Lifestyle
Jess Mori’s style philosophy? Always have “an element of discomfort”
Jess wears Hellstar shirt, Brain Dead pants, Prada shoes, Heaven by Marc Jacobs bag.
(Jennelle Fong / For the Times)
Wearing a knit football jersey and a knowing smile, Jess Mori holds a lemon out to the camera. The backyard of her Silver Lake abode overlooks a tranquil Eastside on a Friday afternoon. At this elevation, there’s nothing to hear but birds and SZA playing through the portable speaker off in the grass. Mori breaks her pose to pick another lemon, which she insists actually smells. The shoot is enveloped in a fragrance as sweetly serious as Mori herself, who immediately gets L.A.’s love for the high-low — aesthetically and geographically — even though she’s just arrived.
A Vancouver native, Mori’s recent landing in L.A. is a new beginning in a career that has seen many lives. She recounts her experiences as a fashion illustrator, designer, creative writer and copywriter. “There was this funny girl who worked at this cafe under the ad agency I worked for. Every time I came in, she’d be like, ‘Do a spin for me! Let me see your outfit!’ To the point where I’d be like, ‘I don’t work in fashion!’ But in an office space it does stand out if you wear anything remotely interesting.” Mori eventually took these encounters as a sign to quit her job and pursue her first love, moving to New York to ascend the proverbial ladder by interning and assisting stylists. Fast forward: Mori’s roster now includes Sean Paul, Salem Mitchell, Savannah Ré, Nike and Adidas, to name a few.
Like the knit jersey she wears, Mori’s thesis is all about placing the familiar in an unfamiliar context and seeing what happens. She describes her style philosophy as always having “an element of discomfort.” Otherwise, she explains, “you’re doing something super, super safe. It’s neither good nor bad. And I think that’s the worst it can be: if nobody has anything to say about it. I’ll take polar opposites versus nothing. Neutral is the worst.”
Mori is all about placing the familiar in an unfamiliar context and seeing what happens.
(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)
Alyson Zetta Williams: What is the first thing you address when styling yourself and others?
Jess Mori: When it comes to my own fashion, I like things that catch my eye as a statement piece. I like for things to have several lives in my closet. So even if it does have a standout quality, I just want to be so inspired by the piece that I can reinterpret it in multiple ways. It must be comfy, because — and probably every stylist says this — we’re always on the move. You’re never one temperature, you’re always hot, you’re always lifting things, so it’s important to be in layers.
I really believe that everybody has a certain DNA when it comes to their personality and how they dress themselves. I see everyone’s personality on a spectrum. And it’s exciting how far we can push that scale to the right or left. We always talk about resting bitch face. But it’s like, what’s your resting style? What is zero on the scale? Then, how do we dial it up or down?
AZW: You just moved to L.A. from Vancouver about a month ago. Are there any immediate or unexpected sources of inspiration that you’ve encountered since moving here?
JM: I love the idea that L.A. is this huge city, but you’re always connected to nature. There are so many plants and places to walk and hike and kind of escape to. In L.A. you already have the best backdrop for whatever you’re doing and it’s inspiring to see all the different cultures and neighborhoods. Like, this is my first time ever seeing a Thai Town or Filipinotown. I like how all these neighborhoods have their own distinct style culture. I love that you can find so many pockets of inspiration in one place.
Everybody around you is always doing something, always hustling. In order to really live this lifestyle, it helps to have other people who are doing it alongside you so that you don’t give up every time you want to. That is probably the most inspiring thing about L.A. — that you never feel like you’re doing it alone.
Jess wears Golf Wang sweater, Nike pants, Stugazi necklace, ANY7 hat, Zara shoes.
(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)
AZW: In your work, there’s a recurring juxtaposition between athletic utility and spontaneous glamour, often within the same look. Is your work more concerned with making sporty glam, or making glam into something sporty?
JM: I’ve always had this funny relationship with gender when it comes to traditional clothing. I really, really struggle with some designers who, for example, won’t let you request men’s looks for a female talent. I just don’t get it, because so much is fluid. I mean, I’m wearing a men’s collection sweater right now.
I also like to challenge the boundaries of what is high fashion, what’s luxury, what it means to be black-tie. If you tell me that something has to look elegant, does it always have to mean wearing a dress? When I’m styling, I extract all these rules about what it means to be elevated because I think that you can make anything elevated. You can make anything into a red carpet vibe.
I don’t like the term “streetwear.” But I do like taking [streetwear] and blending it with high-fashion brands and materials. I just like the clash. And that’s when I feel the happiest — when things are arguing with each other.
AZW: I’ve never heard someone say they don’t like the term “streetwear.”
JM: I was having this conversation with an Uber driver the other day, because he was telling me that he designs bomber jackets. And he was like, “Oh, I just do urban stuff, though.” And I was like, “Well, don’t describe your stuff like that, because they’ll try to put you in a box.” But what is urban? Urban is moving the culture, urban is at the forefront of so much fashion and it’s on the runway at Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton. All these people are using streetwear in the majority of their collections. It’s about removing that stigma of “Oh, it’s just urban” or “It’s just streetwear, it’s just sportswear,” because it can all live together.
Jess wears Nahmias sweater, JW Anderson pants, Adidas shoes, Vitaly necklace.
Jess wears Urban Renewal sweater, 1/OFF Paris top, Re/Done skirt, Nike shoes.
(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)
AZW: As we approach spring, how is your relationship to these concepts of utility and glam shifting?
JM: Spring is a great season to explore color. I love a uniform dress code, where you sort of have your key pieces as talking points, conversation starters. Spring is so unpredictable. You never know how many days of rain or sun you’re gonna get. I think it’s always good to dress in layers, and have your unexpected pieces but mix them with your basic uniform, which might be something like a nice blazer and well-fitted jeans.
Spring and fall, I love those two seasons the most because you have the most to play with. Summers are very limiting because you’re really restricted to whatever the lightest layer on your body could be. But spring is the best time to play and really clash, bringing unlike things together. Like pairing a cotton knit cardigan with a lighter skirt. It’s a time when juxtapositions are the way to go.
AZW: In a Jess Mori world, what would spring style look like?
JM: As you’ve gathered now from this interview, I’m very contradictory in all my choices. I just want to see people playing with color more. I just came back from New York and saw a lot of black everywhere.
L.A. has so much vintage and handmade stuff that I think if you’re trying to carve out something unique to you, there’s nothing better than going into thrift stores and finding something that you know you’ll be the only one wearing. Spring is a good time to be on the hunt for special pieces.
Right now, I really love football jerseys and knitwear. I’d love to see more granny-like knitwear go mainstream, like what Sandy Liang’s done. I love seeing people play with bows and then be wearing a utility work pant, or the juxtaposition of somebody wearing a hoodie with a miniskirt.
Jess wears Chopova Lowena hoodie, Zara skirt, Adidas shoes.
(Jennelle Fong/For the Times)
AZW: When you style yourself, where do you add those utility and/or glam elements?
JM: Shoes and jewelry are usually the places where I express glam the most. Jewelry and shoes are probably where I will spend extra.
And then utility … I’ve never owned more than probably two pairs of jeans at once. I don’t love tight-fitting pants. So once I find a good jean, I either get a size bigger and then have it tailored to the correct size, or vice versa. I find utility in jackets, which are always good layering pieces. Utility is very often found in my bags. Prada’s nylon collection is the best because you can’t stain it. I always have to have a huge bag. So I’m never too far away from a huge tote bag with an organizer inside. I have a Gucci backpack with the perfect pocket for receipts. I can’t do these tiny Polly Pocket purses people are carrying around. I found the best $30 sling bag, and I bought three of them, one in each color because they were so good for sets or just everyday life. They have, like, 42 pockets all over the place. Pockets are always a utility trick.
I love using my Korean and Japanese heritage as a backdrop. I’m naturally drawn to silhouettes like Yohji Yamamoto’s, or Sandy Liang’s, or Andersson Bell’s. They speak to what we were talking about before with fluidity, these designers are fluid with their shapes. So you’ll never feel too feminine or masculine. It’s a really nice balance of both worlds.
Alyson Zetta Williams is an L.A.-based writer whose work has appeared in i-D, NYLON, Office Magazine, Rookie Mag and more. Her substack is sorry4444.substack.com.
Lifestyle
She built a following of plus-size customers. Why is she closing her L.A. resale shop?
About two-thirds of American women are plus-size, but here in L.A., you’d never know that by looking at the shifting retail landscape. Mass market plus-size retailers like City of Industry-based Torrid are closing dozens of stores, while big-box stores including Target and Old Navy have been stealthily reducing the amount of plus-size stock they carry on shelves, choosing instead to direct shoppers to their online portals.
The few locally owned plus-size boutiques aren’t faring much better. Recently, Marcy Guevara-Prete, owner of Atwater Village’s Perfect 10+, announced her intention to close her store on April 27. All clothes and accessories will be 60% off, and she is selling some of the store’s fixtures and mannequins.
After shuttering her decade-old, hot-pink, plus-size resale shop, the Plus Bus, in Highland Park last fall, she thought paring down her store’s stock and slightly expanding its sizing could save her business. Her rent in Highland Park was up to $6,000 a month, she says, and the move to a smaller space in Atwater Village cut her expenses in half.
But almost six months into running her new space as Perfect 10+, Guevara-Prete says it’s become increasingly clear: She was fighting a losing battle. “It feels really obvious that the store has to close, but it’s so heartbreaking,” she says.
Operating the Plus Bus and Perfect 10+ was more of a labor of love for her than a money-grab, she says, noting that she never once turned a profit on either store. A reality TV producer turned boutique owner, Guevara-Prete says she kept the stores running because she felt the plus-size community needed them.
Books and accessories for sale at Perfect 10+.
Marcy Guevara-Prete had high hopes for her store Perfect 10+ in Atwater Village. She previously operated the Plus Bus store in Highland Park. It closed last fall.
Not only were her stores well-curated retail oases — they featured mostly used clothes, but also a few new pieces — for those who couldn’t find a plethora of styles that could fit them at, say, Westfield Century City, but they were also stores that fostered community through sponsoring events such as plus-friendly pool parties and drag shows. And they were known for donating outfits and styling to members of L.A.’s transgender community.
The stores became a first stop for Hollywood stylists pulling looks for celebrities like Nicole Byer and Megan Stalter and an essential destination for out-of-town plus-size travelers who often came from communities where a store like the Plus Bus didn’t exist. (Byer and Lizzo also frequently sold or donated their used clothes to the store to sell.)
The Plus Bus also got national attention, getting acknowledged in an episode of “Hacks” as well as featured in an episode of Avery Trufelman’s “Articles of Interest” podcast about clothing.
So what happened?
Starting in 2023, Guevara-Prete says, the store’s sales began to dip. “They took this nosedive, and it seemed inexplicable,” she says. “Some people related it to the election or to uncertainty coming out of COVID, when people had that extra $600 a week to spend on things like clothes, but either way, the last three years have just been a total slog.”
Guevara-Prete says the downturn caused her to lay off most of her eight employees, and ultimately, she found herself taking out a few ill-advised business loans with less-than-favorable interest rates. All of this was happening while she was also struggling to land full-time freelance work in the entertainment industry, which is experiencing its own struggles.
“I was essentially making irresponsible decisions in order to keep [the stores] going, whether for spite, for ego, for the community or for the dream,” she says. “I really just had to face the music and make a choice that was really, really hard, especially when every single day people tell me how much the Plus Bus has changed them and how wonderful and affirming it’s been. Like, I don’t think anyone is going to talk about any episode of ‘Top Chef’ I produced at my funeral, but they absolutely will talk about the Plus Bus.”
In some sense, they already are. Guevara-Prete says there’s been a big outpouring of love from fans and shoppers who have supported the stores over the years.
At Perfect 10+ on a recent weekday afternoon, people poured in one after one, both to shop the deeply discounted racks and to pay their respects to Guevara-Prete, whom everyone met with hugs and lamentations about their collective loss.
Everyone visiting left with something: a pair of leopard print boots, a dress for a brother’s upcoming wedding or a red tango-friendly gown. Guevara-Prete says the oversize outpouring of support has been present online as well. But she wishes some of those fans had been shopping at her stores on a monthly or quarterly basis in recent years rather than now bemoaning what’s been lost.
A large selection of formal, casual and professional outfits hang on displays and racks at the Perfect 10+ in Atwater Village. The store will close Sunday.
“There’s a lot of chatter online about who isn’t selling plus sizes and who doesn’t carry your size, but there isn’t nearly enough promotion of the places that do,” she says.
Although the occasional plus-size pop-up like Thick Thrift still happens in L.A. and a few local plus-size resale shops remain, including Qurves in Burbank, MuMu Mansion in Mid-City and Hannah’s Hefty Hideaway on the city’s Westside, Guevara-Prete says she’s increasingly worried about where her store’s plus-size customers will be able to shop going forward.
“Where are people going to go in a pinch when there’s no brick-and-mortar that’s consistently open?” she asks. “Stores [like the Plus Bus and Perfect 10+] not existing is scary to me, because I need them. It just makes me feel like the plus-size community is being devalued even further as a population.”
Customer Dina Ramona Silva happened upon the Plus Bus’ initial Glassell Park location after moving to L.A. in 2015. For her, Guevara-Prete’s stores weren’t just retail outlets, they were also a sort of intellectual salon or spiritual sanctuary.
“I’ve been a big girl my whole life, like I came out of the womb 10 pounds, eight ounces. There has never been a point when I’ve been skinny,” Silva says. Finding a place like the Plus Bus, where “even the people who worked there were big, bodacious [and] fashionable” felt nourishing, like just stopping in to chat with people in the store could give her a boost of confidence that she might not find anywhere else.
On a recent day, shop owner Marcy Guevara-Prete sets a sign outside her store that reads, “Entire Store 40% off, Size 10+.”
“It changed my entire conception of who I was in the community,” Silva says. “A lot of times in female friend groups, there’s one single fat girl amidst all the other slender women and allies. Having a place like the Plus Bus helped me because then, it was me and a whole bunch of other plus-size baddies. It was like, ‘Oh my god, this is so cool. We could all share clothes and they’d fit!’”
Guevara-Prete’s stores have also been important spaces for L.A.’s trans, queer and gender-fluid communities. Eureka O’Hara, a drag performer who’s appeared on “RuPaul’s Drag Race” and HBO’s “We’re Here,” says she found the Plus Bus about six years ago when she started to explore her gender identity, ultimately transitioning from presenting as nonbinary to being transfemme.
“The Plus Bus was so important to the queer and gender-fluid community because it gave us a place to feel comfortable trying clothes on,” O’Hara says. “Oftentimes I would show up, and they would have clothes already pulled for me. Also, I’m coming up on a year sober, but when I last relapsed, I came back to L.A. after having a relapse in Vegas. I ended up putting all my stuff in storage and went straight into a rehabilitation clinic and then sober living, so I didn’t have any of my belongings. Marcy made sure I had clothes to wear so that I could still present myself publicly on social media as a trans woman talking about my process of recovery, and she did it at no cost.”
O’Hara says she knows other trans women whose wardrobes are almost entirely from the Plus Bus, saying that if they couldn’t afford the clothes they wanted, the store would often give them “extreme discounts, if not free clothing.”
Shop owner Marcy Guevara-Prete, left, thanks customer Katie Pyne for coming in for one last visit.
Guevara-Prete says that while her stores’ closing has been “more bitter than sweet,” she’s still proud of the work she’s done with the Plus Bus and Perfect 10+.
“I never in a million years thought I would own a boutique or have the kind of healing that’s come from the Plus Bus community,” she says. “What I’ve experienced and learned about body positivity, body neutrality, fat liberation, fat acceptance and how that’s been translated from my clothes to my actual soul … There’s nothing like it. And I’d like to think that I’ve also healed people through this project and that people have made friendships and memories they’ll have for lifetimes at my events.”
Lifestyle
Street Style Look of the Week: Airy Beachy Clothes
“She’s like a female Willy Wonka,” Sakief Baron, 36, said about Kendra Austin, 32, after she explained that her personal style had a playful and cartoonish spirit.
Dressed in loose, oversize layers in blue and neutral shades, the couple were walking on the Upper East Side of Manhattan when I noticed them on a Saturday in April. There was a symmetry to their ensembles, so it wasn’t too surprising when she noted that he had influenced her fashion sense.
Before they met, she said, she was “less sure” about her wardrobe choices. “I also have lost 100 pounds in the time we’ve been together,” she added, which she said had helped her to recalibrate her relationship with clothes.
His style has been influenced by hip-hop culture, basketball players like Allen Iverson and his mother’s Finnish background. “I just take all these pieces and then it kind of comes together,” he said.
Both described themselves as multidisciplinary artists; he also has a job at a youth center, mentoring children. “I want to make sure that I look like someone they want to aspire to be every time they see me,” he said.
Lifestyle
What are Angelenos giving away in one Buy Nothing group? All this treasured stuff
In my L.A. Buy Nothing group, I started noticing how some objects, given for free from neighbor to neighbor, carry emotional weight. An item was more than it appeared. It was a piece of personal history, perhaps one with generational memories.
From one person’s hands to another’s, objects find new life through the free gift economy on Facebook or the Buy Nothing app. Buy Nothing Project, a public benefit corporation, reports having 14 million members across more than 50 countries who give away 2.6 million items a month. There are more than 100 groups in Los Angeles alone.
Buy Nothing reduces waste by keeping items out of landfills. It also builds community. When our lives are increasingly online, Buy Nothing encourages us to get out of our cars and make connections with neighbors, even if the interaction is no more than a wave when picking something up left by a doorstep. Researchers have found that even small social interactions can foster a sense of belonging.
Still, Buy Nothing has its challenges. For years, some have complained that the groups shouldn’t be limited to neighborhoods, but rather have more open borders. Last year, many longtime members complained about the project enforcing its trademark, leading Facebook to shut down unregistered groups even if they were serving people under economic strain. Critics saw the tattling as a shift from mutual aid toward control and branding. For its part, Buy Nothing says its decisions are based on building community, trust and safety.
Despite those disagreements, Buy Nothing offers a platform for special connections. As much as there are jokes about people offering half-eaten cake, many have passed along treasured items. Buy Nothing items may feel too valuable for the trash or too personal for Goodwill. The interaction between giver and receiver becomes just as meaningful as the object itself.
I set out to document these quiet exchanges in my Buy Nothing group, drawn to the question of why people choose to pass their belongings from one neighbor to another.
Tiny builders, big exchange
Lidia Butcher gives a toolbox and worktable her two sons used to Chelsea Ward for her 17-month-old son.
“We’ve had the toolbox and worktable for the last 10 years, it’s been very special. When I told my youngest son we were going to give it away, he was a little sad. He said he was still playing with it, but then I explained that it’s been sitting untouched for a year and that if we gave it to someone else, maybe someone else would be happy about it. So he felt joy about giving it to another child who would want to play with it. I have this little emotional feeling letting it go, but at the same time, it’s a good feeling. Like a new beginning.”
— Lidia Butcher, 35, joined the group several years ago when someone told her a person in the group once asked for a cup of sugar.
“We’re getting a worktable. Benji is now old enough to be interested in playing with tools. I’m going to move my drafting table out of his room. His bedroom is my office. So that will go into storage or the Buy Nothing group and the worktable will go in its place. We live in an apartment, and as he’s growing, his needs change but our space doesn’t. Buy Nothing is really helpful to be able to cycle out of stuff.”
— Chelsea Ward, 38, has found the Buy Nothing group extremely helpful since becoming a mom.
Something borrowed
Abby Rodriguez lends Sophie Janinet a veil for her wedding.
“Sophie had asked for a wedding veil on our Buy Nothing group and I’m lending it to her because I wanted it to have a second life. I hate the idea that precious things just sit there and never get touched. My wedding day was one of the best days of my life. At one point the power went out and now we have this amazing picture with my husband and I and everyone using their phone to light up the dance floor.”
— Abby Rodriguez, 40, discovered Buy Nothing when she moved to her northeast L.A. neighborhood in 2020.
“I moved to Los Angeles from France four years ago. The day I joined Buy Nothing was the first time I felt connected to the community. It played a huge role in my adapting to life here. I’m receiving a veil because I want my wedding to look and feel like my values. I thrifted my dress, I chose a local seamstress to alter the dress but when I tried it on, I felt something was missing. I wanted a veil but I didn’t want to buy new because I didn’t want to add anything to the landfill. So I posted a request for the veil on Buy Nothing.”
— Sophie Janinet, 37, is recreating the low-waste, slower-paced values she once lived by in France through her local Buy Nothing community.
1. Abby Rodriguez, left, holds her wedding veil that she is lending Sophie Janinet, right, for her upcoming wedding. 2. Michele Sawers, left stands with Beth Penn, right, while giving her a decorative owl.
A pigeon-spooking owl gets a second life
Michele Sawers gives Beth Penn a decorative owl.
“Coming from a place of luck, now I have plenty to give. The owl has been with me for 26 years. I bought the owl soon after I bought this house. The owl was purchased because I had a pigeon problem, they would camp out under my eves and I would have bird poop everywhere. The owl must have worked because they’re gone and they haven’t come back.”
— Michele Sawers, 58, uses Buy Nothing regularly to connect with her community and support her low-consumption values.
“There are things I don’t want to own. So borrowing those things on Buy Nothing is really nice. There is a person who I borrowed their cooler twice and their ladder twice so I feel like they are my neighbor even though they are not [right next door]. We get these birds that poop on the deck and the recommendation online was to get a fake owl. When it was posted on Buy Nothing, I thought, ‘I have to have that owl!’ It’s going to have a good home with me on the deck with some cats, a dog and some kids.”
— Beth Penn, 47, once helped build her local Buy Nothing group and now experiences it from the other side, as a member.
Stuffed toys find a new purpose
Magaly Leyva, left, stands with Tatiana Lonny, right, with the stuffed toys and play balls she is gifting her.
(Dania Maxwell/For The Times)
Magaly Leyva gives stuffed toys and plastic play balls to Tatiana Lonny.
“My mother-in-law gave the dolls and plastic play balls to my daughter, but she has so much. My daughter is not going to play with them with the same intent that another kid would, because she’s really little. I’d rather another kid use these things.”
— Magaly Leyva, 35, joined Buy Nothing nearly four years ago to find clothes for her nephew.
“I’m taking these new items to a township called Langa in South Africa. I know the kids there will be so happy. They have so little there. I’m doing this all by myself, I’m just collecting a GoFundMe for the suitcase fee at the airport.”
— Tatiana Lonny, 51, began using Buy Nothing in hopes of finding resources to support the animals she rescues.
A second helping
Laura Cherkas gives Aurora Sanchez a cast iron pan.
“Buy Nothing gives me the freedom to let go of things because I know that they will stay in the community and the neighborhood. I’m giving a couple of cast iron items that my husband and I got when we were on a cast iron kick, probably during COVID. We determined that we don’t actually use these particular pans and they were just making our drawers heavy. So we decided to let someone else get some use out of them.
“I hate throwing things away. I want to see things have another life. Sometimes I take things to a donation center, but I like the personal connection with Buy Nothing and that you know that there is someone who definitely wants your item.”
— Laura Cherkas, 40, has built connections with other moms through Buy Nothing and values it as a way to cycle toys in and out for her child.
Laura Cherkas, left, holds the pan she is gifting Aurora Sanchez, right, through Buy Nothing.
(Dania Maxwell/For The Times)
“I wanted a cast iron pan because I cook a lot of grilled meat. I’m excited to try this style of cooking out and it will help me when I cook for only one or two people. I got lucky because I was chosen to receive it.”
— Aurora Sanchez, 54, has spent the past two years engaging with Buy Nothing, finding in it a sense of neighborly support that makes her feel valued while strengthening her connection to the community.
Next player up
Joe Zeni, 70, is using his local Buy Nothing group on Facebook to give away a basketball hoop he used with his son when he was little.
(Dania Maxwell/For The Times)
Joe Zeni first offered a basketball hoop on Buy Nothing in 2023, where it remains unclaimed.
“I’m giving away a Huffy basketball freestanding hoop because it’s just taking up space. We used to play horse and shoot baskets together. My son is now 35, he doesn’t live here anymore.”
— Joe Zeni, 70, uses Buy Nothing often to give items away, believing many of the things he no longer needs still have purpose.
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