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DTLA’s once-famed nightlife is flailing. Can this cozy DJ bar bring crowds back?

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DTLA’s once-famed nightlife is flailing. Can this cozy DJ bar bring crowds back?

On a Saturday night, just an hour after the Dodgers won the World Series, Bar Franca started heating up. The freshly revamped, DJ-driven lounge in downtown’s historic core filled out with loft-dwelling locals still getting mileage from their Halloween costumes, while incoming Dodger fans hooted and revved their engines out on Main Street. The bar’s owner, concert promoter Rolando Alvarez, was off tending to another event, but Bar Franca’s two DJ’s for the night, Maddy Maia and Tottie of Sisters of Sound, wound up the ebullient crowd under a soft pink, hand-painted barrel roof.

If you squinted, you could have sworn it was 2019 again, back when downtown L.A.was the heart of the city’s nightlife before the pandemic knocked it sideways.

“Downtown needs an injection. It still feels like it’s been a struggle bouncing back in that area since COVID,” Maia said between sets. “I think it’s so important to invest in areas that have suffered and have been somewhat forgotten about. I’m so grateful that Bar Franca is bringing life back to that part of the city.”

“Downtown is still an amazing place, and all the business owners here have high hopes, but they also need a little bit of help,” said Bar Franca’s Rolando Alvarez.

(Carlin Stiehl/For The Times)

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This year has seen unrelenting bad news for L.A. nightlife — the impacts of the wildfires, the continued Hollywood strike fallout, the cost-of-living crisis and ICE raids and protests that temporarily squelched downtown’s after-dark industry. That all came on top of a miserable post-pandemic environment for a vulnerable downtown neighborhood hit harder and longer than most.

Bar Franca, a passion project from one of the city’s elite dance music promoters, is a little sliver of re-growth in a neighborhood that desperately needs one.

“Downtown is still an amazing place, and all the business owners here have high hopes, but they also need a little bit of help,” Alvarez said. “We’re doing our best to have people back on the streets, from all corners and all sensibilities, coming and being like, ‘I want to hang out in downtown.’ But how do we take care of it? How do we get there?”

After two decades of hopeful growth and global cachet as a nightlife destination, downtown L.A. has suffered tremendously post-pandemic. While its resident population has stabilized and grown, a citywide shift to working from home, the ongoing tragedy of homelessness and recent political turmoil have added to the challenges for local restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Many beloved nightspots have closed, or worry they will soon.

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Cole’s, which survived the Great Depression and two world wars but couldn’t withstand the current economy, will shutter Dec. 31, though the venue is currently up for sale. Concert hall the Mayan, which opened in 1927, closed after 35 years in its current incarnation. In the summer, after a lawsuit from a former employee, the sprawling queer bar Precinct said on Instagram that “We’re a couple of slow weekends away from having to close our doors. Like many small businesses, we’ve taken hit after hit — from COVID shutdowns and ICE raids to citywide curfews and the ongoing decline of nightlife.”

Patrons enjoy drinks at a table at Bar Franca in Los Angeles.

Patrons in Halloween costumes enjoy drinks at a table at Bar Franca in Los Angeles.

(Carlin Stiehl/For The Times)

From glamorous flagships like the Ace Hotel to locals-only dives like Hank’s, downtown has lost a lot of the places that made it such a compelling place to live and party. While some new spots like the Level 8 complex, Issa Rae’s bar Lost and the delightfully divey Uncle Ollie’s Penthouse have opened, even a booster group like the Central City Assn. of Los Angeles admitted in its September “Revive DTLA” report that “Downtown faces existential challenges. The pandemic, homelessness, ongoing immigration raids, and other crises have hit DTLA harder than other communities….The last five years have clearly demonstrated how a lack of representation and focused support can shift the trajectory of a neighborhood.”

“Every downtown in the country has experienced challenges since the pandemic, but what had been a virtuous cycle of growth is now a vicious cycle,” said Nella McOsker, the president and chief executive of the Central City Assn. “There’s huge potential for nightlife to succeed in downtown because the residential base is there. But when the street level experience or the perception of downtown is so fragile, we have to get it right for a safe and welcoming environment.”

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Alvarez knows that as well as anyone. The founder of Midnight Lovers — a decade-old independent concert promoter focused on dance music, one much-acclaimed in its scene — lives just a few blocks from Bar Franca.

Franca first opened in 2018 as an alluringly feminine cocktail spot next door to the Regent Theater. With hand-painted Art Deco flourishes and an ear for great tunes (the bar used to house the electronic music record store Stellar Remnant in the back), Franca had a couple of exuberant pre-pandemic years before the surrounding area, just a block from Skid Row, began to backslide.

When Alvarez, a regular, heard the owners were thinking of selling this year, he leapt to invest in a permanent address for Midnight Lovers in the heart of downtown. Although Alvarez already leased a larger event space just over the L.A. River for his concerts, Franca was the kind of spot he’d be pained to lose in his neighborhood.

“If you live downtown, you know there’s only like a handful of places that have a nice atmosphere when it comes to music,” Alvarez said. “Someone brought me here a long time ago, and something about it felt so cozy. Sometimes we feel like going to the warehouse, sometimes we feel like the club, sometimes we feel like a nice little cocktail. I still feel like smaller, more intimate places is where the magic is.”

Franca’s physical interior hasn’t changed too much since the handoff in October (though the cocktail menu, from Broken Shaker’s Gabriel Orta and Jonny Child, now leans a little more seasonal and N/A friendly). What’s different is its aspirations to join the small list of bars — like Highland Park’s Gold Line and Lincoln Heights’ Zizou — that work as the front porch for L.A.’s club scene.

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DJ Tottie spins dance music at Bar Franca on Saturday, Nov. 1, 2025 in Los Angeles, CA.

“I love playing and going to late night parties, but that’s not for everyone, and there aren’t many spots in L.A. who prioritize this sound,” said DJ Tottie. “Having a slice of what you can get at Midnight Lovers in Bar Franca’s setting for free, with great cocktails and being in bed by 2:30 a.m., is a winner.”

(Carlin Stiehl/For The Times)

His typical shows are larger (and post-pandemic, younger-skewing) sets of house, techno and disco. But “it’s always been a dream to have something small,” Alvarez said.

As the street scene in downtown has gotten more erratic, and the costs and hassle of trekking to far-flung venues has escalated, he acknowledged that “friends have hinted that it’d be nice to have something low key, like if you’re on a date or have people from out of town that didn’t feel like going to a warehouse. We’re always morphing and developing, and at this moment, that’s where I want to be.”

The first thing Alvarez did was truck in a new hi-fi system and put Franca’s busy slate of DJ programming quite literally front and center behind the bar. For wizened millennials who might not have the juice to stay out until 6 a.m. at a warehouse party, or for young artists and promoters looking for a small room to re-cultivate local music scenes lost to the pandemic, these DJ-driven bars have become incredibly important.

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“Being from the U.K., we grew up with so many drinking holes, which offer a sense of community — not just a rave,” DJ Tottie said on a break from her set. “I love playing and going to late night parties, but that’s not for everyone, and there aren’t many spots in L.A. who prioritize this sound. So having a slice of what you can get at Midnight Lovers in Bar Franca’s setting for free, with great cocktails and being in bed by 2:30 a.m., is a winner.”

Franca keeping its lights on is just as important for downtowners, who have had reason to wonder if their neighborhood will remain a vital place to go out at night. With so many generations-old venues closing, a sense of doom can become self-fulfilling.

“Living in downtown after 2020, it was back to back to back on different things that weren’t great for us,” Alvarez said. “But I still live downtown, and every time there’s a new business or something cool opening, I get happy, because there’s nothing more heartbreaking than to do my morning walk and see more for-lease signs up. If you see one or two, it’s fine, but if you start to see more it gets in your head, like, ‘What’s really happening?’ ”

Nicole Williams makes drinks at Bar Franca

Nicole Williams makes drinks at Bar Franca in Los Angeles.

(Carlin Stiehl/For The Times)

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McOsker said that street-level nightlife is a bellwether for the broader downtown economy, and the community’s social health. “It matters a lot. What does it mean that a century-old institution like Cole’s closes in 2025 when it survived two world wars?” she said. “I hear people lament what kinds of social fabric were eroded in the pandemic. But I’m bullish on the nighttime economy as an anchor of downtown’s appeal, which is all more reason to keep reinvesting in it. It’s an ecosystem you can’t get anywhere else.”

Even amid the overlapping crises of homelessness, fires, economic travails, righteously disruptive protests, downtown has too much appeal to stay down forever. Franca alone doesn’t herald a revival, but it might get music fans back in the habit of cutting loose on Main.

“The architecture is still great here, there are still amazing places and you’re central to everything,” Alvarez said. “Midnight Lovers has always been driven by this little area. I have high hopes because downtown is so great and a lot of creatives still live in these buildings, even if some don’t want to go out because things aren’t the way they used to be from 2015-19. I think it’s going to take effort from all of us.”

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Reminders of Him Movie Review: A thoughtful look at guilt, loss and second chances

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Reminders of Him Movie Review: A thoughtful look at guilt, loss and second chances

Story: After serving a prison sentence, Kenna returns to her hometown hoping to rebuild her life and meet the daughter she has never known. As the child’s grandparents refuse to forgive her, Kenna finds an unexpected ally in Ledger.Review: ‘Reminders of Him’ carries the weight of expectation that often follows adaptations of novels by Colleen Hoover. Hoover’s books have an enormous following, and any screen version inevitably carries the hopes of readers who already have an emotional relationship with the story. The film stays close to the spirit of the novel, focusing on grief, regret, and the possibility of rebuilding a life after a life-altering mistake. Caswill presents a drama that moves through heavy emotions without turning the film into a spectacle of suffering. The story is intimate and restrained, though it sometimes struggles to escape the familiar patterns of contemporary romantic dramas. Still, the film finds enough sincerity in its central idea to remain engaging.The film revolves around Kenna (Maika Monroe), a young woman who returns to her hometown after serving a seven-year prison sentence connected to a tragic accident that killed her boyfriend, Scotty (Rudy Pankow). During the years she spent in prison, Kenna gave birth to a daughter, Diem, whom she has never been able to meet. Diem (Zoe Kosovic) is now being raised by Scotty’s parents, Grace (Lauren Graham) and Patrick Landry (Bradley Whitford). The Landrys want nothing to do with Kenna and are determined to keep her away from the girl. Kenna’s only unexpected ally turns out to be Ledger (Tyriq Withers), Scotty’s close friend. As their relationship grows more complicated, Kenna tries to prove that she deserves a place in her daughter’s life, even as the town continues to view her only through the memory of the accident.Caswill approaches the material with a steady and gentle style. The film avoids heightened drama and instead spends most of its time observing how guilt and resentment shape everyday interactions. Conversations shown in the film carry much of the emotional weight, and the story often unfolds in small moments. It’s a film that does not believe in confrontation, and it is largely absent in the film. This approach works well in the early stretches, where the tension between characters feels believable. However, the screenplay sometimes resorts to convenient developments that make the journey feel smoother than it probably should be. Some conflicts resolve too neatly, yet the film’s focus on forgiveness gives the story its moral compass.Monroe carries the story with a restrained portrayal of Kenna, avoiding exaggerated displays of grief. She plays the character as someone who has spent years learning how to live quietly with the consequences of her actions. Her expressions often reveal more than the dialogue, and that understatement works well for a character who feels she has already said too much in life. Withers brings warmth to Ledger, presenting him as a man caught between loyalty to the Landry family and a growing understanding of Kenna’s pain. Graham and Whitford give the Landrys emotional credibility; their resistance toward Kenna comes across as something rooted in genuine heartbreak.‘Reminders of Him’ reveals both its strengths and its limits. The story’s central idea, that people can attempt to rebuild their lives even after causing deep harm, is handled with care, but the path toward that message sometimes feels familiar. Caswill’s direction keeps the film sincere, and the performances prevent it from slipping into emotional excess. This is a soothing film that is earnest and watchable, carried by thoughtful acting and a clear emotional purpose. It suggests that forgiveness often arrives slowly and that rebuilding trust can be a far longer journey than losing it. This film does not turn the wheel in its genre, but the gentle pace and tone have a certain appeal.

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Review: Under the volcano, a city converses with its past in the haunting ‘Pompei: Below the Clouds’

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Review: Under the volcano, a city converses with its past in the haunting ‘Pompei: Below the Clouds’

In Naples, Italy, the past isn’t relegated to what’s behind us. In its crumbled, ancient majesty, the past is quite visible. And when it comes to the legacy of Mount Vesuvius — able to change the sky and move the earth — history encompasses all that’s above and plenty that’s subterranean, too.

The notion of Naples as a place in perpetual contact with its ghostly, grand history, whether you’re a citizen living on top of it or a visitor passing through, is what gives Gianfranco Rosi’s patient, eccentric documentary “Pompei: Below the Clouds” its strangely beautiful atmosphere of reflection and restlessness. Like a cagey docent who would rather guide your attention than talk your ear off, Rosi (“Fire at Sea”) trusts your own curiosity, in turn bringing thoughtful life to this city portrait of people and places.

The result — from the tunnels carved out by tomb robbers to the trains that run day and night — is a cinematic gift for the senses and specifically, to paraphrase one of the more philosophical characters, about our understanding of time’s ability to both preserve and destroy.

Shot in richly textured black and white with a fixed camera, Rosi makes the region’s present look as if it’s always teetering on the edge of a haunting archival status. He returns often to an empty, dilapidated cinema projecting the past (snatches of the silent “The Last Days of Pompeii,” Rossellini’s “Journey to Italy” and older documentaries) as if seeking kinship with earlier chroniclers. And maybe to gently remind us that moviegoing is as endangered by shifting sensibilities as are people who live in the shadow of a volcano, one whose AD 79 eruption is a civilizational marker nobody there can truly escape.

The company Rosi seeks out all seem to be stewards of that connection, whether to the weight of history or each other. There’s the lab-coated museum curator who treats statues in underground storage as dignified friends worth revisiting. A Japanese archaeological crew amid ruins and scaffolding is eager to meet undiscovered victims of Pompeii’s devastation. Even the prosecutor touring a buried villa that’s become a crime scene, illegally stripped of its frescoes, bemoans what’s been lost when thieves rob a people of their ancestors’ memories.

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Meanwhile, dedicated fire department operators answer every Neapolitan’s phoned-in worry, primarily about the threat posed by their biggest, oldest neighbor, whose every belch of smoke and gas (a favorite insert shot of Rosi’s) is its own warning that time is precious. To the Syrian sailors transporting grain from Odessa, however, docking in Naples is a respite compared to the danger in their homeland and the war in Ukraine. For abiding calm and a belief in the future, there are drop-ins with veteran teacher Titti — the movie’s most endearing figure — who runs an after-school tutoring center for local schoolchildren.

There’s an intimate breadth to the warp, woof and weave of “Pompei: Below the Clouds,” which is masterfully edited by Fabrizio Federico and boasts an enveloping score by “The Brutalist” Oscar winner Daniel Blumberg. Just don’t expect to know Naples by the end. Rosi’s artistry grasps the limitations of being a long-term guest, visually juxtaposing the ancient and elemental, busts and people. Absorbing this well-chosen album is a treat, and a chance to appreciate the delicate mortality that thrives in a place simultaneously enormous, eternal and ephemeral.

‘Pompei: Below the Clouds’

In Italian, English, Arabic and Japanese, with subtitles

Not rated

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Running time: 1 hour, 55 minutes

Playing: Opens Friday, March 13 at Laemmle Royal

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‘Late Shift’ movie review: Leonie Benesch’s Sisyphean ward of one

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‘Late Shift’ movie review: Leonie Benesch’s Sisyphean ward of one

A still from ‘Late Shift’
| Photo Credit: Zodiac Pictures Ltd

A camera glides down a hospital corridor while a nurse moves fast enough that the fluorescent lights seem to blur behind her. Someone is waiting for test results that will probably change their life. Someone else wants tea. A trainee is panicking. Some infernal machine is beeping relentlessly somewhere out of sight. Drop into these opening minutes cold, and you might reasonably assume Dr Robbie or some equally sleep-deprived resident of Pittsburgh Trauma Medical Centre is about to round the corner with a sarcastic aside and a chart that’s already overdue. Still, the resemblance lasts just long enough to be amusing before Petra Volpe’s Late Shift makes its intentions clear. This is certainly not a Swiss spinoff of The Pitt, but Volpe uses the grammar of that genre as a starting point and strips away its episodic escalation in favour of a slow, exhausting accumulation of routine tasks that gradually expose how fragile the entire system actually is.

The filmmaker’s earlier feature, The Divine Order, explored Swiss social change through a buoyant historical comedy, but she now moves in the opposite direction here, with a story that transpires almost entirely over one punishing evening in a Zurich surgical ward. The screenplay draws inspiration from German nurse Madeline Calvelage’s nonfiction account of hospital life, and the premise could not be simpler: a nurse arrives for the late shift and discovers that the ward is operating with barely enough staff to function.

Late Shift (German)

Director: Petra Volpe

Cast: Leonie Benesch, Sonja Riesen, Selma Aldin, Jasmin Mattei, Jürg Plüss

Runtime: 90 minutes

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Storyline: A dedicated nurse, tirelessly serves in an understaffed hospital ward. However, one day her shift becomes a tense and urgent race against the clock

Switzerland later selected the film as its submission for the International Feature category at the 98th Academy Awards, which places Leonie Benesch at the centre of a career stretch defined by characters who keep their composure while institutions around them wobble. Benesch became widely recognised through Germany’s 2023 Oscar submission The Teachers’ Lounge, where she played a teacher navigating a spiralling school scandal, then stepped into the broadcast room chaos of the Munich Olympics drama September 5, and earlier appeared in The Crown. Now, with Late Shift, Benesch turns those instincts into something close to a workplace pressure cooker.

The film unfolds through a chain reaction of ordinary tasks that gradually become overwhelming. Twenty-six patients require attention, and the ward operates with two nurses and a trainee who still hesitates before every decision. One elderly man waits for a cancer diagnosis that a doctor has no time to deliver. A dying woman’s sons hover in the corridor, demanding updates. A young mother with cancer wonders whether treatment still holds meaning. A businessman in a private room calculates his hospital fees in the currency of prompt service and grows irritated when his tea arrives late. Benesch’s Floria moves from room to room, absorbing each request while supervising the nervous student nurse, Amelie. The script rarely pauses to reflect on emotions because the pressure and stress of the work are relentless. So a lullaby sung to calm a confused woman with dementia delays the next task, and a brief conversation about dog photographs offers a lonely patient a moment of human attention — each small act of kindness costs a few minutes, and those minutes accumulate until the ward begins to outrun the people trying to hold it together.

A still from ‘Late Shift’

A still from ‘Late Shift’
| Photo Credit:
Zodiac Pictures Ltd

Volpe stages this environment with a controlled minimalism. Judith Kaufmann’s camera trails Benesch through the corridors with persistence while Hansjörg Weissbrich’s editing maintains the sense that several crises are unfolding at once. Benesch carries the film through physical detail and eschews any semblance of theatricality. Her stride across the ward is purposeful and mechanical, her hands repeat the rituals of sanitiser, syringes and charts, and her voice remains calm even as the shift pushes her toward exhaustion. The film’s social texture emerges through those interactions. Nurses perform the constant maintenance that keeps the hospital running while doctors rarely appear, if at all. Class surfaces most clearly in the private patient who treats his room like a hotel suite and believes the price of said hotel suite should rearrange the priorities of the entire ward, which is a small but telling reminder that illness does not flatten social hierarchy.

Volpe closes the film with a reminder that hospitals across the world face a growing shortage of nurses. The point is unsubtle, though the film has already made a finer argument. Everyone understands that healthcare systems rely on workers who absorb impossible workloads, but the scale of that dependence rarely becomes visible until something breaks. The work continues because someone still needs care, and the system continues because people like Floria keep showing up, day after day. If anything, Late Shift spends ninety minutes observing how alarmingly thin the margin is between a functioning ward and institutional collapse.

Late Shift premieres at the Red Lorry Film Festival that will be held from 13 to 15 March 2026 in Mumbai

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