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This river cruise made the American Deep South feel all-inclusive

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This river cruise made the American Deep South feel all-inclusive


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  • The Viking Mississippi offers cruises along the Mississippi River, exploring cities like Natchez, Vicksburg, and Greenville.
  • Onboard experiences reflect the region’s culture with local music, cuisine, and historical lectures.
  • Fares are largely inclusive, covering meals, drinks, Wi-Fi, and at least one shore excursion per port.

During my first visit to Natchez, Mississippi, I covered nearly 200 years of history in a few hours.

A shore excursion on my nearly week-long cruise aboard Viking Mississippi took me from Magnolia Hall, an 1858 Greek Revival and Italianate mansion, to the Stratton Chapel Gallery – home to photographs of Natchez dating back to the mid-1800s – behind First Presbyterian Church. Our shuttle bus then stopped by the Proud to Take a Stand monument, honoring residents who were incarcerated following a Civil Rights demonstration, before dropping my tour group back at the bank of the Mississippi River – and I still had an entire afternoon to explore.

The tour was one of several complimentary excursions I took during my early December sailing. The ship, which is Viking’s only river vessel based in the U.S., offers an easy and almost entirely inclusive way for guests to see the American South. Here’s what to know.

Where does Viking Mississippi go?

My cruise – the eight-day Mississippi Delta Explorer itinerary – traveled from New Orleans and ended in Memphis, Tennessee (though I boarded late in St. Francisville, Louisiana). I spent my days exploring small cities along the way, both on my own and under the tutelage of knowledgeable guides at each stop.

During my free time in Natchez, I trekked up a hill and through town to Wishes Sweets & Eats, where I snagged one of the last snickerdoodles before perching on a bench along the Natchez Bluff Walking Trail to enjoy views of the river (and Louisiana across the water).

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The following day in Vicksburg, low water required the ship to stop at an alternate landing outside of town. The river’s fluctuating levels can impede cruise ships, but Viking Mississippi has a flat bottom that allows it to keep moving even when the river is shallow.

I hopped on a complimentary Viking coach for a roughly 20-minute ride to browse the shops on Washington Street. On a fairly sunny, 58-degree day, I grabbed a latte at Highway 61 Coffeehouse and browsed Lorelei Books, which had exposed brick and a large selection of regional titles, from Mark Twain’s “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer” to “Rising Tide” by John M. Barry, which details the Great Mississippi Flood of 1927.

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The city is also home to the Vicksburg Civil War Museum and the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum (the soda was first bottled in Vicksburg in 1894), which guests can visit during their stop. After returning to the ship for lunch, I boarded another shuttle for an excursion to Vicksburg National Military Park, the site of a key battle during the Civil War, where a guide detailed the events via loudspeaker.

Before arriving in Memphis, we made one last stop in Greenville. There, singer-songwriter and Mississippi Music and Culture Ambassador Steve Azar shared his love of his hometown, hosting a banquet-style concert at E.E. Bass Cultural Arts Center. The event featured a catered lunch of crispy hush puppies, catfish, smoked chicken and more – with Mississippi Sherin Sauce on the table, while Azar and others told stories between songs. The building also housed a 1901 Armitage Herschell Carousel, which guests could ride after the show.

What is the ship like?

The 386-guest ship was purpose-built for the region, evident in its design. A mural at the forward stairs displays passages from “Adventures of Huckleberry Finn,” for example, and the ceiling of the central Living Room mimics the frets on a guitar in a nod to the area’s musical heritage (married with the signature Scandinavian look of Viking’s other ships).

Fittingly, there was live music onboard. Memphis-based musician, Memphis Jones – an apt moniker – welcomed passengers to Tennessee with two nights of shows, featuring his take on hits from Carl Perkins, Johnny Cash and more. There was also a communal record player, allowing guests to spin records from artists such as Elvis Presley and Robert Pete Williams.

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There was plenty of other onboard programming, including trivia, cooking and cocktail demonstrations, and seminars related to the visited regions. A lecture on slavery and Mississippi’s efforts to secede from the Union was particularly impactful.

The cuisine also reflects the ship’s destination. On cruises that start out in New Orleans, guests can expect to see more French, Cajun and Creole fare, while barbecue is likely to be on offer as the vessel nears Memphis.

I enjoyed every meal I had onboard and developed a particular fondness for The Grill on Deck 5, an outdoor venue open for lunch and dinner with made-to-order steaks, seafood and more. I visited several times and the burger – juicy and well-seasoned – was the best one I’ve had in recent memory. The pumpkin praline cheesecake from the adjacent River Café was another highlight.

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Despite its relatively small size, the ship – which began sailing in 2022 – felt spacious with wide hallways and luxurious touches, such as complimentary espresso machines and heated bathroom floors in the cabins. The service felt pampering, too: When I arrived with a large suitcase, a crew member offered me a golf cart ride down a steep hill to board the ship. Another day, when guests returned to the vessel from an outing, the staff had mulled wine waiting for us.

How much do Viking Mississippi cruises cost?

Viking Mississippi’s available cruises – ranging from eight to 22 days long – currently start at $3,499 per person based on double occupancy, according to the cruise line’s website. The fares cover lodging; meals on board; drinks such as house wines, beer and soft drinks; at least one shore excursion in each port; Wi-Fi; entertainment and more.

I grew up in Middle Tennessee, just three hours from Memphis, but by the morning of disembarkation, I felt like I’d undergone a five-night history and culture immersion session – with comfortable beds and really good cocktails. I learned something new every day of the cruise, and found myself wondering why it took me so long to make the trip.

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The reporter on this story received access to this event from Viking. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of content.

Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at ndiller@usatoday.com.



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Mississippi

Portrait of former MS Speaker Philip Gunn added to House gallery

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Portrait of former MS Speaker Philip Gunn added to House gallery


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  • A portrait of former Mississippi House Speaker Philip Gunn was unveiled at the state Capitol.
  • Gunn was the first Republican Speaker in Mississippi in over 130 years, serving from 2012 to 2023.
  • The portrait, painted by Jason Bouldin, includes details like the new state flag, which Gunn championed.

Another portrait of a Mississippi Speaker of the House is set to grace the walls of the chamber.

More than 200 family members, legislators and Capitol staff came together March 25 to see the new portrait of former Speaker Philip Gunn. Gunn, who became the first Republican to occupy the position in more than 130 years when he was elected in 2012, served five terms in the body before opting not to seek re-election in 2023.

Gunn’s portrait is the sixth of the speaker series, and it was painted by Oxford-based artist Jason Bouldin, who also contributed the portrait of Gunn’s predecessor, former Speaker Billy McCoy. Bouldin and his father, Marshall Bouldin III, painted all six of the Speaker of the House portraits hanging in the Capitol.

“Painting contains an inherent challenge for us as the viewer,” Bouldin said at the portrait unveiling ceremony. “By its very nature, it lacks words. That doesn’t mean that paintings are necessarily silent.”

Bouldin brought viewers’ eyes to details in the painting, like the new Mississippi state flag, which Gunn led efforts to change in 2020, emblazoned in the corner. He placed Gunn on a simple, armless chair, he pointed out, the same chair that House junior pages use.

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“I wanted this portrait to capture him as more of a person than as a speaker,” Bouldin said. “The goal for any portrait is not simply to look like somebody… That’s a relatively easy thing to do. It’s more important to get the feelings of a person.”

Gunn, he said, was surprised when Bouldin requested a day and a half to paint his portrait.

“I said, ‘My God, what are we going to do for a day and a half? Just take a picture and go paint,’” Gunn recounted at the ceremony. “But no, he wanted to get to know me and Lisa (Gunn’s wife). He wanted to find out what our values are and who I am as a person.”

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Gunn thanked countless people in his speech, including his family, former colleagues in the House and Gov. Tate Reeves, who sat alongside him during the ceremony. He singled out the members of the Senate in attendance, emphasizing the importance of cooperation between the chambers to turn bills into laws.

He also touted what he considered the biggest successes of his tenure as speaker, including the change of the state flag and the legislation that led to the reversal of Roe v. Wade.

“Brighter days are ahead for Mississippi, but that bright future is not guaranteed,” he told the audience. “It took leadership for us to get here, and it’s going to take leadership for us to get there. I want to be a part of that.”

Bea Anhuci is the state government reporter for the Clarion Ledger. She has covered the Mississippi state legislature, and the people who make it run, since the start of the session. Email her at banhuci@usatodayco.com.

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Mississippi lawmakers face deadline on pharmacy benefit manager reform

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Mississippi lawmakers face deadline on pharmacy benefit manager reform


JACKSON, Miss. (WLBT) – Independent pharmacists packed the State Capitol Tuesday, urging lawmakers to take action on pharmacy benefit manager reform before Thursday’s deadline.

Pharmacists say the next step for House Bill 1665 could decide whether some local pharmacies can stay open.

Pharmacy benefit managers are the middlemen between pharmacies and insurance companies.

“You’ve been dealing with these folks since they were babies. I mean, it’s about patient care. It’s not just about the pharmacies. I mean, we just need to be paid well enough that we can stay in business to support these people,” said Joe Mohamed, president of the Mississippi Independent Pharmacy Association.

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Business groups oppose Senate changes

Business groups are pushing back against a dispensing fee added by the Senate.

They claim the fee could raise costs for employers and employees. Pharmacists argue other states have done the same without increasing costs.

“States all around us have done this exact same thing… they haven’t raised costs,” pharmacist Fair Jones said.

Sen. Jeremy England said it’s a complex issue, but he hopes lawmakers will figure it out.

“A lot of our legislators have issue fatigue with this. We want to get something done, like get it to the finish line. We’ve talked about this. We’re ready to have it done,” England said.

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England is among those who didn’t think the dispensing fee should have been added in the Senate version.

“It ends up being a big cost when you have a big employer…with thousands and tens of thousands of employees,” he said.

White House weighs in

In an unusual move, the White House sent a memo last week asking the House not to concur with the Senate changes.

The memo said the changes risk undermining key administration priorities, particularly those related to expanding access to affordable prescriptions.

Rep. Stacey Hobgood Wilkes questioned the memo’s validity.

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“I give that letter zero credibility,” she said. Hobgood Wilkes said she worries history may repeat itself.

“If it goes to conference, with everything in me, I believe the bill is dead,” she said.

Pharmacists are making their final pleas for the House to concur with the Senate version.

“It is enough to keep my pharmacies from closing, yes, and probably most everybody behind me too,” Mohamed said.

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How Elon Musk’s Mississippi power plant is affecting residents 

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How Elon Musk’s Mississippi power plant is affecting residents 


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