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Liza Colón-Zayas has put in the work. In 'The Bear,' she makes every second count

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Liza Colón-Zayas has put in the work. In 'The Bear,' she makes every second count

There is no nail-biting stress for Liza Colón-Zayas in this restaurant. On a balmy June afternoon, she enters the homey, brightly colored space of Mofongos, a family-run North Hollywood Puerto Rican eatery, and instinctively begins moving her hips to the beat of Ángel Canales’ ”Sabor, los Rumberos Nuevos,” which slaps the eardrums upon entering.

In scheduling our meet-up, she had one request: shining a light on a small business akin to the one featured on “The Bear,” the hit FX series about the people working in the chaotic kitchen of a Chicago sandwich shop turned fine-dining restaurant. It’s less than a week before the third season of the series drops — it’s now streaming on Hulu — and the Nuyorican actress, who plays no-nonsense cook Tina Marrero, has never been to this establishment yet quickly offers guidance on the dishes to the rookie in front of her.

“You like pork?” she begins. “There’s also arroz con gandules, which is yellow rice, with the sofrito and pigeon peas. Mofongo, as the name suggests, are fried plantains mashed together with crispy pork skin and they fill it in the pilon with whatever you want — shrimp, chicken or pork — and a sauce around it.”

At just over 5 feet tall, Colón-Zayas seems smaller seated at this tabletop that’s glossed with a photo of Puerto Rican baseball icon Roberto Clemente. Unlike her character, she isn’t stingy or curt with her words and is more likely to insist you sample her order of mofongo de carne guisada than try to sabotage the cooking of your stock by turning up the flame to high heat. But much like her character, Colón-Zayas knows what it’s like to be in plain sight, putting in the work for years, hoping for the nexus of potential and opportunity.

With a nearly 30-year career, Colón-Zayas is an Off Broadway veteran. She’s performed on a string of television shows and films over the years, often in day-player roles but also in roles that tapped her range. Then came “The Bear,” FX’s critical and audience darling, which has nabbed a slew of awards to back up the hype.

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For two seasons, her character has simmered on the back burner — active and essential but not at a full boil just yet. As a new regime takes over at the Original Beef of Chicagoland following the death of its owner, Michael “Mikey” Berzatto (Jon Bernthal), Tina’s guard is up, resistant to the orders being slung at her by new, younger bosses. In time, she relaxes enough to see that change could be for the better — last season, she enrolled in culinary school and was promoted to sous chef.

“I get her,” Colón-Zayas says. “She’s on guard, like, ‘You’re walking into my territory.’ This is not just a job. This is a made family. Restaurants, old-school traditional ones, are shutting down all around us. She doesn’t know what the changes Carmy is trying to make will mean. And we’ve just lost a family member, Mikey.”

In the third season, Tina comes into focus. And so does Colón-Zayas.

Jeremy Allen White as Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto and Liza Colon-Zayas as Tina in “The Bear.”

(Matt Dinerstein / FX)

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Episode 6, titled “Napkins,” rewinds back five years before the petite and sharp-tongued working mom was stretching her culinary potential. Already stressed about finances after a rent increase, Tina loses her job managing payroll at a confectionery company. Her husband, played by Colón-Zayas’ real-life spouse, David Zayas (“Dexter”), is a doorman waiting for a promotion that will never come. With bruised pride, financial anxiety and ample copies of her résumé in hand, Tina pounds the pavement each day — smile locked in — seeking work but being met with indifference or outright rejection.

“I am glad to know that she was far more respectable than I thought she’d be,” says Colón-Zayas, who didn’t create a backstory for the character beyond deciding she was a transplant from New York. “When we’re introduced to Tina, she’s pretty hardcore, but we know she’s a mom. I didn’t realize that she had a 9-to-5, and they were working poor, they were stable, and [she and her husband] are in love. There was this whole other peaceful, kind of normal side of her life.”

A pivotal moment in the episode, which was directed by Ayo Edebiri (who plays Sydney Adamu in the series), arrives when Tina, after one particularly disappointing day on the job search, steps foot in the show’s central sandwich shop. The volume gets turned up, both in sound and grace. She orders only a coffee but is given a free Italian beef sandwich by the boisterous but kind staff.

1

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A woman at a counter grabbing a white lunch bag.

2 A woman looks up at a man who is cradling her head in his hands.

1. Tina (Liza Colón-Zayas) at the Beef. (FX) 2. Liza Colon-Zayas as Tina with her husband, David Zayas. (FX)

As she finds a table away from the chaos, she’s overcome by the reality of her situation, crying into her food. When Mikey checks on her, it leads to a heartfelt conversation between them — in part, about people who get to live out their dreams and the people who are just trying to survive — that ends with him offering her a job. The scene was shot over two days.

Edebiri says she wanted that moment to feel like viewers were stepping back to Season 1, recalling the noise and frenetic energy, while showcasing Colón-Zayas’ prowess as an actor.

“One of the many amazing things about Liza is she’s so petite, and so you’re about to use this sense of wonder,” Edebiri says. “She does a lot of that with just her face and her openness, but Tina’s coming from also this really arduous journey of rejection — shocking and demoralizing rejection — and then in this really chaotic and unexpected place she finds warmth.”

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The scene is also a window into Mikey, whom we’ve seen glimpses of throughout the series, but his connection to the staff and what his loss meant comes further into focus.

“Mikey is such a complicated character; we see so many different facets of him,” Edebiri says. “He’s a tough, damaged guy, but he has a lot of love, and invoked a lot of love in people. I think Tina is such an important person to that story.”

The left side profile of a woman with short, curly brown hair.

Liza Colón-Zayas says she didn’t create a backstory for Tina, but in Season 3 we learn more. “There was this whole other peaceful, kind of normal side of her life.”

(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

It gets Colón-Zayas thinking of her own journey to this point in her career.

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The youngest of five children, she lived in subsidized housing in the South Bronx with her mother. (Her parents split when she was young, but her father was in her life.) Her gumption revealed itself at an early age. When she was 7, she wrote a letter to the producers of “The Partridge Family” to consider her as a replacement for red-haired, tambourine-playing Tracy Partridge: “I was gonna run away. I was gonna take a taxi, and I was gonna take over because I could play the tambourine much better. Then my brother saw the letter and opened it and read it out loud and made fun of me, and I was mortified. It never got sent.” But she found other ways to hone her craft: impersonating Erica Kane, Susan Lucci’s character on the ABC soap “All My Children,” for guests at her mother’s repeated request.

Talking about her early dreams evokes other emotions. At 16, she joined the Church of Bible Understanding, a controversial religious group. When she was approached by members of the congregation on Fordham Road in the Bronx, her family situation was tough. “They seemed very caring,” she says.

Describing the group as a cult, she said it encouraged isolation from and distrust of nonmembers. She left home at 18 and was taken to Philadelphia, near where the group was founded. There, she took a training course with the church and recruited for it while also working a full-time job at a bakery. The church kept the money she earned and wouldn’t deliver messages or mail from her family.

“I got in deep,” Colón-Zayas says, her eyes turning glassy. “There was no sexual abuse or physical violence to me. And I never witnessed that. It was mind control.”

She eventually returned to New York and, after some vacillating, broke ties with the church. She attended SUNY Albany and her world opened up after she saw a play by Native American women. “I remember thinking, ‘This is what I want to do.’”

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She has been a part of the LAByrinth Theater Company since its founding in 1992 and began her acting career off-Broadway, appearing in productions of Quiara Alegría Hudes‘ “Water by the Spoonful” and originating numerous roles in Stephen Adly Guirgis’ works including “In Arabia We’d All Be Kings,” “Our Lady of 121st Street” and “Between Riverside and Crazy.” (She reprised her role in “Between Riverside and Crazy” for a third time in 2022, making her Broadway debut in the process.) She also wrote, produced and starred in “Sistah Supreme,” a semiautobiographical solo show about growing up Latina in New York in the 1970s and ’80s.

“LAByrinth became my artistic community,” says Colón-Zayas, who felt frustrated by both the scarcity of roles for Latinx actors and the stereotypical tones roles often had. “That’s always my advice to young people: Find your artistic community. Find the people who hold you up. It could be just two or three of you, but if they hold you up and you have the same interest and you want to meet in your house and do writing exercises and read scenes or whatever, it helps you stand taller.”

According to Guirgis, a longtime friend who directed “Sistah Supreme,” what makes Colón-Zayas so compelling as a performer is her push for truth and that she draws from a deep well of lived experience.

“She’s always going to give you 100% of her heart, and that is going to end up being something onstage that’s going to be painful, funny, truthful, outrageous but real. Her acting doesn’t seem like acting,” he said.

After years of small roles in shows like “Law & Order,” “Sex and the City” and “Nurse Jackie,” Colón-Zayas got her first recurring role in 2019 on the short-lived OWN drama “David Makes Man.” In 2021, she booked another recurring role in HBO’s revival of “In Treatment.” Then came the role of Tina on “The Bear.”

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Her husband commended her perseverance as an actor, maneuvering through disappointment and frustration but eventually finding mainstream visibility.

“The way she dealt with the reality at the time, which was there weren’t many opportunities for someone like Liza, and her struggles with it, yet finding ways to get through it,” Zayas says of his wife. “She’s got a great reputation in theater, she’s done amazing work in theater. So just watching her continuing to move forward is inspiring.”

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In her youth, Colón-Zayas got some experience working in restaurants. She worked at a doughnut shop and the counter at a deli, and waited tables at a family-owned Italian restaurant in Albany. “I was always spilling something or getting orders wrong,” she says.

And while she enjoys cooking, she’s modest about her skills. In order to prepare for Season 2 and Tina’s new role as sous-chef, Colón-Zayas did intense training for a week with James Beard Award-winning chef David Waltuck of Chanterelle and with Courtney Storer — the sister of “The Bear” creator Christopher Storer — who is a culinary producer on the show and previously held senior roles at Animal and Jon & Vinny’s in Los Angeles.

“I learned all of the basics, even how to properly hold the knife,” Colón-Zayas says. “I had no idea how sharp those knives were. Day 1, I must have had maybe four or five bandages on my finger because the blades are so sharp you don’t feel it. I’m no pro at home, but I’m better.”

A woman with short hair smiles widely with her eyes closed

“She’s always going to give you 100% of her heart,” says playwright Stephen Adly Guirgis, who has worked closely with Liza Colón-Zayas over the years.

(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

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It’s quite the turn for the actress who said she once failed to return a copy of a James Beard cookbook when she was a teenager. Not that she ever dared to make a recipe from it: “I had intentions, but it’s a lot of scary ingredients for a poor kid.”

For what it’s worth, Guirgis says Colón-Zayas makes the best roast chicken, which he describes as “out of this world, juicy and absolute perfection.” Asked about her technique, she says her trick is marinating it for a few hours in white vinegar, a ton of garlic, oregano and pepper. “When you put it in to roast, soak a paper towel in oil, so that when you cover it with the foil, it will not rip the skin. And brush the top skin with a little more seasoning and oil so it crisps up real cute, to the point where, when you take it out, it should be falling off the bone.”

Knowing the ins and outs of cooking is one thing. Navigating how surreal it feels to be on one of TV’s buzziest shows is something Colón-Zayas is still getting used to.

“I realize, in hindsight, there are things the universe protected me from myself because I wasn’t ready then,” she says. “It’s hard to take in the good things when you’re always used to scarcity, when your friends and loved ones are struggling. I don’t want to be perceived as being insensitive to that. To have this episode, that is Ayo’s directorial debut, and it’s all me, I cried every time I read the script. It validated that I had a gift.”

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Determined not to let the tears welling in her eyes cascade down, she pivots.

“Anyway,” she says, as she moves the food on her plate around as the restaurant’s lively soundtrack overwhelms the moment. By the time we make our way out, she’s let the rhythm find her again.

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Movie Reviews

Trigger Warning Movie Review: Enjoyable action in this revenge film

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Trigger Warning Movie Review: Enjoyable action in this revenge film

Boom. Crack. Crunch. That’s the nature of Trigger Warning, starring an in-form Jessica Alba as an active-duty Special Forces commando, Parker, who comes to her hometown after her father’s demise. Alba performs throat-slashing, bone-crunching stunts in some supremely well-executed action sequences. In one scene, after saving her male friend, Spider (Tone Bell), she quips, “Sup! Damsel in distress.” There is a lot to like in this action thriller, even though it occasionally suffers from some convenient writing and perhaps has a protagonist who’s almost invincible.

Director: Mouly Surya

Cast: Jessica Alba, Anthony Michael Hall, Mark Webber, Jake Weary, Gabriel Basso

Streamer: Netflix

We first see Alba’s character, Parker, as she is in mid-combat, trying to take down terrorists. Parker, who has an espionage background, suspects that there might be foul play around her father’s death. The truth about it unravels around all the mayhem. The violence is not all about the gun. In an impactful stunt scene, after her rifle is knocked down, she coolly grabs a knife and stabs him in the heart. Soon enough, we understand where she got the knife from, and why there’s some poetic justice being dispensed as she wields it to threaten intruders, slash tyres, and more. For the first half hour, the film maintains an aura of suspense about the protagonist’s personality and motives, but once the cat gets out of the bag, the rest of the film, even if with enterprising stunt scenes, turns into a routine revenge thriller.

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Once perpetrators get identified around the halfway mark, it’s just a matter of scores being settled. It’s here that the convenient writing proves to be a bit of a dampener. We learn early on that Spider is good at cyber-hacking, but later, how this skill comes in handy isn’t exactly a great moment. A bigger issue perhaps is how Parker is invincible. Even when unarmed and handcuffed, no enemy can truly dominate her. This means that when she does slide out of tough spots, it’s not exactly a surprise.

All said, Trigger Warning does have quite a bit going for it. The writing, for instance, ensures that Parker isn’t just fighting a personal battle. Her resistance is also for the greater good of the country, resonating with her values as a soldier. So, even if it’s a film with flaws, Jessica Alba’s stunt dynamism is eye-catching. If you are considering checking this film out, just remember that it’s about a protagonist that shoots first and asks questions later. 

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Blumhouse's latest strategy to scare the hell out of you: video games

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Blumhouse's latest strategy to scare the hell out of you: video games

Over the last 15 years, Blumhouse has built a reputation for success by producing low-cost, original indie horror films. Now, the studio best known for such movies as the “Paranormal Activity” franchise and “M3gan” is looking to do the same in video games.

The Los Angeles-based film and TV production company recently announced its first slate of games, starting with an homage to ’90s teen horror films called “Fear the Spotlight,” a third-person, puzzle-solving adventure that’s expected to come out in the fall on desktop and consoles.

The studio saw an especially relevant opportunity — not only was the games industry growing, particularly among young people, but Blumhouse’s own fans frequently identified as gamers, Blumhouse President Abhijay Prakash said in an interview.

“I don’t think you can be in the entertainment space and not notice or be aware of gaming,” Prakash said. “The market is growing globally and diversifying its audience, it’s super relevant to the audience we’re already in touch with, and there was a business opportunity for us to do what we did in movies and apply it to games.”

Blumhouse is the latest studio entrant to the massive video game market. Megan Ellison’s indie firm, Annapurna, has a gaming division, as do brother David Ellison’s Skydance Media and J.J. Abrams’ Bad Robot. Warner Bros. Discovery’s gaming unit has long churned out big franchise titles, including last year’s Harry Potter-themed hit, “Hogwarts Legacy.”

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“It’s not just potential revenue,” said Danny Bilson, director of USC Games, a joint program with the university’s engineering school. “It’s culture. It’s fishing where the fish are.”

Gaming is big business. More than 190 million Americans play video games at least once a week. U.S. consumer games spending last year totaled $57.2 billion, according to the Entertainment Software Assn., an industry trade group.

Globally, revenue last year from the games industry was estimated at $183.9 billion, a slight increase compared with 2022, according to a report updated in May by Amsterdam-based gaming research firm Newzoo.

Moreover, the amount of time people spend gaming — and importantly, how much money they spend — has remained resilient through recessions. (The industry, however, has recently experienced a pullback after a pandemic-fueled boom in hiring and production, resulting in thousands of layoffs.)

“Gaming continues to be a much more interactive and exciting way to enjoy entertainment,” said Josh Chapman, co-founder and managing partner at Konvoy Ventures, a Denver-based venture capital firm that focuses on gaming investments. “It’s no surprise that Hollywood studios are looking to games as additional revenue. … It’s a way to get their IP [intellectual property] in front of a new fan base.”

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The pipeline also has run the opposite direction, sometimes to great success. Postapocalyptic video game franchise “The Last of Us” spawned the wildly popular HBO series of the same name, starring Pedro Pascal. Bethesda’s “Fallout” games became the basis of a show for Amazon’s Prime Video.

Blumhouse executives began thinking about expanding into games about three years ago. Chief Financial Officer Josh Small, who previously helped Annapurna get into gaming, was a key driver of those discussions, Prakash said.

The company hired veteran video game producer Zach Wood and former PlayStation executive Don Sechler to run the gaming division, which launched last year.

Games can be expensive to produce. But as with its low-budget horror films, Blumhouse is taking what executives describe as a “lean and mean” approach to the sector. The division is targeting indie-level budgets, mostly under $5 million per title.

Blumhouse Games, which has a handful of employees, serves as a publisher, partnering with indie developers to finance and make the games, then taking the final product to platforms like online gaming marketplace Steam, as well as Xbox, PlayStation and Switch, where consumers can pay per game.

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So far, the games slate has hewed closely to the horror content of Blumhouse’s roots.

“Fear the Spotlight,” developed by L.A.-based Cozy Game Pals, centers on two teen girls who venture into an abandoned school to conduct a seance, an undertaking that inevitably goes wrong. “Crisol: Theater of Idols,” from Madrid-based developer Vermila Studios, combines religion with horror and requires the player to use their avatar’s own blood as ammunition. The slate will include a mix of desktop and console games, as well as mobile games.

Perhaps surprisingly, one thing the current slate doesn’t include is any game related to Blumhouse movies. That means players won’t find games that expand the universe of “The Purge” or allow them to dance with M3gan. The current separation between the games and Blumhouse studio stories was intentional, said Wood, who serves as president of Blumhouse Games.

“It’s a games-first approach,” he said. Though the team knew fans would expect to see games based on Blumhouse‘s films, they wanted to focus first on originals, “similar to how Jason [Blum] built the film business,” he said.

Wood added that Blumhouse Games doesn’t evaluate pitches from developers with an eye toward film or TV partnerships. Though the games subsidiary does talk with the studio side — and the door is open to future collaborations — the focus is on “building trust with fans” to expect creative, unique horror games, he said.

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It’s a strategy similar to that of Bad Robot Games, which started as a small subsidiary and evolved into a larger game developer and publisher. Bad Robot Games now focuses on a mix of existing intellectual property and new stories, Chief Executive Anna Sweet said in a statement.

“Gameplay always comes first,” she said. “Once we find the fun, we then look at how we can build a world and story that complements it.”

Developing games based on existing movies is often a way for studios to expand a film’s popularity and increase longevity — and monetization — among fans. Netflix has expanded its mobile-only game offerings with new titles based on its hit reality shows, such as “Too Hot to Handle,” to reduce subscriber churn and increase the time viewers spend on its service. But betting on existing movies doesn’t always work.

Warner Bros. Discovery took a $200-million hit to its profit in the first fiscal quarter this year due to poor sales of its game “Suicide Squad: Kill the Justice League.” (Company Chief Executive David Zaslav called the release “disappointing” in a May call with financial analysts.)

Walt Disney Co., too, has had its ups and downs with games. After years of struggling as a game developer and publisher, the company adopted a licensing model in 2016 that allowed it to work with outside entities to make games based on Disney characters and stories.

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In February, Disney leaned harder into that strategy by announcing a $1.5-billion deal with “Fortnite” developer Epic Games for a minority stake in the company and the creation of a “games and entertainment universe” involving Disney brands.

“The best media companies in Hollywood will figure out gaming as a tool,” said Konvoy’s Chapman. “If they launch into games, opening weekend remains important but less important. It’s more about, how do you monetize this over time?”

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When movie ratings make absolutely no sense

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When movie ratings make absolutely no sense

We need to talk about the critic reviews for The Acolyte. Critics and audiences have been at war for years.


Audiences usually accuse critics of being either out of touch or biased because they tend to downplay the quality of popular movies and shows. On the other hand, critics have a reputation for assigning ridiculously high scores to content audiences could not care less about.

I usually defend the critics even though I rarely agree with their opinions because audiences have a ridiculously warped perception where this topic is concerned. First of all, audience and critic scores are not quite as divergent as online conversations suggest.

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Check Rotten Tomatoes. You might be surprised to learn that most shows and films have similar audience and critic ratings. Generally speaking, audiences and critics like the same things. Those significant differences people obsess over only emerge in rare instances.

Unfortunately, those are the cases audiences highlight because they concern highly publicized films and shows. But even if those differences were more common than the evidence suggests, you can’t accuse critics of being ‘out of touch with the public’ because they are not paid to be ‘in touch’ with anyone.

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Are some critics biased? Definitely, but they are the minority. That said, the divide between critic and audience scores for The Acolyte is astounding. Right now, the show has a critic rating of 85 percent and an audience score of 14 percent on Rotten Tomatoes. Naturally, some people blame the abysmal audience score on review bombing.

That term refers to a situation where large groups of people assign a negative score to a movie or show without watching it because they want to make a point. You can’t dismiss the review bombing allegations because a rabid section of the Star Wars fanbase continues to express its desire to destroy The Acolyte’s reputation online because of the social and political messages it peddles.

But even if you eliminated the trolls, the show’s audience score would most likely peak at 30 percent. In that regard, I would expect the critic rating to settle in the 60s, showing that critics are not blind to The Acolyte’s weaknesses, but they also appreciate subtle strengths such as the acting and production values.

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An 85 percent rating is pure madness. It says that critics absolutely love a productthat audiences completely despise, and that does not make sense. You expect to see that sort of discrepancy with artsy indie projects that critics typically swoon over, not big-budget shows that are explicitly designed to appeal to mainstream audiences.

Before you argue that Rotten Tomatoes does not accurately reflect the critical response to this show, no one cared about The Acolyte. In fact, viewers initially rejected the show because of the lackluster trailers.

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Remember Episode 3 from a week ago? Diehard Star Wars fans nearly rioted because it supposedly broke Star Wars canon by hinting at Mae and Osha’s immaculate conception. Casual fans like me don’t care about Star Wars canon. We thought the episode was boring.

And critics? They had early access to the episode and praised it as one of the most mind- blowing 35 minutes of Star Wars they had ever seen. Clearly, something is amiss. It is almost like audiences and critics are watching two different shows. I can’t help but wonder whether the online conspiracies are correct and Hollywood critics are only impressed by The Acolyte because of the diverse cast.

If you argued that the presence of minority characters (black female leads, Asian Jedi, lesbian witches, etc) was actively swaying their opinions, I would have a difficult time disputing your claim.

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I agree that art is subjective and some viewers have genuinely enjoyed The Acolyte thus far; however, the drastic difference in audience and critic scores shows that Disney (and Lucasfilm) took a wrong turn somewhere.

katmic200@gmail.com

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