The bread service was a definite highlight, featuring a laminated brioche with miso butter. It took pastry chef Armar Nasir weeks to perfect the techniques that resulted in a coil of distinct, shatteringly flaky layers of bread, all dusted with salt crystals. 

Dessert came in the form of buckwheat tea and an array of delicate little mignardises.

Consider yourself warned: If you’re truly hungry, don’t count on this petite menu to fill you up. However, you always have the option to add courses, including uni toast ($48), the restaurant’s most Instagram-famous dish, and an entree of wagyu beef ($78). 

Lee says the idea stemmed in part from wanting to make sure the restaurant’s dining room felt full and energetic, even on weeknights. “We love fine dining, but we don’t love quiet dining rooms,” he says. So they came up with a way to bring in new diners and give regulars (and yes, Saison does have regulars) a less time-consuming option. It has clearly been popular. Reservations for the six-seat bar are available on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights, and they tend to go fast. 

“If you would have asked me a year ago if you could sit at the bar and have bites, I would have politely said no,” Greene says.