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Will Southern California be the 'Napa Valley of coffee'?

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Will Southern California be the 'Napa Valley of coffee'?

It’s a Sunday afternoon at the San Francisco Coffee Festival at Fort Mason, and Jay Ruskey, founder of Frinj Coffee, is standing at his booth in front of a row of lush green plants wrapped in burlap. He picks up a Chemex and pours some of the aromatic, freshly brewed coffee into small cups. Ruskey and Frinj’s head roaster, Richard Masino, look up to see a long line of customers snaking out past several other festival booths.

They’re all waiting to taste coffee from beans produced in California — yes, California — not Ethiopa or Colombia or Peru but Frinj’s coffee grown in Goleta, north of Santa Barbara. The coffee in the Chemex is from Ruskey’s own trees, planted at his farm Good Land Organics, also Frinj headquarters.

Frinj is on a mission to make sure coffee crops, previously grown only in tropical climates, can thrive in the Golden State. Before 2000, little to no coffee was cultivated in California. Now, 14 varieties of coffee are being carefully tended to on more than 65 farms in Southern California from Santa Barbara to north of San Diego.

The results are garnering renown and gaining fans in the coffee world, and more California coffee than ever will be ready to harvest starting in May and throughout the summer.

“Over the past almost six years, we put more than 100,000 trees in the ground,” Ruskey says. “We’re suspecting by summer 2024 that we’re going to have six to eight times the coffee that we got [in 2023], about 6,500 to 8,000 pounds.”

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That’s a drop in the coffee bucket compared to the several million pounds grown annually in Brazil alone, but the quality of California coffee is receiving international attention. Recently, Blue Bottle founder James Freeman featured Frinj’s California-grown Gesha variety at his own coffee tasting-menu experience in Los Angeles. A pour-over of Goodland Organics Gesha — with fresh and fruity notes of peach, jasmine and strawberry — was served alongside two exceptional coffees, a Panama Finca Deborah Interstellar Gesha and a Yemen Hayma Kharijiya Aljidan Xi.

“It is a privilege that so close to where I live, there is coffee growing that is as good as from any farm I would have to travel across the globe to get to,” Freeman says.

Tokyo-based barista champions Hide Izaki and Miki Suzuki visited Good Land Organics to taste Frinj coffees. Izaki and Suzuki travel the globe to find rare, highest-quality examples to serve at their coffee tasting experience, Cokuun. The two expressed that they were impressed, as they slurped from tasting cups with excitement.

“Initially doubtful about California Gesha, my perception shifted after experiencing an omakase course at Blue Bottle Studio Kyoto and tasting Californian Gesha blind [at Frinj],” Izaki says. “I was pleasantly surprised by its sweet and rich texture.”

California coffee is gaining international fans. Hide Izaki, left, founder of coffee tasting experience Cokuun in Tokyo, checks out Good Land Organics in Goleta with farmer Jay Ruskey.

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(Julie Wolfson)

It took Ruskey several attempts from the first planting of coffee trees in 2002 to learn best practices for growing coffee in Southern California. While tropical climates average over 60 degrees year-round and have generally high precipitation, he and other California coffee farmers are focusing on working with weather patterns, multilayer farming with other crops, and careful use of water.

“I have always been passionate about crop adaptation,” says Ruskey. “I was working with the UC Cooperative Extension Service to plant lychee and longans when Dr. Mark Gaskell, a small berry crop expert, gave me 40 coffee plants and encouraged me to try planting them side by side with other plants.”

The 42 hilltop acres of Good Land Organics sits along the western edge of Goleta near the University of California, Santa Barbara, with 10 lush acres and more than 3,500 coffee plants alongside avocado trees that provide shade and protection. The farm also grows ice cream beans, persimmons, pomegranates, passion fruit, dragon fruit, cherimoyas and caviar limes in soil that has become more fertile from the biodiversity of crops.

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William Ristenpart, director of the UC Davis Coffee Center and a professor of chemical engineering, has been following Frinj’s progress. “I love the idea of having a Napa Valley of coffee right here in California. That’s what Jay and [other] farmers are working towards,” Ristenpart says. “The whole idea of having dual use, growing avocados and coffee on the same land and having two revenue streams for a single farmer, that’s fantastic.”

Ruskey sold his first harvests as roasted beans at the farmers market in Santa Barbara and on the Good Land Organics website.

When Daily Coffee News blind-tasted Ruskey’s coffee in 2014 and named it 27th in the world, it gave him the confidence to consider his project as more than an experimental crop. Eventually he began to offer roasted Frinj beans through some coffee shops from Bird Rock in San Diego to Burnside in Sacramento and beyond, such as at Make Worth Coffee in Bellham, Wash. Frinj is served at the Steward Hotel in Santa Barbara as part of its efforts to highlight locally sourced ingredients.

In Los Angeles, Goodboybob has put Frinj coffee on its pour-over menu and included it as part of a rare coffee subscription. Chief Executive Marcus Young has consulted with Frinj, and as the yield increases intends to offer more in the future.

Once coffee plants are established, trees can produce coffee annually for over 25 years. “We are still very early in the California coffee industry’s developmental phase,” says Jay Ruskey of Frinj Coffee.

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(Jonnah Perkins)

“We are always excited to have it on our menu,” Young says. “Jay has been part of our speaker series, and we love when he brings coffee trees with him, tying the conversation to something local.”

Frinj also is exploring uses for other parts of the coffee plant. Coffee leaves, flowers and cherries (the fruit) were highlighted in a tea-style course at Blue Bottle Studio, brewed as elegant infusions.

“We’ve really just been stuck on this bean,” says Ruskey. “By being a fruit grower at heart, processing this beautiful fruit with these complex flavors, antioxidants and all these healthy products within the fruit that usually gets composted, I feel like it’s just such a waste and tragedy. So I do think there are opportunities.”

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When Ristenpart took a camping trip with his students at Good Land Organics for a hands-on experience, they sampled a batch of fresh cascara (dried coffee cherry) syrup. “We made blueberry pancakes in the morning and we’re pouring it on like maple syrup,” he says. “The best pancakes I have ever had in my life!”

Coffee blossom tea? Jay Ruskey uses various parts of the coffee plant, including the leaves and flowers, to brew infusions.

(Julie Wolfson)

Frinj also supplies plant material, support for cultivation and sales opportunities for other coffee farmers.

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“None of this infrastructure was available seven years ago,” Ruskey says. “Coffee is essentially a fruit tree crop, which means establishment can be a long process as it can take 4 to 5 years to produce a first crop,” he adds.

Once coffee plants are established, trees can produce coffee annually for over 25 years, “so we are still very early in the California coffee industry’s developmental phase.”

Frinj processes post-harvest coffee, sells green beans, roasts beans and provides sales channels on its own web shop and directly to coffee companies.

Currently on the website, roasted coffee of various varieties from several farms is priced at $15 to $125. A coffee named Sundays at Toro, grown in Santa Barbara County by Chris and Kristina McCausland, is a Pacas variety with tasting notes of black cherry, passion fruit, cacao and Port wine.

Frinj coffees made an appearance at the 2023 U.S. Brewers Cup — a prestigious competition highlighting the craft of brewing filter coffee — in Portland, Ore. Elika Liftee, director of barista education at Onyx Coffee in Arkansas, competed in the finals with a blend of coffees grown at Rancho Delfino in Carpinteria.

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“Ideally, we want to be celebrated as top shelf coffees,” Ruskey says, “and be served in coffee shops that have customers who want to experience some of the best coffees in the world.”

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Read Nick Bilton’s Letter to Scott Pelley

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Read Nick Bilton’s Letter to Scott Pelley

Dear Mr. Pelley:

I meant what I said in my letter last week to the 60 Minutes team: joining 60 Minutes is the honor of my career and I am grateful to be working alongside the people who have contributed to the most important television journalism brand this country has ever produced. While I’m new to 60 Minutes, I’ve devoted my career to investigative journalism and storytelling. I started this job excited to collaborate and to benefit from the wisdom and experience of the 60 Minutes veterans, with you among them. For that reason, one of the first things I did in my new role was call you to talk and invite you to dinner. It is a profound disappointment that you rejected that overture and chose ambush instead. Yesterday, you hijacked my first meeting with staff to disparage me, my qualifications, and my intentions with remarkable incivility and contempt. I welcome a diversity of viewpoints and respectful debate among the team, but this was nothing of the sort. Yesterday’s performative display of hostility enacted in front of the staff instead of in a civil, private conversation-demonstrated that you have no interest in contributing to the future success of the show, or approaching my new tenure with a mind open to collaboration and progress. I am here to deliver first-in-class news programming, not to make headlines about newsroom drama. I am eager to work alongside those who share this goal.

Despite yesterday’s misconduct, I had hoped that in sitting down with you today we could find a path forward together. You made clear that you are not interested in such a path.

Your antipathy to the future of the show has come through loud and clear. And I have heard you. I therefore write on behalf of CBS News, Inc. (“CBS”) to inform you that your employment with CBS is terminated for cause effective immediately. Enclosed is your formal termination letter.

Sincerely,

Nick Bilton

Executive Producer, 60 Minutes

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Aspiration co-founder sentenced to 14 years for fraud

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Aspiration co-founder sentenced to 14 years for fraud

The co-founder of Aspiration, Joseph Sanberg, was sentenced to 14 years in prison on Monday after defrauding investors and lenders of over $248 million.

The startup, an eco-friendly digital banking company boasting fossil fuel-free investments, carbon offsets for gas purchases, and a debit card with cash-back benefits for shopping at clean companies, was founded by Sanberg and Andrei Cherny. Cherny left the company in 2022 and has not been charged.

Sanberg, an Orange County native, pleaded guilty to wire fraud in October after being arrested in March last year. Aspiration subsequently filed for bankruptcy and liquidated all of its assets by July.

Sanberg and venture capitalist Ibrahim AlHusseini, who also faces charges, together forged a series of bank statements in order to obtain loans. From 2020 to 2021, the pair forged AlHusseini’s bank statements to show millions of dollars in assets in order to obtain millions of dollars from lenders.

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Additionally, they forged a letter from their audit committee stating that $250 million in funds were available, when in reality Aspiration had less than $1 million. The amount of loans defrauded exceeded $248 million.

In 2021, Sanberg artificially inflated Aspiration’s 2021 revenue by $44 million by recruiting 27 fake customers to sign letters of intent pledging tens of thousands of dollars per month for tree planting services. Sanberg himself funded the contracts and used the inflated revenue numbers to obtain more loans.

The charges sparked an NBA investigation into salary cap allegations due to Aspiration’s connections with Clippers owner Steve Ballmer.

Ballmer personally invested $60 million in Aspiration, all of which was lost. He is now the target of a civil lawsuit alleging his participation in the scheme. Ballmer denies the allegations.

The team announced a $300-million sponsorship deal with Aspiration, and Clippers player Kawhi Leonard signed a four-year, $28-million marketing contract with the company, which reportedly performed no duties. The issue has raised concerns about how players are circumventing the NBA’s salary cap.

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The team lost the $300-million sponsorship deal and an additional $20 million paid for carbon offset purchases.

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Monterey Park takes landmark vote on banning data centers

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Monterey Park takes landmark vote on banning data centers

Residents in the city of Monterey Park will be the first in the nation to vote on a permanent ban on data centers Tuesday.

If approved, Measure NDC would prohibit data centers within the city limits and could only be overturned by another vote.

Yard signs saying “No Data Center” in English and Chinese with images of dragons line sidewalks in the San Gabriel Valley city.

As a wave of data center opposition sweeps the country, numerous towns and counties across the U.S. have instituted temporary moratoria and other restrictions on the facilities. But only a handful have instituted indefinite bans, and just four other towns have sent related matters to the ballot.

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Supporters are hoping the vote will set a precedent for the rest of the region, where residents are fighting proposals in Vernon and City of Industry.

“This is about as permanent a ban as we can get,” said Steven Kung, co-founder of the group No Data Center Monterey Park. “Winning Measure NDC would send a huge message to the rest of the San Gabriel Valley about how residents don’t want data centers.”

The ballot measure emerged from the fight against a 247,000-square-foot center proposed in 2024 by the Australian-owned investment firm HMC StratCap for a residential area in Monterey Park.

The facility would have sat less than 500 feet away from the nearest home and used three times the electricity of the 60,000-person, predominantly Asian American city.

While the developer touted the potential for jobs and tax revenue, residents expressed concerns about noise and air pollution, rising electricity rates and a potential to lower property values.

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The company pulled its plans in late March following public outcry and a March 4 city council vote to extend a temporary data center moratorium and place a ban on Tuesday’s ballot.

In a letter to the city council, HMC StratCap said it would pursue a different use for the land and would not engage in a ballot measure fight.

The city council later banned data centers indefinitely, the first in California to do so, said Mayor Elizabeth Yang. But she’s still been out campaigning for the measure with all four other council members.

“If a council puts in an ordinance, a future council can reverse it too,” said Yang. “With the ballot measure, unbanning it is a lot harder because you need the entire city to vote on it.”

The measure proposes the ban “to protect air quality, drinking water resources, and public health” and “prevent impacts to electricity and water rates.”

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While California places third in the country for existing data centers with about 300 facilities, it hasn’t been a hot spot in the recent AI-driven data center boom. High electricity rates, expensive land and regulatory hurdles mean that fewer, and smaller, facilities are currently planned than in Virginia, Texas, Georgia, Illinois or Arizona.

“Most of California’s data centers are small by today’s standards,” said Shaolei Ren, an engineering professor at UC Riverside who studies how to reduce the environmental impacts of data centers. “Ten years ago, they would be medium-sized, but the power demand for new AI data centers has increased a lot.”

The average operating data center demands 45 megawatts, according to the Washington Post, while the average planned one would draw 430 MW. The one proposed for Monterey Park would have required about 50 MW at peak demand.

As proposals crop up in SoCal, they’re met with fierce opposition. Montebello, El Monte and Baldwin Park have all enacted temporary moratoria, and Alhambra recently banned data centers as part of a zoning code update. City of Industry, Vernon, City of Commerce and Santa Fe Springs are moving in the other direction, trying to court developers and streamline data center approvals. Community groups are fighting that.

Outside the San Gabriel Valley, residents of Coachella and Imperial County are showing up in droves to protest local proposals.

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Matthew Shaw, a volunteer with the Coalition for Responsible Data Center Development, who recently published a report on opposition to AI data centers, said a vote to ban them in Monterey Park “would lead to copycats, partially because so many groups are just opposed to any data center development at all.”

While there is no formal opposition to Measure NDC, some building trades like Ironworker Local 433 supported the Monterey Park data center when it was still live before city council. Those in the data center industry are lamenting the state of public opinion.

“These are multi-billion-dollar assets that are built by multi-trillion-dollar companies. These things will get done,” said Mehdi Paryavi, chairman of the International Data Center Authority. “My biggest problem is that our industry does not invest enough in community engagement.”

Paryavi said towns that seek to limit data centers are missing out on thousands of jobs generated by data center construction, operations and customers, as well as faster artificial intelligence speeds and better performance.

Kung said local community organizers are “looking at the empirical evidence” and seeing a ban as a win.

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“We’ve never seen a city that embraces a data center and is like, ‘Look how our quality of life has increased, look how all the revenue has gone into citywide improvements,’” he said. “That just doesn’t exist.”

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