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At the Louvre, the Biggest Fashion Show in Paris

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At the Louvre, the Biggest Fashion Show in Paris

Sixteenth-century ornamental timepieces frame a crystal-studded metal bodysuit by Thierry Mugler. Gilded silver reliquaries with sculpted hands stand next to a pair of Hermès gloves. A ceramic hand warmer from Faenza, Italy, that looks like a book is twinned with a Chanel clutch that looks like a book.

This is “Louvre Couture,” the first fashion exhibition at the famed Paris museum in its 231-year history.

The last time haute couture caused so much excitement at the Louvre was in 1957, when, in the film “Funny Face,” Audrey Hepburn posed in front of the Winged Victory of Samothrace in a strapless red Givenchy gown and rushed down the Daru staircase, lifting a matching chiffon scarf over her head.

Forty-five fashion houses and designers — from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Iris van Herpen — have lent the museum 100 ensembles and accessories, dating from 1960 to 2025. They are arrayed not among the Louvre’s famous paintings and marble sculptures but throughout the nearly 100,000 square feet of its decorative arts department.

The department, whose unwieldy collection ranges from the Middle Ages to the early 19th century, is crammed with thousands of objects: medieval armor, Renaissance tapestries, carved ivories, bronzes, ceramics, imperial silverware and furniture.

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“It is not easy to enter our museum, especially our collection,” said Olivier Gabet, the director of the decorative arts department. “Our objective is to make more people, different people, younger people, happy, free and relaxed when they come here. We say to them: ‘OK, you love fashion. Fashion is a bridge to us.’”

With this exhibition, which opens on Jan. 24, the Louvre joins the ranks of institutions that have discovered how to use the popular culture of dress as a gateway into the world of art. And, more than ever, fashion is seducing French museums and artistic spaces.

Two weeks before the Louvre opened its exhibition on Jan. 24, Dolce & Gabbana opened a fashion spectacle of its own: “From the Heart to the Hands,” in the newly renovated Grand Palais. First opening in Milan last spring, the traveling costume retrospective features more than 200 creations of the house within immersive video installations and elaborate sets.

But this is not a museum exhibition. “This is an experience that is primarily joyful,” said Florence Müller, the creative director of the exhibition. “It is secondarily intellectual. It is not meant to be in a museum.”

Next month, the Musée du Quai Branly, a collection of African, Oceanic, American and Asian works, will open “Golden Thread,” an exhibition focusing on the art of using gold to adorn clothing and jewelry. In May, the Petit Palais, which belongs to the city of Paris, will mount “Worth: The Birth of Haute Couture,” a retrospective on the life and work of the British designer Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895).

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Two fashion museums, one with collections belonging to the state (the Musée des Arts Décoratifs), the other to the city (Palais Galliera), have long featured dazzling permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. More recently, luxury groups like LVMH and Kering have opened their own art exhibition spaces. And Saint Laurent, Dior and Alaïa have all created permanent spaces to show their work.

“Museums and fashion have been dancing with each other for decades,” said Pamela Golbin, the former chief curator of fashion and textiles at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. “Now there’s a real rapprochement. It is not always a successful pairing, but if it triggers an interest from the public — if it can see the art differently — it’s a great way to use the power of fashion.”

The defining example of this approach is, of course, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where the Costume Institute’s blockbuster shows are among the museum’s most visited every year. In acknowledgment of fashion’s ability to lure visitors, the Met is in the midst of a renovation that will relocate the fashion department from the basement, where it has historically been situated, to the former gift shop in the Great Hall, the majestic main entrance.

The Louvre, with 8.7 million visitors in 2024, doesn’t need fashion to boost attendance. On the contrary, it has capped its daily attendance to 30,000 to reduce overcrowding. Only 23 percent of visitors to the Louvre are French; the rest are foreigners. And 66 percent of its visitors are first-timers, almost all of whom line up to see the Mona Lisa.

Since Laurence des Cars became the museum’s director in 2021, she has struggled to woo returning visitors, a younger crowd and more Parisians into the Louvre. She has opened the museum on some evenings, organized concerts and theatrical performances and experimented with a dance-and-exercise circuit. The new fashion exhibition fits neatly into this strategy.

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Indeed, Ms. des Cars expresses so much admiration for the Met’s initiatives that some of her curators complain that she is Met-obsessed.

It is no accident that the Louvre — perhaps in a faint echo of the Met Gala — is twinning the new fashion exhibition with a fund-raising gala, Le Grand Dîner du Louvre, during Paris Fashion Week in March. Dinner will be served among the marble sculptures in the glass-roofed Cour Marly and will be followed by dancing under the pyramid. More than 30 tables were put up for sale, and the fund-raising goal of a million euros has already been exceeded, the museum said.

This exhibition is the natural next step for the Louvre, which has already tiptoed into the world of fashion. In 2022, it was one of six prestigious French museums that commemorated the 60th anniversary of the house of Saint Laurent by exhibiting 50 of his creations among their permanent collections. The Louvre put four of his embroidered and jeweled jackets near the French crown jewels in its gilded Apollo Gallery.

Currently, the small Musée National Eugène-Delacroix, which belongs to the Louvre, has an exhibition called “States of (Un)dress: Delacroix and Clothing,” which explores how carefully the artist chose the clothing in his paintings. And in March, Louvre-Lens, the satellite Louvre museum in northern France, will open an exhibition called “The Art of Dressing: Dressing Like an Artist,” examining what artists chose to wear and why, from the Renaissance to the present day.

“Art historians often have to know the history of clothing in order to know the history of art,” said Bruno Racine, the former head of France’s National Library who now heads the Palazzo Grassi in Venice, which belongs to the French billionaire François Pinault, founder of the Kering luxury group. “This is nothing artificial.”

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The Louvre can never match the Met when it comes to fashion. Unlike the Met, the Louvre is not a private museum but a hierarchical, state-run institution with a limited budget that takes its orders from the Culture Ministry and, ultimately, the French president.

And the Louvre has no clothes. The cruel irony is that France’s national textile collection does belong to the museum but to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which is housed inside the sprawling Louvre structure but is independent of the Louvre museum.

In a confidential memo to the culture minister Rachida Dati earlier this month, Ms. des Cars condemned the disastrous physical state of the museum, including water leaks and temperature variations that endanger artworks, overcrowding, insufficient toilet facilities and poor signage.

Even the glass pyramid showpiece designed by I.M. Pei and inaugurated in 1989 was “very inhospitable,” according to the memo, excerpted on Thursday in Le Parisien newspaper.

But for now, at least, the Louvre’s decorative arts department has one of the best stage sets for showing fashion — namely, the apartments of Emperor Napoleon III. The 40-foot-high Salon-Theatre oozes magnificent excess with crystal chandeliers, a fresco-filled ceiling and gold-leafed stucco ornamentation with vases of flowers and angels playing instruments.

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A mannequin wearing an embroidered red silk and cut-velvet ball gown with a deep ermine hem designed by John Galliano for Christian Dior is set in the center of the Salon. The gown matches the Salon’s red cut-velvet upholstery and drapes perfectly. She looks right at home.

Elaine Sciolino , a contributing writer for The New York Times in Paris, is the author of “Adventures in the Louvre: How to Fall in Love with the World’s Greatest Museum,” to be published in April 2025.

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Why PG movies are so big right now (CT+) : Consider This from NPR

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Why PG movies are so big right now (CT+) : Consider This from NPR
Many of
the biggest movies of the last few years have one thing in common.

They are all rated PG — which is
surprising because many of Hollywood’s biggest hits have been rated PG-13.

So what’s behind the current love of
PG movies, and why are kids the most influential moviegoers in the industry
right now?

To unlock this and other bonus content
— and listen to every episode sponsor-free — sign up for NPR+ at plus.npr.org.
Regular episodes haven’t changed and remain available every weekday.

Email us at considerthis@npr.org.

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This episode was produced by Kai
McNamee and Kathryn Fink. It was edited by Justine Kenin. Our executive
producer is Sami Yenigun.

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Clarington councillor charged with uttering threats over voicemail she says was AI | CBC News

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Clarington councillor charged with uttering threats over voicemail she says was AI | CBC News

Listen to this article

Estimated 3 minutes

The audio version of this article is generated by text-to-speech, a technology based on artificial intelligence.

A municipal councillor from Clarington, Ont., is facing criminal charges over alleged threats made in a voicemail involving a potential mayoral candidate, police say.

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Coun. Corinna Traill has previously denied making any threats, saying the voicemail in question was generated using artificial intelligence.

In a news release issued Wednesday, Peterborough police said the Ward 3 councillor had been arrested and charged with two counts of uttering threats.

Traill was released on a promise to appear and is slated to be back in court in January.

In a social media post from September, former mayoral candidate and retired police officer Tom Dingwall alleged that in August, he received a voicemail from Traill telling him to stay out of next year’s mayoral race to allow a friend of hers to “run unencumbered.”

Dingwall went on to say that the message “made it clear” that if he did not, he would be killed and his wife would be sexually assaulted.

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The charges came as a “relief,” Dingwall told CBC News on Wednesday.

“It has impacted our family and it has impacted my wife and it is a completely bizarre situation,” he said. “I certainly didn’t expect it, but I’m also not going to tolerate it.”

Dingwall said he is requesting that Traill step down from council.

“To be clear, no elected official, paid to represent us, should utilize intimidation or threats to dissuade anyone from pursuing elected office or engaging in public service, especially to the benefit of their friend,” he wrote on social media.

A man speaking into a microphone at a podium.
Retired police officer and former mayoral candidate Tom Dingwall alleges that Traill left him a threatening voicemail in August of this year. (Tom Dingwall/Facebook)

Traill declined to comment to CBC News, noting the issue is being resolved in court.

But the councillor previously issued her own statement about the situation in September, saying “unequivocally” that she did not leave the message.

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“I have been advised that artificial intelligence technology was involved,” she wrote. “Portions of the voicemail were my voice, but other parts were artificially generated.”

Traill went on to say that she respects the investigative process and planned to fully cooperate so what happened could be established.

“It is important that residents have confidence in the outcome, and I share in the community’s desire for clarity and truth,” she wrote.

In a statement issued Wednesday, Clarington Mayor Adrian Foster noted the arrest and said that it is important to allow the justice system to determine the outcome of the case.

“I want to affirm to residents that Clarington Council is focused on serving our community and we will continue to do so,” he said. “As this is an ongoing matter before the courts, the Municipality of Clarington cannot make any further comments at this time.”

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‘The Abandons’ is a sudsy soap opera dressed up in spurs and a cowboy hat

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‘The Abandons’ is a sudsy soap opera dressed up in spurs and a cowboy hat

Lena Headey as Fiona Nolan in The Abandons.

Matthias Clamer/Netflix


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Matthias Clamer/Netflix

You will never get lost watching The Abandons.

True, Netflix’s new Western series throws a lot of characters at you in its first few minutes.

There’s Constance (Gillian Anderson), the steely widowed matriarch of the Van Nesses, a rich mining family in the Washington Territory of the 1850s. She’s got two obnoxiously entitled sons, Willem (Toby Hemingway) and Garret (Lucas Till) and a pretty, sensitive daughter Trisha (Aisling Franciosi). The wealth of the Van Ness mines ensures that she’s got the town’s mayor (Patton Oswalt(!)) and sheriff (Marc Menchaca) under her thumb, and she’s got a pair of enforcers to do her dirty work (Michael Greyeyes, Michiel Huisman).

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Which turns out to be important, because those mines are running dry, and Constance has her eye on a patch of real estate owned by poor cattle-rancher Fiona (Lena Headey), another steely matriarch. Fiona heads up her own found family of misfits on a ranch called The Abandons, including the headstrong Dahlia (Diana Silvers), the wary Lilla Belle (Natalia del Riego) and the sweet, doe-eyed Elias (Nick Robinson). Toss into the mix some fellow settlers (Lamar Johnson, Ryan Hurst, and a handful of others) and you got yourself a teeming ensemble of players.

This being the Old West, more than one of the above-mentioned characters don’t make it through the first couple episodes. But the rest get enough screentime to progress through their own storylines, their own tiny, bespoke narrative arcs, over the course of the show’s seven-episode season. (Constance’s daughter and Fiona’s son, for example, waste little time getting their stars crossed, because of course they do.) The series also teems with various factions vying for power — bandits and Native Americans and townsfolk and the military — each with its own competing motivation.

That is all, admittedly, a whole lot to keep track of, so you’d be forgiven for worrying that you might need to hie your butt online to find a wiki that’ll help keep you oriented from scene to scene, episode to episode.

But this is 2025, and streamers like Netflix are reportedly concerned about you being on your phone while watching their content, so they’ve put certain protocols in place.

How else to explain why the characters on The Abandons can be counted upon to say — to announce, really — exactly what’s on their mind, in its entirety, the very moment it occurs to them? Sometimes they repeat themselves for good measure. So adjust your expectations: If you go into The Abandons knowing that things like subtext, unvoiced implications and nuance won’t be showing up, you’ll never miss them.

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Aisling Franciosi, left, as Trisha Van Ness, Gillian Anderson as Constance Van Ness and Lucas Till as Garret Van Ness in The Abandons.

Aisling Franciosi, left, as Trisha Van Ness, Gillian Anderson as Constance Van Ness and Lucas Till as Garret Van Ness in The Abandons.

Michelle Faye/Netflix


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You might be watching an episode and notice a character telling another character what’s about to happen, right before it dutifully happens. Afterwards — count on it — a character will get a moment to describe everything that you just watched happen. (The Abandons is not remotely unique, by the way; once you get attuned to it you’ll start to notice it happening, to a greater or lesser extent, on most series that are currently streaming.)

Presumably that’s the nervous nellies at Netflix (and other networks) instructing their writers rooms to hold your hand and walk you through their episodic content. Yes, it’s annoying, but it helps to clarify something about The Abandons in particular.

On the surface it’s a gorgeous, hardscrabble Western, awash in stark landscapes, grubby faces, bar fights and banditry. But that’s window-dressing. Scratch away the grime with a fingernail, and you expose the pure, glitzy soap opera beneath. Oh, sure, it looks tough, brutal, merciless, dad-coded, like American Primeval. But at heart?

It’s Dynasty.

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Consider: The Abandons is only an ensemble on paper; in execution, it’s a show about Anderson and Headey’s icy, powerful, hard-hearted women, Constance and Fiona. Constance wants Fiona’s land, Fiona refuses to sell. This sets off an escalating series of events that give Anderson and Headey plenty of opportunities to share the screen, trading venomous barbs and unleashing thinly veiled threats at each other, while members of their respective families, in varying combinations, clash (and smash).

There’s intrigue, betrayal, revenge and plenty of petty schemes. Buried secrets come to light, as they must. And while I would never spoil the scene in which the season-long rivalry between Constance and Fiona reaches its inevitable climax, I’ll just note that the only thing missing from it is a lily pond.

This soapiness, I hasten to note, is not a bad thing — it’s good. It’s fun. Headey is terrific as a woman who does bad things for what she only barely manages to convince herself are good reasons, and Anderson is giving Iron Lady badassery (literally — she’s busting out her throaty Maggie Thatcher whisper from The Crown, minus the plummy vowels). Her Constance does bad things too, mostly because well … she’s a bad person. Remember what I said above, about nuance, comma, the utter lack of? Yeah.

The show dutifully provides her motivations to do the nasty things she does, but those motivations are rooted in greed and hatred. The story of The Abandons is a series of black-and-white conflicts unfolding in a stark, Manichean universe. In Fiona we get a flawed hero, in Constance, a hiss-worthy villain.

Which would seem to suggest, of course, a classic Good-defeats-Evil ending, but that’s not what we get here. In fact, we get no kind of ending at all. The seventh and final episode ends on a cliffhanger.

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That said, it’s all but impossible to begrudge that lack of resolution, because the episode preceding it is constructed with such care and confidence. The tension ratchets up, scene by scene, in a way that feels clean, assured and ruthlessly efficient. It just works.

And so does The Abandons, kind of — as long as you’re okay with getting some suds in your saddle.

This piece also appeared in NPR’s Pop Culture Happy Hour newsletter. Sign up for the newsletter so you don’t miss the next one, plus get weekly recommendations about what’s making us happy.

Listen to Pop Culture Happy Hour on Apple Podcasts and Spotify.

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