Denver, CO
Guatemala becoming tourism hot spot for young travelers
Adventurous travelers seeking beauty and budget thrills should look no further than Guatemala: a friendly country that remains largely unexplored by many Americans, but can be reached in as little as six hours from Denver.
A question I fielded several times before my late February trip: Why Guatemala?
My partner and I have made a habit of planning at least one international trip each year. Actually, I’ll shoulder most of the blame — nothing scratches my travel itch like a new passport stamp. But because we’re early-career professionals, with limited stockpiles of paid time off and inevitable bills, a month-long vacation to Southeast Asia or Eastern Europe is out of the question (for now).
Last summer, I found myself in a rabbit hole of research: Panama, Aruba, Curaçao. Slowly, the pieces fell together for Guatemala.
Compared to my other potential destinations, Denver International Airport offers inexpensive connecting flights to Guatemala City that take a minimum of around six hours of travel time. I started to hear about this friend or that roommate who had visited — or even temporarily moved to — the Central American country over the past few years and couldn’t get enough of it.
Social media platform TikTok features videos of jet-setters of every creed successfully journeying through the tourist destinations of Antigua and Lake Atitlán, offering tips on how to navigate the nation. By August, our accommodations were booked.
Both sets of our parents initially balked at the idea. My dad had previously flown to Guatemala City on business, and was confined within the limits of Central America’s largest metropolis. Like others in the baby boomer and Generation X demographics, much of what they’d grown up hearing about the country was related to its conditions during the Guatemalan Civil War, which lasted 36 years.
However, over the past decade, the nation’s tourism industry has consistently grown — minus a setback during the COVID-19 pandemic, according to data-gathering platform Statista. And I was hearing piqued interest from millennials and zoomers about making the trip south. At the Cherry Creek Shopping Center days before my trip, a clerk peppered me with questions about my itinerary as she considered doing the same.
After my editors gave me the green light to briefly chase a story on the ground, the trip became both work and play — four days off, two days on. I took the necessary precautions learned on my last reporting trip to Peru in the pre-COVID era: monitor travel advisories with the U.S. State Department, submit my itinerary to the agency’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program and set an appointment with a travel clinic to get relevant vaccines.
With interviews set and bags packed, we hopped on our 6 a.m. American Airlines flight, then stopped briefly at the Dallas Fort Worth International Airport, before touching down in the early afternoon at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City. On the flight, our seat neighbor — a Guatemalan who planned to visit her family for a long weekend before heading back to the U.S. — excitedly shared her recommendations, then led us through the winding halls of the airport to customs and immigration.
Guatemala’s cash economy
After a quick and easy process, we were set to embark into a new country — and learned lessons pretty quickly. We brought cash because Guatemala is a cash-reliant economy, particularly outside of its capital city. The airport provides several opportunities to exchange dollars for quetzales, with $1 worth about 8 quetzales, as of mid-April. It’s best to fork over the added exchange fee there and avoid the inconvenience of hunting for a bank like we did later.
More than three million people reside in the city’s urban area, which is made up of 21 zones — some of which tourists are advised against visiting. We stayed one night in Zone 4, which a travel blog calls “the upcoming hipster area.” Zones 9 and 10 come highly recommended, too. We felt safe and relaxed in the neighborhood around our Airbnb — a unit in a modern apartment complex, with its own private patio.
Our plans for that first day were ambitious: see the National Palace of Culture, stop by the city’s market and eat dinner at steakhouse Hacienda Real Zona 10. Instead, we took in the sunset views on the rooftop of restaurant Los Tres Tiempos in the city’s historical district, cocktails and croquetas de pache — mozzarella croquettes made of Guatemalan potato dough — in hand, before turning in. But if you’re short on time or not a big city person, then you can skip visiting the capital like most tourists do.
Disclaimer: I’m not sure what it would be like to travel through Guatemala without a Spanish speaker by my side. Spanish and even some Mayan dialects take precedence over English throughout the country. Because that’s my partner’s first language, I didn’t have to put my rudimentary skills to the test. However, I encountered plenty of Europeans and North Americans who managed to make it from Point A to Point B.

Antigua
The next morning started with the one-hour drive west to the colonial city of Antigua. Visitors have several options for transportation. Uber is available, and we used it for a short ride in Guatemala City, but I’d read enough mixed reviews for me to largely opt against it. The bravest — and stingiest — of travelers sometimes ride the chicken buses: decorated buses that serve as public transportation. However, I’d also seen a litany of online grievances, as the buses can often run unreliably and feel crowded, with the risk of pickpockets.
Instead, we used private cars and shared shuttle services to travel from town to town, which are affordable by American standards. Viator Travel served as a trusty resource for finding highly-reviewed drivers, who often arrived early and provided a smooth ride.
Our two nights in Antigua left us wishing for more time. There, activities abound — sightseeing at the famous Santa Catalina Arch and Central Park, bartering at the massive Mercado Central and eating so many piping-hot tortillas. My go-to breakfast for days in a row: plantains, refried beans, farmer’s cheese and eggs soaked in salsa, scooped into tortillas and washed down with that famous Guatemalan coffee.

Antigua is the place to buy souvenirs. I scored a Mayan cookbook, plus trinkets for my family like handmade worry dolls: tiny dolls that you tuck under your pillow to whisk away your stresses as you dream. It’s also the spot for nightlife, with several dozen bars and restaurants concentrated in a walkable area that’s both spotless and safe.
Speaking of walking, follow our lead and bring a duffle or weekend bag, instead of a suitcase. Otherwise, navigating the cobblestone roads can quickly turn into the bane of your existence. And wear comfortable sneakers. We walked almost 9 miles one day, but that’s the best way to find hole-in-the-wall joints like restaurant Cafeteria La Concepcion, which is where I tried the traditional dish of pepián de pollo, a Guatemalan chicken stew.
Depending on the timing of your trip, you could also experience a local festival. I was delighted to realize that we visited ahead of Semana Santa, or Holy Week, with Guatemala considered a deeply Christian country. Street vendors sell cheap delicacies, such as empanadas de leche, or sweet cream empanadas. Antigua residents wake up every Sunday during Lent and create alfombras — intricately designed “carpets” made of flower petals and sawdust dyed in every color — on the streets before the evening’s religious procession. Then, just hours later, the temporary creations are stepped on and swept up.
From Antigua, you can admire the surrounding peaks of towering volcanoes, and tour operators like OX Expeditions take hikers on excursions to Pacaya, Acatenango and Agua volcanoes. We signed up for an easy sunset hike up to Pacaya and its lava fields. The other two are known as longer, more intense endeavors. I would strongly advise any hiking hopefuls to cough up the money and join a group because robberies of solo tourists are common along the trails.
Lake Atitlán
My first work day was spent reporting in Jocotenango, a town on the outskirts of Antigua, with the team at the nonprofit Education for the Children Foundation. They run the School of Hope, a free private school for disadvantaged students. I chatted with pupils and teachers during the school day. Then, U.S. executive director Sara Miller drove me around town and up to La Vista Hermosa, a shantytown of homes built illegally on the hillside where about 150 of the school’s families reside.
As a journalist, I’m grateful to have spent those hours getting the perspective that tourists often don’t see, but, for that reason, I won’t highlight Jocotenango as a place that visitors need on their itineraries. Then, we hopped in a shared shuttle — a small van that fits 10 passengers — for the three-hour ride to Lake Atitlán. If you get car sick, then it is absolutely necessary to bring non-drowsy motion sickness medicine to survive the winding roads.
Lake Atitlán is often referred to as “the Lake Como of Latin America,” referencing the Italian lake in the Alps’ foothills. It’s also held sacred by the nation’s Mayan population — Guatemala’s largest Indigenous group. Outside of Guatemala City, Native people in their traditional garb are a common sight. A Mayan woman typically wears a corte (skirt), huipil (blouse) and faja (belt), and you come across shops selling the clothing in different colors and patterns.

Upon arriving at the lake, you’re typically dropped off in Panajachel — one of almost a dozen towns and villages sitting on the water’s edge. There, I spent my final day of reporting at the headquarters of nonprofit Friendship Bridge, which works with Indigenous women entrepreneurs to provide loans, business training and more.
Nicknamed Pana, the town is accessible by car, but several of the most popular destinations can only be reached by boat. Before departing Pana for other lakeside locations, stock up on sunscreen, beer or any other desirable products because the small stores in the remote villages offer limited stock.
Public and private lanchas, or boats, float at the main dock to ferry locals and tourists across the lake. Beeline for the cheap public option, which costs 10 to 25 quetzales, or you could be swindled by a private captain into paying hundreds of quetzales for your own boat. It’s a longer wait as the water taxi loads up on passengers, but it’s worthwhile for your wallet.
The lake is a place to relax, swim and hop from village to village, which is exactly what my partner and I did on our last day of vacation. Boats are ever reliable on the lake, and you can flag one down at the nearest dock. But I wanted to try out a tuk-tuk — a doorless, three-wheeled vehicle, manned by a driver, who can transport you between towns. I highly recommend the very Guatemalan experience.
Our favorite village: San Juan La Laguna, which bursts with art, restaurants and merchants. Our least favorite: San Marcos La Laguna — a hippie haven, known for its yoga retreats and meditation centers. However, it felt very gentrified to me.
We didn’t get the chance to visit Santa Catarina Palopó, where the houses are painted in eye-popping colors. Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve has a prime spot for cliff jumping into the lake, which I’d add to my list when we return.
And that’s “when,” not “if,” because I’d happily fly back to Guatemala for a much longer trip in the future. Not only did I feel welcome and safe during my travels, but I also experienced an adventure that I won’t soon forget.
IF YOU GO
Where to eat:
Los Tres Tiempos, 6ta. Avenida “A” 10-13 Zona 01, Azotea Del Edificio Centro Vivo, Cuidad de Guatemala: A chic rooftop restaurant, this is the ideal spot to watch the sun set in Guatemala City’s historical district. Enjoy 360-degree views of the Central American metropolis on the outdoor patio.
Cafeteria La Concepcion, H75F+5C4, Antigua: This unpretentious, hole-in-the-wall restaurant offers a limited menu for low prices, with top-tier Guatemalan food like pepián de pollo.
Restaurante 7 Caldos, 3a Calle Oriente 24, Antigua: Enter through the cobblestone street into an open-air restaurant where you can watch as your tortillas are made fresh. The expansive menu, which includes cocktails, is sure to satisfy most cravings.
Café 22, 6a Calle Poniente 8, Antigua: This small café feels like your own private courtyard. Stop by for a cup of Guatemalan espresso and lunch.
Casa Troccoli, H758+773, 5a Avenida Norte, Antigua: With its romantic architecture and expansive garden, date night should go smoothly at Casa Troccoli. Its red sangria is a great way to cool off, so check it out for a quick drink or a meal.
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Denver, CO
Denver’s historic neon signs are in danger. And these are the people trying to save them.
When Matuszewicz looks at the historic sign in Aurora, he sees a soft blue glow that spells out “Riviera” in a flowing script with the word “Motel” in blue block letters below. An orange triangle resembling an airplane wing juts upward, punctuating “Riviera” and offering space-age vibes to those who drive by. The sign, he said, is unique because of the man who designed it, its construction from larger glass tubes that create a bigger glow, and the history it — and the Riviera — represent in metro Denver.
It’s hard for Matuszewicz, an old neon tube bender with a newly minted master’s degree in historic preservation, to pick a favorite. But the Riviera just might be it.
When the preservationist describes his love of neon signs, he speaks of the cosmos. Neon, he said, provides warmth to the people who observe it.
“When we hold a neon tube in our hands or see a neon sign, we are seeing our cosmic selves illuminated,” Matuszewicz said. “Nothing in the world does that except for neon signs. And that’s why we need to save them.”
Neon signs are in critical danger in Denver and other parts of Colorado because of low-cost alternatives in LED lights, restrictive building codes and a lack of awareness of their history in the Centennial State. But Matuszewicz and a handful of other neon enthusiasts are on a mission to save as many old signs as they can. And they are preaching the gospel of neon to all who will listen.
Colfax Avenue is the best example of the disappearance of funky neon signs that once advertised motels and restaurants with glowing cacti, blinking Native Americans and other illuminated Western iconography. But the avenue lost its neon luster as times changed. And a piece of history went missing when neon burned out and was abandoned, said Chris Geddes, a lecturer in the University of Colorado Denver’s historic preservation graduate program and a historic preservation specialist in Aurora.
“When you would drive down Colfax in the 1950s and 1960s, it was a neon alley,” Geddes said. “There’s so little of it left. The architecture of that time was fun and funky. It speaks to a different time.”
The Riviera Motel, including its neon sign, was designed by Richard Crowther, who worked as a neon light designer before moving to Denver to start his architecture career. Crowther is best known locally for designing the neon-lit ticket booths and signs for the Cyclone, Wild Chipmunk and other rides at Lakeside Amusement Park.
But there’s so much more to Denver’s neon history than the motels and restaurants that used to line Colfax, once dubbed the country’s “wickedest street.”
And Matuszewicz is leading the charge with the help of a small but dedicated group of neon enthusiasts.

Old and new neon
British chemists discovered neon gas in 1898 and, by 1910, a French engineer began producing and selling neon tubes for advertising signs. The first neon signs were introduced in the United States in the 1920s, and they quickly became a popular way to get the public’s attention. But the shine faded in the 1960s as cheaper alternatives emerged.
Over the years, neon’s popularity has ebbed and flowed with changes in taste and pop culture.
In Denver, a few old signs remain visible, including Jonas Bros Furs on Broadway, Davie’s Chuck Wagon Diner on West Colfax, Bonnie Brae Ice Cream on University Boulevard and the Branding Iron Motel on East Colfax.
But new signs are being created.
At Morry’s Neon Signs, Glen and Tina Weseloh create new neon signs every week for locations in Denver and surrounding areas. On Dec. 17, the Morry’s crew installed a 7-foot-tall skeleton drinking margaritas in a restaurant on downtown’s 16th Street.
Their sign shop opened in 1985 when Glen Weseloh’s father, Morry Weseloh, aged out of his tube-bending job with the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers and started his own company. Morry Weseloh taught his son how to create neon signs, and the work continued after he died in 2003 at the age of 85.
“I had no idea I would continue after he was gone, but it got into our blood,” Glen Weseloh said.

Inside their shop in Denver’s Athmar Park neighborhood, Glen and the other craftsmen work with graphic artists to sketch out designs. Once a design is agreed upon, they heat glass tubes to bend them into the shapes that will make the sign. The colors are made with neon gas, which glows when electricity runs through it. Tube benders also use stained glass, phosphorus and mercury to create other colors.
The Morry’s crew is often called to restore old, fading signs, including the marquees of the Oriental and Federal theaters, the Olinger sign in the Highland neighborhood, the Ironworks sign on Larimer Street and the glowing covered wagon sign outside the Frontier Drive-Inn in Center, Colorado.
The Weseloh family can also claim credit for Matuszewicz’s preservation work.

On again, off again
In 1987, Matuszewicz decided to go to neon school in Minneapolis after his wife, Emily Matuszewicz, mentioned that she had met a woman whose son was doing it. On a whim, he decided that was what he wanted to do, too.
“I didn’t have a favorite neon sign when I was a kid,” he said. “I knew nothing about it.”
So the Matuszewiczes left Denver so he could attend the Minneapolis School of Neon.
After working jobs in Minneapolis and Albuquerque, Matuszewicz made it back to Denver, and, in 1993, went to work at Morry’s Neon Signs. He stayed until 2020, when he decided the manual labor had taken its toll.
“No matter how long you do it, you get burned. You get cut,” he said. “It’s just hard to do it for a long time.”
So Matuszewicz traded a neon warehouse for a classroom and spent the next 15 years teaching first through eighth grades at the Denver Waldorf School.
Matuszewicz went back to college and earned bachelor’s degrees in chemistry and history at Metropolitan State University of Denver in 2017 — he had started in 1983 and refers to his college career as the “35-year plan.” He studied fermented beverage residues in archaeological pottery shards as an undergraduate project. So he thought the kombucha industry would be an interesting next-career step.
He got interviews. But he wasn’t hired.
“Maybe I’m making it up, but it seemed to me that as soon as I showed up, it was shocking that a 56-year-old man showed up,” Matuszewicz said. “You could see it in their face, ‘Like what?’ I don’t know it as a fact to be ageism, but it sure felt like it.”
Frustrated over a lack of opportunity, Matuszewicz was at a loss over his third act.

But his old friends in neon came calling. The Weselohs invited him to come back to the shop to help restore older neon signs.
His first project was the Independent Order of Odd Fellows sign on South Broadway.
“It’s a lovely, lovely sign,” he said. “We just started doing more and more and more of them.”
Along the way, Matuszewicz met Corky Scholl, a 9News photojournalist who documented neon signs in his spare time, and J.J. Bebout, who owns coffee businesses in Denver and Westminster, and who makes neon signs as a side gig.
Together, the three set about trying to save more neon.
“What’s up needs to stay up and what’s up and not functioning needs to be revived,” Bebout said.
Scholl was a walking catalogue who brought his journalistic objectiveness to preservation, Matuszewicz said. Scholl created and maintained the Save the Signs Facebook page, posting pictures and writing short histories of neon signs in Colorado.
“He let the history speak for itself,” Bebout said.
Scholl died unexpectedly in August, and it has been a blow to neon preservation in Denver, both men said.
“He was an encyclopedia of signs,” Matuszewicz said.
Bebout got into neon after looking for an art medium that also incorporated his knack for building things. He learned the craft in Cincinnati and then returned to Colorado.
Neon opportunities in Denver are rare, he said. Morry’s, along with Yesco, are the only two companies making neon in town.
“It’s a really small community here,” Bebout said. “The pool of folks who can teach is pretty small, and they just don’t because they’re all really old, and I say ‘old’ relative to the end of the lifespan of one’s career. They’re all at the end of it.”
Matuszewicz has been instrumental in helping Bebout perfect his skills, which he uses in his Westminster shop.
When Matuszewicz rekindled his interest in neon, he and his neon buddies started knocking on doors around the Front Range, asking property owners with dilapidated signs if they could help restore them.
One project was the Rossonian Hotel in the Five Points neighborhood. Matuszewicz brainstormed the idea to invite neon artists from across the country for a one-day “bendapalooza” to restore the hotel’s sign.
“It’s just sitting there rotting and we can’t just let it rot,” Matuszewicz said. “I went on this whole crusade to save it.”
But his pitch fell through.
“It was super discouraging to me. People wouldn’t listen to me,” he said. “I’m just a guy in a neon shop.”
Meanwhile, Matuszewicz had enrolled in CU Denver’s Change Makers program, in which participants explore new career options later in life. At first, he said he tossed out the idea of becoming a world-renowned busker of murder ballads. His classmates scoffed.
Then, once again, his background in neon shone. Everyone loved the idea of a historic preservationist who specialized in neon.
“The stars aligned,” he said.
Now that Matuszewicz has his master’s degree in historic preservation from CU Denver, his crusade is getting more attention. He’s become an in-demand speaker at historic preservation conferences around the United States.
“I’m like, ‘Oh my God, 300 people get to hear about neon,’” he said. “I’m so excited.”
Still, Matuszewicz’s focus is on Denver.

Neon versus LED
The Weselohs and their neon business are in a constant battle with LED.
The newer technology is pitched as more cost-efficient because it needs less electricity and, therefore, is less detrimental to the environment.
Two years ago, the iconic Benjamin Moore Paints sign at 2500 Walnut St. in Denver was replaced with LED by the building’s owners. At the time, Denver’s Landmark Preservation office told the Denver Gazette that the old neon was too deteriorated to restore.
The neon enthusiasts despise the new sign, especially since the old neon letters were destroyed and recycled.
Bebout describes the new Benjamin Moore sign as “flat and lifeless.”
“Benjamin Moore is a clean-looking sign but it lacks the character of neon,” Bebout said.
LED, which stands for light-emitting diode, became more common in the early 2010s as people looked for more efficient light bulbs. LED bulbs’ reputation as being cheaper to burn started pushing neon out of favor just as it was experiencing a sort of revival.

But neon fans argue that those who believe LED is less expensive are misinformed.
Neon, they say, lasts longer. An old neon sign can go for 100 years or longer with the right maintenance. And all the materials used to make it can be recycled, Matuszewicz said. Its elements are more readily available on the planet.
“It’s not a bunch of plastic and precious earth metals,” Bebout said. But he admitted one disadvantage for neon, “Now one thing is for sure, they do take more power. That’s one thing that can be argued.”
Neon also can’t be manufactured by a machine and requires skilled craftsmen to be created, Tina Weseloh said. LED, on the other hand, fades over time, and the plastic signs become more junk in a landfill because they cannot be repaired, they said.
City code departments also create barriers for neon signs, the Weselohs said.
Some towns outlawed flashing signs years ago in an attempt to modernize their codes and their cities’ appearances. Neon signaled “degenerate neighborhood,” Bebout said.
Centennial and Westminster are among the cities in Colorado that don’t allow blinking neon lights outside of businesses, Glen Weseloh said.
“That’s crazy! Why?” he said. “I don’t get it.”
In Aurora, Bebout restored the old Branding Iron Motel’s neon sign on East Colfax. That project almost didn’t happen because the city made the hotel owner pay a large egress fee because the sign stretched over the sidewalk, he said.
“You want to talk about discouraging preservation,” he said. “Most people are going to tear it up and put up a flat, lifeless LED sign.”
So the neon preservation crowd has its work cut out.

‘We need more Todds’
Matuszewicz’s next big neon preservation project is to get an art piece at 1350 Lawrence St. listed on the Colorado State Register of Historic Properties. It will be considered by the state’s Historic Preservation Review Board in January.
The Incomplete Square by neon artist Stephen Antonakas was installed on the side of the 11-story apartment building in 1982 and showcases 8-foot lengths of red neon mounted on the building’s exterior.
If approved, the piece will become the first time in Colorado that neon attached to a building will be designated historic when the building itself is not, Matuszewicz said.
Matuszewicz also received a prestigious Harrison Goodall Preservation Fellowship with the National Park Service and Preservation Maryland, and is creating an artificial intelligence model that can identify historical features on buildings. That program will help Historic Denver finish a decades-long project to document all 160,000 buildings in the city.
If the AI model is successful, Matuszewicz hopes to turn its capabilities to neon to create a registry of authentic neon in the state.
The Weselohs are glad Matuszewicz returned to the neon world to help preserve its presence in Colorado.
“We need more Todds to speak for the neon world,” Tina Weseloh said. “We’re all little mom-and-pop shops.”
As for Matuszewicz, he finally settled on a calling.
“Most people know where they work, when they work and how they work. But they don’t know the why of the work,” he said. “It is spiritual for us as human beings when we see neon. We are seeing cloud nebula when we see neon. We really are seeing the heavens.”
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Denver, CO
Broncos designate LB Drew Sanders for return from injured reserve
Denver, CO
Broncos offensive line is the engine that drives offense
I’ve been covering the Denver Broncos for his entire career and I remember writing up some pretty harsh criticism of his play early on — especially in regards to holding penalties. I recall at one point he was committing holding penalties at a record-breaking rate. He was so far above the rest of the field that he’d break charts if anyone tried to chart it. The best part of that saga is that he never let the outside noise (from me and many others) get to him. He worked on his craft and he got better. And then got even better to the point where it is pretty clear that he is one of the best left tackles in all of football. He is going to go down as one of the best tackles in franchise history too when its all said and done. It’s a great comeback story.
All that said, he wasn’t the only one of the Broncos players on that offensive line to make an impact with guard Quinn Meinerz also being named a PFF All-Pro player. The whole offensive line has been dominant in nearly every category and is the main engine that has driven the offenses successes this season.
4) Denver Broncos
Team OLi Grade: 83.0
Best-Ranked OL: Garett Bolles, 89.0 (7th overall, 3rd position)
Worst-Ranked OL: Alex Palczewski, 63.5 (159th overall, 61st position)
And one more to complete the picture comes from Sharp Football Analysis who has the Broncos ranked fifth-overall in their NFL Offensive Line Stats:
There is so much evidence that shows the trenches on both side of the ball is what has brought the success of the 2025 Broncos. It’s an area that Sean Payton has said in the past is always an area of focus. He knows you don’t win consistently if your team is being dominated in the trenches.
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