Business
Will Southern California be the 'Napa Valley of coffee'?
It’s a Sunday afternoon at the San Francisco Coffee Festival at Fort Mason, and Jay Ruskey, founder of Frinj Coffee, is standing at his booth in front of a row of lush green plants wrapped in burlap. He picks up a Chemex and pours some of the aromatic, freshly brewed coffee into small cups. Ruskey and Frinj’s head roaster, Richard Masino, look up to see a long line of customers snaking out past several other festival booths.
They’re all waiting to taste coffee from beans produced in California — yes, California — not Ethiopa or Colombia or Peru but Frinj’s coffee grown in Goleta, north of Santa Barbara. The coffee in the Chemex is from Ruskey’s own trees, planted at his farm Good Land Organics, also Frinj headquarters.
Frinj is on a mission to make sure coffee crops, previously grown only in tropical climates, can thrive in the Golden State. Before 2000, little to no coffee was cultivated in California. Now, 14 varieties of coffee are being carefully tended to on more than 65 farms in Southern California from Santa Barbara to north of San Diego.
The results are garnering renown and gaining fans in the coffee world, and more California coffee than ever will be ready to harvest starting in May and throughout the summer.
“Over the past almost six years, we put more than 100,000 trees in the ground,” Ruskey says. “We’re suspecting by summer 2024 that we’re going to have six to eight times the coffee that we got [in 2023], about 6,500 to 8,000 pounds.”
That’s a drop in the coffee bucket compared to the several million pounds grown annually in Brazil alone, but the quality of California coffee is receiving international attention. Recently, Blue Bottle founder James Freeman featured Frinj’s California-grown Gesha variety at his own coffee tasting-menu experience in Los Angeles. A pour-over of Goodland Organics Gesha — with fresh and fruity notes of peach, jasmine and strawberry — was served alongside two exceptional coffees, a Panama Finca Deborah Interstellar Gesha and a Yemen Hayma Kharijiya Aljidan Xi.
“It is a privilege that so close to where I live, there is coffee growing that is as good as from any farm I would have to travel across the globe to get to,” Freeman says.
Tokyo-based barista champions Hide Izaki and Miki Suzuki visited Good Land Organics to taste Frinj coffees. Izaki and Suzuki travel the globe to find rare, highest-quality examples to serve at their coffee tasting experience, Cokuun. The two expressed that they were impressed, as they slurped from tasting cups with excitement.
“Initially doubtful about California Gesha, my perception shifted after experiencing an omakase course at Blue Bottle Studio Kyoto and tasting Californian Gesha blind [at Frinj],” Izaki says. “I was pleasantly surprised by its sweet and rich texture.”
California coffee is gaining international fans. Hide Izaki, left, founder of coffee tasting experience Cokuun in Tokyo, checks out Good Land Organics in Goleta with farmer Jay Ruskey.
(Julie Wolfson)
It took Ruskey several attempts from the first planting of coffee trees in 2002 to learn best practices for growing coffee in Southern California. While tropical climates average over 60 degrees year-round and have generally high precipitation, he and other California coffee farmers are focusing on working with weather patterns, multilayer farming with other crops, and careful use of water.
“I have always been passionate about crop adaptation,” says Ruskey. “I was working with the UC Cooperative Extension Service to plant lychee and longans when Dr. Mark Gaskell, a small berry crop expert, gave me 40 coffee plants and encouraged me to try planting them side by side with other plants.”
The 42 hilltop acres of Good Land Organics sits along the western edge of Goleta near the University of California, Santa Barbara, with 10 lush acres and more than 3,500 coffee plants alongside avocado trees that provide shade and protection. The farm also grows ice cream beans, persimmons, pomegranates, passion fruit, dragon fruit, cherimoyas and caviar limes in soil that has become more fertile from the biodiversity of crops.
William Ristenpart, director of the UC Davis Coffee Center and a professor of chemical engineering, has been following Frinj’s progress. “I love the idea of having a Napa Valley of coffee right here in California. That’s what Jay and [other] farmers are working towards,” Ristenpart says. “The whole idea of having dual use, growing avocados and coffee on the same land and having two revenue streams for a single farmer, that’s fantastic.”
Ruskey sold his first harvests as roasted beans at the farmers market in Santa Barbara and on the Good Land Organics website.
When Daily Coffee News blind-tasted Ruskey’s coffee in 2014 and named it 27th in the world, it gave him the confidence to consider his project as more than an experimental crop. Eventually he began to offer roasted Frinj beans through some coffee shops from Bird Rock in San Diego to Burnside in Sacramento and beyond, such as at Make Worth Coffee in Bellham, Wash. Frinj is served at the Steward Hotel in Santa Barbara as part of its efforts to highlight locally sourced ingredients.
In Los Angeles, Goodboybob has put Frinj coffee on its pour-over menu and included it as part of a rare coffee subscription. Chief Executive Marcus Young has consulted with Frinj, and as the yield increases intends to offer more in the future.
Once coffee plants are established, trees can produce coffee annually for over 25 years. “We are still very early in the California coffee industry’s developmental phase,” says Jay Ruskey of Frinj Coffee.
(Jonnah Perkins)
“We are always excited to have it on our menu,” Young says. “Jay has been part of our speaker series, and we love when he brings coffee trees with him, tying the conversation to something local.”
Frinj also is exploring uses for other parts of the coffee plant. Coffee leaves, flowers and cherries (the fruit) were highlighted in a tea-style course at Blue Bottle Studio, brewed as elegant infusions.
“We’ve really just been stuck on this bean,” says Ruskey. “By being a fruit grower at heart, processing this beautiful fruit with these complex flavors, antioxidants and all these healthy products within the fruit that usually gets composted, I feel like it’s just such a waste and tragedy. So I do think there are opportunities.”
When Ristenpart took a camping trip with his students at Good Land Organics for a hands-on experience, they sampled a batch of fresh cascara (dried coffee cherry) syrup. “We made blueberry pancakes in the morning and we’re pouring it on like maple syrup,” he says. “The best pancakes I have ever had in my life!”
Coffee blossom tea? Jay Ruskey uses various parts of the coffee plant, including the leaves and flowers, to brew infusions.
(Julie Wolfson)
Frinj also supplies plant material, support for cultivation and sales opportunities for other coffee farmers.
“None of this infrastructure was available seven years ago,” Ruskey says. “Coffee is essentially a fruit tree crop, which means establishment can be a long process as it can take 4 to 5 years to produce a first crop,” he adds.
Once coffee plants are established, trees can produce coffee annually for over 25 years, “so we are still very early in the California coffee industry’s developmental phase.”
Frinj processes post-harvest coffee, sells green beans, roasts beans and provides sales channels on its own web shop and directly to coffee companies.
Currently on the website, roasted coffee of various varieties from several farms is priced at $15 to $125. A coffee named Sundays at Toro, grown in Santa Barbara County by Chris and Kristina McCausland, is a Pacas variety with tasting notes of black cherry, passion fruit, cacao and Port wine.
Frinj coffees made an appearance at the 2023 U.S. Brewers Cup — a prestigious competition highlighting the craft of brewing filter coffee — in Portland, Ore. Elika Liftee, director of barista education at Onyx Coffee in Arkansas, competed in the finals with a blend of coffees grown at Rancho Delfino in Carpinteria.
“Ideally, we want to be celebrated as top shelf coffees,” Ruskey says, “and be served in coffee shops that have customers who want to experience some of the best coffees in the world.”
Business
A tale of two Ralphs — Lauren and the supermarket — shows the reality of a K-shaped economy
John and Theresa Anderson meandered through the sprawling Ralph Lauren clothing store on Rodeo Drive, shopping for holiday gifts.
They emerged carrying boxy blue bags. John scored quarter-zip sweaters for himself and his father-in-law, and his wife splurged on a tweed jacket for Christmas Day.
“I’m going for quality over quantity this year,” said John, an apparel company executive and Palos Verdes Estates resident.
They strolled through the world-famous Beverly Hills shopping mecca, where there was little evidence of any big sales.
John Anderson holds his shopping bags from Ralph Lauren and Gucci at Rodeo Drive.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
One mile away, shoppers at a Ralphs grocery store in West Hollywood were hunting for bargains. The chain’s website has been advertising discounts on a wide variety of products, including wine and wrapping paper.
Massi Gharibian was there looking for cream cheese and ways to save money.
“I’m buying less this year,” she said. “Everything is expensive.”
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The tale of two Ralphs shows how Americans are experiencing radically different realities this holiday season. It represents the country’s K-shaped economy — the growing divide between those who are affluent and those trying to stretch their budgets.
Some Los Angeles residents are tightening their belts and prioritizing necessities such as groceries. Others are frequenting pricey stores such as Ralph Lauren, where doormen hand out hot chocolate and a cashmere-silk necktie sells for $250.
People shop at Ralphs in West Hollywood.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
In the K-shaped economy, high-income households sit on the upward arm of the “K,” benefiting from rising pay as well as the value of their stock and property holdings. At the same time, lower-income families occupy the downward stroke, squeezed by inflation and lackluster income gains.
The model captures the country’s contradictions. Growth looks healthy on paper, yet hiring has slowed and unemployment is edging higher. Investment is booming in artificial intelligence data centers, while factories cut jobs and home sales stall.
The divide is most visible in affordability. Inflation remains a far heavier burden for households lower on the income distribution, a frustration that has spilled into politics. Voters are angry about expensive rents, groceries and imported goods.
“People in lower incomes are becoming more and more conservative in their spending patterns, and people in the upper incomes are actually driving spending and spending more,” said Kevin Klowden, an executive director at the Milken Institute, an economic think tank.
“Inflationary pressures have been much higher on lower- and middle-income people, and that has been adding up,” he said.
According to a Bank of America report released this month, higher-income employees saw their after-tax wages grow 4% from last year, while lower-income groups saw a jump of just 1.4%. Higher-income households also increased their spending year over year by 2.6%, while lower-income groups increased spending by 0.6%.
The executives at the companies behind the two Ralphs say they are seeing the trend nationwide.
Ralph Lauren reported better-than-expected quarterly sales last month and raised its forecasts, while Kroger, the grocery giant that owns Ralphs and Food 4 Less, said it sometimes struggles to attract cash-strapped customers.
“We’re seeing a split across income groups,” interim Kroger Chief Executive Ron Sargent said on a company earnings call early this month. “Middle-income customers are feeling increased pressure. They’re making smaller, more frequent trips to manage budgets, and they’re cutting back on discretionary purchases.”
People leave Ralphs with their groceries in West Hollywood.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
Kroger lowered the top end of its full-year sales forecast after reporting mixed third-quarter earnings this month.
On a Ralph Lauren earnings call last month, CEO Patrice Louvet said its brand has benefited from targeting wealthy customers and avoiding discounts.
“Demand remains healthy, and our core consumer is resilient,” Louvet said, “especially as we continue … to shift our recruiting towards more full-price, less price-sensitive, higher-basket-size new customers.”
Investors have noticed the split as well.
The stock charts of the companies behind the two Ralphs also resemble a K. Shares of Ralph Lauren have jumped 37% in the last six months, while Kroger shares have fallen 13%.
To attract increasingly discerning consumers, Kroger has offered a precooked holiday meal for eight of turkey or ham, stuffing, green bean casserole, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, cranberry and gravy for about $11 a person.
“Stretch your holiday dollars!” said the company’s weekly newspaper advertisement.
Signs advertising low prices are posted at Ralphs.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
In the Ralph Lauren on Rodeo Drive, sunglasses and polo shirts were displayed without discounts. Twinkling lights adorned trees in the store’s entryway and employees offered shoppers free cookies for the holidays.
Ralph Lauren and other luxury stores are taking the opposite approach to retailers selling basics to the middle class.
They are boosting profits from sales of full-priced items. Stores that cater to high-end customers don’t offer promotions as frequently, Klowden of the Milken Institute said.
“When the luxury stores are having sales, that’s usually a larger structural symptom of how they’re doing,” he said. “They don’t need to be having sales right now.”
Jerry Nickelsburg, faculty director of the UCLA Anderson Forecast, said upper-income earners are less affected by inflation that has driven up the price of everyday goods, and are less likely to hunt for bargains.
“The low end of the income distribution is being squeezed by inflation and is consuming less,” he said. “The upper end of the income distribution has increasing wealth and increasing income, and so they are less affected, if affected at all.”
The Andersons on Rodeo Drive also picked up presents at Gucci and Dior.
“We’re spending around the same as last year,” John Anderson said.
At Ralphs, Beverly Grove resident Mel, who didn’t want to share her last name, said the grocery store needs to go further for its consumers.
“I am 100% trying to spend less this year,” she said.
Business
Instacart ends AI pricing test that charged shoppers different prices for the same items
Instacart will stop using artificial intelligence to experiment with product pricing after a report showed that customers on the platform were paying different prices for the same items.
The report, published this month by Consumer Reports and Groundwork Collaborative, found that Instacart sometimes offered as many as five different prices for the same item at the same store and on the same day.
In a blog post Monday, Instacart said it was ending the practice effective immediately.
“We understand that the tests we ran with a small number of retail partners that resulted in different prices for the same item at the same store missed the mark for some customers,” the company said. “At a time when families are working exceptionally hard to stretch every grocery dollar, those tests raised concerns.”
Shoppers purchasing the same items from the same store on the same day will now see identical prices, the blog post said.
Instacart’s retail partners will still set product prices and may charge different prices across stores.
The report, which followed more than 400 shoppers in four cities, found that the average difference between the highest and lowest prices for the same item was 13%. Some participants in the study saw prices that were 23% higher than those offered to other shoppers.
At a Safeway supermarket in Washington, D.C., a dozen Lucerne eggs sold for $3.99, $4.28, $4.59, $4.69 and $4.79 on Instacart, depending on the shopper, the study showed.
At a Safeway in Seattle, a box of 10 Clif Chocolate Chip Energy bars sold for $19.43, $19.99 and $21.99 on Instacart.
The study found that an individual shopper on Instacart could theoretically spend up to $1,200 more on groceries in one year if they had to deal with the price differences observed in the pricing experiments.
The price experimentation was part of a program that Instacart advertised to retailers as a way to maximize revenue.
Instacart probably began adjusting prices in 2022, when the platform acquired the artificial intelligence company Eversight, whose software powers the experiments.
Instacart claimed that the Eversight experimentation would be negligible to consumers but could increase store revenue by up to 3%.
“Advances in AI enable experiments to be automatically designed, deployed, and evaluated, making it possible to rapidly test and analyze millions of price permutations across your physical and digital store network,” Instacart marketing materials said online.
The company said the price chranges were not dynamic pricing, the practice used by airlines and ride-hailing services to charge more when demand surges.
The price changes also were not based on shoppers’ personal information such as income, the company said.
“American grocery shoppers aren’t guinea pigs, and they should be able to expect a fair price when they’re shopping,” Lindsey Owens, executive director of Groundwork Collaborative, said in an interview this month.
Shares of Instacart fell 2% on Monday, closing at $45.02.
Business
Apple, Google and others tell some foreign employees to avoid traveling out of the country
Big Tech companies, including Apple, Google, Microsoft, and ServiceNow, have warned employees on visas to avoid leaving the country amid uncertainty about changing immigration policy and procedures.
Following an attack on National Guard members in Washington, the Trump administration expanded travel bans earlier this month, and beefed up vetting and data collection for visa applicants. The new policy now includes screening the social media history of some visa applicants and their dependents.
Soon after the announcement, U.S. consulates began rescheduling appointments for future dates, some as late as summer 2026, leaving employees who required appointments unable to return.
“Please be aware that some U.S. Embassies and Consulates are experiencing significant visa stamping appointment delays, currently reported as up to 12 months,” noted an email sent by Berry Appleman & Leiden LLC, the immigration firm that represents Google. The advisory also recommended “avoiding international travel at this time.”
Business Insider earlier reported on the travel advisories.
Microsoft’s memo noted that much of the rescheduling is occurring in India, in cities such as Chennai and Hyderabad, and that new stamping dates are as far out as June 2026.
The company advised employees with valid work authorization who were traveling outside the U.S. for stamping to return before their current visa expires. Those still in the U.S. scheduling upcoming travel for visa stamping should “strongly consider” changing their travel plans.
Apple’s immigration team also recommended that employees without a valid H1-B visa stamp avoid international travel for now.
ServiceNow, a business software company, similarly issued an advisory recommending that those with valid visa stamps return to the U.S.
Microsoft declined to comment on its memo. Apple, Google and ServiceNow did not immediately respond to requests for comment.
Companies warned that delays due to enhanced screening is for H-1B, H-4, F, J and M visas.
H-1B is a high-skilled immigration visa program that allows employers to sponsor work visas for individuals with specialized skills. The program, capped at 85,000 new visas per year, is a channel for American tech giants to source skilled workers, such as software engineers.
Big Tech companies such as Amazon, Google, and Meta have consistently topped the charts in terms of the number of H-1B approvals, with Indian nationals as the largest beneficiaries of the program, accounting for 71% of approved H-1 B petitions.
H-1B visas are awarded through a lottery system, which its critics say has been exploited by companies to replace American workers with cheap foreign labor.
In September, the Trump administration announced a $100,000 fee for new H-1B employee hires. But after severe pushback, it clarified that it applied only to employers seeking to use the H-1B visa to hire foreign nationals not already in the U.S.
The H-1B program is an issue that has not only animated the right but also splintered it. Those on the tech-right, such as Elon Musk and David Sacks, are strongly in favor of strengthening skilled immigration, while the core MAGA base is vehemently opposed to it.
Proponents of the program often highlight that skilled worker immigration made the U.S a technological leader, and nearly half of the fortune 500 companies were founded by immigrants or their children, creating jobs for native-born Americans.
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