In San Francisco, there are so many excellent veggie burgers that there’s bound to be a great purging of frozen Boca pucks any day now. Classics in the city — true institutions like Bourdain’s favorite Sam’s, expanding newbies like the Hamburger Project, and labor-inducing mystics like the sandwich at Spruce — generally don’t care to cater to non-carnivores. But the ones that have alternatives make a compelling case for leafy cheeseburgers.

Many of the top vegan sandwiches in the Bay Area are outside the 48 hills. Toriano Gordon’s Vegan Mob is a powerhouse of combo plates, mac and cheese, and burgers from Vallejo to San Bruno. Oakland’s newcomer Hyphy Burger is a head-turner, the black bean patty blanketed in bright yellow cheese not to be forgotten. Let’s not even get into my raw, primal love of soon-to-be food truck Malibu’s. I’d weep.

Don’t get it twisted: There’s a rubric. The burger has to be well-composed like any meaty bedfellow. That means crisp lettuce, a splashy and firm tomato, plus whatever other topping may be applicable, done to the most outstanding quality. The patty, the main character, can’t be just an Impossible patty slid in, presto chango; if not adjusted for flavor, it can be bit metallic. Nor can the patty be crumbly, mealy, or cloying. A smart burger-aiolo makes their own handiwork, with dialed-in black beans (or other malleable legume) and veg, though more than a handful of these selects make the Impossible patty work.

Why you should trust me: Much to the chagrin of some readers, not every single one of my meals is an opulent Mughal Empire-esque spread of fine food. In fact, I’ve eaten quite simply since 2016 — and strictly vegan at home for almost 10 years, indulging in what I call “freeganism” once out and about. Unlike the dumpster diving version of that term, my version means that if a friend or family member makes me non-vegan food, I’ll dig in. Further, once going in-house at Eater, I began eating whole hog at restaurants, though my preference is still to err on the leafy side of life. I’m an old head on the plant-based burger front at this point — we’re familiar frenemies. Note that, while some of these burgers fit the definition of vegan, a few due include dairy and other non-vegan ingredients.

For the bougie bites: Roam

Few burgers in the Bay come standard with Umaro’s Berkeley-based seaweed bacon and Violife’s dairy-free cheddar. Marin County-raised Joshua Spiegelman’s upscale fast-food spot has one of the most impressive homemade patties in the scene. It’s comprised of quinoa, black beans, brown rice, and dates, amongst other things, making it a high scorer in my personal categories. At $15, it’s also not much more expensive than its competition. This restaurant’s veggie patty can be subbed into other sandwiches, too — a rarity. Roam Burgers (1923 Fillmore Street)

For the trend-chaser: Smish Smash

No one reading this needs a smash burger intro. For those looking to keep it crispy and thin, this recent Saluhall addition is a must. There’s a real meatiness to the smash burger that’s tough to oversell: The onions reduce atomically, the meat nearly dematerializing into all crispy edges, making for an oily, beefy delight that’s eaten as quickly as the magicians behind the grill can make it. Such unrefined joy can be made vegetarian with an Impossible patty for just $1 extra, and most of the burgers go for under $13. Keep it cheap and powerful with the Reggie Miller, a cheeseburger through and through for $11 total. Smish Smash (945 Market Street)

For the late-night: Om Sabor

Chefs Dhanistha Rivera and Luis Flores’s restaurant tucked inside Hayes Valley’s Phonobar is famous for diners routinely yelping, “This is vegan!?” like paid extras in a margarine commercial. Same goes for its burger: a $10 medley of Impossible meat, roasted onions and peppers, salsa macha aioli, and pickled red onions on a pretzel bun. Sized appropriately, the Impossible is paired with enough flavor to keep that metallic edge at bay. Plus, the kitchen stays open until 10 p.m. For this level of quality, and in an area not known for nightlife, that’s pretty late! Om Sabor (370 Grove Street)

• Aiso: The newest in the game is this all-vegan bar and restaurant that took over the longtime Lark location on 18th Street. Here, it’s the jerk slider, a tiny construction of Impossible patty, miso mayo, and pineapple slaw. Aiso, 4068 18th Street

• Gott’s: Gott’s is the new classic. I recommend going with the veggie patty over the Impossible, as you get less of that cloyingness that Impossible can impart, and it’s a cost-free swap. Try it on the Gruyere and caramelized onion burger if you know what’s good for ya. Gott’s Roadside, 1 Ferry Building #6

• Greens: It doesn’t get much more classic than one of the city’s oldest, finest riffs. This one comes in at $22 and is the most expensive of my long-list picks. That said, the lentil mushroom patty and avocado crema also make it one of the most iconic in the city. Greens, 2 Marina Boulevard

• Native Burger: This unfussy Geary Boulevard burger spot offers a straight-up Impossible patty with crisp lettuce and juicy tomato. To be clear, this is a straight-hamburger — no cheese in sight. Native Burger, 3420 Geary Boulevard

• Rad Radish: There are rotating specials at this relative newcomer Hayes Valley restaurant from the Back of House group. Try the Le Rad Royale Burger for $16 — crowned with vegan provolone — while you can. Rad Radish, 301 Hayes Street

• Whiz Burger: Like Beep’s on Ocean Avenue, Whiz is one of those San Francisco burger spots that’s held on through the many tech makeovers. The Impossible burger here goes for a cool $9.30, which is basically absurd. Whiz Burgers Drive-In, 700 South Van Ness Avenue