Montana

The indomitable Butte, Montana – High Country News

Published

8 months ago

March 19, 2025

The indomitable Butte, Montana – High Country News

In 2006, I left Alaska with a plan to become a famous singer-songwriter. But before I got to Memphis, I stopped to visit Butte, Montana, where my friend Wendy had bought a $10,000 house and wanted help fixing it up. We weren’t carpenters, but we could demo with the best of them. It was summer, and we’d work all day in dust masks, then smoke joints and drink PBR on her back porch into the evening, looking out at the twisting streets and glittering incandescent lights of Uptown, the city’s historic district. We slept in sleeping bags and peed in a 5 gallon bucket, made coffee on a Coleman stove and wandered over to the Silver Dollar Saloon for open mic night. I fell in love with Butte. It was as if I’d been away for years and finally returned home. I don’t even feel this way about my own hometown. Butte was a beacon in the dark, a warm handshake with cold fingertips.

When winter came, I headed south: Memphis, Nashville, and then Austin, Texas, where I spent 13 years making music. But almost every summer, I came back to Butte.

By 2012, I was growing weary of Austin. Wealth had found a foothold on the central Texas limestone, so I started looking for something to buy in Butte — my other home. One balmy spring day, a real estate agent took me to view a house up in Walkerville, a tiny town that sits above Uptown. Instead, a nearby place — a small green miner’s cottage with an overgrown yard — caught my eye, shining like a penny in the sun, the headframe of the Lexington Mine looming in front of it. This was the house I wanted. But it wasn’t for sale.

When I got back to Austin, I wrote a short letter explaining my pull toward the property. and sent it to the house’s owner, Edwin C. Dobb, a continuing lecturer at UC Berkeley.

Butte was a beacon in the dark, a warm handshake with cold fingertips.

When Ed — as he asked me to call him — wrote back, he explained that he grew up in Butte and lived in that home for years before he took a job in California. He left the cottage locked up, bleaching in the sun, explaining that it held too much sentimental value for him to sell. But he was kind and curious about me.

We wrote letters and spoke on the phone for six years. He became a mentor to me as I struggled with melding art and commerce. I told him I wanted to turn his old house into a writers-in-residence space. We became friends, meeting when I was playing a bar in his California town. Ed was short with white hair, and charming; he wheezed when he walked and drank two beers at lunch.

One afternoon, I was sitting in my Austin backyard when Ed called and said he was ready to sell. I was a waitress and a musician, and no bank wanted to loan me money. But Ed offered to finance the house for four years. And so, in the smoky summer of August 2015, we walked into Summit Title in Butte and signed the papers. The next day, he left in a U-Haul, and I moved into the little green house.

Hays Pickett works on repairs on her newly purchased home. Credit: Bess Bird

The pipes were busted, the roof leaked. The ghost of Ed was around every corner. My college friend Matt fixed all of the plumbing. Wendy’s husband, David, removed the knob-and-tube wiring so the place wouldn’t burn down. Eventually, I had heat, running water, fresh paint and a roof that I hoped would last. I lived among the things Ed couldn’t fit in the U-Haul: worn-out steak knives, pro-union posters, a kitchen table with a broken leg where he told me he liked to write.

In all my years of coming to Butte in the summer, I saw only a partial view of life there. I marveled at the crystal-clear air, the big sun in the sharp blue sky over the yellow landscape. Butte is located in a high desert that was scraped of trees at the turn of the century, and there are signs of underground mining everywhere: huge hoist houses, tall black headframes where ravens roost amid the giant wheels of old pulley systems that haven’t moved in 80 years.

In the deathly quiet after a fresh snow, I would walk to the old Alice Mine, behind the brownfields, and down to the Mountain Con, another long-shuttered copper mine. Some of my neighbors welcomed me, others did not. Everyone was either born in Butte or Walkerville. Many were elderly. People were curious about the woman who lived in Ed’s old house and trimmed the ancient lilac bushes. It took years to gain their trust, and who’s to say that’s wrong? Now that I’ve been here awhile, I understand why. I cleaned up the yard, took out the trash, baked apple pies and sent slices home to my neighbors.

Meth was a painful reality in Butte then. In one of the houses down below me, a man who stole cars was openly chopping them up in the alley. I called the cops at one point, but they never bothered to drive up the hill. Poverty remains a fact of life. Houses stay under construction for 20 years. But kids still play like kids, riding barefoot on a 50cc dirt bike to the Excelsior Town Pump to get chips and a pop. I watched a couple of grade schoolers eat a pizza at the picnic table outside Pissers Palace, the only bar in Walkerville.

One summer night in 2019, I was eating a cheeseburger in a bar when I found out Ed had died. I left a $20 next to my half-eaten plate, went to my van and cried. He had a stroke, then a heart attack. I was so close to opening the doors of the writer’s residency, and he would never get to see it.

Edwin C. Dobb, a continuing lecturer at UC Berkeley. Credit: Courtesy photo

That October, I played music at his memorial service at the Knights of Columbus Hall in Butte. I choked up mid-song as I played “Caledonia,” by Dougie McClean. Afterward, I hugged Ed’s sister, grabbed my guitar, went home to his cottage and stayed there for days, mourning. In January 2020, I hosted my first writer in residence. I named the program “Dear Butte.” Since then, I’ve hosted 60 other writers. I run the space in honor of Ed: a true Butte Boy-o, as he would call himself. Generous, thoughtful, genuine.

I have learned that there is a shelf life for a lot of transplants. I call it Butte Fatigue. The lack of services, restaurants, the omnipresent pollution — people in Butte are both proud to thrive here despite the lack of amenities, and yet they also desire some of those amenities. I never got tired, and Butte only pulled me in deeper. I have become protective of the place.

I run the space in honor of Ed: a true Butte Boy-o, as he would call himself. Generous, thoughtful, genuine.

Some folks in Butte will tell you that when the Anaconda Company shut down the mine pumps in the 1980s, all the good things and people left. Jobs dried up. What was left behind were mining dredges and the people who couldn’t afford to leave. The population grew old, houses sat vacant. Empty houses were stripped of copper wire, then sold to Pacific Steel for enough money to buy meth.

People in Butte can be deeply suspicious; they are used to a commerce of take and no give. The company extracted all it could from this place and then left a mess behind. So much has been taken from Butte, and everyone who comes here and judges the place is also taking from us in small ways.

I take a while to get to know newcomers, too, now. To be “Butte Tough,” as the saying goes, means not just being hardy and at the ready, but guarding our own. We protect our hearts like people who are used to having their hearts continually broken.

The story that gets missed about Butte amid the tall tales of mining history and a drive-by view of the scenery is the story about the people who chose to stay here. Our elders upheld a credo: that generosity is bigger than money. It’s written into Butte’s DNA. No community member is left behind. What do you need? Your dog walked? A new kidney? No problem.

Hays Pickett’s kitchen in her home, where she hosts the “Dear Butte” writer’s residency. Credit: Bess Bird

One day, I was pulling stubborn knapweed from my flower bed when my neighbor, Toad, showed up with a bag of cement and a trowel. He insisted on fixing the cracked sidewalk he’d noticed at the entrance of my house. I said OK and stood at the ready with a hose. Fat raindrops fell as we worked, pelting our bare necks. Toad worked through lightning and thunder. Later, while I was in Texas one winter, he mudded and taped my entire house; he said he needed to get out of his wife’s hair. I could tell you so many of these stories. But folks in Butte shy away from compliments; they’d much prefer you to just buy them a round, or two.

When you are driving east or west on I-90 and see the terraced open-pit mine and the brick buildings of uptown, you might think, “My God, what is this place?” If you drive up Harrison Avenue or Montana Street, the untrained eye sees brokenness and bygone grandeur. That’s the drive-by view a countless string of writers has come here to talk about. But when you live here long enough, you stay, because what Butte sees is its people.

But when you live here long enough, you stay, because what Butte sees is its people.

If there is a lesson America needs to learn, it can be learned here. Butte’s story, to Butte people, is not the failed projects of capitalists or the honeycomb of abandoned tunnels underneath us. Small wins — a new restaurant opening or a vacant house being repaired — can bolster us for years to come. Setbacks are just another thing to climb around together. When you’ve been losing for so long, you only have one another. Butte learned that lesson when the Anaconda Company abandoned this place like a broken toy. The community — ready to help itself — is more powerful than anything it ever built. And we will be here for centuries to come, knapweed growing from an old foundation.

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Montana

Diverse coalition challenges Montana’s exempt wells

Published

18 hours ago

November 13, 2025

Press Room

Diverse coalition challenges Montana’s exempt wells

Laura Lundquist

(Missoula Current) As Montana’s streams continue to dwindle in the continuing drought, a diverse group of organizations and individuals are once again challenging Montana’s rule on exempt wells, saying the state has repeatedly ignored court rulings.

On Wednesday, six Montana organizations and three individuals filed a complaint in Lewis and Clark County district court alleging that the Montana Department of Natural Resources Conservation has ignored court rulings and the rights of senior water-right owners by continuing to allow subdivision developers to exploit Montana’s exempt well law.

The plaintiffs include the Clark Fork Coalition, Montana League of Cities and Towns, Montana Farm Bureau Federation, Trout Unlimited, Montana Environmental Information Center, Association of Gallatin Agricultural Irrigators and Mark Runkle, a housing developer.

“From rapid growth to ongoing drought, Montana’s water resources and water users are facing unprecedented challenges,” said Andrew Gorder, Clark Fork Coalition legal director. “The cumulative impact of over 100,000 exempt groundwater wells can no longer be ignored. We’re asking the court to conserve our limited water resources and ensure that the constitutional protections afforded to senior water rights, including instream flow rights, are preserved.”

Over the years, especially since 2006, the Legislature has considered more than a dozen bills, most with the intent of enabling the proliferation of small wells – those that pump less than 35 gallons per minute – that the state has exempted from needing a water right or permit. The few bills proposed to keep exempt wells in check have usually failed in the Legislature while the DNRC has been reluctant to insist on regulation. So the incorporation of exempt wells in new subdivisions has exploded at a time when the state, particularly western Montana, is struggling with dwindling water supplies.

According to the complaint, census data show Montana’s population increased by almost 203,000 residents between 2000 and 2021. Over 87% of that growth occurred in six counties—Gallatin, Yellowstone, Flathead, Missoula, Lewis and Clark, and Ravalli – and those are also the counties where hundreds of new wells are pulling huge amounts of water out of their respective aquifers.

The complaint says Ravalli County is the most extreme example of population influx and exempt well development. Census data show 10,000 people moved to Ravalli County between 2000 and 2021, and 84% of the 6,000 new homes were built outside of incorporated areas. As a result, there are now more than 24,000 wells in the county and only 288 are for municipal or public water supply systems. So it’s not surprising that household wells, such as those south of Lolo, were running dry this summer in the Bitterroot Valley.

So many unregulated, unmetered wells together are using more water than agricultural producers who are required to have water rights before they can use water for irrigation or stockwater. If such water rights holders don’t receive their full amount of water, they are allowed to ask other users junior to them to stop using water. But that system doesn’t work when they try to make a call on a subdivision full of exempt wells. So, as courts have found, exempt wells violate Montana’s first-in-time, first-in-right system of water rights.

Over the decades, the number of water rights granted in each river basin account for more water than the basin holds, so starting in the 1990s, the state closed several basins to new water rights, including the Upper Clark Fork, Blackfoot and Bitterroot river basins. Eventually, groundwater rights were limited too when the courts ruled groundwater and surface water were linked. But that hasn’t stopped developers from drilling more household wells.

Back in the 1960s and ‘70s when Montana had only a half-million residents, exempt wells weren’t as much of a problem. But as the population surged and subdivisions multiplied in the 1980s, some Montanans could see danger, and a 1982 state conference recognized the threat to water supplies posed by an increasing number of unregulated wells.

In 1987, the DNRC developed a rule prohibiting the combined appropriation or use of exempt wells from a single aquifer without a water right, which should have stopped subdivisions from installing multiple exempt wells. But real estate and contracting lobbies were gaining strength. In 1993, the DNRC changed the definition of “combined appropriation” to require that the wells be physically joined before being required to get a water right, giving developers an out to use individual household wells.

A 2008 DNRC report, written for the newly created Legislative Water Policy Interim Committee, found that “exempt wells had become a major source of unregulated groundwater use in closed basins, areas with high population growth and increasing subdivision development.” The DNRC acknowledged that water rights owners could have their water use curtailed while subdivision exempt-well use continues unabated.

The Water Policy Interim Committee would conduct two additional studies of exempt wells in 2012 and 2018, which would find exempt wells problematic for water supplies and water law, but prompted no action.

Finally in 2009, a group of water rights holders, including the Clark Fork Coalition and rancher Katrin Chandler, petitioned the DNRC to rewrite the 1993 rule to protect senior water rights. When the DNRC refused, they went to court. In October 2014, a district judge ruled in their favor, saying the 1993 exempt well rule violated Montana’s Water Use Act. The state appealed, and meanwhile, the Legislature tried to pass laws to bolster the 1993 rule even though many legislators say they’re pro-agriculture.

In September 2016, the Montana Supreme Court upheld the district court finding that the 1993 rule on combined appropriation was inconsistent with the Water Use Act. DNRC went back to its 1987 definition of combined appropriation, and that should have put an end to the use of multiple exempt wells in subdivisions. But it didn’t.

In 2022, Upper Missouri Waterkeeper and others filed a court challenge to stop a 442-acre subdivision with exempt wells in Broadwater County that had gotten DNRC approval because it would be developed in four phases that were considered individually. The district court sided with Upper Missouri Waterkeeper, saying the DNRC’s “interpretation here would allow developers to circumvent exempt well limitations easily and unilaterally by simply slicing any project into phases each small enough to fall under the exempt-well ceiling for the aggregate acre-feet.”

District judge Michael F. McMahon said the DNRC ignored the 2016 Montana Supreme Court ruling and he expected that the department might do the same in future situations.

“The economic impetus to develop land is overwhelming and relentless. If there is going to be any check on uncontrolled development of Montana’s limited water resources, it will have to come from DNRC, which is statutorily charged with fulfilling Montanans’ constitutional right to ‘control, and regulation of water rights,’ a duty DNRC has manifestly avoided or undermined for over a decade to the detriment of our waters, environment, and senior water rights holders whose protection is the ‘core purpose’ of the Water Rights Act,” McMahon wrote.

The 2025 Legislature killed Senate Bill 358, which came out of recommendations from a DNRC working group, which included some of the plaintiffs. SB 358 would have significantly restricted the use of exempt wells in four aquifers where DNRC data and analysis shows that wells are affecting senior water rights owners: the Helena Valley, the Bitterroot Valley, the Missoula Valley, and the Gallatin Valley.

DNRC data show that between 74% and 94% of all groundwater use within these aquifers are from exempt wells, compared to 1% to 5% that are permitted wells, according to the complaint. In the Missoula and Bitterroot Valleys, more than 15,000 exempt wells serve rapidly growing residential areas, making up 74% of all groundwater rights in the Missoula Valley and 89% in the Bitterroot Valley. DNRC has recommended that the Legislature close both the Missoula and Bitterroot aquifers to additional exempt well development.

Because efforts to work with the DNRC and the Legislature have been stymied, the plaintiffs are turning to the courts and asking a judge to find the Exempt Well Law is unconstitutional by violating the property rights of water-right owners and by limiting their right to participate. They also want the DNRC to stop implementing the Exempt Well Law and rewrite it to conform with the water law of prior appropriation.

“Farmers and ranchers have followed the rules and invested generations of work based on secure access to water,” said Scott Kulbeck of the Montana Farm Bureau Federation. “Everyone has to play by the same rules. When some folks skip the permit process and pull from a water source that’s already spoken for, it hurts their neighbors. This case is about protecting the way Montanans have managed water responsibly for generations.”

Contact reporter Laura Lundquist at lundquist@missoulacurrent.com.

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Montana

Road closure continues Thursday in Missoula’s Miller Creek

Published

1 day ago

November 12, 2025

Press Room

Road closure continues Thursday in Missoula’s Miller Creek

MISSOULA, Mont. — A road closure will impact drivers in the Miller Creek neighborhood in Missoula.

Missoula County Public Works crews are working on a storm drainage project that will keep Miller Creek Road closed from Gharrett Street to Stonehaven Avenue.

The road is expected to reopen Thursday at 4 p.m.

Drivers, pedestrians and cyclists can expect to see signs about the detour and closure.

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Montana

Montana Lottery Mega Millions, Lucky For Life results for Nov. 11, 2025

Published

2 days ago

November 12, 2025

Press Room

The Montana Lottery offers multiple draw games for those aiming to win big. Here’s a look at Nov. 11, 2025, results for each game:

Winning Mega Millions numbers from Nov. 11 drawing

10-13-40-42-46, Mega Ball: 01

Check Mega Millions payouts and previous drawings here.

Winning Lucky For Life numbers from Nov. 11 drawing

12-25-30-40-42, Lucky Ball: 15

Check Lucky For Life payouts and previous drawings here.

Winning Big Sky Bonus numbers from Nov. 11 drawing

01-05-18-22, Bonus: 05

Check Big Sky Bonus payouts and previous drawings here.

Feeling lucky? Explore the latest lottery news & results

When are the Montana Lottery drawings held?

Powerball: 8:59 p.m. MT on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday.
Mega Millions: 9 p.m. MT on Tuesday and Friday.
Lucky For Life: 8:38 p.m. MT daily.
Lotto America: 9 p.m. MT on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.
Big Sky Bonus: 7:30 p.m. MT daily.
Powerball Double Play: 8:59 p.m. MT on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday.
Montana Cash: 8 p.m. MT on Wednesday and Saturday.

Missed a draw? Peek at the past week’s winning numbers.

Winning lottery numbers are sponsored by Jackpocket, the official digital lottery courier of the USA TODAY Network.

Where can you buy lottery tickets?

Tickets can be purchased in person at gas stations, convenience stores and grocery stores. Some airport terminals may also sell lottery tickets.

You can also order tickets online through Jackpocket, the official digital lottery courier of the USA TODAY Network, in these U.S. states and territories: Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Idaho, Maine, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Oregon, Puerto Rico, Washington D.C., and West Virginia. The Jackpocket app allows you to pick your lottery game and numbers, place your order, see your ticket and collect your winnings all using your phone or home computer.

Jackpocket is the official digital lottery courier of the USA TODAY Network. Gannett may earn revenue for audience referrals to Jackpocket services. GAMBLING PROBLEM? CALL 1-800-GAMBLER, Call 877-8-HOPENY/text HOPENY (467369) (NY). 18+ (19+ in NE, 21+ in AZ). Physically present where Jackpocket operates. Jackpocket is not affiliated with any State Lottery. Eligibility Restrictions apply. Void where prohibited. Terms: jackpocket.com/tos.

This results page was generated automatically using information from TinBu and a template written and reviewed by a Great Falls Tribune editor. You can send feedback using this form.

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