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Wondering where the fish have gone

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Wondering where the fish have gone


KOTZEBUE — It’s raining again, the wind rising and waves sloshing over the grass. I’m yanking at corkline, struggling to stack my salmon nets into old army totes, to protect them from mice and weather for another winter. Commercial fishing in Kotzebue Sound is closed, over before it really started. A complete bust, exponentially worse than any in the past 51 years I’ve participated in this fishery.

Catches were dismal in July and many of us assumed — or tried to believe — that the run was late. Rumors swirled around town: about beluga whales, killer whales, warm water, cold water, and villagers up the Noatak and Kobuk rivers catching runs we’d allegedly missed. I didn’t believe it and kept hoping the dearth of fish was tied to changes some of us have noticed over the decades: how the peak of the run has been arriving later and later in August. Our last best season, two years ago, was slow in July, and in August more salmon flooded in than we’d seen before.

Daily, I texted Karen Gillis, Copper River Seafoods manager, or my deckhand, Catherine Greene, for fish news. None of it was good: catches were minuscule, and effort lagged. A few times a week I tested the waters with a subsistence net–until my dad walked over to Fish & Game and bought a crew license. He wanted to commercial fish. He’s 89, and fished in Kotzebue in 1960 when there was a floating cannery and salmon were 35 cents apiece, and later built a plywood boat and fished with our family from 1974 on.

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He and I headed out the next morning to set off the bar, up near the mouth of the Noatak. It was good to be out there again with him, though strange now, on familiar waters, with an eerie absence of fish. My dad finally saw a hit. We motored over and grabbed the corks, but the seals were faster, swarming in to rip the flapping salmon out of my webbing. We beat them to the next fish, and a few more — just enough to give away, and to keep a bitten one for dinner.

Meanwhile, as the days passed, my daughter’s wedding was looming. I’d happily agreed to provide 17 fresh salmon she requested for the reception. No problem, I’d assured her — except now what normally would be simple was looking tenuous at best.

[The old gray kayak — the value of things made by hand.]

Copper started talking of shutting down, and rumors swirled that Fish and Game might close the season. Finally, on a Friday in early August, I made my only delivery of the summer: nine salmon. (Last year on the same day I sold 432; the previous year 1,576.)

The first of a string of storms moved in, and the rivers, still running high from previous flooding, flushed out muddy water and strong current, trees and debris. There was no opener for nearly a week, but thankfully Copper stayed, waiting like the rest of us. Fish and Game agreed to two more trial periods on the 7th and 8th. Around town fishermen who hadn’t been out yet started loading their gear. We had all waited so long. The run had to come.

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I went out alone, as I usually do, and waited near the Noatak mouth until 9 a.m., then strung out two shackles. The current was outgoing and muddy. My anchor line was scary tight and tough to get over the bow. I work through the net and got a small fish and one gill cover, left by the seals. The leadline was getting dirty, not a good sign. I tied off at my buoy and got out my phone. There at the edge of cell range, I tried to get catch information from Elmer Brown, a former fishing partner who hunts and fishes and drives cab and is known for knowing things. A decade ago I nicknamed him Elmerknows.com.

“No clue,” he replied. “I’m babysitting for three hours gonna make more than you today lol.”

By noon my outer shackle was getting fouled with algae and sticks. I gave up and started pulling out. When I turned for home, again it was with only enough to freeze a few, cook one for dinner, and give the rest away. The next day I didn’t even try.

Karen called that weekend to let me know Copper was calling it quits, and I had a paycheck there. I went and picked it up, my lone check: $31 for the season. Back at my shack I built a fire and peered out at rain whipping the world. I was mocking myself, about how I could buy a six-pack of beer and still have five bucks left, when my friend Tim Kurka called. We chatted about fishing, high water and weather, house construction, and politics — which we don’t see eye to eye on. It was good to hear from him. Before we hung up, the conversion went back to salmon. I told him I didn’t know what to think; it wasn’t about money; mostly I was concerned about the salmon. Poor creatures. What is happening out there in the big ocean?

Worry for the future depressed me and I quickly veered back to making fun of myself and my feeble earnings, “Hey Tim, is there a difference between net and gross?”

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Tim is super smart, and always patient with me. He started explaining the difference while I rambled on. “I mean, I know my net is gross…”

The weather went to hell after that and we got slammed by one powerful storm after another, torrential rains, and coastal flooding. It was a demoralizing, catastrophic feeling, and actually, it was fortunate we fishers weren’t out trying to catch in that mess. Except I still needed a dozen salmon for the wedding.

Most days I went out in hideous weather, with a subsistence net. Most days my average was one fish. How could this even be? It seemed impossible. Of course, we’d all heard about the lack of salmon in the Yukon, for years. But that was far away, somewhere over the horizon, different people in a different place. I kept thinking about caribou, too. We’d had so many caribou, for so many years. Both species had been plentiful beyond our realization, for most of our lives. We had lived spoiled beyond words, and unprepared for their sudden absences.

The day before my daughter’s wedding, I slipped anchor in the wet gray dusk at 5 a.m. I motored around the front of the sleeping town and set off what used to be Mamie Beaver’s tiny little house, when I was a kid. The tide was finally coming in. I faced away from the rain, watching my corks, and remembering Mamie, sitting on her bed with her crocheted quilt, so wrinkled and skinny and old — even back then — and laughing. She was always telling stories and laughing. She had big boxes of Lipton tea bags, or maybe it was Red Rose, and her house always smelled like dried fish, seal oil and donuts. I got two hits suddenly, bringing me back to the present. I raced along the corkline to pull in both before the seals. They got the next two.

By 7 a.m. I felt like I might scrape over the finish line as far as fresh fish for the reception. I called some friends, beaver scientists passing through town, and invited them to come out and enjoy the miserable weather. They had fun racing seals and before the current switched we had 20.

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I was wet and cold and shivering by the time I boated into the lagoon. The wind buffeted my boat. I struggled to anchor and haul the tote ashore. Eighteen of the salmon were females, and very small. Kneeling in the grass in slashing wind and rain, I worked as fast as I could, cutting fillets, saving heads and eggs. As I’d seen in July, a higher percentage than usual had tapeworms in the flesh and some had to be discarded. Also, three had skeins of eggs that were mature but nearly empty, with ¼ or less the normal quantity. I couldn’t help wondering where these beautiful fish had been, what they had survived, and what may have killed their companions. The eggs felt good in my hands, beautiful orange pearls, but I wished I’d caught males and wasn’t stuffing these children of future salmon into a plastic bag.

• • •

Now, I’m almost done pulling arm-lengths of dirty net into this old green tote. Sea gulls patrol overhead, crying in the wind, trusting their friend to provide fish scraps. I notice meshes tangling on irises, and I whip the corkline sideways but succeed only in tearing off seed pods. Instantly I’m disgusted with myself. This plant’s entire summer effort, its future offspring, wrecked by me with a flick of my hands.

Every summer I try to avoid stacking my net on various clumps of flowers. I know it’s ridiculous, and I’m soft-hearted. I worry about other species working hard only to have a terrible and ruined season. Today, I can’t help equating these flowers with the salmon. What actions of mine might have damaged the salmons’ offspring? I’m often harshly accused of being an evil environmentalist, but there’s a paradox here that’s more complicated. I love to fish and hunt. It’s been my life. How many humans have killed as many salmon and other fish as I have? How many have killed more animals? Surely many other fishermen and hunters have, and maybe the CEOs of Exxon and BP count, too. But each summer, as I fiercely and relentlessly strive to catch salmon, I question what it all means, this touching and taking of such powerful lives.

There’s a lot more to think about, but not today. This near absence of salmon is new, a sudden loss, and it’s hard to know what to feel. For now, I just want them to come back.

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Alaska

After school funding dispute, 4 Alaska districts move on without federally promised money

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After school funding dispute, 4 Alaska districts move on without federally promised money


Until last month, the U.S. Department of Education said Alaska underfunded four of its largest school districts by $17.5 million. As a result of a recent agreement, the schools in Anchorage, Fairbanks, Juneau and Kenai Peninsula Borough won’t directly receive any of that money.

However, two of the districts said they weren’t counting on receiving the money as they planned their current budgets, while the other districts either didn’t respond or declined to comment.

The $17.5 million is part of COVID-era pandemic funding, and until last month, how Alaska distributed that funding was at the heart of a years-long dispute between federal and state officials, and whether it was spent fairly.

The state repeatedly defended their school spending plan, while the federal government asserted the state failed to comply with guidelines and reduced spending on these districts with high-need or high-poverty areas, and withheld the sum they said was owed.

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Federal officials said the state reduced spending to the Kenai Peninsula and Anchorage school districts by up to $11.89 million in the 2021 to 2022 school year, and all four districts by $5.56 million the following year.

Kenai Superintendent Clayton Holland said the district never budgeted for this particular federal COVID funding, as they were aware of the dispute.

“Had it gone through, we would have welcomed it, as we are facing a potential deficit of $17 million for next year” and have nearly exhausted the balance of funding the district can spend without restrictions, Holland said.

Anchorage School District officials did not respond to requests for comment.

The dispute came to an end on Dec. 20,  when the federal department told the state it was releasing the funding, citing a review of the state’s one-time funding boosts in the last two budgets, and considered the matter closed.

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Alaska Education Commissioner Deena Bishop led the state’s defense effort, including appealing the penalty, and applauded the move by the federal Department of Education. She said the state always followed the state law governing school funding.

“The department said, ‘We don’t agree with your formula, you should have given these guys more.’ And we said, ‘No, no, no. Only our Legislature can make the law about our formula. That’s why we stood behind it,” she said in an interview Tuesday.

The dispute centered around what was known as a “maintenance of equity” provision of a federal COVID aid law, which banned states from dropping per-pupil spending during the pandemic. Bishop said that decreases in funding in the four districts were due to drops in enrollment, according to the state’s spending formula.

Bishop defended the formula as equitable, noting that it factors in geographic area, local tax bases, and other issues. “I just felt strongly that there’s no way that they can say that we’re inequitable, because there are third-party assessments and research that has been done that Alaska actually has one of the most equitable formulas,” she said.

“Our funding formula is a state entity. Our districts are funded according to that,” Bishop said. “And so basically, they [U.S. Department of Education] argued that the distribution of funds from the state funding formula, the state’s own money, right, nothing to do with the Feds, was inequitable.

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“So they picked these districts to say, ‘You need to give them more.’ And we’re saying, ‘No, you don’t have a right to say that. We spent your money, how you said, but only the state Legislature can say’” how to spend state money, she said.

She said the state felt confident about their spending plan for American Rescue Plan Act funding.

In addition to temporarily withholding the funding, the federal government further penalized Alaska by designating it a “high risk” grantee.

Federal and state officials went back and forth on compliance, with the state doubling down, defending their school spending. By May, the state had racked up another $1 million in frozen federal funds.

Bishop said despite the holds from the feds, they continued to award the funds to districts.

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“We felt as though we would prevail. So we never wanted to harm school districts who were appropriated those funds the way that they were supposed to,” she said. School districts followed the dispute closely.

Juneau School District’ Superintendent Frank Hauser said the district did not expect or budget for the funds.

“JSD was slated only to receive approximately $90,000 of the “maintenance of equity” funds, much less than Kenai, Fairbanks, or Anchorage,” he said in an email. “JSD will not receive that money now; however, we had not anticipated receiving it and had not included it in our budget projection.”

The Fairbanks North Star Borough School District declined to comment on the issue. A spokesperson said the district administration is awaiting clarification from the state education department.

On Monday, the administration announced a recommended consolidation plan for five elementary schools to be closed, citing a $16 million deficit for next year. A final vote on whether to close the schools is set for early February.

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Now the state is in the process of applying for reimbursements from the federal Department of Education, and expects to receive that full $17.5 million award, Bishop said. If districts have outstanding pandemic-related expenses, she said those can be submitted to the state, and will be reimbursed according to the state’s COVID-19 funding guidelines. “We’ll process that, and then we’ll go to the Feds and get that money back,” she said.

In December, Gov. Mike Dunleavy applauded the federal announcement, calling the dispute “a tremendous waste of time,” in a prepared statement. He repeated his support for President-elect Donald Trump’s calls to eliminate the U.S. Department of Education.

“On the bright side, this saga is a wonderful case study of the U.S. Department of Education’s abuse of power and serves as further evidence for why I support the concept of eliminating it,” he said.

Dunleavy linked to a social media post he made on X, which read, in part, that eliminating the department “would restore local control of education back to the states, reduce bureaucratic inefficiency and reduce cost. Long overdue.”

Sen. Löki Tobin, D-Anchorage and chair of the Senate Education Committee, pointed to the timing for the outgoing Biden administration and federal leaders’ desire to release funding to Alaska schools.

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“It’s very clear that if the presidential election had ended in a different result, we would not be having this conversation,” she said. “Instead, they would be continuing to work with the department to find a more elegant, a more clean solution.”

She said the federal letter announcing the end to the long dispute doesn’t mean the issue of equity was resolved.

“I think their letter to the Department of Education and Early Development here in Alaska was very clear that Alaska never did fully comply with the guidelines, but instead, due to a want and a fervent hope that the resources would get into the schools and into the communities that so desperately needed them, that they would choose to not pursue further compliance measures,” she said.

Last year, the Legislature passed a budget with $11.89 million included for the state to comply with the federal requirements, but that funding was vetoed by Dunleavy, who defended the state’s position, saying the “need for funds is indeterminate.”

The budget did include a one-time funding boost to all districts, but Tobin said the annual school aid debate left districts in limbo for future budget planning.

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“We can see how this has cost school districts, how it has created instability, how it has resulted in a system that is unpredictable for funding streams for our schools,” Tobin said.

Kenai Superintendent Holland expressed hope that school funding would be prioritized by elected officials this year.

“The bigger issue for us, and for all Alaskan school districts, is what our legislators and governor will decide regarding education funding in the upcoming legislative session,” Holland said.



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Alaska

Alaska's population increases from 2023 to 2024

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Alaska's population increases from 2023 to 2024


The state of Alaska saw an increase in population of 0.31% from 2023 to 2024, despite more people leaving the state than entering it.
The increase is attributed to births outpacing both deaths and outward migration, according to new data from the Department of Labor and Workforce Development. Based on Census Data from 2020 and state data, the population is estimated to have increased to 741,147 people



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Alaska

How Alaska highlighted a record-breaking Pan Am cyclist’s journey through the Americas

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How Alaska highlighted a record-breaking Pan Am cyclist’s journey through the Americas


While Bond Almand can’t pinpoint exactly when he found out about the Pan Am cycling challenge and the record time it’s been completed in, it was something he’s dreamed about for the past decade.

“It’s always been the pinnacle of sport for me,” he said. “A lot of people think the Tour de France is the pinnacle of cycling, but I’ve always been attracted to the longer riding and this was one of the longest routes in the world you could do, so that’s what really attracted me to it.”

The Dartmouth College junior, who grew up near Great Smoky Mountains National Park in Tennessee, set out on Aug. 31, 2024, and completed the challenge Nov. 15. Almand set a record time with more than nine days to spare. The Pan Am route goes from the most northern point in North America to the most southern point in South America and can be traversed either way.

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His desire to attempt to make history brought him all the way to the shores of Prudhoe Bay in Alaska to embark on his long-awaited journey.

“It starts in Alaska, which is somewhere I’ve always wanted to go,” Almand said. “I’d never been to Alaska before and Latin America was an allure to me too because I know a little bit of Spanish, but not that much, so that exploration aspect was an allure as well.”

His stay in the 49th state wound up being longer than he had originally planned, by an additional three days.

“When TSA searched my bike box when I was flying up, they took everything out and failed to put everything back in, so I was missing a piece to my bike when I got to Prudhoe Bay and was stuck there for a couple of days waiting for the new part to come in,” Almand said.

With plenty of time on his hands, Almand walked around town, which mostly consisted of a gravel road, and hitchhiked back and forth to meet people.

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“There’s only like, one place to eat in town, at the Aurora Hotel, so I spent a lot of time there eating at the buffet but I spent a lot of time staring at the tundra,” Almand said.

When his bike part finally arrived and he set out on his adventure, the first leg was his most memorable.

“Alaska was incredible, probably one of my favorite sections for sure,” Almand said. “It was pretty good weather. I went through Brooks Range first, which was just so beautiful. It was fall, so it was turning colors and the aspen were all bright yellow.”

He rode through a little bit of snow in the Brooks Range, enjoyed seeing wildlife and was stunned riding through the Alaska Range and gazing upon Denali.

It only took him around 4 1/2 days to bike through the state, and even though he’s seen mountains of similar and even greater magnitude, having been to the Himalayas in his previous travels, he particularly appreciated his experience in Alaska.

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“Being able to bike through the mountains instead of just flying to Nepal and seeing mountains made it really special,” Almand said. “The further south I got in Alaska got super remote, especially closer to Tok, and that was pretty incredible.”

He said that the most fun part of his journey was Alaska because that was when he was his freshest and he got to take in beautiful scenery and was fortunate enough to get good weather.

“But also Colombia was super exciting,” Almand said. “Like Alaska, there’s some really incredible mountains in Colombia and also beautiful culture and incredible food.”

The best meal he had during his travels was the tamales he ate while biking through pineapple fields in Mexico.

“It was in the middle of nowhere and there was a lady selling pineapple chicken tamales,” Almand said. “She was picking them right out of the field and cooking it right in front of me. Those tamales were so good.”

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Almand’s 75-day ride was significantly faster than the previous record of 84 days, which was held by Michael Strasser. While Almand’s mark appears to be accepted in the bikepacking world, he didn’t have it certified with Guinness. He said that was partly due to cost and partly due to their standard for certification.

“They have a lot of stipulations around the record,” he said. “They have their own measurement, one of which is you have to have witnessing signatures every single day and you have to have live tracking and all these other rules.”

As far as the most challenging portion of his journey, it came while he was traveling through Canada. He had to brave cold rain and strong headwinds, which continued when he got to the Lower 48 and through South America.

“When you’re cycling, headwind is one of the worst things you can have because it slows you down a lot,” Almand said. “From Peru until the finish, I had headwinds pretty much every single day.”

Setting smaller goals for himself along the way helped him push through, including testing both his mind and body. But the biggest motivator was the ultimate goal of achieving his dream, which was more within reach the more he persevered.

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“I’ve been dreaming the entire trip for so long that quitting was never an option,” Almand said. “Quitting would’ve been the hardest thing for me to do because I wouldn’t have been able to go home and live with myself having just walked away from it.”





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