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Aspen for Cheapskates

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Aspen for Cheapskates

Over an $8.50 pint of craft beer from Aspen Brewing Company, which is comparable to what I pay at home in Chicago, I realized that Aspen, Colo., is not expensive by big-city standards. It’s expensive by small-town standards.

The Economic Research Institute, which compiles financial data for public and private organizations, pegs the cost of living in Aspen at 51 percent higher than the average in the United States, a little less than a city like Seattle.

As a professionally penny-pinching traveler, I try to avoid paying urban prices in the mountains. In the summer in Aspen, apart from my weakness for microbrews, I didn’t have to.

For those who don’t care to shop for Prada or Gucci clothing, or don’t maintain elaborate second mansions here, Aspen’s essential appeal lies in the outdoors — mountains, wildlife, rivers — which, compared with winter, when you might need to rent ski equipment or pay for mountain access, is a steal. Hiking and city bus transportation are free. Cycling, if you can avoid expensive rentals, is a bargain. Parks beckon picnickers, and free cultural attractions abound.

Over the course of three days in Aspen, I spent about $600 before airfare, with most of that on lodging. Here’s how I cheaped out in a resort town synonymous with wealth.

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An annual winter visitor to Aspen, I touched down in July, astonished at how dramatic the mountains looked without fluffy layers of snow to soften their jagged edges.

From the Aspen/Pitkin County Airport, nearly four miles from downtown, the Roaring Fork Transportation Authority buses are free to and around town, saving more than $20 on a taxi and delivering the moral satisfaction of speeding by bumper-to-bumper traffic in a bus-only lane.

Within 10 minutes, I reached town and walked a few blocks to my Main Street accommodations at the Tyrolean Lodge, a relatively affordable, family-run hotel decorated in vintage ski gear and backcountry photos that the local Aspen Times once called “a dying breed in Aspen.”

“There used to be small lodges all over Aspen owned by families and not corporations,” said Pierre Wille, the general manager, whose family has owned the Tyrolean since 1970.

Fifteen of its 16 rooms accommodate five people in three beds, and all have efficiency kitchens with free coffee to help guests economize on meals. I paid $267 a night including taxes and fees, which, for budget travelers, is expensive for one person, but a find for families and groups, potentially knocking the price down to $53 a night per person. By comparison, rates at the luxury Hotel Jerome were running $1,275 a night. Even the more modest Limelight Hotel Aspen was charging over $700 a night.

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“We’re interested in keeping Aspen affordable,” Mr. Wille said. “A ski bum can still sort of make it.”

A summer bum, I was relieved to find the lodge offered free bikes. The fleet of eight hand-me-downs solidly beat the offerings at local shops, which mostly rent only electric bikes, charging $130 a day for e-bike rentals.

I pedaled my single-speed cruiser to the nearby Rio Grande Trail, which runs down the valley following the Roaring Fork River from Aspen 42 miles to Glenwood Springs. I breezed as far as Woody Creek, about eight miles, before turning around for the uphill return, consoling myself with extended wildflower-viewing time as other cyclists whizzed past on e-bikes.

As skiing is to winter, hiking is to summer. Several trails take off from town, and anyone who hikes up Aspen Mountain can take the gondola back down free.

Among the stars of the Elk Mountains that surround Aspen are the “14ers,” or 14,000-foot-plus peaks, including Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak, collectively known as the Maroon Bells, about 10 miles west of town.

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One look at the majestic pyramidal pair reflected in Maroon Lake at the base of the Maroon Bells Scenic Area explains why more than 300,000 visitors come here each year. To quell traffic between May and October, RFTA runs a bus ($16 by reservation) to the area from Aspen Highlands, one of the four ski mountains that make up Aspen Snowmass (a free RFTA bus travels between town and Aspen Highlands).

I booked the day’s first lightly trafficked shuttle at 7 a.m. on a chilly, bright morning and hit the trail to Crater Lake, 3.6 miles round-trip, for closer mountain views. Stands of aspen gave way to alpine meadows blooming with wild columbine and aspen sunflowers. The trail bisected one rock pile occupied by a family of pika, pudgy rabbit relatives who vocalized like squeaky toys.

By 9 a.m., as I descended back to the bus base, a steady stream of hikers were making their way up the trail with cellphone cameras pointed lakeside at a family of moose.

While the outdoors are free, the indoors — namely restaurants and bars — require strategy.

“With happy hours, you’re golden,” advised my famously thrifty brother-in-law Chuck Leavitt, who lives near Aspen, noting the happy-hour deals that many restaurants offer during off-peak hours.

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There are few locations better than Ajax Tavern, with a sprawling outdoor patio at the foot of Aspen Mountain. Its happy-hour deals slash margaritas from a nosebleed $19 to a reasonable $8. But the signature truffle fries, undiscounted, cost $21, and food specials like arancini at $15 weren’t enough for dinner.

Besides limited menus, the problem with happy hours is adjusting to dining between the early-bird hours of 3 and 6 p.m., which I managed the next day at Mezzaluna. A veggie pizza ($14) from its happy-hour menu provided ample leftovers for breakfast.

Lunches, thankfully, were easier. A sizable slice of pepperoni pizza at New York Pizza set me back $6.25. Red Fox Frozen Yogurt offers self-serve by the ounce (75 cents) so I limited myself to a $2 cup. My friend Tess Weaver, a writer who lives in nearby Basalt, suggested we meet at the Big Wrap for lunch, where her chicken pesto and my chicken Caesar — both as generous as the business name implies — cost $11 each.

“Most of my dates with friends are hikes, bike rides or river activities,” she said, as we sat at a public table on shady Cooper Avenue and discussed spots to stage B.Y.O. après-sport picnics. “You meet people to do free things.”

One considerable trickle-down benefit to the largess for which Aspen is famed is that most of its major cultural attractions are free, including the Aspen Art Museum. A few blocks from the ski hill, I toured exhibitions by the Iranian artist Nairy Baghramian and paintings by the German artist Florian Krewer before reaching the tranquil Rooftop Café, where a pick-me-up cappuccino cost $4.

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Aspen’s reputation as a cultural destination began after the Chicago businessman Walter Paepcke visited in the 1940s and envisioned the former mining town as a gathering place for artists, thinkers and leaders, an inspiration that would spawn the nonprofit Aspen Institute and the Aspen Music Festival and School. In 1946, he lured the artist and designer Herbert Bayer, who had studied and taught at the influential Bauhaus in Germany, to Aspen, where Bayer would design everything from Modernist homes to the Aspen leaf logo originally used by the local ski company.

Bayer’s prolific work in textiles, book graphics and more is the subject of the year-old Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies (free). A six-minute bike ride from downtown, the museum borders the 40-acre Aspen Institute grounds, which Bayer also designed. After an hour in the museum, I spent another outside with a free online guide from the Aspen Meadows resort, seeking out marble sculptures, earthworks and a topographic mural by the artist.

Next door, in a giant tent, caterers were preparing for a concert from the Aspen Music Festival, an eight-week summer series devoted to classical music and opera (through Aug. 20). Headlining performances by the opera singer Renée Fleming and other stars start at $75, but the calendar is loaded with free events, often performed by some of the school’s more than 400 students (alumni include the violinist Joshua Bell and the composer Philip Glass).

That evening, I took a bus to the school’s leafy campus about two miles out of town to attend a String Showcase, a free one-hour concert by violin and cello students who performed a range of music, from the French Romantic composer Ernest Chausson to the contemporary Turkish composer Fazil Say.

“The free events are important parts of what we do,” said Laura E. Smith, the festival’s marketing and communications vice president, estimating that roughly 70 percent of its programming is free. “More than a ticket sale, it’s about heart and humans and enriching the world.”

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In summer, when mountain roads are free of snow, Aspen is a great base for day trips in the region, including exploring the Continental Divide on 12,095-foot Independence Pass. Extremely fit bicyclists make the roughly 20-mile ascent southeast of Aspen — gaining over 4,000 feet in elevation — but far more drive the twisting, narrow route on a seasonal stretch of Highway 82 that follows the cascading Roaring Fork River.

I hitched a ride with my sister and brother-in-law, who live in nearby Carbondale. Slushy ice still covered a pond ringed in wildflowers on the pass. Working our way back down the road, we parked below the pass to hike to Linkins Lake, a steep 1.2-mile round-trip in the Hunter-Fryingpan Wilderness for a lakeside picnic, and later wandered around the mining ghost town of Independence. At the Grottos, we waded into the icy river at a tumbling section known as the Cascades. We broke out a D.I.Y. happy hour at Devil’s Punchbowl, entertained by jumpers from surrounding cliffs launching themselves into a river pool.

To replicate this day without freeloading, I would need to rent a car (Kayak lists them from $48 a day), pack a picnic (Grateful Deli’s ham, turkey, Cheddar and Swiss, $10.50) and stock up on beer (25-ounce cans of Bud Light were recently priced at two for $6 at City Market grocery in Aspen), a roughly $65 outlay, not including gas. Rocky Mountain high: priceless.

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to get expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Dreaming up a future getaway or just armchair traveling? Check out our 52 Places to Go in 2023.

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Cookies, Cocktails and Mushrooms on the Menu as Justices Hear Bank Fraud Case

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Cookies, Cocktails and Mushrooms on the Menu as Justices Hear Bank Fraud Case

In a lively Supreme Court argument on Tuesday that included references to cookies, cocktails and toxic mushrooms, the justices tried to find the line between misleading statements and outright lies in the case of a Chicago politician convicted of making false statements to bank regulators.

The case concerned Patrick Daley Thompson, a former Chicago alderman who is the grandson of one former mayor, Richard J. Daley, and the nephew of another, Richard M. Daley. He conceded that he had misled the regulators but said his statements fell short of the outright falsehoods he said were required to make them criminal.

The justices peppered the lawyers with colorful questions that tried to tease out the difference between false and misleading statements.

Chief Justice John G. Roberts Jr. asked whether a motorist pulled over on suspicion of driving while impaired said something false by stating that he had had one cocktail while omitting that he had also drunk four glasses of wine.

Caroline A. Flynn, a lawyer for the federal government, said that a jury could find the statement to be false because “the officer was asking for a complete account of how much the person had had to drink.”

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Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson asked about a child who admitted to eating three cookies when she had consumed 10.

Ms. Flynn said context mattered.

“If the mom had said, ‘Did you eat all the cookies,’ or ‘how many cookies did you eat,’ and the child says, ‘I ate three cookies’ when she ate 10, that’s a false statement,” Ms. Flynn said. “But, if the mom says, ‘Did you eat any cookies,’ and the child says three, that’s not an understatement in response to a specific numerical inquiry.”

Justice Sonia Sotomayor asked whether it was false to label toxic mushrooms as “a hundred percent natural.” Ms. Flynn did not give a direct response.

The case before the court, Thompson v. United States, No. 23-1095, started when Mr. Thompson took out three loans from Washington Federal Bank for Savings between 2011 and 2014. He used the first, for $110,000, to finance a law firm. He used the next loan, for $20,000, to pay a tax bill. He used the third, for $89,000, to repay a debt to another bank.

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He made a single payment on the loans, for $390 in 2012. The bank, which did not press him for further payments, went under in 2017.

When the Federal Deposit Insurance Corporation and a loan servicer it had hired sought repayment of the loans plus interest, amounting to about $270,000, Mr. Thompson told them he had borrowed $110,000, which was true in a narrow sense but incomplete.

After negotiations, Mr. Thompson in 2018 paid back the principal but not the interest. More than two years later, federal prosecutors charged him with violating a law making it a crime to give “any false statement or report” to influence the F.D.I.C.

He was convicted and ordered to repay the interest, amounting to about $50,000. He served four months in prison.

Chris C. Gair, a lawyer for Mr. Thompson, said his client’s statements were accurate in context, an assertion that met with skepticism. Justice Elena Kagan noted that the jury had found the statements were false and that a ruling in Mr. Thompson’s favor would require a court to rule that no reasonable juror could have come to that conclusion.

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Justices Neil M. Gorsuch and Brett M. Kavanaugh said that issue was not before the court, which had agreed to decide the legal question of whether the federal law, as a general matter, covered misleading statements. Lower courts, they said, could decide whether Mr. Thompson had been properly convicted.

Justice Samuel A. Alito Jr. asked for an example of a misleading statement that was not false. Mr. Gair, who was presenting his first Supreme Court argument, responded by talking about himself.

“If I go back and change my website and say ‘40 years of litigation experience’ and then in bold caps say ‘Supreme Court advocate,’” he said, “that would be, after today, a true statement. It would be misleading to anybody who was thinking about whether to hire me.”

Justice Alito said such a statement was, at most, mildly misleading. But Justice Kagan was impressed.

“Well, it is, though, the humblest answer I’ve ever heard from the Supreme Court podium,” she said, to laughter. “So good show on that one.”

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SEC probes B. Riley loan to founder, deals with franchise group

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SEC probes B. Riley loan to founder, deals with franchise group

B. Riley Financial Inc. received more demands for information from federal regulators about its dealings with now-bankrupt Franchise Group as well as a personal loan for Chairman and co-founder Bryant Riley.

The Los Angeles-based investment firm and Riley each received additional subpoenas in November from the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission seeking documents and information about Franchise Group, or FRG, the retail company that was once one of its biggest investments before its collapse last year, according to a long-delayed quarterly filing. The agency also wants to know more about Riley’s pledge of B. Riley shares as collateral for a personal loan, the filing shows.

B. Riley previously received SEC subpoenas in July for information about its dealings with ex-FRG chief executive Brian Kahn, part of a long-running probe that has rocked B. Riley and helped push its shares to their lowest in more than a decade. Bryant Riley, who founded the company in 1997 and built it into one of the biggest U.S. investment firms beyond Wall Street, has been forced to sell assets and raise cash to ease creditors’ concerns.

The firm and Riley “are responding to the subpoenas and are fully cooperating with the SEC,” according to the filing. The company said the subpoenas don’t mean the SEC has determined any violations of law have occurred.

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Shares in B. Riley jumped more than 25% in New York trading after the company’s overdue quarterly filing gave investors their first formal look at the firm’s performance in more than half a year. The data included a net loss of more than $435 million for the three months ended June 30. The shares through Monday had plunged more than 80% in the past 12 months, trading for less than $4 each.

B. Riley and Kahn — a longstanding client and friend of Riley’s — teamed up in 2023 to take FRG private in a $2.8-billion deal. The transaction soon came under pressure when Kahn was tagged as an unindicted co-conspirator by authorities in the collapse of an unrelated hedge fund called Prophecy Asset Management, which led to a fraud conviction for one of the fund’s executives.

Kahn has said he didn’t do anything wrong, that he wasn’t aware of any fraud at Prophecy and that he was among those who lost money in the collapse. But federal investigations into his role have spilled over into his dealings with B. Riley and its chairman, who have said internal probes found they “had no involvement with, or knowledge of, any alleged misconduct concerning Mr. Kahn or any of his affiliates.”

FRG filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in November, a move that led to hundreds of millions of dollars of losses for B. Riley. The collapse made Riley “personally sick,” he said at the time.

One of the biggest financial problems to arise from the FRG deal was a loan that B. Riley made to Kahn for about $200 million, which was secured against FRG shares. With that company’s collapse into bankruptcy in November wiping out equity holders, the value of the remaining collateral for this debt has now dwindled to only about $2 million, the filing shows.

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Griffin writes for Bloomberg.

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Starbucks Reverses Its Open-Door Policy for Bathroom Use and Lounging

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Starbucks Reverses Its Open-Door Policy for Bathroom Use and Lounging

Starbucks will require people visiting its coffee shops to buy something in order to stay or to use its bathrooms, the company announced in a letter sent to store managers on Monday.

The new policy, outlined in a Code of Conduct, will be enacted later this month and applies to the company’s cafes, patios and bathrooms.

“Implementing a Coffeehouse Code of Conduct is something most retailers already have and is a practical step that helps us prioritize our paying customers who want to sit and enjoy our cafes or need to use the restroom during their visit,” Jaci Anderson, a Starbucks spokeswoman, said in an emailed statement.

Ms. Anderson said that by outlining expectations for customers the company “can create a better environment for everyone.”

The Code of Conduct will be displayed in every store and prohibit behaviors including discrimination, harassment, smoking and panhandling.

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People who violate the rules will be asked to leave the store, and employees may call law enforcement, the policy says.

Before implementation of the new policy begins on Jan. 27, store managers will be given 40 hours to prepare stores and workers, according to the company. There will also be training sessions for staff.

This training time will be used to prepare for other new practices, too, including asking customers if they want their drink to stay or to go and offering unlimited free refills of hot or iced coffee to customers who order a drink to stay.

The changes are part of an attempt by the company to prioritize customers and make the stores more inviting, Sara Trilling, the president of Starbucks North America, said in a letter to store managers.

“We know from customers that access to comfortable seating and a clean, safe environment is critical to the Starbucks experience they love,” she wrote. “We’ve also heard from you, our partners, that there is a need to reset expectations for how our spaces should be used, and who uses them.”

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The changes come as the company responds to declining sales, falling stock prices and grumbling from activist investors. In August, the company appointed a new chief executive, Brian Niccol.

Mr. Niccol outlined changes the company needed to make in a video in October. “We will simplify our overly complex menu, fix our pricing architecture and ensure that every customer feels Starbucks is worth it every single time they visit,” he said.

The new purchase requirement reverses a policy Starbucks instituted in 2018 that said people could use its cafes and bathrooms even if they had not bought something.

The earlier policy was introduced a month after two Black men were arrested in a Philadelphia Starbucks while waiting to meet another man for a business meeting.

Officials said that the men had asked to use the bathroom, but that an employee had refused the request because they had not purchased anything. An employee then called the police, and part of the ensuing encounter was recorded on video and viewed by millions of people online, prompting boycotts and protests.

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In 2022, Howard Schultz, the Starbucks chief executive at the time, said that the company was reconsidering the open-bathroom policy.

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