Culture
NHL agent poll: Best and worst owners, Connor McDavid’s contract, future GMs

Who are the best and toughest front offices to deal with in the NHL? Which owners are known for giving players what they need? What does the league need to do to improve?
Asking players these questions can yield some pretty good results, but there are limits to that approach. Players have relatively limited exposure to organizations outside their own. And some shy away from expressing controversial takes — even anonymously.
Want an unvarnished opinion on all things NHL? Talk to an agent. Agents often represent several players, whose employers span multiple teams and divisions. They spend their days talking to players, other agents and NHL general managers. And they’re experts on the business side of hockey.
Over the past several months, The Athletic polled 19 agents, who combine to represent hundreds of NHL player contracts, on 10 key questions facing the league and its future. Agents were granted anonymity to encourage honest and candid answers.
1. What is the area the NHL can improve the most?
What’s holding the NHL back? Mainly marketing, agents said.
The bulk of responses centered around the league’s perceived failings when it comes to selling the game and its star players, bringing in new audiences and growing hockey-related revenue (HRR). To be fair, though, all agents were polled before the recent 4 Nations Face-Off, which was a grand success for the NHL and the NHL Players’ Association.
“The NHL has a compelling product, it’s the most exciting live experience of any of the major pro sports,” one agent said, echoing the majority of respondents. “Yet (the folks) running the league seemed content for decades to be focused more on fighting the players over using them to grow the game.”
“This is where the NBA has probably done a better job than us and the NFL is hitting on all cylinders,” another said. “Just using the crest and the trophy is not enough anymore.”
One agent, however, noted a hurdle faced by the league in promoting player personalities: the players themselves.
“I would like to say ‘selling their players better,’ but the guys are so humble, it’s hard to sell them,” the agent said. “Other sports leagues do that better, but their personalities are bigger.”
Meanwhile, more than one agent highlighted the NHL’s problem in getting the games in front of viewers.
“We’re missing the opportunity to expand the game to a more casual fan,” one said. “We haven’t quite unlocked what the key is to bringing the live experience to TV in a better way. If you watch old games from the ’60s or ’70s, they’re kind of shot more or less the same way as now.”
How the league sets up the schedule and its key events drew criticism as well. Here are some other areas in which agents feel the league could improve:
On the playoff format: “I wouldn’t mind them going back (to) 1 seed vs. 8 seed instead of the divisional stuff. There’s got to be incentives to having great regular seasons. Same matchups every year in the playoffs.”
On expanding the playoff field: “The league continues to grow and it sounds like we’re going to continue to grow beyond the 32, so I’m really surprised the owners haven’t pushed this for their own selfish reasons. For certain markets, it would create hope right to the end.”
On scheduling: “With the 4 Nations, Olympics, the World Cup — I think the PA, the league have failed the players, the fans, the owners instead of really understanding the wear and tear it has on the product.”
On scheduling: “I’d like to see staggered start times, and I don’t know how we go three or four nights with literally no games or one or two and then all of a sudden everybody plays.”
On player safety: “My thing here lately is the inconsistencies with player safety. For some things that go unpunished and some things that do, I can never get a read on what they’re doing or thinking. Some of these things that should be suspensions and certainly significant fines, they slip by. There’s no punishment. And others that are borderline, there’s heavy stuff. There needs to be a consistent standard.”
On the de-centralization of the draft: “I hate (the change). It’s a big thing for that city to have. I think the draft is an amazing thing.”
The answers in this category offer more evidence of how far the NHL has come in the Sun Belt.
On-ice success is, of course, a big factor here, but so are other areas. Atmosphere, culture and leadership matter a lot, too.
“You have to look at Tampa with the way the owner’s very good at being hands-off,” one agent said. “(Owner Jeff Vinik) sat back, hired the best people and let them do their jobs.”
“Tampa is awesome,” echoed another. “Players want to be there. They’re buying houses there and spending post-career there.”
For similar reasons, the other Florida team ranks high on agents’ lists.
“(The Panthers) are in sync and connected between ownership and management,” an agent said. “They turned things around in short order with (GM) Billy Zito going in there. They’re fair. They’ve developed in short order to become a destination. Those guys take less to go there because of the tax advantages down there.”
In Vegas, one of the league’s youngest franchises has quickly gained a reputation for winning — at all costs.
“They’ve been consistently competitive,” an agent said. “They don’t hesitate to do whatever it takes, although it may be cold-blooded at times to improve the franchise. But if you’re rating them on their ability to execute on a game plan, I think from Day One they’ve been pretty impressive.”
The Dallas Stars also received credit for on-ice success.
“From top to bottom, their scouting is outstanding, their development is outstanding. Obviously management,” an agent said.
Added another: “They’ve just found so many players. And frankly they’re really good people.”
One somewhat surprising entry here might be the Jets. One agent praised the team for on-ice success in the face of attendance and business concerns.
“They are able to draft, develop very well,” an agent said. “The West is a beast, but I’m impressed, for a smaller market, how they’re able to operate.”
The Maple Leafs, on the other hand, received credit on the business side in spite of on-ice struggles (at least in the playoffs).
“I think they’ve outdone the Rangers. They’ve outdone Boston. They’ve outdone Montreal,” an agent said. “So I’ve got to give them their due as far as growing revenues in this business and running it like a corporate enterprise.”
Several agents struggled to limit their answer to just one team, so 25 of the NHL’s 32 teams received at least one vote.
In this category, words like “reasonable,” “accessible” and “honest” carry a lot of weight.
That’s the case when it comes to Tampa GM Julien Brisebois.
“Julien’s pretty straightforward,” one agent said. “Very accessible, easy to deal with. Player-friendly.”
“They don’t mess around,” added another. “I like JB.”
It’s the case with the Wild and GM Bill Guerin, too.
“Bill Guerin’s reasonable and easy to deal with and easy to have a conversation with,” an agent said. “Very honest.”
“Billy G’s always fair,” added another.
Minnesota and Guerin also received credit for staying competitive in the face of salary cap-related issues over the past several seasons.
“It’s truly amazing how competitive they’ve been the last three years spending $13-$15 million less than anyone else. Imagine if they could have fielded full rosters.”
People love Jim Nill in Dallas.
“Classiest, most honest guy in the league,” said one agent.
Some agents noted a desire to deal with former player agents, such as Zito of the Panthers.
“I like dealing with Billy Zito. He’s been on both sides of it,” one said.
Canadiens GM Kent Hughes is another former agent. His partnership in Montreal with front-office veteran Jeff Gorton was a highlight for one agent.
“Kent Hughes is a very charming guy, and right into it. Jeff Gorton and him, I met with those guys, they were like two brothers fighting when I talked to them. They’re funny. To actually rebuild is hard. They’ve done a nice job over there. They’re on the right track.”
Interestingly, the Ducks and Islanders — Nos. 1 and 2 in this poll’s “most difficult to deal with” category, respectively — each drew a mention here.
“I know it’s a crazy thing to say, but I have such trust in dealing with Lou,” an agent said of Islanders GM Lou Lamoriello. “He’s so honest. What he says is what he means, and vice versa.”
Another agent felt similarly about the regime in Anaheim: “I like the old-school, straight-shooting guys.”
As most agents quipped at first, “This would have been easy a year ago — Arizona. Poor Billy (Armstrong) had his hands tied, but the rest was unstable as hell. Not anymore in Utah.”
Forced to choose a new answer, most agents picked Buffalo due to more than a decade of struggles.
The Sabres haven’t made the playoffs since 2011. They haven’t won a playoff series since 2007. They’ve been rebuilding for what seems like forever. And they’re currently holding down last place in the Eastern Conference.
“Buffalo has just decades of mediocrity and is just a mess,” one agent said.
Multiple agents brought up Anaheim: “The Ducks are not run well enough and are so difficult to deal with.”
The Blackhawks garnered votes here for a perceived mismanagement of their rebuild so far — especially after adding Connor Bedard.
“When you got it all, you’ve got to run it like you do. I don’t think they have a plan,” one agent said. “It should be getting done right. For what they’ve been given, Chicago and Detroit are the biggest letdowns. They’ve been given the keys to the kingdom, but my gosh.”
Two agents wondered about the Yzerplan in Detroit.
“They’re really unstable,” one said. “There’s no plan, although they may say there’s one.”
One agent questioned the strategy in Nashville.
“They spent $108 million on free agents this summer — older free agents, but yet they just have five first-round picks just sitting there and not developing. So what’s the plan? What’s the direction?”
One agent described the Ducks front office as something of a throwback.
“When I started, everybody was angry and telling you to go f— yourself,” one agent said. “So I kinda miss that. Anaheim, personality-wise, they’re tough. (GM Pat Verbeek) is cranky and runs the show himself and (assistant GM Jeff Solomon) is a grinder. I like those two guys, but tough. I appreciate when they’re a–holes.”
“Verbeek is ridiculous. He draws lines in the sand and sticks by it irrationally,” one said.
“The guy that makes Anaheim tough is Jeff Solomon,” another added. “He does all their contracts. Something as simple as doing entry-level deals … there’s always something they nickel you.”
A so-called old-school mentality was a theme here. So, no surprise that the New York Islanders, with a front office led by the eldest statesman of NHL GMs, fall into the category.
“They’re the biggest pain in the ass to deal with,” one agent said. “A lot of old-school people, and (Lou Lamoriello) has no ability to let someone else have responsibility. It’s all through him, and every conversation is draining.”
“I respect the Islanders, but Lou definitely holds tight,” an agent added. “When he locks in his heels, he locks in his heels.”
Complaints about Carolina, which tied for second here, centered on owner Tom Dundon’s management style.
“It’s dysfunctional how the owner micromanages everything,” an agent said.
But for the most part, answers in this category came down to how tough a front office was perceived to be in negotiations.
An agent on the Golden Knights: “(GM Kelly McCrimmon) is a tough customer.”
And on the Predators: “Nashville is like pulling teeth dealing with them on contracts at all levels.”
Tampa’s Jeff Vinik has found a winning formula — on and off the ice.
“I think he’s done a wonderful job,” an agent said. “He walked in there and turned the franchise around. First-class all the way. I mean, just look at what the area around the rink used to be like compared to now. He’s got to be one of the best owners in sports.”
Another agent put it simply and enthusiastically: “My players say he’s the best owner ever.”
Added another, “That guy gets it. He got it from Day One. He’s done all the right things and hired the right people and stayed out of it, but also done all the things that he needed to do for the market.”
With all the answers here, high rankings go to owners who have deep pockets and are perceived as willing to spend.
That’s the case in Toronto, one of few NHL teams with a corporate ownership structure rather than an individual owner. Agents appreciated MLSE’s willingness to spend on more than player salaries.
“They have the money to basically do whatever they want,” one noted. “They treat their players great.”
“There’s no cost spared with the Leafs,” added another. “If you need an MRI, they’ll get you 35 of them.”
How about the new guy? Utah’s Ryan Smith isn’t new to sports ownership (he has owned a majority stake in the NBA’s Utah Jazz since 2020) and he’s already garnered at least one solid review in his debut NHL season.
“He’s new, but a $3 hot dog, $3 water, $3 pop? It feels like he’s part of the people. He’s the new wave.”
Carolina Hurricanes owner Tom Dundon ran away with this category — something that could raise some eyebrows, given the relative success of his organization.
What’s clear from agents’ comments is that this isn’t really about any specific business decision or issues with spending (a more common sentiment the last time we did this exercise in 2022). It’s more about Dundon’s communication and leadership style, with several describing him as overly involved.
“I don’t know how he has the time or the energy. He’s the de facto GM,” one agent said.
“A lot of people in our business hate it that Tom is so f—ing involved, and he is basically the manager and he has a lot of strong opinions, too, and he’s not afraid to tell all of us privately those opinions.”
“His GMs and assistant GMs … have to ask him permission for anything,” added another.
The idea that the owner’s involvement is affecting the culture was raised several times.
“They’ve got some smart people there, but you just feel their culture by not even working there, just being around it. And it’s not a great one.”
One agent joked: “The worst part of Dundon lapping the competition here is he’s probably proud of it.”
Buffalo’s Terry Pegula took the second spot in this category, but the comments were more focused on a perceived lack of involvement — and a lack of on-ice success.
“Buffalo has swung and missed a lot,” one agent noted.
“He has not done anything,” another said of Pegula. “He’s in left field.”
One agent said a lack of involvement was reason for the Ducks’ Henry Samueli to earn votes, too. “Ownership that isn’t involved when they should be frustrates me. Like, get involved.”
“Whatever the f— he wants.”
That pretty much sums up the general feeling on this one.
When Connor McDavid’s current deal expires after the 2025-26 season, the question isn’t whether he’ll become the highest-paid hockey player of all-time; it’s how much he will make.
The current CBA limits a player to 20 percent of a team’s salary cap. With the cap expected to jump above $100 million for the first time as McDavid’s deal expires, could he be the league’s first $20 million man?
“McDavid should make the max. It’s imperative that he does,” one agent said. “He’s the best player in the league. With that carries the obligation to be paid the highest amount possible, end of story.”
“He’s worth every penny at 20 percent,” another added.
“That guy better get 20 percent of the upper limit,” said another. “He’s by far the best player in the game and will be for awhile and should lead the charge. Our whole league works towards a ceiling, and he should be it.”
Some noted the need to balance a desire to get paid and the desire to win.
“He’s got to decide if he wants to win or not,” one agent said. “He has every right to ask for 20 percent and then go backwards.”
“I would suggest it’s going to be whatever Connor McDavid decides is most appropriate,” another agent said. “I’m sure a lot of people know this, but when he did his last contract, the night before he signed it, he called and took a couple million right off the top because he felt he was taking too much money and they needed more to be able to build the team.”
Another agent noted that McDavid’s contract will need to compare favorably to the eight-year, $112 million extension signed by Oilers teammate Leon Draisaitl in September, which carries an AAV of $14 million.
“I think Connor realizes Stanley Cups are the most important thing, but obviously Leon’s contract’s out there, so I would say a million dollars more than Leon.”
Another agent agreed on that ballpark.
“I’d say 15 percent of the cap, because you need to leave 5 percent cushion for the team to have money to spend to win,” the agent said. “I think that’s fair. Because if the cap goes to $115 million, that’s $15 or $16 million.”
7a. What is the biggest issue in the next CBA negotiations?
The current collective bargaining agreement expires after the 2025-26 season, and the NHLPA and NHL appear confident a deal will be reached amicably.
“I think we are in a good place in terms of our collective bargaining relationship, in terms of our overall relationship,” NHL commissioner Gary Bettman said ahead of the opening game of the 4 Nations Face-Off.
Indeed, many agents are hopeful the next round of negotiations will feature less animosity than we’ve seen in the past.
What are the big issues likely to arise?
“I hope none,” said one agent. “I hope we’ve ironed them out. We’ve had enough battles in my life — over 30-plus years as an agent. We don’t need a battle.”
Still, this question yielded an array of concerns on agents’ minds. Most of them center around money — and exactly how it is divided between owners and players. Several agents noted, for example, that players should get a piece of expansion fees.
“If it’s going to be a real 50-50 partnership, it should be in respect to everything, and I’m not just talking expansion fees,” one agent said. “I’m talking more along the lines of all the insurance and everything that all comes out of the player’s share. Those expenses should be 50-50 as well.”
Escrow came up with nearly half the agents.
“It’s always escrow,” an agent said. “Escrow will be fine as long as HRR keeps going upwards. It’s just making sure HRR continues to grow so everyone can share and it doesn’t rear its ugly head again.”
But a falling Canadian dollar had some worried about the potential hit to HRR.
“The problem we’re having with the Canadian dollar that’s going to be a huge issue because HRR is driven by Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver — they contribute so much. I think we’re going to be into another pickle a couple of years from now.”
Others had thoughts on adjustments to the salary cap.
“(There should be a) luxury tax for teams that want to spend over the cap,” one said.
Another added there should be focus on keeping the cap floor at a sufficiently high level: “I feel like as the cap goes up you’re going to have more and more teams having self-imposed budgets, so that’s a concern.”
7b. What’s an under-the-radar issue that should be addressed?
This was another question that drew a wide array of responses.
The idea that tax regimes in certain markets make teams more or less desirable to players was raised more than once. Is there a better way?
“The cap should be set off teams with no state tax,” one agent said, echoing a few others. “Meaning Wild or Rangers or whoever could spend their percent difference to that of Vegas. Even (the) playing field.”
Not everyone agreed, though.
“That’s a thing I’m sick of hearing about,” an agent countered. “Nobody was talking about this 15 years ago when the Panthers were terrible. It’s complete bulls—. That’s not why players go there. They go there to win.”
Here were some other popular talking points:
On travel: “Cross-conference travel and rivalries. I think they should add an extra in-division game or two in their conference rather than, say, Tampa go to Vancouver. That travel is so taxing and they don’t draw well.”
On new CHL-college rules: “I think there will be a lot of discussion about the four-year college free agency thing. Teams hate that. Agents love it where the guys can basically walk after four years. I think there’s going to have to be a lot of modification based on the CHL-NCAA changes just to try to get people on some sort of level playing ground.”
On signing bonuses: “The signing bonuses haven’t even kept up with the cost of living expenses. If you’re a rookie in New York and told to get an apartment, you’d rather stay in the hotel for three more months. To me, Connor Bedard making a $95,000 signing bonus is crazy. That’s the same as a college free agent. I go to Hawks games and there’s 16,000 Bedard jerseys. Maybe there should be an exception for first-round picks.”
On player safety: “The player safety department needs to be overhauled.”
On waivers: “That entry-level players have to wait so long before they’re eligible to be put on waivers. I think a team should have two years to assess the talent of a player and develop them.”
“Good players getting trapped in the minors for too long.”
It’s not entirely surprising that an overwhelming majority of agents are in favor of expansion.
After all, as one agent put it, “More jobs. Agents would always be for that.”
“I want the NHL to go to 40 teams. Forty-five teams,” another added. “The more the merrier. If we get to 50, I’d be thrilled.”
Some did note, however, that the league should be careful not to dilute the talent pool.
“I don’t think there’s enough good players to expand,” one said.
Most disagreed, arguing more opportunity will result in more stars.
As for where the NHL should go next?
“Going to strong TV markets is the low-hanging fruit and most important element, so Houston makes the most sense,” one agent said.
“Add teams in the U.S. Avoid the Canadian dollar,” another said. “Add Houston and Atlanta, and then realign. Why’s Utah in the Central?”
Here’s what agents had to say on the options:
On Phoenix: “Phoenix can work with the right owner and building. Utah, you see how much difference ownership makes right off the hop. It changed almost immediately.”
On Houston: “Fourth-biggest market in the U.S., and it never gets mentioned. It’s a no-brainer.”
On Quebec City: “I have no idea why they’re not in the league if Winnipeg is.”
On Quebec City negatives: “I don’t want another Canadian city; we need to generate revenue.”
On Atlanta: “Bad ownership plagued them last time. Horrible ownership actually, so find the right group and location, it could work.”
On Atlanta negatives: “F— Atlanta. We’ve tried that a million times. There’s no way.”
On Atlanta negatives: “I’ll believe this Atlanta stuff when we see it. We’ve been there twice. They seem to think it’ll work a third time. We’ll see.”
On Kansas City: An agent pointed to the NFL’s Chiefs as an example. “Maybe they can get that market.”
On Toronto: “I think it’s the most insane thing in the world that there’s not two teams in Toronto. It’s crazy.”
Several agents described the current NHL schedule as a “grind.” Adding more games is unpopular.
More teams having a shot at the postseason, though? There might be something there.
“I would probably be in favor of some play-in games,” one agent said. “I think it’s worked well in baseball and it’s been good for TV and would be good overall for HRR.”
Another added, “It’s so hard to make the playoffs, so if we can take the teams that were like one regulation loss away from making it, I think that’d be fun.”
Still, there were several who emphasized that the schedule is too long as it is.
“There’s too many games. If anything, I would reduce the number of games,” one of eight agents who responded “no” said.
A main target for reducing the workload: the preseason exhibition schedule.
“The exhibition situation has been so poorly run,” an agent said. “It’s so imbalanced. There’s really no rhyme or reason to it. Most teams, at most, really have one spot you can fight for in training camp if everybody’s healthy.”
One agent said the season needs to start and end earlier.
“Yes (to adding regular season games), but no more than two games and as long as the exhibition season gets cut down to balance it out. And the Stanley Cup needs to be awarded no later than the first week in June. Why not start the season Sept. 15?”
Seventeen GMs-in-waiting garnered votes as the one to watch — including two agents who selected themselves.
Penguins assistant GM Jason Spezza received the most mentions, though.
“From the very beginning, even when he was in his last year as a player, he had a thirst for knowing everything he could learn,” one agent said. “He’s very, very thorough in everything he does and is learning every part of the organization. Kyle (Dubas) gave him access to everything in Toronto and now Pittsburgh. Jason approached it like he did everything else – just 100 percent.”
Another member of Dubas’s front office was praised by one agent: Vukie Mpofu, the Penguins’ director of hockey operations and legal affairs.
“One of the sharpest, committed and genuinely good young people. He’s a star,” the agent said.
In the two-vote club, Leafs AGM Brandon Pridham and Panthers AGM Brett Peterson stood out.
“I think he does a lot of work and doesn’t get a lot of credit,” an agent said of Pridham. “He’s quiet, but I think he’s done yeoman’s work there for a lot of years and doesn’t necessarily get on people’s radar.”
Another said of Peterson: “Former agent. He’s very smooth, very smart. He’s in tight with USA Hockey, well schooled by Billy Zito. He’s an impressive guy.”
Speaking of former agents, Canucks AGM Émilie Castonguay — the first Canadian woman ever certified as an agent — received a vote.
“She’s a strong presence. Smart and has the right edge,” an agent said. “Not only does she have a strong legal education, she has navigated the game from all sides, player-agenting and managing. She’s a skilled communicator and strategic thinker.”
(Illustration: Will Tullos / The Athletic)
(Photos: Patrick Smith, Jeff Vinnick, Richard T. Gagnon, Bruce Bennett, Chris Tanouye / Getty Images)

Culture
Book Review: ‘Hunger Like a Thirst,’ by Besha Rodell

HUNGER LIKE A THIRST: From Food Stamps to Fine Dining, a Restaurant Critic Finds Her Place at the Table, by Besha Rodell
Consider the food critic’s memoir. An author inevitably faces the threat of proportional imbalance: a glut of one (the tantalizing range of delicacies eaten) and want of the other (the nonprofessional life lived). And in this age of publicly documenting one’s every bite, it’s easier than ever to forget that to simply have dined, no matter how extravagantly, is not enough to make one interesting, or a story worth telling.
Fortunately, the life of Beshaleba River Puffin Rodell has been as unusual as her name. In fact, as she relays in the author’s note that opens “Hunger Like a Thirst,” a high school boyfriend believed she’d “made up her entire life story,” starting with her elaborate moniker.
Born in Australia on a farm called Narnia, she is the daughter of hippies. Her father, “a man of many lives and vocations,” was in his religious scholar phase, whence Beshaleba, an amalgamation of two Bible names, cometh.
Rodell’s mother returned to her native United States, with her children and new husband, when Besha was 14. Within the first 20-plus years of her life, she had bounced back and forth repeatedly between the two continents and, within the U.S., between multiple states. “‘I’m not from here’ is at the core of who I am,” she writes.
It’s also at the core of her work as a restaurant critic, and what, she convincingly argues, distinguishes her writing from that of many contemporaries. She has the distanced perspective of a foreigner, but also lacks the privilege of her counterparts, who are often male and frequently moneyed. “For better or for worse, this is the life that I have,” she writes. “The one in which a lady who can’t pay her utility bills can nonetheless go eat a big steak and drink martinis.” This, she believes, is her advantage: “Dining out was never something I took for granted.”
It started back in Narnia on the ninth birthday of her childhood best friend, who invited Rodell to tag along at a celebratory dinner at the town’s fanciest restaurant. Rodell was struck, not by the food, but by “the mesmerizing, intense luxury of it all.” From then on, despite or perhaps because of the financial stress that remains a constant in her life, she became committed to chasing that particular brand of enchantment, “the specific opulence of a very good restaurant. I never connected this longing to the goal of attaining wealth; in fact, it was the pantomiming that appealed.”
To become a writer who gets poorly compensated to dine at those very good restaurants required working multiple jobs, including, in her early days, at restaurants, while simultaneously taking on unpaid labor as an intern and attending classes.
Things didn’t get much easier once Rodell became a full-time critic and she achieved the milestones associated with industry success. She took over for Atlanta’s most-read restaurant reviewer, then for the Pulitzer-winning Jonathan Gold at L.A. Weekly. She was nominated for multiple James Beard Awards and won one for an article on the legacy of the 40-ounce bottle of malt liquor.
After moving back to Australia with her husband and son, she was hired to review restaurants for The New York Times’s Australia bureau, before becoming the global dining critic for both Food & Wine and Travel & Leisure. Juxtaposed against the jet-setting and meals taken at the world’s most rarefied restaurants is her “real” life, the one where she can barely make rent or afford groceries.
It turns out her outsider status has also left her well positioned to excavate the history of restaurant criticism and the role of those who have practiced it. She relays this with remarkable clarity and explains how it’s shaped her own work. (To illustrate how she’s put her own philosophy into practice, she includes examples of her writing.) It’s this analysis that renders Rodell’s book an essential read for anyone who’s interested in cultural criticism.
Packing all of the above into one book is a tall order, and if Rodell’s has a flaw, it’s in its structure. The moving parts can seem disjointed and, although the intention behind the structure is a meaningful one, the execution feels forced.
As she explains in her epilogue, she used the table of contents from Anthony Bourdain’s “Kitchen Confidential” as inspiration for her own. Titled “Tony,” the section is dedicated to him. But, however genuine the sentiment, to end on a man whose shadow looms so large detracts from her own story. (If anything, Rodell’s approach feels more aligned with the work of the Gen X feminist Liz Phair, whose lyric the book’s title borrows.)
It certainly shouldn’t deter anyone from reading it. Rodell’s memoir is a singular accomplishment. And if this publication were to hire her as a dining critic in New York, there would be no complaints from this reader.
HUNGER LIKE A THIRST: From Food Stamps to Fine Dining, a Restaurant Critic Finds Her Place at the Table | By Besha Rodell | Celadon | 272 pp. | $28.99
Culture
Book Review: ‘Original Sin,’ by Jake Tapper and Alex Thompson

ORIGINAL SIN: President Biden’s Decline, Its Cover-Up, and His Disastrous Choice to Run Again, by Jake Tapper and Alex Thompson
In Christian theology, original sin begins with Adam and Eve eating the forbidden fruit from the tree of knowledge. But Jake Tapper and Alex Thompson’s “Original Sin” chronicles a different fall from grace. The cover image is a black-and-white portrait of Joe Biden with a pair of hands clamped over his eyes. The biblical story is about the danger of innocent curiosity; the story in this new book is about the danger of willful ignorance.
“The original sin of Election 2024 was Biden’s decision to run for re-election — followed by aggressive efforts to hide his cognitive diminishment,” Tapper and Thompson write. On the evening of June 27, 2024, Democratic voters watched the first presidential debate in amazement and horror: A red-faced Donald Trump let loose a barrage of audacious whoppers while Biden, slack-jawed and pale, struggled to string together intelligible rebuttals.
Trump’s debate performance was of a piece with his rallies, a jumble of nonsensical digressions and wild claims. But for many Americans, the extent of Biden’s frailty came as a shock. Most of the president’s appearances had, by then, become tightly controlled affairs. For at least a year and a half, Biden’s aides had been scrambling to accommodate an octogenarian president who was becoming increasingly exhausted and confused. According to “Original Sin,” which makes pointed use of the word “cover-up” in the subtitle, alarmed donors and pols who sought the lowdown on Biden’s cognitive state were kept in the dark. Others had daily evidence of Biden’s decline but didn’t want to believe it.
Tapper is an anchor for CNN (and also served as a moderator for the presidential debate); Thompson is a national political correspondent for Axios. In an authors’ note, they explain that they interviewed approximately 200 people, including high-level insiders, “some of whom may never acknowledge speaking to us but all of whom know the truth within these pages.”
The result is a damning, step-by-step account of how the people closest to a stubborn, aging president enabled his quixotic resolve to run for a second term. The authors trace the deluge of trouble that flowed from Biden’s original sin: the sidelining of Vice President Kamala Harris; the attacks on journalists (like Thompson) who deigned to report on worries about Biden’s apparent fatigue and mental state; an American public lacking clear communication from the president and left to twist in the wind. “It was an abomination,” one source told the authors. “He stole an election from the Democratic Party; he stole it from the American people.”
This blistering charge is attributed to “a prominent Democratic strategist” who also “publicly defended Biden.” In “Original Sin,” the reasons given for saying nice things in public about the president are legion. Some Democrats, especially those who didn’t see the president that often, relied on his surrogates for reassurance about his condition (“He’s fine, he’s fine, he’s fine”); others were wary of giving ammunition to the Trump campaign, warning that he was an existential threat to the country. Tapper and Thompson are scornful of such rationales: “For those who tried to justify the behavior described here because of the threat of a second Trump term, those fears should have shocked them into reality, not away from it.”
Biden announced that he would be running for re-election in April 2023; he had turned 80 the previous November and was already the oldest president in history. Over his long life, he had been through a lot: the death of his wife and daughter in a car accident in 1972; two aneurysm surgeries in 1988; the death of his son Beau in 2015; the seemingly endless trouble kicked up by his son Hunter, a recovering addict whose legal troubles included being under investigation by the Justice Department.
Yet Biden always bounced back. The fact that he defied the naysayers and beat the odds to win the 2020 election was, for him and his close circle of family and advisers, a sign that he was special — and persistently underestimated. They maintained “a near-religious faith in Biden’s ability to rise again,” the authors write. “And as with any theology, skepticism was forbidden.”
In 2019, when Biden announced a presidential run, he was 76. It was still a time when “Good Biden was far more present than Old Biden.” By 2023, the authors suggest, that ratio had reversed. Some of his decline was hard to distinguish from what they call “the Bidenness,” which included his longtime reputation for gaffes, meandering stories and a habit of forgetting staffers’ names.
But people who didn’t see Biden on a daily basis were increasingly taken aback when they finally laid eyes on him. They would remark on how his once booming voice had become a whisper, how his confident stride had become a shuffle. An aghast congressman recalls being reminded of his father, who had Alzheimer’s; another thought of his father, too, who died of Parkinson’s.
The people closest to Biden landed on some techniques to handle (or disguise) what was happening: restricting urgent business to the hours between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.; instructing his writers to keep his speeches brief so that he didn’t have to spend too much time on his feet; having him use the short stairs to Air Force One. When making videos, his aides sometimes filmed “in slow motion to blur the reality of how slowly he actually walked.” By late 2023, his staff was pushing as much of his schedule as they could to midday.
When White House aides weren’t practicing fastidious stage management, they seemed to be sticking their heads in the sand. According to a forthcoming book by Josh Dawsey, Tyler Pager and Isaac Arnsdorf, Biden’s aides decided against his taking a cognitive test in early 2024. Tapper and Thompson quote a physician who served as a consultant to the White House Medical Unit for the last four administrations and expressed his dismay at the idea of withholding such information: “If there’s no diagnosis, there’s nothing to disclose.”
Just how much of this rigmarole was desperate rationalization versus deliberate scheming is never entirely clear. Tapper and Thompson identify two main groups that closed ranks around Biden: his family and a group of close aides known internally as “the Politburo” that included his longtime strategist Mike Donilon and his counselor Steve Ricchetti. The family encouraged Biden’s view of himself as a historic figure. The Politburo was too politically hard-nosed for that. Instead, its members pointed to Biden’s record in office and the competent people around him. The napping, the whispering, the shuffling — all that stuff had merely to do with the “performative” parts of the job.
Tapper and Thompson vehemently disagree. They offer a gracious portrait of Robert Hur, the special counsel who investigated Biden’s handling of classified materials and in his February 2024 report famously described the president as a “sympathetic, well-meaning, elderly man with a poor memory.” Biden and his team were incensed and tried “to slime Hur as an unprofessional right-wing hack,” but the authors defend his notorious line. They emphasize that it is incumbent upon a special counsel to spell out how the subject of an investigation would probably appear to a jury — and that what Hur wrote about Biden was true.
Of course, in an election like 2024, when the differences between the candidates are so stark and the stakes are so high, nearly every scrap of information gets viewed through the lens of “Will it help my team win?” Even competently administered policy could not compensate for a woeful inability to communicate with the American people. In a democracy, this is a tragedy — especially if you believe, as Biden did, that a second Trump term would put the very existence of that democracy in peril.
Earlier this month, in what looks like an attempt to get ahead of the book’s publication, Biden went on “The View” to say that he accepts some responsibility for Trump’s victory: “I was in charge.” But he was dismissive about reports of any cognitive decline. In “Original Sin,” Tapper and Thompson describe him waking up the morning after the 2024 election thinking that if only he had stayed in the race, he would have won. “That’s what the polls suggested, he would say again and again,” the authors write. There was just one problem with his reasoning: “His pollsters told us that no such polls existed.”
ORIGINAL SIN: President Biden’s Decline, Its Cover-Up, and His Disastrous Choice to Run Again | By Jake Tapper and Alex Thompson | Penguin Press | 332 pp. | $32
Culture
Book Review: ‘Death Is Our Business,’ by John Lechner; ‘Putin’s Sledgehammer,’ by Candace Rondeaux

Western complacency, meanwhile, stoked Russian imperial ambition. Though rich in resources, Rondeaux notes, Russia still relies on the rest of the world to fuel its war machine. Wagner’s operations in Africa burgeoned around the same time as their Syrian operation. In 2016, the French president François Hollande “semi-jokingly” suggested that the Central African Republic’s president go to the Russians for help putting down rebel groups. “We actually used Hollande’s statement,” Dmitri Syty, one of the brains behind Wagner’s operation there, tells Lechner.
“Death Is Our Business” provides powerful descriptions of the lives that were upended by the mercenary deployments. Wagner is accused of massacring hundreds of civilians in Mali in 2022, and of carrying out mass killings alongside local militias in the Central African Republic. “Their behavior mirrored the armed groups they ousted,” Lechner writes. As a Central African civil society activist whispers to Lechner, “Russia is no different” from the sub-Saharan country’s former colonial power, France.
Both books are particularly interesting when they turn their focus toward Europe and the United States. In Rondeaux’s words, the trans-Atlantic alliance does not “have a game plan for countering Russia’s growing influence across Africa.” Lechner, who was detained while reporting his book by officials from Mali’s pro-Russian government, is even more critical. He notes that, whatever Wagner produced profit-wise, the sum would have “paled in comparison to the $1 billion the E.U. paid Russia each month for oil and gas.”
And, while Wagner was an effective boogeyman, mercenaries of all stripes have proliferated across the map of this century’s conflicts, from the Democratic Republic of Congo to Yemen. “The West was happy to leverage Wagner as shorthand for all the evils of a war economy,” Lechner writes. “But the reality is that the world is filled with Prigozhins.”
Lechner is right. When Wagner fell, others rose in its stead, although they were kept on a tighter leash by Russian military intelligence. In Ukraine, prisoners are still being used in combat and Russia maintains a tight lid on its casualty figures. Even if the war in Ukraine ends soon, as President Trump has promised, Moscow’s mercenaries will still be at work dividing their African cake. Prigozhin may be dead, but his hammer is still a tool: It doesn’t matter if he’s around to swing it or not.
DEATH IS OUR BUSINESS: Russian Mercenaries and the New Era of Private Warfare | By John Lechner | Bloomsbury | 261 pp. | $29.99
PUTIN’S SLEDGEHAMMER: The Wagner Group and Russia’s Collapse Into Mercenary Chaos | By Candace Rondeaux | PublicAffairs | 442 pp. | $32
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