San Francisco, CA
One of California’s most famous chefs is coming home to San Francisco
“Why on earth would you want to open in San Francisco?”
This was my first question to Christopher Kostow, the Napa Valley-based chef, as we sat outside at a cafe table on the corner of Pacific and Montgomery in Jackson Square. Along with his wife and business partner, Martina, Kostow announced plans last week to open a third location of Loveski, the couple’s modern Jewish deli. By the beginning of March, they will take over the Postscript space. (In good news, the popular, bougie cafe (opens in new tab), which has been roasting coffee there since 2023, will continue to provide beans to Loveski and a small list of retail partners.)
My question was obviously loaded: San Francisco is expensive, full of red tape, and — for restaurateurs — famously unforgiving. It’s the kind of place chefs expand to once they’ve earned their stripes, luxuriating in the more forgiving burbs, at properties that have amenities like parking lots. What is not as common is the country-to-city trajectory. But in this and other ways, Kostow is different.
“Well, to start, in 2002, when I was 25, I had the good fortune of working around the corner from here as a line cook. Remember Elisabeth Daniel?” he asked. The restaurant, located where Ver Jus is now, was owned by the divisive chef Daniel Patterson, who went on to earn two Michelin stars at Coi.
“It was a fine dining restaurant with beautiful food. But I was a whipping boy,” Kostow laughed, recalling that cooks weren’t allowed to smoke cigarettes or drink coffee because it would ruin their palette. “You had to run down the alley and hide behind garbage cans to smoke or take a shot of espresso. It was crazy. I didn’t enjoy that work experience, but I loved this gorgeous neighborhood.”
Kostow’s rise to fame began in earnest after he left Elisabeth Daniel — and San Francisco — to take over The Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena in 2008. Meadowood earned a rare three Michelin stars before being destroyed in 2020’s Glass fire.
In 2022, the Kostows opened Loveski in an 800-square-foot space in Napa’s Oxbow Public Market. A year later, they opened a second location in the Marin Country Mart in Larkspur.
As the couple inched closer to San Francisco, they began circling the idea of returning to the city proper. Their daughters are older now, allowing the couple to travel from their St. Helena home more easily. “Another chapter of life unfolding, and I think it’s compelled us to start pursuing projects outside of Napa Valley,” he said.
And then, a few months ago, the Postscript deal dropped into their laps.
The timing and Jackson Square location were pure kismet. “With Jony Ive right here, it’s at the intersection of design, tech, and capital, and VC stuff,” Kostow says. “I don’t think we could have found a more dynamic place.”
Jackson Square is indeed enjoying a culinary renaissance. Michael and Lindsay Tusk, the owners of Quince, Cotogna, and Ver Jus, arguably made it what it is. But in the past few years, they’ve been joined by chef Brad Kilgore’s Ama, Cafe Sebastian, and MadLab in the Transamerica Pyramid. Peter Hemsley, who earned a star at his seafood-centric fine-dining restaurant Aphotic, is planning an opening on Jackson Street, in the space that used to house Kells Irish Restaurant and Pub.
Loveski Deli, which is in tribute to Kostow’s pre-Ellis Island family name, might not be catering to his younger self — the minimum-wage line cooks of the neighborhood. It will serve the hood’s well-heeled denizens fare the website calls “Jew-ish.”
Yes, there will be the signature sourdough bagels made with honey in the boil and matzo ball soup. But there will also be croissants, as well as smoothies, juices, and salmon bowls — things that famed Jewish delis like Canter’s in L.A. wouldn’t be caught dead serving. Kostow is also prepping items to sell in the larder, including miso made from day-old bagels, goji rice, water and salt; tamari made from that miso; and chile crisp made with everything-bagel seasoning.
The mini bagel-and-lox empire has kept Kostow busy, but, with Meadowood’s reopening date undetermined, it hasn’t quite filled the fine-dining hole in his heart. “I do want to work in that kind of focused environment again,” he says. “I was almost embarrassed by the fanciness of it, but it was built to create beauty every day — that was pretty cool. But the expectations out of the gate are going to be three stars, or it’s a failure. That’s going to be super challenging — but I enjoy that kind of challenge.” (At this, Martina, the CEO of their empire, piped up: “Yeah, that’s when I go on hiatus.”)
Loveski, meanwhile, is a personal, focused concept in its own way. Kostow’s not looking to make the deli into a “museum piece — a faux shtetl,” he said. He wants to keep it real. “We’re trying to do something that we feel enlarges the concept. We’re not trying to pin our hopes and dreams on a massive pastrami sandwich.”
A California sea lion pup found last week on a San Francisco street corner is malnourished but “active and quite feisty,” The Marine Mammal Center said Monday.
The sea lion, believed to be about 10 months old, had apparently wandered into city’s Outer Sunset neighborhood and was discovered early Thursday morning, authorities said.
The pup was spotted near 48th and Irving Streets, one block from Ocean Beach and Sunset Dunes park. A trained responder from the Marine Mammal Center was joined by San Francisco park rangers and police officers to safely corral the pup, now named ‘Irving’, into a carrier crate.
Dubbed ‘Irving’ by his rescuers, Irving weighed in at 40 pounds and is considered malnourished, the Marine Mammal Center said.
“The sea lion is active and quite feisty which is a positive initial sign in terms of general behavior,” the center said in a news release on Monday.
During an exam by veterinarians, a series of blood samples were also taken to determine whether there’s any underlying ailment.
Irving is being tube fed a fish smoothie blend two times per day to boost hydration and weight; offers of whole herring will also begin shortly.
The quick actions by police, recreation and parks staff and Ocean Avenue Animal Hospital gave the young sea lion a second chance at life, said Lauren Campbell, animal husbandry manager at The Marine Mammal Center.
“As a roughly 10-month-old pup in his first year of learning how to forage on his own, this animal has a long road to recovery due to his severe malnutrition,” Campbell said. “We are hopeful that in the coming weeks with continued specialized care that this pup starts to make positive strides toward recovery and release.”
Irving will be held in the Center’s Intensive Quarantine Unit until clearing medical protocols, before likely being transferred this week to a traditional rehabilitation pool pen. A long-term prognosis and potential release timeline are not currently known.
After Sunday’s 3-0 loss to the Washington Nationals, the San Francisco Giants headed back to the West Coast. They’re going back to the Bay Area, too.
The Giants have a date with the Los Angeles Dodgers for a three-game series at Oracle Park starting Tuesday night.
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So, San Francisco probably wanted to get out of Washington, D.C., with a win. That didn’t happen at Nationals Park on Sunday afternoon.
Nationals reliever Andrew Alvarez, the third pitcher used by the team on Sunday, picked up the victory with 4 1/3 innings of work. Giants starter Robbie Ray absorbed the loss, falling to 2-3 this season.
Ray worked six innings, giving up seven hits, three runs (all earned), walking one, and striking out seven Nationals. If the Giants’ offense had found a way to tack on some runs, then Ray’s outing wouldn’t have looked so bad.
The Giants’ bats, though, had eight hits. The big number for Giants manager Tony Vitello to look at in the box score after this one was, well, pretty big. San Francisco left 10 runners on base on Sunday, going 0-for-11 with runners in scoring position. This indicates that San Francisco had plenty of opportunities to score some runs.
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They just didn’t get the job done.
Let’s go to the bottom of the fifth with the Giants and Nationals in a scoreless tie. With nobody out, the Nationals’ Keibert Ruiz connected for his third double this season. Nasim Nuñez scored to put Washington up 1-0.
With one out, Curtis Mead sent a Ray pitch over the left-field wall, a two-run blast that gave the Nationals a 3-0 lead.
San Francisco had a scoring threat in the top of the eighth inning. With runners at first and second base and nobody out, Casey Schmitt grounded into a double play. Matt Chapman, who was on second base, went to third. But the Giants were unable to bring him home.
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Rafael Devers and Drew Gilbert went 2-for-4 at the plate for the Giants, producing half of the Giants’ hits.
The Giants fall to 9-13 this season, sitting in fourth place in the National League West Division. The Nationals’ record goes to 10-12, good enough for third place in the National League East Division.
All eyes now turn toward Oracle on Tuesday night. It’ll be a chance for two longtime rivals to renew their rivalry.
Baseball fans know that the Giants-Dodgers matchups usually are must-see TV.
That’s probably going to be the case once again as Giants fans watch their team battle the Dodgers. Those lucky to have tickets to the three-game series at Oracle Park will show up in Giants colors, hoping to see Los Angeles head back to Southern California with either a series loss or a Giants’ sweep.
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Buckle up, Giants fans. It’s about to get rowdy at Oracle Park.
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