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No water slides, but these humble Wisconsin destinations offer lots of surprises

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No water slides, but these humble Wisconsin destinations offer lots of surprises


NEW GLARUS — There was no shortage of places we could have met.

Sawmill Pizza and Brewshed in Clear Lake in northwestern Wisconsin would have been tasty. Frog Bay Tribal National Park in Red Cliff would have been picturesque. And Ten Chimneys in Genesee Depot enriching.

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But with our schedules tight and since we both live in Madison, we chose a short trek to New Glarus. This is where travel writer Mary Bergin and I sat at a square wooden table and below one of the 110-year-old murals inside Puempel’s Olde Tavern and talked about her new book, “Small-Town Wisconsin.”






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Puempel’s Olde Tavern in New Glarus was established in 1893 and remains a popular stop.




It was a Tuesday afternoon, so the scene was a bit more raucous, thanks to the weekly euchre game that has been a staple for the past 13 years for Dianna Truttmann, Jane Martinson, Barb Anderson and Rosalie Huntington.

Other customers nibbled away at cheese plates, some nursed taps of Hamm’s and Moon Man while the tavern’s owner, Chuck Bigler, anchored the north end of the bar. As we were leaving, he offered up an impromptu history lesson of the place that was established in 1893 by Swiss immigrants Joseph and Bertha Puempel and later owned by Otto Puempel for an astonishing 58 years. Bigler is just the third owner after taking over in 1993 and is a lifelong resident of this Green County village.

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Small-Town Wisconsin

Chuck Bigler, who is only the third owner of Puempel’s Olde Tavern, purchased the New Glarus business in 1993. 




“It’s like something wraps itself around you and won’t let you leave,” said Bigler, who retired last year from his full-time job of 40 years at a local car dealership. “And never once in my 71 years have I ever had an inkling to not be here.”

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For Bergin, Puempel’s is the epitome of community and is among the many inspirations for her book that features 50 small towns and pays homage to 100 others, all of them in Wisconsin and each under 5,000 people.







Small-Town Wisconsin

Mary Bergin has been writing about travel and Wisconsin for 35 years. She recently published “Small-Town Wisconsin.”

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There is only one Puempel’s (pronounced pimples), but scores of communities throughout Wisconsin are loaded with their own stories, people and places. “Small-Town Wisconsin” (Globe Pequot), which Bergin began researching in fall 2021 to hit a deadline five months later, serves as a guide and has come out just as the state’s tourism season is kicking into high gear.







Small-Town Wisconsin

Mary Bergin began researching her book in fall 2021 to hit a deadline five months later.

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“Tourism is a healthy, good industry for a town to invest in. It can be good for a local economy and is very good for some of the economies that are in this book,” said Bergin, who has written five other books on travel and food.

“I think too often the communities that get the most attention in tourism are the destinations that are big and loud about it, meaning a deep marketing budget. But there’s more than that.”



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Small-Town Wisconsin

Mary Bergin’s curiosity and taste for Wisconsin rarely wanes. On a recent trip to New Glarus she stopped into the New Glarus Bakery, an institution in the village since 1910.




Euro-cultured

While Kohler and Wisconsin Dells, both of which draw international crowds, are in the book, Bergin points to the Ozaukee County community of Belgium as one of her “under-the-radar” destinations. Located along Highway 43 between Port Washington and Sheboygan and just west of Harrington Beach State Park, the village of 2,245 people has embraced its heritage and is home to the International Luxembourg American Cultural Society and Center.

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Built in 2009 under the auspices of Luxembourg’s Ministry of Culture, the center features the “Roots and Leaves Immigration Museum” and is the only cultural center in the world celebrating the heritage and culture of Luxembourgers.







Small-Town Wisconsin

Mike Higbie, of Monticello, sits outside of Puempel’s Olde Tavern with his 2-year-old blue Doberman, Zeus, in downtown New Glarus.

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According to its history on the village’s website, when many of the immigrants began settling in the area in the 1800s much of Luxembourg had been annexed by Belgium. So people who lived in the area began to refer to their new home as the “Belgium area” because the settlers, while ethnically Luxembourgish, were citizens of Belgium when they left Europe. The area continues to be home to one of the largest populations of Luxembourg immigrants and their descendants in the country.

“The attention that the country of Luxembourg pays to Belgium is astounding,” said Bergin. “I would even argue that (former Milwaukee Mayor) Tom Barrett is U.S. ambassador to Luxembourg in part because of the respect that Belgium gets from Luxembourg. It’s a big deal.”

Bergin, 67, is well acquainted with her subject matter. She grew up on a dairy farm in Hulls Crossing, a hamlet just north of Greenbush in Sheboygan County. She spent first grade in a one-room schoolhouse and remembers when the local cheese factory was destroyed by fire. When she was in high school she waited tables at the resorts in nearby Elkhart Lake.



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Small-Town Wisconsin

New Glarus is one of 50 communities featured in Mary Bergin’s book.




Early memories

After graduating from UW-Oshkosh, she spent two years working at newspapers in Oklahoma and Kentucky before returning to Wisconsin, where she spent 20 years writing for The Capital Times in Madison and in 2006 wrote the book “Sidetracked in Wisconsin: A Guide for Thoughtful Travelers.” After leaving the paper in 2008, she dove into freelance writing with a focus on travel pieces, primarily in the Midwest. Her books also include “Hungry for Wisconsin” in 2008 and “The Wisconsin Supper Club Cookbook” published in 2015.

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“Small-Town Wisconsin” builds on her work and is the ideal companion for road trips and perfect for the glove box.

“The soul of who we are as Wisconsinites — loyal, quirky, down to earth, humble — takes root with how and where we are raised,” Bergin wrote in the book’s introduction. “For many, our earliest memories are of life in or near a small town.”







Small-Town Wisconsin

Carol Allen plants geraniums in a window box on the second floor above The Bramble Patch, the business her daughter owns in downtown New Glarus.

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The 195-page book, divided into four geographical quadrants, takes readers to five Door County communities, including Washington Island, along with Eagle River, Hurley and Peshtigo, among others in the state’s northeastern region.

There are trips to Spring Green, Gays Mills and Westby in the Driftless Area of southwestern Wisconsin and to the Alpine Valley Music Theater near East Troy and the Yerkes Observatory in Williams Bay in southeastern Wisconsin.

The northwestern part of the state includes treks to Hayward, Chetek, Osseo and to Cornucopia, home to the state’s northernmost U.S. Post Office and the more inviting Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

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Always more to see

And while Bergin does her due diligence on each of the 50 communities featured in the book, she also highlights nearby sites worthy of a visit. For the Dane County community of Roxbury, for example, the focus is on the Dorf Haus and its Bavarian menu, but Bergin also suggests side trips to Wollersheim Winery, along with eagle watching and cow chip throwing across the Wisconsin River in Sauk City and Prairie du Sac.

In Hurley, in far northern Wisconsin, Bergin writes about Silver Street and its proliferation of bars, but also points to the nearby National Finnish American Festival Cultural Center and the Plummer Mine Interpretive Park. And in Algoma, von Stiehl Winery takes center stage, but Bergin also writes about the National Shrine of Our Lady of Good Hope 15 miles to the west.

Back in New Glarus, billed as “America’s Little Switzerland,” Bergin’s book includes a short interview with Beth Zurbuchen, president and CEO of the Swiss Center of North America, but also includes information about New Glarus Brewing Co. and the Chalet of the Golden Fleece Museum, located in the Swiss Alps chalet-style home of Edwin Barlow, who brought the Wilhelm Tell play to America in 1938.

“This is a small community. So to establish a cultural identity takes the participation and commitment of a lot of people. A lot of smaller communities don’t have that. They don’t think they have anything to distinguish themselves from others,” Bergin said as she sipped a 7-Up. “This (community) would be a lot different if people didn’t care. But people care.”

Barry Adams covers regional news for the Wisconsin State Journal. Send him ideas for On Wisconsin at 608-252-6148 or by email at badams@madison.com.



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Wisconsin

Minnesota leading nation in voter turnout, with Wisconsin still counting votes

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Minnesota leading nation in voter turnout, with Wisconsin still counting votes


Wisconsin man accused of faking his death, and more headlines

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Wisconsin man accused of faking his death, and more headlines

04:09

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MINNEAPOLIS — Minnesota will once again be one of the top states in the country for voter turnout.

The State Canvassing Board said 3,272,414 Minnesotans cast ballots in the 2024 general election, which is 76.41% of eligible voters in Minnesota. 

According to the University of Florida, that’s the highest turnout rate in the country right now. Wisconsin, which is currently ranked second with a 76.37% turnout rate, is still working to certify its election results. 

The turnout rate for Minnesota this election is slightly lower than the 2020 election, in which 79.96% of eligible voters in Minnesota voted.

On Thursday, the board certified the election results of contests for president, vice president, U.S. senate and the U.S. House of Representatives for Minnesota. 

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The board also approved plans for Monday’s recount in the race for Minnesota House District 14B and noted the publicly funded recount that took place Thursday in Scott County for House District 54A

After all recounts are complete, the board will meet and certify the results of the two house races. 



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Wisconsin Weekend in a Minute: Trainfest, SnowGlobe Holiday Festival, Domes Holiday Parade and more

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Wisconsin Weekend in a Minute: Trainfest, SnowGlobe Holiday Festival, Domes Holiday Parade and more


Winter has finally shown up here in southeastern Wisconsin and that might have you in the holiday spirit! Check out Adriana’s complete list of fun things to do for the entire family.

FRIDAY
2024 Holiday Folk Fair International
Exposition Center at the Wisconsin State Fair Park
8200 West Greenfield Avenue,
West Allis, WI 53214

Country Christmas Illuminated Walking Nights
The Ingleside Hotel
2810 Golf Road,
Pewaukee, WI 53072

Milwaukee Bucks vs. Indiana Pacers
Fiserv Forum
1111 N. Vel R. Phillips Avenue,
Milwaukee, WI 53203

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SATURDAY
Domes Holiday Parade
524 S Layton Blvd,
Milwaukee, WI 53215

The Hip Hop Nutcracker
Marcus Performing Arts Center
929 N. Water Street,
Milwaukee, WI 53202

Trainfest 2024
Baird Center
400 W. Wisconsin Avenue,
Milwaukee, WI 53203

SnowGlobe Holiday Festival
Franklin Field7035 S. Ballpark Drive,
Franklin, WI 53132

USS Beloit Commissioning
Veterans Park
1010 N. Lincoln Memorial Drive,
Milwaukee, WI 53202

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SUNDAY
Paint Your Own Pet Bowl
Black Husky Brewing
909 E. Locust Street,
Milwaukee, WI 53212


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Wisconsin Man Admits He Faked His Death and Left His Family for Europe

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Wisconsin Man Admits He Faked His Death and Left His Family for Europe


GREEN LAKE, Wis. — A Wisconsin man who faked his own drowning this summer so he could abandon his wife and three children has been communicating with authorities daily from Eastern Europe, even telling them how he did it, but has not committed to returning home, a sheriff said Thursday.

Ryan Borgwardt has been talking with authorities since Nov. 11 after disappearing for three months, Green Lake County Sheriff Mark Podoll said at a news conference. The sheriff later showed a video that Borgwardt had sent the sheriff’s office that day.

“The great news is we know that he is alive and well,” Podoll said. “The bad news is we don’t know where Ryan exactly is, and he has not yet decided to return home.”

Borgwardt, wearing an orange T-shirt and not smiling, looked directly into the camera in the video, which appears to have been taken on his phone. Borgwardt said he was in his apartment and briefly panned the camera but mostly showed just a door and bare walls.

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“I’m safe and secure, no problem,” Borgwardt said. “I hope this works.”

Borgwardt told authorities he fled because of “personal matters,” the sheriff said. Podoll did not elaborate.

“He was just going to try and make things better in his mind, and this was the way it was going to be,” Podoll said.

Borgwardt told authorities he traveled about 50 miles (80 kilometers) from his home in Watertown to Green Lake, where he overturned his kayak, dumped his phone in the lake and then paddled an inflatable boat to shore. He told authorities he picked that lake because it’s the deepest in Wisconsin at 237 feet (over 72 meters).

After leaving the lake, he rode an electric bike about 70 miles (110 kilometers) through the night to Madison, the sheriff said. From there, he took a bus to Detroit, then boarded a bus to Canada and got on a plane there, the sheriff said.

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Police were still verifying Borgwardt’s description of what happened, Podoll said.

The sheriff suggested Borgwardt could be charged with obstructing the investigation into his disappearance, but so far no counts have been filed. The sheriff’s office said the search for Borgwardt’s body, which lasted more than a month, cost at least $35,000. Podoll said that Borgwardt told authorities that he didn’t expect the search to last more than two weeks.

Whether Borgwardt returns will be up to his “free will,” Podoll said. Borgwardt’s biggest concern about returning is how the community will react, the sheriff said.

“He thought his plan was going to pan out, but it didn’t go the way he had planned,” the sheriff said. “And so now we’re trying to give him a different plan to come back.”

The sheriff said authorities “keep pulling at his heartstrings” to return home.

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“Christmas is coming,” Podoll said. “And what better gift could your kids get than to be there for Christmas?”

Borgwardt’s disappearance was first investigated as a possible drowning after he went kayaking on Green Lake, about 100 miles (160 kilometers) northwest of Milwaukee, in August. But subsequent clues—including that he obtained a new passport three months before he disappeared—led investigators to speculate that he faked his death to meet up with a woman he had been communicating with in Uzbekistan, a former Soviet republic in Central Asia.

The sheriff declined to comment when asked what he knew about the woman, but he said police contacted Borgwardt “through a female that spoke Russian.”

Prior to the sheriff’s office speaking with Borgwardt last week, he had not been heard from since the night of Aug. 11 when he texted his wife in Watertown shortly before 11 p.m., saying he was headed to shore after kayaking.

Deputies located his vehicle and trailer near the lake. They also found his overturned kayak with a life jacket attached to it in an area where the lake’s waters run more than 200 feet (60 meters) deep. The search for his body went on for more than 50 days, with divers on several occasions exploring the lake.

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In early October, the sheriff’s department learned that Canadian law enforcement authorities had run Borgwardt’s name through their databases the day after he was reported missing. Further investigation revealed that he had reported his passport lost or stolen and had obtained a new one in May.

The sheriff’s office said the analysis of a laptop revealed a digital trail that showed Borgwardt planned to head to Europe and tried to mislead investigators.

The laptop’s hard drive had been replaced and the browsers had been cleared the day Borgwardt disappeared, the sheriff’s office said. Investigators found passport photos, inquiries about moving money to foreign banks, and communication with a woman from Uzbekistan.

They also discovered that he took out a $375,000 life insurance policy in January, although the policy was for his family and not him, the sheriff said.

Authorities tried every phone number and email address on the laptop in “a blitz fashion,” Podoll said. They eventually reached the Russian-speaking woman, who connected them with Borgwardt. It’s unclear whether she is the woman in Uzbekistan.

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Podoll said he wasn’t sure how Borgwardt was supporting himself but speculated he has a job: “He’s a smart guy.”

—Associated Press writer Scott Bauer in Madison contributed to this report.



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