Lifestyle
Huh? What surfers mean when they're carving and charging at the Olympics or at home
Some things are inevitable when surfing in Southern California: It can feel like an exclusive club, you may have to battle traffic to get to the good waves, and overhearing a very specific, and sometimes confusing, dialogue.
When you paddle out, it’s as though you’ve entered a new world with its own language that might sound like: “Did you see that kook? He snaked me on such a gnarly wave!”
No, this is not Gen Z-speak. No “rizz” is to be found, no cap, and while what surfers might say in the water to each other may be “sus,” you’re more likely to hear “gnarly” intertwined with “drop-in” or “barrel.”
Like every generation has its slang, so do surfers and, my, how it has evolved over the decades. Some surfer lingo — like stoked — has even seeped into Southern California non-surf-related parlance, but that depends on how close you are to the coast.
“Surfing does seem to have this other layer of words that are special to us,” said Matt Warshaw, author of the “Encyclopedia of Surfing” and “The History of Surfing.” “There’s also sort of a cadence to it. It’s also trying to decode what level of irony we are throwing out there.”
If you tuned into the Olympic surfing competition at Tahiti’s Teahupo’o, you may have noticed that the commentators are keenly aware of the subculture’s language eccentricities. They are graciously explaining surf maneuvers and terms to a global audience.
If you’re interested in joining the club or want to better navigate the lineup, knowing these words might mean the difference between a good surf experience and a bad one. In between waiting for waves, here are a few common surf terms we’ve overheard recently:
A-frame wave, n.
Used to describe a wave that breaks in the shape of an “A” and often referred to as a “peaky wave,” A-frames allow surfers to ride the breaking wave in both directions or split the peak. A-frame waves can occur almost anywhere, but more often than not they occur at sandy beaches during the right surf conditions.
Barrel, n. and v.
A barrel is used to describe a hollow, more powerful wave and the act of surfing inside the hollow section of a wave.
If you watched some of this year’s Olympic surfing competition at Tahiti’s Teahupo’o, you may have noticed the lip of the wave pitches and forms a hollowed-out curl. This is referred to as a barrel and is one of the most highly sought-after surfing experiences. When the right swell breaks over its very shallow reef, Teahupo’o is one of the most dangerous barrel rides in the world.
Charging, v. Often used to describe a surfer aggressively paddling for bigger waves and putting all their effort into catching those waves, charging can be used as a compliment from one surfer to another, like: “I saw you charging that big wave!”
Dropping in, v. Dropping in is often used to reference a surfer cutting off another who is already riding the wave. This action is referencing a surf etiquette violation and often leads to frustration.
Gnarly, adj. Originally from the word “gnarled” meaning rough or twisted, surfers adapted this word in the 1970s to describe a situation that can be seen as extreme such as riding an intimidating wave, said Warshaw.
“That’s one we didn’t make up, but we certainly adapted for our own use,” said Warshaw, recalling a 1972 Surfer Magazine photo caption of a “horrific looking wave” that first used the word. ”It’s a perfect way to describe … the kind of waves that we look at and ride. Apply that to any situation that is a little bit hairy,” he said.
Kook, n. Occasionally spelled “kuk,” this word is often used by surfers to describe a less experienced surfer. Arguably one of the most derogatory terms in the surf world, kook has origins in the Hawaiian word “kukae,” which means crap. The word describes a surfer who doesn’t understand surf etiquette or has a poor attitude.
“Sometimes I’ll say it if other people in the lineup have no idea what they’re doing … that’s how surfing is unfortunately,” said Joseph Barber, a recreational surfer from San Clemente. “[The waves are] a scarce resource, and when you add a lot of people who don’t know what they’re doing, it gets intense.”
Lineup, n. This refers to the area just beyond the breaking waves where surfers are waiting for waves. These spots can vary in size and, depending on the swell, are the official locations where people must paddle out to catch waves and wait their turn.
Pearling, v. When a surfer puts too much weight at the front of their board, the tip of the board will submerge in the water, often resulting in the surfer flailing or falling off their board. Akin to pearl diving, said Warshaw, the term is reminiscent of a person diving from a boat or pier.
Shaka, v. The hand gesture most closely associated with surf culture, shaka is formed by making a fist with the thumb and pinky fingers extended. Though the gesture is closely associated with Hawaiian surf culture in the 1970s, the Oxford English Dictionary says it potentially has Japanese roots.
“If a camera comes out, my hand almost automatically goes up into that [gesture], even though it looks sort of silly. It’s basically just a greeting,” said Warshaw. “The thing that used to go with shaka is ‘howzit.’ ”
Along with shaka, howzit is a Hawaiian slang term for “how’s it going.”
Stoked, n. Stoked means to feed a fire, and in surfer language, it is an expression of pure excitement and the satisfaction one may feel after catching a good wave or completing a difficult maneuver. According to the Encyclopedia of Surfing, surfers began using this expression in the 1950s and has been a common expression both in and out of the water ever since.
“When surfers are feeling excited to surf, they might say, ‘I’m so stoked,’ ‘I’m psyching’ or, my personal favorite, ‘I’m frothing,’ ” said Kevin Tran, a recreational surfer from San Clemente.
As you paddle out to the lineup, remember that surfing is more than just riding waves — it’s a community with its own subculture that can vary from locale to locale. Whether you’re frothing for the next set wave or just stoked to be part of the scene, understanding the language — and of course, surf etiquette — will help you navigate the surf with more confidence.
Lifestyle
Kumail Nanjiani opens up on his regrets, critical failures and embracing fear : Wild Card with Rachel Martin
A note from Wild Card host Rachel Martin: Here’s my theory about Kumail Nanjiani: He is not a person who is afraid of his feelings. I think he’s the opposite of that kind of person.
Kumail has made his emotional life part of his comedy – whether it’s his deep and abiding love for his wife (as told in the hit movie, “The Big Sick”), his obsession with his cat or the anxiety that grips him in the middle of the night – Kumail’s brand of comedy is often about how we feel our way through living.
His new standup special is on Hulu and it’s called “Night Thoughts.”
Lifestyle
Kylie Jenner Shows Off Figure in Backless Feather Dress
Kylie Jenner
Ultimate Showgirl with Backless, Curve Hugging Gown
… At Kylie Cosmetics Holiday Party!
Published
Kylie Jenner showed up to her Kylie Cosmetics holiday party in full showgirl glam … slipping into a skin-tight, feather-trimmed, backless dress that put her hourglass figure on display.
The makeup mogul was clearly feeling herself as she posed in an IG video she shared Wednesday night, playing with the pink feathers that framed her neck and making sure to give fans a shot of her junk in the trunk as she turned around to show off the halter gown from the back. She let the drama of the dress take center stage … opting for a simple makeup look and doing her hair up in a sleek, slicked back bun with a single curl placed on her forehead.
Kylie gave more love to her fun ‘fit on her IG story, twirling around in a video set to audio that said … “Kylie Jenner! What? Oh my God, you look like a Christmas fairy.”
Last night’s showstopping ensemble was just one of the sexy looks Kylie has gifted us with as of late — just a few days ago, she showed off her famous curves in a cheerful red latex dress at the OBB Media holiday party in West Hollywood.
And before that, she was nearly spilled out of the bright orange cutout gown she wore to support her beau, Timothée Chalamet, at the Los Angeles premiere of his latest film, “Marty Supreme.” And how can we forget the figure-hugging, cleavage-baring leather jacket she showed off on the ‘gram earlier this month?
Kylie just keeps on giving this holiday season with the jaw-dropping looks — she’s certainly on our nice list!
Lifestyle
‘Harry Potter’ fans are flying to Broadway to see the original Draco Malfoy
Tom Felton, left, who played Harry Potter’s nemesis Draco Malfoy in eight films, is now playing him live on stage.
Matthew Murphy/Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
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Matthew Murphy/Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
Almost eight years after Harry Potter and the Cursed Child opened, it has become the highest grossing show on Broadway. Why? Tom Felton, who played Draco Malfoy, Harry Potter’s nemesis at Hogwarts in the eight films, is now playing him onstage.
After every performance, crowds gather at the stage door to get autographs, selfies or just a close-up glimpse of Felton.
Anna Chan flew to New York from San Francisco to see him in the show. “I grew up watching the movies and reading the books as a kid,” she said, “so just seeing him reprising his role as Draco Malfoy is really exciting and just heartwarming to see. It’s kinda like a full circle moment for him.”
Felton feels the audience’s warmth. “I’m somewhat of a bookmark in their youth on the films,” he said. “To see them as excited as I am to be doing that again on the stage was… well, it’s overwhelming and it still is every night.”
Now 38, Felton spent much of his childhood, adolescence and young adulthood getting his hair bleached blond and sneering as the bully Draco Malfoy in the films. For 10 years, he worked with some of the finest actors of British stage and screen, including Dame Maggie Smith, Alan Rickman and Gary Oldman. Felton — and all the other young cast members — learned by example.
“You know, Alan Rickman making teas for the grips,” recalled Felton, “and Jason Isaacs telling anecdotes, Helena Bonham Carter sort of just being playful. I think that’s something that made the early Potter films very special — the adults around us did not take themselves too seriously. And so that allowed us to be playful.”
Tom Felton, right, with John Skelley as Harry Potter in Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, now on Broadway.
Matthew Murphy/Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
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Matthew Murphy/Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
Post-Potter, Felton has written a memoir and has appeared in films and on London’s West End. When he was given the opportunity to play an adult Draco Malfoy on Broadway for six months, he jumped.
“I do understand the character somewhat,” he said, “although Draco now is a dad.” In the play, Harry Potter and Draco Malfoy’s sons become friends and get into a mess of trouble.
In the first act, he and the older Harry have a wizard’s duel and Felton said that, during rehearsal, he added a familiar line from the films that wasn’t in the script.
“When Harry and Draco first decide, ‘Come on, let’s have a scrap, let’s have a battle,’ I think it just came up voluntarily. I said, ‘Scared Potter?’ Felton recalled, laughing. “And then it was sort of looked over and then someone came back to me a few days later and said, ‘We’ve got it in, your line suggestion.’”
The audience gets to see Malfoy and Potter fly through the air and electrical arcs come out of their wands live onstage. “Every night you can hear or feel, rather, at least half the audience go back to their childhood or older memories,” Felton said. “The first time that they saw Draco and Harry duel. And because this one’s live and in front of your face, it’s just only more exciting, I think.”
Felton said he’s proud to be part of the Harry Potter World, on film and on Broadway. He’ll be appearing in Harry Potter and the Cursed Child through May 10.
Jennifer Vanasco edited this story for broadcast and digital. Chloee Weiner mixed the audio.
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