Washington, D.C
Is DC home to America's liveliest cemetery?
Welcome to a spot in Southeast D.C. where you can hang out with your friends, have a cup of coffee, watch some live theater … and where 70,000 people have chosen to make their eternal resting place.
We’re wondering: Could historic Congressional Cemetery be America’s liveliest cemetery?
“We are still an active cemetery, so we’re actually still selling plots and burying people, as well as having movie nights, immersive theater,” said Jackie Spainhour, president of Congressional Cemetery. “We’re a certified 5K course. We have a writing group; we have a book club. Everything you can think of, we have tried here.”
They call it D.C.’s greatest undertaking.
In addition to its 70,000 permanent residents, the cemetery welcomed 10,000 guests to its events last year alone.
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Those events include Soul Strolls, their immersive history theater experience and guided-lantern tour.
“We have actors actually portraying the people buried here, and we usually have these thematic stories that connect them,” Director of Programming AJ Orlikoff said. “This year it blew me away. We sold out over 1,600 tickets for four nights of the event in two and a half days. Ultimately, Soul Strolls is a fun, spooky time with your friends. But you know, it’s a fun, spooky history time with your friends.”
Permanent residents include some big names from local — and national — history
Speaking of history: Cemetery residents include former D.C. Mayor Marion Barry, J. Edgar Hoover, composer John Philip Sousa and Civil War-era photographer Mathew Brady.
“I would say he’s the father of photojournalism,” Docent of the Year Rick Liebling said.
Way before selfies at events, Brady’s lens snapped Frederick Douglass, Harriet Tubman, Sojourner Truth and President Abraham Lincoln.

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“Brady took pictures of Lincoln and made him look presidential, and Lincoln himself said, ‘Brady is the one who got me the presidency’,” Liebling told us.
Liebling also shared that he plans for Congressional to be his final resting place, too.
“But I’m comfortable knowing that there’s dogs here, and because there’s dogs here, that means people will actually walk near or around where I’m going to be. I find that somewhat comforting,” he said.
Dogs were the first to bring life back to Congressional Cemetery
Before interactive theater and movie nights and book clubs, it was dogs that brought life back to the cemetery.
“Well, I will tell you, way back around 1988 or so, it was not a real pleasant, comfortable place to come,” said Victor Romero, one of the founding members of Congressional Cemetery’s K9 Corps. “I mean, aside from the stones and the markers themselves being in various states of disrepair….”
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There were also reports of illegal activities — not the welcoming place visitors know these days.
“And we brought more life to corners of the cemetery that people had not been to in ages,” Romero said. “This is indeed the liveliest place in Washington, D.C.”
Meet a death doula (and try not to freak out)
Laura Lyster-Mensh said people usually get unsettled when she tells them what she does.
“Then they meet me and they chill out a little, but yeah, no, it sounds scary, but it’s not,” said Lyster-Mensh, the cemetery’s death doula in residence. “It’s actually about living, not dying, to do things like death cafés.”
Think of Death Café as maybe getting a latte and talking about mortality.
“We do, of course, have people here with terminal illnesses who are dying and know that their their time is very finite, but most people are coming to be in groups to talk about this relationship with death, and they’re often young,” Lyster-Mensh said. “Some come on dates.”

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“I have much optimism for these couples,” she added, laughing.
‘Every cemetery has its own kind of brand, and this is ours’
Other historic cemeteries such as Laurel Hill in Philadelphia, Green-wood in Brooklyn and Oakland in Atlanta also look toward the living for a breath of fresh air.
“We’re really on the cusp of a real cultural transformation of cemeteries as spaces, and they really are spaces for the living now, and that entails everything that the living love to do,” Orlikoff said.
But do people ever feel like a lively scene at a cemetery is too disrespectful toward the dead?
“Yeah, we get that every once in a while, people who have different cultural traditions and maybe just don’t understand,” Spainhour said. “We’re very transparent that this may not be the space for you, if this isn’t what you like. You know, every cemetery has its own kind of brand, and this is ours.”
Washington, D.C
New bus service to begin soon between Hampton Roads and Washington, D.C.
The United States military carried out a “large scale” strike inside the nation of Venezuela early Saturday morning, in addition to capturing Venezuelan President Nicolas Maduro and his wife, who were flown out of the country.
https://www.wavy.com/news/national/virginia-leaders-speak-out-after-u-s-military-strike-on-venezuela/
Washington, D.C
No one hurt in Northwest DC row house fire
WASHINGTON (DC News Now) — Smoke was seen billowing in a Northwest D.C. neighborhood Sunday afternoon after a row house caught fire, prompting a large presence of first responders.
In a post on the X platform just after 12:40 p.m., the DC Fire and EMS Department said crews were responding to a box alarm at a row house in the 2100 block of 13th Street NW. There, firefighters found smoke coming from the top of three attached row houses.
Crews determined that the flames were coming from the attic of one of the three-story row homes, but that it was at risk of spreading to both adjacent homes. As a result, firefighters upgraded the response to a two-alarm fire, aggressively attacking the flames from the inside.
Officials noted that firefighters were able to extinguish the blaze, which involved the entire attic, and that it only spread to one of the attached row houses.
No injuries were reported; however, officials were working to learn how many people would be displaced.
The cause of the fire remains under investigation.
Washington, D.C
What’s the best meal Keith Duggan can get for €120 in Washington?
Every day this week, our foreign correspondents will accept the challenge of finding the best meal possible in their city for the equivalent of €120. First, Keith Duggan introduces us to dinner in a Washington bookshop.
You won’t live the high life in Washington, DC on a dining budget of €120, but nor will you starve.
The return of Donald Trump in January this year coincided with a prolonged winter blast of snow and the sense of an entirely new era in the city.
Within weeks, Butterworth’s, on Capitol Hill, began appearing in news and magazine articles as a popular meeting spot among the ascendant Maga set – it was the restaurant of choice for Steve Bannon when he participated in the “Lunch with the FT” feature, cheerfully assuring readers that Trump would run for a third term.
Aside from attracting Maga-ites it has drawn rave reviews for an unfussy reimagining of standard bistro favourites and terrific staff. They’ll happily let you in the door in Butterworth’s with your modest budget. But it won’t take them long to serve you.
You could book an evening dinner table, split the crispy cauliflower with miso caramel ($18), have mains of dry-aged duck breast with kale and sauce verjus ($37) or lamb heart Bolognese ($29, and a Maga fave, one imagines), definitely forsake the cocktail menu and have a couple of glasses of Sancerre – and still leave a standard tip of at least 20 per cent.
But a better option, on this budget, would be to take yourself off to one of Washington’s venerable old haunts, Kramers. It’s essentially a wonderful independent bookshop masquerading as both a bar and cafe/restaurant that has been a fixture on Connecticut Avenue, just above the famous green and water fountain on Dupont Circle, since the 1940s.
It was where the concept of the bookshop cafe originated in the United States and for a time, in the boozier decades, it remained open all night.
Now, like much of Washington, the shutters come down early.
Celebrated past visitors include Maya Angelou and Barack Obama, but the place hit national headlines in 1998 when the owner, Bill Kramer, fought a court petition from independent counsel Kenneth Starr to have the bookshop reveal the titles of the books bought by one of its customers, Monica Lewinsky.
[ Patrick Freyne’s quest for the best Christmas sandwich in Dublin: ‘I give it five Santas out of five’Opens in new window ]
It’s a hugely popular weekend brunch location, particularly when it’s still warm enough to sit outside. Unsuspecting first-time visitors often move from the poetry section through a narrow doorway and in to the darkened bar, mirroring the pathway of many an actual poet. The bar is low-lit, even during the day. The restaurant is at the rear.
Decor is minimalist, to put it politely, but the menu is eclectic and everything is good. Steak and eggs ($29) and Kramers Benedict ($22) are brunch staples. For dinner, the cream of crab soup ($14) is served with grilled ciabatta and the crispy Brussels sprouts ($12), with lemon, parmesan and a side of ranch dressing, do much to rehab the reputation of that maligned veg.
Pizzas and those ginormous American sandwiches also feature, but highlights on the mains are blackened salmon ($25) and the shrimp and grits with Andouille sausage in a spicy tomato sauce ($22). It’s the sort of place that invites parking of calorific anxieties at the door.
The Triple Chocolate Devil’s Food Cake ($12) is the best reason to visit Kramers, and possibly Washington itself. It’s an obscenity, in the best sense.
The wine list is short and modestly priced: a bottle of the (only) Sauvignon Blanc is $35. So that’s a three-course meal for two for $120 (if you skip the caffeine) – a bill which would suggest a tip of around $30. And you might even pick up a book. kramers.com
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