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Hawaii’s ‘bone collector’ caterpillar wears dead insect parts | Honolulu Star-Advertiser

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Hawaii’s ‘bone collector’ caterpillar wears dead insect parts | Honolulu Star-Advertiser


RUBINOFF LAB, ENTOMOLOGY SECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII, MANOA/HANDOUT VIA REUTERS
                                The habitat of a newly identified carnivorous caterpillar species nicknamed the “bone collector”, which camouflages itself by wearing body parts of its prey, in the Waianae mountain range, is seen in this handout picture released by the University of Hawaii-Manoa, on April 24.

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RUBINOFF LAB, ENTOMOLOGY SECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII, MANOA/HANDOUT VIA REUTERS

The habitat of a newly identified carnivorous caterpillar species nicknamed the “bone collector”, which camouflages itself by wearing body parts of its prey, in the Waianae mountain range, is seen in this handout picture released by the University of Hawaii-Manoa, on April 24.

RUBINOFF LAB, ENTOMOLOGY SECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII, MANOA/HANDOUT VIA REUTERS
                                Six specimens of a newly identified carnivorous caterpillar species nicknamed the “bone collector,” which camouflages itself by wearing body parts of its prey, are seen in this handout image released by the University of Hawaii-Manoa, on April 24.

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RUBINOFF LAB, ENTOMOLOGY SECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII, MANOA/HANDOUT VIA REUTERS

Six specimens of a newly identified carnivorous caterpillar species nicknamed the “bone collector,” which camouflages itself by wearing body parts of its prey, are seen in this handout image released by the University of Hawaii-Manoa, on April 24.

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RUBINOFF LAB, ENTOMOLOGY SECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII, MANOA/HANDOUT VIA REUTERS
                                The habitat of a newly identified carnivorous caterpillar species nicknamed the “bone collector”, which camouflages itself by wearing body parts of its prey, in the Waianae mountain range, is seen in this handout picture released by the University of Hawaii-Manoa, on April 24.
RUBINOFF LAB, ENTOMOLOGY SECTION, UNIVERSITY OF HAWAII, MANOA/HANDOUT VIA REUTERS
                                Six specimens of a newly identified carnivorous caterpillar species nicknamed the “bone collector,” which camouflages itself by wearing body parts of its prey, are seen in this handout image released by the University of Hawaii-Manoa, on April 24.
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In a remote and lushly forested area of a single mountain range on Oahu, scientists have discovered a carnivorous caterpillar species that makes a living in such a macabre way that they have nicknamed it the “bone collector.”

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The caterpillar prowls spider webs to scavenge trapped and helpless victims such as ants, beetles, weevils and flies, the researchers said. The crafty caterpillar camouflages itself from the spider, which would happily eat it, by hiding its body inside a case it fashions from its own silk and adorns it with inedible body parts that it collected from the dead insects.

Through metamorphosis, this caterpillar eventually turns into its adult form, a moth with a brown and white coloration. Caterpillars are the moth’s larval stage, with a segmented and worm-like body.

This is the world’s only known caterpillar to live with and benefit from spiders, according to Daniel Rubinoff, a professor of entomology at the University of Hawaii at Manoa and lead author of the study published this week in the journal Science.

Its grisly behavior would seem well suited for a crime novel. But it represents an example of the creative paths that our planet’s living organisms take to survive and thrive.

“They need to hide in a tapestry of bug parts to stay alive in the spider’s lair,” Rubinoff said.

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“I think it’s actually a hero,” Rubinoff said. “It truly lives ‘in the lion’s den,’ hiding out with a spider and using the spider’s web to provide it with food and probably shelter. The caterpillar will attack prey that can’t get away but is itself very slow and bumbling, trailing a large (silk) case behind it.”

The caterpillars consume weakened or dead insects they encounter in webs spun by spiders in tree hollows and rock crevices.

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“So it’s probably getting the leftovers after the spider has fed,” Rubinoff said.

They even resort to cannibalism, attacking other caterpillars of the same species.

The “Bone Collector” was the nickname of a serial killer in author Jeffery Deaver’s 1997 novel “The Bone Collector” and subsequent 1999 film of the same name.

So how did this caterpillar come to share this notorious nickname?

“I think the term is out there in the ether, and just fit with what these caterpillars are doing. It’s a bit tongue-in-cheek because arthropods don’t actually have bones,” Rubinoff said.

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Arthropods are a massive assemblage of invertebrates that include insects and spiders, as well as crustaceans.

The researchers said the “bone collector” inhabits a patch of mountain forest spanning just 5.8 square miles (15 square km) in the Waianae mountain range. Rubinoff said this caterpillar has a very precarious existence. Only 62 individuals have been observed in two decades of fieldwork.

“Invasive species are the main threat now. Even in protected areas, Hawaii is losing native species due to invasive species taking over habitats and turning them into biological deserts that look like forests but are largely unavailable to native species,” Rubinoff said.

The caterpillar, a previously unknown species, is a member of a group of moths called Hyposmocoma native to Hawaii that includes hundreds of species and arose about 12 million years ago. The researchers believe the “bone collector” comes from a lineage more than 5 million years old.

The overwhelming majority of caterpillars eat vegetation. Predatory caterpillars globally comprise less than 0.13% of the planet’s nearly 200,000 moth and butterfly species. And among those, the “bone collector” is the only one known to find food the way it does, making it unique among the world’s animals.

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“The more we can understand how the world around us works, the better off we will be,” Rubinoff said.




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Why Does This Island Keep Beating Hawaii? Because It Costs Half as Much.

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Why Does This Island Keep Beating Hawaii? Because It Costs Half as Much.


We live on Kauai. Hawaii is home. So when another island keeps getting compared to Hawaii, we can’t help but pay attention. Recently, the island of Madeira (aka the Hawaii of Europe) was ranked the No. 1 Trending Destination in the World for 2026 by TripAdvisor and received Europe’s Leading Island Destination 2025 from the World Travel Awards.

We also ventured to Madeira last year, walking levada trails, eating in neighborhood snack bars, driving roads that make parts of Kauai feel tame, and paying close attention to what travelers actually experience once they arrive and what the trip really costs on the ground.

This is not a theoretical comparison or a recycled press release. It is firsthand reporting about an island destination that keeps winning accolades. We wanted to know why. And we wanted to know how this tiny island off the coast of North Africa could handle this onslaught of tourism without becoming jaded.

After that, the rankings almost feel beside the point. Madeira keeps surfacing because travelers keep talking about it, returning to it, and recommending it to others. The buzz does not come from a single list or award. It comes from repetition. The same island keeps showing up in the same conversations, year after year, while Hawaii increasingly does not. That compelled us to visit and report back.

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What matters more than the trophies is that this has been going on for a decade. At some point, it stops being novel and starts demanding explanation. Not because Madeira is better than Hawaii in some abstract way, but because it seems to be achieving something Hawaii is struggling with right now.

Madeira Island
Overlooking Port of Funchal, Madeira Island.

What we kept noticing on Madeira was not a single standout moment or attraction. It was how little friction there was between planning to be there and actually being there. Getting around was straightforward. Parking was a challenge, but usually functional despite overtourism. Trails were very busy but not yet entirely chaotic. Restaurants felt very used, but adequately staffed, and not quite overwhelmed. Prices felt very reasonable everywhere, rather than punitive. None of it was flawless, but very little of it felt over-complicated.

The entire experience stood out because it is increasingly rare in today’s travel world, just in relation to Hawaii. Many destinations that succeed in attracting visitors eventually start pushing back, sometimes subtly and sometimes loudly. And we’ll be visiting more of those in 2026 to share more contrasts and learn about managing overtourism.

Madeira has not avoided pressure or notoriety. Flights are full. Roads are very crowded in places. Too many cruise ships arrive daily. Yet the tone has not shifted toward exhaustion or frustration, as Hawaii’s often does.

We heard that difference repeatedly, not just from officials or tourism campaigns, but from residents. Conversations were frank, sometimes critical of mass tourism, but rarely resentful. Tourism was treated as something Madeira must manage, not something to endure or eliminate. That distinction struck us more than any award ever could.

Cost plays into this in a way that Hawaii travelers will immediately recognize. Madeira is not just reasonable, it still feels fair. Visitors are not yet constantly reminded of what they are paying for or what they are not allowed to do. Fees exist, but they do not dominate the experience. The trip does not feel like a series of costly transactions layered on top of scenery.

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The balance is fragile, not unlike Hawaii. Madeira is already testing its limits, and there are signs of strain if you look closely enough, which we did. But for now, it has managed to hold onto something Hawaii has struggled to keep. It still feels welcoming without feeling exploited. Busy yet not completely overwhelmed. Popular without feeling burned out.

That is the comparison worth paying attention to. Not about winning another ranking. Or which island looks better in photos. But which place still feels demonstrably like it wants you there, even as more people keep coming.

And once you notice that difference on the ground, it becomes hard to forget it now back home in Hawaii.

Gondola on Madeira IslandGondola on Madeira Island
Gondola on Madeira Island

Hawaii wins the flight, then loses on many other points.

Here is the paradox that makes these rankings sting. A February 2026 round-trip flight from Los Angeles to Maui can be found for about $297. It is nonstop and takes roughly six hours. A flight from Los Angeles to Madeira costs about $486, requires two stops, and takes about 19 hours.

By every practical measure, Hawaii should win this comparison on access alone among visitors from North America. Hawaii is cheaper to reach and dramatically easier to get to and be in. That should matter a lot to travelers, and it still does.

But then you land on the runway overlooking the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, and much of that advantage evaporates fast.

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Where Hawaii loses is the moment you start spending money.

In Madeira, we routinely paid $15 to $20 per person for dinner at small, family-run restaurants. These are not compromised meals or stripped-down experiences. They are full plates, local wine included, served in places where residents actually eat alongside visitors.

In Hawaii, comparable dinners now start at $40 per person, if you are lucky, and climb quickly. For many visitors, $75 or more is no longer unusual once tax and tip are added. That gap is not subtle, and it repeats itself across nearly every category of daily spending. In Madeira, tipping is not expected, and tax is included in the price.

Accommodation tells the very same story. In Madeira, we stayed in a well-located apartment in Funchal with a full kitchen and water view for less than $100 per night. In Hawaii, similar accommodations routinely run $300 (again, if you are lucky) or more per night, often before resort fees, cleaning fees, 19% tax, and assorted add-ons are factored in.

Groceries in Madeira cost roughly one-third as much as in Hawaii. Rental cars, when needed, were also far less expensive and straightforward. Even simple conveniences like espresso or pastries never triggered the consternation that has become second nature for Hawaii visitors.

Funchal, MadeiraFunchal, Madeira
Urban art in Funchal, Madeira.

Access is important, too, and Madeira has not locked things down.

Hiking is one of Madeira’s biggest draws, and access remains relatively straightforward. Popular levada trails charge a modest €3 fee, and reservations are generally not required. Trails feel maintained, viewpoints are developed, and basic infrastructure like restrooms and parking is consistently present.

Hawaii faces similar pressures, but the response has increasingly been permits, timed entry, shuttle systems, and closures rather than improved infrastructure. Some of that is understandable given environmental strain and visitor volume. Madeira faces the same growing pressures, too. The difference is that Madeira has not made the experience feel adversarial or exhausting to plan, at least not yet.

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We have already covered these contrasts in depth, including how Madeira feels like Kauai decades ago, what the “Hawaii of Europe” label gets right and wrong, and the startling similarities and differences that only become obvious once you are on the ground. Those earlier pieces do the heavy lifting on the place and our experiences. This one is about what the numbers say now in light of the latest awards.

What Madeira gets right, and what it still lacks.

Madeira works because it does not price normal travelers out of daily life. It still feels possible to arrive, explore, eat well, and move around without feeling like every decision requires financial planning.

It also has limits. There are simply no sandy beaches to speak of. The weather is decidedly not as tropical as Hawaii. There is no Hawaiian culture or history to engage with. The travel day from the mainland U.S. is very long and inconvenient, and that matters more to Americans than it does to Europeans, who can reach the island in just a few hours.

Hawaii should win this comparison on experience, access, and emotional pull. The fact that it does not win the awards says far more about how Hawaii is handling tourism than about Madeira’s appeal.

The rankings are just a symptom, not the cause.

The world is not choosing Madeira because it is “better than Hawaii.” It is choosing Madeira because Hawaii has become so expensive that even a 19-hour journey to the Atlantic feels like a reasonable tradeoff.

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These rankings are not an insult to Hawaii. But they are a signal. Travelers see what Hawaii costs once they arrive, and they are voting with their attention, their wallets, and their willingness to return. The lists simply reflect that startling reality.

The harder question is whether Hawaii’s tourism industry is paying attention, or whether this is just another ranking that gets dismissed by them while the underlying visitor costs keep getting worse. Visitors have already noticed the extreme difference. And the world clearly has too.

Have you considered a trip to Madeira?

All Photos by Beat of Hawaii.

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Supreme Court takes up gun owners’ challenge to ‘Vampire Rules’

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Supreme Court takes up gun owners’ challenge to ‘Vampire Rules’



The Supreme Court is deciding whether Hawaii can require gun owners to get permission before carrying a concealed gun onto private property open to the public, such as a store.

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WASHINGTON – In the 1897 Gothic horror novel by Bram Stoker, Dracula couldn’t enter a room without being invited.

In a Supreme Court case the justices will hear on Jan. 20, gun rights advocates charge Hawaii and other states with creating “Vampire Rules,” laws requiring gun owners to get permission – verbally, in writing or through a posted sign − before carrying a concealed firearm onto private property that’s open to the public, such as a store.

The default presumption, they argue, should be that handguns are permitted on publicly open private property unless the owner explicitly bans them.

Their challenge – which the Trump administration took the unusual step of encouraging the Supreme Court to hear before waiting for the court to ask for the government’s views − won’t require the justices to delve into 19th-century literature. But it will necessitate a review of laws from the colonial and Reconstruction eras.

That’s because the Supreme Court, in a landmark 2022 decision, said gun regulations have to be consistent with the nation’s historical tradition of firearm regulation to be constitutional.

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Supreme Court expanded gun rights

The court’s 6-3 decision in New York State Rifle & Pistol Association v. Bruen also significantly expanded the Second Amendment right to bear arms outside the home.

After the court struck down New York’s law restricting who can carry a gun in public, Hawaii – and several other Democrat-led states – focused instead on where the guns could be brought.

The Trump administration urged the Supreme Court to get involved, arguing those states − Hawaii, California, Maryland, New York and New Jersey − are doing an end-run to avoid complying with the court’s 2022 ruling.

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“Because most owners do not post signs either allowing or forbidding guns – and because it is virtually impossible to go about publicly without setting foot on private property open to the public – Hawaii’s law functions as a near-total ban on public carry,” the Justice Department told the court in a filing.

Hawaii says its law, passed in 2023, upholds both the right to bear arms and a property owner’s right to keep out guns.

“The Legislature enacted this default rule in light of ample evidence that property owners in Hawai’i do not want people to carry guns onto their property without express consent,” the state’s attorneys said, in written arguments, about the state’s long tradition of restricting weapons, including before Hawaii became a state.

In 1833, for example, Hawaii’s king prohibited anyone from having a knife, sword cane or other dangerous weapon, Hawaii’s attorney general told the court.

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Gun rights cases have increased

The challenge to Hawaii’s law is not the only gun rights case the Supreme Court will hear this term.

In March, the justices will debate whether a federal law that prohibits drug users from having a gun applies to a man who was not on drugs at the time of his arrest.

The justices are also deciding whether to take up challenges to state laws banning AR-15s and high-capacity magazines, and challenges to the federal ban on convicted felons owning guns.

Lawsuits over gun laws exploded after the court ruled, in the 2022 decision, that gun rules must be grounded in historical tradition.

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Lower courts have struggled to apply that standard.

Lower courts were divided over Hawaii’s law

In the Hawaii challenge, the district court judge’s preliminary view was that the state’s law failed the test.

When Hawaii appealed, the San Francisco-based 9th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals sided with the state, ruling that its law is constitutional.

The appeals court pointed to several historical rules, particularly one from New Jersey in 1771 and another from Louisiana in 1865, both of which required a person have permission before carrying firearms onto private property. Those laws are “dead ringers” for Hawaii’s rules, the court said.

The three Maui residents and a state gun owners group challenging Hawaii’s rules argue that those statutes do not apply to the facts in this case. New Jersey’s law prevented poachers from hunting on private land closed to the public. And Louisiana’s law was aimed at keeping guns out of the hands of formerly enslaved people.

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Because Hawaii also bans guns outright from some public areas, including beaches, parks, bars and restaurants serving alcohol − restrictions which the Supreme Court is not reviewing – gun owners are effectively banned from publicly carrying guns nearly everywhere, they argue.

Hawaii counters that to bring a gun into a shop or convenience store, for example, the gun owner must only ask an employee for permission.

“To be sure, the employee might say no, but that possibility cannot render the law unconstitutional because all agree that property owners have the right to exclude guns if they wish,” the state’s attorneys said in a filing.

Gun owners say they’re being treated like ‘monsters’

Gun rights groups say Hawaii’s law is motivated not by a desire to protect private property rights but because Hawaii wants to go after gun owners.

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As in the novel “Dracula,” several gun rights groups wrote in a filing supporting the challenge, Hawaii is “treating those with carry permits as if they were monsters that must be warded off.”

In another brief, the National Association for Gun Rights said the state’s “Vampire Rule” requires store owners to take a public stand on a highly controversial issue.

“A business owner who supports the constitutional right to carry arms for self-defense faces a Hobson’s choice,” the group wrote. “He can make his views public and risk offending many of his would-be customers, or he can suppress his preference to allow people to exercise their right to carry on his property.”

‘Foundational to American identity’

Groups working to reduce gun violence worry that the conservative court may not just throw out Hawaii’s law but may do so in a way that tightens the historical tradition test it created for assessing gun laws. All of the justices except Justice Clarence Thomas − who authored the 2022 decision − clarified that standard in a 2024 decision that explained there doesn’t need to be an exact historical match to a modern-day rule to uphold that gun restriction.

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That change, if the court sticks with it, allows Hawaii to argue that its law fits within the nation’s long history of regulating private property generally, said Billy Clark, an attorney at Giffords Law Center.

“States historically have always set default rules about the use of property,” Clark said. “That’s why you can’t just assume you can bring your dog with you to a restaurant.”

Douglas Letter, the chief legal officer for the Brady gun control advocacy group, called private property rights “foundational to American identity and embedded throughout our system of government.”

“It is absolutely clear,” he said, “that the wealthy, White men who created the United States Constitution and the Bill of Rights, one of the major things that they had in mind was protecting property.”



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I visited an island just a 20-minute flight from Maui. Its empty beaches and local gems made it feel like a true paradise.

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I visited an island just a 20-minute flight from Maui. Its empty beaches and local gems made it feel like a true paradise.


  • I was born and raised on Maui, and I just visited the Hawaiian island Molokai for the first time.
  • In three days, I got to enjoy the island’s incredible views, small businesses, and quiet beaches.
  • Molokai encouraged me to slow down, appreciate nature, and spend meaningful time alone.

Growing up on the West Side of Maui, the island of Molokai was always in view, but I never made the short journey over — until now.

Molokai sits between Maui, Lanai, and Oahu, spanning 260 square miles. Many consider it to be one of least touristy and most well-preserved visitable Hawaiian islands.

It’s home to fewer than 10,000 residents. Although Lanai, for example, has a smaller population of just 3,200, it offers two world-class Four Seasons resorts, whereas Molokai has historically resisted large-scale tourism.

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There are no major resorts, chain stores, or even traffic lights on the island, making it feel like you’ve been transported back to old Hawaii.

I’ve always viewed Molokai as a beautiful and sacred place with a community protective of its land, culture, and pace — and not always eager for outsiders.

After visiting, I’m grateful to have finally experienced firsthand why the island is also lovingly known as The Friendly Isle.

Flying is the only way to get to and from Molokai.


Author Ashley Probst smiling in front of small plane

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I flew to Molokai.

Ashley Probst

A ferry once ran between my hometown of Lahaina and Molokai, but the route was discontinued in 2016, making the island even less accessible.

Today, small commuter planes are the only public means of getting to Molokai — typically a short, scenic 20-minute flight from Maui.

However, this limited access is a key factor behind why Molokai has remained the least touristy of the islands.

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My first day was spent on Molokai’s arid west side.


Aloha Maunaloa General store exterior, green building with brown steps

I visited a few shops in Maunaloa.

Ashley Probst

Known for its dry and rugged coastlines, this part of Molokai is dotted with kiawe trees, large patches of red dirt, and mostly empty beaches with views of southeast Oahu.

On my way to beach hop, I stopped in the small town of Maunaloa for refreshments at the convenience store and a visit to Big Wind Kite Factory, a mom-and-pop kite shop, and the adjacent Pineapple Gallery filled with art and souvenirs.

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My ultimate destination was Papohaku Beach, one of Hawaii’s largest white-sand beaches.


Empty beach with footprints in sand, clear blue sky

Papohaku Beach was almost empty during my entire visit.

Ashley Probst

Also known as Three Mile Beach, Papohaku Beach is one of the longest continuous beaches in the state.

I arrived around 2 p.m. on a Wednesday and stayed for over an hour.

On most islands, the afternoon is peak beach time, when shorelines are typically packed with families, sunbathers, and people playing in the waves. However, Molokai is different.

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Despite its size and beauty, Papohaku Beach was nearly empty: Only one other person walked along the water before disappearing, leaving me in peaceful seclusion.

The beach stayed incredibly peaceful throughout my visit.


Author Ashley Probst smiling on empty beach in Hawaii

I only saw one other person during my time at Papohaku Beach.

Ashley Probst

I didn’t see any lifeguards, snack stands, or shops for beach equipment rental. I wondered how visitors accustomed to more structured beach days — especially families with children — might experience it.

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Early December is a slower travel period across Hawaii, but even then, being alone on a beach this spectacular felt surreal — a perfect illustration of just how uncrowded Molokai is compared to the rest of the islands.

I visited some other beaches, but none felt as inviting as Papohaku.


Stones along shorline with waves behind them in Hawaii

Poolau Beach was also peaceful.

Ashley Probst

Poolau Beach, located just north of Papohaku, was completely empty as I sat to watch waves crash onto the rocky shoreline.

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Dixie Maru Cove — a small, sheltered beach at the very end of the West Side’s paved road — had just one other person there, but it felt surprisingly cramped after having Papohaku all to myself.

Next time, I’d return to Papohaku and spend the whole day there.

I checked into Hotel Molokai, one of the only traditional hotels on the island.


Hotel Molokai exterior

Hotel Molokai was surrounded by some lovely trees and greenery.

Ashley Probst

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Checking in took only five minutes, and my room was right around the corner from the lobby.

Walking the property, I noted the Hawaiian-style architecture, oceanfront pool, swaying hammocks, flowering trees and, sadly, the recently closed on-site bar and restaurant.

It felt comfortable and charming, but intentionally simple, with a focus on location and atmosphere rather than luxury amenities.

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To enjoy dinner and a sunset, I went to Molokai’s main town, Kaunakakai.


Town in Hawaii at sunset

Kaunakakai felt compact and quiet.

Ashley Probst

The town is small and compact with one main strip and a few short side streets lined by locally owned shops, grocery stores, and casual eateries.

Around the time I visited just before sunset, only some businesses were open (mostly markets and convenience stores) and a handful of people were walking around.

I was in awe as a pink shadow washed over the buildings, and cotton-candy clouds hugged the mountain ridges while the full moon gently rose above them.

By nightfall, the town felt calm and quiet, with very little activity after the last store closed — a stark difference from Hawaii’s more nightlife-driven destinations like Oahu or Maui.

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Live music pulled me into Paddlers Restaurant and Bar.


Plate with chicken pieces, sauce next to Kona Big Wave glass on table in evening

At Paddlers Restaurant and Bar, I got coconut shrimp and a cocktail.

Ashley Probst

With very few restaurants on the island, I was grateful to find one of the few places with live entertainment.

I ordered the coconut shrimp appetizer and a vibrantly colored cocktail.

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Both were delicious, but my total came to about $50 for two items plus tip, which felt more in line with what I’d expect at an upscale restaurant on another island.

At a casual, counter-service spot on Molokai, I assumed prices would mirror a typical plate lunch (usually under $20) and standard bar cocktails (often around $15).

But given the limited options in the area, the price could’ve been just about anything and I probably would’ve paid it.

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I ended the night with Molokai Hot Bread — a must-try local classic.


People waiting on line in well-lit hall area surrounded by dark

Molokai Hot Bread has been a staple here for decades.

Ashley Probst

Known for its late-night hours — on Molokai, that means 7 to 9 p.m. — this iconic spot is down a dimly lit alley around the corner from Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Coffee Shop.

The bread was worth the wait.


Piece of bread with guava jam on it

I get why so many love Molokai Hot Bread.

Ashley Probst

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I joined the line for this local favorite: a giant, pillowy bread loaf stuffed with fillings like my top picks of butter, mango, and guava jellies. It was delicious.

The next morning, I drove an hour from Hotel Molokai, just outside Kaunakakai, to the island’s lush east side.


View of empty road with water on one side, palm trees and hills on the other

Molokai kept impressing me with its views.

Ashley Probst

The coastal drive was stunning, with sweeping ocean views and sections without guardrails that added a sense of adventure and a reminder of how beautiful Hawaii can be when left untouched by development.

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Seeing Maui from a new angle — one that showcased the West Side where I grew up — was a memorable way to start the day.

A cultural hike through Halawa Valley — one of the oldest known Hawaiian settlements — was educational, intimate, and deeply meaningful.


Empty road surrounded by trees, greenery with waterfall in distance

Halawa Valley is on the east side of the island.

Ashley Probst

The family-run tour I booked began at 9 a.m. and featured teachings about Hawaiian history and cultural protocol, including blowing a conch shell to signal our arrival and leaving an offering at their ancestral altar.

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We were given an oral history lesson about the family, the history of Halawa Valley, and the transition from pre-kingdom times to modern tourism.

With only one other person in my tour group, the experience felt especially personal and a mirror of how tourism on Molokai remains purposefully small.

The trail through Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls was lush and historic.


Waterfall surrounded by trees, lush greenery

Moaula Falls looked incredible.

Ashley Probst

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Alongside our guide, we completed two river crossings, passed ancient residences and heiau (spiritual temples), and eventually reached Moaula Falls, a two-tiered cascade.

We spent nearly an hour taking in its beauty, and returned to the tour family’s home around 2:30 p.m.

If I could recommend only one Molokai activity, this would be it — and it’s well worth the $99 ticket.

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I spent the afternoon at nearby Halawa Beach.


Waters surroudned by palm trees, green mountains, stones

Halawa Beach is on Molokai’s eastern shore.

Ashley Probst

The quiet cove offered panoramic views back toward the valley, with clear turquoise water that shifted into deeper blues offshore.

Soft gray sand met the shoreline, turning black where the waves washed over it.

After one group left, I was the only person on the beach. It was easy to slip into Molokai’s rhythm: slow, intentional, and deeply connected to the land.

Instead of swimming, I did a spontaneous beach clean-up and collected a colorful pile of microplastics. It felt good to leave such a significant place better than I found it.

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Molokai Burger is the closest thing to fast food on the island.


Molokai Burger and fries with drink on red tray

Molokai Burger felt a bit nostalgic.

Ashley Probst

Though there is no McDonald’s on Molokai, this locally owned burger joint offers a drive-thru and familiar flavors with a homemade feel and Hawaiian style.

Inside, the red-and-white walls reminded me of In-N-Out, and Molokai imagery adorned the space — including an aerial shot of the same valley I’d hiked into just hours earlier.

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I ordered a cheeseburger, thick-cut fries, and a POG (passion-orange-guava) milkshake for $23, which I found to be fairly priced.

The dining room was quiet when I arrived, though the eatery saw a steady flow of patrons.

My burger tasted like an elevated take on a Big Mac, the fries were satisfying with a bit of extra salt, and the milkshake was deliciously tropical.

When I return, I’ll take my food to-go and enjoy it in a scenic location.

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Later, I returned to Molokai Hot Bread for a loaf to take home.


Line of people waiting at Molokai hot bread

The Molokai Hot Bread was that good.

Ashley Probst

When I asked about pre-ordering bread to pick up before my flight back to Maui, the auntie behind the counter was worried about my tight departure schedule.

She offered to make my loaf that night, refrigerate it in her own home, and bring it with her to work the next day so I could pick it up early.

It was one of the kindest things a stranger has ever done for me.

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Moments like this echoed a theme throughout my trip: Molokai’s residents consistently showed a level of warmth and generosity I’ve rarely experienced on other islands.

My final day began with a leisurely check-out and iced coffee.


Hand holding coffee in front of sugar/straw station

I was glad to get crushed ice at Hula Bean Cafe.

Ashley Probst

I returned my room key just before the 10 a.m. check-out, then headed to Hula Bean Cafe for a latte served over crushed ice — a small touch that I loved.

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I visited Kalaupapa Lookout early.


View over clear blue waters with rainbow over them

Kalaupapa Lookout took my breath away.

Ashley Probst

This scenic viewpoint in Palaau State Park overlooks the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula, once home to a community of people with leprosy who were forced into isolation before a cure was discovered.

To reach the lookout, I drove into the northern part of Molokai, where the elevation rises and the landscape shifts into cooler temperatures and peaceful forest.

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Fog can obscure the views, so I arrived early and was rewarded with clear skies and a gorgeous rainbow arching over the cliffside.

Reading the history placards brought back memories of learning about Kalaupapa in school while I looked out at the beautifully haunting scene below.

A short, steep walk led me to a sacred fertility stone.


Fetility stone in Hawaii surrounded by trees

I found some offerings at the rock.

Ashley Probst

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Legend has it that women who bring an offering and spend the night at Ka Ule O Nanahoa, also known as Phallic Rock, will return home pregnant.

The cluster of offerings at the base of the rock seemed to suggest some people wholeheartedly believe the lore.

Missed stops were a reminder of Molokai’s relaxed pace.


Macadamia nut farm closed sign in front of dirt road

I didn’t get to visit Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm.

Ashley Probst

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Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm was unexpectedly closed, and the Hoolehua Post Office crew was on their lunch break when I first arrived.

On Molokai, I found posted hours are more of a guideline than a guarantee — and tourism not dictating the rhythm of daily life is part of the island’s charm.

I returned to the small town center in Kaunakakai for lunch, shopping, and more exploring.


Molokai Museum exterior - green house

I spent about an hour browsing shops in Kaunakakai and I checked out the museum.

Ashley Probst

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Browsing local shops took less than an hour, and I left with a pareo (sarong) and a shell-shaped hair clip.

At the Molokai Museum, I learned more about the island’s history and was encouraged by locals to visit the First Friday market that evening.

Hoolehua Post Office’s Post-A-Nut activity was a highlight.


Coconut being held under

The Post-A-Nut program has been around for decades.

Ashley Probst

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Since 1991, this tiny post office has offered its Post-A-Nut program, which allows visitors to decorate and mail a coconut as a 3D postcard.

If you’re lucky, there may be free coconuts available, or you can bring your own as long as it meets agricultural requirements: no bug holes, no sprouting, and it must be fully dry.

There were only two coconuts left, so I chose my favorite, decorated it with the provided markers, and sent it off — a quirky, uniquely Molokai souvenir.

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My night ended with ice cream and one last meal.


Korean chicken on bed of greens in takeout cointainer

I got a chicken plate from Maka’s Korner.

Ashley Probst

I popped into Kamoi Snack-n-Go for a fresh scoop of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream, a Hawaii-born chain that started on Oahu.

My kid-sized cup of honeydew melon-mochi tasted exactly like a Melona bar.

For dinner, I picked up a Korean chicken plate from Maka’s Korner to eat later, and it traveled surprisingly well — as did the hot bread.

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I left Molokai feeling recharged and grateful.


Author Ashley Probst smiling with rainbow and blue waters behind her

Molokai isn’t for every type of traveler.

Ashley Probst

I thoroughly enjoyed my time on the island, but my experience made me reflect on what type of traveler should — and shouldn’t — visit.

Molokai isn’t built for families seeking kid-friendly attractions, nightlife lovers eager to stay out past 9 p.m., luxury travelers who prioritize five-star resorts and fine dining, or those who rely on a packed itinerary of structured activities.

But that’s exactly what makes it special for the right traveler.

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This island is perfect for solo travelers like myself, couples craving a remote respite, and anyone genuinely interested in learning and respecting local culture.

After three days, I felt grounded, connected, and certain I’d return someday — and maybe a few familiar faces will remember me, too.





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