Lifestyle
L.A. brand 424 understands quality clothes, and they've never been at this level before
It’s now been a year since the luxury streetwear brand 424 opened its cave-like home and store on Melrose Place, and what the store offers on the block is decidedly different. In the words of founder Guillermo Andrade, “There’s a place for you here.” Andrade, who previously ran his store on Fairfax, offers that rare combination of accessible clothes — hoodies, jackets, jeans, tees — of the highest quality. “I’m giving you something so familiar, yet so new, so fresh, so unexpected, but obvious at the same time,” he tells Keyla Marquez, Image’s fashion director at large.
This week marked 424’s first runway show at Paris Fashion Week, which for Andrade felt like the natural culmination after seven years of making and selling clothes in Paris and Milan. To celebrate this accomplishment, Marquez sat with Andrade at his store ahead of the show to reflect on the effort and vision that brought him here. “It’s never been at this level before,” he says of the 33 looks he put together. Photographer Carlos Jaramillo was at the Paris show on Tuesday to capture some special backstage moments.
Guillermo Andrade, founder of 424, at Paris Fashion Week.
Keyla Marquez: We are here on Melrose Place. What’s good, G?!
Guillermo Andrade: It’s like the Wild West. Musicians are inclined to copy the hot song instead of sticking to the spirit in their soul. Because the label is like, “Bro, that song is a hit — if you did a version of this, it would hit.” And it’s this vicious cycle. It’s fully incestualized. It’s so far away from the original that it’s just kind of a chicken with its head cut off. It’s essentially just the blind leading the blind. Then someone stands out because they’re quirky, and then the big machine is like, “Oh my God, this has wheels, it popped off on TikTok!” And then all the main players now suck the soul of this one thing. That’s fashion.
KM: But it doesn’t have to be that way. I feel like with us, it’s really important to be intentional with the stories that we’re telling.
GA: It’s skin color, our family history, our position in this society, the community, you know? Not just L.A., not just the fashion community, but at large, the American community. Our representation is still not defined. How is it possible? We’re like f–ing half of the country. Physically.
KM: What do you think is the American Dream now?
GA: The American Dream shifted so far from that original pitch that was given to everybody. It looks like us now. We are more representative of what chasing that dream actually looks like, because we’re laboriously doing it. Like we are those animals [burrowing] through the dirt — they get to the gold. We’re in that process. I’m even owning this, like I’m patriotic now. I’m American now. Because I think we have to send a positive reflection.
When I did my first presentation in Milan, it was still kind of COVID, and I did a video contribution, and it was in the calendar and the tagline that WWD wrote was “an American in Milan.”
KM: What do you think about that?
GA: I felt some type of survivor’s guilt. But at the same time, you’re able to look at that and say, you know what? That’s my face there. And it says American on the world stage. It’s also important, so that my brothers [see] a face that looks like them attached to it. I didn’t realize that in Europe they call us Americans. I was just another immigrant, another wetback. The thing is, the second you speak English, they know you’re from California. Because especially in Italy, they love California. Specifically, L.A. — they love Los Angeles.
“The show is really a response to the state of all the work that I’ve been putting in, so now it’s time to really send that communication out to the world,” says Andrade.
KM: How was getting into Paris Fashion Week for you? Was it hard getting in?
GA: The calendar is all politics. You have to engage to a certain degree. And they play hot and cold. No matter what happens, you continue to push forward. For example, I’m not doing the show because the calendar says it’s time to do the show. I’m doing the show because I’ve been in Paris now seven years, two times a year. That’s where I do my market, that’s where I do the sales to all my stores. The brand is at a point now where I can’t walk every buyer through the collection every single time during the week that we have to do our sales. Because you lose steam after the 40th, 50th appointment of walking a buyer and telling them the story, showing them the techniques, showing them the product — you start to sound like a broken record. The buyer can really feel it when you deliver a singular message that they can see, that they can feel.
KM: Your appointments are more intentional.
GA: The show is really a response to the state of all the work that I’ve been putting in, so now it’s time to really send that communication out to the world. I’m at the moment now where every single piece in that rack, even though there’s a lot of pieces, they all connect to each other. Nothing in the collection is there by accident. You can wear the whole collection together.
KM: It’s literally like one person’s closet. I’m like, “G just makes clothes for himself and somehow it sells.”
GA: One hundred percent. And it took me nine years now, more or less.
KM: But you found the code that works for you.
GA: This is finally it. It’s never been at this level before. Both the quality of the product execution and to make and deliver production at that level. For independent brands, it’s not feasible. My personal life savings is in that s—. It’s not just like, “Oh, I got some money from these people, now I make nice things.” No, those are painstaking ideas that take years and years to develop.
KM: I feel like every collection is just a different variation of the last, and it just gets better and better.
GA: There are a lot of pieces that I’ve been making every season since I started, literally the same piece over and over and over and over again. And a lot of them arrived basically at the point where it’s like, don’t touch it, it’s done, it’s finished. And they’re going to stay permanently. They might not be merchandising to every single season, but when we do use it, it’s finished — the trucker jacket finished, the trench coat finished, the wide leg pant finished, the skinny leg pant finished, the baggy shorts finished. I’ve finally arrived at the place where finally that jacket’s done. But we will continue to tweak it, to improve the construction to maximize our production efforts to make sure that we’re really making the best quality clothes possible.
KM: I feel like whatever medium you would have gotten into, you would have been a great storyteller. But why fashion?
GA: I’ve been chopping and screwing my clothes for as long as I can remember. I had no idea that that was a thing people do. Or that fashion was a job that people could do.
I was super poor growing up — getting evicted for living in your car poor. Actively trying to figure out how to pay your bills. But I never felt poor, so I always used clothes as a way to protect myself or shield myself. And I dressed great. I would go to wherever I had to make sure that I looked sick at school. I was just always a really savvy shopper; I was always particular about the things I would buy. I grew up wearing bootleg clothes, fake sneakers, Goodwill or thrifted stuff. I didn’t even know what thrift stores were, I just thought it was a place where rich people sell their clothes because I would go in and I would buy blazers and Armani Exchange stuff. I would buy goofy s– that was way too big on me, like pink polos or rugby shirts, and I would just oddly stitch them in the back, so in the front it would look like it fit me but then I would put a coat over so you wouldn’t be able to tell. It was super punk rock; it was more like styling just to make it look cool on me. The Oakland flea market, usually everything that was super popular they had it there, so I would just buy it, and then kids started thinking that I had a plug that they didn’t have, so then I would sell them that s— at a premium.
KM: You were already doing this in high school. It was like survival-style hustler.
GA: Since I was a kid. I had no clue that it was ever going to be my job.
KM: How long have you been making everything in Milan? How was that transition?
GA: 2017 I was ready. I wanted a perfectly sewn shirt.
KM: I was going to ask, are they annoyed that you’re always there?
GA: One hundred percent, they hate it, and when I started bringing [Valeria Semushina, my partner who styles our shows], it was even worse because she understands the language.
Yasiin Bey at the 424 Paris Fashion Week show.
Valeria Semushina: I think Italian fabric [designers have] never seen anybody crazier than you, because once [G was] like, “I want destroyed leather, it should be very destroyed.” They couldn’t understand what it meant. So, we put it on me and there is this video of me and it was very rainy outside, it’s super dirty. I was just rolling around and trying to scratch all this leather. And [G] said, “That’s how it should look.” But what’s funny is that when the product was done, they were like, “Que bello!”
GA: No one goes into Loro Piana and actually finds something cool to wear. Because when they conceptualize this dream, they did not have us in mind. Ralph Lauren included his universe, and as beautiful as it may be, it didn’t take us into account. By default, it can never be for us. We have to assimilate if we want to be a part of this world. If I want the highest quality, I have to go to a brand that offers it — and that brand never expected me to come and take part in their world. I love quality, I love products and I love interesting stories. Those brands that I just mentioned, I love them, I think they’re awesome, they just don’t love me. I have to adapt who I am as a person to take those products into my life and make them look cool on me. 424 is that: It’s saying, I get it, I love it, but I understand it’s not for me, so here’s my version.
KM: I told you, I bought your sweater three times. Three times. The first one, I bought with my best friend Isaiah at the store, we bought the same sweater together. Then we both put it in the washer, not realizing. I still wear it sometimes. It’s just not as cozy, just a little harder but still fits; I wear it to sleep sometimes. Then I bought it again on some random website that was selling it, but the story doesn’t end there. I was going to Paris for Fashion Week and randomly the girl sitting next to me was also wearing a 424 sweater. This should have been a sign to hold on to that sweater, in retrospect. But then I got hot, took it off and I lost it at the airport — I had the Uber take me back, I literally went up and down and I was so sad. I was like, “Not again!” Lastly, SSENSE had one, their last one, an XXXL, and I just bought it. It’s huge but I don’t care, that is how much I love this sweater. Three times. I am your forever customer. That’s what I love about your pieces, that they are forever pieces. I’m going to wear that sweater forever.
So, what’s next?
GA: I absolutely love the good, the bad, the ugly of everything that’s happened. Everything here is really like pure. Everything here is what I always wanted it to be.
KM: I can tell there’s so much love here. G, it’s really beautiful. Coming to your parties and just seeing everyone come together. This energy you’ve harnessed is really beautiful to experience.
GA: We have a new thing that we can do. The block, the pull-up is different now. You can pull up to Melrose Place. There’s a place for you here.
Lifestyle
‘The Fall and Rise of Reggie Dinkins’ falls before it rises — but then it soars
Tracy Morgan, left, and Daniel Radcliffe star in The Fall and Rise of Reggie Dinkins.
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Tracy Morgan, as a presence, as a persona, bends the rules of comedy spacetime around him.
Consider: He’s constitutionally incapable of tossing off a joke or an aside, because he never simply delivers a line when he can declaim it instead. He can’t help but occupy the center of any given scene he’s in — his abiding, essential weirdness inevitably pulls focus. Perhaps most mystifying to comedy nerds is the way he can take a breath in the middle of a punchline and still, somehow, land it.
That? Should be impossible. Comedy depends on, is entirely a function of, timing; jokes are delicate constructs of rhythms that take time and practice to beat into shape for maximum efficiency. But never mind that. Give this guy a non-sequitur, the nonner the better, and he’ll shout that sucker at the top of his fool lungs, and absolutely kill, every time.
Well. Not every time, and not everywhere. Because Tracy Morgan is a puzzle piece so oddly shaped he won’t fit into just any world. In fact, the only way he works is if you take the time and effort to assiduously build the entire puzzle around him.
Thankfully, the makers of his new series, The Fall and Rise of Reggie Dinkins, understand that very specific assignment. They’ve built the show around Morgan’s signature profile and paired him with an hugely unlikely comedy partner (Daniel Radcliffe).
The co-creators/co-showrunners are Robert Carlock, who was one of the showrunners on 30 Rock and co-created The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt, and Sam Means, who also worked on Girls5eva with Carlock and has written for 30 Rock and Kimmy Schmidt.
These guys know exactly what Morgan can do, even if 30 Rock relegated him to function as a kind of comedy bomb-thrower. He’d enter a scene, lob a few loud, puzzling, hilarious references that would blow up the situation onscreen, and promptly peace out through the smoke and ash left in his wake.
That can’t happen on Reggie Dinkins, as Tracy is the center of both the show, and the show-within-the-show. He plays a former NFL star disgraced by a gambling scandal who’s determined to redeem himself in the public eye. He brings in an Oscar-winning documentarian Arthur Tobin (Radcliffe) to make a movie about him and his current life.
Tobin, however, is determined to create an authentic portrait of a fallen hero, and keeps goading Dinkins to express remorse — or anything at all besides canned, feel-good platitudes. He embeds himself in Dinkins’ palatial New Jersey mansion, alongside Dinkins’ fiancée Brina (Precious Way), teenage son Carmelo (Jalyn Hall) and his former teammate Rusty (Bobby Moynihan), who lives in the basement.
If you’re thinking this means Reggie Dinkins is a show satirizing the recent rise of toothless, self-flattering documentaries about athletes and performers produced in collaboration with their subjects, you’re half-right. The show feints at that tension with some clever bits over the course of the season, but it’s never allowed to develop into a central, overarching conflict, because the show’s more interested in the affinity between Dinkins and Tobin.
Tobin, it turns out, is dealing with his own public disgrace — his emotional breakdown on the set of a blockbuster movie he was directing has gone viral — and the show becomes about exploring what these two damaged men can learn from each other.
On paper, sure: It’s an oil-and-water mixture: Dinkins (loud, rich, American, Black) and Tobin (uptight, pretentious, British, practically translucent). Morgan’s in his element, and if you’re not already aware of what a funny performer Radcliffe can be, check him out on the late lamented Miracle Workers.
Whenever these two characters are firing fusillades of jokes at each other, the series sings. But, especially in the early going, the showrunners seem determined to put Morgan and Radcliffe together in quieter, more heartfelt scenes that don’t quite work. It’s too reductive to presume this is because Morgan is a comedian and Radcliffe is an actor, but it’s hard to deny that they’re coming at those moments from radically different places, and seem to be directing their energies past each other in ways that never quite manage to connect.
Precious Way as Brina.
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It’s one reason the show flounders out of the gate, as typical pilot problems pile up — every secondary character gets introduced in a hurry and assigned a defining characteristic: Brina (the influencer), Rusty (the loser), Carmelo (the TV teen). It takes a bit too long for even the great Erika Alexander, who plays Dinkins’ ex-wife and current manager Monica, to get something to play besides the uber-competent, work-addicted businesswoman.
But then, there are the jokes. My god, these jokes.
Reggie Dinkins, like 30 Rock and Kimmy Schmidt before it, is a joke machine, firing off bit after bit after bit. But where those shows were only too happy to exist as high-key joke-engines first, and character comedies second, Dinkins is operating in a slightly lower register. It’s deliberately pitched to feel a bit more grounded, a bit less frenetic. (To be fair: Every show in the history of the medium can be categorized as more grounded and less frenetic than 30 Rock and Kimmy Schmidt — but Reggie Dinkins expressly shares those series’ comedic approach, if not their specific joke density.)
While the hit rate of Reggie Dinkins‘ jokes never achieves 30 Rock status, rest assured that in episodes coming later in the season it comfortably hovers at Kimmy Schmidt level. Which is to say: Two or three times an episode, you will encounter a joke that is so perfect, so pure, so diamond-hard that you will wonder how it has taken human civilization until 2026 Common Era to discover it.
And that’s the key — they feel discovered. The jokes I’m talking about don’t seem painstakingly wrought, though of course they were. No, they feel like they have always been there, beneath the earth, biding their time, just waiting to be found. (Here, you no doubt will be expecting me to provide some examples. Well, I’m not gonna. It’s not a critic’s job to spoil jokes this good by busting them out in some lousy review. Just watch the damn show to experience them as you’re meant to; you’ll know which ones I’m talking about.)
Now, let’s you and I talk about Bobby Moynihan.
As Rusty, Dinkins’ devoted ex-teammate who lives in the basement, Moynihan could have easily contented himself to play Pathetic Guy™ and leave it at that. Instead, he invests Rusty with such depths of earnest, deeply felt, improbably sunny emotions that he solidifies his position as show MVP with every word, every gesture, every expression. The guy can shuffle into the far background of a shot eating cereal and get a laugh, which is to say: He can be literally out-of-focus and still steal focus.
Which is why it doesn’t matter, in the end, that the locus of Reggie Dinkins‘ comedic energy isn’t found precisely where the show’s premise (Tracy Morgan! Daniel Radcliffe! Imagine the chemistry!) would have you believe it to be. This is a very, very funny — frequently hilarious — series that prizes well-written, well-timed, well-delivered jokes, and that knows how to use its actors to serve them up in the best way possible. And once it shakes off a few early stumbles and gets out of its own way, it does that better than any show on television.
This piece also appeared in NPR’s Pop Culture Happy Hour newsletter. Sign up for the newsletter so you don’t miss the next one, plus get weekly recommendations about what’s making us happy.
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Lifestyle
How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Andy Richter
Andy Richter has found his place.
The Chicago area native previously lived in New York — where he first found fame as Conan O’Brien’s sidekick on “Late Night” — before moving to Los Angeles in 2001. Three years ago, he moved to Pasadena. “Now that I live here, I would not live anywhere else,” he says.
There are some practical benefits to the city. “I am such a crabby old man now, but it’s like, there’s parking, you can park when we have to go out,” Richter says. “The notion of going to dinner in Santa Monica just feels like having nails shoved into my feet.”
In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.
But he mostly appreciates that Pasadena is “a very diverse town and just a beautiful town,” he says.
For Richter, most Sundays revolve around his family. In 2023, the comedian and actor married creative executive Jennifer Herrera and adopted her young daughter, Cornelia. (He also has two children in their 20s, William and Mercy, from his previous marriage.)
Additionally, he’s been giving his body time to recover. Richter spent last fall training and competing on the 34th season of “Dancing With the Stars.” And though he had no prior dancing experience, he won over the show’s fan base with his kindness and dedication, making it to the competition’s ninth week.
He hosts the weekly show “The Three Questions” on O’Brien’s Team Coco podcast network and still appears in films and TV shows. “I’m just taking meetings and auditioning like every other late 50s white comedy guy in L.A., sitting around waiting for the phone to ring.”
This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.
7:30 a.m.: Early rising
It’s hard for me at this advanced age to sleep much past 7:30. I have a 5 1/2-year-old, and hopefully she’ll sleep in a little bit longer so my wife and I can talk and snuggle and look at our phones at opposite ends of the bed, like everybody.
Then the dogs need to be walked. I have two dogs: a 120-pound Great Pyrenees-Border Collie-German Shepherd mix, and then at the other end of the spectrum, a seven-pound poodle mix. We were a blended dog family. When my wife and I met, I had the big dog and she had a little dog. Her first dog actually has passed, but we like that dynamic. You get kind of the best of both worlds.
8 a.m.: Breakfast at a classic diner
Then it would probably be breakfast at Shakers, which is in South Pasadena. It’s one of our favorite places. We’re kind of regulars there, and my daughter loves it. It’s easy with a 5-year-old, you’ve got to do what they want. They’re terrorists that way, especially when it comes to cuisine.
I’ve lived in Pasadena for about three years now, but I have been going to Shakers for a long time because I have a database of all the best diners in the Los Angeles metropolitan area committed to memory. There’s just something about the continuity of them that makes me feel like the world isn’t on fire. And because of L.A.’s moderate climate, the ones here stay the way they are; whereas if you get 18 feet of winter snow, you tend to wear down the diner floor, seats, everything.
So there’s a lot of really great old places that stay the same. And then there are tragic losses. There’s been some noise that Shakers is going to turn into some kind of condo development. I think that people would probably riot. They would be elderly people rioting, but they would still riot.
11 a.m.: Sandy paws
My in-laws live down in Long Beach, so after breakfast we might take the dogs down to Long Beach. There’s this dog beach there, Rosie’s Beach. I have never seen a fight there between dogs. They’re all just so happy to be out and off-leash, with an ocean and sand right there. You get a contact high from the canine joy.
1 p.m.: Lunch in Belmont Shore
That would take us to lunchtime and we’ll go somewhere down there. There’s this place, L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, in Belmont Shore. It’s fantastic for some pizza with grandma and grandpa. It’s originally from Naples. There’s also one in Hollywood where Cafe Des Artistes used to be on that weird little side street.
4 p.m.: Sunset at the gardens
We’d take grandma and grandpa home, drop the dogs off. We’d go to the Huntington and stay a couple of hours until sunset. The Japanese garden is pretty mind-blowing. You feel like you’re on the set of “Shogun.”
The main thing that I love about it is the changing of ecospheres as you walk through it. Living in the area, I drive by it a thousand times and then I remember, “Oh yeah, there’s a rainforest in here. There’s thick stands of bamboo forest that look like Vietnam.” It’s beautiful. With all three of my kids, I have spent a lot of time there.
6:30 p.m.: Mall of America
After sundown, we will go to what seems to be the only thriving mall in America — [the Shops at] Santa Anita. We are suckers for Din Tai Fung. My 24-year-old son, who’s kind of a food snob, is like, “There’s a hundred places that are better and cheaper within five minutes of there in the San Gabriel Valley.” And we’re like, “Yeah, but this is at the mall.” It’s really easy. Also, my wife is a vegetarian, and a lot of the more authentic places, there’s pork in the air. It’s really hard to find vegetarian stuff.
We have a whole system with Din Tai Fung now, which is logging in on the wait list while we’re still on the highway, or ordering takeout. There’s plenty of places in the mall with tables, you can just sit down and have your own little feast there.
There’s also a Dave & Buster’s. If you want sensory overload, you can go in there and get a big, big booze drink while you’re playing Skee-Ball with your kid.
9 p.m.: Head to bed ASAP
I am very lucky in that I’m a very good sleeper and the few times in my life when I do experience insomnia, it’s infuriating to me because I am spoiled, basically. When you’ve got a 5 1/2-year-old, there’s no real wind down. It’s just negotiations to get her into bed and to sleep as quickly as possible, so we can all pass out.
Lifestyle
Video: Prada Peels Back the Layers at Milan Fashion Week
new video loaded: Prada Peels Back the Layers at Milan Fashion Week
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