Alaska
I've Visited All 63 U.S. National Parks — and This 8.4-million Oasis Is the Most Peaceful
“What number is this for you?” a man asked the couple waiting in the cramped office, his casual tone laced with curiosity.
“56,” the woman replied, her voice steady, confident.
“And you?”
“We’re at 59,” the man said with a nod as if passing an unspoken baton.
They didn’t turn to me or the other solo traveler pacing near the doorway. They didn’t need to. We all understood the language. These numbers weren’t random; they were a measure of something bigger — a quiet badge of honor among national park chasers.
To most people, 56, 59, or even 63 wouldn’t mean a thing. But for those of us who’ve fallen in love with the challenge of visiting all the U.S. national parks, those numbers carry weight. They signify journeys taken, mountains climbed, and deserts crossed.
I glanced at the floor, trying to keep my excitement at bay. I was here to visit the last park on my list — all solo — and hit the magic number: 63.
Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images
There are more than 400 National Park Service sites in the U.S., but just 63 carry the title “national park.” They range from the Great Smoky Mountains — the most-visited park, which drew more than 13 million people in 2023 — to the stark solitude of Gates of the Arctic — the least-frequented on the list, with just 11,045 visitors in the same period.
It’s easy to see why Gates of the Arctic holds that distinction. Covering more than 8.4 million acres, all entirely above the Arctic Circle, there are no roads or trails — nothing to guide you but your determination. This park is not a place travelers stumble upon; it’s a place they must seek out.
While many visitors reach Gates of the Arctic through Fairbanks or Bettles — both short flights from Anchorage — I started my adventure in Kotzebue, a coastal town north of the Arctic Circle and another gateway to Alaska’s remote northern parks. After landing on a commercial flight from Anchorage, I walked the short distance to a short-term rental and awaited word from Golden Eagle Outfitters, the flight-seeing and air-taxi service that would take me into the Brooks Range.
Weather delays are common here, so there are no set flight times. There’s just a range of dates the outfitters recommend being in town, and they ask that you periodically check in until the weather is favorable. I spent the first day exploring the quiet streets of Kotzebue and learning about traditional Iñupiaq culture at the Northwest Arctic Heritage Center. Finally, the text came: The skies had cleared. It was time to go.
Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images
At the hangar, I joined five other travelers and our pilot for the flight into the wilderness. Bush planes are the lifeline of the Arctic, and as we took off, I couldn’t help but marvel as the landscape beneath us appeared like a living map — clear, bright blue rivers snaking through valleys, jagged peaks surrounding us, and tundra showing the vibrant first hues of autumn.
When the plane touched down on a gravel bar near the Ambler River — one of six designated wild rivers in the park — the silence was almost overwhelming: just the faint sound of water beside me and the crunch of rocks under my hiking boots.
I was here for a day trip, an experience that cost $1,750 — a steep price, but one that was worth every penny as I stepped into a world so untouched, it felt sacred. For those with the time and resources, multiday guided trips offer deeper exploration through hiking, rafting, fishing, and backpacking.
I walked along the river. The water was so clear and blue that I could see every pebble on the riverbed, and I couldn’t help but cry. Thinking of the journey that brought me here — the 63rd national park I’d visited solo — I felt at peace.
Gates of the Arctic isn’t just a place on a park checklist; it’s a reminder of how fragile and rare untouched wilderness is. The journey here stripped away modern life’s noise, distractions, and conveniences, leaving me with nothing but the raw beauty of the wild — and myself.
I didn’t just reach my final park goal in the stillness of Gates of the Arctic; I found a version of myself I hadn’t seen in a long time.
Where to Stay
There are no designated campsites or lodging within the park. Still, backcountry camping and backpacking are options for very experienced travelers or those on a trip with a guided outfitter.
On a day trip, most visitors will fly into the park from the gateway cities. Fairbanks is the largest and offers the most options, but it is also further from the park. Travelers can also find hotels, wilderness lodges, and bed-and-breakfasts in Coldfoot, Bettles, and Kotzebue.
Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images
How to Get There
There are no roads or trails into the park, but visitors can fly on chartered bush planes from multiple gateways, the most popular being from Fairbanks, Bettles, Coldfoot, or Kotzebue. Very experienced and prepared travelers can also opt to hike five miles from the gravel Dalton Highway to the park near Coldfoot.
Best Time to Visit
Most travelers will want to visit between July and mid-August, when days are long, the snow has melted, and temperatures are warmer. Mid-August to mid-September will bring fall colors, cooler temperatures, and more flight availability.
Alaska
Winter Solstice celebration takes over Cuddy Park
ANCHORAGE, Alaska (KTUU) – On the darkest weekend of the year, Alaskans gathered at Cuddy Park to mark the moments before daylight finally begins its slow return.
To celebrate, the Municipality held its annual winter solstice festival, inviting everyone for an evening of cold-weather fun.
”Some of the highlights, of course, are ice skating at the oval right over there, some holiday music, we have Santa and Mrs. Claus wandering around, we are going to have some reindeer here,” Anchorage Parks and Recs Community Engagement Coordinator, Ellen Devine, said.
In addition to seeing reindeer, folks could take a ride around the park in a horse-drawn carriage or sit down and watch a classic holiday film provided by the Alaska Bookmobile.
Despite the frigid temperature, people made their way down to the park to partake in some festive cheer.
“It is my first time in Anchorage,” attendee Stefan Grigoras said. “It’s beautiful, it is a little bit cold, I’m not going to lie, but I want to take a picture with the reindeer.”
Grigoras, like many, took part in the free hot chocolate and took his photo with St. Nick and Mrs. Claus, who were seen wandering around bringing joy to all.
“[The kids] get so excited and, you know, you have everything from run over and almost knock us down with hugs to not even wanting to come near us, and it’s just a fun combination of all that,” Mrs. Claus said.
Some of those kids were Logan and Keegan, who were out and about with their parents, Samantha and Trevor. The two kids asked for things that every child is sure to want.
“A monster truck,” Logan said.
“Bingo,” Keegan said.
”Like Bluey and Bingo,” Samantha clarified for Keegan.
The young family is originally from Arkansas and is excited to be a part of a thriving community.
“I love Anchorage’s community. There’s so many community events, and especially as a young family, it makes me really excited to get together and get to know people,” Samantha said.
As the festivities continued into the night, a familiar holiday message could be heard.
”Merry Christmas, ho, ho, ho,” the Clauses yelled!
“Merry Christmas,” Logan and Keegan said.
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Alaska
Opinion: You get what you pay for — and Alaska is paying too little
Most Alaskans, perhaps even most Americans, have a knee-jerk reaction to taxes. They affect citizens in a sensitive area — their pocketbook. Perhaps a little analysis and thought could change this normal negative reaction.
It is clear, even to the stingiest among us, that Anchorage and Alaska need more income. Our severely underfunded public schools, decreasing population — called “outmigration” these days — underfunded police force, deteriorating streets and highways, underfunded city and state park budgets, and on and on, are not going to fix themselves. We have to pay for it.
Public schools are the best example. Do you want your first grader in a classroom with 25-plus students or your intermediate composition student in a class with 35-plus students? What if the teacher needs four to five paragraphs per week per student from two such classes? Who suffers? The teacher and 70 students. It’s not rocket science — if you minimize taxes, you minimize services.
I was an English teacher in Anchorage and had students coming into my classroom at lunch for help. Why? They were ambitious. Far more students who wanted and needed help were too shy, too busy or less motivated. With smaller class sizes, those students would have gotten the help in class.
Some Alaskans resent paying taxes that help other people’s children. They often say, “But I don’t have any kids in school!” The same attitude is heard when folks say, “The streets in our neighborhood are fine.” Taxes are not designed to help specific taxpayers; they are, or should be, designed to help the entire community. And we are a community.
As well, lots of people get real excited by sales taxes, especially those who have enough income to buy lots of stuff. They argue that, on balance, sales taxes are unfair — they are regressive. That means that individuals with less income pay a higher percent of their income than individuals with a higher income, and this is true. It is minimized by exempting some expenses — medical care, groceries and the like.
A recent opinion piece published in the Anchorage Daily News explained the disadvantages of a regressive tax. In doing so, the author made an excellent argument for using a different kind of tax.
The solution is to use an income tax. With an income tax, the regulations of the tax can prevent it from being regressive by requiring higher tax rates as individual incomes increase. Alaska is one of only eight or nine states with no state income tax. For those folks all worked up about regressive sales taxes, this is the solution.
Any tax that most folks will accept depends on people seeing themselves as part of the same community. That’s not always obvious these days — but it doesn’t change the bottom line: We still have to pay our way.
Tom Nelson has lived in Anchorage more than 50 years. He is a retired school teacher, cross country ski coach, track coach, commercial fisherman and wilderness guide.
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Alaska
Maintenance delays Alaska Air Cargo operations, Christmas packages – KNOM Radio Mission
Christmas presents may be arriving later than expected for many rural communities in Alaska. That’s after Alaska Air Cargo, Alaska Airlines’ cargo-specific carrier, placed an embargo on freight shipments to and from several hubs across the state. According to Alaska Airlines, the embargo began on Dec. 16 and will end on Dec. 21.
The embargo excludes Alaska Air Cargo’s GoldStreak shipping service, designed for smaller packages and parcels, as well as live animals.
Alaska Airlines spokesperson, Tim Thompson, cited “unexpected freighter maintenance and severe weather impacting operations” as causes for the embargo.
“This embargo enables us to prioritize moving existing freight already at Alaska Air Cargo facilities to these communities,” Thompson said in an email to KNOM. “Restrictions will be lifted once the current backlog has been cleared.”
Other carriers like Northern Air Cargo have rushed to fill the gap with the Christmas holiday just a week away. The Anchorage-based company’s Vice President of Cargo Operations, Gideon Garcia, said he’s noticed an uptick in package volume.
“It’s our peak season and we’re all very busy in the air cargo industry,” Garcia said. “We are serving our customers with daily flights to our scheduled locations across the state and trying to ensure the best possible holiday season for all of our customers.”
An Alaska Air Cargo freighter arrives in Nome, Dec. 18, 2025. It was the daily-scheduled flight’s first arrival in Nome in a week after maintenance issues plagued the Alaska Air Cargo fleet. Ben Townsend photo.
Garcia said the holiday season is a tough time for all cargo carriers, but especially those flying in Alaska.
“We operate in places that many air carriers in other parts of the country just sort of shake their head at in disbelief. But to us, it’s our everyday activity,” Garcia said. “The challenges we face with windstorms, with cold weather, make it operationally challenging.”
Mike Jones is an economist at the University of Alaska Anchorage. He said a recent raft of poor weather across the state only compounded problems for Alaska Air Cargo.
“I think we’ve seen significantly worse weather at this time of year, that is at one of the most poorly timed points in the season,” Jones said.
Jones said Alaska Air Cargo is likely prioritizing goods shipped through the U.S. Postal Service’s Alaska-specific Bypass Mail program during the embargo period. That includes palletized goods destined for grocery store shelves, but not holiday gifts purchased online at vendors like Amazon.
“When a major carrier puts an embargo like this it clearly signals that they’re having an extraordinarily difficult time clearing what is already there, and they’re trying to prioritize moving that before they take on anything new,” Jones said.
According to the U.S. Bureau of Transportation Statistics, Alaska Airlines was responsible for 38% of freight shipped to Nome in December 2024.
Alaska Air Cargo’s daily scheduled flight, AS7011, between Anchorage and Nome has only been flown four times in the month of December, according to flight data from FlightRadar24. An Alaska Air Cargo 737-800 freighter landed in Nome Thursday at 11:53 a.m., its first arrival in one week. Friday’s scheduled flight has been cancelled.
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