8am: Breakfast at Jimmy’s

On a strip that includes the 1950s Vagabond Hotel, this diner on Biscayne Boulevard doesn’t look like much on first glance. But this local favourite is the original neighbourhood greasy spoon, filled with leatherette booths that stick to bare legs. Here, oversized portions of American classics — including grits, homefried potatoes, eggs and corned beef hash — are served on multiple plates. There’s unlimited coffee, too.

10am: Explore Morningside

Walk off any overindulgence on the shady streets of the Morningside neighbourhood, a mile south. Look out for the architectural tributes to Bauhaus, art deco and Mediterranean Modern, in buildings with tell-tale turrets and Spanish roofs, or explore Morningside Park, which runs beside the bay with a few tiny coconut-littered beaches. A ramshackle boathouse rents kayaks and paddleboards here from 10am.

12.30pm: Tour the Design District

Stroll south into the one-time warehouse district, which developers have slowly transformed into the equivalent of Times Square for the artistic. Public sculptures installed here range from the larger-than-life — like the 10ft-tall crushed solo cup — to the interactive, with an adult-sized swing set painted mint green.

1.30pm: Lunch at Elastika

The Moore is one of multiple members’ clubs that now call the disused furniture showrooms of the Design District home. Its restaurant, Elastika is open to the public — try the kingfish crudo with fermented farro, local kohlrabi and cucumber agua chile. The 1920s atrium, with its moss-green banquettes and potted palms, sits under a giant sculpture by Zaha Hadid that takes the form of an alien-looking white web.

3.30pm: Get arty in South Beach

Hop in a taxi to cross the bay en route to historic Collins Avenue, which acts as the gateway to South Beach. It begins at The Bass, with its thorough collection of contemporary art installed in a former art deco library, flanked by swaying coconut palms. These days, it provides a platform for bold new acquisitions from young Latino artists alongside donations from Miami’s rich and famous.

5pm: Stroll Ocean Drive

Track the passage of time in the city with a wander along Ocean Drive, which has been preserved from its mid-century heyday. Join one of the dedicated tours of its white-stucco facades with Miami’s Design Preservation League, and keep an eye out for Casa Casuarina, the baroque manor that was once occupied by designer Gianni Versace before his murder here on the front steps. For sunset, you’ll find the best spot in South Pointe Park with its painted lighthouse.

8pm: Dinner at Doce Provisions

Back across the bay, in Little Havana, this popular taco joint is your best spot for dinner. If you haven’t managed to score a table, fear not: the chefs have perfected a portable asado bun, a bit like a plump taco filled with pork and pineapple confit, served with croquettes stuffed with cheese and sticky guava marmalade.

9pm: Party at Ball & Chain

This 1930s location on 8th Street made its name by attracting theatre-goers who still had energy to burn. Over the decades, people started to come from further afield for its burlesque shows and musical line-up — with a late 5am finish. Practically all that’s changed today is the sound system and the curfew — it’s a more reasonable 3am now. Patrons still dress for dancing, including on-leave sailors.