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Aretha Franklin had her own ideas about fashion. ‘Respect’ lets them shine

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When veteran Broadway costume designer Clint Ramos was tapped to work on the Aretha Franklin biopic “Respect,” he quickly discovered himself learning the late singer’s roles as each a cultural and sartorial icon.

“She was a trend icon however not within the conventional sense,” Ramos says in a name from his Manhattan residence. “The lady by no means adopted any tendencies. As she moved by way of the narrative of her life, it appears evident her clothes merely adopted her life. She wasn’t a trend plate or a model or something like that — she was telegraphing the best way she felt by way of clothes the identical method she did along with her music. She wasn’t a loyalist to any home or designer; she had garments from Detroit, garments actually off-the-rack and custom-made issues.

Aretha Franklin poses for a portrait circa 1965.

(Michael Ochs Archives / Getty Photographs)

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“Possibly greater than something, Aretha’s iconic present to trend is her perspective: ‘And I don’t give a rattling.’ [Laughs.] She wore what she needed, how she needed, when she needed. Take it or go away it. And that’s Aretha.”

You’ve talked about how Aretha dressed for emotion and safety versus model and pattern. Is that this one thing you knew previous to the venture?

I don’t know for a reality it’s true, after all. But it surely appears to me, going by way of all of the analysis over all of the a long time, there was a subliminal ethos in the best way she dressed. Firstly, within the images the place she’s extremely posed, she seemed so effortful; there was plenty of psychological structure occurring holding her in. However there have been additionally plenty of images with one other essence that isn’t excellent — a hair askew or her make-up form of smeared. Her humanity at all times got here by way of.

The factor I beloved about Aretha is she didn’t care who preferred or didn’t like what she wore. She dressed for herself. However she did have some actual clunkers; bear in mind the ballerina tutu?

Sure! [Laughs.] Typically the size would actually be off. But it surely makes you take a look at how we’re skilled to view trend. How we outline aesthetics for ladies. This was a girl, in spite of everything, who advised Valentino and Calvin Klein to make bigger-sized clothes, and this was within the ’70s, when dimension range was unacceptable. She was a maverick in that method.

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Portrait of American singer and musician Aretha Franklin, 1971.

Portrait of American singer and musician Aretha Franklin, 1971.

(Anthony Barboza / Getty Photographs)

Jennifer Hudson and Aretha are very completely different girls when it comes to dimension and form. How did this have an effect on your design course of?

It was about scale. Additionally, plenty of the early conversations Jennifer and I had have been about how Aretha walked. She had a really gingered stroll, one thing I feel was about not taking over an excessive amount of house. We stored speaking about that so much. So, for me, after I was becoming Jennifer, I used to be actually acutely aware of the precise moments when she was compelled to take up a small house versus when she in the end determined to take up an enormous house.

Are you able to give an instance?

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Plenty of her early clothes within the ’50s was very constricted — prim and correct. The Columbia years, when her father was peddling her and needed her to be the Black Judy Garland, her clothes have been restrictive, actually tight. And as her music and her life shifted, she dressed unfastened and greater and simply took up extra space and quantity, with large furs and caftans and all that.

Costume designer Clint Ramos adjusts Jennifer Hudson's full-length silver gown as she talks with director Liesl Tommy.

Costume designer Clint Ramos adjusts Jennifer Hudson’s robe as she talks with director Liesl Tommy, proper.

(Quantrell D. Colbert / Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Photos)

Would you agree a superb share of Aretha followers weren’t conscious she grew up in an upper-middle-class residence, fairly privileged? She was not a toddler of poverty.

Sure. I discover it fascinating how we’re geared to view this. Whenever you design African American divas, the media nearly needs a template of a rags-to-riches factor. Ray. Tina. However Aretha’s household weren’t sharecroppers. The necessary factor is, no matter her financial means, the racial and gender traumas inflicted upon her nonetheless occurred. It’s so profound; but it surely appears uniquely profound in an prosperous world.

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Let’s discuss a number of the movie’s extra iconic items. What’s the story of the attractive beaded gold gown?

I needed a gown Aretha beloved sporting. I noticed footage of her Amsterdam live performance, although I wasn’t capable of finding its unique coloration and what it was made from. No one is aware of the place the unique gown is. A classic seller contacted me through Instagram saying, “I’ve an an identical gown [to what] Aretha wore at her Amsterdam live performance, can you utilize it?” It turned out to be an off-the-rack gown that’s metallic gold and made out of ribbons.

A costume sketch of Jennifer Hudson in the gold beaded dress.

“Respect” costume designer Clint Ramos’ sketch of Jennifer Hudson within the gold beaded gown.

(Clint Ramos / MGM Studios)

For our movie, I needed it extra delicate, so I did it with pearls and a champagne silk and strips of ribbons. It was very labor-intensive, requiring plenty of fingers. However, thank God, nothing was off and the small print have been excellent as a result of they blew it up mammoth-size for the [film’s] large Sundown Boulevard billboard. After I got here to L.A. for the premiere, I needed to drive by to see it.

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I observed on the well-known green-striped feathered outfit Aretha wore with Martin Luther King Jr., and in addition her “Wonderful Grace” paisley robe, you shifted the recent inexperienced coloration to aqua. Why?

I at all times contemplate how we modify issues for the fashionable eye. And we needed to assist the scene. And also you needed to be cautious as a result of it may nearly be cartoonish, a Dr. Seuss gown. For me, that lime inexperienced coloration loudly squeals ’60s — I simply needed to provide them each somewhat bit extra class and modernity.

A sketch of Jennifer Hudson in a flowing aqua gown for the "Amazing Grace" concert.

A sketch of Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin in a flowing aqua robe for the “Wonderful Grace” live performance.

(Clint Ramos / MGM Studios)

Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin walks through an applauding crowd.

Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin in “Respect.”

(Quantrell D. Colbert / Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Photos)

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The furs have been wonderful. Had been they classic, fake, did you’ve got them made?

They have been a mix of classic and pretend; I didn’t have any new furs made, as I didn’t wish to cross that line. I believed it necessary to know what her motivation was in sporting all her full-length, large furs: She was making an attempt to guard herself. It was about an armor. The best way she associated to her furs, I imagine, was instantly proportional to her worry. I imply, who goes onstage with a full-length fur like she did on the Kennedy Heart Honors? There have to be some fairly large drive inside you saying, “Hey, guys, I can’t belief these individuals.” Additionally, the furs have been Aretha wrapping herself up on this large success.

Marlon Wayans stars as Ted White and Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin wrapped in fur  in "Respect."

Marlon Wayans stars as Ted White and Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin wrapped in fur in “Respect.”

(Quantrell D. Colbert / Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Photos)

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You talked about your favourite piece is the slip Aretha wears within the scene the place she’s battling her alcohol demons. That one easy slip spoke volumes. Was it classic? The place did you discover it?

I beloved that slip. It was a classic piece I discovered in Atlanta. The scene was onerous and emotional, and Jennifer wore no make-up and no wig. No nothing. So for me, what might I give her? The slip was a really pale inexperienced, not white, and it wanted to talk weak. There’s a scene simply prior that didn’t make the movie the place she’s sporting this slip, places on a fur coat, a wig and sun shades and goes to a liquor retailer. It had so much to do, this slip. This can be a nice instance of costume giving an actor what they should inform the story, and that slip achieved it.

You began work on the movie even earlier than there was a script, and also you and Jennifer labored an awesome deal collectively. How was it working and collaborating along with her?

Unbelievable. One of the best ways to explain it’s as a non secular expertise. She completely understood the task and that it wasn’t about vainness however discovering Aretha and none of this, “Do I look fabulous?” She was keen to place in hours and hours and hours of labor. There have been days we took seven, eight hours going by way of issues, and there was not a single day she was late. She was very critical about this position, and she or he gave us the present of preparation. I’d work with Jennifer once more in a minute.

Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin sings with three backup singers in "Respect."

Brenda Nicole Moorer stars as Brenda Franklin, from left, Hailey Kilgore as Carolyn Franklin, Saycon Sengbloh as Erma Franklin and Jennifer Hudson as Aretha Franklin in “Respect.”

(Quantrell D. Colbert / Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Photos)

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Lifestyle

Squirrels gone wild in your L.A. yard? Here’s how to get your revenge

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Squirrels gone wild in your L.A. yard? Here’s how to get your revenge

This is the part where I admit two things — neither of which I’m proud of. First, it was only then, several months in, I realized I’d made a colossal blunder when trying to hang my precious high-tech feeder out of squirrels’ reach. I’d measured the recommended five feet off the ground sure enough, but failed to account for the elevation afforded by a nearby tree stump that cut that distance in half. Within 10 minutes of realizing my error, I moved the feeder to a non-stump-adjacent location. Voila! My immediate problem was solved. As of this writing, it’s been 40 days without a squirrel breach.

Second, even though I’d won the battle by accomplishing exactly what I’d set out to do, I refused to give up. I’d waged this war too long and invested too much. How could I sit back when my friend’s guava tree continued to be routinely ransacked and my co-worker’s avocados savaged and tossed to the ground with grubby-pawed abandon?

Peppermint essential oil, first sprayed and later put in jars with cloth wicks around the yard (a suggested hack found online), worked — but only for a short period of time.

(Adam Tschorn / Los Angeles Times)

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And worse yet, what if they decided to come for the single — and so far unscathed — orange tree just now starting to show pea-sized fruits in my backyard? No, I needed closure. But before I started investing in owl-shaped, light-up motion sensors (these exist) or blasting C-SPAN across my yard at all hours, I needed someone to tell me if protecting L.A. backyard fruit trees (humanely, remember?) was even possible.

And that’s how I ended up on the phone explaining my situation to Roger Baldwin, a UC Davis Cooperative Extension specialist who focuses on human-wildlife conflict resolution.

“You’ll find various chemical repellents that are marketed and sold [to combat them],” Baldwin told me. “But there’s nothing that’s ever been proven effective against tree squirrels. So I wouldn’t anticipate there being anything that you could spray to really keep them away. [And] there’s no kind of sound devices or ultrasonic devices or lights or strobes — or anything like that — that’s really been proven effective.” (He did note that some repellents might work on a short-term basis until the wily critters adapt.)

“No,” Baldwin said, “there’s nothing that’s guaranteed to work when you’ve got fruit trees, which are an abundant food source, and tree squirrels. … But, like with your bird feeder, if you had an isolated tree — meaning nothing else around for a good 10 feet and nothing overhanging it — and its lowest branches were a good five or six feet off the ground, you could put a metal ring around the trunk to keep them from being able to climb it. But basically this is almost never going to happen.”

He added that even trapping, which might be an option for those willing to consider the squirrel death penalty (in California, the eastern fox squirrel can be trapped and euthanized humanely — but not released elsewhere), would likely be only a temporary solution. “Invariably there’s someone — probably more than one person — on your block feeding squirrels,” he said. “And other squirrels will likely move in. And there’s not much you can do about that. There are too many access points.”

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Sensing where things were headed, I cut to the chase. Based on Baldwin’s 16 years of experience, did I have any viable options beyond accepting that my backyard would forever be shared with whatever eastern gray fox squirrels wished to have their run of it?

“There’s probably not a lot that can be done to keep the squirrels from the fruit and the trees given the different limitations that you’ve discussed,” he said. “Yes, it’s more about realistically just learning to live with the squirrels.”

Perhaps sensing my dismay, Baldwin offered a tiny glimmer of hope.

“Sometimes, if you’ve got a very aggressive dog in your backyard — one that can chase squirrels effectively — that can sometimes help reduce problems,” he said.

We’re a dogless household, and the notion of getting a dog just to vanquish a squirrel (or three) felt wrong. (I’m sure our two cats would agree.) So I’m accepting defeat on that front and keeping my focus on the no-longer-under-attack bird feeder.

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But so help me, the minute one of those hairy little heathens helps itself to the fruit of my orange tree, the phrase “dogs of war” is going to take on a whole new meaning on my backyard battlefield.

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In 'Timid,' there is bravery under the surface

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In 'Timid,' there is bravery under the surface

Jonathan Todd/Graphix


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Jonathan Todd/Graphix

Many Americans assume that timidity — or its close cousin, shyness — is solely a negative trait. In our culture, calling an individual timid suggests that he is carrying anxiety, fear, and a lack of confidence. And while some of these associations might be accurate, we could also choose to see this attribute for its potential values. Timidity might go hand in hand with thoughtfulness, deliberateness, even a rich and full interior life.

Enter Jonathan Todd’s new middle-grade graphic novel, Timid. The bright cover on the book alludes to the potential for all these characteristics, from the bad to the good, captured in a single image. A Black tween sits behind an oversized red composition notebook with cartoon sketches splayed across its cover. He is wide-eyed, his oversized glasses poking out from behind the book. The rest of his face is almost completely obscured, as four giant sweat drops jump off his forehead. He is obviously anxious, clutching his book with two huddled arms. But what else is going on behind the surface?

Images from Jonathan Todd's Timid.

Images from Jonathan Todd’s Timid.

Jonathan Todd/Graphix

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Written and drawn by a longtime cartoonist and comics educator Jonathan Todd, who has dedicated the book to “anyone who has ever felt alone,” the semi-autobiographical Timid follows the boy on the cover, 12-year-old Cecil Hall. He is a 7th grader whose family moves from Florida, where they have been living for most of his life, to Massachusetts. From the beginning, it’s clear that Cecil knows exactly who he is and who he wants to be—a future famous cartoonist. But it’s not always easy for him to express or act on his desires. It’s also obvious that others around him, in part because he is so quiet, don’t always take his preferences into account.

Cecil’s father, who grew up in a public housing project, thinks his son needs to be tougher, because it was toughness that got him through his own childhood. His sister thinks he is not showing enough pride in his Blackness, and she advises him to befriend other Black children at his new school immediately.

Cecil knows that his family members are only looking out for him, but it’s his gentle, soft-spoken mother who makes him feel most relaxed. Though their relationship is often relegated to the sidelines, the few quiet scenes showing them alone together reflect a Cecil completely at ease. His mother knows how to let him simply be himself, and she trusts he will find his way on his own terms.

Pages from Jonathan Todd's Timid.

Pages from Jonathan Todd’s Timid.

Jonathan Todd/Graphix


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Jonathan Todd/Graphix

Meanwhile, at school, Cecil struggles to adjust, particularly in finding a friend group. He is confused by the difference in social make up from his previous school to this new one. Among other changes, what he notes almost immediately is how kids at Webber Middle School are a lot less integrated. This is problematic, for example, when he has to figure out which table to join for lunch—the Black children mainly sit at their own, separate table.

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Organized into 14 chapters illustrated in deliciously bright colors, Timid’s offbeat, cartoony drawing style captures the powerful emotions that drive young people’s lives. Above all else, Cecil wants to be recognized, by his peers and the adults around him, as an artist—to carve out an identity for himself based on the activity that brings him the most joy and fulfillment. Though he may, at times, have difficulty asking for what he wants in a direct manner, he takes chances in his own way. After several false starts, he strikes up a friendship with Sean, another Black student. They share a love of storytelling and Star Trek. They enter, and come in second, in a comic contest.

On the outside, Cecil may seem overwhelmingly timid, but upon closer look it’s clear he is full of bravery. Sometimes bravery just materializes in disguise.

Tahneer Oksman is a writer, teacher, and scholar specializing in memoir as well as graphic novels and comics. She lives in Brooklyn, NY.

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Kevin Costner 'Sensitive' About Movie Intimacy, Says Sex Scene Partner

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Kevin Costner 'Sensitive' About Movie Intimacy, Says Sex Scene Partner

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