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You don't 'hike' Fiery Furnace, Utah's exclusive maze of slot canyons. You get lost in it

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You don't 'hike' Fiery Furnace, Utah's exclusive maze of slot canyons. You get lost in it

“Is that the trail?” I asked Steve, my longtime adventuring buddy. Not out of frustration or worry. I was more amazed at how this trail was marked, which is hardly at all. So you know, Steve has led me off trail only once in 10 years along dozens of hikes. He’s that good as a navigator.

“Matt — any idea?” I asked my other friend, who was head down in his GPS app, trying to decipher the snaking mess that was our location against the supposed “trail.”

The official ranger-led hike is about two miles, but if you opt to explore on your own, your trek may be much longer.

(Blake Snow)

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Before I move on, you need to understand that GPS works only within 10 feet of your actual position, which is pretty amazing for triangulating satellites that are thousands of miles away. But not quite amazing enough for those afraid of getting lost on one of the most exclusive hikes in America: Utah’s Fiery Furnace in Arches National Park. One wrong step here, and you’ll be backtracking, head scratching and disorientingly wondering whether you’ll ever find the trail again in this maze of red rock, slot canyons, towering arches, divisive fins, giant spires and blue skies.

And that’s the fun of it. Here’s what you need to know — what I wish I’d known — before visiting this mostly safe and contained playground for an afternoon or more.

Utah’s Fiery Furnace is a 30-minute drive from Moab, Utah. It’s one of the only protected wilderness areas in the national park system. Open to only 75 people a day (and no reservations longer than seven days out), it’s also one of the hardest park permits to score. Compared to other hikes, Fiery Furnace is more of a moonshot when it comes to crossing its Martian terrain. “Everyone but the park rangers get lost,” our guide told us during a pre-hike orientation. “Not even GPS will save you, so it’s best just to meander and go with the flow.”

She was right about all but one thing: Although GPS tracking in the popular AllTrails app spectacularly failed to keep us on path, it did help us get out eventually so we could make it to our next hike in Arches. But if I could have a redo, I would have accepted the guide’s advice and planed for more time and mindless wandering in this special place among an already special southern Utah.

Towering red rocks at Fiery Furnace in Arches National Park.

Be sure to look up, down and all around as you walk through this otherworldly maze.

(Blake Snow)

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Speaking of the orientation, it’s mandatory. After picking up your $10 permit, you’re required to enter a small conference room and watch a 10-minute video about what the hike demands in terms of water, following the so-called trails and complying with the strict environmental and preservation regulations. You’ll even be verbally tested on what you watched, and the rangers won’t let you leave until you get the answers right.

After that, you’re on your own. Literally and figuratively.

During our hike, our party of three encountered just three other groups in the three hours we were inside. We jokingly exchanged pleasantries and accepted that none of us knew where we were going. But we did offer helpful tips of where we had been. “There’s a cool arch back there… Watch out for the giant gap ahead… Stay to the left or you’ll dead-end at a cliff.”

I say Fiery Furnace is mostly safe because I had to jump a gap and nearly tripped into what would have been severe injury some 20 to 30 feet below. Whoops. It’s not necessarily a physically demanding or overly technical experience. But parts of the furnace are tricky, and I wouldn’t advise anyone in poor shape to go inside. But able adults and sure-footed children regularly make their way through. For everyone else, there’s a stunning view of the furnace from the oncoming road and official viewpoint.

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Scenes from freelance writer Blake Snow's trip to the Fiery Furnace canyon in Arches National Park, Utah.

The view on a trip to the Fiery Furnace canyon in Arches National Park, Utah. (Blake Snow)

Blue skies and red rocks  in Arches National Park, Utah.

Blue skies and red rocks inside Arches National Park, Utah. (Blake Snow)

Three smiling people make hand gestures at Fiery Furnace.

The author, center, and his hiking pals made it out of Fiery Furnace in time for their next Utah trek.

(Blake Snow)

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While hiking the furnace, you can expect several arches, a sea of balancing rocks and mushroom like toadstools, massive cliff walls, incredibly tight slot canyons, layers upon layers of sandstone fins that divide the landscape and even a few open spaces. There are deep canyons, dead ends, sweeping vistas of distant formations elsewhere in the park, and a deafening amount of silence.

My friends and I lunched in the spring shade of Surprise Arch, a natural stone arch sandwiched between two massive rock walls. I have no idea how it or any of us got here. But there we were, dining al fresco in this otherworldly place.

If venturing the unknown of Fiery Furnace all alone doesn’t appeal to you, park rangers offer guided tours several times a day to permitted guests.

For the lucky few who enter Fiery Furnace, my advice is this: Get rid of your GPS — at least until you’re ready to leave. Plan for a few extra hours inside, if not an entire day. Meander. Get lost. By all means hike — but don’t expect your average point to point or loop trail. You probably won’t see the whole area, and that’s a good thing. There’s reason to return and have an experience that’s entirely new.

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The ranger was right. Just go inside and enjoy the view.

Lifestyle

‘House of the Dragon,’ Season 3, Episode 2: Honey, I’m home!

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‘House of the Dragon,’ Season 3, Episode 2: Honey, I’m home!

Emma D’Arcy (Rhaenyra).

Ollie Upton/HBO


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Ollie Upton/HBO

This is a recap of the most recent episode of HBO’s House of the Dragon. It contains spoilers. That’s what a recap is. 

Credits! As you’d expect, last week’s Battle of the Gullet earns some new thread in the Die, You! Tapestry — there’s Sharako and Corlys goin’ at it. And there’s poor dead Jacaerys, looking for all the world like your gramma’s tomato pincushion. (I’ve only just realized that when you see blood pooling around a figure in the tapestry, it means they’re dead. Both Sharako and Jacaerys get scarlet blooms — but not Corlys. Hunh.)

We open on the smoking aftermath of the sea-battle, and then we see Rhaena, whose attempt to help Team Black turned into a big ol’ whoopsiedoodle, tearing away on Sheepstealer looking well and truly freaked. (To be clear, Rhaena’s the one who looks freaked; Sheepstealer’s just like, “Welp, my work is done here. Gotta be hitchin’ a ride on the wiiiiind.”)

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They don’t close-caption a character’s internal monologue, but from the expression on her face, Rhaena’s would read something along the lines of “Ohcrapohcrapohcrapohcrapohcrap.”

Rhaena (Phoebe Campbell).

Rhaena (Phoebe Campbell).

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Theo Whiteman/HBO

On Dragonstone, the dragonkeepers receive Jacaerys’ corpse and sort of crowd-surf it into the castle like he’s Peter Gabriel during “Lay Your Hands On Me.” Sir Lorent Marbrand, Rhaenyra’s less-than-loyal royal guard, asks a shaken Baela: “The battle?” to which she responds, shakily, “T’is won.”

Which is helpful to know, because from where I’m sitting it looked like a pretty unilateral, omnidirectional clustermess.

If you thought the creators of the show were gonna spare us seeing Rhaenyra’s reaction to Jacaerys’ death (and duly supply Emma D’Arcy with their Emmy clip in the process), you were much mistaken. It’s pretty wrenching stuff. And speaking of wrenching: When Ser Lorent attempts to pull Rhaenyra away from her son’s body, she wrenches out of his grip and turns on him, along with the rest of her Small Council, which has shrunk to just two dudes so now must technically be referred to as her Tiny Council.

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Sunday Puzzle: That’s HOT!

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Sunday Puzzle: That’s HOT!

Sunday Puzzle

NPR


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Sunday Puzzle

On-air challenge

Today’s theme is “hot.” Every answer is a familiar two-word phrase in which the first word starts HO- and the second word starts with T-.

Ex. Rowdy bar with country music, in slang –> HONKY TONK
1. Guided walkthrough of a property
2. Any member of the N.H.L.
3. Lone Star State metropolis that’s the fourth-largest city in the U.S.
4. Like an animal with its four legs bound (hyph.)
5. Instruction manual (hyph.)
6. A little pompous and arrogant, informally (hyph.)
7. Punny greeting from a magician
8. Someone who steals animals from a stable
9. Congestion that drivers encounter around July 4th, say
10. Acquisition of a company against its will.
11. Exclamation for “wow!” on TV’s “Batman”

Last week’s challenge

Last week’s challenge comes from Evan Kalish, of Bayside, N.Y. Take the name of a nocturnal creature, in two words. The first word is a spooky sound. Move the last letter of the first word to the start of the second word and you’ll get another spooky, nocturnal sound. What is the creature and what are the sounds?

Answer: Screech owl –> howl

Winner

Dan Sadoff of St. Paul, Minnesota

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This week’s challenge

This week’s challenge comes from Rawson Sheinberg. of Plymouth, Mich. Think of a U.S. city with a two-word name. Add a letter to the first word, without rearranging letters, to name a country. Then, without adding a letter, rearrange the letters of the second word to name another country. What places are these?

If you know the answer to the challenge, submit it here by Thursday, July 2 at 3 p.m. ET. Listeners whose answers are selected win a chance to play the on-air puzzle. Important: include a phone number where we can reach you.

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This mindset shift can help you get better at using up your leftovers

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This mindset shift can help you get better at using up your leftovers

If you’re struggling to use up leftovers like a half-eaten rotisserie chicken, turn the assignment into a creative exercise, says chef Margaret Li. It’ll make the cooking process more fun and less guilt-driven.

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On a recent weeknight, I opened up my fridge and found an assortment of half-eaten or ignored food.

That included takeout that I didn’t find appetizing enough to eat for lunch. A rotisserie chicken with most of the meat picked off. A couple of raw vegetables from the farmers market that were starting to wilt.

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“There’s nothing to eat,” I told myself. Yet even I knew that was ridiculous. There was plenty of food in my fridge. I just didn’t feel inspired to cook with it.

So I asked some chefs for guidance. How could I more consistently use leftovers and the other ingredients I tend to overlook?

Start with a mindset shift, says Margaret Li, chef and co-author of the cookbook Perfectly Good Food: A Totally Achievable Zero Waste Approach to Home Cooking. Think about cooking with leftovers as a creative, experimental exercise, not a guilt-driven one.

“It ends up being this fun game where you are creating something from what seems like nothing and solving this puzzle, and then you get to eat it,” she says.

There are other good reasons to use up your food scraps. Nationally, about a quarter of food products go to waste, according to the nonprofit ReFED. In my own household, where we spend about $200 a week on groceries, that means I might be throwing out the equivalent of $50 of food — an unnecessary burden on my wallet, not to mention the environment.

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The chefs I spoke to had some practical tips about using up more of the food we buy. Here are a few that I put to the test.

Find your “hero recipes”

Build up an arsenal of go-to recipes that are flexible enough to use up just about any ingredient. Li calls them “hero recipes.”

I tried one of these from her cookbook, called “Make-It-Your-Own Stir-Fry.” (Scroll down for the recipe.) It includes loose ingredients like “1 pound crisp-crunchy vegetables” or “4 cups leafy greens.”

In the spirit of the recipe, I pulled vegetables out of my fridge at random and did not measure them out. The sauce was a simple mixture of soy sauce, vinegar, sugar and water. By the time I topped my bowl with chopped scallions, the dish looked like a gourmet meal, not an afterthought.

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