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Fashion’s Historic Shake-Up

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Fashion’s Historic Shake-Up

Pierpaolo Piccioli for

Balenciaga

Louise Trotter for

Bottega Veneta

Matthieu Blazy for

Chanel

Jonathan Anderson for

Dior

Duran Lantink for

Jean Paul Gaultier

Simone Bellotti for

Jil Sander

Jake Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for

Loewe

Glenn Martens for

Maison Margiela

Miguel Castro Freitas for

Mugler

This fall, a dozen of the biggest brands in fashion will have new talent at the helm. What makes them tick?

Welcome to the season of seismic fashion change. The tectonic plates of the industry are shifting, remaking the landscape in a way that hasn’t been seen since … well, ever. This year almost 20 fashion houses, including some of the most famous, influential names (Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga), appointed new designers, meaning the clothes you see in stores or on the street, or when you’re immersed in the endless digital scroll, will soon be very different.

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After all, each designer will be trying to make their mark, break through the noise and redefine the very idea of chic, not to mention the look of the decade. That’s the opportunity. Those are the stakes.

Yet for all the change taking place, the actual change makers seem, at least on the surface, very much the same.

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Of the 13 designers whose work we will see this season, only one is a woman — Louise Trotter, at Bottega Veneta. A dozen are white men, and 10 are between the ages of 40 and 47. Ten are Europeans and three are Americans. Despite the clear need to bring imagination to the catwalk, there seems to be a general lack of imagination when it comes to deciding whom to hire.

To get below the very similar surface, we asked this season’s new guard a set of simple questions — not about their plans for their brands but about their taste: their personal likes and dislikes when it comes to the stuff that surrounds them and the choices they make.

Who are the men and woman who will shape how you dress for the foreseeable future? Read on.

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Pierpaolo Piccioli for

Balenciaga

Mr. Piccioli, 57, comes to Balenciaga after 25 years at Valentino, 16 of them as creative director, where he was widely recognized for his bold use of color, his humanity (he regularly brought his entire couture atelier onto the runway for a bow) and his lack of grandiosity. (At Valentino he eschewed living in Rome to stay in the small seaside town where his family grew up.) Mr. Piccioli started his gig at Balenciaga by working alongside Demna, then its creative director, a rarity in fashion (two creative directors overlapping!) but one intended to create an easy transition for the team.

I feel best wearing: My uniform — black tee, black pants
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‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: I look at the way they wear the outfit.

I skimp on when buying: I never skimp.

‭ I splurge on: I always splurge.

‭I am never caught wearing: Cowboy boots

‭Item I will never give up: My coral pendants on red silk ribbons.
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Louise Trotter for

Bottega Veneta

Ms. Trotter, 55, is the first woman to lead Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house known for its intrecciato woven handbags, in more than 20 years — and only the second since the house was founded in 1966. A Brit and the mother of three, she was also the first woman to become creative director of Lacoste, which she ran for five years before taking over Carven, a label she put back on the fashion map. Now she is bringing her bent for minimalist luxury and dry wit to Milan.

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I feel best wearing: Men’s wear

‭ I splurge on: Vintage watches and jewelry

I am never caught wearing: You can hold me to never wearing paisley.

‭Item I will never let go of: My grandmother’s wedding ring

Favorite piece of art: It would have to be a portrait. A Lucian Freud, a Franz Gertsch, a Celia Paul.
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Favorite cologne: My husband’s

Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla! I have a test in a gelateria. If they can master vanilla, they can do anything.

Favorite pen: I use pencils much more. My current pencil is a Black Wing 602 from Japan.

Mr. Rider, 44, didn’t have a traditional fashion education — he went to Brown University — but an early stint at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière followed by 10 years at Celine under Phoebe Philo and six years as creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren prepared him for his new post. He brought Celine back to the official runway after Hedi Slimane, his immediate predecessor, decided he would be beholden to no schedule but his own, and even brought Anna Wintour back to the front row, Mr. Slimane having banned her from the house. It’s the new open-door policy.

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I feel best wearing: Shorts

‭I am never caught wearing: Sunscreen

Item I will never give up: Dad’s ring
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Favorite cologne: Don’t wear it

Favorite stationery: Don’t have any

Favorite ice cream flavor: Coffee

Favorite music for working out: Anything by Timbaland

Favorite flower for saying thank you: Wildflowers
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Matthieu Blazy for

Chanel

Mr. Blazy, 41, snagged the most coveted job in fashion in December after a six-month search by Chanel. He will be only the fourth designer in Chanel’s history, tasked with transforming the brand for a new generation. Most recently he did exactly that for Bottega Veneta, with a fashion sleight of hand that made leather look like denim — and leather look like cotton, and leather look like flannel. Now, as he comes home to Paris, he is expected to work a similar alchemy on the pearls, camellias and CCs of the house that Coco built and Karl Lagerfeld redefined.

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I feel best wearing: Nothing

I am never caught wearing: A printed T-shirt

Item I will never give up: The broken Bulova Accutron watch my father gave me

Favorite piece of art: “The Three Graces” by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Favorite cologne: Vetiver
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Favorite ice cream flavor: Stracciatella

Favorite bed linen: Always white

Favorite music for working out: 1990s Euro dance

Jonathan Anderson for

Dior

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Mr. Anderson, 40, made fashion history when he became the first Dior designer since Christian Dior himself to be in charge of both women’s and men’s wear for the house. (Moreover, Mr. Dior dabbled only in men’s pieces and never did a full collection, so in some ways Mr. Anderson is a pioneer.) An 11-year stint at Loewe, where he took the brand from largely irrelevant to one of the hottest names in fashion, with an estimated $2 billion in revenue, convinced LVMH, which owns Dior, that Mr. Anderson was the man to unite the two sides of the couture house. If that wasn’t a big enough gig, he’s still moonlighting as Luca Guadagnino’s costume designer.

I feel best wearing: Nothing

I skimp on when buying: Clothing
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‭ I splurge on: Art

‭ I am never caught wearing: Florals

‭ Item I will never let go of: A navy crew-neck sweater

Favorite piece of art‬: Paul Thek, “Untitled (Diver)”

Favorite ‭cologne‬: Cheap body deodorant
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Favorite‭ stationery‬: Lined Paper

Favorite dinner party main course‬: Cottage pie

Favorite‭ car‬: Land Rover Defender 90

Favorite ‭music for working out: Mash-up of SoundCloud bad remixes

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Eyebrows were raised when the mononymic Demna, 44, announced that after a decade, he was leaving Balenciaga, the fashion house he had taken from ivory tower elegance to pop culture phenomenon, to attempt a turnaround at Gucci. The Georgian-born designer, who will split his time between Los Angeles and Milan, now has to prove he can achieve the rare feat of reinventing himself and his (new) house, not merely repeat himself. Fans like Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman and Michelle Yeoh will be watching.

I feel best wearing: My own clothes.

The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Colors
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‭ I skimp on when buying: I don’t skimp on much.

‭ Item I will never let go of: My wedding ring.

Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla

Favorite ‭cologne‬: Gucci Envy

Favorite‭ dinner party main course: No idea
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Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: Manhattan

Favorite‭ shampoo: Head & Shoulders

Favorite ‭music for working out: I listen to political podcasts when I work out.

Duran Lantink for

Jean Paul Gaultier

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Mr. Lantink, 38, founded his namesake label in 2019, a year after Janelle Monáe wore his “vagina” pants in her “Pynk” music video. The Dutch designer won the Andam Special Prize in 2023 and LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize in 2024, but it was a stunt during his fall 2025 ready-to-wear show — putting a topless man in a prosthetic female torso and vice versa — that made him internet famous. He shares a glee in thumbing his nose at propriety with the Gaultier founder, not to mention a facility for using fabric to reshape the body.

I feel best wearing: White

The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
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‭ I skimp on when buying: Clothes

‭I splurge on: Books

I am never caught wearing: Latex

Item I will never give up: A 1990s White & Lethal trash shirt by Walter Van Beirendonck that I have since the age of 12

Favorite‭ piece of art: “Fountain” by Marcel Duchamp
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Favorite cologne: Brutus by Orto Parisi

Favorite‭ car: Bike

Favorite ‭music for working out: I play tennis, so no music

Simone Bellotti for

Jil Sander

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No one ever thought the Swiss label Bally would be a must-see of Milan Fashion Week, but that’s what happened after Mr. Bellotti, 47, took over in 2022 after 16 years behind the scenes at Gucci. At Bally, his penchant for accessorizing rigorous tailoring with strawberries and cowbells demanded that everyone look twice and should serve him well at Jil Sander, where he takes over from Luke and Lucie Meier.

I feel best wearing: Denim and a blue wool sweater

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: The face and shoes
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‭ I am never caught wearing: Skinny pants

Favorite‭ piece of art: “Study after Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X” by Francis Bacon

Favorite pen: An old Parker Ciselè in silver from my father

Flowers for saying thank you: For everything, buttercups

Favorite ‭music for working out: Always music, but not for workout
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Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for

Loewe

Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez, both 47, became the latest Americans in Paris when they were handed the reins of Loewe earlier this year. As part of the deal, they stepped down from Proenza Schouler, the New York label they founded in 2002 (just after graduating from Parsons School of Design) and upped stakes for France, the better to concentrate on Loewe, where they are following in the (large) footsteps of Jonathan Anderson.

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I feel best wearing: J: My old clothes. L: New clothes.

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: J/L: Shoes.

‭ I am never caught wearing: J: Jewelry. L: Flip-flops.

‭ Item I will never give up: L: A small gold chain my mother gave me as a kid that I never take off. J: Our farmhouse in Massachusetts.

Favorite‭ cocktail to order at a bar: J/L: Martini.
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Favorite pen: J/L: Pentel mechanical pencil 0.5.

Favorite car: J: Vintage Land Rover Defender. L: Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser.

Glenn Martens for

Maison Margiela

Like Martin Margiela, Glenn Martens, 42, is Belgian. Like Martin Margiela, he went to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. (Mr. Martens graduated first in his class.) Like Mr. Margiela, he has a propensity for experimentalism and challenging classical ideas of beauty. Moreover, he is not just taking over the house that Mr. Margiela built, he is following in the footsteps of John Galliano, the most recent creative director, and doing double duty at Diesel, which he also designs.

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I feel best wearing: Black T-shirt and black denim

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes

‭ I skimp on when buying: I buy my deodorant at the supermarket.
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‭ I splurge on: Food and drink

I am never caught wearing: Socklets

Item I will never give up: My jewelry: a ring that was my mothers that she wore her whole life, even when she gave birth to my brother and me; another ring that was my dad’s engagement ring, which he received from my mother; and necklaces and trinkets from friends and past lovers. I never take any of them off.

Favorite shampoo: Whatever stops balding

Favorite ice cream flavor: Cookie Dough
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Miguel Castro Freitas for

Mugler

Mr. Castro Freitas, 45, was catapulted from unknown to must-know overnight when he was chosen to succeed Casey Cadwallader at Mugler, the house that big shoulders, bigger spectacles and a perfume called Angel built. Still, the Portuguese designer and Central Saint Martins grad has Dior (under John Galliano), Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten on his résumé.

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I feel best wearing: Shorts

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes

‭I am never caught wearing: Red

Item I will never let go of: A black T-shirt

Favorite dinner party main course: Roasted chicken and fingerling potatoes, with lots of garlic, onions and herbs.
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Favorite music for working out: Disco or house music

Favorite flowers for saying thank you: A combination of different seasonal flowers, specially if chosen from Debeaulieu, my favorite flower boutique in Paris.

Favorite joke: Current politics

The first Versace creative director who is not actually a Versace, Mr. Vitale, 41, comes to the fashion house after 15 years at Miu Miu, most recently as design director under Miuccia Prada during its period of explosive growth. His experience working with Mrs. P should stand him in good stead at Versace, since the Prada Group acquired the brand with the Medusa logo earlier this year.

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I feel best wearing: It’s not that I feel best wearing them, but it takes only one garment to feel dressed, like a pair of socks or maybe a few rings and an earring.

‭ I skimp on: Most things

I splurge on: Gestures. The memory of the response outlasts any object. Admittedly, I spend most money on flowers, especially strong smelling ones like lily of the valley or helichrysum italicum.
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I am never caught wearing: A watch

Favorite cologne: I don’t really wear it. I prefer to scent the things around me — bedsheets, underwear, napkins — so I end up creating a kind of personal fragrance from the mix of everything in my space.

Favorite piece of art: A statue at Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, the Farnese Hercules, which I’m reluctant to even think of as art. The beauty is that it’s just there, like a God among men. It’s Hercules but a little relaxed with a quiet melancholy about him.

Favorite pen: Black Papermate Flair, medium, for both sketching and writing.

Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: I used to work at a bar in Brera called Jamaica — no frills, just a good old-fashioned bar, so I appreciate the simplicity of a vodka soda. Whichever vodka, whichever soda water, it’s impossible to mess up.
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Favorite flowers for saying thank you: In the last few weeks I’ve been sending chamomile flowers. There’s nothing grand about chamomile, so it feels like a very honest gesture — quite naked and vulnerable, actually, but that makes it an earnest way to say “Sincerely, thank you.”

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Sam Neill, known for ‘Jurassic Park’ and ‘The Piano,’ dies at 78, his family says

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Sam Neill, known for ‘Jurassic Park’ and ‘The Piano,’ dies at 78, his family says

Sam Neill arrives at the premiere of “Apples Never Fall” on March 12, 2024, in Los Angeles.

Richard Shotwell/AP Photo/Invision


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Richard Shotwell/AP Photo/Invision

WELLINGTON, New Zealand — Sam Neill, a smoothly elegant and versatile actor whose career moved from art film to blockbuster as he dodged velociraptors in “Jurassic Park” to playing Holly Hunter’s husband in “The Piano,” has died. He was 78.

In 2023, Neill disclosed he had been diagnosed with angioimmunoblastic T-cell lymphoma, a rare type of non-Hodgkin lymphoma. Neill died on Monday in Sydney, according to a statement posted to the actor’s social media page.

His death was “sudden and unexpected,” the statement said, adding that he “remained cancer free” when he died. A cause of death wasn’t specified.

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“Sam was surrounded by family and passed with the dignity that has characterised his whole life,” his family wrote.

Actor came to world’s notice with ‘Dead Calm’ and ‘My Brilliant Career’

Neill was one of a host of actors and directors who achieved international fame after an explosion of Australian films that began in the late 1970s, a list that includes Paul Hogan, Mel Gibson, Geoffrey Rush, Russell Crowe, Jane Campion, Peter Weir and Gillian Armstrong. His range was remarkable, playing opposite Helena Bonham Carter in the Alan Ayckbourn comedy “Sweet Revenge” to chopping off Hunter’s finger in “The Piano” to poking his own eyes out in the sci-fi horror “Event Horizon.”

In “Omen III: The Final Conflict,” he played Damien the Antichrist and he also played Cardinal Thomas Wolsey in “The Tudors.”

The actor first came to the attention of international audiences in Armstrong’s 1979 film “My Brilliant Career,” which also introduced Judy Davis. He later appeared in Phillip Noyce’s “Dead Calm,” a classy thriller set at sea and co-starring the then-relatively unknown Nicole Kidman.

Neill twice co-starred with Meryl Streep, in Australian director Fred Schepisi’s “Plenty” and — again for Schepisi — in “A Cry in the Dark,” a film about the sensationalized aftermath of a dingo killing a baby in the Australian Outback. He earned an Emmy nomination for his performance in the title role of the 1998 miniseries “Merlin” and another as narrator of 2017’s “Wild New Zealand.”

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Like ‘rotten flesh’? Thousands rush to whiff double corpse flower at Huntington

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Like ‘rotten flesh’? Thousands rush to whiff double corpse flower at Huntington

The Huntington’s long-awaited stink has arrived. Two corpse flowers nicknamed Odora and Odorysseus have bloomed at the San Marino conservatory, drawing thousands for the rare occasion and quickly surpassing last year’s numbers.

Corpse flowers have been a staple of the Huntington since 1999, when the garden exhibited its first corpse flower. Native to Sumatra, Indonesia, these plants are endangered in the wild and only bloom for 24 to 48 hours every few years. Once bloomed, they reek of rotting flesh.

As the day goes on, these smelly specimens will close back up and collapse, losing their infamously rotten odor.

The double bloom this summer was “definitely a surprise,” said Brandon Tam, the Huntington’s associate curator of orchids. The last time multiple corpse flowers bloomed on the same day at the Huntington was in 2018.

“We knew that Odorysseus was going to bloom probably Sunday,” Tam said. “But what surprised us was that we saw that Odora was opening just a few hours after.”

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As an “inflorescence” — a plant structure containing hundreds of male and female flowers at the base — the plant usually staggers its bloom to avoid self-pollination.

A developmental irregularity caused Odora’s spadix to cave in, but the plant remains healthy, said Brandon Tam, the associate curator of orchids at the Huntington.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

Jaime Holmes from San Gabriel holds her nose in front of the blooming corpse flowers.

Jaime Holmes from San Gabriel holds her nose in front of the blooming corpse flowers.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

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But sometimes, “these plants have a mind of their own,” Tam said.

Climate factors can influence when they bloom. Tam said Southern California’s recent high humidity may have signaled a prime environment for the plants to unfurl.

Visitors may have noticed that Odorysseus’ spadix — the conic protrusion emerging upward from the plant — was much taller than Odora’s, which had caved in. Tam said Odora’s spadix was a developmental irregularity, but emphasized the plant remains healthy.

“It just looks a little different — completely normal,” Tam said. “When it reblooms for us in three to four years, it’ll look just perfectly fine.”

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At the time of the bloom, Odorysseus measured 71 inches in height, and Odora measured 41.

As of 8:51 a.m., the Huntington recorded over 5,700 reservations, said Keisha Raines, the Huntington’s assistant director of news and media relations. That number easily surpassed last year’s bloom, which drew about 4,900 visitors. It also excludes walk-ins and any more reservations made throughout the day.

Parking lots quickly filled inside the Huntington, forcing some visitors to park on the streets outside.

Raines thinks the rare double bloom influenced the spike in reservations. She also believes general awareness of the corpse flower increases each summer.

“It’s kind of lore,” Raines said. “It’s just continuing to build, and more people want to see it.”

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Inside the conservatory, eager sniffers took selfies and marveled at the plants’ size and smell. Outside, the line ran all throughout the walkways, extending past the exit.

Ventura resident Michelle Shock and her 8-year-old daughter, Fable, initially came to the Huntington for a tea party at the Rose Garden, and dressed for the part in light-colored, semi-formal dresses. They scheduled the party two weeks ago and got lucky when they heard the corpse flowers were in bloom on the same day.

“I’ve always wanted to see one,” Shock said while waiting in line. “I think the last time I knew of one blooming was when I was pregnant with her. We were up in the Bay, and I missed it. So here we are now, together, which is better.”

Gastonia Goodman, 72, peers through the window at the blooming corpse flowers.

Gastonia Goodman, 72, peers through the window at the blooming corpse flowers.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

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Fable predicted the plants would smell like “rotten flesh from Minecraft.” Shock guessed they’d smell like forgotten meat in a broken freezer or animal remains on a farm.

For spouses Jennifer Kraus and Abigail Cruz, the plants smelled like rotten garbage.

“It was pretty ripe,” Kraus said. “Totally enjoyed it though.”

The couple drove two hours from the Inland Empire to catch the bloom, which had been on Cruz’s bucket list.

“The minute that we saw it on Facebook, [Kraus] started following it and making sure that we’re here when it had bloomed,” Cruz said.

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They were among the first to arrive, so the wait was short. “We were here at o-dark-30 this morning, ready to go,” Kraus said.

North Hollywood resident Lilla Saito took two hours off work to witness the corpse flowers for the first time and tracked the livestream every day, “just waiting for it to bloom.” Saito stood in line for about 45 minutes to catch a whiff, which Saito said “smelled like a trash room.”

It was Paige Patino’s first bloom too. Patino lives 10 minutes away from the Huntington and wore a T-shirt with flowers on it for the occasion. It was “really cool” to “see both of them active,” Patino said.

For Tam, this year’s stench ranks in the top three. He thinks each individual plant stinks more than previous blooms, but on top of that, he said: “The fact that we have two in bloom makes it stinkier.”

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States sue to stop Paramount-Warner Bros blockbuster merger

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States sue to stop Paramount-Warner Bros blockbuster merger

California Attorney General Rob Bonta is one of several attorneys general seeking to stop the merger of Paramount and Warner Bros. Discovery.

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A dozen states, led by California, are suing to block Paramount from buying Warner Bros. Discovery in a Hollywood mega-merger that would unite some of the nation’s largest movie studios, television newsrooms, and other entertainment properties.

“The unlawful merger of these two entertainment behemoths would lead to higher prices, lower quality, and less content for film and television, harming movie theaters, basic cable distributors, and ultimately, audiences on every sofa and movie theater seat in the U.S.,” California Attorney General Rob Bonta said in a statement announcing the suit, which was filed in federal court in California’s Northern District.

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The deal would give a wealthy family that has taken pains to show its allegiance to President Trump the effective ownership of the companies’ competing movie studios, streamers (Paramount+ and HBO Max), sports programming (CBS Sports and Turner Sports) and news divisions (CBS News and CNN) as well as a suite of cable channels, such as Comedy Central, VH1, MTV, TNT, TBS, HGTV and Discovery, among others.

The president has repeatedly praised Larry and David Ellison, the digital titan and his son who are the controlling owners of Paramount. And he has publicly urged the sale of Warner’s CNN to new owners.

“We’re trying to have CNN go in a normal path,” Trump told CNN anchor Jake Tapper yesterday at the end of an interview about the late Sen. Lindsey Graham.

In his statement Monday, Bonta said, “With this lawsuit, California and our sister states are fighting for free and fair markets, not rigged markets. America has no kings in government or our economy.”

Paramount is inviting in sovereign wealth funds from Saudi Arabia, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates as major investors who will forego voting rights. The financing proposal also envisions that the company will take on $80 billion in new debt. That will assuredly trigger major cuts throughout the combined company. Warner dramatically reduced its own debt after slashing budgets, but is still tens of billions of dollars in the red, which helped set the stage for Paramount’s unsolicited bid.

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Bonta sees “red flags”

In late June, Bonta told MS NOW’s Jacob Sobroff that the deal presented “red flags in the air everywhere.” The acquisition is valued at approximately $111 billion, including debt and major (though nonvoting) investment stakes from Saudi and other sovereign wealth funds. Bonta has armed his office for potentially costly legal battles by hiring a new batch of lawyers, including some who left the U.S. Justice Department after Trump took office a second time. He also secured new funds from the state legislature specifically for antitrust enforcement.

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