Alaska
Caribou herds in Arctic Alaska tundra areas are on opposite trends • Alaska Beacon
The Western Arctic Caribou Herd, once the biggest in Alaska, is faltering, having fallen from a high of 490,000 animals in 2003 to only 152,000 as of 2023. But to the east, the Porcupine Caribou Herd appears to be thriving, with an all-time high of 218,00 animals recorded at the last census. That makes it, rather than the Western Arctic herd, the state’s largest.
Why are the herds following opposite trends? An answer, Alaska scientists say, is found in what is growing on the ground – and the way the warming climate has changed those plants.
Woody shrubs and even trees are spreading rapidly over Arctic regions of Northwest Alaska, the area where the Western Arctic herd ranges, said Roman Dial, a professor at Alaska Pacific University. But that plant transformation, which scientists refer to as “shrubification,” has been much slower on the eastern side of Arctic Alaska, the range for the Porcupine Caribou Herd, he said.
For caribou, growth of woody plants like alders and willows means problems. Caribou depend on tundra plants like lichen and mosses; the shrubs and trees taking over the terrain are reducing the availability of that food favored by the animals.
Dial has studied changes in Alaska plant growth for several years and has been traveling in the Brooks Range since he was a teenager in the 1970s.
Even though his recent years’ work in Arctic Alaska has been focused on plants, he said encountering willows and other woody plants covering what used to be open tundra west of the Dalton Highway made him think right away of animals.
“A lot of caribou trails were getting overgrown and disappeared, and you’d find really old antlers that were in skulls that were kind of buried in the tundra, so caribou hadn’t been there for a long time,” he said. “Right away it was, like: ‘Wow, caribou are changing their routes.’ And you could see it.”
The overgrown state of caribou trails that had been etched into tundra terrain over multiple years of migration was instructive, Dial said.
When he presented his studies during the December annual meeting of the Western Arctic Caribou Herd Working Group, the advisory panel representing villagers and others dependent on the herd, Dial described what might be a caribou’s view of the plant takeover, and he used a brief video from the field to illustrate his point.
He does not like walking through willows that can be eight feet tall, “and I don’t think caribou like going through willows either,” Dial told the working group. “If my antlers were all tender and velvet, I wouldn’t want to go through a bunch of tall willows. And also, when you go through willows, there’s bears in there.”
Changes in caribou habitat are linked to reduced Arctic sea ice, which itself is a direct result of accelerated climate warming in the Northern Hemisphere, Dial said.
Open water leads to more snowfall, he said, as there is more moisture sent into the atmosphere to fall as precipitation, More snowfall insulates the ground, keeping soil temperatures warmer through the winter, he explained. Warmer soil temperatures encourage plant growth and the spread of woody shrubs and trees. More woody plants on the ground make life harder for caribou, both by displacing their usual tundra food sources and by creating new obstacles to movement.
Open water does not affect Alaska’s western and eastern Arctic tundra regions equally, and the results are seen on the ground, Dial said.
Sea ice retreat usually forms later and melts earlier in the Chukchi Sea, which lies off the northwestern coast, than in the Beaufort Sea, which lies off Alaska’s northeastern coast. Utqiagvik – the nation’s northernmost community – is the point where the two Arctic seas meet. Relatively warm Pacific Ocean water flows into the Chukchi through the Bering Strait, making ice there more seasonal, meaning it forms and melts earlier each year. In contrast, an ocean circulation system called the Beaufort Gyre sends old multiyear ice from north of Canada into the Beaufort, making the freeze there a little more resilient. While ice retreat has been significant over the past decades in both seas, the characteristics of the Chukchi make it particularly vulnerable, and it has lost both the thickness and extent of ice at a faster rate than almost any marginal sea in the Arctic, according to climate scientists.
Both the Western Arctic herd range and the Porcupine herd range have become warmer in summer and snowier in winter, according to records kept by the Alaska Center for Climate Assessment and Policy at the University of Alaska Fairbanks. But the summer change has been more intense in the western range, particularly in coastal areas off Nome and Kotzebue, according to the data.
The work by Dial and his colleagues to track the changes involved an old-fashioned method: walking the ground.
The idea to do that was inspired by studies of shrub growth that is spreading up to higher elevations around Anchorage – and made necessary by the COVID-19 pandemic, which shut down National Science Foundation-funded air travel in 2020, Dial said. Some of the Alaska Pacific University students who were working with him on studying vegetation were enlisted to go north to be part of the Brooks Range expeditions.
In 2020 and 2021, they walked hundreds of miles of the terrain, smartphones in hand, looking down and recording changes in the plants growing on either side of the Dalton Highway. “It kind of added a new dimension to hiking,” he said. A study published in June details the findings from their treks in 2020.
A separate but related study, published about a year ago, examined tree rings to show a correlation between growth and proximity to open Arctic water. The study, which Dial did with Patrick Sullivan of the University of Alaska Anchorage and other scientists, focuses on white spruce trees from 19 different sites along the Brooks Range. Those trees were small, ranging from ankle to chest height, indicating that they were recent arrivals, Dial said.
The on-the-groundwork by Dial, Sullivan and their colleagues adds to past research that tracked the northward spread of woody plants by more distant methods. A 2018 study by scientists from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, UAF and other organizations, for example, used 50 years’ worth of aerial photographs to identify shrub and tree expansion into the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge in northeastern Alaska, where the Porcupine herd ranges. The study found that shrubs had spread into the refuge’s tundra regions over the half-century period, but they had done so at a slower pace than in other Arctic Alaska tundra regions.
The growth of woody plants in Arctic tundra regions affects more than caribou.
In northwestern Alaska, where the growth has been most dramatic, it has attracted a proliferation of beavers, for example. And as beavers colonize the landscape, they are transforming it with thousands of new dams that pool water that, in turn, speed thaw of permafrost and feed into the cycle of shrub expansion.
Broader climate change impacts
Climate change impacts on the Western Arctic Caribou Herd go beyond the spread of shrubs displacing tundra plants.
Warm winter conditions in 2005 produced two days of rain in the herd’s winter range, creating a thick layer of ice that encased the tundra plants that the animals eat. A large die-off followed, according to the Alaska Department of Fish and Game.
Wildland fires that are becoming more common as conditions warm can also affect caribou by destroying the slow-growing lichen and other tundra plants the animals eat. That has long been known to be an issue for caribou in more southern and boreal regions, such as Interior Alaska’s Nelchina herd. Now wildfire has emerged as a threat to the Western Arctic Caribou Herd’s habitat.
The Western Arctic herd’s declines are part of a circumpolar trend.
Tundra caribou populations across the Arctic have declined by 65% over the last two to three decades, according to the 2024 Arctic Report Card released in December by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. Alaska’s Western Arctic Caribou Herd was one of those identified as having the most dramatic declines.
“Warmer summer and fall temperatures, changes in winter snowfall, and an increasing human footprint collectively stress Arctic caribou, altering their distribution, movements, survival and productivity,” the report card said.
The Porcupine herd, in contrast, was cited in the Arctic Report Card as one of the major herds with a stable or increasing population, thus going against the dominant trend. The 218,000 total last counted was an increase from 197,000 in 2013. Because the last full census of the Porcupine herd was completed several years ago, in 2017, that population is classified as stable rather than increasing.
For the Western Arctic herd, changes go beyond its sliding population numbers. The herd has also A key metric measured by federal and state biologists who study the herd is the date when southward-moving caribou cross the Kobuk River, a waterway that flows west from the Brooks Range into Kotzebue Sound. Over the decades, most collared caribou spend summers north of the river and winters south of it, though in five years since 2016, fewer than half of the collared animals went that far south in their fall migration, according to the data.
At the December meeting of the Western Arctic Caribou Herd, National Park Service biologist Kyle Joly said the average river-crossing date in 2023 was notably late: Nov. 8. “It was the latest-ever average time that they crossed. I actually had to extend my graph here because the number didn’t fit,” Joly told working group members.
Caribou that do cross have also shifted the location of where they do so, and where they spend the winter. There has been a notable lack of caribou on the Seward Peninsula in the western part of the traditional range, according to the data from collared animals. None were tracked into Bering Land Bridge National Preserve, Joly said.
On-the-ground observations match the data, he said. “Twenty-five years ago, Unalakeet was a great place to see caribou,” he said. Residents haven’t seen caribou there for several years, he said.
While the Western Arctic and Porcupine herds are following opposite trends, both face challenges from industrial development or potential development.
The biggest development project envisioned for the Western Arctic herd’s range is the Ambler Access Project, which would construct a road about 200 miles into the Brooks Range foothills to an isolated mining district. The Biden administration rejected a plan for road construction, but the project could be pushed forward by the incoming Trump administration.
Also in the area is the Red Dog mine, one of the world’s largest zinc producers. The 52-mile road that connects the mine site to the Chukchi Sea port used to ship out processed ore has already been shown to hinder caribou movement for at least part of the herd. The mine operator, Teck Resources Ltd., just won federal approval for exploratory work at what would be an expansion into a different zinc deposit, which would include an extension of the mine’s road.
There is also expanding oil development in the National Petroleum Reserve, on the eastern edge of the Western Arctic herd’s range, a planned graphite mine north of Nome on the Seward Peninsula and assorted smaller projects that are underway.
The encroaching development worries members of the Western Arctic Caribou Herd Working Group. The group has repeatedly expressed official objections to the proposed Ambler road, as well as concerns about the cumulative effects of multiple projects.
Those concerns were repeated at the December meeting.
“It seems like development is taking over. We’re living in a different time,” said Michael Stickman, a member from Nulato, an Koyukon village on the Yukon River. “We don’t want to lose our way of life.”
The Porcupine herd’s territory, in contrast, has been largely protected from development. But there are looming plans that would bring oil drilling rigs to the coastal plain of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, the place where the herd usually masses in summer to give birth to and nurture young calves.
Two congressionally mandated lease sales, one in 2021 and one held this month, failed to generate industry interest. Most of the bidding in the first sale, which resulted in no on-the-ground development, was from an Alaska state agency, the Alaska Industrial Development and Export Authority. This month’s sale attracted no bids.
However, President-elect Donald Trump has touted the refuge’s potential for producing oil, falsely claiming that it has the potential to hold more oil than Saudi Arabia. More lease sales, with more industry-favorable terms, could be held in future years in the new Trump administration.
YOU MAKE OUR WORK POSSIBLE.
I grew up greeting friends and neighbors on my walk to my neighborhood Anchorage public school, just as my kids do now. It’s an essential, and value-added, part of living in our community.
In the late 1990s, when I attended Service High School, I had amazing teachers. My AP chemistry teacher left the oil and gas industry to teach. He could have earned significantly more money in another field, but teaching was competitive enough, given pensions and compensation, that he stayed in the job he loved and gave a generation of students a solid foundation in chemistry.
Now, my kids, who are in first, third and fifth grade, face a different reality. Teachers across our state are leaving in droves. Neighborhood schools across Alaska are closing. Art and music are being combined, which is nonsensical — they are not the same and they are both valuable independently. When he was in second grade, my oldest had a cohort of more than 60 students in his grade — split between two teachers. When he enters sixth grade next year, there will be no middle school sports and he will lose out on electives. Support systems and specialists to help when kids are falling behind have been cut. I’m lucky that my children have had amazing teachers, but many excellent teachers are nearing retirement age or don’t have a pension and are pursuing other careers. What happens then?
Despite skyrocketing inflation, last year was the first time in years that our schools received a significant increase in the Base Student Allocation — and that money doesn’t begin to make up for what they have lost over the years. Even that increase had to overcome two vetoes from what a recent teacher of the year calls “possibly the most anti-public education governor in the history of Alaska.” Shockingly, my own representative, Mia Costello, despite voting for the increase, failed to join the override to support education. She has failed to explain that decision when asked.
State spending on corrections is up 54% since 2019; meanwhile, spending on education is up only 12% in the same timeframe. Schools are now working with 77% of the funding they had 15 years ago when accounting for inflation.
When we starve our public schools of funding, Alaska families leave. No one wants their child to suffer from a subpar education and the lower test scores and opportunities that come with it. A significant number of people are working in Alaska but choosing not to raise their families here.
To the elected officials who preach school “choice” but starve public schools: our family’s choice is our neighborhood school. It’s our community. It’s where our friends are. Neighborhood public schools, which are required to accept all children, should be the best option out there. Public schools should be a good, strong, viable option for communities and neighborhoods across our great state. Once, they were.
I am thankful for those in the Legislature working to solve these problems. This includes HB 374, which raises the BSA by $630, and HB 261, which would make education funding less volatile.
It breaks my heart that across the state, dedicated teachers keep showing up for our kids while being underpaid and undervalued. Underfunding our schools is also a violation of Alaska’s constitution, which requires “adequate funding so as to accord to schools the ability to provide instruction in the standards.”
Not so long ago, Alaska’s public schools were adequately funded, and they produced well-educated students and retained excellent teachers. It’s up to all of us to reach out to our elected officials and urge them to make that the case once again.
Colleen Bolling is a lifelong Alaskan and mother of three who cares deeply about Alaska’s schools.
• • •
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ANCHORAGE, Alaska — Karen Burnett spends most days in the sorting room at the Food Bank of Alaska, ensuring every donated item finds its place.
The Anchorage woman dedicates her time to sorting, packing and organizing food donations.
Finding purpose after loss
Burnett’s journey at the Food Bank of Alaska began after a personal loss. Following the death of her husband, Burnett said she found herself with time on her hands and a desire to help.
“I had a friend who had talked to me about it, and it just sounded like a good thing to be out doing,” she said.
Burnett now volunteers between 500 and 600 hours each year.
“I started, but it got to be so fun. I spent more and more time here,” Burnett added.
Understanding community need
Burnett has witnessed the growing need in the community, particularly as more families struggle to make ends meet.
“If you took a look at the pantry and saw those empty shelves, it’s hard sometimes when you know people are coming in and looking for something, for their clients, and there’s absolutely nothing in there,” Burnett said.
Her dedication has made a lasting impact on countless families.
“I just feel real involvement in a way that is appreciated,” Burnett said. “You know, people need this food. They need people to put it out for them.”
See the full story by Ariane Aramburo and John Perry.
Copyright 2025 Gray Media Group, Inc. All rights reserved.
Alaska is home to some of the most remote and quietest communities in the US, where year-round populations are often well under 3,000. Their isolation has shaped communities along fjords and glaciers, with hundreds of Alaskan communities accessible only by air or water, including Tenakee Springs on Chichagof Island and Sitka on Baranof Island. Girdwood is another tranquil spot right in the heart of the wilderness, but it is home to Alyeska Resort, for those travelers who want comfort during their trip. Tour historic fishing villages on the Kenai Peninsula and ferry-linked communities in the Inside Passage, in these quietest Alaska towns.
Girdwood
Girdwood is a mountain valley community in the Chugach Mountains and a haven for nature lovers seeking a quieter environment. Despite its size, Girdwood supports a concentrated outdoor recreation sector, including guided hikes, kayaking, flightseeing, ATV rides, and seasonal dog-sledding adventures. Only a one-hour drive from Anchorage, this small town is defined by its mountain setting and glacier-fed rivers.
One of the biggest drivers of traffic to Girdwood is Alyeska Resort, a luxury resort at the base of Mount Alyeska. The resort features alpine ski slopes in winter and meadows of wildflowers in summer. For visitors wanting to explore beyond the resort itself, Alyeska also coordinates guided excursions into nearby wilderness areas.
Girdwood also sits near the Chugach National Forest trail system, where forest hikes and wildlife viewing opportunities are widely available. Chugach is the second-largest national forest in the United States, covering 5.4 million acres and offering more than 60 trails through temperate rainforest, alpine terrain, and glacial valleys. Another scenic way to experience the area is aboard the Alaska Railroad. The railway runs through coastal and alpine landscapes and connects travelers to excursions such as Kenai Fjords cruises, Resurrection Bay wildlife tours, and other regional sightseeing trips.
Haines
Haines sits between fjords and snow-covered peaks. Its mountain-enclosed coastal setting, laid-back pace, and frequent wildlife sightings make it a notable destination for outdoor recreation. Glacier-fed waters support activities such as fishing and kayaking, while nearby trails allow hikers to explore the surrounding landscape.
Haines is home to the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, which protects roughly 48,000 acres of habitat supporting the world’s largest recorded population of bald eagles. The preserve also safeguards the salmon run and supports other wildlife, including mountain goats, moose, swans, and bears. Visitors are asked to remain in designated viewing areas to minimize disruption to wildlife.
The town also preserves a historic military site. Fort William H. Seward, built in 1902 during a border dispute period between the United States and Canada, is the last remaining Gold Rush-era military post in Alaska. Located only a ten-minute walk from downtown along the waterfront, the site includes preserved barracks, officers’ homes, and parade grounds that can typically be explored in one to two hours.
The surrounding waterways further define Haines’ landscape. Lutak Inlet and Chilkoot Lake sit at the foot of the Takshanuk Mountains and provide opportunities for boating, canoeing, kayaking, and fishing. The ten-mile drive to Chilkoot Lake features several scenic pull-offs overlooking the inlet where birds and marine life are often visible.
Ninilchik
This fishing village on the Kenai Peninsula is known for its coastal sunsets and quiet beaches. Located 180 miles south of Anchorage and 35 miles north of Homer, Ninilchik is a historic settlement and an active fishing village. A prominent local landmark is the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Chapel, an iconic Russian Orthodox church often photographed by visitors. Built in 1901, the bluff-top structure features five golden onion domes and stands beside a historic Russian Orthodox cemetery. From the site, there are sweeping views across the Cook Inlet toward volcanoes on the western horizon.
For outdoor recreation, the Ninilchik River and Cook Inlet provide fishing areas and beach access. Tide-walking and coastal fishing are common activities, and the beaches offer clear views of the volcanoes across the water.
Ninilchik also hosts Salmonfest each summer. The three-day event features more than 60 bands across four stages along with camping, food vendors, local brews, and salmon-themed artwork, while also supporting educational programming and conservation initiatives focused on Alaska’s salmon fisheries.
Sitka
The seaside community of Sitka on Baranof Island, known for its Indigenous heritage with visible Russian historical influence, is only accessible by air and sea. The town is surrounded by fjords, boreal forest, and glacial landscapes along Alaska’s Inside Passage. Marine wildlife viewing is a common activity in Sitka’s coastal waters. Whale-watching tours, sea kayaking excursions, and guided boat trips provide opportunities to see humpback whales, sea otters, and other marine species. Visitors who prefer to stay on land can visit Whale Park, where shoreline viewpoints sometimes offer glimpses of whales offshore.
One of Sitka’s most recognizable landmarks is St. Michael’s Cathedral. Constructed between 1844 and 1848, the Russian Orthodox cathedral features traditional onion domes and gold-colored crosses, reflecting Russia’s cultural presence in Alaska during the 19th century.
Another well-known site is the Alaska Raptor Center, which rehabilitates injured birds of prey before releasing them back into the wild. Located on a 17-acre campus bordering Tongass National Forest, the facility includes a large flight-training aviary where visitors can watch eagles, hawks, and owls during rehabilitation.
Petersburg
Often called “Little Norway,” Petersburg maintains strong Scandinavian cultural traditions alongside its active fishing industry. Each year, the community hosts the Little Norway Festival, celebrating Norwegian Independence Day with parades, folk dancing, traditional costumes, and food booths featuring local seafood and Norwegian dishes. Local history is also preserved at the Clausen Memorial Museum, where exhibits highlight the town’s fishing heritage through historic gear and artifacts such as a traditional Tlingit dugout canoe and the largest king salmon caught in the region.
This is another town this is only accessible by air or water. Just outside town lies LeConte Glacier, the southernmost tidewater glacier in Alaska. Located at the end of a 12-mile fjord roughly 20 miles by boat from Petersburg, the glacier can be viewed through flightseeing trips, kayaking excursions, or charter boat tours that travel through the fjord.
Tenakee Springs
Located on Chichagof Island, Tenakee Springs is accessible primarily by water or small aircraft. Its remote setting and small population contribute to a slower pace of life along the waterfront community. Despite its size, Tenakee Springs maintains two long-standing institutions that draw seasonal visitors. The first is the Hot Springs Bath House. Construction began in 1900 around the natural hot spring that originally attracted settlers, and residents and visiting boaters still gather here for communal soaking.
Tenakee Springs is also home to the Tenakee Springs Market, founded in 1899. The store serves as the town’s main supply hub and carries groceries, household items, and locally made goods. Across the street, the Tenakee Museum displays photographs and household artifacts that document daily life in the community’s early years.
The town is surrounded by Tongass National Forest, which spans roughly 17 million acres and is recognized as the largest intact temperate rainforest in the United States. The forest supports abundant wildlife, including eagles, bears, and spawning salmon.
Skagway
Skagway developed during the Klondike Gold Rush and remains closely tied to that period of frontier history. The town sits between steep mountains and coastal waterways at the northern end of the Inside Passage, where transportation routes first built for stampeders still shape the landscape.
The White Pass and Yukon Route Railway is one of Skagway’s defining attractions. Built in 1898 during the Gold Rush, the railroad climbs steep mountain passes above town. The popular White Pass Summit excursion passes landmarks such as Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point, and Dead Horse Gulch while traveling through alpine scenery.
Six blocks of downtown Skagway form a designated Historic District. Private, city, state, and federal organizations have worked together to preserve many late-1890s buildings, including former saloons, hotels, and storefronts now interpreted by Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park.
Visitors can learn more about this history at the Skagway Museum, located in the historic McCabe Building, constructed in 1899. Exhibits include historic photographs of early Skagway streets and personal belongings from stampeders who traveled the Chilkoot and White Pass trails. Documents and photographs of early life in Skagway provide visitors with a look into the town’s rich history.
Whittier
At the head of Prince William Sound, steep mountains and tidewater glaciers surround the small community of Whittier. About 90 minutes from Anchorage by car, the town serves as a gateway to the surrounding marine environment. Day cruises departing from Whittier travel through Prince William Sound and often pass tidewater glaciers such as Blackstone Glacier and Beloit Glacier. These trips frequently provide sightings of marine wildlife, including humpback whales, sea otters, and harbor seals.
Although small, Whittier has a history tied to World War II and the Cold War. A self-guided walking route highlights preserved military buildings and explains the town’s role as an ice-free port and logistics hub during those periods.
Access to Whittier is controlled by the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, the longest highway tunnel in North America at roughly two and a half miles. Built in the mid-20th century, the tunnel alternates traffic direction on a timed entry schedule and was engineered to withstand the region’s extreme weather conditions.
Alaska’s scale often draws attention, but in these smaller communities, the landscape becomes part of everyday life. Fjords, forests, and rivers shape how people travel, work, and spend their time. With small populations and limited development, these towns maintain a slower pace that stands apart from busier destinations.
For travelers hoping to experience a quieter side of Alaska, these communities offer something increasingly rare: space, quiet, and a close connection to the surrounding environment. Many also preserve historic districts, cultural traditions, and working waterfronts that continue to define local life.
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