Lifestyle
Black Women Defend Mayor Karen Bass Amid Criticism of Wildfire Response
As wildfires began to engulf parts of Los Angeles and its surrounding communities, many people online, including celebrities and politicians, were quick to criticize the city’s mayor, Karen Bass, accusing her of poor leadership and slow response times as she rushed back to the city from Ghana. That criticism came though it was still unclear what ignited the fires that have since left at least 25 people dead, destroyed thousands of homes and charred nearly 40,000 acres.
In response, numerous Black women have come to her defense, saying that Ms. Bass is facing a double standard that they feel many Black female leaders confront in this country.
Among those pushing for patience and fair treatment is Areva Martin, a Los Angeles civil rights lawyer. In a post on X, she called out what she described as “pervasive disinformation” about Ms. Bass. In a phone interview on Tuesday, Ms. Martin said the political climate in the country had played a huge role in the criticism of Ms. Bass.
“We have seen the far right capitalizing on natural disasters and other tragedies and using them as an opportunity to sow division and chaos and to cause doubt about the leadership of Democratic-elected officials, particularly African American elected officials,” Ms. Martin said.
The critics have been fierce. After the fires broke out, President-elect Donald J. Trump said on his Truth Social site that the officials in charge of fighting the wildfires were “incompetent,” claiming that they have “no idea how to put them out.” Rick Caruso, a real estate developer who lost to Ms. Bass in the mayoral race in 2022, has referred to her leadership and absence at the start of the wildfires as “a massive failure of epic proportions.”
Despite warnings of extreme fire risk in the area, Ms. Bass, who had previously said she would not travel abroad as mayor, was on an official trip to Ghana to attend the inauguration of its new president when the blaze broke out on Jan. 7. She returned to Los Angeles on Jan. 8.
But mixed in with questions of her decision to travel were misleading claims about cuts to the city’s fire department budget that Ms. Bass approved last year. Patrick Soon-Shiong, the owner of The Los Angeles Times, posted on X that “competence matters,” referring to her decisions. However, the city and the firefighters’ union were negotiating a new contract when the city’s budget was approved last year and the fire department’s budget did not yet include expected raises, meaning this year’s fire budget is actually $53 million higher than it was last year.
Joining the chorus of critical voices were celebrities based in Los Angeles, including Sarah Michelle Gellar, James Woods, Khloe Kardashian and Sara Foster, all of whom slammed Ms. Bass’s response and leadership.
It is common for elected leaders to be blamed by people in a time of crisis, with Gov. Gavin Newsom also being a frequent target in the current news cycle. But after the initial criticism of Ms. Bass, a wave of voices, many of whom are Black women, began defending the mayor, saying that Black women are criticized more intensely than other groups.
Luvvie Ajayi Jones, an author, speaker and digital strategist in Chicago, had a post of support for Ms. Bass shared widely across social media, with more than 10,000 likes on Instagram alone. She said in a phone interview that this was yet another in a long line of cases where Black women are scapegoated.
“It’s obscene the ways in which people are trying to find reasons to come at her and I think it’s so convenient for them because, again, it’s become such a commonplace thing to do,” Ms. Jones said.
The actress and talk show host Whoopi Goldberg said on “The View” on Monday that she took “great offense” at those who are already pointing fingers at city and state officials. And the actresses Yvette Nicole Brown and Kym Whitley stood up for Ms. Bass, the first woman and second Black person to be elected mayor of Los Angeles, during a TMZ interview this week, citing race and misogyny as a reason she was facing more criticism than her peers.
In a phone interview on Tuesday, Ms. Brown, who has been living in California for about 30 years, said she had never seen the mayor of a single city “thrown under the bus” after a natural diaster.
“So I’ve decided,” she said, “after what happened to Kamala Harris in that election, where misinformation was left unchecked and was able to flourish for too long, I’m going to get in front of this and fight for Mayor Bass before it congeals into another big lie.”
Ms. Jones said she believed that it is common for Black female leaders to inherit issues that existed before they assumed the role, only to be subsequently blamed for them when things went wrong. She referenced the treatment of Vice President Kamala Harris during her 2024 presidential race and the discourse around Claudine Gay, the former president of Harvard University who resigned after criticism of her congressional testimony about antisemitism and accusations of plagiarism.
“It is tiring to watch it happen over and over and over again,” Ms. Jones said.
Ms. Martin, who echoed many of Ms. Jones’s sentiments, said she supported Ms. Bass’s election in part because of her previous roles serving in the House of Representatives and the State Assembly, as well as her experience as a community organizer.
“Any notion that she’s incompetent or that she’s a D.E.I. hire, it’s offensive,” she said.
Lifestyle
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Lifestyle
Proenza Schouler Designers Depart in Further Fashion World Tumult
The very messy game of designer musical chairs that roiled the fashion world at the end of 2024 is continuing into 2025.
On Wednesday, Proenza Schouler, a New York brand that was once considered the future of fashion in the city, announced that its designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, would be stepping down from the company, which they founded back in 2002. They will remain on the board and will continue to be minority shareholders. A search is underway for their replacements.
No reason was given for the decision, other than that the time simply felt “right,” and no statement was made about what the designers would do next. Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez reportedly began thinking about exploring other opportunities after the company’s 20th anniversary in 2022, and their new chief executive, Shira Suveyke Snyder, was brought in last October in part to manage the transition.
Still, a designer leaving a house he or she founded when it is relatively stable and they are relatively young (Mr. Hernandez and Mr. McCollough are 46) is almost unheard-of, unless there has been a falling out with a backer or the designer is planning to take another job.
It is possible Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez are setting a new precedent when it comes to career paths. But they are also widely rumored to be under consideration to be the new designers of Loewe, the Spanish brand owned by LVMH, replacing Jonathan Anderson, who has been said for months to be heading to Dior. (A spokesman declined to comment on the move.)
It should be noted that Mr. Anderson has not officially left Loewe, nor has Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior women’s wear whom he would theoretically replace, left Dior. Also, Kim Jones, the creative director of Dior men’s wear, recently re-signed his contract with the brand.
LVMH, which once explored acquiring Proenza Schouler, has neither confirmed nor denied the various anonymous reports suggesting all the above, even as the rumors have spread across social media. Neither Loewe nor Proenza Schouler nor JW Anderson, Mr. Anderson’s namesake brand, are on the coming fashion show schedules in New York, Paris or London.
According to headhunters, major luxury groups are now asking that designers who take on positions at fashion houses in their group stop doing double duty with their own labels. For example, Veronica Leoni, the new designer at Calvin Klein, put her Quira collection on hold when she took the bigger job.
All of which has further fueled the speculation about who is going where.
The only thing that is certain is that despite Proenza Schouler’s being synonymous with Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez, the designers intend for it to go on without them. It is not being closed or suspended, and the opening of a second store in New York in February is going ahead. (The February woman’s collection will be released digitally; the fate of a planned men’s collection is to be determined.)
What Proenza Schouler, which was named after Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez’s mothers, will look like without its founders is less clear.
Other than being known for a coolly urban art gallerist vibe and a hit bag (the PS1), and despite Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez’s being highly mediagenic, winning five Council of Fashion Designers of America awards and being championed by Anna Wintour, Proenza Schouler never really fulfilled the promise of becoming the Next Great American Brand.
Within the industry, the designers are still known as “the Proenza boys,” which reflects the sense that they have remained designers on the verge. Two collections shown in Paris during the couture shows were tepidly received, and the company has struggled with a revolving cast of investors. (Currently Proenza Schouler is majority-owned by Mudrick Capital.)
The Proenza job opening now joins those at Fendi, Maison Margiela and Helmut Lang and will further reshape a fashion world in the midst of extraordinary designer change. Eight creative directors are making their debuts this year as fashion houses seek to offer something new in the face of a global slowdown in luxury spending. The dominoes are not done falling.
Lifestyle
Altadena’s Christmas Tree Lane survives. Volunteers hope to turn the lights on again
• Altadena’s 104-year holiday lighting tradition known as Christmas Tree Lane escaped damage from the fire despite a torrent of embers coming down on its historic deodar cedars.
• Fierce Santa Ana winds did break branches from some of the trees, but most on Santa Rosa Avenue — the real name of the street — appear unscathed.
• The lights are usually taken down every February, but the head of the volunteer association hopes they can be turned on again “to show we’re still here.”
The people who tend Altadena’s venerable deodar cedars have suffered incomprehensible community losses this week, but Santa Rosa Avenue, a.k.a. Christmas Tree Lane, is a tiny bright spot among the wreckage wrought by the Eaton fire.
Despite what residents described as a fiery rain of embers propelled by hurricane force winds, the street’s 135 cedars seemed unfazed by the fire. The raging Santa Ana winds have broken a few branches, but overall, the massive trees with their graceful drapey limbs seem fine, which means the community’s 104-year holiday light tradition can continue.
Tony Ward and his wife, Maureen, longtime residents of Santa Rosa Avenue and past presidents of the Christmas Tree Lane Assn., went out for dinner in Hastings Ranch on Jan. 7, after the power went out at their home.
The wind was intense when they left “but there wasn’t any discussion on the media about a fire,” Ward said.
Their dinner outing was short. Before their meal was served, Ward said, “the waiter came up and apologized. He said, ‘We have to give you the meal to go because we have an evacuation order.’ ”
The Wards’ home of nearly 50 years is at the southern end of Santa Rosa Avenue, near Woodbury Road, about six miles west of Hastings Ranch. As the couple returned home and looked to the north, “we could see Eaton Canyon was totally involved in fire, from top to bottom, and we were flabbergasted. It happened so fast,” Ward said.
Once they got home, they began packing “all the things we could think of, photos and business records, into our car and van,” in case they had to evacuate, Ward said. “The wind was intense, and the smoke was just heavy, heavy, heavy.”
The Wards have lived in their home for 50 years and never experienced this kind of fire event. Between the constant roar of the wind and the advancing flames, sleep was impossible that night.
They joined their neighbor standing watch outside “to see if anything flared up so we could run and stamp it out,” Ward said.
By 2:30 a.m. last Wednesday, “we noticed embers flying all the way down from way up in the [Angeles National] forest. They would strike the trees [the deodar cedars] and burst into little sparklers. And most of the embers went out, but this was something we’d never experienced before,” he said.
“And in addition to the wind roaring, there were very loud reports we could hear in the background, which we surmised to be exploding canisters of fuel for barbecues and outdoor space heater,” he added. “It was pretty scary because the wind was so intense, and the dust and ashes, everything was right in your eyes. And who thinks of wearing safety goggles? We had no idea that anything like this could happen so far away from the canyons and the national forest.”
When the evacuation order came at 5 a.m., the Wards finally left. They were able to return briefly last Thursday and found their home still standing. It turns out that most of the houses on Santa Rosa Avenue south of Mariposa Street escaped fire damage, although houses on adjoining streets were burned.
And the cedars, most of which were planted in the late 1880s, seemed fine.
However, there is wind damage. A few large branches broken in the heavy winds dragged strings of lights with them to the street. But the trees didn’t burn, and it’s not clear why.
“They are pretty lusciously green,” said Cristhian Mace, a natural areas biologist for Los Angeles County Parks and Recreation, “which makes me think they were well irrigated, and that’s probably one of the factors that saved them. They weren’t dry and brittle, and when you look at cedar bark, it’s thick and somewhat fire resistant. … I don’t know how else to account for their resiliency.”
The trees are well tended by the Christmas Tree Lane Assn., but they are largely cared for by the homeowners on whose property the trees reside, said Assn. President Scott Wardlaw. During drought years, the association has taken steps to give the trees extra water, but usually, Wardlaw said, it has to warn homeowners against overwatering the deodar cedars. Too much water can lead to Armillaria root disease, a deadly form of root rot.
Preserving the trees is critical, because without the cedars, there is no Christmas Tree Lane.
It takes 10 weekends and more than a 100 volunteers to string those lights every year; volunteers begin their work in September to be ready for Altadena’s free winter festival and tree lighting event in early December. The same volunteers usually start taking the lights down for the year in February to avoid winter rains.
The festival is traditionally held in the parking area of the Altadena Public Library at the corner of Mariposa Street and Santa Rosa Avenue. Last week, several buildings at the intersection burned, including the Altadena Senior Center next door, but the library was saved.
The area lighting event that began in 1920 still has a small-town, old-fashioned feel, with booths and hot chocolate, local leaders making speeches and attendees walking the route once the lights are turned on. The Christmas Tree Lane display itself is pretty low-tech, with no music or special effects. But it still draws thousands of people every year for the simple pleasure of driving slowly for a near mile under a canopy of sparkly lights.
Wardlaw said at least 13 of the Christmas Tree Lane volunteers lost homes in the fire. Also, the local school that had let the association park its truck and store its container of equipment for free was destroyed in the fire.
Now the association is grappling with where it will store its truck and equipment, which didn’t burn in the fire.
The trick will be finding a new storage place the cash-strapped nonprofit can afford. “The cheapest storage units charge around $5 a day for a truck, nearly $1,900 a year, which we can’t afford for just parking,” Wardlaw said.
The association relies on annual $35 memberships and sponsors to cover its expenses, and several of its sponsors, including Altadena Hardware, St. Mark’s School, Pasadena Waldorf School and Western Fence Co., lost buildings in the fire.
Those losses have weighed heavy on Wardlaw, who, like most displaced Altadena residents, is chafing to get into the burned areas, presently closed to the public, to see what has been lost, and what, if anything, can be saved. The broken tree branches on the street will have to be cleared away, he said, and the strings of lights, many of which are likely broken, will have to be repaired or replaced.
The work will require volunteers, many of whom will be preoccupied by their own losses, Wardlaw acknowledged, but he sees the work ahead as a tiny act of defiance against all the fire’s terrible destruction.
“Something I want to do, if it’s feasible, is turn the lights on again as soon as possible,” he said, “Just so we can say, ‘We’re still here.’ ”
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