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Eastern Sierra housing crunch: With all this open land, why are so many workers living in vans?

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Eastern Sierra housing crunch: With all this open land, why are so many workers living in vans?

Emily Markstein, a sinewy rock climber and skier who has spent seven years living and working in the Sierra resort town of Mammoth Lakes, opens a large sliding door and welcomes a stranger into her home.

One of the gleaming multimillion-dollar mansions nestled among towering pine trees and granite peaks in this exclusive mountain enclave? Not exactly.

Markstein, who has a master’s degree in historic preservation and has coached skiing, taught yoga, trimmed trees and waited tables at one of the fanciest restaurants in town, lives in a 2006 GMC van.

A rare sign for new home sales in the Eastern Sierra town of Bishop.

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Like countless other adventure seekers drawn to California’s rugged and remote Eastern Sierra, Markstein, 31, initially embraced “van life” after scrolling through social media posts that made it look carefree and glamorous. She continues because she genuinely likes it, she said, but also because, even in this big, beckoning land full of wide-open spaces, there’s almost nowhere else for working people to live.

Official statistics are hard to come by, but Markstein spitballs the percentage of hourly workers in Mammoth Lakes who are living in cars and vans as “less than 50 but more than 20.” In every place she’s worked since moving here, she said, “there have been at least two of us living in our vans.”

Like so many others, she tries to hide that uncomfortable truth from tourists so as not to shatter their fantasy about escaping to an untroubled mountain paradise. But it takes effort.

“I had to play the part of the fine dining expert, like, I know my wines and I know good food,” she said with an easy, infectious grin. “But you haven’t showered in a week and a half and you’re putting deodorant on, and all these sprays, trying to make yourself look like you don’t live in your car.”

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Emily Markstein, with a dog she is sitting for a friend, outside her van in the Inyo National Forest.

“During COVID, I was showering in the creek,” Emily Markstein says of van life. “Right now, I rotate through my friends’ houses to get my weekly shower.”

The notion of an acute housing shortage in this wild and sparsely populated region — there are about four people per square mile in Mono County and fewer than two per square mile in neighboring Inyo County — can be hard to wrap your head around.

It’s due, in large part, to the fact that more than 90 percent of the land is owned by conservation-minded government agencies: the U.S. Forest Service, the federal Bureau of Land Management and, most controversially, the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power.

Those large, distant bureaucracies have little interest in making land available to the fast-growing ranks of outdoor enthusiasts — hikers, climbers, skiers, anglers with fly rods — flocking to this mostly unspoiled part of California near the Nevada border.

So when any sliver of private land or an already existing home hits the market, there’s usually a long line of well-to-do professionals and would-be Airbnb investors from coastal cities ready to drive the price out of reach for even the most industrious working people. As a result, essential workers are left out in the cold.

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“That has always been a problem here,” said Mammoth Lakes Mayor Pro Tem Chris Bubser. But it has become noticeably worse since the pandemic, when so many well-paid professionals discovered they could work from anywhere, and so many long-term rental units became Airbnbs to accommodate them.

An artist draws the scenery in the Inyo National Forest.

An artist captures the scenery in Buttermilk Country in the Inyo National Forest.

Now, Bubser said, the lack of affordable housing is a full-blown crisis making it almost impossible for hourly workers, and even some salaried professionals, to keep a traditional roof over their heads.

Last year, the schools made job offers to four teachers, but three had to say no because they couldn’t find anywhere to live, Bubser said.

“Our community is hollowing out, and it’s going to be catastrophic down the line,” Bubser said. “We want people to come and raise a family in this amazing place. It feels terrible that it’s not for everybody.”

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The economics of resort towns, where tourists go to play and most everyone local hustles to get by, have been hard on working people for decades. It’s the same in ski towns throughout the American West: Lake Tahoe, Vail, Aspen, Park City.

But the Eastern Sierra’s housing crunch stretches well beyond the confines of Mammoth Lakes.

Grazing land at the foot of a mountain in Bishop.

With all its wide-open spaces, there’s still essentially nowhere to live in the Eastern Sierra because of the vast portion of land owned by goverment agencies.

A 40-minute drive south on U.S. 395 descends more than 3,000 vertical feet to the floor of the Owens Valley and fills your windshield with one of the most sweeping and expansive views in the country. Snowy peaks tumble down to steep granite walls. The walls descend to lush green pastures. The pastures give way to high desert that stretches toward the horizon.

The most breathtaking part? In all of that wide open space, there’s still essentially nowhere to live.

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“It’s just insane,” said Jose Garcia, mayor of Bishop, a dusty crossroads of about 3,800 people at the bottom of the hill.

Garcia has lived in Bishop for 35 years and has watched the once-sleepy ranching outpost explode in popularity with adventure-loving tourists: hikers and climbers in the summer, anglers and leaf-peepers in the fall, skiers in the winter. Tourism is by far the biggest industry, he said.

Bishop Mayor Jose Garcia sits on a sidewalk along Main Street in Bishop.

“Bishop would be like Santa Monica,” if the city had room to grow, Mayor Jose Garcia says of his town. “People would come from all over because of the beauty of this place.”

But in all his time there, “the city has not grown at all,” Garcia said.

That’s because almost all of the land in and around Bishop is owned by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power, Garcia said.

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More than a century ago, when it became clear the booming metropolis 300 miles to the south would very quickly dry up its own meager water supplies, its agents fanned out across the Owens Valley, buying up every acre they could find to secure rights to the precious snowmelt that flows down from the mountains each spring.

Today, the DWP owns about 250,000 acres in Inyo County, where Bishop is located.

“We are basically landlocked,” said an exasperated Garcia over coffee earlier this month, as soft morning light bathed the mountains in every direction.

California has a dozen summits higher than 14,000 feet; the trailheads leading to 11 of them are within about an hour of where he sat.

“Bishop would be like Santa Monica” if the city had room to grow, he said. “People would come from all over because of the beauty of this place.”

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A private property sign in a brushy area.

A City of Los Angeles private property sign wards off would-be campers outside Bishop.

Adam Perez, the DWP’s top manager in the Owens Valley, said it’s easy to point the finger at his agency and blame it for the stagnation. But the DWP manages the land responsibly, he said. The overarching mission remains what it always was — to send the water down to Los Angeles — but the department works hard to be more than just “bullies that are trying to push people around,” he said.

The agency allows hiking, hunting, fishing and camping on most of its land, he pointed out.

And if you’re lucky enough to own one of the existing houses, he said, you might like the fact that your view across that incredible landscape is never going to be marred by “a big housing tract” plunked down in the middle of it.

“You’re always going to have a protected view,” Perez said.

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If Perez is at the top of the local pecking order, the young climbers who flock to Bishop from around the globe to train on world-class crags in Buttermilk Country and the Owens River Gorge are near the bottom.

The Mammoth Gear Exchange, a secondhand sporting goods shop on a corner of Bishop’s main intersection, is a local landmark and regular haunt for climbers. On a recent weekday morning, a handful of the shop’s employees agreed with at least some of what Perez said: They love that Bishop remains so remote and that it hasn’t succumbed to suburban sprawl as have climbing meccas near Denver and Boulder.

But all of them have spent long stretches living out of their vans, even after they decided to give up the itinerant life of a hard-core traveling climber and tried to put down roots.

One, who asked to be identified only by his first name, Peter, to avoid attracting attention from parking enforcement, said he had been living in a van since making the trek from Ohio to California 2½ years ago. His girlfriend lives with him.

They’re in no rush to start paying rent, he said, but it didn’t take much prompting to get him to rattle off a long list of the difficulties.

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A street separates open grazing land from a tree-covered neighborhood.

Homes to the right, grazing land to the left, and the wide open spaces beyond in the Eastern Sierra town of Bishop.

“When you’ve lived in a house your whole life, you don’t realize how much you value your own space,” he said, choosing his words carefully. Forget about getting anything delivered from Amazon.

“It seems like the whole system is set up” for people who live in houses, he said, “like, you’re supposed to have a permanent address.”

He sounded almost mystical when his thoughts turned to the comforts of indoor plumbing. “Just having warm water to wash your hands on demand,” he said. “Like, you just turn the dial.”

Back up the hill in Mammoth, Markstein’s description of van life also frequently circled back to the issue of plumbing.

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“During COVID, I was showering in the creek,” she said, because social distancing requirements made invitations to use indoor bathrooms hard to come by. “Right now, I rotate through my friends’ houses to get my weekly shower.”

Then, realizing how that might sound to an audience of the uninitiated, she added: “For many people that’s pretty gross, but for people living in a van it’s kind of normal.”

During her stint as a tree trimmer, she guessed about 70% of the properties she worked on sat empty because they were either second homes or unoccupied Airbnbs. That was immensely “frustrating” for someone working her butt off, living in a van, she said.

But maybe nothing is as frustrating for van lifers, or occupies as big a chunk of their daily bandwidth, as the question of where to find a toilet.

At one point, a few of her friends worked at an organic coffee shop on Main St. called Stellar Brew. It had a comfortable, welcoming vibe. Word spread quickly. Before long, Markstein said, she’d go there in the morning and see “10 vans lined up” in the parking lot.

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The inside joke was: “Have a stellar poo at Stellar Brew.”

Emily Markstein laughs sitting on a mattress inside her van.

Working as a tree trimmer, Emily Markstein saw second homes and Airbnbs sitting empty. That was “frustrating” for someone working her butt off, living in a van, she said.

The shop’s general manager, Nikki Lee, had nothing but sympathy and praise for the van lifers.

The housing situation is so precarious for working people in Mammoth, Lee said, she actually prefers job candidates who live in their vans. Their lives are more stable than people engaged in the almost always losing battle of trying to hold on to an apartment in a town where rent is often upward of $4,000 a month and constantly rising.

A current full-time baker at the shop, who used to be a kindergarten teacher, lives in his van, Lee said.

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“I don’t ever let that be a deterrent for hiring,” Lee said, “because I know that the folks that live in their van, they can make the commitment to stay.”

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Newsom calls for big boost in funding for California's film and TV tax credit, throwing Hollywood a lifeline

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Newsom calls for big boost in funding for California's film and TV tax credit, throwing Hollywood a lifeline

Gov. Gavin Newsom unveiled a proposal Sunday to more than double the annual amount of money allocated to California’s film and TV tax credit program as Hollywood struggles to compete with other production hubs dangling lofty incentives.

The governor declared his intent to expand the annual tax credit to $750 million, up from its current total of $330 million, which would make California the top state for capped film incentive programs, surpassing even New York. If approved by the Legislature, the increase could take effect as early as July 2025.

“California is the entertainment capital of the world, rooted in decades of creativity, innovation, and unparalleled talent,” Newsom said in a statement. “Expanding this program will help keep production here at home, generate thousands of good-paying jobs, and strengthen the vital link between our communities and the state’s iconic film and TV industry.”

The announcement comes as Newsom and other elected officials have been under increasing pressure to act as Hollywood production struggles to rebound after the pandemic and last year’s dual strikes by writers and actors.

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Productions have increasingly opted to film in other states due to higher tax incentives, putting a damper on California’s signature film and TV industry. Underscoring the state’s competitive disadvantage, about 71% of projects that were rejected by California’s film and TV tax credit program chose to film out of state, the governor’s office said.

California’s film and TV tax credit program was established in 2009 as a way to prevent film and TV production from fleeing to other states. Back then, the credit was restricted to $100 million per year.

Five years later, the roof was raised to $330 million a year, awarding studios tax credits of up to 25% to offset qualified production costs such as set construction, stunt equipment and wages for crew members. The credit can be applied to any tax liability companies have in California.

In 2023, Newsom extended that version of the program for another five years and added a “refundable” feature entitling studios to cash payments from the state when their credits exceed their tax bills.

Although Newsom’s Sunday proposal would represent a substantial increase in funding, it doesn’t remove other restrictions in the state’s incentive program, including a provision that excludes the salaries of actors and other above-the-line costs that are a big portion of film budgets. Georgia and other rivals do not have such restrictions.

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But such a move is considered politically untenable in California, where the film incentive program has faced opposition from critics who argue that subsidizing entertainment comes at the expense of other worthy causes, such as education and healthcare.

Members of Los Angeles’ entertainment community have recently been urging the government to pump more funds into the film and TV tax credit program in order to curb so-called runaway production and stimulate jobs.

As previously reported by The Times, industry insiders and experts overwhelmingly agree that relatively weak incentives are the main reason California is losing significant ground to Georgia, New York, Canada, the United Kingdom and other filming hot spots around the world.

New York’s film and TV tax credit program, for example, is capped at $700 million; and Georgia — a popular production destination for Marvel and Netflix — doesn’t have a limit at all.

“I believe the best filmmakers in the world are right here in Los Angeles, but it’s being outsourced because of the tax credits,” Mike DeLorenzo, president of Santa Clarita Studios, told The Times last month.

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The sluggish activity in Southern California has been fueled by other factors as well, notably an overall pullback in production that reached a peak during the so-called streaming wars and cost-cutting by the major media companies.

Earlier this month, Los Angeles film permit office FilmLA reported that production levels in the area fell by 5% in the third quarter of 2024 compared with the same stretch in 2023, when scripted production came to a near standstill because of the Hollywood strikes.

Times staff writer Stacy Perman contributed to this report.

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How Trump tariff threats might plunge Mexico into recession and stoke immigration

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How Trump tariff threats might plunge Mexico into recession and stoke immigration

If former President Trump is reelected and follows through with his promise to slap new tariffs on all imports to the U.S., experts say much of the global economy could be upended. And few countries would be more vulnerable than Mexico.

The economy here is driven almost exclusively by trade, with 83% of exports sent north of the border.

Mexicans are watching the U.S. election anxiously, and bracing for a possible Trump victory over the Democratic nominee, Vice President Kalama Harris. Last week, the peso lost value after polling showed that the former president had taken a slight lead in several swing states.

Economists warn that even a small increase in tariffs on Mexico’s goods could lead to a rise in unemployment and poverty, and some say that could prompt more people to migrate to the United States.

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“Even the threat of tariffs will create havoc,” said Juan Carlos Moreno-Brid, an economics professor at the National Autonomous University of Mexico. “It will further reduce Mexico’s long-term economic growth. And it could drive migration to the United States and Canada.”

A worker packages Little Tikes baby swings at the MGA Entertainment factory in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico.

(Bloomberg / Getty Images)

Few world economies are more tightly bound than those of the U.S. and Mexico.

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In 2023, U.S. exports of goods and services to Mexico totaled $367 billion and imports from Mexico exceeded $529 billion, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce. Mexico is the United States’ largest trading partner, having overtaken China in 2021.

Trump, who has long complained about the exodus of manufacturing jobs from the U.S. to countries such as China and Mexico, says that tariffs will help lure factories back to the United States.

Economists, though, are largely skeptical of that claim. And there’s some evidence that higher tariffs enacted during his presidency have cost American jobs. Many warn that U.S. companies would end up absorbing much of the new taxes, a cost they would pass on to U.S. consumers.

Some economists predict a 20% tariff imposed by Trump would end up costing the average U.S. family $2,600 each year. Harris says it could be higher, adding nearly $4,000 a year to the typical household’s bills, an increase she calls a “Trump sales tax.”

It’s difficult to say exactly what new tariffs would mean for the U.S. and the rest of the world because Trump’s proposals keep changing.

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He has vowed, at various points, to impose an across-the-board tax of 10% or 20% on all goods entering the U.S. He’s also threatened tariffs of 60% or higher on imports from China.

In an interview this month with Fox News, he threatened to impose an exorbitant tax on autos imported from Mexico. A big chunk of U.S.-Mexico trade involves cars and auto parts that are transported back and forth across the border for production and final assembly.

“All I’m doing is saying, I’ll put 200[%] or 500%, I don’t care,” Trump said. “I’ll put a number where they can’t sell one car.”

New tariffs could trigger global trade wars because countries would probably retaliate with their own taxes on U.S. imports, targeting in particular farm goods because of the politically sensitive nature of that sector. The International Monetary Fund predicts growth would decelerate worldwide.

Donald Trump gestures as he speaks with flags in the background

Donald Trump has vowed to impose a tariff of 10% or 20% on all goods entering the U.S. and threatened an exorbitant tax on autos imported from Mexico: “I’ll put 200[%] or 500%, I don’t care.”

(Rebecca Blackwell / Associated Press)

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But countries such as Mexico, which relies heavily on exports for economic growth, would be especially affected.

The value of Mexico’s exports and imports amounts to almost 90% of the country’s gross domestic product, according to World Bank data. Economists warn that even a small increase in tariffs on goods destined to the U.S. poses serious risks for the economy.

“Under the worst-case scenario, the Mexican economy will fall into recession, the currency will depreciate, and inflation will rise,” reads a report released this month by the economic research firm Moody’s Analytics.

The mere threat of tariffs has already scared off foreign companies from investing in Mexico. Tesla, for example, announced that it was pausing plans to build a new factory in Mexico until after the election because of Trump’s vow to levy taxes against auto imports.

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Trump appears willing to target individual companies doing business here, recently threatening 200% tariffs on John Deere if the tractor manufacturer moves production and jobs to Mexico.

“The threat of tariffs and the erratic nature in which Trump might deploy them doesn’t offer any investment certainty,” said Rodrigo Aguilera, an independent economist.

As president, Trump in 2018 imposed tariffs on steel from Mexico and other countries, prompting counter-tariffs on American farm goods and straining U.S.-Mexico relations.

He also threatened broader tariffs on all Mexican goods, but backed off after American business leaders complained that it would hurt them and his administration extracted a promise from Mexican authorities to do more to stop migrants from reaching the U.S. border.

Some Mexican officials have said they don’t believe Trump will follow through with his tariff threats, which aren’t popular in the U.S. and seen as counterproductive for the American economy.

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Marcelo Ebrard, Mexico’s economy secretary, told journalists recently that he believes they are just a campaign tactic. “The United States economy is not a manufacturing economy,” Ebrard said. “And I’m sorry, but it will not be that way again.”

But others fear that Trump, if he wins a second presidency, will be more likely to take dramatic measures on an array of policies because it is likely he would be surrounded by more loyalists.

“Trump is not going to be moderated by more moderate conservatives,” said Pamela K. Starr, a professor of international relations at USC. “The second presidency, I think, will be Trump unleashed.”

Rodrigo Aguilera, an independent economist, said there is no doubt that Trump will “use a tariff threat to force Mexico to collaborate on something he wants, on migration policy or security policy.”

“Mexico,” he said, “will have to try to capitulate.”

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If Trump enacts tariffs on Mexico, it would be in violation of the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement, a 2020 treaty that replaced the Clinton-era North American Free Trade Agreement. The new treaty, which Trump helped negotiate, calls for generally no tariffs on trade on the North American continent. If the U.S. violated the agreement, Mexico would have permission to retaliate.

When they overlapped in office, Trump and former President Andrés Manuel López Obrador came to an unexpected detente. López Obrador said the two countries’ relationship was built on mutual respect, and famously called Trump “a friend.”

Many think such a relationship may be less likely with the country’s new president, Claudia Sheinbaum, and Trump, in part because he doesn’t have a good track record of working with female heads of state.

“She’s really smart and a woman, all things that Trump seems to find threatening,” Starr said.

Sheinbaum has largely refrained from commenting on Trump’s tariff threats, except to say that it is the U.S., as much as Mexico, that would suffer if they came to pass.

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Free trade, she said recently, “is as important for the United States as it is for Mexico.”

Sheinbaum, who took office this month, inherited an economy that was already on shaky ground. The country faces its largest budget deficit since the 1980s. And while the social programs carried out by her predecessor helped lift some Mexicans from poverty, 36% of the population is still poor, with 7% living in extreme poverty.

Recent developments in domestic politics in Mexico have spooked some investors. Business groups have criticized an ongoing plan to overhaul Mexico’s justice system, which some say will undermine the independence of judges.

In Mexico and much of Latin America, poverty has a direct link to immigration. A severe recession in Mexico in the 1990s contributed to some 5 million Mexicans immigrating to the U.S.

Times staff writer Don Lee contributed to this report.

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Opinion: It's time to tell the truth about how immigration affects the U.S. economy

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Opinion: It's time to tell the truth about how immigration affects the U.S. economy

If you’re a physician and a neighbor asks you a medical question, you’re probably happy to share your professional expertise. If you’re a heating and cooling contractor and a friend asks you about her furnace, you likely do the same. In that spirit, I think it’s time for business people to share what we know about immigration: that it powers economic growth and provides many other benefits to the country.

At a time when many politicians are falsely scapegoating immigration for society’s ills — crime, housing shortages, labor issues and more — people with experience working alongside immigrants, employing them and relying on them for the success of their business should speak up and set the record straight.

If that description fits you, here are some handy talking points:

  • The United States has plenty of unfilled jobs. The Inflation Reduction Act and the CHIPS and Science Act, both signed by President Biden in 2022, offered incentives for firms to create manufacturing jobs. As of July, the country faces unprecedented labor shortages: The U.S. Chamber of Commerce reports 8 million job openings, substantially more than the total number of unemployed workers, about 6.8 million.
  • Immigrants act more as “job creators” than as “job takers.” A 2020 study published by the National Bureau of Economic Research found that immigrants create jobs and enhance the economy for native-born workers. Foreign-born founders — including Google co-founder Sergey Brin (Russia), Intel co-founder Andrew Grove (Hungary) and Facebook co-founder Eduardo Saverin (Brazil) — play pivotal roles in high-growth entrepreneurship. Because immigrants found companies at a higher rate than native-born Americans, they create more jobs than they take.
  • Immigrants often fill jobs U.S. citizens don’t want. Most native-born Americans eschew low-paying, physically demanding work in agriculture, construction and food production and processing. Immigrants play a crucial role in supplying workers in these sectors, allowing employers to fill jobs without overheating the economy or accelerating inflation.
  • Higher-skilled immigrant workers contribute to innovation and the workforce, boosting productivity. A study of U.S. patents granted from 1990 through 2015 found that immigrants made up 16% of U.S. inventors and produced 23% of innovation output.
  • Immigrants are less likely to engage in criminal behavior than U.S.-born citizens. A recent study based on data from 1870 to 2020 found consistently lower incarceration rates among immigrants. Moreover, immigrant incarceration rates have declined since 1960 compared with those of native-born Americans: Today immigrants are 60% less likely to be incarcerated than their U.S.-born counterparts. The recent surge of immigration across the U.S.-Mexico border has not been accompanied by a corresponding increase in crime rates in sanctuary cities such as New York and Denver.
  • “Zero sum” notions of a fixed number of American jobs are simply false. The more people work and spend their wages, the more our economy grows and provides jobs for everyone, regardless of where they were born. According to a July Congressional Budget Office report, an increase in immigration from 2021 through 2026 is projected to boost federal revenues as well as spending. This is expected to lower federal deficits by a net $900 billion over the next decade, primarily because new arrivals work, pay taxes and stimulate economic growth, increasing incomes and tax revenues for everyone. That will boost the gross domestic product by $9 trillion by increasing population, labor force participation and productivity.

Most business people who rely on American labor and consumers are well aware of many of these forces. They know that expelling immigrants would shrink the U.S. economy and make it less competitive with other nations.

We know the consequences of immigration bans from experience dating to the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, enacted in an era of racial violence such as the 1871 massacre that killed 19 in Los Angeles’ Chinatown. A recent study showed that the act not only significantly reduced the number of Chinese workers of all skill levels in the country but also diminished the quality of jobs held by white and U.S.-born workers, the intended beneficiaries of the law. It led to a 62% decline in manufacturing output and hindered economic growth in the Western states most affected by the law for the next 50 years.

As a proud U.S. citizen who immigrated to the country in 1981, I urge other Americans who understand business and the economy to spread the good word about immigration.

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Christopher Tang is a university distinguished professor at the UCLA Anderson School of Management.

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