Connect with us

News

The Chinese label subverting masculine stereotypes for a ‘gender-fluid generation’

Published

on

Written by Oscar Holland, CNN

The subject of masculinity — and perceived threats to it — seems to be more and more delicate in right now’s China. The nation’s state broadcaster has moved to ban exhibits portraying “effeminate types,” training officers have proposed methods to fight “feminization” in colleges and state media has decried the “sickly aesthetics” that propel younger “gender-ambiguous” males to stardom.

For the co-founders of menswear label Pronounce, whose androgynous collections defy categorization, the headlines belie an rising actuality among the many nation’s youth. In actual fact, Chinese language-born Yushan Li and Jun Zhou see a “disconnect” between official attitudes and what’s occurring at floor degree.

“The ambiance on the web has grow to be increasingly more conservative,” Li mentioned over the telephone from Shenzhen. “However we have been again residing in China since (the beginning of) Covid-19, connecting with a whole lot of younger individuals, and it is only a actually gender-fluid technology. Persons are going to just accept it will definitely.

“Once I was younger, related discussions had been additionally occurring,” he added. “Masculinity and the concept boys have to be males — these matters have all the time existed in our Asian tradition.”

Although thought-about a menswear label, Pronounce typically exhibits its gender-neutral designs on feminine fashions. Credit score: Courtesy of Pronounce

Pronounce could also be broadly thought-about a males’s model — even changing into, in 2019, the primary Chinese language label to stage a runway present at Italy’s most prestigious menswear occasion, Pitti Uomo — however the pair would not design with a selected demographic in thoughts. As an alternative each female and male fashions are used to showcase their loose-fitting but structural creations, which had been made to be worn by anybody “who’s curious, who loves new and fascinating stuff, who desires to be assured,” Li mentioned.

Advertisement

Bridging worlds

In addition to its progressive perspective to gender, Pronounce’s enchantment in Europe attracts from its founders’ means to bridge the aesthetic divide between East and West.

Having each studied in London earlier than launching Pronounce in 2016, Zhou and Li headquartered their label between Shanghai and — earlier than the pandemic struck — Milan. With Zhou drawn to Italian tailoring heritage and Li extra targeted on Asian crafting (“that is why we now have a whole lot of arguments,” the latter joked, “however we discover a steadiness on the finish of the day”), the pair have established a popularity for incorporating Chinese language influences into their work.

The famous Terracotta Warriors are among the Chinese themes that Li and Zhou have incorporated into their designs.

The well-known Terracotta Warriors are among the many Chinese language themes that Li and Zhou have integrated into their designs. Credit score: Courtesy of Pronounce

Their Spring-Summer time 2020 assortment, for example, noticed photographs of the nation’s iconic Terracotta Warriors printed on outsized turtlenecks and wide-legged denims. However nods to their homeland are sometimes subtler and expressed by shapes, patterns or supplies, from woven bamboo vests to trendy iterations of the “Mao fits” broadly worn in China after the nation’s communist revolution within the late Nineteen Forties.

Of their designs, the duo has performed with the proportions, traces and sleeve lengths of Mao fits for successive collections. Variations have are available in pink with enlarged collars or embroidered with delicate gold thread. Different interpretations of the tunic noticed Li and Zhou use fishnet cloth to disclose fashions’ pores and skin, or cinch the clothes on the waist earlier than buttoning them up with butterfly-shaped fasteners.

Advertisement

“We’re actually obsessive about Mao fits,” Li mentioned. “We predict individuals who put on them look actually good-looking, actually charming — the silhouette, the sensation once they’re worn, the actually optimistic vitality.”

A contemporary take on the "Mao suits" widely worn in China after the communist revolution.

A up to date tackle the “Mao fits” broadly worn in China after the communist revolution. Credit score: Courtesy of Pronounce

Pronounce’s newest assortment, unveiled digitally at London Style Week in February, epitomizes this strategy. In a blur of weighty woolen overcoats, shaggy knee-high boots and animal-horn equipment, appears impressed by Mongolian and Tibetan cultures flashed on display towards a backdrop of colourful patterned rugs.

Dubbed “Fashionable Nomads,” the venture was knowledgeable by the robes and outerwear discovered on the Tibetan plateau, and the pair’s journey to Internal Mongolia, the place most of China’s ethnic Mongol minority reside (visiting Mongolia itself, or Tibet, was dominated out resulting from pandemic-era journey restrictions, Li mentioned). After spending time with the area’s nomadic communities and buying native textiles for reference, the designers put their very own spin on rugged, textured clothes made to climate powerful situations.

An overcoat from the label's new collection, "Modern Nomads."

An overcoat from the label’s new assortment, “Fashionable Nomads.” Credit score: Courtesy of Pronounce

By reinterpreting what they present in a gender-neutral fashion, the label’s founders hoped to play on Chinese language stereotypes that hyperlink nomadic cultures with sometimes masculine traits.

“The boys are tremendous robust, tremendous powerful,” Li mentioned. “However we discovered that the Mongolian lady are actually powerful as effectively. Even enjoying with the little youngsters, we noticed that they had began (elevating animals) and constructing homes. It is past gender, past technology — it is a part of their DNA. For these of us who reside in cities, it is so completely different, and so they had such a huge impact on us.”

Avoiding cliche

Advertisement

In spanning visible languages, Pronounce’s problem is, partly, discovering Asian motifs which might be acquainted sufficient to resonate with international audiences with out veering into stereotypes.

“This can be a subject we mentioned from the start of our model,” Li mentioned. “The way to eliminate cliche, or to have our personal (take) on these actually well-known types.”

Because of this, he added, the model has steered away from basic clothes just like the qipao, the form-fitting costume broadly related to China within the Western creativeness. “We could not discover a answer and do not have (a novel interpretation) of that fashion but,” Li mentioned, “so we have not touched it.”

Pronounce's recent collaboration with Puma was inspired by the ancient Pumapunku temple complex in Bolivia.

Pronounce’s latest collaboration with Puma was impressed by the traditional Pumapunku temple advanced in Bolivia. Credit score: Puma

Nor does the model need to pigeonhole itself, as Li and Zhou look past China for inspiration. Pronounce’s Spring-Summer time 2019 assortment, for example, was based mostly on the pair’s journey to flower markets in India, whereas a latest collaboration with Puma appeared to the traditional Pumapunku temple advanced in Bolivia.

“It is not like, ‘We’re Chinese language designers, so we now have to do this sort of fashion,’” Li mentioned. “It is extra that we now have actually robust emotions about one thing, after which we now have that come out.”

Advertisement
Continue Reading
Advertisement
Click to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

News

Blow to UAW as Mercedes-Benz workers in Alabama vote against union

Published

on

Blow to UAW as Mercedes-Benz workers in Alabama vote against union

Stay informed with free updates

Workers at a Mercedes-Benz plant in Alabama rejected joining the United Auto Workers union on Friday, a major setback in labour’s campaign to organise foreign-owned carmakers across the US south.

The National Labor Relations Board said 2,642 votes had been cast against union representation, versus 2,045 in favour. The plant assembles luxury sport utility vehicles, including electric and ultra-luxe Maybach models.

The high-profile defeat is a reversal for the UAW after its landslide victory at a Volkswagen plant in Chattanooga last month. Union leaders had hoped that vote marked the beginning of a wave of labour gains across the US south.

Advertisement

The Detroit-based union, which represents more than 400,000 active workers, has said it hopes to capitalise on the record 25 per cent pay rises it won for Ford, General Motors and Stellantis employees after a strike last year.

UAW president Shawn Fain on Friday said the union would continue organisation efforts at the Vance, Alabama plant. “This isn’t fatal. This is a bump in the road. We will be back in Vance, and I think we’ll have a different result down the road,” he said.

Mercedes said it hoped its employees continued to view the company as “not only their employer of choice, but a place they would recommend to friends and family”.

Lawmakers across the south have used generous subsidies and promises of low-cost, non-union labour to attract foreign carmakers to their states since the 1970s. The union says the so-called “Alabama discount” has helped Mercedes increase its profits 200 per cent over the past three years.

The region’s “right to work” laws give workers the ability to opt out of paying union dues, making it more difficult for labour organisations to support themselves financially.

Advertisement

Union organisers faced far greater resistance at Mercedes than at Volkswagen. After the union announced 70 per cent of the facility’s 5,075 eligible employees had signed union cards, Mercedes replaced the plant’s chief executive, eliminated an unpopular two-tier wage plan that paid longer-serving employees more, and implemented an 11 per cent pay raise.

A double-sided sign hung on the plant’s fence urged workers to simply “vote” on the external public-facing side, but to “vote no” on the inside. Pictures of the sign went viral on social media.

Stephen Silvia, a professor at American University who studies labour relations, called it “a classic anti-union campaign”.

Mercedes previously said it respects employees’ right to organise and was providing workers with the information they needed to make an informed choice.

Local officials also fought the UAW. Alabama’s Kay Ivey, a Republican, was one of six governors who signed a letter calling the UAW “special interests looking to come into our state and threaten our jobs and the values we live by” before the VW election last month. Mercedes was one of the first car plants in Alabama and was widely credited with reviving the state’s manufacturing sector, said University of Alabama professor Michael Innis-Jiménez.

Advertisement

“They are quoting this as the best place to do business because you can pay the workers less,” Innis-Jiménez said. “I think the politicians here are scared that [if the union wins] companies will just stop coming in.”

In March, Alabama passed a state law designed to complicate union organising by denying subsidies to companies that voluntarily recognise a new union.

Despite the loss, the UAW is likely to continue campaigning to organise workers at foreign-owned car plants across the country, Silvia said, but might slow the pace at which it files for representation elections. The union’s next targets may be a Hyundai plant in Montgomery, Alabama and a Toyota plant on the outskirts of St Louis, Missouri, Silvia added.

Continue Reading

News

A bloody nose, a last hurrah for friends, and more prom memories you shared with us

Published

on

A bloody nose, a last hurrah for friends, and more prom memories you shared with us

Eddie Almance, left, and his sister Leila, pose for portraits taken by their cousin Ailem Villarreal on the rooftop of the Marriott Hotel in downtown Odessa, Texas

Danielle Villasana/Danielle Villasana


hide caption

toggle caption

Advertisement

Danielle Villasana/Danielle Villasana


Eddie Almance, left, and his sister Leila, pose for portraits taken by their cousin Ailem Villarreal on the rooftop of the Marriott Hotel in downtown Odessa, Texas

Danielle Villasana/Danielle Villasana

It’s prom season, and we asked you to share stories from that special night, whether you went last year or decades ago.

We received many heartwarming stories about going to prom with friends, future spouses and high school sweethearts.

Advertisement

Some people told us they didn’t go to prom at all — or didn’t go with a date. Some people learned big lessons at their prom, while others had unforgettable mishaps.

Here are some of the memories you shared with us. And remember that you can participate in future callouts by signing up for NPR’s Up First newsletter.

Day-of mishaps didn’t stop the celebrations

Marshall Metcalf from Taylorville, Ill. recalls how, after walking into his prom, his “nose exploded in a spontaneous fountain of blood.”

It was “Kind of like Footloose, without the fighting or dancing. Just an enormous nosebleed, all down the white rented shirt,” Metcalf wrote. “I dove into the bathroom to clean up, terribly embarrassed. But to my great surprise no one commented on it the rest of the night. Guess my classmates weren’t that bad after all.”

Anthony Rodas from Wisconsin almost crashed his car when his date mentioned she was dating someone else. “On the way there, she nonchalantly mentions, ‘Oh, by the way, that guy is my boyfriend.’ I drove through a stop sign — which has flashing red lights below the sign as well as little LEDs around the signs themselves, the least excusable stop sign to run — as I am processing what had just happened,” Rodas wrote. His date was a little startled and concerned, but no one was hurt and they made it safely to prom. “It was rather awkward, and we spent a good portion of the prom doing our own things, but we did dance to a few songs and still ended up having a good time,” Rodas wrote.

Advertisement

Jessica Reitano also ended up marrying her prom date. In 1990, her and her now husband crashed a prom when she came back home from college.

Jessica Reitano


hide caption

toggle caption

Jessica Reitano

Advertisement


Jessica Reitano also ended up marrying her prom date. In 1990, her and her now husband crashed a prom when she came back home from college.

Jessica Reitano

Josh Waters in Georgia wrote that his “prom date was so mad at me because I refused to wait in line for pictures right when we got there.”

After three hours of dancing to Boyz II Men, the pair looked “a sweaty mess. However, it must not have made her that mad,” Waters wrote. “We just celebrated 16 years of marriage.”

Prom night was clouded by difficult times, personal and political, for some

Robin Dias of Scottsdale, Ariz. went to prom in Darien, Conn. in 1968, as unrest around the Vietnam War reached its peak. The spring was fraught with protests, political unrest and the assassinations of two of America’s most high profile leaders, Martin Luther King and Robert F Kennedy. Dias wrote that “It almost seemed wrong to want to dress like a princess at a ball when there was so much turmoil,” Dias wrote.

Advertisement

She recalled her mother standing in her bedroom, ironing while the TV blared with the news of the MLK funeral march. Dias’ mother sighed, and said aloud, “It’s all so terrible. But I really hope the school won’t cancel the proms this spring. You kids still deserve to have your Prom Night.”

Casey Promise Thompson was one of the only openly gay students at her prom night in her small town in Tennessee.

“I walked in, nervous of people’s reactions to me wearing a tux. I had lived a life of being severely bullied and not being the best at making friends. But I had evolved over time and tried to learn to connect to others through art,” Thompson wrote to us.

She would give away her doodles and sketches all the time. She estimates she probably gave away hundreds of drawings. So, it came as no surprise that by senior year, she was voted “Most Talented” by her classmates.

Of course, this would mean that she would have to get on stage at prom and accept her award with all the other superlatives. “I was immediately nervous and sick to my stomach,” she wrote. “Instead of the expected cold shoulder and fear of being laughed at, they all smiled and welcomed me.”

Advertisement

Thompson learned an important lesson that day: “It suddenly dawned on me that my art had made an impact. Everyone did know who I was. I had actually been a popular kid my Senior year and I didn’t even know it. My brain had built up this idea that no one liked me all of these years, and right before I graduated high school…I finally learned that people actually did respect and appreciate me. My art has made me into someone.”

Romantic dates weren’t always the focus of prom

In 2010, Karley Ford went to her senior prom with her best friends instead of a date.

Karley Ford


hide caption

toggle caption

Advertisement

Karley Ford


In 2010, Karley Ford went to her senior prom with her best friends instead of a date.

Karley Ford

Karley Ford in Colorado told us that she “had the worst luck with getting dates to… literally any dance. I was just perpetually single. Prom was no exception. Junior prom, my date got swine flu. Senior prom, my date decided to go with someone else– one week – before prom. I had already gotten his boutonniere in 2010.

At senior prom, Ford said she expected to be depressed because she was going alone. One of her good friends asked Ford to join her as her “date” a couple days before.

Advertisement

“The best thing, though, was this picture. We had been friends since grade school, and it was one of the last hurrahs together before going off to college or wherever the wind took us,” Ford wrote. “Despite me not having a date, my childhood friends all rallied together, made sure that I had reasons to smile and reminded me that I am never alone (and I didn’t need a stinkin’ date).”

Going with a friend also made things 10 times more fun for Laura Popielski in Washington D.C. “My best friend and I decided to go to prom months before the date. He was gay and I was a bit of a wallflower when it came to dating/boys so it made good sense to go together,” Popielski wrote. “Nine years later, he passed away and now it’s been ten years since that… and I still remember how fun it was to collaborate with him, how we were the perfect pair.”

Some who didn’t attend prom are stamping their own traditions on the day

Ananya Paul grew up in India and never went to prom. Now in California, she “will be making memories when my rising Junior wears a saree to her prom. Our children take pride in celebrating and showcasing their culture.” Paul wrote that it is “heartening” to see more students wear traditional attire like sarees or lehengas to prom in recent years.

“What’s also intriguing is how my daughter has chosen to go to prom with her girlfriends rather than a date. It speaks volumes about the evolving dynamics of friendship and independence among today’s youth,” Paul wrote. “It’s these unique cultural shifts and personal choices that make each prom season special and memorable in its own way.”

Chad Campbell contributed production to the audio version of this story and Ally Schweitzer edited. The digital version was edited by Obed Manuel.

Advertisement
Continue Reading

News

Video: Americans Love to Shop Online. TikTok Is Making It a Live Sport.

Published

on

Video: Americans Love to Shop Online. TikTok Is Making It a Live Sport.

“This new flash deal is for two days.” “$11.99!” “Other deals down in the cart.” “You get the bra, the top and the leggings, all for $16.” This is Solaris. She’s 21, and she sells products on TikTok LIVE for a living. “Listen, if my body isn’t representative of yours, there’s someone in those reviews who is. I’m going in for about four hours – 3 to 4 hours – and take an hourlong break, and then I get back on for the remainder of the day. I can pick something up and immediately, just like, Look at this little guy, why don’t you — He’s cute. Don’t you love him?” TikTok launched its in-app shopping feature in the U.S. last year, hoping to replicate the success of its Chinese sister app, Douyin. To do that, it has partnered with third-party agencies like this one, run by Chinese Americans with experience in e-commerce. TikTok offers the agency sample products and negotiates with brands on their behalf. The goal is to train creators to sell products live to a social audience and make the platform a mainstream shopping destination in America. “3, 2, 1. All right, Skye, you claim the orange. I got you, my love.” Streamers go live for several hours each day from this tiny studio in Manhattan, New York City, hawking everything from snacks and clothes to toys and press-on nails. “Please make sure that these are at least in your cart right now, OK? If they’re not in your cart right now, you’re going to have missed out on your chance to get this. It’s hard to explain my job to my friends. Everyone, you know, like, is on TikTok, but my friends don’t know about TikTok LIVE. Until they actually watch me on it, they’re like, But what are you doing?” “Let me show you real quick how you place an order with us, all right?” “There’s only a few single digits left, items for small and medium for this color too. So get it while you can.” These operators have a whole playbook of tactics to drive sales, like celebrating each purchase with a ringing bell — “Right here. That’s another sale. Thank you for purchasing, guys.” and offering limited-time flash deals exclusively for viewers. “Comment the word ‘me’ if you do want us to do another flash sale deal for these. Because I just came in here, I want to be able to give you guys some deals too, OK?” On her biggest day, Maria sold $10,000 worth of jumpsuits after eight marathon hours of livestreaming. But on some days, the haul is just a few hundred dollars. It all depends on who sees the livestream and how often. “Because of that, I’ve learned to really rely on my hourly pay and not rely on my commission too much.” “I get paid $25 an hour plus 2 percent commission. This is definitely like the best-paying job for my set of creative skills that I could get at the moment.” “We have some giveaway starting right now, guys. If you’re just joining, welcome.” TikTok Shop has grown rapidly. The company has reportedly set a goal to reach as much as $17.5 billion in sales by the end of this year. But even that is still peanuts compared to its sister app, Douyin, which has become an e-commerce juggernaut in its own right. It sold over $200 billion worth of goods in China last year. That’s about a fourth of what was sold on Amazon globally in 2023. But TikTok’s major e-commerce push in the U.S. comes at a precarious time. The government passed a law that would force TikTok to be sold or face a ban. “It’s a little scary because it’s, like, I work on TikTok. That’s my job. That’s how I make my full- time money to pay my bills, pay my rent, pay my credit card off. It kind of definitely makes me very uncertain as to, you know, where am I going to go after this.” Though many believe the phenomenon of social e-commerce will still take off here, even if TikTok isn’t around long enough to see it through.

Continue Reading

Trending