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36 Hours in Provincetown, Mass.

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36 Hours in Provincetown, Mass.

9 a.m. Dig into diner classics

Comfort food is the specialty at Chach, located just northwest of the town’s center. A classic diner vibe is in full effect here, and tables of close friends pick up on the previous day’s conversations without missing a beat. Fuel yourself with vanilla-infused French toast topped with fresh fruit ($15) or eggs Benedict with applewood-smoked bacon, tomato and avocado ($17). You’ll find that same inviting atmosphere — and more brunch favorites — at the West End’s Liz’s Cafe, Anybody’s Bar, which also offers outdoor dining. Go for the chicken and waffles ($15) and order a plate of Portuguese flippers — sugar-dusted hole-less doughnuts ($11) — for the group.

10 a.m. Explore the dunes

Provincetown’s dunes occupy a prominent position within local lore; as the philosopher Henry David Thoreau wrote of them in 1865, one can look out “and put all America behind him.” Now part of the federally protected Cape Cod National Seashore, the dunes stretch out behind the length of the town like an unspoiled and uninhabited sandy backyard — with the exception of 19 shacks originally built for ocean rescuers that became off-the-grid getaways for writers and artists including Jack Kerouac and Jackson Pollock. The National Park Service provides free ranger-led walks into the dunes. Experienced hikers can explore on their own by following the Dune Shacks Trail for about two miles north from where Snail Road meets Route 6. For a less strenuous hourlong journey, hop into one of Art’s Dune Tours’ S.U.V.s ($41), driven by guides well versed in the terrain and its tales.

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1:30 p.m. Picnic on the beach

Since you’re now a bit sweaty, return to the center of town to pick up sandwiches and drinks at Far Land Provisions or Pop+Dutch and then head to one of Provincetown’s two marquee beaches ($15 per entry on foot or bicycle, or $25 per car, during the summer). Herring Cove Beach is a bit more social, with a snack bar, a summer concert series, and separate areas favored by gay men, lesbians and those who prefer to sunbathe au naturel. Race Point Beach offers bigger waves, as well as more striking visuals with steep dunes behind you and the expanse of the Atlantic stretching out endlessly ahead. It’s also frequently a lounging area for a horde of seals — as well as the great white sharks that cruise the shoreline to feast on them. Keep your distance.

4:30 p.m. Shop Commercial Street

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Provincetown’s legal ban on national chain stores isn’t airtight, but it has helped usher in an array of quirky shops that line Commercial Street in the heart of town. Book lovers have several winning options, including Womencrafts’ unabashedly feminist-themed stock (look for its “48 Years Grateful for My Abortion” street sign), East End Books’ carefully curated new titles, and Tim’s Used Books’ selection of Cape authors and out-of-print art catalogs. Yesterday’s Treasures is packed with all manner of town ephemera, vintage postcards and unique gifts (a copy of “The Ethel Merman Disco Album,” anyone?). Mauclère Leather features handcrafted belts, bags and sandals; the Old Baby offers locally themed clothing with a wry edge; Respoke repurposes haute couture into no-less-haute hats and footwear (its motto, “I once was an Hermès scarf,” says it all).

8 p.m. Grab a lobster roll

Stay on Commercial Street for dinner in an invitingly casual setting at the Irish-pub-style Squealing Pig, where you can order the lightly battered fish and chips ($23) and pair it with a glass of Guinness stout ($9). The Nepali chicken curry ($19) is a less obvious, but no less savory, option (thanks to its Nepal-born chef). Or grab a seat in the Canteen’s backyard, where the beach party atmosphere draws a lively cross section of Provincetown — townie and tourist, young and old, gay and straight alike. Start with the crispy brussels sprouts ($10) and then settle in for a classic New England lobster roll ($28). The outdoor bar makes it easy to linger over drinks and bask in the harbor view as the sun sets behind you.

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10 p.m.. Take in a drag show

Thespians love to cite Provincetown’s role as the birthplace of modern American theater thanks to the playwright Eugene O’Neill’s legendary productions here in 1916. (The cultural buzz from those stagings followed him back to New York, where he soon went from unemployable to Pulitzer Prize winning.) Such emotionally wrenching plays are a bit thin on the ground in Provincetown these days, but drama — at least in the form of over-the-top drag — is alive and well. There are plenty of performers paying dutiful tribute to divas past and present, but more interesting are the drag queens pointedly — and hilariously — taking aim at all manner of sacred cows, both gay and straight, in venues like the Art House and the sprawling Crown & Anchor complex (most tickets $35 to $45). You can’t go wrong with anything featuring Dina Martina, Varla Jean Merman or the Little Rascals-meet-Russ Meyer ensembles directed by Ryan Landry. (Needless to say, don’t bring the kids.)

1 a.m. Get in your last licks

Once the bars close at 1 a.m., Provincetown quickly goes dark. One of the few exceptions is Spiritus, started in 1971 by two visiting hippie entrepreneurs who were astonished to discover the town was without a single pizzeria. Over five decades later, Spiritus is still owned by the co-founder John Yingling, though you are more likely to find his grandchildren behind the counter, slinging pizza slices ($4) and scoops of locally made Lewis Brothers ice cream ($4.25) to hungry late-night revelers until 2 a.m. A fun crowd tends to gather out front in the wee hours, but the benches facing the street are prime people-watching real estate day or night.

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'Didi' captures the awkwardness of adolescence almost too well : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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'Didi' captures the awkwardness of adolescence almost too well : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Izaac Wang stars as Chris Wang in Didi.

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Izaac Wang stars as Chris Wang in Didi.

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The movie Didi is a vibrant coming-of-age dramedy and was a Sundance film festival favorite. It stars Izaac Wang as a 13-year-old just trying to survive the awkwardness of puberty as a Taiwanese-American kid living in the Bay Area. He’s got a crush to impress, complicated friendships to navigate, and family members who are sooooo embarrassing. Didi was directed by Sean Wang, who earned an Oscar nomination earlier this year for his documentary short Nai Nai & Wai Po.

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5 campsites near L.A. beloved by locals

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5 campsites near L.A. beloved by locals

Los Angeles is brimming with special slices of nature, tucked high in the mountains or along the coast. So when we put together a guide highlighting some of the best first-come, first-serve campsites in the city, we asked readers to share their favorites too.

What we received were notes from nature lovers that waxed poetic of wildflowers and wildlife, and expressed a longing to escape the bustle of the city. As one reader put it, camping is “the quintessential escape from the maddening machinations of our urban quotidien.”

We rounded up some of our favorite responses below.

Reader Jan Rasmussen and her husband enjoy visiting Table Mountain, especially during the Fourth of July to escape the noise of fireworks erupting throughout L.A.

(Jan Rasmussen)

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A relaxing place with great views of the Antelope Valley

Campground: Table Mountain

Where is it? Angeles National Forest, near Wrightwood

Why is this campground your favorite? “Some sites can be reserved, but many sites are first-come, first-served, and the campground is so large, it’s likely you’ll find a site. We’ve camped there over July 4th weekend, and it wasn’t full. The campground is mostly on the top of a mountain with great views of Antelope Valley. There’s a trail around the campground.”

What’s a favorite memory you have at this campground? “Table Mountain is our favorite place to camp with the dog and get him out of town away from the July 4th firework noise. One time when leaving, we saw a bobcat sprinting across the road! Plus just a quiet and relaxing place.”

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Anything else you’d like to add? “When we are heading home, we always stop at Evergreen Cafe & Racoon Saloon in Wrightwood. There’s a patio for the dog, and the food and service are great.”

Jan Rasmussen, Lakewood

Reader Scott Pansky's kids enjoy the zip line.

Reader Scott Pansky’s kids enjoy the zip line and rope course among the many other activities at Ventura Ranch KOA in Santa Paula.

(Scott Pansky)

The Disneyland of campgrounds

Campground: Ventura Ranch KOA

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Where is it? 7400 Pine Grove Road, Santa Paula

Why is this campground your favorite? “Nestled in Santa Paula and a short drive to or from Ojai, this campground is unlike any other campsite we have been to. You can really tell there was a lot of thought that was put into developing this campsite. This location can accommodate any type of camper. For our family, it’s become a home away from home, and we try to visit anytime we can to get away from the the hustle and bustle of the city. The best part is it’s less than an hour away for us and feels like you are completely somewhere else.

From deluxe cabins with Wi-Fi, televisions, showers, air conditioning, gas barbecues and traditional fire pits, this site provides glamping at its best. Meanwhile, it also has traditional campsites, tepees, and RV sites. The recreation options are far beyond an average campsite, from a resort-style swimming pool, zipline and ropes course, a rock climbing tower, a jumping pillow, numerous trails and a Bigfoot hike, a tie-dye station, and so much more. Yet, minutes away you also have access to restaurants and grocery stores. Truly an ideal experience no one will forget.”

What’s a favorite memory you have at this campground? “One of the activities we got to do was make foam rocket ships and shoot them across the campsite with an air compressor. From sitting on the deck behind our cabin, having a family barbecue, to sharing stories around the campfire, our children have family stories that will last a lifetime.”

— Scott Pansky, Tarzana

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The sunset view from nearby Mt. Lowe, which campers can hike to from the trail camp.

The sunset view from nearby Mt. Lowe, which campers can hike to from the trail camp.

(Mitchell Miller)

A hike full of history to a great campsite

Campground: Mt. Lowe Trail Camp

Where is it located? About a 5-mile hike to the location in Angeles National Forest

Why is this campground your favorite? “The journey up the Mt. Lowe Road is [a] hike back through history, when early 20th century Angelenos would catch the Mt. Lowe Railway up the San Gabriels to the resorts of Echo Mountain and Mount Lowe. As you ascend from Altadena through the chaparral foothills and eventually to pine forests, you’ll get a full history lesson from the interpretive signs along the way. Once you reach the Trail Camp, explore the old foundation of the Alpine Tavern and listen to the birds and the creek. Hopefully you have time and energy to continue up to Mt. Lowe for a beautiful sunset.”

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What’s a favorite memory you have at this campground? “Stargazing and eating mango candy.”

— Mitchell Miller, Los Angeles

Reader Tommy Bui enjoyed the solitude that Hoegees Trail Camp.

Reader Tommy Bui enjoyed the solitude that Hoegees Trail Camp, a 2.2-mile hike-in site, when he visited during the worst of the COVID-19 pandemic.

(Tommy Bui)

A true escape to nature

Campground: Hoegees Trail Camp (temporarily closed, as of July)

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Where is it? Angeles National Forest, via a 2.2-mile hike in

Why is this campground your favorite? “All the amenities and alluring characteristics you could think of. Plenty of canopy coverage, picturesque and well-kempt trails and the tranquil solitude you so strive in spades. The campsite has ample space and the greenery lush and otherworldly enough to compel you to stow away full-time in the wilderness.”

What’s a favorite memory you have at this campground? “It was during the pandemic and people were clamoring for safe and outdoorsy activities. I decided to go outside of my own comfort level and pack and lace up for a weekend in the woods. Tattered map in tow and sense of adventure in abundance, I was the only entity out there all weekend. With the exception of the wildlife that came sniffing around my tent around midnight. It was adrenaline-inducing and transcendent as I’d never felt that close to nature before. I could smell her coyote-breath.”

Tommy Bui, Pacoima

Light lavender bushes and hoary leaf ceanothus blooming near the Soldier Creek Trail near the Crystal Lake campground.

Reader Kurt Star and his kids enjoyed the light lavender bushes and hoary leaf ceanothus blooming near the Soldier Creek Trail near the Crystal Lake campground.

(Kurt Star)

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Where the wildflowers bloom longer

Campground: Crystal Lake Rec Area Campground

Where is it? North of Azusa off Highway 39

Why is this campground your favorite? “It’s a beautiful mix of pine and oak forest. Wonderful riparian areas too, though there isn’t a lot of surface water. It’s big so it’s a good bet. I was just up a couple weeks ago. The ceanothus blooms were stunning. The monkey flower, deerweed, penstemon and lupines were out in force too. Wildflower blooms last longer and start later the higher you go up in elevation. So quiet at certain times of the day. It’s an entirely different world than down in the valley.”

What’s a favorite memory you have at this campground? “On my last trip, I took my kids up, and we walked down and rounded a corner and were just hit with walls of color. Light blue of California lilac and violet to blue of lupines with the gray sheer walls of the mountains in the background. Really strong honey scent everywhere.”

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Kurt Star, Covina

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