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Neiman Marcus purchase by Saks parent creates high anxiety in Dallas fashion world

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Neiman Marcus purchase by Saks parent creates high anxiety in Dallas fashion world


Neiman Marcus is the essence of Dallas’ fashion psyche.

Carrie Marcus Neiman, her husband Al Neiman, and her brother Herbert Marcus opened the first Neiman Marcus in downtown in 1907, and the business was an instant success — winning the hearts of Dallasites who wanted more than ordering goods from the Sears Roebuck catalog.

​​Neiman Marcus was founded in downtown Dallas in 1907 and has been a luxury fashion leader worldwide ever since. News that the company has been sold to a New York-based rival has loyalists worrying the brand will be tarnished and the city will lose important cultural cachet.

Stanley Marcus joined the family business 18 years later after graduating from Harvard University. He used lessons gleaned from his aunt Carrie to create a worldwide luxury retailing mecca that has survived three ownership changes in the past 20 years — including bankruptcy.

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Now the proposed purchase of its parent company by the parent company of Saks Fifth Avenue for $2.65 billion has created high anxiety in Dallas’ fashionista world.

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The deal will end more than 115 years of Neiman Marcus being run from Dallas, most of that time as a global luxury leader.

Stanley Marcus (seated) with Neiman Marcus employee Pansy Privitt Johnson (left) and an unidentified Neiman Marcus house model in the early 1950s. (See Caption / Digital File_EMAIL)

Saks parent HBC finally put out a press release Thursday detailing the proposed transaction, saying it will create Saks Global, “a combination of world-class luxury retail and real estate assets, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Saks OFF 5TH, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, each of which will continue operations under their respective brands.”

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Accent on “brands.”

That’s what concerns Neiman’s loyalists.

Just another brand?

Will Neiman Marcus become just another brand in HBC’s luxury lineup?

While the news release makes the case for why Neiman Marcus’ purchase makes economic sense, it also indicates a pecking order: “Saks Fifth Avenue is the leading name in luxury shopping.”

That’s certainly debatable, said Maria Halkias, The Dallas Morning News’ longtime retail reporter, who retired last month.

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“Richard Baker, CEO of HBC, has lusted over Neiman Marcus for years,” said Halkias, who closely covered luxury retailing for 31 years.

The crux of the matter, she said, is whether HBC can put these fierce competitors under one corporate umbrella and keep their stores relevant at a time when luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Hermès continue to take an exponentially larger share of the market with their own stores and e-commerce.

Most worrisome is consumers might see a deterioration of the personalized service that sets Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman apart from its new owner, she said.

Neiman Marcus Christmas Book catalogs on display at the downtown store during the company's...
Neiman Marcus Christmas Book catalogs on display at the downtown store during the company’s annual unveiling event in 2016. (G.J. McCarthy / Staff Photographer)

“Neiman Marcus,” she said, “is the reason there have been no full-line Saks Fifth Avenue stores in Dallas-Fort Worth for years and why Barneys New York came and left twice. Neiman’s NorthPark Center store is consistently the No. 1 volume store in the chain. Bergdorf Goodman is a juggernaut in Manhattan.”

In an exclusive interview with The News on Friday, Marc Metrick concurred with that assessment. The Saks Global CEO is poised to lead Neiman Marcus once the deal closes.

“You’re sitting in Dallas right now, and how many Saks Fifth Avenues are in that market?” Metrick said. “It’s a testament to the culture at Neiman Marcus that we could not pierce that market. There’s so much loyalty, and there’s so many dedicated folks and they love their Neiman’s there. It’s very exciting to be able to go in and to really think about, how can you expand on that, how can you build on that?”

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Forgive folks here if they’re wary.

Lynchpin of Dallas’ fashion identity

Neiman Marcus has been the lynchpin of Dallas’ fashion identity that spawned NorthPark and the wholesale Apparel Mart, said Tracy Hayes, former fashion editor of The News.

“Sitting for a Gittings portrait [the official portrait studio of the Neiman Marcus brand], being married in a wedding gown from the downtown NM bridal salon, having a multi-generational Christmas lunch in the Zodiac Room — those were the rites of passage and markers of Dallas’ membership in Dallas’ high society,” Hayes said.

The cachet of being the newspaper’s representative in the city where Neiman’s planted its flagship and homebase guaranteed Hayes a front-row seat when she covered European runway collections in the 1980s and 1990s.

The Crystal Charity Ball Fashion Show and Luncheon at Neiman Marcus downtown Dallas in 2009.
The Crystal Charity Ball Fashion Show and Luncheon at Neiman Marcus downtown Dallas in 2009.(Mei-Chun Jau)

“The store was also the launchpad for a host of other people who went on to make their marks with other ventures that burnished Dallas’ image — from the Horchow Collection’s Roger Horchow to Brian Bolke with Forty Five Ten and the Conservatory,” she said.

“It’s almost impossible to imagine Dallas without Neiman Marcus.”

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Family’s international legacy

Allison V. Smith, Stanley Marcus’ granddaughter, said the family’s international legacy will live on no matter who owns the company.

“Stanley and his aunt Carrie Marcus Neiman originated the annual Neiman Marcus Award in 1938,” said Smith, referring to the global prize that honors breakthrough talent in fashion from across the globe. “Later, Stanley created Neiman Marcus Fortnights [lavish multi-event celebrations themed after a specific country], bringing world-wide attention to Dallas, thus changing Dallasites’ perception of themselves and the city we live in.

“Through major acts of creativity and a laser focus on quality, they gave us the lasting gift of excellence.”

Kate Sheldon, CEO of Fashioneering LLC, has been associated with Neiman Marcus throughout her 34-year career — as a couture designer, a Neiman Marcus buyer and, most recently, as a consultant for clients who either do business with Neiman’s or aspire to.

“As a Texan, Neiman Marcus has been my sparkly touchstone throughout my life,” she said. “The days of working to scour the globe like truffle hunters to create the most beautifully unique assortments and experiences are long gone.”

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An undated photograph of the Marcus family on Aunt Carrie's front porch on Swiss Avenue in...
An undated photograph of the Marcus family on Aunt Carrie’s front porch on Swiss Avenue in Dallas.
(Allison V. Smith)

‘End of an era’

The sale to Saks has deepened her angst.

“A lot of the specialness — Neiman Marcus’ special sauce — that remains is at risk,” she said. “We will all be armchair quarterbacking this situation for decades to come. I will be talking about this in the nursing home, I have no doubt.”

Sheldon said her colleagues knew in their guts the days of consolidation were probably in the wings. “But we really hoped we would be on the buying end,” she said. “No matter how you slice it, this is the end of an era.”

Lisa Dawson, president of Kim Dawson Agency Inc., says the modeling agency owes its existence to “Mr. Stanley,” as her mother Kim Dawson called him.

When her mother decided to return home to Texas after modeling in New York, the only modeling job in North Texas was at Neiman Marcus’ Zodiac Room.

“People were always complaining that they couldn’t get in touch with models,” Lisa Dawson recalled. “This was before cell phones, beepers or even answering machines.”

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Her mom offered to organize the models and take a small percentage. Mr. Stanley thought that was a great idea. “Without Mr. Stanley’s help and encouragement, my mom might not have made that leap.”

In 2004, Neiman Marcus executive Ken Downing (at the podium) reveals that designer Tom Ford...
In 2004, Neiman Marcus executive Ken Downing (at the podium) reveals that designer Tom Ford will host a book launch event at the downtown Dallas store. (COURTNEY PERRY / 74519)

Neiman Marcus was the agency’s first client, and 60 years later, it remains one of the agency’s largest.

Is this the end of an era?

She certainly hopes not.

Dawson worries about the possibility of Neiman’s being rolled into Saks. “If that happens, I assume that they would take a lot of the work that we do to New York. I don’t know that,” she said.

“Yeah, if we lost all that, it would be bad.”

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She wonders what will happen to the Neiman Marcus Christmas Book and its fantasy items. “Even though very few people can afford to buy them, it’s always fun to see what they are,” she said.

“Neiman’s is not the store that it was when the family owned it, but it’s still a wonderful store and a great brand, so I would hate to see it go away. That would be really sad.”

Take a chill pill

Annette Becker, director and curator of the Texas Fashion Collection at the University of North Texas, says it’s time for people to take a chill pill.

“As the person who runs a fashion collection first started by Neiman Marcus in 1938, I see this as just one more step in its very long and rich history,” Becker said. “I’m honestly not worried about the brand. Because Neiman Marcus is such a storied institution, the name Neiman Marcus holds tremendous cultural capital and it will continue to hold its place in our society.”

Karen Katz, former CEO of Neiman Marcus Group, agrees and see this as another chapter in the iconic history of the retailer. “It has changed ownership at least half a dozen times since 1907, and it continues to live on,” said Katz, who stepped down from her post in January 2019.

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In 1997, pedestrians can't help but notice the "Big Hair" display in the windows of the...
In 1997, pedestrians can’t help but notice the “Big Hair” display in the windows of the downtown Dallas Neiman Marcus store. The company was celebrating its 90th anniversary. (Beatriz Terrazas / 108245)

Is it likely to become just another brand in HBC’s lineup?

“This is hard to predict,” she said, “but I believe Richard Baker understands the value of the Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman brands, how important the customers are to each of these brands, and the value of the NM and BG teams that serve the customer day in and day out.”

Here’s hoping he does.



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Dallas, TX

Dallas Cowboys scouting report: Breaking down the Steelers defense

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Dallas Cowboys scouting report: Breaking down the Steelers defense


Don’t look now, but the Cowboys offense seems to be getting into a bit of a rhythm. After scoring 19 points in the fourth quarter against the Ravens, the offense took another step forward against the Giants, most notably with Dak Prescott posting a sky high completion rate and the running backs finally showing some signs of life. But they’ll face a tough defense this week in Pittsburgh.

The Steelers have been known for their defense for several decades now, the Steel Curtain enduring as one of the most well-known nicknames in football. Head coach Mike Tomlin is a defensive minded coach himself, and he’s had a steady hand in keeping the defense elite ever since legendary defensive coordinator Dick LeBeau stepped down following the 2014 season. LeBeau’s replacement, Keith Butler, also retired after the 2021 season, leading to the promotion of current coordinator Teryl Austin.

Austin is a seasoned coaching veteran and Pittsburgh native. He attended the University of Pittsburgh as a defensive back and began his coaching career at Penn State. His first full-time coaching job came as the defensive backs coach at Wake Forest under then head coach Jim Caldwell. Nearly two decades later, after Austin had enjoyed several stints in the NFL, he reunited with Caldwell in Baltimore; Austin was coaching defensive backs while Caldwell ran the Ravens offense.

Caldwell parlayed his success in Baltimore into his second NFL head coaching job, taking over the Lions. In turn, he tabbed Austin as his defensive coordinator. Austin very quickly became a hot head coach candidate, as his defenses shined with star players like Ndamukong Suh, Ezekiel Ansah, and Darius Slay. Austin never landed a job, though, and he was on his way out when Caldwell was fired after the 2017 season. Austin then went to the Bengals, replacing current Cowboys run game coordinator Paul Guenther, though he would be fired nine games into what became Marvin Lewis’ final season as the head coach.

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Austin then joined the Steelers as a senior defensive assistant, working alongside Tomlin and Butler before being elevated to the top role. Austin’s ascendance did not bring with it a litany of changes, but rather he was promoted because of the continuity he offered. Like Tomlin, Austin hails from a similar school of defensive football that prioritizes fundamentals over scheme.

As such, the Steelers are not a very blitz heavy team. In fact, only six defenses are blitzing at a lower rate than Pittsburgh so far this season. Tomlin and Austin prefer their pass rush get home with just four, instead dropping the remaining seven defenders back into coverage to clog passing lanes. The Steelers tend to use a lot of two-deep safety shells, though Austin has proven adept throughout his career at disguising coverages prior to the snap. They primarily use zone coverage, though Austin has shown a good sense of when to switch things up.

There’s not much that’s been groundbreaking about Austin’s tenure as defensive coordinator, though he’s succeeded in keeping the Steelers right near the top of defensive production. They’ve ranked in the top 12 of the league in defensive DVOA both years he’s been in charge, and Pittsburgh is currently seventh.

Of course, it helps that the Steelers have a handful of superstars on that side of the ball, highlighted by T.J. Watt. The 2021 Defensive Player of the Year makes things much easier for Austin, especially with how much attention opposing offenses have to show him. That’s allowed for the Steelers’ rotation of edge rushers opposite Watt – Nick Herbig and Alex Highsmith – to get some easy wins in the pass rush. Veteran defensive tackle Cameron Heyward has also remained reliable, leading the team in both sacks and pressures.

While the pass rush has been solid as ever this year – Pittsburgh is seventh in both pressure and sack rate – their run defense has stolen the show. Only the Ravens and Vikings are giving up fewer rushing yards per game, and they have the ninth-highest rate of stuffed run plays. Pittsburgh largely accomplishes this by loading up the box, doing so at the fourth-highest rate in the league.

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That can be a risky proposition against high-powered passing attacks, but the quarterbacks this defense has faced thus far are Kirk Cousins (in his first game back from an Achilles tear), Bo Nix, Justin Herbert (playing with a high ankle sprain), and the combination of Anthony Richardson and Joe Flacco this past week. So that’s three quarterbacks not at full health and a rookie making just his second career start.

It would be safe to say that Dak Prescott is the best quarterback this defense has faced in 2024, and even safer to say CeeDee Lamb is the most dangerous skill player they’ve faced. That could make Austin rethink his plans of loading the box to stop the run, especially considering Dallas leads the league in pass play rate.

Another thing to consider: Prescott has thrown more passes into tight windows than any other quarterback, with 27.5% of his attempts going into a tight window. Only one Steelers defensive back has forced a tight window throw at or above that rate. In layman’s terms, the Steelers are giving up some fairly easy receptions, though they do a good job of wrapping up shortly after the catch. Prescott has been completing passes even with nothing open, and his offense ranks seventh in yards after the catch.

This won’t be an easy game for the Cowboys by any stretch. Watt facing off against Tyler Guyton is far from ideal, for starters, and this defense is extremely disciplined and assignment-sound. However, there are some holes that can be exploited by Prescott and Lamb, provided they have the time to find those holes. That’s easier said than done, but there is a roadmap to success against this unit. Whether or not they can follow that roadmap will speak to the overall focus and preparation of this roster and coaching staff.



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Dallas names executive assistant chief as interim to replace Eddie Garcia

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Dallas names executive assistant chief as interim to replace Eddie Garcia


Dallas has named an interim police chief to lead the department until a permanent replacement is found for outgoing Chief Eddie Garcia.

Dallas Interim City Manager Kimberly Bizor Tolbert announced Friday that Dallas Police Executive Assistant Chief Michael Igo will serve as interim chief effective the end of the day on Friday, Oct. 18.

“It is an honor to be named as Interim Dallas Police Chief. I want to thank Interim City Manager Kimberly Bizor Tolbert for this assignment and her confidence in me,” said Igo. “For the last three decades, I have remained committed to the safety of this great City and its residents. I look forward to serving in this new capacity and will continue prioritizing crime reduction and recruiting the best and brightest that this country has to offer.”

That’s when current Dallas Chief of Police Eddie Garcia will leave his position and begin his move to Austin, where he’ll be the assistant city manager overseeing public safety.

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Igo has been with the Dallas Police Department for more than three decades. According to the city, he was first promoted to senior corporal in 1997 and went on to become a sergeant, lieutenant, major, deputy chief, and assistant chief before his appointment to executive assistant chief in January 2024.

“I am confident that Chief Igo will provide the Dallas Police Department with the continuity we need during this transition. His experience, trust within the community, and knowledge of the Department gives me the confidence that he is the right person at the right time for this assignment,” said Tolbert. “Chief Igo has been unwavering in his commitment to his service in uniform. He will continue the Dallas Police Department’s focus on safety, our number one priority.”

The city said that in his various roles with the department, Igo “provided leadership and supervision to field supervisors, sergeants, police officers, specialized units, and patrol divisions. He has collaborated with local, state, and federal law enforcement agencies, served as a departmental liaison to City Hall, analyzed crime trends and conducted weekly violent crime analysis to improve residential safety, and conducted internal and external investigations.”

Igo has a bachelor of science degree in commercial economics from South Dakota University. He completed the inaugural Sergeant Series Leadership School and Lieutenant Series Leadership School from the Caruth Police Institute, as well as the FBI Command College at the University of Texas, the Law Enforcement Management Institute of North Texas at Texas A&M University, and the Senior Management Institute for Police.

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Celebrate Dallas’ deep French heritage

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Celebrate Dallas’ deep French heritage


People identify Dallas with its impressive skyline, vibrant arts scene and rich cultural tapestry. However, buried within the layers of this dynamic city is a significant, yet often overlooked, chapter of its history: the French influence that has shaped its identity.

From the early settlers of La Réunion to the modern-day cultural initiatives led by the Alliance Française de Dallas, the French legacy is an integral part of the narrative that defines this city.

In 1855, a group of French, Belgian and Swiss immigrants arrived in Texas with dreams of creating a utopian society. Led by Victor Considerant, a disciple of socialist philosopher Charles Fourier, these settlers founded a colony called La Réunion just west of present-day downtown. Their vision was ambitious: to establish a community rooted in equality, intellectual freedom and cooperative living.

Despite their noble aspirations, the commune faced numerous challenges, including harsh environmental conditions and internal conflicts. By 1857, La Réunion had dissolved, but the settlers’ contributions to the area were far from over. Many chose to stay in Dallas, bringing with them a wealth of skills and knowledge that would help shape the city’s future.

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The impact of the La Réunion settlers on Dallas was profound, particularly in the economic realm. Their expertise in various trades such as brickmaking, agriculture and winemaking contributed to the area’s burgeoning commercial scene.

One of the first brick factories in Dallas was established by these settlers, and many of the early buildings were constructed using their craftsmanship. Furthermore, the settlers introduced modern agricultural practices, significantly enhancing local farming and viticulture. Their influence can still be seen today in Dallas’ thriving food and wine industries, which reflect the city’s diverse culinary landscape.

Beyond their economic contributions, the French settlers played a crucial role in enriching the cultural fabric of Dallas. Their arrival marked the beginning of a rich tradition of arts, education and social ideals that would shape the city’s character. The settlers emphasized the importance of education and community, laying the groundwork for some of the first schools in the region.

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French cultural traditions have persisted in Dallas, seen in everything from culinary influences to the arts. The annual Bastille Day celebrations and French festivals like Francophonie Festival and Fête de la Musique highlight this enduring connection.

For example:

— Frenchman Jean Monuel created the first brewery.

— John Louckx helped create the first system of public schools.

— Julien Reverchon was an early and influential botanist in the city.

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— The first piano in Dallas was brought by the French settlers.

— The first Dallas art studio was opened by François Ignace “Adolphe” Gouhenant.

One of the most recognizable landmarks in Dallas, Reunion Tower, serves as a reminder of the city’s French roots. While many admire the tower for its stunning views and modern architecture, few understand the historical significance of its name. The tower pays homage to the utopian dream of La Réunion, symbolizing the connection between Dallas’ past and present. This landmark not only stands as a tribute to the early settlers but also encapsulates the ideals of hope, ambition and resilience. It invites residents and visitors alike to reflect on the city’s history and the diverse cultures that have contributed to its growth.

On Saturday, the Alliance Française de Dallas will bring the often-forgotten history of La Réunion back into the spotlight with the La Réunion Symposium, following the recent publication of Considérant’s The Road to Texas, translated by Paola Tettamanzi Buckley and published by Deep Vellum. This book, which chronicles the journey of European settlers to Texas, offers fresh insights into the motivations and experiences of those who joined La Réunion.

As we celebrate Dallas’ dynamic identity, let us honor the contributions of its French settlers and recognize their role in shaping the city we know today. By embracing our diverse history, we not only enrich our understanding of the past but also pave the way for a more inclusive and vibrant future.

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Emeline Colson is executive director of Alliance Francaise de Dallas.

We welcome your thoughts in a letter to the editor. See the guidelines and submit your letter here. If you have problems with the form, you can submit via email at letters@dallasnews.com



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