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I played the new Resident Evil — and a whole lot more. Here are my thoughts

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I played the new Resident Evil — and a whole lot more. Here are my thoughts

Resident Evil Requiem generated a lot of hype from its reveal trailer. But it was hardly the most interesting game at this year’s Play Days showcase.

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Just days after new games like Resident Evil Requiem were announced at Summer Game Fest, a collection of press and game industry stalwarts were invited to play them in Los Angeles.

I spent time with Capcom heavyweights like Resident Evil Requiem and Pragmata, but also a host of great games previously not on my radar.

One such surprise is a heist game where the player “steals” African art back from museums. Another is a new game from the art director of Journey that feels like a direct nod to that classic indie game.

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The experience of choosing which games to play (and subsequently write about) mimics the reality of the games industry right now: there are so many great games and simply not enough time to play them all.

The art director of Journey has a new game

Sword of the Sea is the new game from developer Giant Squid, who created Abzu and The Pathless.

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“It was a once in a lifetime thing,” says artist Matt Nava, thinking back on the success of his work on the video game Journey. Released in 2012, the game played a key role in ushering in an era of show-don’t-tell video game storytelling. In Journey, mood, atmosphere and aesthetics are king; exposition and plot play second fiddle.

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This is a legacy that Nava is well aware of. It also means Nava has to contend with the burden of following up on his past achievement, one of the greatest video games ever made.

Nava now works at the video game studio Giant Squid, which has made similarly atmospheric adventure games like Abzû and The Pathless. His approach to art direction remains the same as it always has: make hyper stylized games that refuse to chase photo-realism. “It’s not trying to depict what’s real,” Nava says. “It’s trying to get beyond what’s real.”

Sword of the Sea is the team’s latest project, set to release in August of this year. Players glide across vast sandy landscapes on a sword. Originally a lifeless desert, the area’s are gradually restored with water and life, becoming filled with color. In an era where so many video games seem tinted with the same dark blue, grim-dark hues, this game is a blindingly brilliant breath of fresh air.

It’s hard not to draw a parallel between the landscape of this game and Journey’s; hard not to see a similarity in its ideas about player movement and game feel.

Nava says there’s a reason for all of that. Sword of the Sea is the first time that Nava feels comfortable making a game in conversation with Journey. “It’s the first time where I’m like kind of openly saying — yeah, that was me.” In that way, the game feels like a kind of full-circle moment for an individual creator, but also, a long overdue homage and acknowledgement.

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A heist game asks players to repatriate African art

Relooted is a game about “stealing” back African artifacts from museums.

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There are a lot of games with a great narrative hook that lack compelling gameplay. Relooted, on the other hand, stands out: a game with a bold narrative idea that is also mechanically engaging.

In it, you play as a team of thieves assembled to steal back African artifacts from museums. Each of the game’s museum areas represent both a puzzle solving challenge and platforming test. First, you’ll plan your escape. Then, you’ll execute the plan by grabbing the artifacts and running and jumping your way to the exit. Better strategy up front leads to a better execution time, and a better time leads to better scores.

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Creative director Ben Myres grew up in Johannesburg, South Africa. He calls the game a work of “African-futurism,” distinct from afro-futurism in the sense that it is about “real people, real places, real cities in the future.” That kind of quest for authenticity extends to how the game catalogues its artifacts. Once repatriated, a detailed 3D model of the art is displayed within the game’s hub area, where players can delve into the real history of these objects.

Relooted might be the best game I played across any of this weekend’s showcases: a polished, thoughtful and outright fun heist caper that dares to ask challenging questions about art and ownership.

Resident Evil Requiem remains a mystery

The Resident Evil Requiem trailer was the big surprise of last Friday’s Summer Game Fest event.

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NPR was one of a few outlets to play a hands-on demo of Resident Evil Requiem. Resident Evil is one of the longest running horror franchises in gaming and arguably its most influential. That influence continues today and is a big part of Capcom’s eight-year streak of record-breaking profits. 

The demo of Resident Evil Requiem begins at a moment shown in its recent trailer. The game’s protagonist, Grace Ashcroft, finds herself strapped upside down to a medical gurney inside of what appears to be a hospital. An IV is drawing blood from her arm. She breaks free: and the demo begins, orienting the player in a first-person perspective (a perspective that the player can switch to third person, which I learn only after the demo concludes).

What follows is a familiar survival-horror scenario. Walking through barely lit corridors, moving objects around the environment, and solving object-based puzzles in classic RE fashion. Throughout all of this, the player is stalked by a towering, Lovecraftian creature that smashes through ceilings and walls. When it manages to get its hands on you, it takes a brutal bite out of you. And when it kills you — as it did to me during the demo — the result is gory and brutal, with carnage and dismemberment reminiscent of Resident Evil 4.

I found it all compelling enough, but a bit safe. The creature AI, and how it tracked the player, felt prescriptive rather than interactive. The result is gameplay that feels like trial and error rather than the result of dynamic problem solving.

What is Resident Evil Requiem? Both Resident Evil 7: Biohazard and Resident Evil Village had strong thematic identities. In contrast, the aesthetic and tone of this game, at least across this tiny slice, is not as clearly defined. Is that mystique by design, a way of spurring conversation about what the full game will look rather than revealing its surprises too early?

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Probably. I wouldn’t be surprised if Capcom is, intentionally, leaving us in the proverbial dark. The game is releasing in February of next year, so we won’t have to wait too long to find out.

Pragmata is a risky experiment that pays off

Pragmata is shaping up to be an interesting and original sci-fi game from Capcom.

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Capcom also let us go hands-on with Pragmata, a game first announced more than five years ago and targeting a 2026 release. It’s a science fiction action game where you assume the role of Hugh, a grizzled astronaut in a heavy space suit, and his hacker sidekick, Diana, an android girl who rides on his back.

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The wrinkle here is that you actually control both characters at once: shooting with classic third person shooter controls, and using the face buttons to navigate a hacking grid that, if executed successfully, causes attacks to do considerably more damage. The result is a frenetic shooter that doubles as a frenetic puzzler; like playing Gears of War and Lumines at the same time.

It’s a weird concept. But compelling, if only because it feels like such an outlier to what modern shooters offer. In this 20 minute slice, I was crawling through linear hallways and picking up new weapons, blasting my way through bad guys and doing this intricate puzzle solving dance. It understood its strengths and stuck to its figurative guns.

I actually found its simplified design decisions refreshing, a break from the many sprawling open worlds I’m usually asked to slog through. It’s clearly the puzzle elements that stand out here and I’m interested to see how wild Capcom lets loose with those mechanics in the final game.

Onimusha’s producer explains Capcom’s success

Onimusha: Way of the Sword is the latest entry in this spooky action Capcom franchise.

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Onimusha: Way of the Sword is a third person action game with a light-horror feel. This new title marks a big budget revival for the series after Capcom prioritized other titles for years. Given player interest in third person action games of this kind, it makes sense why its making a return.

But it’s also symbolic of where Capcom is right now: successful enough to take a chance on a dormant franchise, thanks to a track record of quality that almost guarantees broad interest.

I want to pause for a second and talk about just how remarkable Capcom’s recent run is. At a time when big video game releases appear to be getting farther and farther apart, Capcom is bucking that trend, releasing a number of well-reviewed and financially successful games every year.

I asked Onimusha producer Akihito Kadowaki, what makes this possible? Is it because of their dedication to using familiar game engines and tools? Employee retention and expertise?

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Not quite, although he admitted those were both contributing factors.

The real answer, he said through a translator, was that Capcom’s directors and project leads have a very clear direction of where they want to go, “a very good idea of what they want to create.”

Easier said than done, but in an industry where big studios often scrap and restart projects in an effort to appeal to everyone, Capcom’s secret sauce may lie in its all hands on deck approach to a single cohesive idea or vision.

It’s an answer that brings to mind my earlier demo of Resident Evil Requiem. All the more important, then, for that game to cohere into something more clearly defined.

Blumhouse tries its hand at playable horror

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Crisol: Theater of Idols is being published by Blumhouse Games.

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The size of the video game market is no secret. You’ve heard countless times now from mainstream outlets like NPR that its revenue dwarfs that of the film and music industry combined. So, it makes sense that big media companies like Netflix and Amazon have made investments in gaming.

But it’s been equally interesting to see how production companies like Annapurna Interactive and now Blumhouse Games, have used video games as a strategic extension of their broader portfolio.

Blumhouse showed off two games at the Play Days showcase. One was Crisol: Theater of Idols, a first-person horror game that takes place in a nightmarish alternate version of Spain. Another was Grave Seasons, a kind of Stardew Valley meets Doki Doki Literature Club riff on the farming sim genre.

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Both impressed me. Not only in their quality, but also in the kind of games they promise to be: eccentric and impassioned projects that feel in the spirit of the Blumhouse try-anything horror ethos.

Lifestyle

You’re Invited! (No, You’re Not.) It’s the Latest Phishing Scam.

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You’re Invited! (No, You’re Not.) It’s the Latest Phishing Scam.

When John Lantigua, a retired journalist in Miami Beach, checked his email one recent morning, he was glad to see an invitation.

“It was like, ‘Come and share an evening with me. Click here for details,’” Mr. Lantigua said.

It appeared to be a Paperless Post invitation from someone he once worked with at The Palm Beach Post, a man who had left Florida for Mississippi and liked to arrange dinners when he was back in town.

Mr. Lantigua, 78, clicked the link. It didn’t open.

He clicked a second time. Still nothing.

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He didn’t realize what was going on until a mutual friend who had received the same email told him it wasn’t an invitation at all. It was a scam.

Phishing scams have long tried to frighten people into clicking on links with emails claiming that their bank accounts have been hacked, or that they owe thousands of dollars in fines, or that their pornography viewing habits have been tracked.

The invitation scam is a little more subtle: It preys on the all-too-human desire to be included in social gatherings.

The phishy invitations mimic emails from Paperless Post, Evite and Punchbowl. What appears to be a friendly overture from someone you know is really a digital Trojan horse that gives scammers access to your personal information.

“I thought it was diabolical that they would choose somebody who has sent me a legitimate invitation before,” Mr. Lantigua said. “He’s a friend of mine. If he’s coming to town, I want to see him.”

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Rachel Tobac, the chief executive of SocialProof Security, a cybersecurity firm, said she noticed the scam last holiday season.

“Phishing emails are not a new thing,” Ms. Tobac said, “but every six months, we get a new lure that hijacks our amygdala in new ways. There’s such a desire for folks to get together that this lure is interesting to people. They want to go to a party.”

Phishing scams involve “two distinct paths,” Ms. Tobac added. In one, the recipient is served a link that turns out to be dead, or so it seems. A click activates malware that runs silently as it gleans passwords and other bits of personal information. In all likelihood, this is what happened when Mr. Lantigua clicked on the ersatz invitation link.

Another scam offers a working link. Potential victims who click on it are asked to provide a password. Those who take that next step are a boon to hackers.

“They have complete control of your email and, in turn, your entire digital life,” Ms. Tobac said. “They can reset your password for your dog’s Instagram account. They can take over your bank account. Change your health insurance.”

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Digital invitation platforms are trying to combat the scam by publishing guides on how to spot fake invitations. Paperless Post has also set up an email account — phishing@paperlesspost.com — for users to submit messages for verification. The company sends suspicious links to the Anti-Phishing Working Group, a nonprofit that maintains a database monitored by cybersecurity firms. Flagged links are rendered ineffective.

The scammers’ new strategy of exploiting the desire for connection is infuriating, said Alexa Hirschfeld, a founder of Paperless Post. “Life can be isolating,” Ms. Hirschfeld said. “When it looks like you’re getting an invitation from someone you know, your first instinct is excitement, not skepticism.”

Olivia Pollock, the vice president of brand for Evite, said that fake invitations tended to be generic, promising a birthday party or a celebration of life. Most invitations these days tend to have a specific focus — mahjong gatherings or book club talks, for instance. “The devil is in the details,” Ms. Pollock said.

Because scammers don’t know how close you are with the people in your contact list, fake invitations may also seem random. “They could be from your business school roommate you haven’t spoken to in 10 years,” Ms. Hirschfeld said.

Alyssa Williamson, who works in public relations in New York, was leaving a yoga class recently when she checked her phone and saw an invitation from a college classmate.

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“I assumed it was an alumni event,” Ms. Williamson, 30, said. “I clicked on it, and it was like, ‘Enter your email.’ I didn’t even think about it.”

Later that day, she received texts from friends asking her about the party invitation she had just sent out. Her response: What party?

“The thing is, I host a lot of events,” she said. “Some knew it was fake. Others were like, ‘What’s this? I can’t open it.’”

Andrew Smith, a graduate student in finance who lives in Manhattan, received what looked like a Punchbowl invitation to “a memory making celebration.” It appeared to have come from a woman he had dated in college. He received it when he was having drinks at a bar on a Friday night — “a pretty insidious piece of timing,” he said.

“The choice of sender was super clever,” Mr. Smith, 29, noted. “This was somebody that would probably get a reaction from me.”

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Mr. Smith seized on the phrase “memory making celebration” and filled in the blanks. He imagined that someone in his ex-girlfriend’s immediate family had died. Perhaps she wanted to restart contact at this difficult moment.

Something saved him when he clicked a link and tried to tap out his personal information — his inability to remember the password to his email account. The next day, he reached out to his ex, who confirmed that the invitation was fake.

“It didn’t trigger any alarm bells,” Mr. Smith said. “I went right for the click. I went completely animal brain.”

The new scam comes with an unfortunate side effect, a suspicion of invitations altogether. It’s enough to make a person antisocial.

“Don’t invite me to anything,” Mr. Lantigua, the retired journalist, said, only half-joking. “I’m not coming.”

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The New Rules for Negotiating With Multibrand Retailers

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The New Rules for Negotiating With Multibrand Retailers
Partnerships with multibrand players remain vital to fashion brands of all sizes, but the rules of engagement have changed as the sector has come under immense strain. BoF breaks down what brands need to know to reduce risk while building lasting relationships.
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The Japanese Designers Changing Men’s Wear

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The Japanese Designers Changing Men’s Wear

You want to know where men’s fashion is heading? Follow the geeks.

These are the obsessives, fixated, with a NASA technician’s precision, on how their pants fit or on which pair of Paraboot shoes is the correct pair. These are the obsessives who in the aughts were early to selvage denim (now available at a Uniqlo near you!) and soft-shouldered Italian tailoring in the mode that, eventually, trickled down to your local J. Crew.

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And where has the attention of this cohort landed now? On a vanguard of newish-to-the-West labels from Japan, like A.Presse, Comoli, Auralee and T.T.

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A.Presse is probably the most hyped of this cohort. What other label is worn by the French soccer player Pierre Kalulu and the actor Cooper Hoffman and has men paying a premium for a hoodie on the resale market? Kazuma Shigematsu, the founder, is not into attention. When we spoke, he wouldn’t allow me to record the conversation. Notes only.

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“You mean a better-fitting denim jacket that’s based on an old Levi’s thing? Yeah, OK, sold,” said Jeremy Kirkland, host of the “Blamo!” podcast and the textbook definition of a latter-day Japanese men’s wear guy. Mr. Kirkland, once someone who would allocate his budget to Italian suits, admitted that, recently, over the course of two weeks, he bought four (yes, four) jackets from A.Presse1.

“I’m not really experimenting with my style anymore,” Mr. Kirkland said. “I’m just wanting really good, basic stuff.”

Basic though these clothes appear, their hook is that they’re opulent to the touch, elevated in their fabrication.

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Over the years, the designer Ryota Iwai has told me repeatedly that he is inspired by nothing more than the people he sees on his commute to the Auralee offices in Tokyo. When asked recently if he collected anything, he said nothing — just his bicycle.

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The true somber tale of this wave. The brand’s founder, Taiga Takahashi, died of an arrhythmia in 2022 at 27. The label has continued to plumb history for inspiration. The latest collection had pieces that drew on bygone American postal-worker uniforms.

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An Auralee2 bomber looks pedestrian until you touch it and realize its silk. Labels like T.T3 make clothes that echo the specs of a vintage relic yet come factory fresh, notched up, made … well, better. They bestow upon the wearer a certain in-the-know authority.

And so there is a hobbyist giddiness present on Discord channels where 30- and 40-something men trade tips on how to size moleskin trousers by the Japanese label Comoli; at boutiques like Neighbour in Vancouver, British Columbia, where items like a $628 dusty pink trucker jacket from Yoko Sakamoto and an $820 T.T sweater sell out soon after hitting the sales floor.

What’s notable is how swiftly these geeky preferences have wiggled into the broader fashion community. While I was in Paris for the men’s fashion shows a year ago January, all anyone wanted to talk about were things with a “Made in Japan” tag. I would speak with editors who were carving out room in their suitcases for Auralee’s $3,000 leather jackets.

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Ryota Iwai, designer of Auralee.

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Kazuma Shigematsu, designer of A.Presse.

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Keijiro Komori, designer of Comoli. via Comoli

But these were clothes being shown away from the fashion week hordes. The A.Presse showroom was on a Marais side street in a space about as long as a bowling lane and scarcely wider that was crammed with racks of canvas, silk and denim jackets with Pollock-like paint splatters. There were leather jackets as plush as Roche Bobois sofas and hoodies based on sweatshirts made in America a half-century ago.

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I got the hype. After 10 days of puzzling over newfangled stuff on the runways, the display of simple, understandable shapes we’ve known our whole lives, but redone with extra care, couldn’t have felt more welcome.

Kazuma Shigematsu, the A.Presse designer, said he had collected a trove of vintage pieces that he housed in a separate space to plumb for inspiration. He made new clothes based on old clothes that benefited from a century of small design tweaks.

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By this January, A.Presse had upgraded to a regal maison facing the Place des Vosges, with giant windows and even more reverent hoodies, even more tender leathers. Back in America, I asked an online department store executive what his favorite thing from Paris was. He took out his phone to show me photos of himself trying on a zip-up leather jacket in A.Presse’s high-ceilinged showroom.

On Their Own Terms

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“We never think about trendiness or popular design details,” Ms. Sakamoto said through a translator. “It’s more like functionality, everyday use.” The label has a thing for natural dyes: pants stained with persimmon tannin, yellow ochre and sumi ink, shirts colored with mugwort and adzuki beans.

The sudden popularity of these labels outside Japan can make it feel as if they are new. Yet each label has built a respectable business within Japan, some for more than a decade. Auralee was founded in 2015. A year later, Yoko Sakamoto4 started its line. A.Presse is the relative baby of this cohort at five years old.

“A couple years ago, we would have to buy off the line sheet or go to Japan and see everything,” said Saager Dilawri, the owner of Neighbour, who has an instinct for what spendy, creative types lust after. “Now I think everyone from Japan is trying to go to Paris to get into the international market.”

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This movement’s “Beatles on Ed Sullivan” moment occurred in 2018, when Auralee won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo, granting the designer, Ryota Iwai, financial support. Soon after, Auralee was given a slot on the Paris Fashion Week calendar.

“I had never seen a show before, never thought to do it,” Mr. Iwai said through a translator in February, days after his latest runway show. He has now done five.

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As we talked, buyers speaking different languages entered his storefront showroom and ventured upstairs to scrutinize items like a trench coat that looked as if it was made of corduroy but was actually made from cashmere and wool and an MA-1 bomber jacket with a feathery merino wool lining peeking out along the placket.

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The Cale designer Yuki Sato travels throughout Japan to find textiles. Unusually, the company manufactures everything, including leather and denim, in one factory.

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At Cale’s5 display off Place Vendôme, the designer Yuki Sato described denim trousers and pocketed work jackets as “modest, but perfectionist.” On the other side of the city, at Soshi Otsuki, whose 11-year-old label Soshiotsuki has gained attention for its warped vision of salary-man suits, I encountered buyers from Kith, a New York streetwear emporium better known for selling logoed hoodies and sell-out sneakers than for tailoring.

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Nearly a decade into its existence, Soshiotsuki has hit a hot streak. Soshi Otsuki won the LVMH Prize in 2025, and he already has a Zara collaboration under his belt. An Asics collaboration is set to arrive in stores soon.

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Talking through translators with these designers, I began to worry that it might be unfair to group them together simply because they were all from Japan. Auralee simmers with colors as lush as a Matisse canvas, while Comoli’s brightest shade is brown. Soshiotsuki6 has mastered tailoring, while Orslow is known for its faded-at-the-knee jeans channeling decades-old Levi’s.

Rather, as with the Antwerp Six design clique that sprung out of Belgium in the early 1980s, it is these labels’ origin stories that thread them together.

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“They’re being encountered on their own terms and respected on their own account, and they happen to be Japanese,” said W. David Marx, the author of “Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style” and a cultural critic who has lived in Tokyo for more than two decades.

“It is a new era of Japanese fashion on the global stage,” Mr. Marx said.

A Love Affair With Japan

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Western shoppers have a history of falling hard for clothes from Japan. In 1981, when Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto crashed onto the Paris fashion scene, buyers swooned for their brainy, body-shrouding creations.

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Recently reintroduced as Number(N)ine by Takahiro Miyashita.

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Years later, Number(N)ine7 and A Bathing Ape synthesized trends we would call American — grunge, streetwear and hip-hop — polished them up and sold them back to the West.

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Years before American men were trawling the internet for A.Presse, they would scour forums for deals on Visvim’s jeans and sneakers. Today, Visvim has stores in Santa Fe, N.M.; Carmel, Calif.; and Los Angeles.

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Into the 2000s, clothing geeks were swapping tips on forums like Superfuture and Hypebeast about how to use a Japanese proxy service to buy Visvim’s8 seven-eyelet leather work boots or SugarCane’s brick-thick jeans.

Along the way, “Made in Japan” became a shorthand for “made well.” This was more than fetishization. As America’s clothing factories became empty carcasses pockmarking the heartland, Japan’s apparel industry grew steroidal.

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“Japan still has an incredible manufacturing base for apparel that goes all the way from the textiles to the sewing to the postproduction,” Mr. Marx said.

Today, many Japanese labels produce most of their garments and, crucially, their textiles in Japan. When I first met Mr. Iwai years ago, I asked how he managed to create such lush colors. He answered, as if noting that the sky was blue, that he worked with the factories that developed his fabrics. As I spoke with Mr. Sato in January, he shared that Cale’s factory had been in his family for generations and also produced for other Japanese brands that I would know.

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Chris Green, the owner of Ven. Space, a boutique in the Carroll Gardens neighborhood of Brooklyn that has helped to introduce a number of these labels to an American market, suggested that because Japan is a small country with a fervent fashion culture, a competitive spirit has been stoked.

“They have to be able to cut through the noise,” Mr. Green said, with brands trying to prove that their cashmere sweater can outclass their peers’, that their silks are sourced from finer factories. What’s more, he said, once these brands have nailed a design, they stick with it. That is something that is important to men, in particular, who hate when a brand abandons its favored pants after a season.

Before he opened Ven. Space in 2024, Mr. Green was an admirer of many of these labels, purchasing them during trips to Japan. As we spoke, he was wearing a pair of Comoli belted jeans that he bought five or so years ago. A similar style is still available.

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Primed for What They Were Pitching

At the close of the 2010s, streetwear was running on fumes. Quiet luxury was entering at stage left. If the Row and Loro Piana were expert at subtle, fine-to-the-touch clothes, so, too, were the likes of T.T, Graphpaper and Yoko Sakamoto.

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“I went from this guy that wears pear-shaped pants to just wearing, like, a denim jacket,” said Chris Maradiaga, a tech worker and freelance writer in Vancouver. His wardrobe today consists of Comoli’s black-as-night trousers and a purple-tinged coat by Ssstein. His kaleidoscopic Bode jackets gather dust.

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Kiichiro Asakawa, designer of Ssstein.

Yuki Sato, designer of Cale.

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Soshi Otsuki, designer of Soshiotsuki.

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That Ssstein clothes have landed in the closets of men on the other side of the world defies the early guidance relayed to Kiichiro Asakawa, the label’s bushy-haired designer. His “senpais,” or mentors, warned him that his reduced designs might leave Western audiences cold. “You need something powerful,” they told him.

He tried, but it wasn’t necessary. It’s the most minimal designs — his cotton gabardine zip-ups, his “easy” pleated trousers — that people are most interested in now. “It actually makes me very happy,” he said through a translator. “My instincts were right.” Mr. Asakawa won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo in 2024.

Adapting to North American Markets (and Men)

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Several Japanese designers noted that they had modified their sizing to accommodate larger, American bodies.

“I’ll ask them, Can you lengthen the pants by three centimeters? Because you need that for the Western market,” Mr. Dilawri of Neighbour said, noting that the designers were receptive to those requests.

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A number of labels, like Comoli and Soshiotsuki, are already oversize. That’s the look.

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Kiichiro Asakawa ran a Tokyo boutique, Carol, before starting Ssstein in 2016. It’s still there. He, too, said he found inspiration in the everyday, for example when watching an elderly couple have dinner across a restaurant.

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There is also the matter of price. On the whole, these clothes are not cheap. See Auralee’s silk bomber jacket, which could be military surplus but feels stolen from a sultan’s palace. It’s roughly $1,700. Ssstein’s9 Carhartt cousin chore jacket with a cowhide collar and a factory-massaged fade? About $1,000. Anyone who has traveled recently in Japan, where the yen is tantalizingly weak, will tell you that these Japanese-made clothes, after being imported, are far pricier in North America.

Yet, as luxury fashion labels continue to price out the aspirational middle-class shopper, many of those same shoppers have convinced themselves that the Japanese labels are a better value. A cashmere coat at Prada is $10,000, and you’ll need $1,690 to own a cotton-blend cardigan from Margiela. Similar pieces from Japanese labels can be half that price, or less.

“Brands like Bottega, Balenciaga, the Row — all that stuff — are so unobtainable,” said Mr. Kirkland, whose clothing budget has shifted to A.Presse. “I will never be in that price bracket,” he added, “but I’m wealthy enough to buy a chore coat for $800.”

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Of course, Mr. Kirkland and all of the fans of these labels could own a chore coat for far less — but then it wouldn’t be “Made in Japan.”

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