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Huh? What surfers mean when they're carving and charging at the Olympics or at home

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Huh? What surfers mean when they're carving and charging at the Olympics or at home

Some things are inevitable when surfing in Southern California: It can feel like an exclusive club, you may have to battle traffic to get to the good waves, and overhearing a very specific, and sometimes confusing, dialogue.

When you paddle out, it’s as though you’ve entered a new world with its own language that might sound like: “Did you see that kook? He snaked me on such a gnarly wave!”

No, this is not Gen Z-speak. No “rizz” is to be found, no cap, and while what surfers might say in the water to each other may be “sus,” you’re more likely to hear “gnarly” intertwined with “drop-in” or “barrel.”

Like every generation has its slang, so do surfers and, my, how it has evolved over the decades. Some surfer lingo — like stoked — has even seeped into Southern California non-surf-related parlance, but that depends on how close you are to the coast.

“Surfing does seem to have this other layer of words that are special to us,” said Matt Warshaw, author of the “Encyclopedia of Surfing” and “The History of Surfing.” “There’s also sort of a cadence to it. It’s also trying to decode what level of irony we are throwing out there.”

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If you tuned into the Olympic surfing competition at Tahiti’s Teahupo’o, you may have noticed that the commentators are keenly aware of the subculture’s language eccentricities. They are graciously explaining surf maneuvers and terms to a global audience.

If you’re interested in joining the club or want to better navigate the lineup, knowing these words might mean the difference between a good surf experience and a bad one. In between waiting for waves, here are a few common surf terms we’ve overheard recently:

A-frame wave, n.
Used to describe a wave that breaks in the shape of an “A” and often referred to as a “peaky wave,” A-frames allow surfers to ride the breaking wave in both directions or split the peak. A-frame waves can occur almost anywhere, but more often than not they occur at sandy beaches during the right surf conditions.

Barrel, n. and v.
A barrel is used to describe a hollow, more powerful wave and the act of surfing inside the hollow section of a wave.

If you watched some of this year’s Olympic surfing competition at Tahiti’s Teahupo’o, you may have noticed the lip of the wave pitches and forms a hollowed-out curl. This is referred to as a barrel and is one of the most highly sought-after surfing experiences. When the right swell breaks over its very shallow reef, Teahupo’o is one of the most dangerous barrel rides in the world.

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Charging, v. Often used to describe a surfer aggressively paddling for bigger waves and putting all their effort into catching those waves, charging can be used as a compliment from one surfer to another, like: “I saw you charging that big wave!”

Dropping in, v. Dropping in is often used to reference a surfer cutting off another who is already riding the wave. This action is referencing a surf etiquette violation and often leads to frustration.

Gnarly, adj. Originally from the word “gnarled” meaning rough or twisted, surfers adapted this word in the 1970s to describe a situation that can be seen as extreme such as riding an intimidating wave, said Warshaw.

“That’s one we didn’t make up, but we certainly adapted for our own use,” said Warshaw, recalling a 1972 Surfer Magazine photo caption of a “horrific looking wave” that first used the word. ”It’s a perfect way to describe … the kind of waves that we look at and ride. Apply that to any situation that is a little bit hairy,” he said.

Kook, n. Occasionally spelled “kuk,” this word is often used by surfers to describe a less experienced surfer. Arguably one of the most derogatory terms in the surf world, kook has origins in the Hawaiian word “kukae,” which means crap. The word describes a surfer who doesn’t understand surf etiquette or has a poor attitude.

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“Sometimes I’ll say it if other people in the lineup have no idea what they’re doing … that’s how surfing is unfortunately,” said Joseph Barber, a recreational surfer from San Clemente. “[The waves are] a scarce resource, and when you add a lot of people who don’t know what they’re doing, it gets intense.”

Lineup, n. This refers to the area just beyond the breaking waves where surfers are waiting for waves. These spots can vary in size and, depending on the swell, are the official locations where people must paddle out to catch waves and wait their turn.

Pearling, v. When a surfer puts too much weight at the front of their board, the tip of the board will submerge in the water, often resulting in the surfer flailing or falling off their board. Akin to pearl diving, said Warshaw, the term is reminiscent of a person diving from a boat or pier.

Shaka, v. The hand gesture most closely associated with surf culture, shaka is formed by making a fist with the thumb and pinky fingers extended. Though the gesture is closely associated with Hawaiian surf culture in the 1970s, the Oxford English Dictionary says it potentially has Japanese roots.

“If a camera comes out, my hand almost automatically goes up into that [gesture], even though it looks sort of silly. It’s basically just a greeting,” said Warshaw. “The thing that used to go with shaka is ‘howzit.’ ”

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Along with shaka, howzit is a Hawaiian slang term for “how’s it going.”

Stoked, n. Stoked means to feed a fire, and in surfer language, it is an expression of pure excitement and the satisfaction one may feel after catching a good wave or completing a difficult maneuver. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, surfers began using this expression in the 1950s and has been a common expression both in and out of the water ever since.

“When surfers are feeling excited to surf, they might say, ‘I’m so stoked,’ ‘I’m psyching’ or, my personal favorite, ‘I’m frothing,’ ” said Kevin Tran, a recreational surfer from San Clemente.

As you paddle out to the lineup, remember that surfing is more than just riding waves — it’s a community with its own subculture that can vary from locale to locale. Whether you’re frothing for the next set wave or just stoked to be part of the scene, understanding the language — and of course, surf etiquette — will help you navigate the surf with more confidence.

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Mundane, magic, maybe both — a new book explores ‘The Writer’s Room’

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Mundane, magic, maybe both — a new book explores ‘The Writer’s Room’

There’s a three-story house in Baltimore that looks a bit imposing. You walk up the stone steps before even getting up to the porch, and then you enter the door and you’re greeted with a glass case of literary awards. It’s The Clifton House, formerly home of Lucille Clifton.

The National Book Award-winning poet lived there with her husband, Fred, starting in 1967 until the bank foreclosed on the house in 1980. Clifton’s daughter, Sidney Clifton, has since revived the house and turned it into a cultural hub, hosting artists, readings, workshops and more. But even during a February visit, in the mid-afternoon with no organized events on, the house feels full.

The corner of Lucille Clifton's bedroom, where she would wake up and write in the mornings

The corner of Lucille Clifton’s bedroom, where she would wake up and write in the mornings

Andrew Limbong/NPR


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Andrew Limbong/NPR

“There’s a presence here,” Clifton House Executive Director Joël Díaz told me. “There’s a presence here that sits at attention.”

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Sometimes, rooms where famous writers worked can be places of ineffable magic. Other times, they can just be rooms.

The Writer’s Room: The Hidden Worlds That Shape the Books We Love

Princeton University Press

Katie da Cunha Lewin is the author of the new book, The Writer’s Room: The Hidden Worlds That Shape the Books We Love, which explores the appeal of these rooms. Lewin is a big Virginia Woolf fan, and the very first place Lewin visited working on the book was Monk’s House — Woolf’s summer home in Sussex, England. On the way there, there were dreams of seeing Woolf’s desk, of retracing Woolf’s steps and imagining what her creative process would feel like. It turned out to be a bit of a disappointment for Lewin — everything interesting was behind glass, she said. Still, in the book Lewin writes about how she took a picture of the room and saved it on her phone, going back to check it and re-check it, “in the hope it would allow me some of its magic.”

Let’s be real, writing is a little boring. Unlike a band on fire in the recording studio, or a painter possessed in their studio, the visual image of a writer sitting at a desk click-clacking away at a keyboard or scribbling on a piece of paper isn’t particularly exciting. And yet, the myth of the writer’s room continues to enrapture us. You can head to Massachusetts to see where Louisa May Alcott wrote Little Women. Or go down to Florida to visit the home of Zora Neale Hurston. Or book a stay at the Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald Museum in Alabama, where the famous couple lived for a time. But what, exactly, is the draw?

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Lewin said in an interview that whenever she was at a book event or an author reading, an audience question about the writer’s writing space came up. And yes, some of this is basic fan-driven curiosity. But also “it started to occur to me that it was a central mystery about writing, as if writing is a magic thing that just happens rather than actually labor,” she said.

In a lot of ways, the book is a debunking of the myths we’re presented about writers in their rooms. She writes about the types of writers who couldn’t lock themselves in an office for hours on end, and instead had to find moments in-between to work on their art. She covers the writers who make a big show of their rooms, as a way to seem more writerly. She writes about writers who have had their homes and rooms preserved, versus the ones whose rooms have been lost to time and new real estate developments. The central argument of the book is that there is no magic formula to writing — that there is no daily to-do list to follow, no just-right office chair to buy in order to become a writer. You just have to write.

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Bruce Johnston Retiring From The Beach Boys After 61 Years

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Bruce Johnston Retiring From The Beach Boys After 61 Years

Bruce Johnston
I’m Riding My Last Wave With The Beach Boys

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On the brink of death, a woman is saved by a stranger and his family

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On the brink of death, a woman is saved by a stranger and his family

In 1982, Jean Muenchrath was injured in a mountaineering accident and on the brink of death when a stranger and his family went out of their way to save her life.

Jean Muenchrath


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Jean Muenchrath

In early May 1982, Jean Muenchrath and her boyfriend set out on a mountaineering trip in the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range in California. They had done many backcountry trips in the area before, so the terrain was somewhat familiar to both of them. But after they reached one of the summits, a violent storm swept in. It began to snow heavily, and soon the pair was engulfed in a blizzard, with thunder and lightning reverberating around them.

“Getting struck and killed by lightning was a real possibility since we were the highest thing around for miles and lightning was striking all around us,” Muenchrath said.

To reach safer ground, they decided to abandon their plan of taking a trail back. Instead, using their ice axes, they climbed down the face of the mountain through steep and icy snow chutes.

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They were both skilled at this type of descent, but at one particularly difficult part of the route, Muenchrath slipped and tumbled over 100 feet down the rocky mountain face. She barely survived the fall and suffered life-threatening injuries.

This was before cellular or satellite phones, so calling for help wasn’t an option. The couple was forced to hike through deep snow back to the trailhead. Once they arrived, Muenchrath collapsed in the parking lot. It had been five days since she’d fallen.

 ”My clothes were bloody. I had multiple fractures in my spine and pelvis, a head injury and gangrene from a deep wound,” Muenchrath said.

Not long after they reached the trailhead parking lot, a car pulled in. A man was driving, with his wife in the passenger seat and their baby in the back. As soon as the man saw Muenchrath’s condition, he ran over to help.

 ”He gently stroked my head, and he held my face [and] reassured me by saying something like, ‘You’re going to be OK now. I’ll be right back to get you,’” Muenchrath remembered.

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For the first time in days, her panic began to lift.

“My unsung hero gave me hope that I’d reach a hospital and I’d survive. He took away my fears.”

Within a few minutes, the man had unpacked his car. His wife agreed to stay back in the parking lot with their baby in order to make room for Muenchrath, her boyfriend and their backpacks.

The man drove them to a nearby town so that the couple could get medical treatment.

“I remember looking into the eyes of my unsung hero as he carried me into the emergency room in Lone Pine, California. I was so weak, I couldn’t find the words to express the gratitude I felt in my heart.”

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The gratitude she felt that day only grew. Now, nearly 45 years later, she still thinks about the man and his family.

 ”He gave me the gift of allowing me to live my life and my dreams,” Muenchrath said.

At some point along the way, the man gave Muenchrath his contact information. But in the chaos of the day, she lost it and has never been able to find him.

 ”If I knew where my unsung hero was today, I would fly across the country to meet him again. I’d hug him, buy him a meal and tell him how much he continues to mean to me by saving my life. Wherever you are, I say thank you from the depths of my being.”

My Unsung Hero is also a podcast — new episodes are released every Tuesday. To share the story of your unsung hero with the Hidden Brain team, record a voice memo on your phone and send it to myunsunghero@hiddenbrain.org.

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