Alaska
‘The birds are a global citizen’: Indigenous groups in Australia and Alaska team up to track a feathered adventurer’s epic journey
Short-tailed shearwaters used to blacken the skies on the south-west coast of Australia, so abundant were they in their coastal homes each Djilba season – the time in the calendar of the Noongar peoples between August and September, when days shift from blustery cold and wet winds to warmer weather.
In Wudjari Noongar, the language of the traditional owners of this place they call Kepa Kurl, but which since colonisation has been called Esperance, the birds are called yowli. To other cultures they are muttonbirds.
At the other end of the year, on the other side of the globe, flocks of shearwaters would darken the skies in Alaska, ready to feast on the teeming fish and squid from melting ice and snow in the Arctic summer. Like the Wudjari, the Yup’ik would mark their arrival.
But First Nations peoples on both coasts have noticed that something is wrong. They began to see sick and dying shearwaters washing up on beaches: emaciated, their bellies filled with microplastics instead of food. Birds were turning up in places they hadn’t been seen before, veering far away from their fixed migration routes as they searched farther afield for food.
Jennell Reynolds, healthy country program coordinator and senior ranger with Esperance Tjaltjraak Native Title Aboriginal Corporation, grew up hearing stories of the yowli. More than 30 million return each year to breeding colonies off Australia’s southern coastline, mostly concentrating in the eastern states – but large numbers also return to burrows in the craggy archipelagos off Western Australia’s southern coast as well as the sand hills near Esperance, an area known for its pristine waters and white sandy beaches.
“It’s so graceful seeing them skip across the water when they’re feeding and diving,” Reynolds says. “They are such inquisitive birds when they come into the land.”
In April they return north to make the 15,000km journey back to Alaska, with newly fledged chicks in tow.
In an attempt to understand the birds’ perilous journey, Tjaltjraak rangers are working with Yup’ik and other Alaskan traditional owners. The global research project combinesecological, scientific and ancestral knowledge.
“It was one of those things where you know that you’ve got this connection through this one bird,” Reynolds tells Guardian Australia. “It’s a special moment because we are all on the same page in relation to taking care of country. We both have a kinship with the animals and wildlife and we’re making sure that we have that same responsibility for looking after them.”
The collaboration began by building on pre-existing relationships between the Tjaltjraak rangers and their Eyak, Iñupiaq, Yup’ik and Alutiiq community counterparts. Early conversations revealed shared concerns about declining numbers.
David Guilfoyle, a coordinator with the Tjaltjraak rangers, spent many years living and working in Alaska. He says those longstanding community ties helped fast‑track what is now a formal cross‑cultural partnership.
The project aims to form a clearer picture of how the birds live: their migration patterns; how deep they plunge the ocean in their quest for food; and ultimately the risks they are facing in a changing environment.
“It’s very holistic,” Guilfoyle says. “It’s not just looking at the species so much as looking at the whole ecosystem and what role these birds play, and what we can do to protect and manage them. But we can’t do that until we get a lot of data.”
The rangers knew the birds returned each year to colonies off Esperance; Alaskan communities knew when they arrived in their waters. But the exact route, the staging areas and what was happening in between remained largely invisible.
To answer those questions, Tjaltjaak rangers had to catch and tag the yowli. That meant working quietly and quickly in cold, dark and potentially snake-infested sand dunes on an island in the middle of the Southern Ocean, with only red torchlight to see by, says one ranger, Hayleigh Graham.
The team placed tiny, almost weightless sensors and tags on them – which required a little finessing to ensure the technology would adhere to delicate legs and tails.
“We had to sort of sand it back, so we made a bit of glue but the glue didn’t really work as well, so then we tried double-sided tape but, nope, that wasn’t so good,” Graham says.
“We ended up having to get some smaller zip ties to try and trim it off and make sure the ethics of the way we put it on wasn’t hurting or damaging the birds, and then as the sun started to go down, within a few minutes, we got our first yowli.”
By the end of the night, they had tagged 21 birds.
“It’s still really early days,” Guilfoyle says. “We’re really nervous. I can’t sleep since we’ve tagged these birds – every hour I’m checking the map about where they’re going. It’s like being an expectant parent.
“We watch them every day, so now it seems like they’re starting to slowly track towards Tassie, and then eventually they’ll just start missioning north to Alaska.”
Tjaltjraak rangers say the birds are not only culturally significant but vital to the area’s delicate ecosystem. The shearwater’s fixed habits make it a warning sign for the health of their breeding and feeding grounds.
“It’s like an alarm bell,” Guilfoyle says. “If we don’t see them as much now, what have we lost? At the very basic level, that observational data is a call to action: we need to make sure that we’re not just falling for the trap of shifting baselines.”
Climate threats
Estelle Thomson is a Yup’ik leader and president of the Native Village of Paimiut Traditional Council. She lives in Anchorage and works closely with Indigenous rangers and wildlife ecologists as a bird migration advocate and vice-chair for the Yukon River Inter-Tribal Commission, which represents 43 tribes from the Bering Sea to territories bordering Canada.
She says the shearwater were not originally one of the hundreds of birds that flew to the vast Yup’ik lands but were usually found on a cluster of islands in the Bering Sea. But they have been recorded as far south-west as the Kuskokwim River, far from their traditional migration path.
“They typically go to the Aleutian Islands … but because of climate change and because of a whole bunch of extenuating circumstances, they’ve actually been starting to come into my region,” Thomson says.
“We can tell when things are starting to go a little bit awry with the birds. We can tell when they’re not getting enough food, if they’re not coming in at the times that they normally do. We can tell when they’re late. We can tell if their food sources are having difficulty.”
The permafrost tundra is melting, leaving the region vulnerable to typhoons and other extreme weather events. The climate emergency is displacing Indigenous peoples from their lands. Once-abundant traditional food sources are becoming scarcer.
Many of those food sources are migratory birds – some 220 species of which spent part of the year in Alaska. Thomson has partnered with Indigenous peoples around the globe through a collective calledChildren of the Sky, which brings First Nations people together to gain a deeper shared understanding of migratory birds and their place in our ecosystem.
“Our peoples have specific, traditional ecological and Indigenous knowledge about our non-human relatives,” she says. “The people on the other side of flyway that we’re on also carry knowledge. So when we get together, we’re able to share what we know from each of our perspectives …
“The birds are a global citizen. This bird has no allegiance to any specific country. It doesn’t look at the boundaries of borders.”
Reynolds says she hopes the project will open the way to other cross-cultural endeavours.
First, though, rangers will have to catch the birds again next November to remove their tags.
“We’re all custodians now,” Reynolds says. “It’s not just us. It’s everyone’s responsibility to be able to care for country.”
Choosing a place to settle in Alaska usually comes down to which trade-offs work. Road system or off-road system. Cruise-ship economy or fishing-fleet economy. Anchorage commute or Inside Passage isolation. The seven towns ahead reach across Southcentral, the Kenai Peninsula, and Southeast Alaska. Each runs a working economy, hospital access, and the kind of community infrastructure that supports day-to-day life through the long winters. Median home prices range from $405,000 in Ketchikan to $688,800 in Sitka.
Homer
Homer sits at the end of the Sterling Highway on the Kenai Peninsula, about a five-hour drive south of Anchorage. The town has earned the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World” tagline and runs one of the state’s largest charter fleets out of the Homer Spit, the 4.5-mile gravel bar that extends into Kachemak Bay. The Pratt Museum on Bartlett Street covers regional natural and cultural history, including the Lower Cook Inlet ecosystems and the 1989 Exxon Valdez oil spill response. Bishop’s Beach gives walkers direct access to the bay shoreline.
The local economy runs on commercial fishing, tourism, the arts community, and small-scale agriculture in the warmer microclimate that the Kachemak Bay creates. The median home price runs about $538,800. The South Peninsula Hospital handles regional medical needs, and the Kenai Peninsula Borough School District operates Homer High School and West Homer Elementary. The Bunnell Street Arts Center on Old Town Bishop’s Beach Road runs gallery rotations and music events year-round.
Seward
Seward sits at the head of Resurrection Bay on the eastern side of the Kenai Peninsula, about a two-and-a-half-hour drive south of Anchorage on the Seward Highway. The town is the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park, which protects roughly 700 square miles of glaciated coastline along the Gulf of Alaska. Day boat tours from the Seward harbor reach the Aialik Glacier and the Holgate Glacier from late spring through early fall.
The median home price runs about $462,000, more accessible than larger Alaskan cities even though Seward draws the largest summer cruise-ship volume on the peninsula. The economy runs on tourism, marine research at the Alaska SeaLife Center, fishing, and public service. Seward Community Health Center handles primary care; the Providence Seward Medical Center on First Avenue covers acute care and emergency. The Mount Marathon Race, held every July 4 since 1915, sends runners up and down the 3,022-foot Mount Marathon directly behind town and is one of the oldest mountain races in the United States.
Sitka
Sitka sits on the west side of Baranof Island in the Alexander Archipelago, with Tlingit roots going back thousands of years and a Russian colonial history from the founding of the Redoubt Saint Michael settlement in 1799. In 1808, the Russians established Sitka (then New Archangel) as the new capital of Russian America, moving the seat of government away from Kodiak. On October 18, 1867, Sitka was the site of the formal handover of Alaska to the United States, ending Russian colonial rule. The Sitka National Historical Park preserves the site of the 1804 Battle of Sitka along with one of the most accessible totem pole collections in Alaska.
Housing is on the higher end at a median price of about $688,800. Sitka’s economy supports fishing, healthcare, education, and tourism, and the city operates as a borough that covers most of Baranof Island. The Sitka School District serves about 1,100 students. SEARHC Mt. Edgecumbe Medical Center on Halibut Point Road provides regional healthcare. The Alaska Raptor Center rehabilitates eagles, owls, and hawks across a 17-acre forested campus, and the Baranof Castle State Historic Site marks the bluff where the 1867 transfer ceremony took place.
Ketchikan
As Alaska’s southernmost city and the first stop on the Inside Passage cruise route, Ketchikan sits at the southern tip of Revillagigedo Island. The town runs one of the largest commercial salmon harvests in Southeast Alaska. With a median home price around $405,000, Ketchikan is moderately affordable by Alaskan standards. The town is accessible only by sea or air, and the Ketchikan International Airport sits on neighboring Gravina Island, reached by a short ferry crossing.
Ketchikan’s economy runs on fishing, seafood processing, and a cruise-season tourism industry that brings about a million visitors per year between May and September. The Ketchikan Gateway Borough School District operates Ketchikan High School, and the University of Alaska Southeast runs a satellite campus in town. PeaceHealth Ketchikan Medical Center provides full medical services. Recreation centers on the Deer Mountain trail, historic Creek Street (the former red-light district on pilings over Ketchikan Creek), and the Totem Bight State Historical Park with restored and replica Tlingit and Haida totem poles. The Blueberry Arts Festival on the first weekend of August anchors the local summer calendar.
Petersburg
Petersburg sits on the north end of Mitkof Island, halfway between Juneau and Ketchikan along the Inside Passage. The town is known as “Little Norway” because Norwegian immigrant Peter Buschmann founded the settlement in 1897, drawing Scandinavian fishermen who shaped the town’s identity. Petersburg was incorporated in 1910 and still celebrates Norwegian Constitution Day on May 17 with the multi-day Little Norway Festival, the longest Syttende Mai celebration of any Norwegian-American community in the country. Sing Lee Alley holds rosemaling-decorated wooden buildings and the Sons of Norway Hall, built in 1912 on pilings over the water.
Fishing and seafood processing drive the local economy; Petersburg is consistently ranked among the top 25 fishing ports in the United States by dollar value. With a median home price of about $422,500, Petersburg runs moderately affordable by Alaskan standards. Students are served by the Petersburg School District, and Petersburg Medical Center operates a 24/7 emergency department. The Bojer Wikan Fisherman’s Memorial Park at the harbor holds the Valhalla, a miniature Viking ship, as a memorial to local fishermen lost at sea.
Kenai
Kenai sits at the mouth of the Kenai River on the western side of the Kenai Peninsula, with views across Cook Inlet to the active volcanoes of Mount Redoubt and Mount Iliamna. The Kenai River produces the largest sport king salmon runs in the world; the world-record king salmon, weighing 97 pounds 4 ounces, was caught in the river by Les Anderson in May 1985 and the record still stands. The Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Orthodox Church, built between 1894 and 1895, is a National Historic Landmark and one of the oldest Russian Orthodox churches in Alaska.
The median home price runs about $429,000. The local economy is fueled by oil and gas, commercial fishing, tourism, and remote-work transplants. Kenai Central High School serves area students, and Central Peninsula Hospital sits a short drive away in Soldotna. Weekends often run on fishing trips along the Kenai River, hiking nearby trails, or watching beluga whales along Cook Inlet from the Erik Hansen Scout Park bluff. The Kenai River Festival in June brings people together at the riverfront.
Wasilla
Wasilla sits in the heart of the Matanuska-Susitna Valley about 45 minutes north of Anchorage on the Parks Highway. The city holds about 10,000 residents, the largest city outside Anchorage in the Mat-Su Borough, with views of the Talkeetna Mountains to the north and Pioneer Peak to the east. With a median home price of about $449,000, Wasilla runs notably more affordable than Anchorage proper and has drawn commuters, young families, and remote workers across the past decade.
The economy runs on construction, retail, logistics, healthcare, and small businesses. The Matanuska-Susitna Borough School District supports the area’s educational needs, while Mat-Su Regional Medical Center handles healthcare for the valley. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race holds its ceremonial start in Anchorage on the first Saturday in March, with the official restart in Willow the next day, about 30 minutes north of Wasilla on the Parks Highway. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters is in Wasilla and houses a museum about the race. Lake Lucille Park and Iditapark add walking trails and lake access close to downtown.
Choosing The Right Alaska Town
The seven split roughly into three regional clusters. The Kenai Peninsula produces Homer, Seward, and Kenai. The Inside Passage produces Sitka, Ketchikan, and Petersburg. The Mat-Su Valley produces Wasilla. Road-system access goes to the Kenai Peninsula and Mat-Su towns; the Southeast Alaska towns are reachable only by air or sea. Median home prices run from about $405,000 in Ketchikan to about $688,800 in Sitka. The right choice depends on whether the move favors road connections to Anchorage, the year-round Inside Passage rhythm, or the marine economy of the Kenai Peninsula.
At Icy Strait Point, visitors can spot whales and eagles while supporting a small Alaska community.
How cruise tourism could help and hurt Alaska’s environment
Although Alaskans rely on revenue tourism cruise ships bring in, some locals are raising concerns on the impact of tourism on Alaska’s environment.
Icy Strait Point in Hoonah, Alaska, offers a rare kind of cruise stop — one where nature, culture, and community take center stage. It was also specifically developed with tourists in mind.
Built on Huna Tlingit land near Hoonah, this privately owned destination was designed to spread visitors across 23,000 acres of wilderness rather than overwhelm the town. The result is a place where travelers can see bald eagles, sea lions, and crashing waves instead of traffic and tour buses.
Beyond its dramatic scenery, Icy Strait Point generates about $20 million in annual economic impact for a community of roughly 900 people, supporting hundreds of jobs, making it a model for how tourism can benefit residents while preserving Alaska’s character.
Why it matters
Located on Huna Tlingit land, Icy Strait Point shows how tourism can support small communities while preserving their identity. Places like this reflect a broader American story of stewardship, self-determination, and economic opportunity.
According to Icy Strait Point’s Senior Vice President, Tyler Hackman, the destination generates “$20 million a year of positive economic impact on a community of 900 people,” creating jobs while allowing Hoonah to remain distinctly itself.
What to see today
Unlike many cruise ports, Icy Strait Point feels remarkably undeveloped.
“This place is mostly untouched,” Hackman said. “When a ship comes into a dock here, somebody can be standing on the top deck of the ship, and you don’t see a parking lot, you don’t see a bus, you don’t see a vehicle.”
Visitors can take a gondola to the mountaintop for sweeping views, then follow Hackman’s advice and head to the beach in front of the historic cannery. There, they can search for shells, dip their hands in Alaska’s icy waters, and take in snowcapped peaks on the horizon — and maybe spot a humpback whale or an orca.
Ask a local
For a sweet stop with a bigger purpose, visit Lil’ Gen’s Mini-Doughnuts.
Operated by The Salvation Army, the shop serves warm mini-doughnuts to cruise visitors all summer. The impact extends far beyond dessert: Hackman said that in 2025, profits from the shop helped fund “$130,000 worth of food to the local community.”
It’s a delicious way to support Hoonah residents directly. Try the lemon sugaring.
Plan your visit
- Best time: May through September during the Alaska cruise season.
- Hours/admission: Open seasonally. Access is included with most cruise itineraries.
- Getting there: Primarily reached by cruise ship from Southeast Alaska itineraries.
- Learn more: https://icystraitpoint.com/
Governor Mike Dunleavy today announced the appointment of Stephen Cox as his new Counsel to the Governor. The appointment comes after the legislature’s decision to not confirm him as attorney general, despite his extensive legal and public policy experience and proven record of defending Alaska’s interests both at home and on the national level. Cox’s responsibilities will be to advise Governor Dunleavy on a wide range of legal, regulatory, and constitutional matters affecting the State of Alaska.
Governor Dunleavy also appointed Cori Mills acting attorney general for the Alaska Department of Law. Mills has been with the department for 14 years and most recently served as deputy attorney general.
“Stephen Cox has a strong understanding of Alaska law and the challenges facing our state,” said Governor Dunleavy. “His experience, professionalism, and commitment to public service make him a valuable asset as Counsel to the Governor. I look forward to working with Stephen as we continue advancing policies that strengthen Alaska’s economy, uphold the rule of law, and serve the people of our state.”
As Counsel to the Governor, Cox will continue to work closely with the Department of Law and other executive branch departments to provide counsel on policy initiatives, legislation, and executive actions.
“I am honored to serve Governor Dunleavy and the people of Alaska in this new role,” said Stephen Cox. “I look forward to continue supporting the administration’s efforts to promote responsible resource development, governance and opportunities for Alaskans across the state.”
Cox assumes his new role effective today.
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