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American prep clothing finally finds its edge

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American prep clothing finally finds its edge

Hella Academy by Chris Echevarria Pennant Chino in khaki, Field Ready Rugby in hunter green, Schoolboy Blazer in navy, Weekender Bucket Hat in shell, Ellis Penny Loafer in chocolate, Vibram 1757 Lug Sole.

When we talk about “traditional American menswear,” rarely do we ask what that actually means. Whose “American tradition” are we pointing to? For better or worse, that phrase usually means what is most commonly referred to as “prep.” The classic polos, khakis and three-roll-two blazers commonly associated with Ralph Lauren. Prep is a trend that’s not really a trend at all, a much fussed-over buzzword that describes the very foundation of the American wardrobe. It’s in the air and the water here and has been exported across the world. It’s a style that is almost synonymous with lineage, legacy and family. There’s a reason a cooked J. Crew polo and slowly decaying Sperry Top Siders will always look good. It’s because they tell a story. Classic American clothes tell a hell of a story — of your life, your family or the entire nation. It’s clothing associated with the ruling class, the wealthy and the white. Back to the original question: Whose American tradition are we pointing to? Whose story is this?

Chris Echevarria, the mind behind the brand Academy, asks that question with everything he releases. And in the answer, Echevarria says: my story, but also yours. The looks are familiar — gold-button blazers, oxfords and rugbys — but with the edge of New York City peacocking. It’s the uniform of Echevarria’s youth on the East Coast, bopping between the suburbs and Manhattan. For most American heritage menswear, nostalgia is a heavy influence, but the young Black designer doesn’t want to play with all that. “Nostalgia is a good way to play on people’s emotions. And it’s an easy way to play on people’s emotions,” Echevarria tells me over Zoom. “I don’t want to play with people’s emotions in that way.”

For Image's August Issue - Academy
Jean-Christopher, left, wears Academy by Chris Echevarria. Hella wears Academy by Chris Echevarria

Jean-Christopher, left, wears Academy by Chris Echevarria Bookstore Crewneck in navy/red, PE Short in crimson, Clásico Tassel Loafer in onyx. Hella wears Academy by Chris Echevarria Away Game Hoodie, Schoolboy Blazer in navy, PE Short in canary, Kiltie Loafer Exclusively for Academy in chestnut.

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Academy is, in a sense, backward-looking. The site’s About page boldly declares that the brand is “rooted in education and the lifelong pursuit of enrichment.” When you see the clothes, you can’t help but think about school — either your school or the imaginary preparatory academy (hence the name) from a movie like “Dead Poets Society.” It’s also about what happens after school, those youthful trips to the mall to comb through racks and racks of Gap or Banana Republic. Echevarria is clearly still communicating with that version of himself as he tells me about his mom taking him to the mall in his home state of New Jersey to start the long process of understanding what style meant to him. But he also sees that nostalgia as a trap that prevents personal growth. How much do you want to pine for “better days,” when maybe there was more under the surface of those “better days” than we want to admit?

The designer Chris Echevarria wears the Academy by Chris Echevarria

The designer Chris Echevarria wears the Academy by Chris Echevarria Staff Varsity jacket in collaboration with Golden Bear and Brian Blakely, Max Pittion sunglasses, New Era hat.

Echevarria got his start in fashion by dropping out of the University of Maryland premed program. From there, he moved back to New York to make a go of his passion for getting dressed, first with a job at Kidrobot, then a spot at Parsons School of Design. But Parsons made its fashion students work through courses in womenswear before they even considered approaching men’s clothing. What set Echevarria off was a stint at the holy mecca of late-2000s menswear: the J. Crew Liquor Store in Lower Manhattan. Echevarria waxes lovingly about that time, when the Ludlow suit reigned supreme and razor-sharp, “Mad Men”-style tailoring was all the rage. He is, dare I say, a little nostalgic for the moment it all started to really click. “If I didn’t have those experiences, I probably wouldn’t be where I am.”

The Liquor Store heralded a new age of the man’s relationship to clothing — that it could be a lifelong pursuit: for creativity, joy and defiant self-expression. And it all happened with the classics of prep. “Now you had everything that you wanted as a man in one place, and you had people there that could speak to that specifically for you,” Echevarria says. “Before that, there wasn’t much [community].”

Echevarria networked with the heavy hitters and up-and-comers who would define the menswear scene in the years after. Brands like Billy Reid, Thom Browne and Scott Sternberg’s dearly departed Band of Outsiders remixed and reimagined the simplicity of menswear. “Band of Outsiders really showed me how fun this industry could be, just through the silhouettes, through the colors used, through the way that [Sternberg] pushed boundaries on design but still made it classic in a way that was ’80s and modern at the same time.”

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Taking what he learned in the streets of SoHo, Echevarria in 2017 launched Blackstock & Weber, a line of forward-thinking loafers that hit just as menswear was having another go at prep. Guys who might have focused all their energy on Jordans now were copping shoes their dad might have worn, but with the bold twists that define everything Echevarria does — two-tones, chunky lug soles and cheetah print.

Academy, which launched last fall, is a natural extension of what Echevarria started with Blackstock & Weber. The familiar, but different. Chinos with pennants sewed across them nod to Ralph Lauren. There’s camo, which is so dialed into trends but also inspired by Japanese military style. Prep clothes are given a swagger that they don’t always have.

If this sounds like other brands you might be into, you’re not wrong. Your IG feed and your shopping cart are filled with brands touching American heritage fashion and injecting urban New York into it, but there’s one major difference that Echevarria articulates simply: “The difference between me and [other prep designers] is that I can say n—, and [they] can’t,” he says bluntly. “You can skate around these ideas, and you can be like, I was around, but did you really live it? You can talk about the things that me and my friends actually did on a daily basis and make caricatures about what our experience was and is. But at the end of the day, it’s just a caricature.”

For Image's August Issue - Academy
Jean-Christopher and Hella wear Academy by Chris Echevarria.

Jean-Christopher wears Academy by Chris Echevarria Airport Fleece, Away Game Hoodie, Stash Short in camo, Ellis Penny Loafer in chocolate, Vibram 1757 Lug Sole. Hella wears Academy by Chris Echevarria Stash Pant in navy, Safari Jacket in navy, Kiltie Loafer exclusively for Academy in midnight.

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That caricature he speaks about is typified by celebrity and brand lookbooks and IG culture that has come to dominate fashion, specifically menswear: the carefully curated props (cigars, half-eaten plates of pasta), allusions to old episodes of “Seinfeld” and any other ephemera that signal “New York” or “Black.” How does one define what is real? Who is the arbiter of truth? In some cases, it’s just a feeling. You see something and know that it came from a place of lived-in experience. The reality of Academy is that it comes from a Black kid from New Jersey and is informed by that life. It’s not a trend or a put-on.

What Echevarria hopes to do is speak to the diversity of not just his experience but the experience of straddling lines and living in multiple worlds as a Black man in America.

“I’ve done everything from live in the suburbs to live in an apartment with my mother and my grandmother to having cousins that lived in the projects and visiting them and sometimes even living with them,” he says. “I understand how all of these different strata exist within this world, and I understand how fashion is a form of expression through all of those strata. Especially as a person of color.”

As a biracial person myself, this hits home for me. It goes back to that first question. Whose American tradition are we pointing to? Whose story is this?

“What ends up happening as a person of color is that you kind of have to use these signals [of style and fashion], through the things that you decide to wear, through the way that you decide to present yourself — to show the other people in the room that you belong. And that is a unique experience to any person of color that grew up in America.”

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Jean-Christopher wears Academy by Chris Echevarria Talk Show Cap in navy

Jean-Christopher wears Academy by Chris Echevarria Talk Show Cap in navy, Over Shirt in red/blue, Stash Short in camo, Clásico Tassel Loafer in onyx.

By recontextualizing prep, Academy shows that “tradition” doesn’t have to mean exclusion. And that in an industry dominated by white people, a Black designer can thrive and make clothes that make “tradition” feel intensely personal. A blazer or a pair of loafers that can build a legacy.

Production Craft Alan, Jared Craft, Bella Lopez
Models Jean-Christopher Celestin, Hella Tall
Grooming Jennifer Gonzalez
Photo Assistant Josua Jiminez

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'The Sixth Sense' and a career of plot twists : Consider This from NPR

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'The Sixth Sense' and a career of plot twists : Consider This from NPR

1999 Haley Joel Osment And Bruce Willis Star In “The Sixth Sense.” (Photo By Getty Images)

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1999 Haley Joel Osment And Bruce Willis Star In “The Sixth Sense.” (Photo By Getty Images)

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Twenty-five years ago this month, one film, and one filmmaker, became synonymous with the big plot twist.

Now, if you haven’t seen The Sixth Sense, we won’t ruin it for you, but it’s no spoiler to say that the film became a phenomenon, and its director, M. Night Shyamalan, an overnight sensation.

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Brian Hiatt, a senior writer for Rolling Stone says Shyamalan’s career has had twists and turns to rival his movies.

“You know, in the ’90s, it was a great time to be a director, it was a great time to go from almost nothing to superstar,” Hiatt told NPR.

“The faster the rise or the bigger the rise, the sort of harder the fall.”

You’re reading the Consider This newsletter, which unpacks one major news story each day. Subscribe here to get it delivered to your inbox, and listen to more from the Consider This podcast.

The public reaction.

Shyamalan’s rise was fast AND big.

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The Sixth Sense became the second highest grossing film of 1999, and was nominated for six Oscars, including Best Picture. By 2002, Newsweek touted him on its cover as “The Next Spielberg.”

But in 2004, with his gothic thriller The Village, things began to go wrong.

“Backlashes don’t happen all at once. They kind of actually can happen in slow motion. And that was the first hint that a backlash was coming,” Hiatt said.

“It was 2004. It had a pretty mixed reception. The promotion of the film was was a little bit overdone at the time. And a lot of people thought the twist was just flat out dumb.”

His next films were not only critically panned, but also flopped at the box office. By the time he made the almost-universally-hated After Earth in 2013, many moviegoers decided that Shyamalan was a sham.

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But Hiatt says Shyamalan made a comeback by betting on himself. In 2015 he released The Visit, which he made with a minimal budget and partly financed himself — and earned some of his best reviews in over a decade.

That stripped-down approach has helped fuel a run of recent successes. And Shyamalan hopes for another hit starting this weekend with his latest thriller, Trap.

Propelling from success.

Starring opposite Bruce Willis in The Sixth Sense was young Haley Joel Osment. He was 11 when the film came out — and he grew up in the shadow of the its success, like filmmaker M. Night Shyamalan.

“It makes me very happy that 25 years later he’s gotten an incredible run of movies,” Osment told Consider This host Scott Detrow.

Like his director, Osment never really stopped working. Dramas, comedies, fantasies, voiceovers, TV, movies … he’s now 36 years old and still busy.

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But how did he contend such a huge splash, so early on?

“As an actor, it can be an opportunity [to make such an impression], because you can find all these ways to camouflage yourself. One of the most gratifying things you can have happen as an actor is people go like, ‘Oh, I didn’t realize that was you’ in something, which I think actors get a kick out of,” Osment told NPR.

“So I’m 36 now and I feel like, all these new opportunities for roles are opening up to me because of my age. I was able to play so many different types of roles, an unusually diverse group of roles, I was very fortunate to have when I was a kid,” he added.

“And now, I’ve never been afraid of getting older, because it’s just it broadens the horizons of the different types of characters you can play.”

This episode was produced by Marc Rivers. It was edited by Tinbete Ermyas and Patrick Jarenwattananon. Our executive producer is Sami Yenigun.

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Banksy's back with surprise daily street art of animals across London

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Banksy's back with surprise daily street art of animals across London

People gather to look at an artwork by street artist Banksy depicting two pelicans catching fish, painted on top of a fish-and-chips shop in Walthamstow, northeast London, on Aug. 9.

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LONDON — Street artist Banksy has grabbed attention this summer with a spectacular series of London artworks that has delighted and confounded the city’s residents and visitors alike.

Banksy — whose real identity remains unknown despite more than two decades in the public eye — has been unveiling stencils and installations depicting animals at different spots around the city every day for more than a week, announcing them on Instagram.

The works, all but one of them painted stencils in public spaces, have left his fans and art critics guessing as to their meaning, appearing soon after the worst far-right riots in more than 10 years rocked cities and towns across the United Kingdom. They have once more catapulted the artist back into the center of the country’s cultural conversation.

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“There’s strong evidence over the years that Banksy sees himself as a political artist and has a resonance in political terms in almost everything that he does,” says Andrew Renton, a professor of curating at Goldsmiths University of London, one of Britain’s most high-profile arts institutions. “And it’s kind of interesting, because the works that have appeared in the past week are in many ways not political.”

On Aug. 5, a black goat materialized on an old industrial building in southwest London. Then the following day, two elephants appeared — as if talking to one another through bricked up windows — at the end of a row of houses in nearby Chelsea. Monkeys were seen stenciled swinging across a bridge near an East London public transit station. And a wolf was painted on a satellite dish in South London — then dramatically stolen by several masked men who moved quickly with a ladder and a getaway van but were filmed on a bystander’s cellphone.

A train goes past an artwork by street artist Banksy, depicting three monkeys, painted on the side of a railway bridge in east London on Aug. 7.

A train goes past an artwork by street artist Banksy, depicting three monkeys, painted on the side of a railway bridge in east London on Aug. 7.

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A woman and children view a mural depicting a goat by the street artist Bansky, on Aug. 5.

A woman and children view a mural depicting a goat by the street artist Bansky, on Aug. 5.

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A week ago, in the northeast of London, a painted pair of pelicans were spotted perched above a fish-and-chips shop, as though wolfing down fish on the storefront’s signage. The next day, a cat adorned an abandoned billboard on a lonely stretch of road and then a glass police box in the heart of the city’s financial district was transformed overnight into a fish tank.

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The final two pieces in the series included a mural of a rhino that appeared to be climbing atop an abandoned car, and a gorilla on shutters outside London’s largest zoo that was lifting up a curtain to allow a seal and several birds to escape captivity.

Besides the theft, some pieces since their appearance have been defaced by other graffiti artists, moved by local authorities to safer locations or taken down altogether.

“It’s kind of illusion magic, and that’s what draws you in,” says Renton. “It’s not high flying, it’s not deeply philosophical, it’s not hard. The accessibility is what gives him a tool to communicate.”

People gather around an artwork by street artist Banksy, the eighth to released in eight days, depicting a rhino mounting a car, on a wall in Charlton, London, on Aug. 12.

People gather around an artwork by street artist Banksy, the eighth to released in eight days, depicting a rhino mounting a car, on a wall in Charlton, London, on Aug. 12.

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Banksy published photographs of each of the works on his Instagram account, allowing him to reach a much larger global audience — with more than 13 million followers — than was possible when he was spray-painting buildings in Bristol, England, back in the 1990s.

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But he has also produced paintings and prints for commercial work, donating much of the money he earns from sales to philanthropic causes that seem to dovetail with the social criticism often reflected in his work, themes that have included U.K. politics, Israel’s war in Gaza and the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

There is no clear reason or explanation for this animal-focused art series, but some have speculated it could be in reference to the recent riots as an indication that eventually humanity has the power to destroy itself and cities like London could eventually return to nature. Another suggestion, posited by a BBC presenter, is that Banksy cares deeply about the environment, animal welfare and broader ecological issues, so the final image of a gorilla releasing other animals should apply retroactively to all the creatures in the previous images.

A woman walks past an artwork featuring two elephants, purportedly by Banksy, on a residential building on Aug. 6.

A woman walks past an artwork featuring two elephants, purportedly by Banksy, on a residential building on Aug. 6.

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A person draws artwork in front of one of the recent pieces by Banksy, in which fish adorn a a London Police box on Ludgate Hill, on Aug. 11.

A person draws artwork in front of one of the recent pieces by Banksy, in which fish adorn a a London Police box on Ludgate Hill, on Aug. 11.

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“He puts situations together which are at first, playful and comical, and humorous,” says art dealer and curator Acoris Andipa, who runs the London-based Andipa Gallery and sells Banksys worldwide. “People laugh, and then suddenly, draw, you know, suck between their teeth and just go, ‘Ouch, that’s got a sting to it.’ It’s a conversation starter.”

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Andipa sold his first Banksy work in the mid-2000s, and has since sold hundreds of Banksy’s paintings and thousands of prints. With his knowledge of the commercial market for Banksy’s work, he says the recent London series may once more remind people of the artist’s existence, but is unlikely to inflate prices for the existing work significantly.

The controversial nature of much of Banksy’s work not only criticizes public positions or government actions, but also challenges the art market and its participants — often adding to its allure.

“The anti-establishment theme that’s been so strong in a lot of Banksy’s prints, a lot of people really like that — poking fun at the art world, which there are sort of participating in,” says Jasper Tordoff, a Banksy specialist at a company called My Art Broker that bills itself as the largest private secondhand dealer of the artist’s work. “That’s, again, something that collectors really enjoy.”

Zoo staff measure up a mural of a gorilla freeing animals that adorns a shutter at the London Zoo on Aug. 13.

Zoo staff measure up a mural of a gorilla freeing animals that adorns a shutter at the London Zoo on Aug. 13.

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Tordoff says Banksy’s continued anonymity in some ways inures the artist to the pushback that confrontational stances might occasionally provoke.

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“He’s hiding behind this mask: If his identity was revealed, I think it would be much easier to say, ‘I don’t like that stance,’” Tordoff says. “Immediately you would associate, you would know much more about them.”

Almost everyone in the art world has a theory about Banksy’s real identity, a 20-plus-year mystery that’s prompted British tabloids to offer large sums of money for anyone that might help them solve it.

For Andipa, who says he has never met the artist in person but knows many people who have, Banksy’s continued success at retaining anonymity relies on several factors, including building strong relationships within an inner circle, a Robin Hood-like reputation as a philanthropist, and a certain secretive romance with street art installations.

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LeBron James Parties With Draymond Green In Cannes

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LeBron James Parties With Draymond Green In Cannes

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