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A visit to Dutch Harbor, built for fishing, is an opportunity to soak up its distinct history

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A visit to Dutch Harbor, built for fishing, is an opportunity to soak up its distinct history


“Good bye to my lady, good bye to dry ground.

I’m off to a place where the place where the crab can be found.

Raise your glass high boys, you’re drinkin’ on me,

I’m off to Dutch Harbor on the cold Bering Sea.”

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— Hobo Jim, “Off to Dutch Harbor”

Fishing is the front door to Unalaska and the Port of Dutch Harbor, located almost 800 miles southwest of Anchorage on the Aleutian Chain.

Most people who come to Unalaska are arriving to work in the processing plants, or on the fishing boats that Hobo Jim sings about.

But Unalaska’s first settlers, the Unangan people, have called the island home for 10,000 years.

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Before the crab and pollock fisheries, Russian explorers arrived in the 18th century to harvest fur seals. In 1942, Japanese planes bombed Dutch Harbor — and World War II brought massive changes to the Aleutian Islands.

On final approach to the airport, two separate container ship ports are visible. Empty shipping containers are stacked high all around the huge cranes and cold-storage buildings.

Right now, the community is getting ready for “B Season,” when giant ships drag the ocean floor for pollock. Once it’s processed and frozen, it’s packed into the waiting containers, loaded onto the ships — and sent to market.

The “B Season” pollock fishery helps push the Port of Dutch Harbor to the top of the list of fishing ports in the U.S.

To service this giant fishing fleet, the community of Unalaska hosts mechanics, fabricators, underwater divers, stores and marine supply shops of all kinds.

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Giant seafood companies like Unisea, Trident and Westward have large dock facilities and processing plants. Unisea is constructing a new, multimillion-dollar processing plant to speed the delivery of fish around the world.

The massive fishing industry hums along 24 hours a day. But visitors to the island can learn about the history and culture of all those who came before and have left their mark on this community of 4,000 people.

Learn about the Unangan people at the Museum of the Aleutians. As soon as you enter, you’ll see the big kayak frame. On display is a one-person hunting boat. But there also were boats made for two, three or more people for trade and hunting excursions.

The museum portrays the life of the Unangan, which includes information and models of the birds, plants, sea lions, otters and whales in the area.

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The world changed for the Unangan when the Russians arrived in the 1700s. The explorers, including Vitus Bering, were accompanied by naturalists, scientists and Russian Orthodox priests.

Detailed information on the trading, settlements and integration of the Russians is available at the museum and the city’s new library. But the most impressive remnant of the Russian period is the Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of our Lord.

The cathedral is located right on the water in the middle of town. It’s one of the most-photographed icons of Unalaska.

Call ahead to the Unalaska Visitors Bureau to arrange for a tour of the inside of the cathedral, as it’s not always open to visitors.

Inside the cathedral are icons from the 18th century, as well as new icons of Alaskan saints. Father Ioasaph, the resident priest, patiently described how looking at icons is like gazing into heaven. “Each icon tells a story,” he said.

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Even before World War II started, construction had started to fortify the Aleutian Islands against potential attacks in 1940.

The buildup continued as the U.S. entered the war when Pearl Harbor was bombed on Dec. 7, 1941. But the war came to Unalaska when Japanese bombers struck on Jun. 3, 1942.

The Museum of the Aleutians has a comprehensive gallery on the war years, including the forced evacuation of Aleutian Islanders to internment camps in Southeast Alaska.

After the war ended, many communities had been abandoned or destroyed. Many islanders died while in the camps — and some died because they were taken prisoner by the Japanese (in Attu).

Right next to the airport terminal building, there’s a visitor center for the Aleutian World War II National Historic Area. There are exhibits on the Aleutian campaign, as well as a timeline showing the evacuation and internment of the Unangan people.

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Upstairs on the second floor is a reconstructed radio room, complete with equipment from the 1940s. The room has a wrap-around view of the airport runway and served as an important weather forecasting station for pilots and ship captains.

The visitor center and the airport sit at the base of Mt. Ballyhoo, which was home to Fort Schwatka during the war. Hike up the road to the summit on the back side of Mt. Ballyhoo to see some of the old battlements. Here, soldiers kept a vigilant watch for enemy ships and planes. At sea level, anti-submarine nets were strung across the narrow bays.

Four important periods are on display in Unalaska: the time of the Unangan people, the impact of the Russian explorers and traders, World War II and the Aleutian Campaign and the modern-day fishing industry.

To make the trek to Unalaska, consider taking the Alaska Marine Highway from Homer. Sail on the Tustumena first to Kodiak, calling at Port Lions, Sand Point, Cold Bay, False Pass and a couple of other communities on the way to Unalaska. The one-way ticket is $411. There aren’t any cabins available, so travelers can bring their sleeping bags and camp on the deck under the solarium.

There are five remaining dates for the summer: June 13, July 11, Aug. 12, Sept. 5 and Sept. 19. The Tustumena arrives about four days later.

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After arriving in Unalaska, check out the sites, the trails and the museums. Spend the night at the Grand Aleutian Hotel. It’s the only hotel in town, although there are some Airbnb listings.

The Grand Aleutian is owned by seafood giant Unisea and hosts a sumptuous seafood buffet each Wednesday evening. I think they should rename it the “King Crab Buffet,” since everyone was lining up by the giant basket of crab legs!

Across the parking lot from the Grand Aleutian is the “Norvegian Rat Saloon” which is a favorite with the “Deadliest Catch” crew. Fans of the show will recognize many in-town landmarks and boats — if they happen to be in the harbor.

Fly back to Anchorage on Aleutian Airways or Ravn Alaska. You can use your Alaska Air miles on Ravn Alaska, which flies the Dash 8 (40,000 miles one-way). Aleutian Airways flies a faster plane, the Saab 2000. In mid-July, ticket prices range from $719-$749 one-way.

Unalaska is built for fishing. But the area has a long history of sustaining its original people, the Unangan. The earth-shaking events of Russian contact and World War II are well-documented for the curious visitor.

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The morning I left, it was about 55 degrees. The sky was blue. There was no wind. It was beautiful. But for my trip “Off to Dutch Harbor” I packed my Xtratufs, insulated rain pants, a waterproof jacket, gloves and a hat. Although I wasn’t going on a boat, preparation is important.





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Alaska

Nearly 70 years ago, the world’s first satellite took flight. Three Alaska scientists were among the first North Americans to spot it.

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Nearly 70 years ago, the world’s first satellite took flight. Three Alaska scientists were among the first North Americans to spot it.


On any clear, dark night you can see them, gliding through the sky and reflecting sunlight from the other side of the world. Manmade satellites now orbit our planet by the thousands, and it’s hard to stargaze without seeing one.

The inky black upper atmosphere was less busy 68 years ago, when a few young scientists stepped out of a trailer near Fairbanks to look into the cold October sky. Gazing upward, they saw the moving dot that started it all, the Russian-launched Sputnik 1.

Those Alaskans, working for the Geophysical Institute at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, were the first North American scientists to see the satellite, which was the size and shape of a basketball and, at 180 pounds, weighed about as much as a point guard.

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The Alaska researchers studied radio astronomy at the campus in Fairbanks. They had their own tracking station in a clearing in the forest on the northern portion of university land. This station, set up to study the aurora and other features of the upper atmosphere, enabled the scientists to be ready when a reporter called the institute with news of the Russians’ secret launch of the world’s first manmade satellite.

Within a half-hour of that call, an official with the Naval Research Laboratory in Washington, D.C., called Geophysical Institute Deputy Director C. Gordon Little with radio frequencies that Sputnik emitted.

“The scientists at the Institute poured out of their offices like stirred-up bees,” wrote a reporter for the Farthest North Collegian, the UAF campus newspaper.

Crowded into a trailer full of equipment about a mile north of their offices, the scientists received the radio beep-beep-beep from Sputnik and were able to calculate its orbit. They figured it would be visible in the northwestern sky at about 5 a.m. the next day.

On that morning, three of them stepped outside the trailer to see what Little described as “a bright star-like object moving in a slow, graceful curve across the sky like a very slow shooting star.”

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For the record, scientists may not have been the first Alaskans to see Sputnik. In a 1977 article, the founder of this column, T. Neil Davis, described how his neighbor, Dexter Stegemeyer, said he had seen a strange moving star come up out of the west as he was sitting in his outhouse. Though Stegemeyer didn’t know what he saw until he spoke with Davis, his sighting was a bit earlier than the scientists’.

The New York Times’ Oct. 7, 1957 edition included a front-page headline of “SATELLITE SEEN IN ALASKA,” and Sputnik caused a big fuss all over the country. People wondered about the implications of the Soviet object looping over America every 98 minutes. Within a year, Congress voted to create NASA.

Fears about Sputnik evaporated as three months later the U.S. launched its own satellite, Explorer 1, and eventually took the lead in the race for space.

Almost 70 later, satellites are part of everyday life. The next time you see a satellite streaking through the night sky, remember the first scientist on this continent to see one was standing in Alaska. And the first non-scientist to see a satellite in North America was sitting in Alaska.





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Western Alaska storm and southerly flow drives warmth back into the state

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Western Alaska storm and southerly flow drives warmth back into the state


ANCHORAGE, Alaska (KTUU) – Gusty winds and heavy snow has begun to spread into Western and Southwest Alaska, with a surge of warmer air. Temperatures in Southwest Alaska is already 10 to 35 degrees warmer than yesterday morning. This warmth will spread across the rest of the state through the weekend, with some of the most pronounced warmth along the Slope. We’ll see many areas this weekend into next week remaining well-above average.

SOUTHCENTRAL:

Temperatures are slowly warming across Southcentral, with many areas seeing cloud coverage increasing. While we could see some peeks of sunshine today, most locations will see mostly cloudy conditions. While we can’t rule out light flurries for inland locations, most of the precipitation today will occur near the coast. Snow looks to be the primary precipitation type, although later this evening a transition to rain or wintry mix will occur. This comes as temperatures quickly warm across Southcentral.

We’ll see highs today in the upper 20s and lower 30s for inland areas, while coastal regions warm into the 30s and 40s. The southerly flow aloft will remain with us for several days, pumping in the warmth and moisture. As a result, Kodiak could see over an inch of rain today, with gusty winds.

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While most of the precipitation this weekend remains near the coast, inland areas will see the best chance for wintry mix Sunday into Monday. Little to no accumulation is expected.

The key takeaways for this weekend, is snow transitioning to rain, with some gusty winds likely for parts of Southcentral this weekend.

SOUTHEAST:

Another fairly quiet day is expected across Southeast today, outside of some light snow near Yakutat. We’ll see a mix of sun and clouds with temperatures remaining on the cooler side. Parts of the Northern Panhandle may stay in the upper 20s today. The stretch of quiet weather will stay with us through the first half of Saturday, followed by an increase in precipitation and winds. This upcoming system may bring some heavy snowfall to Southeast, so be prepared for that potential this weekend. Temperatures warm into next week, back into the upper 30s and lower 40s for many areas.

INTERIOR:

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While temperatures this morning have bottomed out as low as -30 near Fort Yukon, temperatures will warm into the weekend. A wind advisory for the Alaska Range goes into effect at 9 Friday morning, where winds up to 60 mph will warm the Interior. Temperatures today for many locations will warm into the single digits, with some of the greatest warming arriving Saturday through next week. It’s likely we’ll spend most of next week with temperatures in the 20s and 30s, with the warmest locations near the Alaska Range. While we will largely stay dry, there is a chance for some light snow arriving Sunday night into Monday.

SLOPE/WESTERN ALASKA:

Temperatures will remain slightly above average for parts of the Slope today, with warming winds to build into the Slope this weekend. This comes as our area of low pressure in the Bering Sea continues to move farther north. Be prepared for gusty easterly winds along the Slope, leading to blowing snow and reduced visibility. We’ll see temperatures quickly warm well above average, with highs climbing into the 20s and 30s along the Slope into next week. While some snow is possible through the weekend, the heaviest activity will occur for the Brooks Range. We’ll see the potential for 4 to 12 inches of snowfall, with the highest amounts occurring along the southern slopes of the Brooks Range near Kobuk Valley. Winds could gusts as high as 45 mph, leading to greatly reduced visibility.

Heavy snow is impacting Western and Southwest Alaska this morning, with winds gusting up to 50 mph. Numerous winter weather alerts, as well as a coastal flood advisory is in effect. The heaviest snow will fall for the Seward Peninsula and east of Norton Sound, where up to a foot or more of snow is to be expected. The heaviest amounts will fall today, with the activity set to lighten up through Sunday. In addition to the snow, gusty winds will lead to areas of blowing snow. Visibility could be reduced down to less than half a mile at times. As southerly flow continues to pump in warmth, we’ll see a transition from snow to rain later today into Saturday for parts of Southwest Alaska.

ALEUTIANS:

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Gusty winds and heavy rain will fall through the Aleutians today, where up to .75″ of rain is possible. As the area of low pressure moves north, we’ll see a new low form just south of the Eastern Aleutians. This will lead to additional rain and winds into the weekend. Winds could gusts upwards of 50 mph through the Eastern Aleutians and through the Alaska Peninsula. With ridging to our east, more rain and winds remain with us into early next week. There is the potential that the Pribilof Islands see a return to snow Sunday, as colder air moves into the Bering Sea.

OUTLOOK AHEAD:

Well above average warmth will stay with us as we close out January. While one more short-lived cold snap is possible, we may have to wait until February before we tap into warmer conditions. Temperatures through the close of January will keep average monthly temperatures 5 to 12 degrees above average for much of the state. The overall trend still favors a wetter pattern, although with warmer weather the southern parts of the state will favor more rain or a mixed bag of precipitation.

Have a wonderful and safe holiday weekend.

See a spelling or grammar error? Report it to web@ktuu.com

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Alaska governor, ally of Trump, will keep flags at full-staff for Inauguration Day • Alaska Beacon

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Alaska governor, ally of Trump, will keep flags at full-staff for Inauguration Day • Alaska Beacon


Alaska will join several other Republican-led states by keeping flags at full-staff on Inauguration Day despite the national period of mourning following President Jimmy Carter’s death last month.

Gov. Mike Dunleavy announced his decision, which breaks prior precedent, in a statement on Thursday. It applies only to flags on state property. Flags on federal property are expected to remain at half-staff.

Flags on state property will be returned to half-staff after Inauguration Day for the remainder of the mourning period.

The governors of Indiana, Idaho, Iowa, Texas, Florida, Tennessee, Oklahoma, North Dakota, Nebraska, Montana and Alabama, among others, have announced similar moves. 

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U.S. Speaker of the House Mike Johnson, a Republican from Louisiana, said on Tuesday that flags at the U.S. Capitol would remain at full-staff on Inauguration Day. 

Their actions follow a statement from President-elect Donald Trump, who said in a Jan. 3 social media post that Democrats would be “giddy” to have flags lowered during his inauguration, adding, “Nobody wants to see this, and no American can be happy about it. Let’s see how it plays out.”

Dunleavy is seen as a friend of the incoming president and has met with him multiple times over the past year. Dunleavy and 21 other Republican governors visited Trump last week in Florida at an event that Trump described as “a love fest.”

Since 1954, flags have been lowered to half-staff during a federally prescribed 30-day mourning period following presidential deaths. In 1973, the second inauguration of President Richard Nixon took place during the mourning period that followed the death of President Harry Truman. 

Then-Gov. Bill Egan made no exceptions for Alaska, contemporary news accounts show, and no exception was made for Nixon’s inauguration in Washington, D.C., either. 

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A spokesperson for Dunleavy’s office said the new precedent is designed to be a balance between honoring the ongoing mourning period for former President Jimmy Carter and recognizing the importance of the peaceful transition of power during the presidential inauguration. 

“Temporarily raising the flags to full-staff for the inauguration underscores the significance of this democratic tradition, while returning them to half-staff afterward ensures continued respect for President Carter’s legacy,” the spokesperson said.

GET THE MORNING HEADLINES.

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