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We designed a 'Morning Edition' fragrance – and learned why perfume sales are up

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We designed a 'Morning Edition' fragrance – and learned why perfume sales are up

Customers walk-in to Olfactory NYC at their Georgetown location on Thursday May 16, 2024.

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In a well-lit storefront along the main drag of Washington D.C.’s upscale Georgetown neighborhood, Olfactory NYC CEO JJ Vittoria stands in front of a wall of perfume bottles.

The store is bustling with people on a mission to design their own fragrances. I’m here on perhaps the weirdest, and definitely most pungent, assignment I’ve ever gotten at NPR: to make a signature scent for Morning Edition and Up First.

The process at Olfactory NYC requires a lot of sniffing, and with the help of a personal scent-ologist, customers leave the store with a personalized bottle of perfume for $85.

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To capture the essence of a daily morning news radio show and podcast in the form of a scent, Vittoria suggests a base with hints of lemon, white tea and bergamot — “fresh out of the shower notes,” as he describes them.

A scent-ologist smells a tester at the Olfactory NYC in Georgetown on Thursday May 16, 2024.

A scent-ologist smells a tester at the Olfactory NYC in Georgetown on Thursday May 16, 2024.

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Perfume sales have risen since 2018.

But how are fragrance brands drawing in customers in an era of digital shopping?

A new generation of beauty product lovers are discovering fragrances on social media, and perfumers are experimenting with creative ways to move their products.

Vittoria’s new Washington D.C. store joins three locations in New York and one in Boston. Vittoria knows his way around the scents in his store, but he isn’t a perfumer by trade. He has a finance background and saw an opening in the world of fragrance for an experiential format that can educate new “frag heads,” as he calls them.

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“Fragrance can be a very sterile experience,” Vittoria said. “I just felt like there was room to change that. You come in here, it’s bright, it’s colorful, it’s supposed to be inviting. We’re supposed to just have people walk up the street and get into the world of perfumery, and that’s what we’re trying to do.”

Customers sit down at the counter in Olfactory NYC in Georgetown on Thursday May 16, 2024.

Customers sit down at the counter in Olfactory NYC in Georgetown on Thursday May 16, 2024.

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Lauren Goodsitt, who analyzes beauty and personal care trends for the market research firm Mintel, says Olfactory NYC’s business model has hit on something consumers are looking for right now — the desire to smell unique.

She says people who don’t have the money to create a personalized perfume will use other techniques, like layering perfumes and scented body oils, to get an individualized scent.

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“The data really does suggest that consumers are interested in customizable formats and that they are using their fragrance as a reflection of their mood as well as their individuality,” Goodsitt said. “There is this need to smell different or to want to smell unique.”

A search for “#perfumetok” on TikTok yields tips on how to get there, as well as influencers touting their favorite fragrance brands.

Some of those brands offer discovery sets, or a set of sample bottles, so customers can more easily find a scent that fits them without ever having to go to the store.

Walter Johnsen, the vice president of product development at InterParfums, says social media puts information about the world of perfume right at people’s fingertips, which is leading to growing interest in the industry. InterParfums designs fragrances for brands like DKNY and Oscar de la Renta.

JJ Vittoria, CEO of Olfactory NYC, mixes multiple oils into strips of paper at their Georgetown location on Thursday May 16, 2024.

JJ Vittoria, CEO of Olfactory NYC, mixes multiple oils into strips of paper at their Georgetown location on Thursday May 16, 2024.

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Johnsen says he’s noticing people in their late teens and early twenties buying more different kinds of perfumes and using them more often.

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“This generation is basically saying that they are buying fragrances that they feel very personal about,” Johnsen said. “They buy fragrances that make them feel good,”.

Back at Olfactory NYC, 23-year-old friends Lauren Reyes and Andrea Mariscal Guzman are working on their perfumes.

Reyes says her mom has always had a signature scent — and she wants that too, now that she’s out of college and starting her professional life.

“I think that both of my standards in which I look also have to be represented in how I smell,” Reyes said. “I can’t look beautiful and smell not beautiful.”

Customers smell some of the tester fragrances at Olfactory NYC at their Georgetown location on Thursday May 16, 2024.

Customers smell some of the tester fragrances at Olfactory NYC at their Georgetown location on Thursday May 16, 2024.

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At the Olfactory bar, CEO Vittoria and I continue our quest to capture the aura of Morning Edition in a fragrance. He blots oils onto strips of paper and I sniff the combinations he layers over our base of lemon, white tea and bergamot. We settled on adding some grapefruit notes. It brings out the citrus to conjure a fresh, breakfast-y start to the day.

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It’s a combination of scents I wouldn’t have had the vocabulary to describe before setting foot in Olfactory, but does manage to make me think of the morning news somehow.

“You do still need a bit of that touch and smell kind of experience,” Vittoria says. “Smell is something that is very animalistic. It’s something that is very core to us.”

This story was edited by Obed Manuel.

Lifestyle

Doctors says ‘The Pitt’ reflects the gritty realities of medicine today

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Doctors says ‘The Pitt’ reflects the gritty realities of medicine today

From left: Noah Wyle plays Dr. Michael “Robby” Robinavitch, the senior attending physician, and Fiona Dourif plays Dr. Cassie McKay, a third-year resident, in a fictional Pittsburgh emergency department in the HBO Max series The Pitt.

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The first five minutes of the new season of The Pitt instantly capture the state of medicine in the mid-2020s: a hectic emergency department waiting room; a sign warning that aggressive behavior will not be tolerated; a memorial plaque for victims of a mass shooting; and a patient with large Ziploc bags filled to the brink with various supplements and homeopathic remedies.

Scenes from the new installment feel almost too recognizable to many doctors.

The return of the critically acclaimed medical drama streaming on HBO Max offers viewers a surprisingly realistic view of how doctors practice medicine in an age of political division, institutional mistrust and the corporatization of health care.

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Each season covers one day in the kinetic, understaffed emergency department of a fictional Pittsburgh hospital, with each episode spanning a single hour of a 15-hour shift. That means there’s no time for romantic plots or far-fetched storylines that typically dominate medical dramas.

Instead, the fast-paced show takes viewers into the real world of the ER, complete with a firehose of medical jargon and the day-to-day struggles of those on the frontlines of the American health care system. It’s a microcosm of medicine — and of a fragmented United States.

Many doctors and health professionals praised season one of the series, and ER docs even invited the show’s star Noah Wyle to their annual conference in September.

So what do doctors think of the new season? As a medical student myself, I appreciated the dig at the “July effect” — the long-held belief that the quality of care decreases in July when newbie doctors start residency — rebranded “first week in July syndrome” by one of the characters.

That insider wink sets the tone for a season that Dr. Alok Patel, a pediatrician at Stanford Medicine Children’s Health, says is on point. Patel, who co-hosts the show’s companion podcast, watched the first nine episodes of the new installment and spoke to NPR about his first impressions.

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To me, as a medical student, the first few scenes of the new season are pretty striking, and they resemble what modern-day emergency medicine looks and sounds like. From your point of view, how accurate is it?

I’ll say off the bat, when it comes to capturing the full essence of practicing health care — the highs, the lows and the frustrations — The Pitt is by far the most medically accurate show that I think has ever been created. And I’m not the only one to share that opinion. I hear that a lot from my colleagues.

OK, but is every shift really that chaotic?

I mean, obviously, it’s television. And I know a lot of ER doctors who watch the show and are like, “Hey, it’s really good, but not every shift is that crazy.” I’m like, “Come on, relax. It’s TV. You’ve got to take a little bit of liberties.”

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As in its last season, The Pitt sheds light on the real — sometimes boring — bureaucratic burdens doctors deal with that often get in the way of good medicine. How does that resonate with real doctors?

There are so many topics that affect patient care that are not glorified. And so The Pitt did this really artful job of inserting these topics with the right characters and the right relatable scenarios. I don’t want to give anything away, but there’s a pretty relatable issue in season two with medical bills.

Right. Insurance seems to take center stage at times this season — almost as a character itself — which seems apt for this moment when many Americans are facing a sharp rise in costs. But these mundane — yet heartbreaking — moments don’t usually make their way into medical dramas, right?

I guarantee when people see this, they’re going to nod their head because they know someone who has been affected by a huge hospital bill.

If you’re going to tell a story about an emergency department that is being led by these compassionate health care workers doing everything they can for patients, you’ve got to make sure you insert all of health care into it.

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As the characters juggle multiple patients each hour, a familiar motif returns: medical providers grappling with some heavy burdens outside of work.

Yeah, the reality is that if you’re working a busy shift and you have things happening in your personal life, the line between personal life and professional life gets blurred and people have moments.

The Pitt highlights that and it shows that doctors are real people. Nurses are actual human beings. And sometimes things happen, and it spills out into the workplace. It’s time we take a step back and not only recognize it, but also appreciate what people are dealing with.

2025 was another tough year for doctors. Many had to continue to battle misinformation while simultaneously practicing medicine. How does medical misinformation fit into season two?

I wouldn’t say it’s just mistrust of medicine. I mean that theme definitely shows up in The Pitt, but people are also just confused. They don’t know where to get their information from. They don’t know who to trust. They don’t know what the right decision is.

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There’s one specific scene in season two that, again, no spoilers here, but involves somebody getting their information from social media. And that again is a very real theme.

In recent years, physical and verbal abuse of healthcare workers has risen, fueling mental health struggles among providers. The Pitt was praised for diving into this reality. Does it return this season?

The new season of The Pitt still has some of that tension between patients and health care professionals — and sometimes it’s completely projected or misdirected. People are frustrated, they get pissed off when they can’t see a doctor in time and they may act out.

The characters who get physically attacked in The Pitt just brush it off. That whole concept of having to suppress this aggression and then the frustration that there’s not enough protection for health care workers, that’s a very real issue.

A new attending physician, Dr. Baran Al-Hashimi, joins the cast this season. Sepideh Moafi plays her, and she works closely with the veteran attending physician, Dr. Michael “Robby” Robinavitch, played by Noah Wyle. What are your — and Robby’s — first impressions of her?

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Right off the bat in the first episode, people get to meet this brilliant firecracker. Dr. Al-Hashimi, versus Dr. Robby, almost represents two generations of attending physicians. They’re almost on two sides of this coin, and there’s a little bit of clashing.

Sepideh Moafi, fourth from left, as Dr. Baran Al-Hashimi, the new attending physician, huddles with her team around a patient in a fictional Pittsburgh teaching hospital in the HBO Max series The Pitt.

Sepideh Moafi, fourth from left, as Dr. Baran Al-Hashimi, the new attending physician, huddles with her team around a patient in a fictional Pittsburgh teaching hospital in the HBO Max series The Pitt.

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Part of that clash is her clear-eyed take on artificial intelligence and its role in medicine. And she thinks AI can help doctors document what’s happening with patients — also called charting — right?

Yep, Dr. Al-Hashimi is an advocate for AI tools in the ER because, I swear to God, they make health care workers’ lives more efficient. They make things such as charting faster, which is a theme that shows up in season two.

But then Dr. Robby gives a very interesting rebuttal to the widespread use of AI. The worry is that if we put AI tools everywhere, then all of a sudden, the financial arm of health care would say, “Cool, now you can double how many patients you see. We will not give you any more resources, but with these AI tools, you can generate more money for the system.”

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The new installment also continues to touch on the growing corporatization of medicine. In season one we saw how Dr. Robby and his staff were being pushed to see more patients.

Yes, it really helps the audience understand the kind of stressors that people are dealing with while they’re just trying to take care of patients.

In the first season, when Dr. Robby kind of had that back and forth with the hospital administrator, doctors were immediately won over because that is such a big point of frustration — such a massive barrier.

There are so many more themes explored this season. What else should viewers look forward to?

I’m really excited for viewers to dive into the character development. It’s so reflective of how it really goes in residency. So much happens between your first year and second year of residency — not only in terms of your medical skill, but also in terms of your development as a person.

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I think what’s also really fascinating is that The Pitt has life lessons buried in every episode. Sometimes you catch it immediately, sometimes it’s at the end, sometimes you catch it when you watch it again.

But it represents so much of humanity because humanity doesn’t get put on hold when you get sick — you just go to the hospital with your full self. And so every episode — every patient scenario — there is a lesson to learn.

Michal Ruprecht is a Stanford Global Health Media Fellow and a fourth-year medical student.

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In Beauty, Private Equity Is Hot Again

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In Beauty, Private Equity Is Hot Again
As strategic firms slow down their shopping sprees and venture capital dollars dry up, PE firms’ reputation for asset stripping is a thing of the past. Founders are now often hoping for private equity buyouts, but want to be sure there can be a true partnership.
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Lifestyle

10 books we’re looking forward to in early 2026

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10 books we’re looking forward to in early 2026

Two fiction books about good friends coming from different circumstances. Two biographies of people whose influence on American culture is, arguably, still underrated. One Liza Minnelli memoir. These are just a handful of books coming out in the first few months of 2026 that we’ve got our eye on.

Fiction

Autobiography of Cotton, by Cristina Rivera Garza

Autobiography of Cotton, by Cristina Rivera Garza, Feb. 3

Garza, who won a Pulitzer in 2024 for memoir/autobiography, actually first published Autobiography of Cotton back in 2020, but it’s only now getting an English translation. The book blends fiction with the author’s own familial history to tell the story of cotton cultivation along the U.S.-Mexico border.

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Crux, by Gabriel Tallent

Crux, by Gabriel Tallent, Jan. 20

Tallent’s last novel, My Absolute Darling, was a harrowing coming of age story about a teenage girl surviving her abusive survivalist father. But it did find pockets of beauty in the outdoors. Tallent’s follow up looks to be similarly awestruck by nature. It’s about two young friends, separated by class and opportunity, but bound together by a love of rock climbing.

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Half His Age, by Jennette McCurdy

Half His Age, by Jennette McCurdy, Jan. 20

The former iCarly actress’ bracing and brutally honest memoir, I’m Glad My Mom Died, was a huge hit. It spent weeks on bestseller’s lists, and is being adapted into a series for Apple TV+. Now McCurdy’s set to come out with her fiction debut, about a teenage girl who falls for her high school creative writing teacher.

Kin, by Tayari Jones

Kin, by Tayari Jones, Feb. 24

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Similarly to Crux, Kin also follows two friends across the years as options and opportunities pull them apart. The friends at the center of this book are two women who grew up without moms. Jones’ last novel, 2018’s An American Marriage, was a huge hit with critics.

Seasons of Glass & Iron, by Amal El-Mohtar

Seasons of Glass & Iron: Stories, by Amal El-Mohtar, March 24

El-Mohtar is an acclaimed science-fiction writer, and this book is a collection of previously published short stories and poetry. Many of the works here have been honored by the big science-fiction/fantasy awards, including the titular story, which is a feminist re-telling of two fairy tales.

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Nonfiction

A Hymn to Life: Shame Has to Change Sides, by Gisèle Pelicot

A Hymn to Life: Shame Has to Change Sides, by Gisèle Pelicot, Feb. 17

Pelicot’s story of rape and sexual assault – and her decision to wave anonymity in the trial – turned her into a galvanizing figure for women across the world. Her writing her own story of everything that happened is also a call to action for others to do the same.

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Cosmic Music: The Life, Art, and Transcendence of Alice Coltrane, by Andy Beta

Cosmic Music: The Life, Art, and Transcendence of Alice Coltrane, by Andy Beta, March 3

For decades, the life and work of Alice Coltrane has lived in the shadow of her husband, John Coltrane. This deeply researched biography hopes to properly contextualize her as one of the most visionary and influential musicians of her time.

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Football, by Chuck Klosterman

Football, by Chuck Klosterman, Jan. 20

One of our great essaysists and (over?) thinkers turns his sights onto one of the last bits of monoculture we’ve got. But in one of the pieces in this collection, Klosterman wonders, how long until football is no longer the summation of American culture? But until that time comes, there’s plenty to dig into from gambling to debates over the true goat.

Kids, Wait Till You Hear This! by Liza Minnelli

Kids, Wait Till You Hear This! by Liza Minnelli, with Michael Feinstein, March 20

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Minnelli told People that previous attempts at telling her story “didn’t get it right,” so she’s doing it herself. This new memoir promises to get into her childhood, her marriages, and her struggles with substance abuse.

Tom Paine’s War: The Words that Rallied a Nation and the Founder of Our Time, by Jack Kelly

Tom Paine’s War: The Words that Rallied a Nation and the Founder of Our Time, by Jack Kelly, Jan. 6

If you haven’t heard, it’s a big birthday year for America. And it’s a birthday that might not have happened if not for the words of Thomas Paine. This new book from historian Jack Kelly makes the argument that Paine’s words are just as important and relevant to us today.

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