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Magic city undercover

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Magic city undercover

The first time Lydia Bulas chased a private jet down the runway at Florida’s Lauderdale-Hollywood Airport, it was May of 1983 and America was losing the war on drugs. She was a 31-year-old rookie special agent, slouched in a surveillance car and watching a Cuban load 17 cardboard boxes on to a Learjet. The balding man staggered up the stairs as the twin engines started to whine. She eyed her radio, willing it to crackle to life, but it didn’t comply. The aircraft lurched forward and made for the runway. Finally, Bulas got the call from customs — whatever the man was transporting, he hadn’t signed a form. She roared on to the runway in hot pursuit.

A legion of cop cars joined the drag race, but the jet was picking up speed. Bulas was neck and neck with the cockpit and running out of runway. She swung in front of the aircraft, forcing the pilot to screech to a halt. Revolver drawn, she leapt out into the heat. Agents with shotguns stormed the cabin and tore open the boxes. Inside, they found more than $5mn in cash — exactly what Bulas was looking for. Cartels were importing a then — new drug, cocaine, by plane and boat, but their challenge was sending their profits in cash back to Colombia.

A government audit of the US banking system’s cash flow had recently discovered more than $6bn in unexplained banknotes flowing from banks in South Florida — more than the entire US currency surplus and theoretically enough to sink the actual American economy. So the government dispatched undercover operatives to stop it. But Bulas wasn’t with the DEA or FBI. She worked for the IRS, on a secret operation that had nothing to do with tax refunds. Her boss had issued his staff with novelty business cards that stated their line of work:

OPERATION GREENBACK.
USED CARS, WHISKEY, PEAT MOSS, NAILS, LAND, FLY SWATTERS, RACING FORMS, BONGO DRUMS. WARS FOUGHT, GOVERNMENTS RUN, BRIDGES DESTROYED, UPRISINGS QUELLED, REVOLUTIONS STARTED. TIGERS TAMED, SALOONS EMPTIED, ORGIES ORGANIZED, VIRGINS CONVERTED, COMPUTERS VERIFIED

The Cuban in the Learjet turned out to be Ramon Milian-Rodriguez, a 32-year-old businessman with a masters degree and an arrogance that stunned investigators. “I’m a launderer of narco-dollars for the Who’s Who of drug dealers,” he boasted to federal agents after his arrest. “Nothing else generates this kind of cash. Not even General Motors.” He told them they, “didn’t know what they had here”.

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© Tania Franco Klein

Milian-Rodriguez was right. American law enforcement had mistaken the narcotics industry for disparate groups of “cocaine cowboys” but in Colombia, Pablo Escobar was building a violent drug empire that stretched from Medellín to Miami. When Bulas’s colleagues searched Milian-Rodriguez’s office, they found a briefcase stuffed with records that showed he had laundered a staggering $146mn in the previous eight months alone. They picked the lock on his closet and discovered a submachine gun in a sack, helpfully labelled “UZI”. They unzipped another bag and found 28kg of cocaine.

Bulas, who is Cuban-American, couldn’t contain her emotions. “I was very upset that a Cuban would do that,” she recalls. “You come here to this country, they give you a chance to prosper, and you go and do illegal stuff. No. Go back to where you came from.”


When Lydia Bulas was eight years old, her father arrived at their apartment in Havana, Cuba, and started stuffing cash into suitcases. It was 1960, and Fidel Castro’s goons had just informed her grandmother that the family farm now belonged to the government. “My dad was a doctor. He studied medicine while Castro was studying law in the University of Havana, so he knew the guy was no good,” she recalls. He said, “We gotta get out of here.” Bulas was spirited out of the country on an aircraft with her mother, grandmother and brother. Like so many Cuban émigrés, she arrived in Miami hoping for a new life.

But being new wasn’t easy, especially for a bookish kid with glasses. “I was kind of shy, sort of a nerd,” Bulas says. “I went to a Catholic school, and I spoke no English. The teacher happened to be a Cuban lady. She stayed after school with me and taught me. Until I got it right, I never left my desk.” By the time she graduated high school, she was fluent in English, a straight-A student and headed to the University of Miami to study accounting. At night, her mother begged her to go to parties, but she preferred to stay home and study the tax code. In 1975, she took an entry-level job at the IRS answering tax-payers’ questions.

Even for a wallflower, cubicle life was dull. “I’m a Gemini, so I’m always a very active person,” Bulas says. A marriage to a cousin’s friend after college lasted only three years. “I fell out of love with him,” she explains. She eventually tried nightclubs, such as The Mutiny in Coconut Grove, a waterfront drinking hole that came to be known as “Hotel Scarface”, where bartenders were selling more bottles of Dom Pérignon than in any other establishment in the world at the time. She was shocked to see people openly snorting white powder. “My father, when I was little, he once took me to a hospital where all the drug addicts were,” she recalls. “It shocked me so bad that today I can say that I have never even smoked a joint.”

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© Tania Franco Klein

By then, drugs had changed Magic City. Bulas watched TV news reports about Wild West-style shoot-outs between rival Colombian drug traffickers in shopping malls. Bullet-riddled bodies were turning up in trunks. “After I started working for the government, I woke up,” Bulas says. While local law enforcement and the DEA struggled to contain the tonnes of cocaine arriving at the border, the IRS became concerned with the spectacular amounts of cash it generated.

One day, a Cuban colleague at the IRS boasted to Bulas about his new job running raids for the “criminal division”. He said they urgently needed Spanish speakers and people who understood numbers. Bulas hoped it might be good for her social life. “You didn’t want to say you worked for the IRS,” she recalls, explaining that people feared she would audit them. “Afterwards I could say, ‘I don’t do taxes, I do criminal division.’”

At a federal training centre in Georgia, Bulas learnt to fire a revolver. She learnt to poke an assailant in both eyes, stamp on his toe, then “kick him in the balls”, she recalls. Instead of a skirt, she wore jeans and a gun on her hip. The glasses were gone. “I felt like it really pulled my ego very high,” she admits. It also gave her life meaning. As only the second woman to join the division, she was eager to make her mark.

In 1980, Bulas was assigned to Operation Greenback, named for the green paper money issued by the Union government during the civil war. The team comprised maths whizzes from the IRS, the US customs service and Justice Department. Being the first Latin woman on the task force gave her an additional responsibility. “I was very, very grateful to this country,” she says, “for having allowed me to become what I was.”

Mike McDonald, the agent in charge of Operation Greenback, wore a sensible, side-parted hairstyle and kept a huge dictionary on his desk. He also liked to pose for photos with a semi-automatic rifle and had a wicked sense of humour. “He was a brain. The most knowledgeable guy regarding money laundering that you could ever meet,” Bulas says. “I looked up to him. He wasn’t like a boss. He was like one of us.”

Operation Greenback quickly outgrew its headquarters at the federal building in downtown Miami and moved into a location recently abandoned by a defunct Miami newspaper. Agents had to steal furniture from their neighbour, the US attorney’s office, in a heist that caused a bureaucratic conflict. Their new headquarters had a pirate-ship vibe. Boxes overflowed with evidence; electric typewriters clattered; people smoked at their desks, if only to mask the smell of rotting food and diapers leaking from bags of garbage taken from traffickers’ homes and awaiting analysis. “It was disgusting sometimes,” Bulas recalls.

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“We were just all kids,” recalls Larry Sands, a special agent with Operation Greenback, who colleagues liked to call “Catfish”. “We were young, we were dedicated to the mission.” According to Jonathan Rosen, an assistant professor and organised crime expert at New Jersey City University, Greenback didn’t need guys with guns to beat the traffickers, but “accountants and an army of nerds”. Brave nerds willing to go face to face with international criminals. “Back then, since I was young, I thought I was invincible,” Bulas says.


Bulas spent the early 1980s watching small Miami banks that cops and criminals called Coin-O-Washers. She studied suspicious customers, who pushed in cart loads of cash with a deposit slip gripped between their teeth. Others carried banknotes that reeked of fish, having sat in bags used by seafaring smugglers. Back then, there were no money laundering laws. Banks were required to file a report when someone deposited $10,000 or more, but few bothered to.

One day, Bulas watched a portly Colombian travel agent arrive at the Great American Bank of Dade County, a known Coin-O-Washer. Greenback agents suspected the man, 46-year-old Isaac Kattan, was a major money launderer. But Kattan didn’t strike Bulas as a drug guy. The softly spoken father-of-two drove an old Chevrolet Citation and carried a mysterious purple satchel. She soon learnt that each of his four rented apartments contained a high-speed money counter. Every day she watched him drive trunk-loads of cash to the bank at recklessly high speeds, depositing up to $4mn a day, between meetings at phone booths and parking lots. One DEA agent on his tail often wondered: “Doesn’t this guy ever stop?”

wads of cash under a car seat
© Tania Franco Klein

Tellers at the bank also worked nonstop, counting Kattan’s millions through the night. Though technically he was doing nothing illegal, his behaviour set alarm bells ringing. One morning in 1981, Bulas watched a car thief drive off in Kattan’s car, leaving him stranded outside the bank. (Miami was, by then, the crime capital of the world.) “What the hell?” she said to herself, as Kattan begged bank employees: “No police! No police!”

Bulas and 20 Greenback agents raided the bank. They arrested three employees who were in cahoots with Kattan and seized boxes of documents that revealed the scope of his operation. Every dollar Kattan deposited was turned into a credit for pesos and cashed out in Colombia, leaving a tidy profit for the bank. “We were able to build a case against him,” she says. They could prove he was involved in drugs, but didn’t know how to prosecute him. Then, a stroke of luck.

In February 1981, six undercover DEA and IRS agents followed Kattan all day. They watched him order a Cuban coffee, before he met two men in a flashy Jaguar and handed them a mysterious red briefcase. Agents were ordered to tail the car and “take ’em”. Inside Kattan’s suitcase, they found 20kg of cocaine with a street value of more than $300,000. After they slapped on the handcuffs, agents found $16,000 in cash under his front seat and $385,000 in cashiers’ checks in his briefcase. Inside his purple satchel? Evidence of hundreds of millions of dollars in money laundering transactions. Bulas recalls seeing Kattan’s face staring out from the front page of the Miami Herald, under the headline: SOUTH FLORIDA’S AL CAPONE.

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“He was a dead duck,” says Charles Blau, who prosecuted the case. Blau, a Midwesterner from Indiana, knew they’d got lucky. “It was fortuitous, I guess, on our part that the one time that he made a dumb mistake and got in the middle of a drug transaction, we were watching him do it.”

It took just 20 minutes for a jury to convict Kattan of drug conspiracy. On August 17 1981, he was sent to prison for 30 years. The Great American Bank of Dade County became only the second ever US bank indicted for money laundering. One employee was caught in a sting operation that foiled a plot to blow up prosecutors and was sent to prison. Blau, the prosecutor, recalls terrifying a first date by holding a mirror beneath his car, checking for bombs. “I don’t think she went out with me [again] for six months,” Blau recalls. (They’re still married.)

Kattan was just the start. In the first few years of the 1980s, Operation Greenback smashed a total of seven money laundering rings involving 16 narcotics organisations that were responsible for $2bn in trafficked cash. The operation boasted 164 arrests, 211 indictments, 63 convictions and $38.5mn in seized currency. Those days whizzed by like dollar bills rattling through a counting machine, and the team who worked in the former newspaper office were now creating their own headlines. “Heck, we wrote the mission, with accomplishments every day,” recalls Catfish.

© Tania Franco Klein

Bulas was finally enjoying her social life, but work often got in the way. One night she was dining with a girlfriend in Coral Gables when she overheard two men talking loudly in Spanish about “merchandise”. “If these people pay with a credit card, we’re going to follow them,” Bulas whispered. When their main course arrived, they had already left. By then, Bulas had tailed the suspects to a warehouse, which she later discovered was full of drug cash.

Another time, an informant tipped off Bulas to some cash hidden at a Colombian safe house, behind a fake wall. During the raid, Bulas knew the location of the cash, but needed to protect her source. So she told the suspects that her sniffer dog barked when he found banknotes. “I kicked the dog in the ass,” she recalls, adding that it was a gentle kick. When she pulled out the cash, one of the suspects lamented: “Shit, that dog is really good.”

The jaw-dropping stings continued. When Bulas stopped the Learjet on the tarmac in May of 1983, it was the biggest cash seizure in US history and a huge splash for Operation Greenback. Even the suspect, Milian-Rodriguez, recalled the bust fondly. “My arrest was a Hollywood arrest, you can see this in any action movie,” he later said. “The anti-hero gets on his private jet . . . and, all of a sudden, 100 police cars chase you down the runway.” Milian-Rodriguez was later sentenced to 43 years in prison for money laundering.

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Yet the jailing of Kattan turned out to be a false victory for Bulas and Operation Greenback. Banks in south Florida were no longer willing to take in truckloads of dirty cash. The party was over. “Miami lost its role as a critical area for money laundering. Our banking system suffered, so did the housing market,” says Bruce Bagley, a former University of Miami professor and expert on money laundering (who, incredibly, was jailed in 2020 for money laundering). Milian-Rodriguez admitted that the $5.4mn on board his Learjet was a “monthly stipend” headed to Panama’s General Manuel Noriega, who was now washing the cartel’s cash and making Operation Greenback harder than ever.


By 1984, Bulas was starting to feel the strain. She was 32 and a single mother, juggling undercover assignments while wrangling babysitters. An unhappy marriage to a Syrian waiter had lasted less than a year, and she had given up on dating. “You don’t want to bring any guy [home] just for the hell of it. If you have a daughter, you have to be careful,” she says. Becoming a mother had made the war on drugs personal. She couldn’t imagine seeing her daughter in rehab or worse. When she took risks at work, Bulas admits, “I did it mainly for her.”

Pablo Escobar and the Medellín Cartel controlled 80 per cent of the world’s cocaine trade at that time. Laundered cash made Escobar rich, and he was eventually added to Forbes’ first ever List of International Billionaires, alongside the owner of car giant Fiat and the Benetton fashion family. He wore a diamond-encrusted Rolex; he purchased a bullet-ridden 1930s touring car purportedly once owned by gangsters Bonnie and Clyde; he stocked his private zoo with a soccer-playing kangaroo and a pair of rare black parrots valued at $20,000 apiece. But his violent trade created misery and death on the streets of Colombia and Miami.

In 1984, at the height of the cocaine boom, McDonald sent Bulas on undercover missions posing as an intermediary. As “Lydia Barrera”, Bulas promised cartel members she could launder dirty cash through corrupt bankers without leaving a paper trail. Once they were on the hook, Greenback agents would launder some of the cash, then follow them back to their stash house, where uniformed agents would seize the money. They called it “ripping” the cash.

“You have to dress like you have money,” Bulas says. She wore fake jewellery and carried herself with extra swagger. After the sting and the big reveal, she led the negotiations too. “If you want to have your sentence reduced,” she told the suspects, “you introduce us to your big guy and tell them I’m very reliable.” It was effective but risky. One night in Puerto Rico, Bulas was partying with cartel members at a disco called Hunca Munca, wearing a blonde wig, when she ran into a friend from high school. She pulled the woman into the restroom and whispered: “You don’t know me!”

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two women  seated inside a car
© Tania Franco Klein

Support for Bulas arrived in 1984, when Greenback recruited more female operatives. Former IRS auditor Debbie Crumley, 32, transferred to the criminal division when her husband’s job took the couple to Miami. She arrived from a small-town in Georgia with blonde bangs and a “bless your heart” southern accent, behind the wheel of a burgundy Nissan convertible, blasting Tina Turner’s “What’s Love Got To Do With It”. “I just wanted to do something with some pizzazz,” she recalls. When she teamed up with Bulas, other agents started calling them “Cagney and Lacey” after the television cop duo.

Crumley’s undercover persona was a ruthless businesswoman who casually dealt in millions. “But you also had to be normal,” she explains. “You couldn’t come across as too anxious. You were just a person trying to make a deal and, fortunately, most of the people we did that with believed us.” On every sting, the female agents were told a secret code-word, like “Disneyland” or “daycare”, to summon armed agents if a deal went south. The cartel’s couriers, Bulas recalls, “were little shitheads”.

The bad guys were not stupid, Crumley says. “They figured out they were being followed sometimes, and then they turned the tables on us and started following us.” One time a suspect told her: “I know where you and your husband had dinner last weekend.” Bulas and Crumley were issued specially designed green leather handbags to carry their handguns, which came with speedloaders and hollow-point bullets with more stopping power.

Back in the office, they posed for goofy mugshots for McDonald, who posted them to a fictional IRS Ten Most Wanted List on the wall. In truth, they were the stars of the whole operation. “They were women out of the ordinary,” says Dick Gregorie, a prosecutor who worked on various Greenback cases. “They were every bit as tough as the guys were and they had no problems in standing up to them and making sure they got heard and things got done.” This put some noses out of joint.

Not long after she joined Greenback, Crumley was driving past a suspect’s house late at night. The road was lined by tall trees, and it was pitch black. She noticed a car drawing closer to her rear bumper. Certain that her cover was blown and armed Colombians were on her tail, she radioed Catfish for back-up. “I pulled out my weapon, and I was ready to do whatever I had to do,” she recalls. Agents rammed the car to a stop. “It was one of the agents from Greenback who was playing a trick on me. I remember Catfish saying, ‘You fool . . . she was ready to take you down.’”

© Tania Franco Klein

Another night Crumley arrested two traffickers, a brother and sister, in possession of several kilos of cocaine. The woman had a six-year-old son, Enrique, who found himself at Greenback headquarters with Crumley. “Against his chest he cradled his mother’s empty purse which seemed to act as his security blanket,” she recalls. When his mother told him she was going to jail, tears streamed down the boy’s face. “She showed no emotion,” Crumley recalls. After she took Enrique to social services, his mother received an eight-year sentence, and never once asked about her son, she says.

In their bid to capture bigger targets, Bulas and Crumley set their sights on two Uruguayan launderers named Roberto del Pino and Carlos Sarmiento. They both looked to them like slick South American smugglers straight from Central Casting. Del Pino was the one with the limp. Both had recently turned 30 and had tired of working in a sausage factory and selling books, before finding success smuggling gold into Colombia in del Pino’s wooden leg. After a tarot reader introduced them to some Colombians, they started sending tonnes of cash in twenties, fives and one-dollar bills from Miami and Los Angeles back to Medellín.

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The key to their operation was a striking Puerto Rican woman named Maria, who wore skyscraper heels and had the type of jet black mullet made popular by Cher. For a 2 per cent commission, Maria arranged to transfer their money undetected by US authorities, through what she called “a dirty banker”. In the space of a few days in January 1986, the Uruguayans slipped Maria nearly a million dollars in cash from the trunk of their car in a Pizza Hut parking lot. Maria was not her real name. She was Awilda Villafane, an undercover US Customs agent working with Bulas and Crumley, and Operation Greenback’s latest undercover operative. “We would tell her what to do,” Bulas explains.

Soon, del Pino and Sarmiento’s luck started to run out. They had $336,000 in cash and $465,000 in cashiers’ checks ripped from a safe during a raid in October 1985. Two days later, agents seized $1.2mn from the trunk of their Volkswagen Jetta. By then, “Maria” had laundered more than $17mn for the Uruguayans, while helping the government seize around $12mn. This earned Sarmiento an uncomfortable trip to Medellín to explain himself to Pablo Correa. Before Escobar had him murdered, the construction magnate was one of the cartel’s most ruthless drug traffickers. On his return to the US, Sarmiento warned Maria that if they lost any more money, the Colombians would “scrape us off the face of the earth”.

The raids continued, says Bulas.

“They were losing millions.”


In early February 1986, Villafane arrived at the Greenback headquarters with a cassette tape that made everyone sit up. A wiretap had recorded Sarmiento and del Pino complaining about their losses and fretting about Escobar sending someone from Medellín to see “what the hell was going on”. Luis Javier Castano-Ochoa (who is not related to the infamous Ochoa brothers, who co-founded the Medellín Cartel) was a lawyer and politician believed to be the cartel’s main financial adviser and frontman. “We were ecstatic because it was the first time we had someone who was really close to Escobar,” Bulas says. McDonald knew that capturing Castano-Ochoa would put a huge dent in the cartel’s operation. He decided to use “Maria” to lure him into a money-laundering sting. “I guess he trusted [her] very much,” Bulas recalls.

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There was rain in the wind on February 7 1986, as Villafane, dressed as Maria, swung into a Burger King parking lot near the airport. Her Colombian connection leaned into her window and said, “The dopers want to meet us.” When the man slipped into the restaurant to buy a Coke, Villafane had a seven-minute window to talk to Bulas through a concealed microphone. Castano-Ochoa was coming, she said. They should scramble a team. “There were a lot of us outside,” Bulas recalls.

In her rear-view mirror, Villafane watched a red Buick Regal pull into the lot. Rain was now beating on the roof of Bulas’s car as she watched two smartly dressed men step out of the Buick. The balding man with closely cropped hair on the sides was Castano-Ochoa, the other was his driver. Villafane followed the men into the Burger King. Inside, Castano-Ochoa found a table away from the other customers. “I am going to take your car,” he told Villafane flatly. “You give me the keys and we are going to have the merchandise put into the trunk.” Villafane realised that if the men discovered the recording equipment whirring under her front seat, she could be killed.

“You can’t take my car because it is registered to me,” she said quickly, and suggested switching to a rental car waiting nearby. Castano-Ochoa pondered for a second, then agreed. Listening to their conversation in her car, Bulas breathed a sigh of relief.

Another of Castano-Ochoa’s men accompanied Villafane to a nearby grocery store to pick up the rental car. He transferred a suitcase and a box from his trunk into hers and drove away. When Villafane delivered the luggage to the Greenback office, agents found it stuffed with $828,000 in cash — enough to warrant an arrest. Six days later, agents surprised Castano-Ochoa at a Holiday Inn and arrested him. In his possession was a briefcase full of documents revealing a cocaine operation involving 2,957kg and approximately $56mn — one of the largest ever smuggling rings discovered on US soil.

three women investigators posing next to a private jet
Lydia Bulas (right) and two colleagues from US Customs next to the aircraft they stopped on the runway in May 1983
Debbie Crumley (left) and Bulas (right) pose for fake mugshots
Awilda Villafane (top), Bulas (middle) and Crumley (bottom) counting money seized during the Ochoa/Sarmiento/del Pino case in late 1985/early 1986

Operation Greenback was now so successful that law enforcement agencies in 35 other US cities adopted its methods. “The best way to get [convictions] is through people ratting or squealing or informing,” explains Bagley, the money-laundering expert. Meanwhile, Isaac Kattan had spent hundreds of hours telling prosecutor Charles Blau exactly how the cartel laundered its cash. “He was probably one of the better teachers I’ve ever had,” Blau says. Those conversations, together with reports from Mike McDonald and Operation Greenback, formed the basis for the money laundering statutes passed into law by Congress in October 1986. Now that money laundering was a federal crime, the stage was set for Castano-Ochoa’s trial.

In May 1987, a court heard that Castano-Ochoa and the Medellín Cartel was responsible for the $6bn in unexplained cash flooding the US banking system. To illustrate his point, Prosecutor Gregorie showed the jury what $2.1mn in cash looked like. “We had to bring it up with the elevators and roll it into the courtroom,” he recalls. During the six-week trial, he introduced colourful witnesses, including the notorious drug trafficker and informant Max Mermelstein, who told the court that the papers found in Castano-Ochoa’s briefcase proved he “was in charge of the entire operation”.

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“We had a lot of evidence, so he was toast,” Bulas recalls. She had also convinced the Uruguayans to testify, despite Castano-Ochoa allegedly warning one of them: “I am going to bring your son’s head on a platter.” Sarmiento and del Pino’s evidence helped to send Castano-Ochoa to prison for 16 years. (The smugglers were released for time served and deported.)

Bulas, Crumley, McDonald and the Greenback team celebrated at a local bar with prosecutors. “For me, it was a major trial. This was a major, major player,” says Gregorie. Putting it another way, Catfish says: “The worst thing that happened to Ochoa was Lydia Bulas.” After US Marshals led the Colombian away to a federal US prison, his lawyer quietly approached Bulas, she recalls. “He told me that if I ever decide to leave the IRS he would hire me as an investigator,” she says. (Castano-Ochoa is now free and still involved in politics in Colombia. He could not be reached for comment.)

Bulas continued working with Operation Greenback until it ended in 1993, shortly after Colombian special forces shot and killed Pablo Escobar on a Medellín rooftop as he tried to flee. The destruction of his money-laundering scheme, along with undercover missions at home and abroad, contributed to the spectacular downfall of the Medellín Cartel. Bulas remembers the jubilation in the office when the news of his death broke, but she was in no mood to celebrate. “I was relieved,” she recalls. Bulas retired in 2002, long after the good old days of Operation Greenback were over, she says. After the September 11 attacks in the US, the war on drugs became the war on terror, and she felt there was too much red tape and paperwork. “I said, ‘screw this,’” she recalls. She went to work for McDonald in the private sector, advising foreign banks on how to abide by American laws. It gave her more time to spend with her family.

Bulas is 71 now and lives in Miami with her 42-year-old daughter, her son-in-law and their two-year-old son. When she hangs out with Crumley, they still call each other by their last names, as if Operation Greenback never ended. She even keeps a photograph of Escobar drenched in his own blood, as a memento of her life’s work. Before he was killed, the drug lord spent his final months on the run. At one point, he found himself freezing to death with his nine-year-old daughter in the mountains above Medellín. He looked for something to burn to keep her warm and reached for some sacks filled with $2mn in American greenbacks. In desperation, he lit a match and — poof — up it went.

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHY
Tania Franco Klein is a Mexico City-based photographer. For this article, FT Weekend Magazine invited Klein to create fictional scenes that reflect aspects of this article. These photographs do not contain individuals or locations featured in the story

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In the United States, Every World Cup Team Is a Home Team

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In the United States, Every World Cup Team Is a Home Team

It’s a tiny restaurant in the Little Morocco neighborhood of Queens. But throughout this World Cup, it has swelled with pride, song and beating drums as the Moroccan national team has pushed its way deep into soccer’s biggest international tournament.

It’s a scene that has been echoed across the United States — in a multitude of languages and colors, as soccer fans from all over the world, many now making their homes in America, have packed bars, restaurants, living rooms and concert venues.

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No matter where they came from or where they gathered, they all sought the same experience: a chance to watch their nations compete while surrounded by others who share passion and pride for the country they or their ancestors once called home.

Together, these fans have brought places throughout the United States to life.

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Bosnia vs Qatar

Bosnians Rejoice in St. Louis, Mo.

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Thousands of Bosnians settled in the St. Louis area during the 1990s, as war and genocide ripped their communities apart. The city is now home to more than 60,000 Bosnians, scores of whom gathered at Bevo Caffe Lounge on June 24 to watch Bosnia and Herzegovina play.

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This is only the second time the team has qualified for the World Cup — and the first time it has reached the knockout round. Its reward: Meeting one of the hosts, the United States, on Wednesday in Santa Clara, Calif.

Haiti vs Brazil

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In Miami, Little Haiti Comes to Life

More than 100,000 residents of Miami-Dade County, Fla., are of Haitian descent, and the Little Haiti neighborhood of Miami has long been their central hub.

During the World Cup, fans of Haiti’s team have flocked to the neighborhood, packing restaurants, bars and even parking lots to watch the action. Many have come wearing jerseys, while others simply dressed in the red and blue of the Haitian flag.

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Haiti ended up in a tough group, losing all of its matches, including a 3-0 defeat to Brazil on June 19. But for some fans, the fact that the team had qualified at all was its one victory. Before this year, Haiti had played in only one other World Cup, in 1974.

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Morocco

Moroccan Joy in Queens, N.Y.

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Todd Heisler/The New York Times

Touria Lamtahaf worked as a chef four years ago at a restaurant in Astoria, Queens, in the heart of an enclave on Steinway Avenue known as Little Morocco.

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After the Moroccan team upset Portugal in a World Cup quarterfinal, Ms. Lamtahaf remembers hundreds of Morocco fans surging onto Steinway Avenue, setting off flares and red smoke bombs to celebrate.

“It was a good memory for all of us,” she said. “We were very proud. You just needed something to be happy. After Covid, this was amazing.”

The neighborhood has long been a hub for immigrant communities from North African countries, including Egypt, and is also home to a large Greek community.

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Many settled in Astoria decades ago, drawn by low rents and a neighborhood that could feel calm compared with other bustling parts of New York. Ms. Lamtahaf, who moved to the United States in 2007, said that she originally lived in Ridgewood neighborhood of Queens, but word of mouth led her to Astoria, where she now runs her own restaurant.

The restaurant, Dar Lbahja, is just a few blocks from where she used to work. Ms. Lamtahaf said that when she opened it just over a year ago, she wanted to create a space where people could not just eat, but also gather to watch soccer, like she did growing up with her father in Morocco.

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“It was only one TV, and we had to watch with him,” Ms. Lamtahaf said. “So we grew up with the soccer.”

During this tournament, Morocco fans have packed into Dar Lbahja on game days, with many in Morocco’s red jersey, and others in the team’s white kit. They were rewarded with a berth in the knockout stages, and then again on Monday when their team won a tense matchup with the Netherlands in a penalty shootout.

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Fans took to the streets in jubilant celebration, just as they did in 2022.

Kacem Ettahali, 19, of Houston, is spending the summer in New York for an internship and watched the first Morocco game of the tournament on June 13 at the restaurant.

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After the team scored, Mr. Ettahali received a flurry of texts from his friends. “When they think of Morocco, they think of me,” he said.

He wasn’t the only Texan in the joint. Jori and Ahmed Lamghari traveled from the Dallas area because Ms. Lamghari, 43, wanted her husband to experience the city during the tournament. “I wanted him to get the New York World Cup vibe,” she said.

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Mr. Lamghari, 33, said that “Moroccans make their own ambience,” adding, “We want to live it.”

France vs Norway

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In Chicago, Hope for Another French Title

The French love a good outdoor drinking venue. For the country’s June 26 match against the rowing Norwegians, fans gathered on the outdoor patio of Soccer House in Chicago, a city whose deep French roots stretch back to the colonial days.

France is widely considered a tournament favorite, potentially giving its fans several more opportunities to celebrate.

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Argentina vs Austria

In Provo, Utah, Messi Mania Is a Family Affair

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Sporting the colors is intergenerational in Provo, Utah. Luis and Lidia Peve moved there 25 years ago, following a son who emigrated first, and decorated their home with small Argentina flags ahead of the team’s match against Austria on June 22.

As game time approached, about a dozen members of the family painted their faces with the sky blue and white of Argentina’s flag. Together, they sat around the TV with their eyes trained particularly on Lionel Messi, the team’s star, who is likely playing in his last World Cup.

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He finished the game with three goals — a hat trick — and a new generation of fans in the Peve household.

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D.R. Congo vs Colombia

In Silver Spring, Md., a Happy Return to the World Cup

Congolese fans in Silver Spring, Md., belted out their national anthem in a veterans hall, hands over their hearts, ahead of the country’s match against Colombia on June 23.

Refugee aid programs have resettled many Congolese families in the suburbs north of the nation’s capital, as their nation has been rived by war, unrest and now an Ebola outbreak.

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The Congolese side lost its match to Colombia on that day. But the team managed to advance out of the group stage for the first time in its history. Before this World Cup, the country had been to the tournament only once, in 1974, when it lost all of its matches.

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Portugal

A Block Party of Red and Green in Rhode Island

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The go-to drink special last weekend in East Providence, R.I., was a vodka cocktail called the CR7. And you’d be hard-pressed to find a resident of the region who didn’t know it was in honor of Cristiano Ronaldo, the 41-year-old Portuguese striker who is playing in his sixth — and likely last — World Cup, wearing his famous No. 7.

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The drink was served at the Portuguese restaurant O Dinis, a neighborhood staple. A large number of Portuguese immigrants settled in this corner of Rhode Island and nearby Massachusetts during the Industrial Revolution, finding work in the textile, whaling and manufacturing industries.

“Life is beautiful in Portugal,” said Natalia Paiva-Neves, who moved to the United States when she was 16 and now runs O Dinis, which was founded by her father. “But at the time, there was a lot of poverty, because there were no jobs, and there was no tourism. There was none of that stuff going on, so you had to find a means to provide for your family.”

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After pre-gaming over CR7s, along with beer, wine, meats and shrimp, some fans walked from O Dinis to a watch party that stretched for two blocks, from a screen in the parking lot of nearby Cafe Alma to Campino’s, another Portuguese restaurant.

“It’s just a great feeling,” said Kevin Matos, the cafe’s owner. “Everybody’s enjoying themselves. It doesn’t matter the result on the screen.”

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Some fans might not have agreed, though a scoreless draw sent both teams through to the knockout stage.

The block party, with hundreds of fans lining the streets, was in part the brainchild of East Providence’s mayor, Roberto DaSilva. “We had no idea that it’d be this many people showing up,” he said. “We thought we got a good crowd, but this is much more than than I ever expected.”

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Some had to stand on their tiptoes see the screens. Others packed into shops to sit down and watch the game, while others pulled out their phones as they stood in line to buy beer and snacks from food trucks and vendors.

Mexico vs South Korea

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A Backyard Party in a Texas Border Town

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Roughly four out of five residents in the Texas border town of Weslaco are of Mexican descent, making the country’s June 18 match in Guadalajara feel like a home game.

For a youth soccer team, it was a chance to watch their heroes take another step toward the knockout rounds.

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Under the night sky, they watched anxiously, breaking into dance after Mexico won.

Uruguay vs Spain

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Elimination Brings Anguish to Uruguay Fans in Miami

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Uruguay needed this one. The nation that hosted the first World Cup in 1930, winning the tournament that year and again in 1950, was on the brink of elimination last week against Spain — considered one of the strongest teams in the tournament.

Fans at Doña Paulina, a Uruguayan restaurant in Miami, anxiously watched their team fight for a chance to stay in the competition.

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It wasn’t to be. Spain emerged victorious, 1-0.

Japan vs Tunisia

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In San Diego, Fans Cheer the Samurai Blue

Their team is called the Samurai Blue, and the many Japanese fans living in Southern California — a diaspora that first settled there in the late 19th century as farmers and fishermen, and endured harsh incarceration during World War II — made their blue kits prominent as the team played its way through a so-called group of death.

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They eventually earned a second-place finish to reach the round of 32. The result was a Monday matchup with Brazil, in which Japan fell 2-1.

Iran

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In Los Angeles, Mixed Feelings About the Iranian Team

For Americans from Iran, supporting the Iranian national team has been a thorny issue.

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Some have refused to even watch the matches. To them, the team feels like an extension of the government, whose persecution drove many to flee the country. It’s especially difficult as their new home, the United States, and their old home are at war.

“That’s a little conflict for me,” said Roozbeh Farahanipour, who helped lead an Iranian student uprising in 1999 and fled the country the following year, seeking political asylum in America. “I am a little different from other fans, because no way I can cheer or stand for either Islamic Republic of Iran’s national anthem, nor for the flags.”

He added, “I am American now. My flag is the U.S. flag.”

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Others of Iranian descent have eagerly backed the national team and bristled at its travails, especially in Southern California, which was host to the team’s first match and is home to the largest diaspora of Iranians outside Iran. Many live, shop and eat in the Westwood area of Los Angeles, where an enclave has become known as Tehrangeles, after the Iranian capital.

Still, compared with those of other diasporas, gatherings to back the Iranian team have seemed smaller and more muted. Only a handful of fans gathered at Attari Sandwich Shop, a Persian eatery in the heart of Tehrangeles, during Iran’s June 21 match against Belgium at SoFi Stadium in nearby Inglewood, Calif.

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Inside the restaurant, some fans anxiously watched the game over kebab plates and pastries. Others outside proudly waved their flags on the neighborhood thoroughfare, Westwood Boulevard.

Bijan Bahmani, who lives in Los Angeles, took his 2-year-old son to Iran’s match against New Zealand on June 15 in Inglewood with his father-in-law. While he opposes the Iranian regime and hopes for democracy one day, Mr. Bahmani said he still wanted to cheer to the national team.

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“It’s complicated, because we have feelings a lot of different ways, with the complicated politics,” said Mr. Bahmani, 41, who moved to the United States in 2001. “I am definitely rooting for Iran because they represent Iran, not the government.”

Even as he took in the game with this family, Mr. Bahmani said the war was on his mind.

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“I hope this peace lasts,” he said, referring to the current fragile cease-fire. “Every day, we’re worried.”

Cape Verde vs Saudi Arabia

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Celebrating the Small but Mighty in New Bedford, Mass.

Every tournament has a surprise underdog. This year, it’s Cape Verde, a small island nation off the western coast of Africa. Its team had an opportunity on Friday to become the smallest country by population ever to advance to a World Cup knockout round.

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The pivotal match drew people of Cape Verdean descent to a veterans hall in New Bedford, Mass., about an hour drive south of Boston. Like Portugal and Brazil, whaling and related industries brought a sizable population of immigrants from Cape Verde to southeastern New England.

A scoreless tie with Saudi Arabia was all it took for tears and roars to erupt in the veterans hall. Their team would keep playing, for at least one more game.

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Brazil vs Haiti

A Brazilian Dance Party Near Boston

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Massachusetts has a long history of Portuguese-speaking settlers, making Brazilians feel welcome in the Boston area. That’s especially the case in the southwest suburb of Framingham, Mass., where the Brazilian-born population rivals that of Boston.

They packed into Tropical Cafe, a Brazilian restaurant in Framingham, gathering around hightop tables as their team played Haiti on June 19. After Brazil secured a 3-0 win, fans made the restaurant an impromptu dance club to celebrate.

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Germany vs Curaçao

In Texas, German Fans Root, and Eat, to Honor a Neighbor

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Bratwurst and steins of beer accompanied the match at Bavarian Grill in Plano, Texas, a Dallas suburb, as Germany played Curaçao in Houston on June 14. But perhaps the city’s most important fan of the German team was not there.

Jürgen Mahneke, who was born in Braunschweig, Germany, immigrated to the United States in 1984, and worked in hotels across the country before settling in Plano.

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He opened the restaurant in 1993, and died at age 67 on June 10, a day before the World Cup began.

His restaurant went on with the planned festivities. One of the managers said Mr. Mahneke would have wanted them to. His team won its opener, 7-1, but went home on Monday, falling to Paraguay in a heartbreaking penalty shootout — the opposite of Morocco’s elating win hours later.

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What the Supreme Court did on the final day of its term

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What the Supreme Court did on the final day of its term

The U.S. Supreme Court

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The Supreme Court Tuesday upheld the long-established right of children born on U.S. soil to automatic American citizenship, regardless of their parents’ immigration status. In so doing, the court rejected President Trump’s most aggressive attempt to limit immigration in the United States.

Writing for the court majority, Chief Justice John Roberts traced birthright citizenship back to the founding of the nation. Just as the colonists demanded “the rights of Englishmen” more than 250 years ago, he said, Congress, after the Civil War, amended the Constitution to specify automatic citizenship for any child born on U.S. soil.

“Citizenship then and now was the right to have rights”—and the framers of the 14th amendment extended that promise to every free born person in this land. He concluded: “We keep that promise today.”

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The vote was 6-to-3, depending on how you count it. Altogether, five justices signed on to the Roberts’ majority opinion. A sixth, Justice Brett Kavanaugh, agreed only that federal legislation enacted in the 1950s grants automatic citizenship for children born in the U.S.

Justice Clarence Thomas wrote the lead dissent, a 91-page opus that agreed with Trump’s assertion that the 14th amendment only applied to former slaves and their descendants. The Thomas dissent added ominously that he “was not sure that “today’s opinion will stand the test of time.” The dissent was joined by Justice Neil Gorsuch, with Justice Samuel Alito writing a separate dissent.

Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson, who, like Thomas is African American, responded to some of the themes in the Thomas dissent.

“Despite his longstanding endorsement of a colorblind society,” she wrote, “Justice Thomas now surprisingly suggests that the citizenship clause was a race-conscious remedial measure relating only to freed slaves.”

Cecillia Wang, legal director of the ACLU, who successfully argued the case at the Supreme Court, said President’s Trump failed attempt to limit birthright citizenship was transparent.

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Rep. Tom Kean returns to Congress, says depression is why he went missing for months

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Rep. Tom Kean returns to Congress, says depression is why he went missing for months

Rep. Thomas Kean Jr., R-N.J., arrives at the U.S. Capitol with his wife Rhonda Kean on June 30.

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New Jersey Republican Thomas Kean Jr. said it was struggles with depression that kept him away from Congress for nearly four months with no explanation to his constituents.

Kean last voted on March 5th, missing numerous votes and other appearances on Capitol Hill since. In April, House Speaker Mike Johnson told reporters he had spoken to Kean and that he was dealing with an undisclosed medical issue. Kean was not spotted until recently at his New Jersey home.

Speaking from the House floor on Tuesday, the second term lawmaker said he had checked into a hospital for testing several months ago after health concerns, and was subsequently diagnosed with depression.

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“Talking about myself has never come naturally,” Kean said. “But I believe that I owe an explanation to the people of New Jersey’s seventh district, to my colleagues in this chamber and to the American people for my absence.”

Kean said he originally did not think his diagnosis would result in a long-term absence. Doctors recommended he remain in the hospital to address the illness, and it was his fastest route to recovery, he said.

“It is physical. It is emotional,” he said. “And until you experience it yourself, it is difficult to fully understand how powerful this illness could be.”

Kean said he miscalculated how long he would be away, estimating it would be a matter of weeks. However, he said like the roughly 48 million Americans who have battled the illness, he learned there is no timeline for recovery.

“I am grateful that I accepted help,” Kean said. “Today I stand before you healthier, stronger and excited to return to the work that I love.”

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Kean’s absence proved a struggle for House Republicans, who contend with a razor thin majority to pass party priorities. For weeks, Kean and his office declined to share additional details on why he was away, feeding rumors and speculation and raising interest in a member known for his privacy.

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