Café in East Providence on Wednesday. (WJAR)
November’s café was held at the East Providence Senior Center at 610 Waterman Ave. from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Officials said veterans can also make one-on-one connections, access on-the-spot claims, file for benefits and have a meal all at one place.
The Veterans Café in December will be held at the Southside Cultural Center in Providence on Dec. 17.
More about the event and registration can be found on the Rhode Island’s Office of Veterans Services’ website.
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