Connect with us

Entertainment

Saoirse Ronan's two new films are worlds apart. Their costumes? Not so much

Published

on

Saoirse Ronan's two new films are worlds apart. Their costumes? Not so much

No matter the century, Saoirse Ronan is going to dance. When the four-time Academy Award nominee moves to the music in her two films this season, the fabric of a blue-striped dress or a vintage silk black top with a rose print becomes one with the choreography. Despite being set more than 70 years apart, London nightlife scenes in the World War II drama “Blitz” and “The Outrun’s” 21st century tale of alcoholism and recovery each display a 1930s influence.

In “The Outrun,” adapted by director Nora Fingscheidt from Amy Liptrot’s 2016 memoir of the same name, Rona is a fictional version of the author. Charting a decade or so of Rona’s life, Ronan (who also produced the film) has around 80 costume changes, from carefree partying and the subsequent spiral in Hackney to practical outerwear after moving home to the remote Orkney Islands as part of her sobriety journey. In Steve McQueen’s big-budget “Blitz,” Ronan plays resilient single mother Rita, whose 9-year-old son, George, goes missing from an evacuation train to the countryside. Like many other Londoners, Rita kept up appearances during the war.

Here, costume designers Grace Snell and Jacqueline Durran discuss how the locations and turbulence in each story inform the vibrant looks.

For the first “Outrun” fitting, Snell arrived at Ronan’s home with five suitcases of options, including a garment steeped in personal history. “This silk vest I have had for as long as I can remember in my adult life. It was given to me by my auntie,” says Snell. “It was made by my nanny in the ’80s. They’d found a piece of fabric in a jumble sale together. It’s a 1930s piece of fabric.” Snell’s aunt wore it “during her Bananarama phase,” and in the late 2000s the costume designer partied in London nightclubs wearing the same rose top. Next up, Rona.

1

Advertisement

2 A sketch shows Soairse Ronan in skirt, tall boots and silk tank for her out-of-control life in the city in "The Outrun."

1. The look costume designer Grace Snell created for the character’s sobriety journey in nature for “The Outrun.” (Apple) 2. Snell chose a vintage tank for Soairse Ronan’s partying days in “The Outrun.” (Apple)

Ahead of nature becoming a lifesaver back home on the Scottish island, florals hold significance in the city. Rona wears the ’30s silk tank when a dreamy summer day morphs into first kisses at a nightclub — before benders and breakups. “I think it was one of our first costumes that Saoirse and I were like, ‘This is it!’” Snell says. It was easy to envision its impact as “The Outrun’s” hair and makeup designer, Kat Morgan, had dyed Ronan’s hair a bold shade for the first fitting. “With the turquoise hair, I thought a monochromatic top would work brilliantly,” Snell says. In the dark nightclub, the top isn’t trying to pull focus: “It’s her face that is illuminated.”

A cozy black hoodie with a white unicorn (coincidentally, Scotland’s national animal) graphic “ties in with the myth and legend elements of the film,” appearing at low points in both locations. “You have a London wardrobe, an Orkney wardrobe, and then a crossover of a few bits that bounce around,” Snell says.

Advertisement

Snell pulled a coat from her father’s closet that Rona wears back home and the designer borrowed from Orkney residents: “Rona’s wellies were given to us by one of the women on the farm, and I bought her a new pair as a thank-you.” No need to walk around muddy fields for authenticity: “That’s real sheep poo.” “It was important to me that lots of the clothes were lived and worn in; clothes that people have experienced wearing in those environments,” adds Snell. Overalls, oversize knits and a faux fur hat that Snell sourced but didn’t end up using for the Tilda Swinton movie “The Eternal Daughter” are part of Rona’s contrasting rural aesthetic.

Like Rona, Rita experiences bliss on the dance floor in “Blitz.” For this pivotal, joyous moment with boyfriend Marcus (CJ Beckford), before prejudice and then war tear her family apart, Rita’s striped blue frock with a shorter hemline is typical of late ’20s-early ’30s trends: “We copied it from an original, and it was very fitted from the waist over the upper hip, and then it flared so it was good for dancing.”

Rita’s dedication to looking her best in the present, whether at work in the munitions factory or going on a night out wearing a leopard-print coat, is inspired by photographic evidence. “It was almost part of the war effort to keep the front up, to keep your appearance together as much as you could, to keep morale high,” says Durran. “Putting your best foot forward even though it’s the war.”

“Blitz” is Durran’s fourth collaboration with Ronan across 17 years since they first worked together on “Atonement.” The nine-time Oscar nominee (Durran won for “Little Women” and “Anna Karenina”) observes that Ronan “has become one of our greatest movie stars,” and a showstopping “highly tailored, bold jacket” reflects the cultural status. Inspiration from adventurous late-’30s silhouettes makes Rita stand out at the train station in a sea of children ready to evacuate. “I think that’s part of movie storytelling, but I also was very conscious that I didn’t want it to be unbelievable, even though it looks like an extraordinarily big statement,” Durran says.

A woman in 1940s clothing looks concerned at a train station.

Costume designer Jacqueline Durran found not everything was drab during the Blitz, red was also “in the fashion ether at the time.”

(Parisa Taghizdeh/Apple)

Advertisement

Far from all Londoners falling back on dull neutrals, Durran found red was “in the fashion ether at the time”; makeup designer Naomi Donne also goes crimson for Rita’s lipstick. While the diagonal-striped jacket and skirt are custom-built, the contrasting red polka-dot blouse and shoes are vintage. Durran pushed the period-accurate look “a touch” but didn’t want to lean too glam with Rita’s headwear. “We did try some other more classic ’40s hats on,” she says. “Because we were already doing the red jacket, I wanted to play the hat down a bit.” Crochet provided the solution: “I went for a hat that felt like you could make at home.”

Using patterns from the era, “Lots of the headscarves in the factory were also crocheted.” These details show East End women “still express themselves” even in an expected uniform environment. The same applies whether on the bus, sheltering in a tube station or sorting through the rubble. “It was about London and the multiplicity of people and realities that are there,” Durran says. “I always felt that with Rita, or with any of the principals, you were just zooming in on one aspect of life in London at that moment, of which there were millions of versions.”

Depictions of the U.K. capital wildly differ in the Ronan double bill. Yet flashbacks highlight a sartorial connection within the cityscape Rita and Rona inhabit before one leaves the metropolis behind.

Advertisement
Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Movie Reviews

Review | Daughter’s Daughter: Sylvia Chang anchors intricate women’s drama

Published

on

Review | Daughter’s Daughter: Sylvia Chang anchors intricate women’s drama

3.5/5 stars

A widow in her sixties with a pair of estranged daughters is confronted with a difficult decision following a family tragedy in Huang Xi’s thoughtful drama Daughter’s Daughter.

Winner of the 2024 Golden Horse Awards prize for best screenplay at a ceremony in Taiwan in November, the film explores the strained relationships between parents and their children in a society that is losing sight of traditional filial duties.

Veteran actress Sylvia Chang Ai-chia gives one of her most nuanced and understated performances in recent memory as Jin, an ageing Taiwanese widow who is forced to travel to New York after her younger daughter, Zuer (Eugenie Liu Yi-er), dies in a car accident with her lesbian partner, Jiayi (Tracy Chou).

The couple were trying for a baby via IVF treatment and a viable embryo survives them, with Jin now the legal guardian. While wrestling with the grief of losing her child, Jin is burdened with the impossible task of deciding the fate of her as-yet unborn grandchild.

The tragedy also brings her back into contact with Emma (Karena Lam Ka-yan), the elder daughter she had when still a teenager and subsequently gave up for adoption.
Continue Reading

Entertainment

Beverly Glenn-Copeland’s triumphant L.A. debut coincides with forthcoming doc about his dementia

Published

on

Beverly Glenn-Copeland’s triumphant L.A. debut coincides with forthcoming doc about his dementia

“This took 30 years to write,” Beverly Glenn-Copeland says, laughing, remembering how his song “Prince Caspian’s Dream” came to him in small increments every 10 years starting in the 1990s.

A room of fans and artists wearing their red-carpet best in a downtown L.A. loft hung on Glenn (his preferred name) and his creative and life partner Elizabeth Glenn-Copeland’s every word and note Saturday afternoon. Zooming in from their home in Hamilton, Canada, they shared stories, songs and sacred objects: cherished photos, a Christmas mouse, even a sacred pickle. “This is my alter ego,” Glenn said, holding up a picture of a turtle, “it takes me a very long time to get to any place in my life.”

In 2015, Glenn’s self-released 1986 album “Keyboard Fantasies” received critical acclaim, global recognition and a new life when Ryota Masuko started importing tapes directly from him to collectors in Japan, which was the subject of a 2019 documentary. In the years since, Glenn’s status has gone from local artist to internationally respected genius; this year he’s collaborated with Sam Smith and Devendra Banhart, received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his queer activism, and an honorary doctorate from the University of Toronto. While Glenn is happy that his work has a wider reach today than it did in 1986, he was never waiting around for anyone to find him. A Black trans elder who has refused to sacrifice himself or his art for the sake of playing by the rules, he has cultivated a diverse fan base that finds inspiration and hope in his music and life story. Glenn has always been an active and inspired visionary who sees his music and art connected to a personal and spiritual path. And nothing, not even dementia, can ever change that.

The Glenn-Copelands, accompanied by pianist Alex Samaras, performed Saturday for Level Ground Co.’s Re-Union: 10 Year Anniversary Soirée. Level Ground Co. is an artist collective and production company focused on telling empathetic and experimental stories, supporting diverse creatives, particularly those who are queer, transgender and people of color. The organization hopes to create an “eco-system and community” of artists, co-director Yétúndé Olágbajú said. Level Ground Co, along with artist Josephine Shetty of Pride Month Barbie, worked together to make the soiree an intentional event that embodied this sentiment; indigo dying napkins, sourcing artist-created cakes, drinks and food, and booking DJ Jihaari to remix Glenn’s catalog with dance music.

The celebration doubled as a filming location for “See You Tomorrow,” a new documentary by Level Ground Collective co-founder and co-directors Samantha Curley and Chase Joynt, about the couple’s journey navigating Glenn’s dementia diagnosis. In the film they contemplate complex decisions about his care and well-being while they embark on a mission to preserve his artistic legacy. It also follows them as they work to leave creative offerings for their loved ones, and for the ones ahead.

Advertisement

After a career spanning seven decades, this was Glenn’s first-ever L.A. concert, and he received an incredibly warm welcome. Originally scheduled to be in-person, Level Ground Co. pivoted when the Glenn-Copelands learned that they could not travel to L.A. due to some recent health concerns. The event was an experimental afternoon of singing songs, sharing stories and poetry, and some never-before-seen personal and performance footage. People danced, cried, and sang along, sometimes sustaining Glenn and Elizabeth’s notes, keeping the physical and spiritual connection alive in L.A. in the few moments that digital tech difficulties cut it short.

The crowd at Level Ground Co.’s Re-Union: 10 Year Anniversary Soirée in downtown L.A. watch Beverly Glenn-Copeland and his wife Elizabeth perform via Zoom. The couple were originally scheduled to perform in person but had to switch to a virtual performance due to Glenn’s health concerns.

(Tina June Malek)

“What’s manifested through Glenn and Elizabeth performing virtually is an extraordinary opportunity for the film,” Joynt said, describing the twin film teams, one with Glenn and Elizabeth at their home in Hamilton and one in L.A. “From an audience perspective, you’re going to be able to see that these rooms are vibrating and breathing and living for and through each other. If I do my job right, we will obliterate the Zoom screen.” Curley thinks of this as one of the most hopeful projects she’s been a part of that feels urgent and gentle. “To be close to Glenn and Elizabeth, to be in their world of deep, queer, chosen family is such an honor and a privilege,” said Curley.

Advertisement

Glenn and his wife Elizabeth’s journey together started in the 1990s when she sang backup for Glenn at benefit shows. Their queer love story heated up in 2007, when, after psychic visions in the dream realm and a notorious night of furious dancing at a friend’s wedding, the pair became an inseparable team. Their love continues to unfold around collaborations, social justice advocacy, music and steadfast commitments for each other and their communities. Take for example their work at Kidplayhouse Productions; a not-for-profit theater school the couple founded and sustained for nearly a decade on the Acadian Coast of Canada that provided healing arts programming and education for kids and adults.

Earlier this year, Glenn and Elizabeth announced that the couple were privately navigating a difficult time while also experiencing a massive creative renewal. Glenn made his dementia diagnosis public and declared that his 2024 tour would be his last. However, he and Elizabeth are still working on new projects including music, children’s programming with puppets, and a new book. After the success of Saturday’s event they may be considering doing more hybrid performances.

“As humans and artists, there’s a lot to face, but we are determined to look at where the life is,” Elizabeth said. “As parts of Glenn’s brain are dying, there are parts of him that are actually more alive than I have ever seen. There’s a great deal of beauty interwoven with a great deal of pain.” In thinking about how they proceed in this chapter of their life, and how humanity can overcome the daunting challenges of rising fascism, racism, transphobia and climate disaster, she invokes a lesson from Los Angeles artist-activist (and nun) Corita Kent. Rule No. 4, which also happens to be Level Ground Co.’s current inspiration, demands that students and artists “consider everything an experiment.”

Shot of a vinyl copy of Beverly Glenn-Copeland's 2023 album "The Ones Ahead" at the DJ booth during Saturday's performance.

Shot of a vinyl copy of Beverly Glenn-Copeland’s 2023 album “The Ones Ahead” at the DJ booth during Saturday’s performance.

(Tina June Malek)

Advertisement

Glenn’s work has long reveled in the experimental. A groundbreaking album in folk, ambient and electronic music, “Keyboard Fantasies” was composed with only a Roland TR-707 drum machine, a Yamaha Dx7 keyboard, a (at the time) cutting-edge Atari Computer, and Glenn’s unparalleled three-octave vocal range. Optimism and care are themes you could gather from his music without knowing any of his lyrics; “Keyboard Fantasies’” soft and cosmic melodies resonate like a dawning horizon, a message in a bottle retrieved 30 years later by both its recipients and its sender with codes and keys to help us make sense of our ever-changing world. He and Elizabeth opened their set Saturday with the album’s “Let Us Dance,” moving together as Samaras played the instrumental outro on their home piano.

Glenn also performed an a capella version of “Deep River,” his syncopated low voice and skilled falsetto moving the entire room into snaps, whistles and screams. A spiritual written in the 19th century, it is embedded with coded information about the Underground Railroad, Glenn explained. “Jordan” was code for the Ohio River, and “Campground” was code for a community for Black people who were successful in escaping enslavement. He closed this song with a dynamic djembe beat, moving through multiple time signatures.

Glenn and Elizabeth played a string of sold-out shows during fall in New York and Canada that Joynt and Curley filmed. Glenn won the 2024 Joyce Warshow Lifetime Achievement Award from SAGE, an organization that focuses on advocacy and services for LGBTQ+ elders. He and Elizabeth were also a part of Red Hot Org’s new album “Transa,” a massive collection of work from a diverse community of over 100 musicians and artists including (but not limited to) Sade, Eileen Myles, Hunter Schafer, Clairo, Sam Smith and many others, celebrating trans and nonbinary music, and bringing awareness and support to transgender rights.

“In this era of intense backlash against trans rights and freedoms, it felt like a profound and timely gift to collaborate with Sam Smith on a version of ‘Ever New’ for the next generation,” Glenn said. The two formed an instant connection in the studio. “There’s great love there,” Elizabeth remarked, remembering that “as they were hugging, Copeland said, I’m adopting you.” Smith said that singing with Glenn was one of the most important and beautiful moments of their musical life. The backlash against trans rights is palpable this week, as Chase Strangio makes history as the first openly transgender attorney to argue before the Supreme Court, challenging Tennessee’s ban on transgender healthcare — which is expected to be upheld, despite the Biden administration calling it unconstitutional.

The new documentary challenges and complicates one-dimensional narratives about dementia. Working on this has helped both the filmmakers and the doc’s main subjects reimagine staying connected through music and art alongside some of the inevitable changes of aging. Saturday’s event also presented an opportunity to reimagine what supporting aging artists, as fans and as producers, could look like.

Advertisement

“See You Tomorrow” is an unfolding trans history, a living portrait of a queer extended family, rather than a reflection on something that’s happened in the past. It bears “witness to an extraordinary love story as it is still unfolding,” Joynt says.

A crowd watches Beverly Glenn-Copeland and his wife, Elizabeth, perform virtually from their home in Hamilton, Canada

A crowd watches Beverly Glenn-Copeland and his wife, Elizabeth, perform virtually from their home in Hamilton, Canada

(Tina June Malek)

Queer and trans musicians are often described in relation to time: generally, as being ahead of their time, playing in strange time, or living creative lives outside of values and timelines marked as acceptable by rules of mainstream society. The ahead-of-their-time arc has often plagued stories about so-called forgotten and avant-garde queer talent from electronic to classical genres. It is often queer artists and artists of color like Glenn who inspire culture, change genres and creative fields, rarely benefiting financially from their visions and innovations, but still creating.

As the couple received a roaring ovation at the end of their set on Saturday, Glenn held up a handwritten sign to the camera. The message, scrawled on a white sheet of paper, read “I love you.” For many fans, Glenn represents beloved elders of the queer community and his music is also a love letter to younger generations.

Advertisement

“Glenn’s life and legacy is so precious because we have so few trans elders,” Elizabeth says, noting the historic importance of sharing her husband’s story. “We want to leave this world in a way where we have touched lives, shaken people out of stupors, and woken people up. … In all the years, when nobody knew who the heck we were, we were traveling around from place to place; it’s always been about community.”

Continue Reading

Movie Reviews

Andrew Bell’s ‘BLEEDING’ (2024) – Movie Review – PopHorror

Published

on

Andrew Bell’s ‘BLEEDING’ (2024) – Movie Review – PopHorror

I’ve seen good films and I’ve seen bad films. This is, indeed, not a good film by any stretch of the imagination. 

Evidently, a new drug that is adjacent to vampire blood is being bought and sold on the black market for profit and pleasure, which already sounds like something from a Bram Stoker rip-off novel. Sean is a young drug dealer who gets his cousin Eric “into some deep shit,” as the characters would put it. Sean’s dad destroys the drugs in a fit of rage and owes money to the people who loaned it to him. 

Let’s just get this out of the way. This movie is bad and for all the reasons that you might think. For starters, the dialogue is horrendous and sounds like something from a Grand Theft Auto game, where every other word is profanity. It seems like the writer was writing the script for a film project while in college and forgot to add character development (or characters that we cared about). 

Moreover, the plot has already been played so many times. How many times do we have to see a virus ravage the people of a town (or the entire world) and watch it slowly destroy the people in the film little by little? I’m no stranger to a virus movie and I’m certainly on board with a good one. I’ve even made a few virus-related films. It would have been nice to see the filmmakers do something différent with the material.

Advertisement

Finally, the acting is laughably terrible. There is way too much overacting, with screaming and shouting in every other scene. It’s like watching an episode of a Vikings series, with all of the characters are yelling at each other. 

All in all, this movie was something that had no purpose and was bereft of character development, which makes me wonder how the film managed to get made. 

 

Advertisement
Continue Reading

Trending