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'House of the Dragon' Season 2, Episode 6: A blind date goes down in flames

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'House of the Dragon' Season 2, Episode 6: A blind date goes down in flames

Aemond (Ewan Mitchell) tends to his ailing brother Aegon (Tom Glynn-Carney) like a real Florence Turkeyvulture.

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This is a recap of the most recent episode of HBO’s House of the Dragon. It contains spoilers. That’s what a recap is.

Credits! And the “Die, You!” Tapestry gets a teensy bit longer. There’s the burnt, broken bodies of soldiers on the field of Rook’s Rest, and there the two fallen dragons, Meleys and Sunfyre (who’s conceivably just resting his eyes, guys! He’s just out for the season, I tells ya!) staining the canvas with their black blood. Figured we would have gotten these additions last week, but you can’t rush craftsmanship. Plus, that Team Black blockade must have emptied the shelves of the King’s Landing So-Fro Fabrics.

In the Westerlands, Ser Jason Lannister (oafish brother of his twin brother Tyland Lannister, the squirrelliest member of Team Green’s Small Council) is marching east from Casterly Rock and is about to cross over into the Riverlands to confront Daemon at Harrenhal. Before he does so, he and his growing Green army stop into the Golden Tooth, seat of House Lefford, a wealthy Westerlands family faithful to the Lannisters.

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The lord of the Golden Tooth reluctantly agrees to temporarily garrison the Green army, and eyes its cages of actual lions nervously. (Are these beasts part of the Lannister infantry, or are they more like football mascots? During battles, do they just sort of run along the sidelines and make the cheerleaders uncomfortable?)

Before he avails himself of the Golden Tooth’s day-spa facilities, Ser Jason sends a raven to King’s Landing. The message instructs Aemond to meet him there on Vhagar, so the Prince Regent can protect the Lannister army when they march on Harrenhal, where Daemon is still cooling his heels and tripping on goof-juice.

Everybody hates Aemond

Cut to King’s Landing, where Aemond predictably reacts to Ser Jason’s demand by being hella outraged at it; his usual cool, sneering demeanor cracks and decays into the whiny fulminating of his brother Aegon. (This is another example of the show’s fondness for narrative parallels – Rhaenyra and Alicent, sure, but also Aemond and Daemon, whom in this episode will similarly break, and abandon his default snootiness.)

Aemond tells the council that he will reach out to the Triarchy – you’ll recall them from season one. They’re the three Free Cities (Myr, Lys and Tyrosh, if you’re taking notes for the final) that lie across the Narrow Sea from Westeros. It was the navies of the Triarchy that Daemon and Corlys battled for control of the Stepstones. (Remember the Crabfeeder? The putatively badass admiral who went down like a chump when Daemon took him out offscreen? That.)

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The council doesn’t love the idea – the Triarchy are mercenaries and not to be trusted. But Aemond thinks he’s only being practical: After all, the Blacks’ blockade of the bay needs to be broken. Yes, the Lannisters are building an army, but they’re still a long way away. And yes, the Lannisters and the Hightowers have fleets of ships, but it will take them months to arrive. Meanwhile, the Triarchy’s navies are very near, and could set to work weakening the blockade immediately.

We get a mention of the Greyjoys of the Iron Islands – but evidently they’ve not declared for either side just yet. Aemond tells Criston Cole to set out for Harrenhal immediately: His army will attack Daemon at Harrenhal from the East, the Lannister army from the West. (Classic temporal pincer movement!)

Aemond keeps Alicent behind and wastes no time making his Small Council that much smaller by dismissing her from it. Alicent reaches out to cradle his face and lovingly stroke his scar – it’s not clear whether this is just a cynical gambit she’s busting out to convince him to let her stay, or if somehow the mother in her truly sees him, and registers how the wounds of his childhood haven’t healed. (Olivia Cooke, bless her, finds a way to play both versions at once.) This moment of mother-son tenderness is another parallel with Daemon, who also shared an intimate exchange with his mother last episode. (That exchange between Daemon and his mother, however, was messier. Literally and figuratively.)

Alicent (Olivia Cooke) and Aemond (Ewan Mitchell).

Alicent (Olivia Cooke) inspects her son Aemond’s (Ewan Mitchell) eye-sapphire for cut, clarity, color and carat.

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“You’ll love him. He’s got a great personality.”

On Dragonstone, Rhaenyra’s own council has once again gathered around the Painted (But Not Actually Painted, Technically Glowing) Table. Corlys has accepted the position of Hand of the Queen without a fuss. She summons Ser Steffon Darklyn, leader of her Queensguard. Y’all remember him – he’s the son of Ser Gunthor Darklyn, whose head Criston Cole lopped off at Duskendale back in episode 4. He’s also the guy who accompanied Rhaenyra on Operation: Two Queens Stand Before Me, when she somehow managed to skulk incognito into King’s Landing to meet with Alicent.

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She tells him of her current plan. Let’s call it Operation: Have I Got A Guy For You, which consists of trying to match riders to the riderless dragons hanging on and around Dragonstone. She tells him she’s been down to the Dragonstone Records Department in the basement of the library, poring over the microfiche, and she’s learned that his grandmother’s grandmother was a Targaryen princess. So … maybe?

Her council scoffs at this, and points out to her that she’s grabbing at some pretty thin genetic straws. The noisiest dissenter, now that surly ol’ Ser Alfred Broome has been sent away, is the excellently named Ser Bartimos Celtigar of Claw Isle. Rhaenyra then reads Ser Steffon a memo from Trish in Legal, informing him that attempting to bond with a dragon could result in injury or death for which RhaenyraCorp and its subsidiaries cannot be held responsible. He agrees.

And it’s a good thing he signed the waiver, because injury and death are exactly what occur.

Rhaenyra (Emma D'Arcy).

Rhaenyra (Emma D’Arcy) is a badass. That’s it. That’s the caption.

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At the Dragondock, the dragonkeepers go all Benedictine monks of Santo Domingo de Silos and summon the dragon Seasmoke. This was Laenor Velaryon’s dragon, but you’ll remember that Laenor faked his death last season and scarpered off to the Summer Isles to open a clothing-optional men’s resort with Ser Qarl. (No, it’s not canon, but let me have this.)

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The blind date seems to be going well, at first. But then something happens. Maybe, in their telepathic bond, Ser Steffon made a racist joke or treated the server rudely or told Seasmoke he really needs to read Jordan Peterson. Whatever the reason, no love connection gets made, and Seasmoke summarily smokes both Ser Steffon and an unnamed dragonkeeper. Later, a preening Ser Bartimos attempts to serve Rhaenyra a steaming pot of Told You So, but she slaps him for forgetting his place. Which: Yes. More slapping! All these old white dudes could use a palm across the kisser!

Rhaenyra is brooding on the Dragonstone ramparts when Jacaerys joins her and tells her not to fret about Ser Steffon Cracklyn, er, Darklyn. You can’t make a dragonrider without breaking (and scrambling, and blowtorching) a few knights, after all. Also, kudos for throwing hands at the old dude. Rhaenyra isn’t ready to hear that, she’s restless; she wants to fight, and is tired of everyone condescending to her. Jacaerys tells her that even if she led their army herself, she’s not enough, they need Daemon and his dragon.

Alys is through the looking glass here, people

At Harrenhal, Daemon dreams, or is haunted, or is tripping. The why doesn’t matter, the what very much does. And the what is question is Daemon reliving the moment his brother King Viserys (Paddy Considine, you! Have! Been! Missed!) told him he’d named Rhaenyra as his heir and angrily exiled Daemon to the Vale.

He wakes/comes to/returns to reality to find himself threatening poor Ser Simon Strong, accusing him of causing his looney-tunishness, and of being in league with the Hightowers, or Ser Larys or even Rhaenyra herself. “And stop watching me!” he shouts, resulting in a low-key hilarious reaction shot wherein Ser Simon busies himself inspecting Harrenhal’s moldering, guano covered floors, walls, and ceilings.

Smith, too, is very funny in this scene, playing a man convinced he’s coming off cool and threatening but actually looking to all the world like a paranoid Wall Street bro coming down from a three-day coke bender.

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He sets out to leave, but on the way to mount Caraxes he meets Alys Rivers in the courtyard by Harrenhal’s weirwood tree. Daemon lashes out, but Alys doesn’t rise to the bait and remains her cryptic, spooky-ooky self, though she adds some therapy-speak to the mix this time, admonishing him about his anger issues, and how his desperate striving for the crown makes him less worthy of it. She goes so full-bore Dr. Melfi, in fact, that Daemon can’t help but go Tony Soprano to match her – he asks for her advice on dealing wit dese gagootz Riverlords.

She tells him he needs House Tully to control the Riverlands; he reminds her that its Lord, Grover Tully, still clings to life. She tells him to hang on a sec, she’s gonna get riiiiight on that.

Alys Rivers (Gayle Rankin).

The owls, like Alys Rivers (Gayle Rankin), are not what they seem.

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On Driftmark, Corlys Velaryon’s ship, which has been getting repaired in drydock all season long, is finally ready. He asks/orders Alyn to be his first mate. Alyn agrees, reluctantly. Later, he and his brother Addam bicker over their status as Corlys’ kids. Addam shaves his head so no one can see his platinum-blond hair and consider him a nepo baby, while Alyn would be only too happy to get some love – emotional and fiduciary – from Papa Seasnake.

What’s it all about, Ulfie?

In a tavern in King’s Landing, Ulf is bellying up to a meager meal, and bellyaching about it. Evidently it’s been weeks since anyone’s had anything but fish (put a pin in that, it’ll come back later). A woman at the next table complains, a bit too loudly and clearly, that the smallfolk are starving while the royal family feasts on roasted meat. She’s a Mysaria plant, and she’s selling the part. Ulf seems fittingly – and exploitably – annoyed.

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Later, when he sees a cart of sheep being hauled to the Dragonpit to keep Team Green’s dragons fat and happy – or whatever passes for happy, to a dragon – his mood sours further.

That night, a small fleet of boats bearing fresh produce and meats and cheeses sails onto the beach around King’s Landing, bearing Rhaenyra’s sigil.

And just in time. At the now very-small-indeed Small Council, Larys warns of unrest in the city, which Aemond dismisses. He also rebuffs Larys’ transparent bid to be named the King’s Hand, and tells him to summon Otto Hightower back to King’s Landing, so he can resume the title.

Larys’ expression makes it clear that Aemond has made himself a powerful, albeit slimy, enemy this day.

The Grandmaester enters and announces that Aegon will recover. The Small Council looks worriedly at Aemond, who says “What happy news,” in a tone that expresses the concept of happiness in precisely the same way that Todd Solondz did in 1998.

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He goes to a wheezing Aegon’s bedside and checks to see how much of the battle the king remembers. Aegon, in an uncharacteristically smart move, pretends to recall nothing at all, earning himself another day.

The good mother. Good, not great.

Alicent, meanwhile, is on the second stop of her whirlwind “Seeing What It Feels Like to be an Actual Mother” tour. She sits at Aegon’s bedside. Grandmaester Orwyle enters and tells her that they don’t know where her father Otto Hightower is, but not to worry overmuch, as the war may be preventing effective communication. House Beesbury is warring with House Hightower – evidently faithful ol’ Lord Lyman Beesbury’s descendants have been informed that Criston Cole straight-up murdered him last season and have switched sides. How fickle.

Next stop: The courtyard of the Red Keep, where Criston Cole and Alicent’s brother Gwayne are preparing to head out for Harrenhal. She asks Gwayne about her youngest son Daeron, who was sent away to Oldtown while still young. He’s sixteen now, he tells her, and smart and strong and kind. That last word brings her up short, because it makes such a powerful and damning case for “nurture” over “nature.” Gwayne tries to reassure her that she’s a good mother, it’s just that she raised her other kids in the Red Keep, and that’s why they’re the way they are. To her credit, she doesn’t for a moment believe this.

Alicent (Olivia Cooke) and brother Gwayne (Freddie Fox).

Alicent (Olivia Cooke) asks her brother Gwayne (Freddie Fox) how she can bring out her ginger highlights like he does.

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Final stop: Helaena’s room. Helaena’s keeping what look like crickets in tiny cages. She comments that “This one stopped singing,” and yeah I don’t know what it means either but everything Helaena says means something so I’m writing it down to refer back to later. Alicent invites her daughter to join her in a trip outside the Red Keep to the Grand Sept, so they can light candles for Aegon, among others.

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Hugh the Blacksmith is stomping through the streets when he’s surrounded by streams of people carrying the food that Rhaenyra’s just DoorDashed to the city. He rips a grocery bag full of cabbages out of the arms of some poor schmoe and takes it for himself. He heads home just as the excited crowd grows into a riot.

A riot that, as it happens, surrounds the very same Grand Sept that Alicent and Helaena are praying in. The Kingsguard attempt to escort them to safety, but their carriage is a considerable distance away, and lots of things go south as they make for it. The crowd hurls both seafood and insults at them (“There’s the Queen of Fishes!” one dude shouts just as he whips a cod in Alicent’s face). (That’s what that earlier line about fish was setting up.) They get separated briefly, and when one hapless citizen grabs Alicent, her guard lops off the guy’s arm. Eventually they make it their carriage, a bit banged up – though the guard who did the arm-chopping gets swarmed by the crowd and left for dead, as cries of “Long live Queen Rhaenyra!” echo in the streets. The people know what side their bread is buttered on, not to mention who sent them the bread and butter. And cabbages. So many cabbages.

Larys (Matthew Needham) at Aegon (Tom Glynn-Carney)'s bedside.

Larys (Matthew Needham) tells Aegon (Tom Glynn-Carney) that his plans are gaining traction.

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In the Red Keep, Lord Larys sits at a suffering Aegon’s bedside and delivers a nifty little “We’re not so different, you and I” speech, to Aegon’s growing horror. Larys basically tells him that people will pity him, and underestimate him, which he can use to his advantage. He also tells him that Aemond will try to kill him – something that (as Tom Glynn-Carney’s performance makes abundantly clear) Aegon has already figured out.

Cut to: What I hope will be the final leg of Daemon’s Long Strange Harrenhal Acid Trip. He’s flashing back again, comforting Viserys as the king weeps over the body of his beloved first wife Aemma. You remember Aemma, don’t you? From the very first episode of season one? The woman he told the Maesters to let die in childbirth, so they could try to save the child? Only to have both mother and child die? That Aemma? (Imagine a world where the life of the mother gets weighed against the life of a child! What a rich escapist fantasy universe this is!)

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Daemon awakes, and Ser Simon Strong informs him that Grover Tully has finally died – despite the best efforts of their healer, Alys Strong. Daemon smiles, realizing that Alys did, in fact, get right on that.

In Soviet Westeros, Pokemon choose you!

In the Vale, Rhaena complains about her lot in life to young Joffrey (no, not that one) as they wander the hillside. She tells him she’s resigned to being his and his half-brothers’ babysitter, even though she wanted something more. Just then they find a burnt patch of grass littered with sheep bones – a telltale sign of a dragon.

She confronts Lady Jayne about it, who admits that there have been sightings of a large and formidable wild dragon recently. She also informs Rhaena that Prince of Pentos has agreed to host Li’l Joffrey, Li’l Viserys and Li’l Aegon the Baeby, along with Rhaena herself, to protect them during the war. But Rhaena, of course, being dragonless herself, is focused on that first part.

Rhaena (Phoebe Campbell).

Rhaena (Phoebe Campbell) cosplays as the Wicked Witch of the West, immediately post water bucket.

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On Driftmark, Addam is minding his own business doing random fisherman stuff when Seasmoke buzzes him and all the other folks on the beach. Addam runs into the trees, just like Criston Cole did in episode 3. But while that tactic worked for Criston, because that dragon had a rider with orders not to engage, Seasmoke is his own beast, and he is determined. He finds Addam, and stares him down. Addams stares back. At this moment Theme from A Summer Place does not start playing on the soundtrack, which is something of a missed opportunity, I feel.

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Another parallel: On Dragonstone, Rhaenyra and Mysaria … how to put this? They share a romantic embrace. They … rent a figurative U-Haul. They bring each other to the potluck, as it were. They get a dog and tie a bandana around its neck. They open a Vietnamese restaurant called It’s a Pho. They visit Lesbos, which may or not be one of the Rizzolian Isles, I was never really clear on that. You know what I mean.

The moment is interrupted when Rhaenyra is informed that Seasmoke has found a rider. (“Join the club,” she does not reply; still another missed opportunity.) She assumes it must be a Team Green rider, and decides she’s had enough of being coddled and protected. She mounts her dragon Syrax, and takes to the sky.

Parting Thoughts

  • Does it seem like too much of a coincidence that after years as a happy-go-lucky free-agent, Seasmoke should suddenly decide to bond with Addam at the precise moment Team Black starts recruiting dragonriders? If it bothers you, let me suggest that it’s not a case of coincidence at all, but of cause-and-effect. Rhaenyra tried to force a bond between Seasmoke and Ser Steffon, which Seasmoke rejected – but the very act of doing so gave ol’ Smokey a pang of nostalgia, and he decided to put himself back out there. He got back on the apps, and found Addam, and now those two crazy kids have a great story to tell about their first date. 
  • (NOTE: This does not explain what’s going on with the as-yet-unseen dragon in the Vale, who may or may not (but let’s face it, probably will) bond with Rhaena in an upcoming episode. Maybe dragons possess a hivemind, or at least a kind of reptilian-forebrain groupchat, and once Seasmoke started feeling the itch to bond with a human again, the rest of them suddenly began updating their Tinder profiles, too?)
  • Oh good lord I think we’re finally done with Daemon’s extended pre-electric kool-aid acid test. As great as it was to see Milly Alcock and Paddy Considine again, hoo boy that whole interlude just went on and on. It did give us Alys Rivers, though, and Ser Simon Strong, about whose ultimate fate I’m starting to worry. It also gave Daemon the kind of emotional breakdown that Matt Smith had a lot of fun splashing around in.
  • (Speaking of: What are we to make of the fact that Daemon’s (let’s all hope) final dream-vision showed him expressing something besides his default disdain/denial/arrogance/vindictiveness? In that last moment with Viserys, he showed sincere regret and compassion – two entirely un-Daemonic traits.)
  • That moment when the dragonkeeper goes up in flames and immediately cuts his own throat? Badass. A while back, the producers hinted that those dragonglass daggers we see every dragonkeeper carrying at all times have a specific purpose. There it is: Dragonfire can’t melt dragonglass. How practical!
  • Second mention of Daeron! He exists, and he’s already getting some characterization, even though he probably won’t show up this season! 
  • So you’re telling me those boats loaded down with food (so many cabbages!) made it all the way from Dragonstone to King’s Landing without seagulls gobbling them all up? Talk about a rich fantasy world: I once saw a seagull on Rehoboth Beach scarf down an entire tray of curly fries in the two seconds it took a dude to check his phone.

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How having zero points in tennis — or ‘love’ — came to sound so sweet

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How having zero points in tennis — or ‘love’ — came to sound so sweet

The scoreboard shows the results of the women’s singles final match between Iga Swiatek of Poland and Amanda Anisimova of the U.S. at the Wimbledon Tennis Championships in London, Saturday, July 12, 2025.

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Fifteen points in tennis? Nice. Thirty, 40 — even better. Advantage — that sounds good. “Love” — that also must be great, right? Well, not quite.

As the French Open rolls on and Serena Williams has announced her return to the sport, maybe you’ve been paying a little more attention to tennis. The sport’s scoring system is notably distinct, and can sometimes be hard to grasp for newcomers. But even tennis aficionados might not know why, or how, “love” became the unmistakable callout for zero points. For this installment of NPR’s Word of the Week, we’re exploring how a word that signifies trailing behind got such a sweet name.

“Love” comes from the heart — or an egg?

It’s hard to pinpoint when the first tennis ball went over the net. Tennis is a derivative of lots of other sports, such as “jeu de paume,” a handball game played in France, said JT Buzanga, the collections manager at the International Tennis Hall of Fame museum.

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But tennis became a patented, official sport in 1874, said Steve Flink, a journalist whose tennis coverage got him inducted into the International Tennis Hall of Fame. It has retained its unique, mysterious scoring system ever since.

“By and large, the original system has held up almost entirely,” Flink said.

The use of “love” goes back to the late 18th century, said Jesse Sheidlower, a lexicographer. But it was used earlier than that in card games such as whist and bridge. Before the term made its way to tennis, the sport favored plain old “nothing,” or “nil,” he said.

Why love in the first place, though? Historians don’t really know for sure, but there are a few theories.

The French could have something to do with it. Some historians believe “love” derives from “l’oeuf,” which means “the egg” in French. Because eggs are shaped like zeros, terms such as “goose egg” and “duck’s egg” have been used in other contexts to mean zero, Sheidlower said.

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It’s also possible English speakers mispronounced l’oeuf as “love.” But Sheidlower isn’t convinced that’s the answer.

“It’s the French equivalent of an English expression. But since that expression doesn’t appear in French, the French word wouldn’t have been used,” he said.

To be sure, France has had a lot of influence on tennis culture, Buzanga said. For example, “deuce” or a game tied at 40 points, comes from the French word for “two”: “deux.” But he prefers another prominent theory: that “love” comes from the idiom “for the love of the game.” Even if a player hasn’t scored, it doesn’t matter, because their heart is in it. It’s the theory Sheidlower said is the most plausible, because the idiom was used by the English before tennis was popularized.

Another variation of the “love of the game” theory is that the word could have come from the Dutch “lof,” or “honor” — or the Latin “amare,” meaning “to love,” Flink said.

But if tennis’ “love” doesn’t come from a French word, the theory at least has a French sensibility.

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“I think the ‘for the love of the game’ is kind of romantic,” Buzanga said.

“Love” probably isn’t going anywhere

Tennis used to be a sport of leisure. The style of play has changed a lot over the years; players are more athletic and competitive, for instance, Flink said. But the rules of the sport are more steadfast, he said.

“There’s this incredible, enduring respect for tradition in tennis,” he said. “Changes are not made easily.”

There has been one major change in modern history: the tie-break. Matches can go on and on because players have to score two consecutive points to break a deuce, or by two games to break a tied set. But the onset of television meant matches would have to get shorter if the sport wanted to capture a larger audience, Flink said.

Change even came for “love.” An alternative sprouted up in the 1970s, and is still used today: “bagel,” named for its zero shape, Sheidlower said. Novices may say “zero,” and insiders will understand what they mean, but they “will needle them about it,” Flink said.

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But “love” still prevails.

“People kind of like it,” Flink said. “It’s different. Why say zero when you can say love?”

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With Highway 1 open, Big Sur braces for its busiest summer in years

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With Highway 1 open, Big Sur braces for its busiest summer in years

On a 75-mile cliff-hugging stretch of highway in California, traffic is way up, despite soaring gas prices. And locals expect the busiest summer in years.

The road is Highway 1 in Big Sur, which reopened in January after three years of repair and reconstruction following a pair of landslides. Drivers can once again embark on the state’s most famous road trip, covering the 100 miles between Cambria to the south and Carmel to the north without leaving the two-lane coastal highway. And they’re heading out in big numbers.

Caltrans estimates that as of May, Big Sur restaurant and retailer guest counts are up 40% from last year, and that northbound traffic at Ragged Point, the southern gateway to Big Sur, has risen 900% year-over-year.

People pose for photos near Bixby Bridge. Monterey County’s Board of Supervisors voted to explore a 12-month ban on parking around the bridge.

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Safety cones prevent parking along Coast Road near the Bixby Bridge.

Safety cones prevent parking along Coast Road near the Bixby Bridge.

“Take your time,” said Kirk Gafill, co-owner of the popular Nepenthe restaurant and president of the Big Sur Chamber of Commerce, offering advice to travelers. “You’re going to be sharing the road with a number of people.”

As travelers rediscover the road, the cost of driving has been shooting skyward. California’s average gas price ($6.11 per gallon as of May 26) is up 26% from the year before. In early April, rates hit $9.99 at the isolated gas station in the Big Sur community of Gorda.

For spring and summer travelers, these numbers would seem to pose a stark question: Stay home and save money, or head for the coast because the road is finally open and it’s still cheaper than flying?

So far, the latter answer is winning big.

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Fog lingers off the coast of Highway 1.

Fog lingers off the coast of Highway 1.

“We are definitely seeing a huge uptick in our reservations,” said Megan Handy, assistant general manager at the upscale Treebones resort. She estimated that bookings are 30% or more ahead of last year, and rates are unchanged since then. But “it’s still not feeling super crowded, which is nice. Everything still feels kind of calm.”

But added traffic has raised some anxiety. On May 19, Monterey County’s Board of Supervisors voted to explore a 12-month ban on parking at Bixby Bridge, one of the region’s top photo spots.

Over the years, the number of cars parking near the bridge — often illegally, sometimes impeding emergency vehicles — has risen. The proposed parking moratorium won’t take effect until the supervisors discuss it further.

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Busy as things are, several business owners pointed out that many international travelers have not yet returned — perhaps because most make their plans more than six months ahead, perhaps because of global politics, perhaps a little of each.

The biggest challenge for businesses during this resurgence? “Restaffing and retaining,” said Handy at Treetops.

At Nepenthe, Gafill said his business has seen a 45% boost in guest volume since the road’s reopening. Gafill said he would have expected a 35% pickup, “simply by virtue of reopening the highway.” The additional 10%, he said, might be “all that pent-up demand,” aided by “a very beautiful and very dry winter,” followed by a mild spring.

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A lunch crowd dines at popular restaurant Nepenthe.

A lunch crowd dines at popular restaurant Nepenthe.

Another possible factor: Nobody can be sure how long the road will remain open.

To cope with the influx of people, Gafill said, “everybody is trying to recruit and retain their existing staff.”

At the Ragged Point Inn, where rates dropped as low as $149 nightly last fall, rates are back over $200 and staffers are suggesting that customers book at least six months ahead. The inn has reopened its snack bar for the first time since early 2023, and management is investing in capital upgrades and staging live music on weekends throughout the summer.

Business “is up over 100%,” said Diane Ramey, whose family owns the inn. “I know not all of our neighbors are having the same lift, but everybody is doing better.”

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Traffic approaching Bixby Bridge.

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A visitor poses in an oversized chair at Big Sur River Inn.

A visitor poses in an oversized chair at Big Sur River Inn.

Even at the New Camaldoli Hermitage, a Benedictine monastery above Lucia, the road’s reopening and coming summer season have made a difference. Bookings are up an estimated 30% at the hermitage, which rent rooms and cottages (for two nights or more) to visitors who agree to its requirement of silence.

Big Sur business owners advise visitors to travel on weekdays for less traffic and the best hotel rates, and to get on the road as early as possible.

Since its opening in 1937, the highway has been vulnerable to landslides and shifting ground, operating on a longstanding cycle of landslide, closure, repair, reopening and then another landslide, or sometimes a fire. The U.S. Geological Survey has identified the Big Sur coastline as one of the most landslide-prone areas in the western United States. The 2023-2026 closure was the longest in the highway’s history.

Over time, road crews have used increasingly sophisticated strategies. In the most recent efforts, Caltrans said, it used drones to help survey the slopes and remotely operated bulldozers and excavators to reduce risks to workers.

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During the closure, no traffic was allowed on 6.8-mile span from just north of Lucia until about a mile south of the Esalen Institute. Drivers detoured inland by way of U.S. 101.

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Firings at CBS’ ’60 Minutes’ reflect the fight for media control in the age of Trump

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Firings at CBS’ ’60 Minutes’ reflect the fight for media control in the age of Trump

Correspondents of CBS’ 60 Minutes pose for a portrait in 2023. From left to right, they are Sharyn Alfonsi, L. Jon Wertheim, Bill Whitaker, Lesley Stahl, Scott Pelley, Cecilia Vega, and Anderson Cooper. Former Executive Producer Bill Owens sits on the far right. Only Wertheim, Whitaker and Stahl remain at the program.

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When CBS fired Scott Pelley on Tuesday night, the new 60 Minutes executive producer, Nick Bilton, told Pelley it was for insubordination at a staff meeting the day before.

The veteran correspondent argues he was defending the DNA of 60 Minutes and the integrity of its journalism.

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The battle royale over the network’s most prestigious and profitable news program is part of a broader fight over the direction of CBS News.

And given CBS’s acquisition by a billionaire family whose business interests have become intertwined with the political interests of President Trump, it reflects a larger war over control of the media in the current moment.

That father and son, Larry and David Ellison, bought CBS’ parent company, Paramount, last summer. In January, they became co-owners of TikTok’s U.S. operations. Now they’re seeking approval from Trump’s regulators to buy Warner Bros. Discovery, the parent company of CNN.

A glamorous show shorn, for now, of most its stars

CBS fired Cecilia Vega, a correspondent, and Tanya Simon, the executive producer, from 60 Minutes last week. They are shown in this photo at the 2026 White House Correspondents' Association Dinner on April 25, 2026 in Washington, D.C.

CBS fired Cecilia Vega, a correspondent, and Tanya Simon, the executive producer, from 60 Minutes last week. They are shown in this photo at the 2026 White House Correspondents’ Association Dinner on April 25, 2026 in Washington, D.C.

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But the specifics of this individual episode matter — for 60 Minutes, CBS, its audience of millions, and even the news business itself.

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The program has been the most glamorous post in broadcast news. The correspondents are the stars of the show. And now, there are just three of them.

Anderson Cooper left last month, concerned over the direction of the network’s coverage. Last week was a virtual bloodbath: correspondents Cecilia Vega and Sharyn Alfonsi were fired. So were a producer and two show executives — including Tanya Simon, a longtime staffer who had stepped up as executive producer when her predecessor resigned in protest before the Ellisons’ takeover.

With Pelley’s ouster, only correspondents Lesley Stahl, Bill Whitaker, and Jon Wertheim remain. Now they are considering whether to resign, according to two associates with knowledge.

Their brand-new boss, Bilton, was previously a tech reporter for The New York Times and an investigative reporter for Vanity Fair. He executive-produced a documentary for Netflix about a couple accused of laundering Bitcoin and has been a producer on several other films.

Notably, he has no experience in television news.

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Neither does Bari Weiss, whom David Ellison installed as the network’s editor in chief last October. The Ellisons also bought her center-right views-and-news site, The Free Press.

She has maintained that the network of Walter Cronkite needs a makeover for the digital moment. She has also contended for years that CBS, along with the rest of mainstream media, is too reflexively anti-Trump, anti-Israel, and too woke.

A rejection of CBS News executives’ overtures

The new executive producer of 60 Minutes, Nick Bilton, has been a tech journalist and documentary filmmaker, but lacks experience in broadcast news.

The new executive producer of 60 Minutes, Nick Bilton, has been a tech journalist and documentary filmmaker, but lacks experience in broadcast news.

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Bilton attempted to set a conciliatory tone at Monday’s meeting — his first with the show. Pelley, a formidable veteran correspondent and former CBS Evening News anchor, wasn’t having it.

Pelley called Bilton unwelcome and unqualified. And Pelley said that Weiss was attempting to “murder” the program.

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In firing Pelley on Tuesday, Bilton said the journalist had hijacked the meeting and rejected overtures to work constructively through their differences. (NPR obtained a copy of the firing notice.) Bilton wrote that Pelley’s “antipathy to the future of the show came through loud and clear.”

In his own statement late Tuesday evening, shared with NPR, Pelley accused CBS’s new news leadership of killing 60 Minutes‘ DNA and pushing him “to inject falsehoods and bias into a politically sensitive story” and “to include assertions that are unverified.”

The accusations, to which CBS has not yet responded, echo those made by Alfonsi and Vega, the two correspondents fired last week.

Earlier this year, Alfonsi publicly complained after Weiss held one of her stories at the last minute, and kept it frozen for weeks, demanding an on-camera interview with a Trump White House official that never played out. It ran, unchanged from the intended version, with additional statements from the administration tacked on to the end.

After being fired, Vega said in a statement obtained by NPR that her team had “experienced efforts to insert political bias into our stories.”

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“Let’s call this what it is: censorship, both censorship and self-driven” Vega continued. “It is dangerous for the show and dangerous for democracy.”

Weiss previously rejected Alfonsi’s and Vega’s allegations. (CBS said Vega’s claims, for example, were “not based in reality” while expressing appreciation for her work.)

Weiss and Bilton say digital threat requires a 60 Minutes overhaul now

In a meeting this morning, Weiss said that Pelley chose his own path — that is, to be fired rather than to find a way to work through his concerns, according to attendees. The network and Weiss have not yet publicly addressed Pelley’s accusations of interference. 

Bilton and Weiss say they respect the show’s traditions, its accomplishments and its legacy of enterprise reporting, extended interviews and visual storytelling. It rose in the ratings 9% over the past season under Simon.

The two news leaders say, however, 60 Minutes needs to be overhauled before it becomes increasingly irrelevant in the era of streamers and other sources of news, information and entertainment in the digital age.

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Interviews with 12 current and former CBS News staffers, from producers to executives, suggest great reservations and suspicions remain about Weiss’ judgment and her ability to handle the prominent and even famous journalists on whom her division relies.

Weiss had initially sought to reinvent the CBS Evening News, dropping a two-anchor format that had sagged in the ratings. Cooper turned down Weiss’ overtures to anchor it and left the network altogether, concerned about her approach, according to associates. (They spoke on condition of anonymity because Cooper has not chosen to speak publicly on the matter.)

David Ellison became chairman and CEO of CBS' parent company, Paramount, after buying it last year.

David Ellison became chairman and CEO of CBS’ parent company, Paramount, after buying it last year.

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The ratings have continued to sag under new anchor Tony Dokoupil. And some CBS journalists, including producers who have left the Evening News, have publicly accused Weiss of making editorial decisions driven by politics. She has rejected those claims.

The decision to take on overhauling two key shows — one listing, one highly profitable, both high profile — carries significant risks for Weiss and the network, even apart from other considerations.

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But the Ellisons’ presence cannot be ignored.

When Shari Redstone was negotiating the sale of CBS’s parent company, Paramount, to the Ellisons’ Skydance Media last year, the network announced the end of Stephen Colbert’s late night show. He had been one of the president’s most biting and acerbic critics.

David Ellison also made a series of concessions directly to Trump’s chief broadcast regulator, Federal Communications Commission Chair Brendan Carr, gutting CBS’s diversity, equity and inclusion initiatives and appointing a conservative ombudsman to field complaints of bias against its news reporting.

Carr and other regulators approved the Paramount deal last summer.

The accommodations echo those made by other media titans.

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Amazon and Blue Origin founder Jeff Bezos remade the editorial pages of the Washington Post, which he owns, into a far more hospitable zone for Trump at the outset of his second term. So did Los Angeles Times owner Dr. Patrick Soon-Shiong, a noted medical device inventor. Amazon and Blue Origin have multi-billion dollar contracts with the federal government. Soon-Shiong’s medical research firm routinely has patent applications up for review with federal regulators. One was approved Tuesday.

The Ellisons are hoping to win approval from federal regulators next month for their purchase of Warner Bros. Discovery in a deal valued at more than $110 billion. It would include Warner Bros. Studio, HBO and CNN, among other properties.

As Weiss routs CBS News’ old guard, the question of what role she might play at CNN — and what changes that portends at CBS — hangs over journalists at the two networks. The fate of 60 Minutes serves as a high-stakes case study for both.

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