What’s New

An incoming atmospheric river will bring 25-foot waves to the coastline in central California early next week, as well as heavy rain and strong winds.

Why It Matters

The Pacific Northwest is known for its atmospheric rivers, particularly during the winter months. The storms bring heavy rain and snow, typically to Oregon, Washington and California. Though the moisture-laden storms can help alleviate drought, they also pose life-threatening risks from mudslides and floods.

Back-to-back atmospheric rivers have already hit the West Coast this month, including one that brought heavy rain and strong winds to Washington and Oregon earlier this week.

Another few storms will barrel into the West Coast this weekend, with meteorologists expecting their impact to stretch further south into California. In addition to precipitation, the storm will spur large, dangerous waves that will break along the coast.

What to Know

The high surf advisory will go into effect early Saturday morning. It stretches from Cloverdale to Monterey, according to a map from the National Weather Service (NWS).

Some of the advisories expire on Sunday, though the high surf advisory issued by the Los Angeles NWS office will remain in effect throughout next week.

Large, breaking waves are possible, along with dangerous rip currents. The biggest threat for large waves will be on west and northwest-facing beaches.

The highest forecast waves could hit up to 25 feet tall for Central Coast beaches from Monday into Tuesday. Waves will likely be smaller for the Santa Barbara South Coast beaches, reaching up to 12 feet on Monday and Tuesday. Ventura County beaches could see breaking waves of 8 to 12 feet with local set as high as 17 feet on Monday night into Tuesday.

What People Are Saying

NWS meteorologist Devin Black told Newsweek: “The storm system is generating winds. Pacific systems that come through our area tend to build way back west, and that allows the swells to really build.

“Average waves for Central Coast beaches are around 5 to 8 feet this time of year, meaning the incoming waves will be “pretty significant.”

NWS Los Angeles in a high surf advisory: “There is an increased risk for ocean drowning. Rip currents can pull swimmers and surfers out to sea. Large breaking waves can cause injury, wash people off beaches and rocks, and capsize small boats near shore.”

NWS San Francisco in a hydrologic outlook: “The storm door is wide open with a very active storm track forecast to impact Northern California. Wet and unsettled weather will bring periods of light to moderate rainfall to the region with the biggest impact expected over the North Bay.”

What Happens Next

The storms expected to hit the Golden State this weekend will “prime the soils” for storms to come later next week, potentially leading to dangerous water rises in area creeks and streams, the hydrologic outlook warned. Residents in the impacted area are urged to keep an eye on NWS weather alerts as the storms arrive, given that the storm set to hit Monday is “gearing up to be the strongest and wettest of the series.”