Lifestyle
On Highway 78, I watched the valleys awaken in vibrant blooms — a dramatic springtime show
In early spring, the California mountain town of Julian sits suspended between seasons. At more than 4,000 feet, up in the Cuyamaca Mountains, it rests among coastal live oak woodlands and Coulter pine forests. Snow sometimes dusts the surrounding slopes, melting by afternoon into damp earth as manzanita and mountain lilac begin to flower. Along Main Street, the mingled scents of woodsmoke and apple pie drift from storefronts.
It is here that my journey along State Route 78 begins, following its long eastward descent from the mountain forest into the stark badlands of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, then skirting the southern edge of the Salton Sea, crossing the Algodones Dunes and continuing toward the Colorado River — a 140-mile corridor spanning one of the most dramatic ecological transitions across public lands in the American Southwest.
This road trip continues a series exploring California’s overlooked scenic highways, inspired in part by artist Earl Thollander’s “Back Roads of California,” whose sketches and travel notes celebrated a slower way of seeing. After tracing Highway 127 along the edge of Death Valley, the journey now shifts south.
Julian Cafe and Bakery, the start of the trip off Route 78.
(Josh Jackson)
Within minutes of leaving town, the pavement twists downward through tight turns and steep grades as the mountain air begins to warm, the vegetation giving way to chaparral and scattered juniper, then to the stark silhouettes of ocotillo and Mojave yucca. By the time it reaches the Pacific Crest Trail crossing 12 miles east of Julian, travelers have already descended nearly 2,000 feet.
Here, the highway passes quietly into Anza-Borrego, homeland of the Kumeyaay, Cahuilla and Cupeño peoples. At nearly 650,000 acres — just smaller than Yosemite — the park unfolds as a vast mosaic of mountains, badlands and open desert valleys extending far beyond the reach of the pavement.
Wildflowers along the route.
(Josh Jackson)
Bri Fordem, executive director of the Anza-Borrego Foundation, said the landscape reveals itself slowly to first-time visitors. “I think a lot of people drive right by it and go, ‘Oh yeah, there’s a desert there,’” she said. “But when you stop and you go a little slower and take a closer look, a whole world opens up.”
That invitation begins at mile 18, where the Yaqui Pass Road turnoff leads northeast toward the desert basin and the gateway community of Borrego Springs. The 2.8-mile Borrego Palm Canyon Trail offers one of the park’s most accessible routes into the desert’s interior. Cholla gardens and brittlebush rise from pale alluvial slopes, and a seasonal stream leads to one of California’s few native fan palm oases.
In wet winters, the valleys beyond town awaken in color as sand verbena, desert sunflower, evening primrose and pincushion gather in brief, luminous blooms across the desert floor. The Anza-Borrego Foundation tracks these seasonal displays and offers guidance on how to witness them responsibly.
The short detour returns to Highway 78 along Borrego Springs Road, where the pavement drops abruptly through the Texas Dip near mile 27 — a stark, cinematic wash where scenes from the closing sequence of “One Battle After Another” were filmed. Wandering through the wash, the mind drifts not to the film but to the flash floods that move through this channel after heavy rains, sudden torrents cutting and reshaping the valley floor in a matter of hours.
Ocotillo plants rise up from the desert floor in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.
(Josh Jackson)
The sun hangs in the middle of the sky as I drive toward one of the most rapidly changing shorelines in California. From almost any vantage point, the Salton Sea appears lifeless — a gray expanse rimmed with salt and windblown dust. But at its southern terminus, that impression begins to shift. The basin gathers into shallow wetlands where movement returns to the landscape.
Sixty miles from Julian, I turn onto Bannister Road and bump north along a gravel track for three miles into the basin, to a parking lot 164 feet below sea level. The lot sits within Unit 1 of the Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge. A short walk along an irrigation canal leads to a weathered observation deck rising two stories above a patchwork of saturated flats where saltgrass, iodine bush and cattail take root. Here, the Pacific Flyway compresses into a living mosaic of wings, water and soil. Each spring, hundreds of thousands of birds gather here to feed and rest before lifting north again, following migratory paths far older than the farms and highways that now define the valley.
The wetlands near the Salton Sea provide a vital habitat for birds.
(Josh Jackson)
The place overwhelms the senses: a wash of emerald against open sky, thousands of snow geese honking in chorus, orange-crowned warblers and Abert’s towhees singing in the trees, and the persistent tang of salt in the air.
I meet three birders standing quietly on the platform, scanning the horizon through binoculars and recounting the 73 avian species they had tallied over the last two days — burrowing owls, American avocets, sandhill cranes and black-necked stilts among them. For 30 minutes we watch a northern harrier on the hunt, dive-bombing blue-winged and cinnamon teal, though he always comes up empty. Between scans of the horizon, we bond over “Listers,” the 2025 documentary that turns obsessive birdwatching into both comedy and a tale of devotion.
A burrowing owl stands in the Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge.
(Josh Jackson)
Leaving the refuge, the vibrant color palette and moisture give way to muted browns and the returning austerity of desert air. By mile 97, the road rises to the Hugh T. Osborne Overlook, where the landscape shifts once again, opening into a vast ocean of sand.
The Algodones Dunes stretch toward the horizon in pale, wind-sculpted ridges, a narrow ribbon of shifting terrain running south into Mexico. The highway passes directly through their center.
From the overlook, the road reads as a line dividing two expressions of the same dune system. To the south lie the Bureau of Land Management’s Imperial Sand Dunes, where dune buggies and motorcycles trace arcs across bare slopes. North of the pavement, the North Algodones Dunes Wilderness holds a quieter terrain, where sunflower, ephedra and honey mesquite anchor the sand in subtle defiance of the wind.
A person walks along the Algodones Dunes.
(Josh Jackson)
Here the road becomes a boundary between different ways of moving through — and loving — the same landscape: speed and stillness, noise and silence, crowds and solitude.
By late afternoon, the final miles carry me east toward the Colorado River, where it meanders past willow and cottonwood. The light softened toward sunset, an evening echo of the same violet sky that hovered over Julian at the start of the day. After 140 miles, my road trip had come to an end. Yet as I pitched my tent that night, the motion of the landscapes lingered in mind.
The Colorado continued its long course south. Snow geese lifted north from refuge marshes. Wind reshaped the dunes, erasing the day’s tracks. Wildflowers that had briefly lit the desert floor would soon fade as heat gathered strength. The road ended, but the living systems it crossed moved steadily onward, already turning toward the next season.
Road trip planner: State Route 78
Highway 78 illustrated map.
(Illustrated map by Noah Smith)
The route: Julian to Palo Verde.
Distance: 140 miles (one way).
Drive time: 3 hours straight through; allow a full day for stops.
Best time to go: October through April. Summer temperatures frequently exceed 110 degrees.
Fuel and essentials:
- Julian (Mile 0): Gas station, Julian Market and Deli, lots of restaurants.
- Borrego Springs (Mile 18): Gas station, groceries, cafes.
- Brawley (Mile 74): Gas station, restaurants.
Eat and drink:
Camping:
Lodging:
Hike and explore:
Safety notes:
- Water: Carry at least 1 gallon per person per day.
- Connectivity: Cell service is dependable along the route.
- Wildlife: Watch for bighorn sheep and coyotes on the road, especially at dawn and dusk.
Wildflowers along Highway 78.
(Josh Jackson)
Lifestyle
At the ‘Euphoria’ Wedding, All Eyes Were on the Guests
During Sunday night’s season 3 episode of HBO’s Gen Z drama “Euphoria,” viewers found themselves watching yet another messy, disastrous and unhinged wedding unfold onscreen — which was probably inevitable considering that it centered on the wedding of the delusional Cassie (Sydney Sweeney) and the toxic Nate (Jacob Elordi).
Before the ceremony, Nate experiences a panic attack. His ex-girlfriend, Maddy (Alexa Demie), tries to pull a power move by showing up to the event. The wedding dance is tacky and strange, and the night ends in an absolute nightmare. (Details will be spared to avoid spoilers.)
But perhaps what had the internet talking the most were the fashion choices of the wedding guests, particularly Cassie and Nate’s former high school classmates.
There was Maddy, Cassie’s former best friend, in a striking, revealing green dress with a beaded back, paired with a fur shawl. “We see a lot of power dynamics between Maddy and Cassie this season,” Natasha Newman-Thomas, the show’s costume designer, said in an interview. “And it had to be something equally powerful to Cassie’s dress if Maddy is going to show up to this thing.”
There was Jules (Hunter Schafer), who wore another revealing look — a dusty blue Acne Studios runway gown, which Newman-Thomas described as “a representation of her newfound status,” pointing to the character’s shift to a more elevated style since she began dating an older, wealthy man. Jules had her own reasons to show off at this wedding, where she was seeing many of her former high school classmates for the first time in over four years.
Jules was color coordinated with Rue (Zendaya), who picked a vintage men’s suit paired with, yes, dirty Converse. Her signature Chuck Taylors were a must at the request of Sam Levinson, the showrunner, who “really wanted Rue to be in her Converse throughout the entire third season to represent her lack of emotional development between the Season 2 and Season 3 jump,” Newman-Thomas said.
And there was BB (Sophia Rose Wilson), who arrived in a red minidress with a slit in the midsection that revealed her pregnant belly. It looked like a club outfit from 2019, when Season 1 aired. That, too, is reflective of her character: “She kind of just shows up in something maybe akin to what she would have worn in high school, in this kind of garish full stomach out, no-class outfit,” Newman-Thomas said.
Each fashion choice reflects both the character’s personal style and emotional state. And while some viewers have discussed how untraditional their ceremony outfits were, that’s exactly the point.
“These aren’t very buttoned-up characters,” Newman-Thomas said. “We’ve met them in the past, and we’ve lived with them.”
“It’s not a traditional wedding in the sense that it’s ‘Euphoria,’” she said, adding that “it should feel a bit surreal and exciting.” After all, the girls showed up to high school in previous seasons in mini skirts, crop tops, iridescent eye makeup and tiny purses (not backpacks).
But “Euphoria” also possesses a keen sense for capturing the mood and style of Gen Z, a demographic now entering its wedding era. And the characters’ fashion choices reflect more of an openness to veering away from traditional wedding dress codes.
There are plenty of real-life examples. Earlier this year, Amber Rose wore a deep plunge halter dress to the wedding of the Republican strategist Alex Bruesewitz. Kendall Jenner wore a very little black dress at her friend Lauren Perez’s wedding in 2021. On social media, some guests have even shared that they have attended weddings with a dress code to “upstage the bride,” where guests wear their most flashy and outrageous outfits. (Think hot pink suit with ruffles and lantern-like fringe headpieces that cover the face.)
“Couples are encouraging their guests to express more of their individual style,” said Corinne Pierre-Louis, a bridal stylist and fashion editor, of contemporary dress codes. “In the past, it used to be: black tie, formal, or semiformal.” But in recent years, she has worked with couples who have had dress codes like “seaside elegance,” “Mediterranean chic,” and “come as you are,” which was perhaps the code for Cassie and Nate’s wedding, she said, jokingly.
While the show’s fashion choices are naturally a bit inflated, they are aligned with the wedding culture of a younger generation, for which personal style and self-expression might take precedence over etiquette.
“It’s kind of poking fun at the fact that the wedding guest fashion is changing, and let’s see how far we can stretch it with this exaggerated cast,” Pierre-Louis said. “Gen Z, they’ve seen their parents and older generations get married and they see photos, and they think it’s stuffy and they want something unique and trendy.”
But, Pierre-Louis said she probably wouldn’t advise a client to wear a dress like the one that Jules or Maddy wore: “You don’t want to give the grandmother a heart attack.”
Lifestyle
Naked and unafraid at 73, she’s challenging ideas about aging women on a Hollywood stage
Telling her life story — naked onstage — was the only way.
That much, Pamela Redmond was sure of.
It was a sweltering July afternoon last year and Redmond was sitting on the sofa in her Hollywood home stewing over how AI was nearly putting her out of business. At 72, she had published 20 books, seven of them works of fiction, and she’d even sold one novel, “Younger,” as a hit television series. She was the founder of the largest baby naming website online which, as a single divorcee, was her lifeline financially (and meant to be her retirement). But AI had scraped her website’s content and used it to rank itself higher in search results; her company’s revenue had plummeted by about half and she’d had to let employees go.
“I thought: What can I bring to the conversation that AI can’t?” Redmond says. “And then it came to me: a body!”
She felt compelled to create an in-person experience that was distinctly human — something true and personal — the antithesis of the digitally-saturated, fragmented and ephemeral world we live in, where truth is often opaque. Though she had zero theatrical experience, not even in a high school musical, theater is what came to mind.
“I decided I wanted to tell the story of my life, as told by my body. That’s how I came up with a one-woman show, ‘Old Woman Naked.’”
Pamela Redmond, right, chats with Los Angeles Times writer Deborah Vankin about her solo show, “Old Woman Naked.”
Telling me this, Redmond is sitting in a hot tub, nude, at Wi Spa in Koreatown. As am I. Because interviewing Redmond — naked in an intimate setting — seemed the best way to have a personal conversation about such a revealing topic. We’ve been friends for several years and it made sense to visit the Korean spa, at which we both feel comfortable.
Redmond sinks deeper into the steaming bath, the water level rising to her decolletage, leaving her face flushed as beads of sweat drip down the curve of her neck.
“Old Woman Naked” is about Redmond, but it’s also about being in a woman’s body, in America, at a certain time — from the pre-internet, ‘50s and ‘60s until today. Redmond performed it for one night only in New York City at the Laurie Beechman Theatre in October, directed and produced by Janice Maffei — just 10 weeks after she had conceived of it. The show opens April 29 in Los Angeles at the Broadwater in Hollywood for three nights, directed by Jennifer Chambers (“POTUS”). Kate Juergens and Jenn Gerstenblatt, both formerly of ABC Family, produced it.
In the hour-long performance, Redmond stands on a bare stage and tells intimate stories she hasn’t shared with anyone until now, not even her former husband of 33 years, her three children or her best girlfriends. She tells of her first stirrings of lust while she was growing up in Norwood, N.J., sparked by the desire to touch her best girlfriend’s breasts; she tells of being a 19-year-old child bride and how her new father-in-law took her to a strip club shortly after the wedding; she tells of her jealous first husband who, when she tried to leave him, held a knife to her throat and tried to rape her.
But she also tells of the thrill, and all-consuming love, tangled up in having children; of creative reinvention and late-life success publishing a novel at 50, creating an internet company at 55 and selling a book as a TV show at 60; and of the absolute freedom she felt after menopause, when she could no longer have children and her body, at long last, belonged only to her.
Pamela Redmond performs “Old Woman Naked” in New York in October 2025. (Scott Hoffmann)
As Redmond performs these stories during the show, she takes off her clothing, piece by piece, often cleverly stitched into the storytelling. At 11 years old, she explains onstage, she was desperate to wear a bra. “Now I feel like I’m 11, but with a drawer full of bras I never want to wear,” she reveals, letting the undergarment drop to the ground. By the end of the show, Redmond is facing the audience entirely naked.
Ultimately, that moment is the point of the show: proudly bringing an image that’s been culturally steeped in taboo and shame — that of an older woman’s bare body, with all its folds and dimples and curves — into the light.
“I wanted to show people what an older woman’s body actually looked like,” Redmond says. “Young women take their clothes off all the time, they’re scantily dressed onstage or using their body and their sexuality as part of their art. But older women — it’s just not seen. Or it’s seen as ugly. I knew right away: This is intrinsically different and kind of radical.”
Even as she was researching the show, Redmond became increasingly aware of the extent to which older women’s nude bodies “have been so hidden away.”
“There is so little art, so little pop culture [showing it],” she says. “I went to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the fourth-largest museum in the world, and searched their archives and there are six images from all of history. In the Louvre [in Paris], there are three drawings that show old women naked — and they’re grotesque. Representation is really important. It matters.”
Pamela Redmond, right, tells Times writer Deborah Vankin that she felt “on fire” writing her solo show. “I wanted to show people what an older woman’s body actually looked like.”
Redmond says she wasn’t nervous about being nude in front of a live audience. “I’ve been through so many things in my life that have been kind of harrowing,” she says. “I was scared about not remembering my lines. That terrified me!” But Redmond doesn’t consider herself an exhibitionist, either. She’s had a love-hate relationship with her body throughout her lifetime, she says. “You know, gaining and losing the same 40 pounds over and over.”
At one moment in the show, Redmond shows an overhead slide of herself at 22, posing for an artist friend, nude. She looks up at the image, admitting: “Look at me, I was a goddess. I had no idea. I thought I was fat, unfashionably curvy and unattractive.”
If there is a message to the show, Redmond says, it’s that “you are the sum of everything you’ve been and everything you’ve done. And to see yourself not just as this old body but as someone who’s lived this incredibly rich life in this body that has taken you through this incredible range of experiences.”
“Old Woman Naked” hit a nerve that night in New York, Redmond says. Audience members — mostly women, older and younger — came up to her afterward and revealed personal stories they hadn’t told anyone to date. Other women said they were inspired by the play or felt they’d been given newfound freedom to be themselves.
Redmond has since fleshed out the Los Angeles version of the show, going deeper into stories and punching up the jokes.
She also sees “Old Woman Naked” as a much bigger creative gesture than a limited run solo show. She hopes to write a book expanding on the ideas in the show and, separately, self-publish the script to sell in the theater lobby, afterward. She’s thinking about a titular podcast, in which she’d interview women of different ages about their bodies and their lives. And she’s working with a theater director to develop the script of “Old Woman Naked” for a celebrity to star in.
Pamela Redmond, left, relaxes with Times writer Deborah Vankin at Wi Spa in Koreatown.
“I see it as Jessica Lange on Broadway,” Redmond says. “It’s like stealth feminism: They come for the nudity, they leave with their views of women’s bodies totally revolutionized. I want this to be a bigger conversation about women, aging, bodies, humanity, owning our individuality and uniqueness — and celebrating that.”
So what does Redmond see now, when she looks at her body in the mirror?
“I think I look great. I like what I see. I like my smile,” she says. “I’m good.”
Stepping out into the sunlit parking lot after our spa day, that smile is on full display.
“That was so fun,” Redmond says. “Our conversation — everything we talked about — it’s different when you’re naked, it really is. You’re just more open, more vulnerable.”
She takes a seat in the shade, waiting for the valet to bring her car.
“It’s the same with the show, the conversation I wanted to have with the audience. That’s why it had to be: ‘Old Woman Naked.’”
“Old Woman Naked” plays at the Broadwater, in Hollywood, April 29-30 and May 17. Tickets: $35.
Lifestyle
7 ‘Body Types’ in the Met’s ‘Costume Art’ Fashion Exhibition
Here’s a pop quiz: What do all 17 curatorial departments of the Metropolitan Museum of Art have in common?
It isn’t oil paint or excellent air-conditioning. “What connects them all is the dressed body,” said Andrew Bolton, the curator in charge of the Costume Institute, the Met’s fashion department.
Roam through the museum and you will see what he means. There are lacy bibs rendered one brushstroke at a time by the Dutch masters; iron breastplates hammered into shape by 18th-century Japanese armorers; a gossamer tutu wrapped around a bronze ballerina sculpted by Edgar Degas. Everywhere you turn, you’ll find bodies — bodies wearing clothes.
That recognition may be blisteringly obvious or revelatory, depending on your relationship to fashion. But it forms the foundation of “Costume Art,” the spring fashion exhibition opening May 10 after a starry kickoff at the Met Gala. The exhibition pairs almost 200 sculptures, drawings and other artworks with approximately 200 garments and accessories from the Costume Institute.
They are grouped into 13 “thematic body types,” some of which have names abstract enough to stump an art history major: the vital body, the reclaimed body and the inscribed body, among others. Bolton said the categories were drawn up to interrogate how fashion interacts with the breadth of human forms, including those that are tattooed or plus-size, pregnant or creased with age. Several sections made a point of “focusing on bodies that have not been socially valorized within Western culture,” he added.
The first stretch of the exhibition asks viewers to meditate on the things that make bodies different, while the second considers the features that all bodies share (like skeletons and veins, both of which are plentiful in a section devoted to the anatomical body).
“Because of the closeness of the body, fashion hasn’t been seen as a serious study of aesthetics,” Bolton said. The exhibition argues that fashion is just as valuable a discipline as painting or sculpture precisely because of its relationship to the human form.
I met Bolton in the museum’s basement the day before the pieces began being installed in the new Condé M. Nast Galleries upstairs. He offered a closer look at seven garments in the exhibition and the artworks that he had chosen to pair with them.
-
New York1 hour agoA Shelter’s Closing Is a Turning Point for Homeless Policy
-
Detroit, MI2 hours agoWhere to watch Detroit Tigers vs Atlanta Braves: TV channel, start time, streaming for Apr. 28
-
San Francisco, CA2 hours agoSan Francisco starts $4M removal of controversial Vaillancourt Fountain
-
Dallas, TX2 hours agoGame Day Guide: Stars vs Wild | Dallas Stars
-
Miami, FL2 hours agoA new airport? A larger port? All that was said at the ‘State of the Ports’ in Miami
-
Boston, MA2 hours agoLawsuit that alleges Boston is inflating commercial property taxes goes to court this week
-
Denver, CO2 hours agoPhoenix vs. Denver: How the Valley of the Sun Dethroned the Mile High City as the West’s Luxury Heavyweight
-
Seattle, WA2 hours agoVIDEO: Special delivery at West Seattle Bee Garden