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Saoirse Ronan's two new films are worlds apart. Their costumes? Not so much

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Saoirse Ronan's two new films are worlds apart. Their costumes? Not so much

No matter the century, Saoirse Ronan is going to dance. When the four-time Academy Award nominee moves to the music in her two films this season, the fabric of a blue-striped dress or a vintage silk black top with a rose print becomes one with the choreography. Despite being set more than 70 years apart, London nightlife scenes in the World War II drama “Blitz” and “The Outrun’s” 21st century tale of alcoholism and recovery each display a 1930s influence.

In “The Outrun,” adapted by director Nora Fingscheidt from Amy Liptrot’s 2016 memoir of the same name, Rona is a fictional version of the author. Charting a decade or so of Rona’s life, Ronan (who also produced the film) has around 80 costume changes, from carefree partying and the subsequent spiral in Hackney to practical outerwear after moving home to the remote Orkney Islands as part of her sobriety journey. In Steve McQueen’s big-budget “Blitz,” Ronan plays resilient single mother Rita, whose 9-year-old son, George, goes missing from an evacuation train to the countryside. Like many other Londoners, Rita kept up appearances during the war.

Here, costume designers Grace Snell and Jacqueline Durran discuss how the locations and turbulence in each story inform the vibrant looks.

For the first “Outrun” fitting, Snell arrived at Ronan’s home with five suitcases of options, including a garment steeped in personal history. “This silk vest I have had for as long as I can remember in my adult life. It was given to me by my auntie,” says Snell. “It was made by my nanny in the ’80s. They’d found a piece of fabric in a jumble sale together. It’s a 1930s piece of fabric.” Snell’s aunt wore it “during her Bananarama phase,” and in the late 2000s the costume designer partied in London nightclubs wearing the same rose top. Next up, Rona.

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2 A sketch shows Soairse Ronan in skirt, tall boots and silk tank for her out-of-control life in the city in "The Outrun."

1. The look costume designer Grace Snell created for the character’s sobriety journey in nature for “The Outrun.” (Apple) 2. Snell chose a vintage tank for Soairse Ronan’s partying days in “The Outrun.” (Apple)

Ahead of nature becoming a lifesaver back home on the Scottish island, florals hold significance in the city. Rona wears the ’30s silk tank when a dreamy summer day morphs into first kisses at a nightclub — before benders and breakups. “I think it was one of our first costumes that Saoirse and I were like, ‘This is it!’” Snell says. It was easy to envision its impact as “The Outrun’s” hair and makeup designer, Kat Morgan, had dyed Ronan’s hair a bold shade for the first fitting. “With the turquoise hair, I thought a monochromatic top would work brilliantly,” Snell says. In the dark nightclub, the top isn’t trying to pull focus: “It’s her face that is illuminated.”

A cozy black hoodie with a white unicorn (coincidentally, Scotland’s national animal) graphic “ties in with the myth and legend elements of the film,” appearing at low points in both locations. “You have a London wardrobe, an Orkney wardrobe, and then a crossover of a few bits that bounce around,” Snell says.

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Snell pulled a coat from her father’s closet that Rona wears back home and the designer borrowed from Orkney residents: “Rona’s wellies were given to us by one of the women on the farm, and I bought her a new pair as a thank-you.” No need to walk around muddy fields for authenticity: “That’s real sheep poo.” “It was important to me that lots of the clothes were lived and worn in; clothes that people have experienced wearing in those environments,” adds Snell. Overalls, oversize knits and a faux fur hat that Snell sourced but didn’t end up using for the Tilda Swinton movie “The Eternal Daughter” are part of Rona’s contrasting rural aesthetic.

Like Rona, Rita experiences bliss on the dance floor in “Blitz.” For this pivotal, joyous moment with boyfriend Marcus (CJ Beckford), before prejudice and then war tear her family apart, Rita’s striped blue frock with a shorter hemline is typical of late ’20s-early ’30s trends: “We copied it from an original, and it was very fitted from the waist over the upper hip, and then it flared so it was good for dancing.”

Rita’s dedication to looking her best in the present, whether at work in the munitions factory or going on a night out wearing a leopard-print coat, is inspired by photographic evidence. “It was almost part of the war effort to keep the front up, to keep your appearance together as much as you could, to keep morale high,” says Durran. “Putting your best foot forward even though it’s the war.”

“Blitz” is Durran’s fourth collaboration with Ronan across 17 years since they first worked together on “Atonement.” The nine-time Oscar nominee (Durran won for “Little Women” and “Anna Karenina”) observes that Ronan “has become one of our greatest movie stars,” and a showstopping “highly tailored, bold jacket” reflects the cultural status. Inspiration from adventurous late-’30s silhouettes makes Rita stand out at the train station in a sea of children ready to evacuate. “I think that’s part of movie storytelling, but I also was very conscious that I didn’t want it to be unbelievable, even though it looks like an extraordinarily big statement,” Durran says.

A woman in 1940s clothing looks concerned at a train station.

Costume designer Jacqueline Durran found not everything was drab during the Blitz, red was also “in the fashion ether at the time.”

(Parisa Taghizdeh/Apple)

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Far from all Londoners falling back on dull neutrals, Durran found red was “in the fashion ether at the time”; makeup designer Naomi Donne also goes crimson for Rita’s lipstick. While the diagonal-striped jacket and skirt are custom-built, the contrasting red polka-dot blouse and shoes are vintage. Durran pushed the period-accurate look “a touch” but didn’t want to lean too glam with Rita’s headwear. “We did try some other more classic ’40s hats on,” she says. “Because we were already doing the red jacket, I wanted to play the hat down a bit.” Crochet provided the solution: “I went for a hat that felt like you could make at home.”

Using patterns from the era, “Lots of the headscarves in the factory were also crocheted.” These details show East End women “still express themselves” even in an expected uniform environment. The same applies whether on the bus, sheltering in a tube station or sorting through the rubble. “It was about London and the multiplicity of people and realities that are there,” Durran says. “I always felt that with Rita, or with any of the principals, you were just zooming in on one aspect of life in London at that moment, of which there were millions of versions.”

Depictions of the U.K. capital wildly differ in the Ronan double bill. Yet flashbacks highlight a sartorial connection within the cityscape Rita and Rona inhabit before one leaves the metropolis behind.

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Movie Reviews

Film Review: Babygirl – SLUG Magazine

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Film Review: Babygirl – SLUG Magazine

Film

Babygirl
Director: Halina Reijn
2AM, Man Up Films
In Theaters: 12.25

I’m going to take a slight risk here and perhaps shatter the image that so many of my friends and readers have of me as a smoldering volcano of virile manhood. I’m not a widely acknowledged expert on the subject of female sexuality, and as such, I couldn’t quite relate to Babygirl, but I’m pretty sure that’s a big part of the point of it.

The film follows Romy Mathis (Nicole Kidman, The Hours), a successful career woman who has seemingly achieved everything: she’s the CEO of a Manhattan robotics company, she’s happily married to a loving husband, Jacob (Antonio Banderas, Evita, The Mask of Zorro), and has two teenage daughters, Isabel (Esther McGregor, Bleeding Love, The Room Next Door) and Nora (Vaughan Reilly, The Hunger Games:The Ballad of Songbirds and Snakes). There’s an area of Romy’s life that has always been lacking, however: she’s never felt satisfied sexually or been able to explore her need to be submissively dominated, as Jacob refuses to indulge in such sexual behavior. Enter Samuel (Harris Dickinson, Triangle of Sadness, Where The Crawdads Sing), a perceptive young intern who follows a vibe he’s sensing from Romy and starts subtly challenging her boundaries. It’s not long before the electricity between them ignites into a torrid secret relationship, as the controlling Samuel nicknames her “Babygirl” — a name he uses only when she’s met his approval — and Romy, at last, unbridles her long suppressed desires. 

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It would be very easy to dismiss Babygirl as another tawdry affair movie, and frankly, if it had been made by a man, it very likely would be. But writer-director Halina Reijn (Bodies Bodies Bodies) is going for something deeper. This is a sex-positive feminist look at the way society teaches women to approach their “role” in the act of sex, and it’s a story of self discovery. Similar themes were explored in the 2022 Sundance hit Good Luck To You, Leo Grande, which was also directed by a woman, and unless you’re our next Vice President, it’s hard to argue that female filmmakers being supported in telling such stories that lead to open discussion is overdue. It’s also a provocative and intriguing choice to explore more complex and taboo sexual dynamics in a non-judgemental, thoughtful way that just possibly may not have been definitively captured in Fifty Shades of Grey. It may not be comfortable for everyone — it certainly wasn’t for me — and yet, that doesn’t mean it should be dismissed.

Kidman’s fearless performance is spellbinding and impossible to look away from as it is often awkward to watch, and it may nab her a second Oscar. Dickinson, a magnetic and interesting young actor, is quite a presence here, definitely commanding the screen and making his character far more believable than I expected him to be. I must admit that I found myself tangentially distracted by some of the casting: for example, the choice to have Ewan McGregor’s daughter play Kidman’s daughter made my mind jump frequently jump to Moulin Rouge! Whenever I considered that Kidman spent 11 years married to Tom Cruise, I found it easy to buy that submission was her thing, and also that she’d never been properly satisfied, but where the movie lost me was in the casting of Banderas as Jacob. I can remember when 80% of the women and at least 20% of the men I hung out with were instantly brought to orgasm simply by his accent, much less by sharing a bed with him for decades, but I digress. The ensemble is stellar all around, but there’s no question that it’s Kidman’s show all the way through.

Babygirl may fall more into the category of a movie I admired than one I thoroughly enjoyed, yet there’s no denying that it provoked a response, a lot of thinking and some fascinating conversations I’ll eventually have as soon as I find someone I’m not terrified to talk about it with. It’s a bold and penetrating price of art (I regretted the choice of that word even before I typed it), and one of the most daring films I’ve seen in some time. –Patrick Gibbs 

Read more film reviews:
Film Review: Sonic The Hedgehog 3
Film Review: Nosferatu

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Who's who in the 'It Ends With Us' controversy

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Who's who in the 'It Ends With Us' controversy

The behind-the-scenes machinery of modern Hollywood burst into the open over the weekend as actor Blake Lively filed a legal complaint accusing her “It Ends With Us” director and co-star Justin Baldoni of harassment and creating a hostile on-set working environment. Also included in the complaint are allegations that Baldoni hired crisis PR operatives to wage a sophisticated online smear campaign against Lively as the movie was being released last summer.

As detailed in exhibits accompanying the legal filing, crisis management expert Melissa Nathan responded to a request from Baldoni by saying, “You know we can bury anyone.”

An adaptation of the popular novel by Colleen Hoover, the romantic drama “It Ends With Us,” details an abusive relationship. Released by Sony Pictures, the film has grossed more than $350 million worldwide.

Below is a primer on the key figures involved in the scandal.

Blake Lively

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Lively had her first breakout role in 2005’s “The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants” and its 2008 sequel. She reached a new level of stardom thanks to her leading role in the hit television series “Gossip Girl,” running from 2007 to 2012. Since then she has appeared in films such as “The Age of Adeline,” “The Shallows” and “A Simple Favor.”

In 2012, Lively married actor and producer Ryan Reynolds, which has increased her visibility and fame, as has her close friendship with superstar musician Taylor Swift. Lively made a cameo appearance in Reynolds’ 2024 hit “Deadpool & Wolverine” and said in an interview that her husband had rewritten a scene in “It Ends With Us.” Lively has more than 45 million followers on Instagram.

In a statement, Lively said of the complaint, “I hope that my legal action helps pull back the curtain on these sinister retaliatory tactics to harm people who speak up about misconduct and helps protect others who may be targeted.”

Justin Baldoni

Baldoni is an actor, director and producer who first gained broader attention by appearing on the CW series “Jane the Virgin” from 2014 to 2019. He previously directed the 2019 romantic drama “Five Feet Apart” and the 2020 biographical drama “Clouds.”

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Baldoni married actress Emily Foxler in 2013. He is also the co-host of the podcast “Man Enough,” described as exploring “what it means to be a man today and how rigid gender roles have affected all people.” Baldoni has nearly 4 million followers on Instagram.

Among the allegations against Baldoni are comments about Lively’s weight, including reaching out to her personal trainer, as well as physical touching and sexual remarks without consent. Lively requested that no more “sex scenes, oral sex or on camera climaxing” be added outside of what was already in the script.

In the filming of a scene in which her character gives birth, Lively alleges that she was pressured into being mostly nude from the chest down and that many non-essential crew members were on set as she was left exposed in a vulnerable position. Additionally, Baldoni cast a personal friend to play the OB-GYN in the scene, which Lively described as “invasive and humiliating.”

In a statement, Bryan Freedman, an attorney who represents Baldoni, Wayfarer Studios and its representatives, called Lively’s allegations “another desperate attempt to ‘fix’ her negative reputation which was garnered from her own remarks and actions during the campaign for the film. … These claims are completely false, outrageous and intentionally salacious with an intent to publicly hurt and rehash a narrative in the media.”

Of the alleged smear campaign Freedman added, “What is pointedly missing from the cherry-picked correspondence is the evidence that there were no proactive measures taken with media or otherwise; just internal scenario planning and private correspondence to strategize which is standard operating procedure with public relations professionals.”

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On Saturday, after the allegations were made public, Baldoni was dropped by talent agency WME, which also represents Lively.

Wayfarer Studios

After his five-year stint on “Jane the Virgin,” Baldoni launched his own production company in 2019. He has cited his Baha’i faith as one of the inspirations behind launching the company, whose stated mission is to “champion inspirational stories that act as true agents of social change.” Its first project, Baldoni’s directorial debut “Five Feet Apart,” a romantic drama about two cystic fibrosis patients, was released that year. It was his work on the film that Baldoni said convinced Colleen Hoover, author of “It Ends With Us,” to grant his company the rights to her book.

Wayfarer is also behind Baldoni’s weekly podcast, “Man Enough,” which aims to explore gender roles and avoid “polarizing and demonizing men and masculinity.” The studio also produced “Will & Harper,” the Netflix documentary about Will Ferrell’s road trip with his transgender best friend Harper Steele, which recently made the shortlist for a potential Academy Award nomination.

Jamey Heath

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Heath, who is named as one of the defendants in Lively’s legal complaint, is Baldoni’s close friend and colleague. In addition to serving as the chief executive officer of Wayfarer Studios and as producer on “It Ends With Us,” he is a co-host of the “Man Enough” podcast. Like Baldoni, the father of four is also a member of the Baha’i faith.

According to Lively’s complaint, on Jan. 4, 2024, Heath was part of a small meeting of “It Ends With Us” collaborators where Lively alleged that the producer and Baldoni had engaged in “inappropriate conduct” on set. Lively claimed that Heath pressured her to “simulate full nudity” in a birth scene and showed her a video of his wife in labor “fully nude … with her legs spread apart.” When Lively expressed alarm, she said, Heath replied that his wife “isn’t weird about this stuff.”

Heath insisted on taking a meeting with Lively while she was “topless and having body makeup removed,” according to the legal document. Though he agreed to keep his back turned to her, she said, he instead stared directly at her.

Steve Sarowitz

Sarowitz, the billionaire co-chairman of Wayfarer Studios, is one of the primary financiers of Baldoni’s production company, investing at least $125 million in the venture. He amassed his fortune after taking his payroll firm, Paylocity, public in 2014; he is now worth a reported $2.7 billion. Sarowitz is also a member of the Baha’i community.

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Lively’s complaint alleges that at the New York premiere of “It Ends With Us” in August, Sarowitz said he was “prepared to spend $100 million to ruin the lives of Ms. Lively and her family.” Further, the document says, Sarowitz “flew in for one of his few set visits” on the day that Lively was filming the birth scene where she only had a “small piece of fabric covering her genitalia.”

Jennifer Abel

Abel, founder and CEO of RWA Communications, is the publicist for Baldoni and Wayfarer. In July, she founded her own public relations company after serving as a partner at the communications firm Jonesworks. Her client roster is relatively small; Baldoni and actor Jameela Jamil are the most well known names she represents.

Lively’s legal complaint includes dozens of private text messages and emails between Abel, Baldoni and other communications experts that the actor claims show intent to destroy her reputation. According to those messages, Baldoni first expressed concern to Abel in May that Lively’s on-set allegations could go public. That was when Baldoni noticed that Lively’s husband, Ryan Reynolds, had blocked him on social media, the complaint says.

“HE BLOCKED YOU?! Is he a 12 year old girl?!” Abel texted Baldoni, per the document. “We can put the plan down on paper … to make sure we have all of the documentation needed of what happened on set, who witnessed what and who would be our Allies to go on background if needed to shut down her claims.”

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By then, the complaint alleges that Abel was already in touch with a crisis communications expert, Melissa Nathan, relaying that Baldoni “wants to feel like [Lively] can be buried.”

Melissa Nathan

Nathan, co-owner and CEO of the Agency Group, was officially brought in by Abel in July to work for Baldoni, according to Lively’s complaint. The document says Nathan quoted the actor a fee of up to $175,000 for three to four months of her work.

The Agency Group then created a “scenario planning” document for Wayfarer to be implemented if Lively were to make her “grievances” public. According to this document, which was cited in Lively’s complaint, one idea was to float the narrative that Lively involved Reynolds in the filmmaking to “create an ilmalance [sic] of power between her” and Baldoni. The PR firm also suggested reminding reporters that Lively has a “less than favorable reputation in the industry” and has “issues” working with Leighton Meester, Anna Kendrick and Ben Affleck.

A month before starting her work with Wayfarer, Nathan in June announced the launch of her own public relations firm after departing Hiltzik Strategies, the crisis PR firm where she was executive vice president.

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Nathan’s new company is partially owned by Ithaca Media Ventures, according to corporate registration records filed in California. Ithaca is owned by HYBE America, whose CEO is entrepreneur and former talent manager Scooter Braun. HYBE America is one of the Agency Group’s clients, along with Johnny Depp, Logan Paul and Drake.

Jed Wallace

According to Lively’s complaint, Wallace is a public relations contractor from Austin, Texas, whom the Agency Group hired to “seed and influence” negative social media discussion about the actor.

In an Aug. 9 text message referenced in the complaint, Nathan relays to Abel that Wallace said “we are crushing it on Reddit.” A day later, the alleged messages show, Abel compliments Wallace “and his team’s efforts to shift the narrative” about Baldoni.

Scooter Braun

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Braun, the former manager of Justin Bieber and Ariana Grande, now runs the U.S. arm of the South Korean entertainment company HYBE. HYBE America is a co-founder of Nathan’s company, the Agency Group, and one of its clients.

Braun has also been engaged in a years-long public dispute with Swift, who is one of Lively’s best friends. The battle between the singer and the executive began in 2019, when Braun acquired the record label Big Machine, which held the rights to the master recordings for Swift’s music from her 2006 self-titled debut to 2017’s “Reputation.” Swift responded by launching the “Taylor’s Version” series of rerecordings and rereleases of those albums.

In Lively’s complaint, Nathan sends a June text message telling the Wayfarer team that she is aware the actor “does have some of the TS fanbase so we will be taking it extremely seriously.”

Later, in the Agency Group’s “scenario planning” document, the company says its team could explore “planting stories about the weaponization of feminism and how people in BL’s circle like Taylor Swift, have been accused of utilizing these tactics to ‘bully’ into getting what they want.”

Times staff writer Matt Hamilton contributed to this report.

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Film Review: 'Better Man' Takes a Very Unusual Approach to Telling the Story of Robbie Williams – Awards Radar

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Film Review: 'Better Man' Takes a Very Unusual Approach to Telling the Story of Robbie Williams – Awards Radar
Paramount Pictures

You really can’t make a traditional biopic anymore. If there’s not something different about your film, audiences just won’t accept it these days. Cradle to the grave just doesn’t work. You either need to zoom in on a specific period in your subject’s life or tackle the genre in a different manner. With Better Man, the story of Robbie Williams has a hell of a hook, one I know most people were not expecting. It sounds bonkers, and it is, but somehow, it works.

Better Man is able to distinguish itself by taking the piss out of how traditional this biopic would otherwise be. Williams is a superstar singer, sure, but the rise, fall, and redemption angle has been done so many times before. What makes it so unique here? Well, if you’re somehow not aware, Williams is depicted at all times as a CGI chimpanzee. No one calls attention to it, ever. To everyone else, it’s just Williams. To us, and to the man himself, it’s a chimp telling his tale. Readers, it livens things up in a way that damn near stunned me.

Paramount Pictures

We meet Robbie Williams (Jonno Davies for motion capture, Williams himself for the voice) as a boy (or as a young chimp) trying to impress his performer father Peter (Steve Pemberton). That will be a through line for his whole life, especially when Peter leaves to seek his own success. Left with his mother and grandmother, he’s not much of a student, but he is a showman. Eventually, that sheer force of personality makes him a part of a boy band that blows up, managed by the dismissive Nigel Martin Smith (Damon Herriman), beginning his rise to stardom.

As he becomes more and more famous, Williams becomes a drunk and drug addict, romances Nicole Appleton (Raechelle Banno), and gets into all sorts of trouble, all the while having Peter come in and out of his life. It’s all the sort of thing you’d get bored by, if not for the man himself having so much charisma, plus…yeah, he’s a monkey the whole time. In addition, there’s a sneakily emotional ending that works way better than you’re expecting, too.

Paramount Pictures

Having Robbie Williams voice his CGI self while Jonno Davies plays him through motion capture works so much better than you’d expect it to. Truly it does. They combine to never call attention to the gimmick or to their work, instead capturing the cinematic portrait of the man. It’s real strong teamwork. That’s important, too, since the other performances more or less fade into the background. Steve Pemberton is solid, but he’s in and out of the narrative. In addition to Raechelle Banno and Damon Herriman, supporting players here include Tom Budge, Frazer Hadfield, Anthony Hayes, Kate Mulvaney, Alison Steadman, and more.

Director/co-writer Michael Gracey is emboldened by the ape aspect, which puts the film’s tongue firmly in cheek, even when covering all the expected territory. Along with co-writers Oliver Cole and Simon Gleeson, Gracey does the greatest hits, both in terms of the life story and the music. The script is nothing to get too excited about, but Gracey’s direction, which manages to never call extra attention to the chimp, is a highlight. I was not a fan of The Greatest Showman, but Gracey has won me over here. Plus, Williams himself has such personality, that shines through, helping to keep the flick from ever seeming plodding.

Better Man works because it dares to be different in one sense. The biopic aspect is more or less standard issue, but the CGI chimp, alongside Williams’ charisma, is undeniable. Plus, while the original song Forbidden Road is no longer Oscar eligible, it’s a lovely tune at the end. If you’re a Robbie Williams fan, this is a must see. Everyone else? Prepare for something more fun than you might be expecting.

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SCORE: ★★★

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