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The great hollow of Minto Flats

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The great hollow of Minto Flats


MINTO FLATS — Within a vast bowl bordered by blue hills, I rolled along on a trail scratched into ice by snowmachines. That deceptive basin — Minto Flats — is big enough to swallow Denali, if the big mountain happened to stumble in here and fall.

 

Just over a ridge west of Fairbanks, Minto Flats is an oval of swampy lowlands larger than Anchorage. The flats are a quiet expanse that has for longer than anyone’s memory produced moose, beavers and northern pike for local villagers. It has also intrigued oil and gas developers, as well as seismologists who know the self-healing surface hides the scars of large earthquakes.

 

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As the sun rose over the flats and reflected off the wind sculpted snow, teams of sled dogs and their drivers passed me and my fatbike. I was one of three human-powered racers in a contest called the T-Dog. Competitors that day raced from the village of Minto — perched on a hill to the west of the flats — to Fairbanks, 100 miles away.

 

I signed up for the T-Dog to do something new, and to draw a new line on my map that crossed the flats.

 

Instead of dog mushers, a few bikers and a skier, in a few months Minto Flats will be loud with quacks, honks and splashes. Scientists once calculated 213 ducks per square mile existed here during one spring/summer breeding season.

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“Minto Flats constitutes one of the highest quality waterfowl nesting and staging habitats in Alaska, and possibly in North America,” wrote Alaska Department of Fish and Game biologists in the Minto Flats State Game Refuge Management Plan in 1992.

 

In 1961, a geologist named David Barnes of the U.S. Geological Survey in Menlo Park, California, described something extraordinary about the sprawling wetland: The force of gravity is not as strong in the center of Minto Flats as it is in the surrounding hills. That “gravity low,” achieved in part because the Earth isn’t a perfect sphere, means that the force holding dogsled runners to the snow there is a little weaker than on the ridges. It also means that Minto Flats is sinking.

 

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Scientists have calculated that the descending basin of Minto Flats is 56 miles long, 7.5 miles wide and 4.5 miles deep. That would allow the flats (if you scooped out all the muck) to swallow Denali, at 20,310 feet a little less than four miles tall.

 

The basin, however, is now full. Over millions of years, rivers have pumped in ground-up rock, filling Minto Flats with sediment and amplifying the effects of big earthquakes. Those include magnitude 7.2’s in both 1937 and 1947 and a 6 felt by many Fairbanks residents in 1995.

 

Carl Tape of the University of Alaska Fairbanks Geophysical Institute and his colleagues installed seismometers near Minto village and in spots along the adjacent Tanana River during the last 10 years. They have determined that earthquakes in Minto Flats and the larger Nenana Basin (of which it is a part) feel stronger to the observer than earthquakes that shake people standing on more solid ground.

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That intensified earthquake shaking is typical of towns and cities built upon sedimentary basins, among them Tokyo, San Francisco and Los Angeles.

 

When the faults beneath Minto Flats slip, Fairbanks can rattle with a magnitude 7 earthquake. Other population centers adjacent to the flats are Minto village (150 people counted in the 2020 census), Manley Hot Springs (169) and Nenana (380).

 

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In the middle of the flats in March, there seemed to be no one except those traversing it along a blue/white line of trail. Besides that big-sky feeling a person gets while driving across South Dakota, another sensation came to mind when biking Minto Flats: They are nice and flat.

 

It also helped that the snowmachine trails were hard as pavement. And that the 50 miles from Minto to the town of Nenana features a 40-foot elevation drop. From there, it’s slightly uphill to Fairbanks upon trails pressed into the frozen Tanana River by a few hundred Iditarod dogs in early March.

 

In 100-plus miles from the village of Minto to my home (to which I pedaled), the total elevation gain was just 56 feet. Add to that the imperceptible boost of riding through the flats where gravity wasn’t giving its best shot, I had no excuses not to make it home.

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Alaska

Trump Repeals Biden Land Protections in Alaska, Other States

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Trump Repeals Biden Land Protections in Alaska, Other States


President Donald Trump on Thursday signed several congressional measures designed to undo Biden administration land conservation policies restricting energy development in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and federal lands in three Western states.



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Alaska Hosts US Bomber Exercise Against ‘Threats to the Homeland’

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Alaska Hosts US Bomber Exercise Against ‘Threats to the Homeland’


The United States deployed two bombers to simulate strikes against “maritime threats” to the homeland in response to a growing Russian and Chinese presence near Alaska.

Newsweek has contacted China’s Foreign Ministry for comment by email. Russia’s defense and foreign ministries did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

Why It Matters

Russia and China have closely cooperated in military matters under their “partnership without limits,” including a joint naval maneuver in the north Pacific near Alaska’s Aleutian Islands involving 11 Russian and Chinese vessels in summer 2023.

Facing a growing Moscow-Beijing military partnership, along with increased Chinese activities in the Arctic, the U.S. has been reinforcing its military presence in Alaska by deploying warships and conducting war games with its northern neighbor, Canada.

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Bombers, capable of flying long distances and carrying large amounts of armaments, are a key instrument for the U.S. military to signal its strength. The American bomber force has recently conducted operations as a show of force aimed at Russia and China.

What To Know

According to a news release, the Alaskan Command executed simulated joint maritime strikes with Air Force B-52H bombers and the Coast Guard national security cutter USCGC Kimball in the Gulf of Alaska on Tuesday as part of Operation Tundra Merlin.

The bombers are assigned to the 2nd Bomb Wing out of Barksdale Air Force Base in Louisiana, while the Kimball is homeported in Honolulu. The 354th Fighter Wing at Eielson Air Force Base in Alaska also deployed four F-35A stealth fighters.

Other supporting units included two KC-135 aerial refueling aircraft and an HC-130 aircraft on standby to conduct personnel recovery missions, the news release said.

During the operation, the bombers received target information from the Kimball for standoff target acquisition and simulated weapons use, while the F-35A jets—tasked with escorting the bombers—enhanced mission security and operational effectiveness.

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According to an Air Force fact sheet, each B-52H bomber has a maximum payload of 70,000 pounds and is capable of carrying up to 20 standoff weapons—designed to be fired from outside enemy defenses—such as the Joint Air-to-Surface Standoff Missile.

The simulated strikes “demonstrated the capability of the [U.S. Northern Command] and its mission partners to deter maritime threats to the homeland,” the news release said.

Homeland defense is the Alaskan Command’s top priority, said its commander, U.S. Air Force Lieutenant General Robert Davis, adding that the ability to integrate with other commands and partners is key to safeguarding the U.S. northern approaches.

What People Are Saying

U.S. Air Force Lieutenant General Robert Davis, the commander of the Alaskan Command, said: “Operations in the Alaskan Theater of Operations are critically important to North American Homeland Defense. Operation Tundra Merlin demonstrates the Joint Force’s ability to seamlessly integrate capabilities from multiple combatant commands and mission partners to deter and defeat potential threats in the region.”

The Alaskan Command said: “Operation Tundra Merlin is a Homeland Defense focused joint operation designed to ensure the defense of U.S. territory and waters within the Alaskan Theater of Operations (AKTO). The operation includes integration with partners in the region with the shared goal of North American defense in the Western Arctic.”

What Happens Next

It remains to be seen whether Russia and China will conduct another joint air patrol near Alaska following a similar operation over the western Pacific earlier this week.

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Dunleavy says he plans to roll out fiscal plan ahead of Alaska lawmakers’ return to Juneau

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Dunleavy says he plans to roll out fiscal plan ahead of Alaska lawmakers’ return to Juneau


Gov. Mike Dunleavy says he will roll out a new plan to stabilize Alaska’s tumultuous state finances in the coming weeks ahead of next month’s legislative session. The upcoming session provides Dunleavy his last chance to address an issue that has vexed his seven years in office.

“(The) next three, four, five years are going to be tough,” Dunleavy told reporters Tuesday ahead of his annual holiday open house. “We’re going to have to make some tough decisions, and that’s why we will roll out, in a fiscal plan, solutions for the next five years.”

The state’s fiscal issues are structural. Since oil prices collapsed in the mid-2010s, Alaska has spent more money than it has taken in despite years of aggressive cost-cutting and a 2018 move to tap Permanent Fund earnings to fund state services.

Dunleavy said a boom in oil and gas drilling and growing interest in a natural gas pipeline from the North Slope to an export terminal will likely ease the fiscal pressure in the coming years. He said his plan would serve as a bridge.

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“I think the next five years, we’re going to have to be real careful, and we’re going to have to have in place things that will pay for government,” he said.

Dunleavy, a Republican, declined to reveal even the broad strokes of his plan, saying he plans to hold news conferences in the coming weeks to discuss it.

Prior efforts by Dunleavy and the Legislature to come to an agreement on a long-term fiscal plan have failed.

Dunleavy’s early plans for deep cuts led to an effort to recall him. He has also backed attempts to cap state spending and constitutionalize the Permanent Fund dividend.

A prior Dunleavy revenue commissioner floated a few tax proposals during talks with a legislative committee in 2021, but Dunleavy has since distanced himself from those ideas. Alaska is the only state with no state-level sales or income tax, and asked directly whether his plan would include a sales tax, he declined to say.

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“You’re just going to have to just wait a couple more weeks, and we’ll have that entire fiscal plan laid out, so you guys can take a look at it, and the people of Alaska can take a look at it,” he said.

In recent years, Dunleavy has proposed budgets with large deficits that require spending from savings. His most recent budget would have drained about half of the savings in the state’s $3 billion rainy-day fund, the Constitutional Budget Reserve, or CBR.

Still, Dunleavy says he wants to find a sustainable fiscal path forward for the state.

“We are determined to help solve this longstanding issue of, how do you deal with balancing the budget, and not just on the backs of the PFD or the CBR — what other methods are we going to employ to be able to do that?” he said.

Whether lawmakers will be receptive is an open question. Democrat-heavy bipartisan coalitions control both the state House and Senate, and even some minority Republicans crossed over to override Dunleavy’s vetoes repeatedly this year.

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Dunleavy’s budget proposal is likely to offer some clues about the governor’s fiscal plan. He has until Dec. 15 to unveil it.



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