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Wondering where the fish have gone

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Wondering where the fish have gone


KOTZEBUE — It’s raining again, the wind rising and waves sloshing over the grass. I’m yanking at corkline, struggling to stack my salmon nets into old army totes, to protect them from mice and weather for another winter. Commercial fishing in Kotzebue Sound is closed, over before it really started. A complete bust, exponentially worse than any in the past 51 years I’ve participated in this fishery.

Catches were dismal in July and many of us assumed — or tried to believe — that the run was late. Rumors swirled around town: about beluga whales, killer whales, warm water, cold water, and villagers up the Noatak and Kobuk rivers catching runs we’d allegedly missed. I didn’t believe it and kept hoping the dearth of fish was tied to changes some of us have noticed over the decades: how the peak of the run has been arriving later and later in August. Our last best season, two years ago, was slow in July, and in August more salmon flooded in than we’d seen before.

Daily, I texted Karen Gillis, Copper River Seafoods manager, or my deckhand, Catherine Greene, for fish news. None of it was good: catches were minuscule, and effort lagged. A few times a week I tested the waters with a subsistence net–until my dad walked over to Fish & Game and bought a crew license. He wanted to commercial fish. He’s 89, and fished in Kotzebue in 1960 when there was a floating cannery and salmon were 35 cents apiece, and later built a plywood boat and fished with our family from 1974 on.

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He and I headed out the next morning to set off the bar, up near the mouth of the Noatak. It was good to be out there again with him, though strange now, on familiar waters, with an eerie absence of fish. My dad finally saw a hit. We motored over and grabbed the corks, but the seals were faster, swarming in to rip the flapping salmon out of my webbing. We beat them to the next fish, and a few more — just enough to give away, and to keep a bitten one for dinner.

Meanwhile, as the days passed, my daughter’s wedding was looming. I’d happily agreed to provide 17 fresh salmon she requested for the reception. No problem, I’d assured her — except now what normally would be simple was looking tenuous at best.

[The old gray kayak — the value of things made by hand.]

Copper started talking of shutting down, and rumors swirled that Fish and Game might close the season. Finally, on a Friday in early August, I made my only delivery of the summer: nine salmon. (Last year on the same day I sold 432; the previous year 1,576.)

The first of a string of storms moved in, and the rivers, still running high from previous flooding, flushed out muddy water and strong current, trees and debris. There was no opener for nearly a week, but thankfully Copper stayed, waiting like the rest of us. Fish and Game agreed to two more trial periods on the 7th and 8th. Around town fishermen who hadn’t been out yet started loading their gear. We had all waited so long. The run had to come.

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I went out alone, as I usually do, and waited near the Noatak mouth until 9 a.m., then strung out two shackles. The current was outgoing and muddy. My anchor line was scary tight and tough to get over the bow. I work through the net and got a small fish and one gill cover, left by the seals. The leadline was getting dirty, not a good sign. I tied off at my buoy and got out my phone. There at the edge of cell range, I tried to get catch information from Elmer Brown, a former fishing partner who hunts and fishes and drives cab and is known for knowing things. A decade ago I nicknamed him Elmerknows.com.

“No clue,” he replied. “I’m babysitting for three hours gonna make more than you today lol.”

By noon my outer shackle was getting fouled with algae and sticks. I gave up and started pulling out. When I turned for home, again it was with only enough to freeze a few, cook one for dinner, and give the rest away. The next day I didn’t even try.

Karen called that weekend to let me know Copper was calling it quits, and I had a paycheck there. I went and picked it up, my lone check: $31 for the season. Back at my shack I built a fire and peered out at rain whipping the world. I was mocking myself, about how I could buy a six-pack of beer and still have five bucks left, when my friend Tim Kurka called. We chatted about fishing, high water and weather, house construction, and politics — which we don’t see eye to eye on. It was good to hear from him. Before we hung up, the conversion went back to salmon. I told him I didn’t know what to think; it wasn’t about money; mostly I was concerned about the salmon. Poor creatures. What is happening out there in the big ocean?

Worry for the future depressed me and I quickly veered back to making fun of myself and my feeble earnings, “Hey Tim, is there a difference between net and gross?”

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Tim is super smart, and always patient with me. He started explaining the difference while I rambled on. “I mean, I know my net is gross…”

The weather went to hell after that and we got slammed by one powerful storm after another, torrential rains, and coastal flooding. It was a demoralizing, catastrophic feeling, and actually, it was fortunate we fishers weren’t out trying to catch in that mess. Except I still needed a dozen salmon for the wedding.

Most days I went out in hideous weather, with a subsistence net. Most days my average was one fish. How could this even be? It seemed impossible. Of course, we’d all heard about the lack of salmon in the Yukon, for years. But that was far away, somewhere over the horizon, different people in a different place. I kept thinking about caribou, too. We’d had so many caribou, for so many years. Both species had been plentiful beyond our realization, for most of our lives. We had lived spoiled beyond words, and unprepared for their sudden absences.

The day before my daughter’s wedding, I slipped anchor in the wet gray dusk at 5 a.m. I motored around the front of the sleeping town and set off what used to be Mamie Beaver’s tiny little house, when I was a kid. The tide was finally coming in. I faced away from the rain, watching my corks, and remembering Mamie, sitting on her bed with her crocheted quilt, so wrinkled and skinny and old — even back then — and laughing. She was always telling stories and laughing. She had big boxes of Lipton tea bags, or maybe it was Red Rose, and her house always smelled like dried fish, seal oil and donuts. I got two hits suddenly, bringing me back to the present. I raced along the corkline to pull in both before the seals. They got the next two.

By 7 a.m. I felt like I might scrape over the finish line as far as fresh fish for the reception. I called some friends, beaver scientists passing through town, and invited them to come out and enjoy the miserable weather. They had fun racing seals and before the current switched we had 20.

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I was wet and cold and shivering by the time I boated into the lagoon. The wind buffeted my boat. I struggled to anchor and haul the tote ashore. Eighteen of the salmon were females, and very small. Kneeling in the grass in slashing wind and rain, I worked as fast as I could, cutting fillets, saving heads and eggs. As I’d seen in July, a higher percentage than usual had tapeworms in the flesh and some had to be discarded. Also, three had skeins of eggs that were mature but nearly empty, with ¼ or less the normal quantity. I couldn’t help wondering where these beautiful fish had been, what they had survived, and what may have killed their companions. The eggs felt good in my hands, beautiful orange pearls, but I wished I’d caught males and wasn’t stuffing these children of future salmon into a plastic bag.

• • •

Now, I’m almost done pulling arm-lengths of dirty net into this old green tote. Sea gulls patrol overhead, crying in the wind, trusting their friend to provide fish scraps. I notice meshes tangling on irises, and I whip the corkline sideways but succeed only in tearing off seed pods. Instantly I’m disgusted with myself. This plant’s entire summer effort, its future offspring, wrecked by me with a flick of my hands.

Every summer I try to avoid stacking my net on various clumps of flowers. I know it’s ridiculous, and I’m soft-hearted. I worry about other species working hard only to have a terrible and ruined season. Today, I can’t help equating these flowers with the salmon. What actions of mine might have damaged the salmons’ offspring? I’m often harshly accused of being an evil environmentalist, but there’s a paradox here that’s more complicated. I love to fish and hunt. It’s been my life. How many humans have killed as many salmon and other fish as I have? How many have killed more animals? Surely many other fishermen and hunters have, and maybe the CEOs of Exxon and BP count, too. But each summer, as I fiercely and relentlessly strive to catch salmon, I question what it all means, this touching and taking of such powerful lives.

There’s a lot more to think about, but not today. This near absence of salmon is new, a sudden loss, and it’s hard to know what to feel. For now, I just want them to come back.

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Alaska

Alaska National Guardsmen jump twice to rescue 3 people in a day

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Alaska National Guardsmen jump twice to rescue 3 people in a day


Members of the Alaska Air National Guard’s 212 Rescue Squadron carried out complicated pararescue jumps in remote parts of the state over Labor Day Weekend to rescue stranded. At one point, the same team jumped twice in less than a day to rescue two separate survivors of plane crashes.

The Alaska Air National Guard’s busy week started on Aug. 30 with reports of two plane crashes at roughly the same time. The first was in Skwentna, northwest of Anchorage, the other more than 200 miles northeast at Tok, Alaska. The 176th Wing of the Alaska Air National Guard sent a HC-130 plane from the 211 Rescue Squadron as well as two 210th Rescue Squadron HH-60G Pave Hawk helicopters and members of the 212th, known as the Guardian Angels, with them. One of the HH-160Gs, on its way back from Eielson Air Force Base, went to the Swetna crash site. The pilot was luckily uninjured and retrieved by the helicopter crew.

The rest of the dispatched Guardsmen went to Tok. Another plane crash, this one involving a Cessna 150, crash left two people critically injured and trapped inside the aircraft. The HC-130 passed overhead and members of the 212th jumped out, parachuting to the ground and freeing the survivors from the plane. They provided emergency medical care and then the HH-160G flew in, hoisting the survivors up from the crash site before flying them to medical centers. 

“The patient’s extent of injuries versus the time and distance required to reach them, drives our tactics to respond,” combat rescue officer Maj. Dan Warren, who led the team that jumped to the plane crash, said in an Air National Guard release. “Parachuting is simply another means to expedite our access to patient care, which is why we train on it weekly.”

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According to Warren, the rescue teams were jumping and providing medical care in less than an hour after taking off from Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson. 

Warren and that same team were back in an HC-130 and jumping out of it less than 24 hours later. Another plane had crashed, this time near McGrath, roughly 150 miles northwest of Anchorage. Warren’s team, carried on the same HC-130 and HH-60G as the Aug. 30th mission, jumped to the top of a 2,500-foot-tall ridge. The pilot was found dead. The Air National Guard helicopter picked up the Guardian Angels team and the body of the deceased man. According to Alaska public media station KYUK, the pilot is an Anchorage resident and the crash is under investigation. The HH-60G then was sent to pick up a lost hiker while on its way back to base.

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The missions were some of several rescue operations that the 176th Wing carried out over a five-day period including Labor Day Weekend. On Sept. 1-2, members of the Guardian Angels and the 210th Rescue Squadron rescued more hikers who were stranded in Denali National Park. 

The remote nature of many of Alaska’s settlements, and the rough conditions that far north, means that planes are often used to travel between places. And when there are crashes, or people are stranded or lost, the Air National Guard is often called in to do rescue and recovery missions. 

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Alaska

Alaska Stroke Coalition introduces advanced clinical AI tool for hospitals across the state

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Alaska Stroke Coalition introduces advanced clinical AI tool for hospitals across the state


The U.S. Forest Service is asking Alaskans to share the Great Land’s culture with all of America in the form of Christmas tree decorations.
After a tree from Alaska’s Tongass National Forest was chosen as the 2024 U.S. Capitol Christmas Tree earlier this year, residents in Alaska will also have the chance to spruce up the tree before it goes up in D.C.



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Alaska's U.S. House race shifts to 'toss up'

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Alaska's U.S. House race shifts to 'toss up'


Begich, Peltola

Cook Political Report, which analyzes races across the country, has shifted the Alaska U.S. House race from the “Lean Democrat” category to “Toss Up,” in the latest ranking.

The change explains why Democrats, who have their own polling, are now suing the state Division of Elections to save the Rep. Mary Peltola, who is facing Republican Nick Begich in the general election, in her reelection bid.

Along with Peltola now being at risk in the general election, Cook Political Report says that Peltola’s “rural Antifa” colleagues in the House Blue Dog Democrats — Rep. Jared Golden of Maine and Rep. Marie Glusenkamp-Perez of Washington — are also facing tough elections. The new toss-up list for Democrats, per Cook Political Report, is here:

  • AK-AL Peltola
  • CO-08 Caraveo
  • ME-02 Golden
  • MI-07 OPEN (Slotkin)
  • MI-08 OPEN (Kildee)
  • NC-01 Davis
  • NM-02 Vasquez
  • OH-13 Sykes
  • PA-07 Wild
  • PA-08 Cartwright
  • WA-03 Perez

Cook Political Report has seemed reluctant to move Alaska into the toss-up category due to Alaska’s weird open primary and ranked-choice general election scheme. But a recent poll by Cygnal shows that Begich is now even with Peltola. Alaska’s is the most Republican seat in the House that has a Democrat in it and is seen as a strong likelihood to flip back to Republican in November.

Working against Peltola is her own party, which has decided to sue to keep another Democrat, Eric Hafner, off of the November ballot. The Alaska Democrats have hired the nation’s top Democrat election lawyer, Marc Elias, known for sowing chaos in elections.

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The lawsuit drains enthusiasm from the party and embarrasses its Alaska voting membership, since it makes Peltola look desperate and conniving. Peltola would have most certainly approved the party going forward with the lawsuit that is intended to be her life ring.

Also working against Peltola is that the National Republican Congressional Committee is now showing Alaskans Peltola’s actual record in Congress, which has her in the same radical category as Rep. Nancy Pelosi, voting against the interests of Alaskans time and again. Peltola has never had to run against her own immediate voting record and political judgment in the past, but has been able to rely on her personality, personal story, and looks.



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